UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: a dense loner on August 19, 2006, 10:41:26 pm
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have heard rumours about a new wall that may be opening in sheffield come winter. rumours have it that it could be one of the biggest dedicated bouldering facilities in the world. time for the masses of sheffield to get strong boys and girls
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in the woodseats road area my birdie told me.... :oops:
i heard its been a bit of a cloak and dagger, meetings in open public places type of thing...
i may of heard wrong though....
either way looking forward to it opening as i live very close by.
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is this the ben moon wall rumoured to be in the pipeline?
Also on the subject of walls, theres currently an Eadon Lockwood And Riddle (http://www.elr.co.uk/) sign up on the foundry gates for a potential property/land development. :wave:
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I wish I'd have had the forsight to buy an old warehouse in a shitty part of town...that would become prime property development land 15 years down the line...
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Hindsight be a wonderful thing Bubba.
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is this the ben moon wall rumoured to be in the pipeline?
i heard it was someone with dreads, but not ben moon... when he was young :-[
i'm only going what i've heard so forgive me if i'm incorrect
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Also on the subject of walls, theres currently an Eadon Lockwood And Riddle (http://www.elr.co.uk/) sign up on the foundry gates for a potential property/land development. :wave:
Must be for what was Outside mate. The new bouldering wall is in but not quite finished, so you wouldnt go to the trouble of installing such a beast then to sell the building! This new wall is excellent news. Perhaps I will only have to breath my own chalk dust in future (pesky non-members!)
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the only thing that could be worse was non-members that used your chalk :spank:
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God forbid such a foul and stinking beast should ever rear its head. Worse still, a non-member that borrows chalk, burns you off and insists on playing its own music - shudder. :furious:
Lest we even consider a non-member that wont participate in the bonding rituals and 'take it like a man'...
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You'd think if you were opening a new wall in a few months you'd want to advertise, rather than spreading rumours.... or maybe it's all a cunning plan, a bit like viral advertising.... :-\
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You'd think if you were opening a new wall in a few months you'd want to advertise, rather than spreading rumours.... :-\
Just to keep the rumour mill ticking over...
I've heard the walls are made of gold and evryone who visits gets a free blowie...
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Woodseats Road eh ? - not sure where there is enough room for a decent Woody on Woodseats Road.
Maybe its round the back of Woodseats WMC ?
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:goodidea: Maybe it is the Woodseats Working Men's Club :alky:
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Woodseats Road eh ? - not sure where there is enough room for a decent Woody on Woodseats Road.
Maybe its round the back of Woodseats WMC ?
apart from the massive disused factory.....the company i used to work for have moved there operation into one of the units
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Woodseats Road eh ? - not sure where there is enough room for a decent Woody on Woodseats Road.
Maybe its round the back of Woodseats WMC ?
You're just looking up the wrong end of the road Dolly... like the man said.... just to one side.
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I heard there's going to be a 25 rung campus board :jaw:
Hope they have ice packs for those snapped tendons ;)
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apart from the massive disused factory.....
:-\ elementry my dear watson
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what dark forces are driving the realisation of the super cellar :shrug:
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Woodseats Road eh ? - not sure where there is enough room for a decent Woody on Woodseats Road.
Maybe its round the back of Woodseats WMC ?
You're just looking up the wrong end of the road Dolly... like the man said.... just to one side.
OK fair cop :-[
Apart from the massive disused factory......
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There's more talk about this on UKclimbing:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=197914
although, nothing said that hasn't been said here. 'Tis shrouded in secrecy by the sounds of it.
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I heard that there is a mile high bachar ladder with a woody soo steep its actually inverted and the wearing of weight belts is mandatory
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I've heard the reception staff warm up on 8c's, have eyes as black as night and a dark longing for unlicensed crayfish.
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I have it from a reliable source (who obviously can't be named in these matters of national importance) that the project is 95% certain to happen AND it will be enormous.
No more info on the possibility of Orcs as reception staff.
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you trying to suggest that our sources are not reliable? I do hope not :P
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I have it from a reliable source (who obviously can't be named in these matters of national importance) that the project is 95% certain to happen AND it will be enormous.
No more info on the possibility of Orcs as reception staff.
If it's due to open this winter then I assume they will have already got the site and started work on it, otherwise they haven't got much time.
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Well i've heard if you fall off any of the problems you become pregnant regardless of sex.
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In order to prevent any further gossiping, mis-information, chinese whispers, etc, etc, here is what is happening. A new bouldering centre is lined up for Sheffield. It is a long way down the planning road, but until the project is signed and sealed there will be no official press release. As Dolly said, we are 95% of the way there, and will aim to make an announcement mid September, but don't particularly want to have our hand forced permaturely by the rumour mill!
All I will tell you is the following. We are looking to build the biggest and best bouldering centre the world has ever seen. The wall will been owned and run by myself and Sam Whittaker. We are both psyched out of our minds for this project, and will do our utmost to bring you the best bouldering wall you will ever want to climb in. More news when we're ready....... Cheers
Percy Bishton
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Good luck with the project Percy, sounds good :)
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Are the people right about the location btw, or is that secret? Something just down the road would be sweet.
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Massive factory? Sounds about right to me! And when we say massive, we mean massive.
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sounds good percy. lets hope the entry prices are reasonable. I'm a hard man to prise out of my cellar in the winter.
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I'll prise you from your cellar Dave. I'm about to buy the Worlds biggest boulderer magnet with which to attract you.
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Will such a device actively repel route climbers?
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Will such a device actively repel route climbers?
Pah!
Sounds exciting though Percy. Will they really have Orcs on reception?
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Will such a device actively repel route climbers?
Massive factory? Sounds about right to me! And when we say massive, we mean massive.
Dont be crazy dobbin, think of the traversing potential....
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i hope ther is a minimum weight restriction and a pair of fat calipers
don't need the eating disorder types from sports crags coming in and vomiting in the change rooms before trying a 60 move link up problem!!!!
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I'm about to buy the Worlds biggest boulderer magnet
I'm pretty sure that sharma would never drink Magnet.
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is it true that five thousand fourth dynasty egyptians have been resurrected in order to move the fifty ton blocks of limestone, granite and grit necessary to construct the world's largest bouldering venue?
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I hear the crash mats will be made of marshmallow, it will be climate controlled to extract chalk dust and the air temperature and humidity will be optimised for perfect conditions, and the air will be meadow scented. Miniature cleaning robots will be deployed to keep all holds clean at all times.
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..but will have their bios set at an ego buffing 6A+ so as not to embarrass anyone
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Here's the website for the wall and all the info you could possibly want!
http://www.climbingworks.com/index.htm
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Link doesn't seem to work I'm afraid - anyone else ?
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Works on mine
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Try using a different internet browser??
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Doesn't work for me.
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works for me.
very much looking forward to this.
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As someone has pointed out on RT, if the site has only just been registered, it may take a while to filter through to all the various different DNS servers that people are routed through, so some people may be able to view it and others not...... I can't unfortunately.
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Question:
What is the reasoning / expectations behind this bouldering centre given that Sheffield has two excellent and one decent bouldering walls in the city, 3 more good bouldering walls within an hours drive, and the Peak District on the doorstep??
I respect the people involved, particularly Percy for his Edge route setting, but I'm wondering how this is going to work and be successful given the choices already available??
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I imagine the idea is to poach a large portion of the customers from the other three, by offering a vastly superior wall.
Lets face it the Matrix is not an amazing wall, smells, is very sweaty and the prob setting is poor, the only plus point being the price. The Edge is too expensive for what you get, it gets too crowded, you often feel like you are going to land on people/ be landed on and lets face it the wall is very average, only worth going to because of Percy's excellent setting (which will soon be gone). The Foundry is a good bouldering wall, but not to all tastes, is on the wrong side of town and doesn't get re-set often enough.
The Works boys will know all this and also know that none of the other walls has space to expand in order to match the size and quality of what they will be offering.
I also think people will travel a bit further to get to somewhere really good.
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planetfear has a news item on it:
http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=5890 (http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=5890)
and two piccies.
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that looks pretty good, but will there be some amenable slabs for my one armed, e.b. shod bumbling?
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Question:
What is the reasoning / expectations behind this bouldering centre given that Sheffield has two excellent and one decent bouldering walls in the city, 3 more good bouldering walls within an hours drive, and the Peak District on the doorstep??
I respect the people involved, particularly Percy for his Edge route setting, but I'm wondering how this is going to work and be successful given the choices already available??
I live a 5 min walk from the matrix, and a five min drive to the matrix or foundry, but I for one would go if its as good as it looks. Its only another 5 mins up the road form the edge. Particularly if they have a year card at a reasonable price.
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Lets face it the Matrix is not an amazing wall, smells, is very sweaty and the prob setting is poor, the only plus point being the price. The Edge is too expensive for what you get, it gets too crowded, you often feel like you are going to land on people/ be landed on and lets face it the wall is very average, only worth going to because of Percy's excellent setting (which will soon be gone). The Foundry is a good bouldering wall, but not to all tastes, is on the wrong side of town and doesn't get re-set often enough.
In fairness the quality of the problem set in the matrix over the last year has increased by about 400%, and with it all being all bleaustone its got superb holds. i hate to admit it but steve and scouse have set some good uns. I went for my once-every-three-year visit to the foundry yesterday and the problems there weren't tangiably better than the matrix, although there are mor harder problems. I do like the matrix, but its not really a wall to get strong as, its a wall to go to with the strength you alreayd have and have a fun evening.
I havent been to the Edge in years now simply because it too cramped, and I object to paying full wack to use only 10% of the facilities. I used to like it when i could go in the daytime when it was empty.
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To be fair the foundry has a poor set of problems on the wave at the moment probably due to all the effort being directed at the new board. The matrix has got slightly better for problems but as for the holds: bleaustone holds with that heat just make it horrendous.
I live right smack bang next to the foundry and i'd definately travel across town if its a worthwile venue. Since the demise of the woodie there has been a bit of a void in terms of somewhere to train, neither the edge or the foundry had anything vaguely similar, the new wall looks like its going to offer volume climbing/circuits as well as training which no other wall in sheffield has the facility to do.
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Is there coing to be a stupidly large roof section? I love roof sections...
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Question:
What is the reasoning / expectations behind this bouldering centre given that Sheffield has two excellent and one decent bouldering walls in the city, 3 more good bouldering walls within an hours drive, and the Peak District on the doorstep??
Damn, nobdoy told us there was any other walls in Sheffield. Thanks for the warning, we had better cancel the whole thing. Anyone want to buy 350 sheets of ply, do you a good price.
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The Climbing Works won't be like the Foundry, Edge, Matrix, Leeds wall, Manchester wall, Mile End, Ratho, or any other wall anybodies been too, because it will concentrate on providing only quality bouldering on a very large scale - something that has not been done in the UK yet. We reckon Sheffield is the ideal place for this type of wall as its accessible from all over the place without having to drive for much more than an hour. Sheffield is also full of boulderers who would like to climb for a fair price in a state of the art climbing wall that has been designed and built by climbers who have a huge ammount of expertise in modern climbing walls. Chuck into the equation friendly staff, and a nice atmosphere condusive to having a good time and improving your climbing rather than stagnating on infrequently changed, 'samey' problems and you might be onto a winner. And then again, you might not....
However, its a gamble we have decided to take, and we're all psyched out of our minds to make it work. I have become bored over the last 2 or 3 years of people saying to me that someone, someday will open a mega bouldering wall in Sheffield, so we've decided between the three of us to do it ourselves. It might work, it might not, but if we can't do it in the building we've got, then its a total non-starter! Back to my t-nutting now......only another 23,000 to go.....
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Chuck into the equation friendly staff, and a nice atmosphere
make sure you don't employ dense then ;)
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Lets face it the Matrix is not an amazing wall, smells, is very sweaty and the prob setting is poor, the only plus point being the price. The Edge is too expensive for what you get, it gets too crowded, you often feel like you are going to land on people/ be landed on and lets face it the wall is very average, only worth going to because of Percy's excellent setting (which will soon be gone). The Foundry is a good bouldering wall, but not to all tastes, is on the wrong side of town and doesn't get re-set often enough.
In fairness the quality of the problem set in the matrix over the last year has increased by about 400%, and with it all being all bleaustone its got superb holds. i hate to admit it but steve and scouse have set some good uns. I went for my once-every-three-year visit to the foundry yesterday and the problems there weren't tangiably better than the matrix, although there are mor harder problems. I do like the matrix, but its not really a wall to get strong as, its a wall to go to with the strength you alreayd have and have a fun evening.
I havent been to the Edge in years now simply because it too cramped, and I object to paying full wack to use only 10% of the facilities. I used to like it when i could go in the daytime when it was empty.
I'd just like to point out that I haven't been to the Matrix since Steve and Scouse have been setting, so my perhaps over-hastey appraisal may well be out of date.
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I'm not a great fan of plastic but I'd pay a premium to get into any new wall that could guarantee me plenty of bouldering space away from groups.
(The Beacon in N. Wales is a 100% classic example of the experience being ruined (time after time) by children in oversized boots/helmets & harnesses/figure 8's climbing above you around you & moving under you when you're climbing. No-one wants to fall & break a kid. Nevermind the leaky roof after how many years?!)
It's all bouldering but you will be taking groups I read.
Solution: No fucking jugs. Harsh, but I payed to get in.
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The group problem is easily sorted. You set your wall up in an old factory that is so big that you can't see from one end to the other. Then you put your kids boulders at one end (covered in jugs, etc) and your training board at the other end. Put a large section of wall in between and the problem is sorted. I trust Mr Houdini that we will see you at the training end, and not a 'secteur initiation' so there shouldn't be a problem (and the kids won't be able to hear everybody swearing when they fall off their projects)!
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Nice. I got no sense/didn't see the scale of the plan from the drawings. It's commercial suicide to ignore group geld, but I'm amazed more kids don't get squished in walls.
You'll see me in the training end but only if you make the world hardest/thinnest slab. One slab, one problem. Such an obvious thing but you never see it.
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10,050 square feet of floor area - I think we should be able to accomodate most folks and angles!
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heard a good joke yesterday...
Q. What did Phil (edge owner) give Percy as a leaving present?
A. His customers!
genius. If you need anyone to set some slab problems you know who to call...
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If you need anyone to set some slab problems you know who to call...
Nik at work?
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GraemeA: Thanks for that exceptionally helpful reply. I presume you'll be employed as customer services or perhaps the friendly reception staff??
JB: Q. What did Phil (edge owner) give Percy as a leaving present?
A. His customers!
ROFL!! :lol:
Quite possibly his staff too, if there are any vacancies at the new bouldering magnopolis.
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Bonjoy & Percy: Thanks for your replies.
I do agree with your points about the Sheffield walls, BJ. I rate the Edge for the problems but also the "relevant" angles. But as you say it gets crowded. I also rate the Foundry, more for the simplicity and strength aspects to the problems, also it's a bit more open - and the new bit looks great. But, it's even more expensive. The Matrix, I loathe it utterly. Annoyingly humid sweat-fest with absolutely filthy holds, too many feature walls, shit holds when they aren't the bleaustone ones on, and in the past "average" routesetting. Yes it's cheap but you get what you pay for or a lot less in this case. Maybe as Dave says the routesetting has improved but the other issues were the worst.
Nevertheless all these places are very popular it seems. Although maybe one could say "well that's because they are all that's available and with a better venue people would flock there".
Percy, I appreciate your points, and I'm sure it will be good. Will it be enough? As you say it's a gamble. I hope it will. I will certainly be visiting it regularly.
One thing though: Please don't put lots of bloody featured boards on!!
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I'm resisting my natural urge to perform some sort of cost / benefit calculation or return on investment thang here, but I'm curious about the key factor here - any ideas on price of admission Percy?
Reading the above, the main gripe with the Foundry / Edge seems to be price compared to what the punters are getting - assuming you're going to be undercutting on admission fees as well as providing an amazing venue?
Also, what's the crack with public liability if you're a bouldering-only venue, is it cheaper? That's gotta be a help to your business case if nothing else.
All of these will be moot for me though as I'm a Mile End regular, though I may have to swing by this new mecca if when I'm next in Sheff...
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Still can't access the website though..... :(
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TTT - I'd be happy to pay the usual wall fee, or a little more if the wall is as good as this promises to be.
Fiend - Featured walls can be good, but usually aren't. The wave at the foundry is a good example of getting it right. The usual problem with featured walls is that there are too many holds, this limits the variability of probs that can be set and introduces too much scope for rests positions and faggotry. For instance the wall right of the jamming crack at the Edge has a knee bar which takes all the weight off your arms, therefore any problem going up that bit allowing features for feet has a mid-height rest, very limiting. The only way round this being to specify the problem doesn't use features, which negates the (costly) feature element of that bit of wall. On the other hand the wave has just enough poor feature footholds (which are generally too poor to use as handholds anyway, therefore reducing the level of contrivance i.e holds which are allowed for feet but not hands) to allow different sequences to be used according to size/strength/technique, in the same way that random poor footholds do out on the crag. So the features add depth to the problems, reduce the number of bolt-ons needed per prob, but are so minimalist that you don't need to specify that they or used or not used for any given problem. If the balance is right you can also get extra mileage out of the problem by doing it with feature footholds only.
I think you need a to have put a good deal of thought into the design of a feature wall compared to a panel and make damn sure the builders stick to it. Most feature walls look as if the basic shape has been dictated by the designer but the holds have been left to the imagination of the builders, who are probably whacked out of their mind-tanks on resin fumes. Features-wise good = small poor footers especially around the bottom of the wall, perfect slopers (these are often done better as features than bolt ons), the odd super-hard stand alone line/project which is suitably hard/tiny holded that it does not dominate that bit of wall; bad = pockets, ledges, jugs, good pinchs (poor ones ok), cracks (fun once but get in the way after that), flakes, skulls (mile end!) or other novelty things, kneebars (much as it pains me to say it).
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....bad = pockets, ledges, jugs, good pinchs (poor ones ok), cracks (fun once but get in the way after that), flakes, skulls (mile end!)...
Aye, with the exception of the slabs, see Mile End's numerous deserted features panels for a good list of "features to be avoided"!
Take your point here BJ - Wirkworth's guilty of the same sin, too many features so problems are / were (last time I was there anyway) usually difficult to make *that* hard.
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I think large volumes on simple panels are the best as you can make all the features you want, knee bars, cracks, aretes, small ledgegs for mantles, but you have the option to take them off when you reset. With resin it's a permenant feature, which can get boring because with, for example, a crack, it's the same crack everytime you go. But with volumes every crack that's set is different (and I'm very experienced at avoiding every one they set at BoulderUK).
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the probs are good at the matrix. its just too hot to appreciate them. likewise the bleaustone holds. quite looking forward to using them properly on the new foundry board and hopefully percy et al's wall later this winter.
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Wow, it would seem that Cofe, Dave and Scouse know the guys at Bleaustone :-\
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Fiend - Featured walls can be good, but usually aren't. The wave at the foundry is a good example of getting it right.
Features shmeatures. Like you say, they usually don't work. Even at the foundry, they are a bit irritating - most of the problems are clearly a lot easier for the regulars whose feet automatically locate those unobvious little dimples. Most frustrating. I'd rather lose energy trying a move than getting pumped searching for a foothold.
What I'd love to see is something more along the lines of BoulderUK - by far the best bouldering wall I've ever been to. The lack of features mean the problems are more varied than anywhere else. And the ease with which the volumes can be shifted around means routesetters can be really inventive.
True its nothing like outdoors climbing (and why does it have to be?), but its lots of fun, which is what indoors should be about, and it gets you strong. Would be great to see this sort of problem on the circuits section.
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Ah at last the website's working!
Have to say though that is one of the shitest website i have ever seen! From a business wanting to attract corporate and international interest you'll have to provide a better image than that.
With regards to location it's still a bit of a trek to get to for an evenings session from Mancland. I can see there's a train line that runs pretty close by which might make for a slightly less traumatic journey than by car. Can anyone tell me what the nearest train station is?
One thing that hacks me off with commercial walls is the lack of angles and variety created because of it. If anyones been to the ghetto wall in an old warehouse in Geneva you'll know what i'm talking about! I'd love to see some form of systems board there too and i definately agree with the above that featured walls suck.
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Whats a good website look like then http://www.eastlandcompounding.com/
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Wow, it would seem that Cofe, Dave and Scouse know the guys at Bleaustone :-\
i don't know what you mean. i don't know the steve at www.bleaustone.com (http://www.bleaustone.com)
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Wow, it would seem that Cofe, Dave and Scouse know the guys at Bleaustone :-\
i don't know what you mean. i don't know the steve at www.bleaustone.com (http://www.bleaustone.com)
;D :bow:
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With regards to location it's still a bit of a trek to get to for an evenings session from Mancland. I can see there's a train line that runs pretty close by which might make for a slightly less traumatic journey than by car. Can anyone tell me what the nearest train station is?
Train line is the one that goes to the Peak and onto Manc. Nearest stations are Dore and the central one. Lots of buses go up and down Abbeydale Road and lots go up Woodseats Rd. You come on public transport and you will get a free cuppa
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You come on public transport and you will get a free cuppa
Now there's a good idea! Promoting some green-ness...
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You come on public transport and you will get a free cuppa
Hmmm, maybe you WOULD be good in the custom service bit after all!
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And also if you cycle, walk or come in a full car (Ferrari F2006's excluded - Schumacher does routes so he won't be coming anyway)
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Horseback? :shrug:
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Horseback? :shrug:
Cuppa tea and Percy will tell you that you are a wad. But only for people from Bury ;D
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I wouldn't let Graeme look after your horse whilst your climbing..... :shag:
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Oh, and on the subject of features - there won't be any. Just ply, holds and volumes a la BoulderUK, but on a much, much bigger scale. Think about 8 times the size of BUK and you're in the right area....
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I wouldn't let Graeme look after your horse whilst your climbing..... :shag:
Hmmm, I'd have thought he'd prefer Ram's bottom...
But only for people from Bury ;D
Hmmm, I'd have thought he'd prefer Ramsbottom... ;)
Seriously though, how much horizontal is there going to be approx? Or can you not say? Ver' hush hush?
I like boulderuk's simple boards, allowing for inventive volume-work. Gives some nice shapes and some interesting rockovers sometimes...
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Hush,hush,I'm afraid. Wait and see. But there will be a lot of everything. Oh yes. :o
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Oh, and on the subject of features - there won't be any. Just ply, holds and volumes a la BoulderUK, but on a much, much bigger scale. Think about 8 times the size of BUK and you're in the right area....
thats the spirit. BUK is prob one of my fav indoor venues. not been for ages... not been outside for ages.... damn... need to get out more
bloody attic conversion
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Hush,hush,I'm afraid. Wait and see. But there will be a lot of everything. Oh yes. :o
Oooh, it's just like Christmas... What did you get us? Can we open it now? Awww not fair, What will Percy Christmas deliver unto us?
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Oh, and on the subject of features - there won't be any. Just ply, holds and volumes
Pimp!
You do nasty things with volumes...
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Whats a good website look like then http://www.eastlandcompounding.com/
Looks like an amazing project - just a shame its on the wrong side of the planet. WRT to the website tho Graham, it seriously sucks. PM me if you want some better ideas. I'll see what I can put together for you
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Whats a good website look like then http://www.eastlandcompounding.com/
Looks like an amazing project - just a shame its on the wrong side of the planet. WRT to the website tho Graham, it seriously sucks. PM me if you want some better ideas. I'll see what I can put together for you
For the usual fee, plus expenses (trans-hemispheral flights).
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the location is PERFECT to suck in those with wealth to finance the project to allow for building of ultra specific training methods you strong boys use.....
why?
coz it's easy to get to from the "30 to 40s" semi detached belt of n'edge, woodseats, abbeydale and millhouses. Attractions are: "ooohhh might get strong again, there is a CRECHE, and an area for the kids"
awesome ideas,
percy - you've started me climbing again mate - cos i can now train again and not get divorced...... thats where the baseline income in sheffield will be.
i need a season ticket for 2 adults and 3 kids mate,
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Get in Fat doc
See you down there mate
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Seconded the creche is a top idea for us new fathers!
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Oh, and on the subject of features - there won't be any. Just ply, holds and volumes a la BoulderUK, but on a much, much bigger scale. Think about 8 times the size of BUK and you're in the right area....
Music to my ears!
Do you take requests? Can we have a problem like this please?
http://www.freakclimbing.com/pip/Competitions/Freaky%20Rock%20Master%2006.mov
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How many rungs is the campus board going to have? I seem to remember reading that the French National Climbing centre one went up to 15 or something... :o
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Graeme A - BMC competition supremo + climbing wall owner = conflict of interest? Wonder where all future BBC's will be held? I'm not complaining - I live in Sheffield.
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Graeme A - BMC competition supremo + climbing wall owner = conflict of interest? Wonder where all future BBC's will be held? I'm not complaining - I live in Sheffield.
To be fair even if he wasn't involved, it would still be one of the BBC setters walls, that has enough space and variation for all the male and female qualifiers that won't overlap, and it's half way across the country(ish), and it looks like it has lots of space for spectators. So I suspect that it would have had a good chance of being used anyway. Good luck to everyone involved, I'm sure it'll be a great wall.
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arent some of the figures such as turnovers made available to other walls as well? I understand this may be the case...
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Re the website.
Graeme, Percy and Sam approached me 2 days before I went to Cornwall for a week, and asked for something to be built quickly. The site will undergo a re-design at some stage in the near future.
There is an unfortunate DNS issue with the server which should have been cleared up whilst I was away. It was not and I'm on to tech support to get this cleared up. Apologies to anybody who has tried to access it and been greeted by the UKReg splash screen.
A couple of people helpfully pointed out that the site is shit. A little illumination would be useful here. If you have any thoughts on what should or should not be included please feel free to post here or email me (matt@heason.net).
Cheers,
MattH
p.s. I just posted a few pics taken yesterday to whet your appetites...
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had problems accessing the site
can get it now
yeah it's not really mega detailed but if the place is still being built....
wish us soft southerners could have such a facility outside London
:please:
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There's a few new photos in the picture section of the website - www.climbingworks.com just to give folks the flavour of what we are doing. Please note that the snaps only give a 'flavour' and only show little bits. We don't want to spoil the suprise for all you folks, now do we! All will be revealed come mid November. We will update the pictures a little more regularly from now on too, as work progresses.
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Looking good!
(http://www.climbingworks.com/Images/IMG_5986.jpg)
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It does look amazing. Huge - and steep. We'll all either develop Euro Wad arms or get injured. Good work boys.
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Oh.
For some reason when I first saw that I thought they were two rather unimpressive pictures posted one above the other :-[
Doh.
On reflection, it looks class - and is that some hideous v-groove roof-chimney slot-thing I see??!
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where do you anchor the top ropes? ;)
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No, its not a hideous groove chimney thing. We're building the worlds best bouldering wall, remember?!?!
Don't forget the nice thick mat that will go under the wall, reducing the height to a more ammenable 4.5metres so no need for top-ropes. Plus Graeme is quite short..... Remeber that the photo shows what might be 20 square metres of climbing surface - there is the other 1030 square metres that you ain't seen yet to worry about too! :bounce:
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No, its not a hideous groove chimney thing.
Looks more like a hideous offwidth thing to me... :-\
Still with that amount of wall to go at I should be safe for a few months. :)
bluebrad
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Potentially this is going to be the greatest leap forward in terms of UK (maybe europe?) wall standards and I'm probably going to move back to Sheffield in January/February to make the most of it. Really good job to those involved.
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itll be nice not having to care about weather forecast before booking ryanair!!!!
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No, its not a hideous groove chimney thing.
Percy given your track record and the passionate malice with which you set volume problems, you can forgive any of us who don't believe a word about the lack of hideous groove chimney things ;D
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We noticed this afternoon that we had inadvertantly created a 14 inch wide 40 degree overhanging off-width in the middle of the competition wall. Now obviously we were going to fill this in, but then Mr Pickles and myself thought maybe we might leave it....... who knows!
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all looks good. how much is it going to cost me to get in Percy? This is the million $ question.
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Pricing will be as follows.....
£4.50 Off-peak concessions
£5.50 Off-peak standard rate
£5.50 Peak concessions
£6.50 Peak standard
Off peak finishes at 4pm - and weekends are peak time all day
£2.00 one off registration fee on your first visit
Monthly, 3 monthly and Annual membership deals also avaliable.
Its not way cheaper than anybody else, but it will be way better than anybody else. I firmly believe in value for money (being a tight arse), and you won't find a better place to train for your coin.
Free wi-fi for customers, plus poncey italian coffee and comfy sofas.
Check the website at the start of October for a limited offer of cheap annual memberships - only 50 memberships on offer at a bargain rate...............could be worthwhile for all you Sheffield based boulderers.
And as ever, all this is absolutely correct....probably....
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I'm probably going to move back to Sheffield in January/February to make the most of it.
Amazing! Could this be the first time a climber has moved to Sheffield for the INDOOR climbing?? On the strength of this hopefully the grit will be quiet this winter, if everyone follows Bungle off to the wall whenever conditions are good...
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Err its a good job you put the disclaimer at the end cos you've obviously been sniffing too much of Taz's wood (filler).
Cos what you meant to add was that we will be doing 12 for the price of 10 tickets.
And cheap rate 'Hour of Power' sessions for those lucky enough to be within striking distance for those all important lunch time sessions.
And of course our beard-scratchingly fantastic long term offer of anyone turning up on their bike (self propelled, wheeled means of transport just in case anyone asks), by public transport, on foot or by full car share will get a free cuppa* (* conditions apply ;D)
"Free wi-fi for customers, plus poncey italian coffee and comfy sofas." Doesn't of course mean free anything, you have to pay for the coffee, you can sit on the sofa's for free but they are ours so you can't have them. And even the free wi-fi will have a price - the risk that our WAN/LAN/SH/IT consultant (think he's called Niddob or something) will probably have yer 'My Documents/My Photos/Secret Shots' folder up on here in a jiffy. Or at least after he's finished with the jiffy.
And as ever, all this is absolutely correct....probably. Except for Dobbin's name of course. Oh b*ollocks I've given the game away.
Respect to the Jed. 8)
Plus of course free physio for all those called St. Ewart Licklefair who injure themsleves whilst on-sight.
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Amazing! Could this be the first time a climber has moved to Sheffield for the INDOOR climbing?? On the strength of this hopefully the grit will be quiet this winter, if everyone follows Bungle off to the wall whenever conditions are good...
Err, probably not, some geezer moved to Sheffield back in the early 90's to climb indoors. Can't remember his name but the nickname was 'Aussie Somethingorother'. He came all the way to train at The Foundry and on peoples woodies. Sad but true (but also good from our point of view).
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anyone turning up on their bike (self propelled, wheeled means of transport just in case anyone asks), by public transport, on foot or by full car share will get a free cuppa* (* conditions apply ;D)
So if I park round the corner, jog on the spot for a couple of minutes then come in gasping, do I still get a cuppa?
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I'm probably going to move back to Sheffield in January/February to make the most of it.
Amazing! Could this be the first time a climber has moved to Sheffield for the INDOOR climbing?? On the strength of this hopefully the grit will be quiet this winter, if everyone follows Bungle off to the wall whenever conditions are good...
I'm sure Stanage will remain quiet for your ongoing seige.
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The first time a climber has moved to Sheff to climb indoors? have you heard of "Frank Spolarick", He came from canada, Trained at the School, went out once and got a photo of himself nearly hanging the hold on hurricane, then applyed for sponsorship and got it from clark at cordless. so this will be the second time... I went to the School once.
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Jasper Sharpe probably qualified too, he and Smythe never really left their cellar.
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any concessions if i bring my bus pass down?
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At least Jasper can give good beta on the southern sand stone.
There is a new wall being built in Sheffield huh, please include tropical plants, sauna, spa, massage and phisio, Cocktail bar with topless waitress service
(These double up as spotters). and then, only then will i start to climb indoors.
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GraemeA,
i was thinking of the bike "concession", the MTB craze that has gripped many a climber in recent years has resulted in many of us owning rather expensive steeds......
any chance of some "next to the doors / windows well lit bike stands" for us to lock up the bikes on please?
the traffic in woodseats is so damn slow that I'm sure many of us that live up that way will be using bikes to get to and from the place, making as much of an effort as possible to stop theavin b*trds knickin the bikes would be most appreciated!
ta.
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the traffic in woodseats is so damn slow that I'm sure many of us that live up that way will be using bikes to get to and from the place, making as much of an effort as possible to stop theavin b*trds knickin the bikes would be most appreciated!
Seconded. Not that my bike is worth that much, but it would be good to feel certain it was safe. Friend of mine had her bike nicked from outside the Edge recently. It's just not what you need when you come out of the wall completely knackered and just want to go home and have some food. Another friend of mine caught someone with bolt clippers attacking her bike lock. He tried to convince her it was his bike! Then he tried to convince her it was his job to remove bikes! Scurrilous rogue.
Lasers. That's what we need. Or sharks. Or a frickin combination of the two.
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Pricing will be as follows.....
£4.50 Off-peak concessions
£5.50 Off-peak standard rate
£5.50 Peak concessions
£6.50 Peak standard
Off peak finishes at 4pm - and weekends are peak time all day
£2.00 one off registration fee on your first visit
Those prices don't look too bad. Nice one.
(I must admint i've never really understood the justification behind the "registration fee" that a lot of walls charge, however.)
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Registration charge is to cover the admin - pays for the registration form, membership card, laminating said card and somebody to enter the details onto our computer system. The other £1.75 we spend on jazz mags and cheap red wine. This is the industry standard.
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Oh, and the bike thing. We will provide a great big steel bar outside our reception window to lock your steads to. We will also provide a load of beefy U-locks and keys so you don't need to cart a heavy lock down to the wall. Give us your house keys and we'll lend you the use of a lock for the evening. :goodidea:
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The other £1.75 we spend on jazz mags
you're only human.
(http://www.jazzprofessional.com/images/KennyBakerCover.jpg)
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Can we consider the wall staff as Jazz mavericks perhaps? as genre spanners? one certainly hopes so.
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your house keys and we'll lend you the use of a lock for the evening. :goodidea:
And while you are pulling down, a bunch of well trained neddies will clear your house out, as we have your address from the registration you just paid for ;D
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Registration charge is to cover the admin - pays for the registration form, membership card, laminating said card and somebody to enter the details onto our computer system. The other £1.75 we spend on jazz mags and cheap red wine. This is the industry standard.
As long as the jazz mags are available for public perusal at the wall that's okay...
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As long as the jazz mags are available for public perusal at the wall that's okay...
Only if you turn up dressed like this;
(http://www.bbc.co.uk/comedy/fastshow/characters/images/louis_balfour2.jpg)
Nice, really nice.
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btw,
i come from italy, does it mean that ill always pay the "off peak"rate?
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Off peak rate will apply to all climbers who have travelled from Italy and have brought us some nice italian salami (and pasta for Westie - he's a veggie type). And if you come from Italy by bike we'll give you 2 free cups of tea! Can't say fairer than that.
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thanks for the big Ulock... not the same type you can open with a bic biro I hope!!
errrr.......
on the prices thing, dont get me wrong , £6.50 for a session as an adult for basically unlimited fun is cooool...... but - if i bring 3 kids that get bored after 1 hr i'm spending a fortune here....... season tickets perhaps???? esp. for the little power monsters in times to come???
go on.....!!
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Jeez Doc, it's a fucking bouldering wall, not Easy Tigers ::) ;D
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fair go....
but £20 or more for a session is a bit harsh when the place has kids friendly areas and a creche facility as part of the selling points.... anything to keep me out of f88king easy tigers!!
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Oi Codfat
You subscribed for updates. You might just get one tomorrow. Know what I'm saying.
:shag: & :kiss2:
Graeme
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:spank:
i dont do codfat
it's an endangered species
my update will be on my home email, the delights of the work i.t. infrastructure never ceases to amaze me
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can you put a big thick lead wall around the unit to stop mobile phone signal?
so my missus can't call and ask how much longer i'll be.
this could be the last place of male solidarity... presuming the only women allowed in are to make any meals or drinks for us fellas....
do i hear a second for this motion????
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Nah, either you forgot the ;), or you need the lobotomy rather than the bottle....
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can you put a big thick lead wall around the unit to stop mobile phone signal?
so my missus can't call and ask how much longer i'll be.
this could be the last place of male solidarity... presuming the only women allowed in are to make any meals or drinks for us fellas....
do i hear a second for this motion????
eeerrrr nice one oldfella perhaps you would be more happy here
(http://www.musicnonstop.co.uk/store/images/darkages.jpg)
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can you put a big thick lead wall around the unit to stop mobile phone signal?
so my missus can't call and ask how much longer i'll be.
this could be the last place of male solidarity... presuming the only women allowed in are to make any meals or drinks for us fellas....
do i hear a second for this motion????
you could always use the off button and tell her there is no signal
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Special membership deal now on www.climbingworks.com for the first 50 lucky punters to get a cheque to us. I got a cheque from everybody who saw the wall yesterday, and the places are going fast.
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Good luck with the wall I'm sure you don't need it, some of the ideas like free brew and bike locks are very good ideas.
Can I also say thanks for introducing me to Sketchup it looks like a very useful tool. I was having a play round with it yesterday and looking at your model and couldn't work out where the picture of Graham standing under the roof was on the model, could you enlighten me?
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fatboyflimfast will have yr cheque to you from me to you on monday first thing.....
hope it's in time!! :thumbsup: :goodidea:
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I think this discounted membership is a good thing but it is still quite pricey. I'm sure it will be worth it, but it's still a £200 outlay. I was kind of hoping for something a bit cheaper, more in line with school fees. I know that's super cheap but a man can hope...
I'll have to think about it before sending my cheque. I'm sure i'll miss out on this offer because everyone is so psyched to send you their money.
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How dare anybody even compare this project with the school - grotty little dump that it is! Its about time you guys stopped pisssing about and went to a proper training venue. The Climbing Works will be worth £300 a year for unlimited use - unlike most other walls who provide an annual deal but don't deliver the goods. The opening offer is a bargain, but I know its a big chunk of cash to stump up in a oner. Think of it as an investment. It will be worth it. If you don't believe me, give us a bell and arrange a visit.......... :o
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codfat on slim fast log in:
WHAT THE F*CK
£200 for an unlimited gym of the best calibre in the WORLD
try another sport mate......... virgin gyms etc....... LOADS more (40 a month basic unless i'm miss taken)
try DH MTB, costs me 100 a MONTH to get the bloody bike moving
for gods sake, the concept of climbing for a cheap sport still runs true here - this is not a huge price for what you get.......... think about £s per minute..........
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this could be the last place of male solidarity... presuming the only women allowed in are to make any meals or drinks for us fellas....
do i hear a second for this motion????
Not from me oldfella.
Obi = No. 5
Mrs Obi = No. 6 and first female member to sign up. (Give it a few years and we'll be dining out on that fact)
Personally I'm well psyched for a wall that caters for all at the same time. Isn't elitest yet has grade for everyone from the youngest beginner to the oldest wad. There's a huge buzz down there already and its not even open yet.
Can't wait. Tis gonna be a good winter.
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can you put a big thick lead wall around the unit to stop mobile phone signal?
so my missus can't call and ask how much longer i'll be.
this could be the last place of male solidarity... presuming the only women allowed in are to make any meals or drinks for us fellas....
do i hear a second for this motion????
jeez, hasn't anybody got a sense of humour??? well i thought it was after a bottle of bubbly...
How dare anybody even compare this project with the school - grotty little dump that it is! Its about time you guys stopped pisssing about and went to a proper training venue. :o
you can go to the best venue in the world or the worst, but if you don't train hard, its irrevelent where you go . as they say, you can take a horse to water, but you can't make it drink.
but good luck boys, this opening will be the biggest event in sheffield
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Still thinking Percy, but just a small question. As someone pointed out above, this will be a universal institution, catering for all abilities, from punter to pro. In my experience, this mix has nearly always led to frustration. Perhaps I can comment on my own (prick like) behaviour. When I've been at any normal wall, if it's busy, you get people climbing next to you, climbing accross you without realising they were doing, climbing under you without realising, etc etc. This is just a waste of time. From the pics I've seen and what people have told me, your new establishment will be HUGE. So, already this has gone a long way to solving the problem, but what about the next problem. Say you have a specific training section (which I believe you do), what is there in place to stop a punter going on that section? I don't want to sound elitisist, but inevitably will... I don't want punters getting in my way. There, I said it. In exactly the same way as I wouldn't want to get in the way of beasts. If i was at a training facility with Fred Nicole, Jacky Godoffe etc, I would know better than to go over to where they were climbing and try a measly v9. I would just amuse myself somewhere else. Or I would make sure I wasn't getting in their way. So what are you going to do to stop punters getting in the way? Will the training part be set too difficult for punters? maybe only problems above a certain grade like v7/8??? Am I simply imagining a problem? Is this wall so big that this just won't happen???
also, do you have any idea what opening times will be like?
oh, and will you be endorsing font grades or v grades? ;)
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In my experience, this mix has nearly always led to frustration.
??? In my experience, when ever I've been climbing around some of the best people in the world. who climb way harder than me, most of them have been nothing but encouraging. In the same way that I try to be encouraging to people who don't climb as hard as me. It's all about climbing.
I doubt you will ever have your training seriously disrupted, I really think there will be enough room for all. Anyway, by the time you've had one attempt at the comp wall, I reckon you'll be glad of the chance to use 'punters in the way' as a good excuse for a sit-down ;)
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The Climbing Works will have a training board. This part is already built. It overhangs a mere 30 degrees and is 4.6 metres in vertical height, so gives a massive climbing surface (it is 8 metres wide). It will be covered in a selection of very nice holds (stored away be myself and others over the last 15 years) and will cater only for those who want to train hard - at a level of Font 7a and upwards. There will be no big holds on this board as there is another square kilometer of climbing surface with 350 other problems on from font 1 to font 8a to warm up on. All the holds will be bolted and screwed on so there will be no spinning holds. I hope this meets with your approval Uncle. Check the Climbing Works blog for a picture of Longy stood under this board. And then send me your money.
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All sounds terrific, looking forward to seeing it and climbing on it. Couple of questions...
What will the opening hours be?
Is it going to be cool and pleasant or sweaty and vile in the summer?
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That's quite a biggy I reckon but it being a big space should make it easier to keep it cool, think about sunderland wall that got a huge amount of air inside with a high ceiling so that helps it stay colder. is there going to be some sort of air conditioning jive happening?
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I wrote "summer" but this is pertinent year round. It's the humidity that sends me running from the Matrix whenever I've been. I fondly remember early days at the Foundry when it was so cold you used to wonder if you'd be able to warm up.
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Percy is brill at builing walls and setting problems, he is however not so good with figures :P
We don't have a square kilometre of walls as that would be 1,000,000 sqm of climbing surface, which would be the equivalent of something like the equivalent of 6-10 Stanages all in one nice little building tucked off Woodseats rode. Longy is ace but he ain't no Timelord.
The training wall is about 4m climbing height and is 7.32m long (ie 3 8ft boards).
Get back to your gardening Percy!!
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Longy is ace but he ain't no Timelord.
:thumbsup: gotta be quote of the project so far...
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WHAT THE F*CK
£200 for an unlimited gym of the best calibre in the WORLD
try another sport mate......... virgin gyms etc....... LOADS more (40 a month basic unless i'm miss taken)
Virgin is even more than that now but I don't think you can do a direct comparison. Virgin includes swimming pool/saunas/free personal trainers/unlimited free classes from Pilates to Ju-Jitsu.
But that said, I don't think £200 is a lot for a year's worth of training on what promises to be an extremely good venue. If I had £200 spare then I'd be signing up myself, but I don't so I can't :boohoo:
The climbing works team are obviously putting a lot of graft/cash/time/risk into this - they need to make this venture pay and earn some money from it, so you can't expect it to cost fuck all.
Anyway - one question, will there be a monthly payment/DD style payment facility?
try DH MTB, costs me 100 a MONTH to get the bloody bike moving
you know what I could say here, but I won't after my little bump in France :)
(edit: punctuation)
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Yep, there will be a DD option for the 'normal' full membership once we open.
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Some new pics on the website. Blog has been taken off temporarily whilst we find a free blog provider that isn't completely shite!
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Looking good!
(http://www.climbingworks.com/Images/IMG_6009.JPG)
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looks amazing! 200 a year sounds very reasonable to me as well considering the quality of the place and prices elsewhere, £300 a year for Awesome Walls in Liverpool and the new one in Manchester, and a direct debit option as well!
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doesn't sound cheap if you're used to paying less than half that for something damn good.
If it's alright Percy, I might pop down tomorrow. It depends if I can make it accross in time.
Are you painting it that shade of green so you can use it as a greenscreen during live broadcasting of bouldering events? What will you put onto it?
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ahh is the foundry much cheaper?
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a slab????
for indoor bouldering???
quality..... :bounce:
(http://www.climbingworks.com/Images/IMG_6012.JPG)
(or is it waiting to be tipped) :whistle:
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Photo is tilted, not sure if it's vertical or less than.
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One thing I didn't ask the other day Percy, which I meant to - is there going to be a "woody" board ? - ie not too high, wooden holds etc. The place looks awesome as it is, or will be, but one of the great things about the Office and Edge Woody was the attraction of 4 moves on just wood.
I'm sure its great for pure power as well
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another question about the board style section: What do you intend to do holds wise and numbering/naming/grid for problems? I loved the setup the woodie had before its paint job however after that I thought that the holds (a lot being entreprise) although being nice for outdoors in kind of climbing, werent the best to train on? depending a lot on holding them correctly etc.
Will there be any wooden holds? and im not on about those metolius varnished ones (whose bright idea where those?)
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doesn't sound cheap if you're used to paying less than half that for something damn good.
As our little home from home is not a publically available facility its not an option to most, to whom the cheapest year round is probably £250 at the Foundry. Plus, you have to like chalk dust and small holds at our place, and its hardly user friendly! (all the more reason I love it).
Do you know, when the other BM saw Percy (et al)'s venture, he suggested we close the board! I punished him most severely I can tell you. The scars have only just healed.
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doesn't sound cheap if you're used to paying less than half that for something damn good.
As our little home from home is not a publically available facility its not an option to most, to whom the cheapest year round is probably £250 at the Foundry. Plus, you have to like chalk dust and small holds at our place, and its hardly user friendly! (all the more reason I love it).
Do you know, when the other BM saw Percy (et al)'s venture, he suggested we close the board! I punished him most severely I can tell you. The scars have only just healed.
ha ha... gone are those scary winters nights, all alone in the school. Lightning crashing down, flickering light bulbs, and dreams of making it to C51. I think this new board has the potential to supersede the school, but until it does I'll keep on going.
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At least you dont have to put the key back in the hole of doom any more.
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At least you dont have to put the key back in the hole of doom any more.
:o errr... I just used to put it in the hiding place, not in my "hole of doom". That's why no one could find it after you had been up there!
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just been to visit this and was thoroughly impressed! Competition wall looks very good and the 30 deg board (which will be having fixed holds) is massive. The double sided crazily high campus board sounded fun too!
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Pricing will be as follows.....
£4.50 Off-peak concessions
£5.50 Off-peak standard rate
£5.50 Peak concessions
£6.50 Peak standard
Off peak finishes at 4pm - and weekends are peak time all day
£2.00 one off registration fee on your first visit
Those prices don't look too bad. Nice one.
(I must admint i've never really understood the justification behind the "registration fee" that a lot of walls charge, however.)
I would have said that is very expensive. Theres no way I can afford £6.50 3 times a week. Thats the reason I havent been to the foundry / edge for several years. I was hoping this wall would be cheaper.
Bugger.
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But if you're going 3 times a week that makes the yearly rate about 2 pound a go, surely?
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why would it possibly be cheaper? what kind of brain would build the next generation of wall and then charge less for it? a bankrupt one obviously
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:agree:
If you want cheap, go to the Healey/Vine boulder, or buy a bar from Argos.
I for one would rather live 5mins from the best bouldering wall in the world at the same price as an average wall, rather than five minutes from an average wall at a cheap price. You get what you pay for. These boys are taking a huge personal financial risk on this venture and they've got to be sure to get enough money back to keep the place afloat. I think they pitching the price correctly.
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I would have said that is very expensive. Theres no way I can afford £6.50 3 times a week. Thats the reason I havent been to the foundry / edge for several years.
It's not very expensive, it's not even expensive, it's pretty cheap. It's a business not a charity and they need to cover the costs just to keep it running. £6.50 what's that, 3 drinks in a pub, 30 fags, sky for 5 days, taxi ride for a couple of miles after a night out, or several hours in a quality bouldering wall. It's just over 1 hours work at minimum wage for an adult.
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I'd say if you think its expensive go and have a look to at what your getting, you pay more for entrance to the edge bouldering room which is completely inconsequential compared to the scale of this facility!
BONJOY - you got membership?
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I would do, but with going away for six months next year it doesn't work out cost effective
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to all the guys setting up this wall. i admire your courage, as some climbers i have met are the most tight fisted, frugal people i've come across. GENERALIZING...
but they always want stuff with a discount or free.. they would rather sleep in font in cold wet cave and then climb poorly as a result than spend money on a nice dry room with a bed and climb well.
so best of luck to you all,
i think your prices are spot on. and i'll be giving you my money in the future.
for those of you who are whinging about the cost or wanting discounts, these guys are trying to put food on the table, roof over their heads and secure a future.
what chance have they got if people are wanting hand outs and 'value for money'.
for those complaining, there's always the peak, it didn't stop whillans, brown et al...
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Thanks for the support, chaps. Our rationale for embarking on this project is that 'someone' is going to do it, and it might as well be us lot. We have a reasonable ammount of expertise, and were basically stupid enough to put our money where our mouths are. So now we're fully committed - if it works (and it bloody well should do) then we'll have realised our dream of making the worlds best bouldering wall. If it doesn't then it won't be for want of trying. Many thanks to everybody who has helped out, or has offered to lend a hand - its much appreciated.
If you want to use the best bouldering wall in the world, it will cost you money. Not a lot of money, mind, but enough to pay for the bloody thing to be there in the first place. On planet earth in 2006 this corresponds to £6.50 per visit at peak times. It may go up in the future, it may stay the same, but anybody who wants to climb at The Climbing Works has to pay it. Sam, Graeme and I know so many climbers between us that if we all let our mates in for free, or for a discount, we'd be bust in weeks. So everybody pays, either in money or services rendered (currently one years free use is 100 8x4 sheets of ply drilled, t-nutted and 2 screws put in the back of every t-nut - 60 t-nuts per board before you ask). This takes even the most simple minded workaholic 4 to 5 days so we ain't giving it away!
So don't ask for a discount. Our real friends and supporters wouldn't even dream of it. If you don't want to pay for good indoor climbing then nobody's making you. However, we will make sure that the Works is the best way to spend £6.50 so don't panic!
I'm off to the pub now. :beer2:
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Just my pennys worth, I think the entrance fees suggested are more than fair if the wall lives up to it's high expectations- which I am certain it will Obviously climbers been climbers would still haggle if it where £2.
Let's not forget in London, the unlucky bastards are charged nearly a tenner a pop for walls which arguably offer less and also the substantial outlay a project like this requires.
If you're not happy paying the £6.50, cough up £200 notes, go 5 days a week, 52 weeks a year and bobs your uncle, its cost less than a nugget a time.
I wish the guys all the best and have utmost respect for them getting off their arses and trying to make a difference. No excuses now Keith, one day you may be as ripped as Doyle.
Good luck.
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No excuses now Keith, one day you may be as ripped as Doyle.
In his dreams!
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As someone said to me yesterday: The physio's based near this new wall must be rubbing their hands with glee.
Release the Crips, Smithers!
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The physio's based near this new wall must be rubbing their hands with glee.
I'm saying nowt :whistle:
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Did I not also speculate that Mr Alderson and his crew would have negotiated some sort of financially attractive onsite franchise deal for a crack team of high class physios. It would save all the cripples having to walk down the road to get their shoulders mended.
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I'm saying nowt. :whistle:
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Well nowt except for saying that 2 skips have recently gone missing in Sheffield, 1 mini skip and 1 full size skip. Wonder what the Doc (Longy) has been up to with them?
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were they full or empty ?
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Well last I saw the mini skip had a Taz in it, we were trying to get it sealed up before it escaped but you know how quick they move.
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There ain't that many walls in the worlds who are looking for a skip sponsor. Certainly has that 'Oh my God, what have they done?!?' effect when you walk in now, Graeme! Complete madness.
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Our blog is back working again, after we had a load of hassle with the tossers who hosted the first attempt. I have popped a nice pair of pictures on there to whet your appetites. I have seen the future, and its shaped like a skip!
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.. they would rather sleep in font in cold wet cave
Which cold wet cave did you have in mind? Is it any good?
The thing I notice with climbing walls is that they're always rammed. So not only can they can get away with charging what they do at the moment - they could get away with charging more -and moreover the climbers who weren't priced out would appreciate it as the wall would be less busy. I don't know what price provides you with an optimum profit (I'm sure some economist has written a book about it) but I'm always surprised they don't charge even more, at least at peak times (e.g. winter tuesday and thursday evenings after dark), when like in Bristol they regularly have to turn people away when they reach the fire limit or something (they usually still let boulderers in though, even though it can get so busy that the line between being spotted and crowd surfing is crossed). And bearing in mind what I implied about my knowledge of economics, and that although the walls and mags like to whine on about how we should be supporting them in summer as it's a hard time (poor them), wouldn't it make sense to lower your prices in summer to attract more customers? Apart form booking way in advance, isn't that what Ryan Air and Easy Jet do?
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Well Perc. Looks like i'm gonna slowly line your pocket with the dosh you lined mine with in my shop. Swings and roundabouts!
Oh! and my penny'sworth: You don't get much change from £30 at the Ski Village or castleford fridge to stand in a queue for half the time you paid for and the other half riding a poor copy of a mountain.
day lift pass in the alps: £20 ish Hundreds of square miles of terrain
day pass in any dryslope or fridge: £30 ish and a few hundred metres of terrain
You do the math
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I don't think theres any logic in comparing the price of gym membership or a session on a dry ski slope to that of a session indoor climbing. Its like comparing pears with pomegranates.
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Clearly pears are better, I see no room for dispute there. Next!
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i think the cofe would take exception to that. he's not loving the sandy apples.
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He can bawk and bawl all he likes but it's pears all the way daddio
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i'll make a brief foray from the darkness to say:
"don't get me started on pears"
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You slaaaaaaaaaag!
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Cheers, you big Carnie Geordie type thing. Hope the illness has subsided - I was informed last week that you'd lost your voice....... result!
£30 to stand in a shit fridge (Castleford ski slope - not a refrigerator for faeces, mind!) and only £6.50 top whack for the best indoor bouldering on planet earth? Seems crazy don't it, but I don't need to keep my building at a constant minus 4 degrees all day. In fact, until the last of the windows are installed, it might naturally be that temperature most of the winter (only kidding everybody!)
We will see if the low price stays or is increased in the future. I want the wall to be accessible for everybody -hence the very reasonable pricing policy. It is, and I can't stress this enough, however, an absolute bargain. You should see what we just built :jaw: Sitting in one of the central 'chambers' with the boys tonight, we realised just that bit was bigger and better than the Edges bouldering wall and its only a tenth of the whole place! Keep checking our webshite thing for more bad pics that do no justice to the place.
PS: There's now less than 10 of the cheap membership deals left, so get down the Works with your cheques now to see how you should spend your cash. Nobody who has entered so far has left without coughing up (more or less!)
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I think the price isn't bad. Compare it to Ratho, who tried to get us to hand over £12 (6 to register and 6 to use the wall even if it was a one off visit), then informed us they were closing early (8pm) (it was 2nd Jan). It seems to be clsed again too, I would be gutted if I had paid up to register, only for it to be shut down.
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Outrageously, Ratho is closed for Refurbishment (! you just opened!), I also heard that the good bit of the bouldering surface (the boards under the cafe) is to be turned into offices. What a rubbish refurbishment. Off to alien rock2 for anyone who is bothered then...
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Outrageously, Ratho is closed for Refurbishment (! you just opened!), I also heard that the good bit of the bouldering surface (the boards under the cafe) is to be turned into offices. What a rubbish refurbishment. Off to alien rock2 for anyone who is bothered then...
yup, cheeck this; http://www.edinburghleisure.co.uk/news_article.asp?ArticleID=15 (http://www.edinburghleisure.co.uk/news_article.asp?ArticleID=15)
On the plus side, work is well under way on this http://www.transition-extreme.com/location/wall_design.htm (http://www.transition-extreme.com/location/wall_design.htm) to open in Spring in Aberdeen. Hope it is better managed than the RGU wall. Managemenet seems promising so far, they are apparently making a section of the changing rooms accessible to surfers using the beach.
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Oh dear! £200 looks like absolutely amazing value to me-a fucking great deal and no mistake! I just paid £340 upfront for membership of UCR in Bristol which has shit facilities, unprofessionally run, dirty and with a very amateur feel to the place. Plus no monthly DD or even quarterly options. I can only assume its due to the lack of competition that allows such a lax attitude to the way in which its run. The route/problem setting is the real redeaming factor though-top class.
Climbing is such a cheap sport compared to literally all others-I still don't get this cheapskate climbers mentality.
Facilities cost money-the more that something costs the better it should be, and from the pics it looks to be superb.
Well done and good luck to Percy and the boys. :thumbsup:
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One of the most important threads in the history of UKB and the fuckwit who started it off can't even punctuate the title of it properly. Unbelieveagable.
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Indeed.
I was curious as to how much a 3 month membership might be. I am one of those unfortunate fellows who missed the boat, and subsequently uses the school (with members I should add) very occasionally. Much to the chagrin of (other) members who turn up whilst I'm there. I think for the winter months when the weather is that fuckin' diabolical that even a session on Banana Finger, god bless its soul, proves unjustifiable, I would be keen as mustard to use such a facility. say combien?
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Bloody non-members. ;)
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Someone earlier in the thread reckoned they had spotted an off width on the comp wall. I hope they feel suitably idiotic for even making such a suggestion. An off width on a comp bouldering wall. I ask you :whistle:
However while I have not been looking the boys have been naughty. I apologise most humbly for this abberation.
Check the latest pics on the website.
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You guys should link to your site in your signature ;)
For the record, it's http://www.climbingworks.com/index.htm
(http://www.climbingworks.com/Images/IMG_6079.JPG)
A wooden offwidth - you sick fucks :lol:
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Work your <i>weakness</i>! Jamming cracks indoors regularly make me upset, they're great.
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(http://www.climbingworks.com/Images/the%20shot.JPG)
:o
Futuristic!
Though what exactly is he reaching for?
The future...? ;)
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He's not reaching for anything is he. But his shadow is reaching for something. Christ we try and be arty. I don't know.
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Christ we try and be arty. I don't know.
I'm not the messiah.
But I did respond with a suitably abstract interpretation. Now you have to go and build something radical in response. That's how great art works. A dialogue of shape and form; a melding of the mental and the elemental...
Just don't do this:
(http://www.artistsineastlondon.org/image_bank/essay/house.jpg)
He's not reaching for anything is he. But his shadow is reaching for something.
Remember - It is from the shadows that all men reach...
...if only because there's a girl nearby who insists on switching off the main light and using useless little lamps because they make the room feel cosier...
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:o Me thinks I'lll be giving that offwidth a miss, I've no ambition to do right eliminate, and thats for a reason!
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Its more Ramshaw Crack than RE
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I just posted some new pics from yesterday including the beginnings of the world's biggest campus board!
www.climbingworks.com
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OMFG,
it just gets bigger and bigger, the size of it......... brings tears of joy to my eyes.
i'm all over come (too much cheap coffee, sorry)
whan's the £202 member night planned for?? i'll need to take the day off work the day after
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I just posted some new pics from yesterday including the beginnings of the world's biggest campus board!
www.climbingworks.com
amazing.
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idoh!
someone's built the stairs upside down
(http://www.climbingworks.com/Images/IMG_6109.JPG)
(http://vcard.homer-simpson.de/images/homer/pic18.jpg)
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its also nice to have an indoor car park.
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"someone's built the stairs upside down"
No the photo is of our cupbaord under the stairs. It is of course the world's largest cupbaord under the stairs :whistle:
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No the photo is of our cupbaord under the stairs. It is of course the world's largest cupbaord under the stairs :whistle:
Where are the stais going? From what I can see they look like they are going up to the worlds largest ceiling.
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idoh!
someone's built the stairs upside down
(http://www.climbingworks.com/Images/IMG_6109.JPG)
fucking hell, who designed this wall, Escher? Reminds me of the movie Labyrinth:
(http://members.lycos.nl/amazingart/images/escher_jareth.jpg)
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(http://members.lycos.nl/amazingart/images/escher_jareth.jpg)
Name that climber...
(Seems he's covered himsealth in stealth rubber...New tactics for the new skool...)
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Nic Sellers during his Van Halen days
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That offwidth's inspired.
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:lol: funny as ........IPMSL at the labyrinth shot, thanks!
nice boots he's wearin, could offer heel point to toe foot jams for the offwidth. can we hire them from the wall so to minimise the *emelda marcus* situation??
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Name that climber...
I hope you're not serious! Anyone who doesn't know that's D should be ashamed.
Great film BTW. Love the little gremlin contraptions in their city...
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i liked the talking door knockers.
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Name that climber...
I hope you're not serious! Anyone who doesn't know that's D should be ashamed.
You wally. ::)
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All the main wall structures are now finished in the Works, and the matting has started to arrive. All our bargain memberships have sold too, so if you were waiting for a bit before you got one - sorry but you just missed out. Snooze and you loose! We'll try and update the pictures on the website today. It is looking pretty impressive now, even if I say so myself. :jaw:
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Name that climber...
Michael Reardon?
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Just posted some more pics:
www.climbingworks.com
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(http://www.climbingworks.com/Images/IMG_6140.JPG)
Wow, that's a lot of campus board... Just wondering, has anyone ever tried having a campus board with big fat sloper rungs on it?
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Yes we have. It will be ready for your use in the next 3 or 4 weeks. 6 inch diameter plastic pipe, split in half length-ways and covered in grip-tape to make the most awesome open-handed campus rungs you'll ever hang from. And the full size range of normal rungs. And routered slots. We like to cover all the bases, know what I mean...!
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I'm almost tempted to move back to the UK now....
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Just wondering, has anyone ever tried having a campus board with big fat sloper rungs on it?
When I'm pulling as hard as I can, footless, the last thing I want to happen is my hand to do is pop off a hold. I wouldn't use sloping holds on a campus board or fingerboard, but I have quite greasy hands and have hurt myself before with hands popping off holds when I'm pulling hard on them.
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uncle decided he would remove one row of the small rungs on the school campus board and replace them with new rungs, which are flat, at 90 degrees to the board and have no beval whatsoever. A lot harder than using normal campus rungs and slopey. Good for power though. damn you uncle! ;)
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you don't get strong pulling on big rungs, that's for sure. You need small, non incut holds. I don't know about these sloper/sandpaper things. The ones at mile end aren't very good in my opinion, mainly because they are too easy.
chris, where have you been? Recently, the school has not had any new problems that only the tall can do. Coincidence? :whistle:
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and covered in grip-tape
fucking hell I hope you dont mean that glue-backed skateboard sandpaper type stuff. Is this campus board for people who've recently commited a crime and want to remove their fingerprints? wouldn't it just be better with 3inch diamater wooden dowel split in half?
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No, just a light texture on the pipe rungs. No need to worry about our typists fingers being chaffed! The worst video in the world of a tour of the works is now on our blog. And a timelapse sequence of some of the boards being built. Our apologies!
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chris, where have you been? Recently, the school has not had any new problems that only the tall can do. Coincidence?
i maybe be over next weekend............if you're lucky. missing my good lucks and boyish charm eh?
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No, just a light texture on the pipe rungs. No need to worry about our typists fingers being chaffed! The worst video in the world of a tour of the works is now on our blog. And a timelapse sequence of some of the boards being built. Our apologies!
MAJOR MAJOR WADDAGE
for making weather conditions in the peak not an issue any more, and for being at work in a nice sunny day!!!!
best luck :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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The worst video in the world of a tour of the works is now on our blog. And a timelapse sequence of some of the boards being built. Our apologies!
Woah. Very impressive indeed! It's starting to look really cool. I like some of the parts where you've got flat roofs leading into slabs/walls. And the skip things look pretty wild. The only think I'm not convinced about is the steps - what's the theory behind them.
Looks like you guys are well inspired making this one, and that's really coming across in how it's looking.
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The only think I'm not convinced about is the steps - what's the theory behind them.
Burbage, remergence area? and to remove all of the skin on your shin when your foot slips.
Any chance of a load of pockets on the fixed board? mono's and all? :great:
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The steps are well small though from the looks of things.
The block roofs I was praising are more in line with what you're suggesting.
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hmmm...there was one in the woodie before which was good because you could climb something really quite steep on marginal holds.
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wall looks amazing. could someone please message me sam whitakers number as i lost my fone and he isnt one for using the internet himself. thanks.
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I like the idea of the "signature problems" - I suspect they will see a lot of use!
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hmmm...there was one in the woodie before which was good because you could climb something really quite steep on marginal holds.
to be honest i thought the stepped bit at the woody was the weakest part of the whole settup. yeah you could use poor handholds but all footholds feel like jugs, cos your body is at a 45degree angle but you're getting the footholds as if on a vertical wall. yeah I had some good problems on there, but they always seemed to be more about knack rather than owt else. will be interesting to see if the ones at the new place are any better - looks like smaller staps, might be better for not raking your elbows on etc.
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step boards r brilliant as they allow u to train for grit n slopey granite. used to hav one in my house, all the holds were upside down jugs, or things designed as footholds allows u too pull on small/non positive holds and to use different techniqes like heel n toe hooks which r hard to set on 45
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What is the difference between a stepped board that averages out at 45 degrees with a load of 45 degree slopers on it, and a 45 degree board with a load of flat holds on it (which will end up at, errr, 45 degrees....)??
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angle of the footholds, and sometimes more room for knees etc.
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vast difference because of the way u can angle yor body, plus undercuts on the underside of the steps feel totally different and allow u to toehook in a way u cant do on a 45 unless the hold is a bucket.
i uderstand the sceptism u kinda need to climb on one to fully apreciate it.
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or depreciate it as the case may be
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a bag of humbugs for the gentleman
and a cuddle
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Ckeck out the website and blog pages......soem crazy graffitti artists have vandalised the unfinished walls! :jaw:....... :whistle:
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Hmmm, fan of simple grey myself. Still one will be able to pull down whatever the colours.
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More pics (including Percy on his Super Slide!) uploaded.
www.climbingworls.com
MattH
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Doh,
www.climbingworks.com
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whats that about www.climbingworks.com?
is mick logged on as MattH?
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slightly off topic but where do the volumes come from?
i.e.
(http://www.climbingworks.com/Images/IMG_6193.JPG)
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slightly off topic but where do the volumes come from?
i.e.
(http://www.climbingworks.com/Images/IMG_6193.JPG)
Holland
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id say egypt
(http://www.saocenter.it/Le%20mie%20esperienze/Eclisse%20totale%20in%20egitto/foto%20dei%20monumenti/Chefren-P.jpg)
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AXIS. Dutch company that does much good work in the field of bueno plastic. www.axisroundedges.com should get you there, if my memory serves me correctly. These holds are the business, so they will be in our wall.
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Their Rough Edges range look The Shit. Might go ther after all ;)
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Cheers Percy :great:
the holds look the business too, might have to get some
also from Holland, can't get the picture up because it's a flash web site but have a look at this bouldering gym in Antwerp
they have an elephant boulder... cool as... :bounce:
http://www.klimzaalblok.be/ (http://www.klimzaalblok.be/)
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For those who are interested, The Climbing Works will also be sporting grips from the following manufacturers. Moon Climbing have kindly donated a ruck of bespoke plastic for our training board. Revolution (the artists formally known as pusher) have shipped a ton of grips for our walls, as have SoIll. Straight outta Slovenia come a load of lovely Lapis creations, as well as holds from Holdz, and Metolius have also come up with the goods for us. The Axis stuff is the icing on the cake. And that'll be 7500 of the finest resin grips on the planet all in one space at one time. That lot locked up with me and the ginger ninja for a coupla weeks, and you know whats going to happen...... DIRT! :dance1:
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Just added a recruitment page to the site, and also a list of the lucky people who got themselves a discounted membership.
www.climbingworks.com
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From the design page, it looks like just left of the training board, a large roof joins the end wall into the circuit areas. Haven't seen any photos of this yet - what sort of size is it going to be?
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hope you get some bleaustone in there perc.
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yeah bleustone holds are the shiznit :great:
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No Bleaustone at the moment. Maybe one day, but we can't afford them right now, as you can imagine. Then again, we got some amazing holds already - ones most folks out there will never have seen before, so brace yourselves....
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Got an opening date yet?
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Official opening date is the 9th of December, but we should start letting people in a couple of weeks before this date. Keep an eye on the website and we'll let everybody know as soon as all systems are go.
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Planning to use any wooden holds Percy?
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Maybe.....
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Percy, have you got any big roofs?
Just looked at the blog - that's one caaraazy colour scheme. Reckon you need a few of these:
(http://www.theglowcompany.co.uk/acatalog/LAVA_LAMPS_HUGE_T.jpg)
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Its the resin fumes - sent me a bit psychedelic. At least, I think its the fumes :whistle:
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just dropped off the grip tape for the slopey campus board and we stuck a bit on to have a bash............ I still have skin hoorah!
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The campus board is nearly finished - :jaw: Be afraid, everybody. Campusing at altitude! Stick your 1-5-9 shit. We got 1-5-9-13 and an extra rung to finish on!
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only 14 rungs? I was expecting 20 odd...
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Keith, a campus board starts at 6 foot off the deck. 14 rungs takes you another 10 feet (assuming standard 9 inch spacing, which the rungs obviously are). So when you hit the 14th rung you will be 16 feet of the deck. Any higher and you would need to be on a rope. And we don't do the rope thing. Trust me - you don't even want to see a 21 rung campus board. The 14 rung creation we just built is very, very big - and should be more than enough to meet most peoples campus requirements.
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:kiss2:
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Aaahhh, the malnourished one. Too big for you, shagnasty, far too big! Highball campusing.
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any chance of a few pics of this monster in you blog Percy?
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I concur with Percys' campus board theory. I had a look today and agree that you would not want to campus any higher without a rope. I can also confirm that i have never seen a campus board as big, and with as many rung selections.
May i suggest 'uncle' that you keep your moaning to yourself until you are able to campus the 'new' 1-5-9-13' benchmark.
Nowadays 1-5-9 is so old 'school' (no pun intended).
On a more serious note, the wall looks fantastic and near to completion. Good job guys.
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I'll try and post some piccies on the blog tommorrow.
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sounds like campus-ing yosemite style, will there be bolts so i can put a porta ledge around rung 7!!!
is there a little areas for kids to boulder? my little 3 and ahalf old boy's really into bouldering. likes to jump onto the pads from as high he as he can go...
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Picture of campus board now on the blog. Enlarge the picture so you can enjoy the expression on Longy's face! All I'm saying is I told you so. Now i'm off to pop my elbows in a couple of buckets of ice........
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I've not responded to this thread yet, but now I'm going to:
1: A massive well done and good luck to everyone involved. Takes guts to step into the unknown with a new venture. I hope it's a massive commercial success.
2: The wall looks fu**ing awesome! I for one will be spending many sessions here over the winter.
3: The campus board looks incredible, a definite step up from my own 10 rung affair in my living room, and compromised, from my point of view, only by convenience (I can be on the bottom rung of my board within 7 seconds of waking up - a fact that has never actually been tested). I was talking to Rich today about the possibility of putting resting jugs or other holds under the central section between the boards so that you need never get off during you session.
4: Can I pop in and see it if I'm in Sheff this week?
5: See point 6.
6: Actually there is no point 6, point 5 was a bit misleading in that respect.
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Yes.
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just an info:
tou said you space the rungs 9": that makes 22,5 cm.
i used to think, and i read it somewhere like in the metolius website, that usual spacing is 8", so 20cm.
is 9" a brit extravaganza for very strong people or did i just train wrong in tha last five years?
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please post pics in the pictures part of your web page since the blog is considered "non educational" around these parts! :'(
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Oh no Nibile, you'll discover you can only do 1 - 4.8 - 8.6 !
The only solution is ritual hari-kari...
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from the little I know, 22.5cm is the industry standard. 22cm for those softies, and 23cm for beasts. If you've been training on 20cm for years then what can i say??? :whistle:
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Keith, sure its 22cm. Will check at the board tonight. Where surely, these must be considered 'the' reference rungs. Everything else must follow.
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What about thickness of rungs? Surely that has to be taken into account!
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i think here in italy 20cm is more suited to our south-europe standard height...
its just to be even... ;)
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What about thickness of rungs? Surely that has to be taken into account!
??? Not if you measure from the centre of the rungs, ie where you're drilling your holes.
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Rung size makes no difference as long as you measure from the same point on each rung. You could measure top-top, bottom-bottom, or middle-middle. Clearly it would make no difference.
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Keith, sure its 22cm. Will check at the board tonight. Where surely, these must be considered 'the' reference rungs. Everything else must follow.
As magnificent as the School is, surely 'the' reference rungs are the Gullich originals in Nuremberg. Does the Mother Board still exist?
Did Gullich ever manage 1,5,9?
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Whilst you guys are all dancing round on the head of that pin, 20cm 22cm 23cm Dont ya know that size is irrelevant (ish). This new place sounds a bit hardcore for the likes of lil' ol' me, I was just wondering if any other bouldering bumblies were intending to frequent Percy's padded playground or do you have to show your 1-6-14 credentials at the door.
Will there be any diet tango in the vending machines ? .... I need it because i'm WEAK! :boohoo:
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I believe Percival is providing for everyone, not just the strength obsessed losers (such as myself) who take delight from pointing out the differences in campus rung distance.
Turboman, good point - you can have that. I will bow to the might of the Gullich and accept that his campus board is both the original and better.
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and If you can do 1-6-14 I will buy you diet tango. For the rest of your life.
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Whilst you guys are all dancing round on the head of that pin, 20cm 22cm 23cm Dont ya know that size is irrelevant (ish). This new place sounds a bit hardcore for the likes of lil' ol' me, I was just wondering if any other bouldering bumblies were intending to frequent Percy's padded playground or do you have to show your 1-6-14 credentials at the door.
Will there be any diet tango in the vending machines ? .... I need it because i'm WEAK! :boohoo:
from the list of the first 50 paid up, it seems that only punters will be frequenting it (apart from Paul ofcourse). :lol:
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im just hoping there will be some pockets, lots of pockets in fact,(There will be pockets right?) work that weakness....
although I do like the sound of these campus board footless circuits (who knows it might even pry strong ed out of the confines of the furnace.
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who knows it might even pry strong ed out of the confines of the furnace.
I really can't see that happening!
I'm also hoping there will be lots of pockets - play those strengths!
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New pics on website. I believe our campus board is industry standard. In fact, I believe it has just set the industry standard. And no more disparraging comments about 'punters' Keith, otherwise you will be sent to the extensive slab area where the punters will mock your lack of ability to campus to glory ;)
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THe skip things look awesome - they will really open the doors for some ridiculous route setting, can't wait :great:
Those slopey campus rungs look a bit scary!
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And no more disparraging comments about 'punters' Keith, otherwise you will be sent to the extensive slab area where the punters will mock your lack of ability to campus to glory ;)
Hahaha!
Looking good guys, although I might have to switch my eyes to black and white when I visit.
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ha ha.. yes, slabs... I've only climbed a 7C+ slab so you are right! Look forward to getting down there...
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Where did you manage to find a 7c+ slab indoors? You're telling me the school has one?
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:lol: :lol: very good. I was told if you climb up the back of the 50 degree board it is 7C+.
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is it fuck. I have been up there many a time (in my role as caretaker) and its about 4+. The back of the 30 and even the 15 are an altogether different proposition. I think they merit an e grade as failure results in impalement on the backs of the screws.
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Is it just me, or are the set of rungs next to the black slopers about the width of a fingernail? Anyway, must go for a breather now - all these pictures of huge campus boards are making me stickydamp...
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They are inset slots. About 15mm deep IIRC
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. . . and would those be pinching monkey-swing rails beneath said campus board?!? :-\
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Went and had a look today - this place is going to be quality :)
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Did Gullich ever manage 1,5,9?
Well if Irish Si managed it i'm sure the great Wolfgang did ;)
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Surely 1-8-14 is the new standard!
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When i was young and uber keen and still at school, i used to doodle and create the perfect board on my note pad. I use to imagine how cool it would be to open the best climbing wall. To have the best holds, the steepest board, the hardest problems. It would have loads of angles, stupid amounts of roofs (and i seem to remember thinking that a high totty quotant would be important too). The fact that you are realising what has obviously been a dream for you guys is awesome. Its one thing to think, quite another to do. Muchos respect and i'm sure it will be a resounding success.
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The Climbing Works will also be sporting grips from the following manufacturers............. SoIll.
just got a set through the post from http://www.thehouseofpower.co.uk/ (http://www.thehouseofpower.co.uk/) and they are .... well SO ill
light as a feather, duel texture, can drop them and they bounce and brilliant shapes to boot
makes me feel like :dance1:
(http://www.thehouseofpower.co.uk/USERIMAGES/Kidney_Stones.jpg)
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Why the pills.... are they to prove to us you're a real doctor ?? or simply for scale?
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imagine slapping for those holds and hitting on of those wing things!!!
can you get them at toys r us???
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I'm not sure how psyched I am about holds modelled on frictionless pebbles :-\.
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the soill screwies look very cool indeed.... both hands and feet.......
i'm gonna get some asap!!
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Why the pills.... are they to prove to us you're a real doctor ??
not my photo, mine came in black, but for the record Dr T is what the bills come addressed too
imagine slapping for those holds and hitting on of those wing things!!!
I slap for things too much, these need to go static and I need to start to build up lock off strength again
I'm not sure how psyched I am about holds modelled on frictionless pebbles :-\.
fair enough each to their own....
I love 'em
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Why the pills.... are they to prove to us you're a real doctor ??
not my photo, mine came in black...
Ah I see..
but for the record Dr T is what the bills come addressed too...
Me too (a Dr T that is) although I'm only a pretend one with a PhD in Manufacturing Engineering...
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Me too (a Dr T that is) although I'm only a pretend one with a PhD in Manufacturing Engineering...
ok got me I've a dPhil in chemistry.......
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I'm not sure how psyched I am about holds modelled on frictionless pebbles :-\.
I always looked at those standard pebbley beaches with solid immaculate round grey pebbles and thought it would be cool if there was a crag made of that shit. Then I went and saw that bubbly wall with a Funky Si' E6 on at Marsland. And went to sharpnose (but only did cracks as was misty so can only rememebr it being a bit generic).
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Me too (a Dr T that is) although I'm only a pretend one with a PhD in Manufacturing Engineering...
ok got me I've a dPhil in chemistry.......
Hence the pills in the picture then - I bet they are you home manufactured Nandrolene/Steroid compound ;-)
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Hence the pills in the picture then - I bet they are you home manufactured Nandrolene/Steroid compound ;-)
now you come to mention it...
where did I stash my test tubes :whistle:
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I always looked at those standard pebbly beaches with solid immaculate round grey pebbles and thought it would be cool if there was a crag made of that shit.
never been but from the pictures churnet valley looks like it is.... kind of....
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Wye Valley sandstone's the same.
But my dream crag was more made out of one big giant smooth grey pebble. There was a photoo in one of the mags a few years ago of this route in a North Devon Hardcore article.
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Check out the re-designed website and let us know what you think.
www.climbingworks.com
Ps try Ctrl+F5 to refresh your cache if the new stuff doesn't show
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Think it looks a bit better in that colour scheme, however most of your pics arent working for me (anyone else?) and maybe the header being the same width as your text may help make it look a bit more swish.
The gallery is pretty smart imo.
Popped in last night and was really impressed by the way this place is looking, initially I was really dubious about the art work but the detail near those pipes is pretty cool and you can pick out the holds on the training board fine which was another concern I had.
The campus board is awesome as well, the big rungs will be good for warming up/doubles/power endurance slogs.
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Yep the photos don't work for me either, will ask Matt to have a look tomorrow (slacker has gone out for the evening, staff these days eh)
Good point about the headers and text being the same width.
Intention is to get lots of galleries up over time. Trying to sort out a gallery of FIBO shots at the moment (hint - if anyone has any then can you send them to me) as a sort of bouldering in Sheff history gallery.
FIBO might soon be back under a new alias.
Percy has been setting the green with red spots circuit today so he'll probably get some shots on the Blog later.
Also we have the Le Grande Fromage himself, Monsieur Godoffe, arriving later this week to set some filth and walk up all of the Peak's hardest problems.
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No pictures on blog, cos I haven't taken any. However, all my concerns about whether circuits will work in the Works have been answered. It works....oh Christ, does it work!!!!! Everybody - prepare to get very, very fit and strong. :thumbsup:
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Also we have the Le Grande Fromage himself, Monsieur Godoffe, arriving later this week to set some filth and walk up all of the Peak's hardest problems.
Doesn't matter how good/strong you are, you can't scare off the rain! Unfortunately. Wall's looking good.
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Any of you who have joined up but haven't given us your contact details ie address, phone and email so we can have you all entered on our database can you send me your details via a PM
Ta
Graeme
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Doh. Never make a website live and then go out for 5 hours! A few bugs that shou;d hopefully now be fixed. Am working on adding captions to the gallery images and a newsletter subscription facility to the home page.
Any other comments?
MattH
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Nice one Matt, how did the show go?
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It was a very good show. Tim isn't the most polished lecturer about, but he puts more energy into his shows than anybody else I've ever seen. Really, really inspirational.
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Well done guys, the site is looking MUCH better.
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Went down to Percy's Palace this morning to drop in my photos and shook hands with Jacky Godoffe who's there problem setting. The place looks stunning, 2 circuits alreay up.
Should I put this in the waddage thread to get some points ?
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Should I put this in the waddage thread to get some points ?
You mean Percy, or Jacky?? :P
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LOL er........Jacky
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dont mean to be thick here:
are these circuits like totally looonng problems that link up ...or tons of graded problems in a similar band of difficulty aka a red circuit at font type of thing??
ta.
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think it means a lot of holds in a circle.
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ohhhh....
not so good then...... i'm sure it'll be good for fitness etc.. just i had visions of *red* and *black* type circuits, all over various angles of wall, all differing in style - to give a whole body workout with out having to get massivley pumped.
i know there will be 1000s of problems, but having the above deliniated would IMO be a fun way to train and maintain interest - time taken to complete, no falls completion - first one to fall 3 times buys the coffee, 5 falls and yr out etc... etc... you can hear the whispers every few months *new red circuit at the works*..excited bands of boulderers furtively looking around the boards for their new 30 problems
i'm probably getting a bit caried away - but you see my point.
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Dobbin is being facetious. The circuits will be just as you imagine as far as I can tell.
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From what I understood I don't think circuits will be anything like fatdoc imagines. I would think the circuits will be routes with no rope and no clips. Ie. Huge monster link ups, not one problem after another with rests on the ground (like in font).
Anyway, the wall is looking great, and I would very much like to give you my money and climb there sometime soon. Please ask Mr. Godoffe to set some hard problems (ie. above 8A). It would be amazing if the numerous beasts that have been mentioned to set signature problems could set things up to font 8B+ so there can be lifetime projects for people (and you could lay claim to having an indoor problem in sheffield harder than perky pinky). Merci!
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I remember Sam saying something about Font style circuits. I think thats what Jacky Godoffe is doing. I guess they'll have really long ones like Unclesomebody says as well. I would say there's room for both.
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They look to me exactly as you describe Fatdoc. P said this morning that 2 were completed. An easier one and one where the grades were between 7a and 7b+.
P showed the start of one of them handily labelled with a 1, then go round the corner, do no. 2 etc etc
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Fatdoc has the right idea, each problem is ten feet or so from the previous one in the circuit (so I hear) so unless you can levitate between problems there's gonna be time on the mats to grow back skin....
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I dont suppose that Percy has coughed up an opening date yet (other than the official one) ? :yawn:
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..excited bands of boulderers furtively looking around the boards for their new 30 problems
As with most things, it seems the good people at climbingworks are going for that little bit more...
6 graded circuits, each consisting of 50 colour-coded boulder problems, reset every 3 months
Can't wait!
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I remember Sam saying something about Font style circuits. I think thats what Jacky Godoffe is doing. I guess they'll have really long ones like Unclesomebody says as well. I would say there's room for both.
I too thought there was going to be both font style circuits and stamina traverses. Mainly due to the fact it says on the website that it will.
We aim to provide a number of very long and sustained routes, graded from F6a to F8b.
6 graded circuits, each consisting of 50 colour-coded boulder problems, reset every 3 months
But hey-ho if you guys want to start making things up and debate about it, instead of taking 5 seconds to look it up, don't let me get in the way. ;)
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squeek, i wont.
i was just seeking clarity on what people have seen down there recently, and how it's shaping up.
i'll be down there soon, but i just wanted to hear opinion on exactly what's already been set.
It's called a forum - to debate, inform and generally pass the day at work before going training...
chill dude.
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yeah chill out! ;)
talking of indoor walls...boulderuk tonight?
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I was only joking. :)
Went BUK on tue and I'm off to the Mcr comp tomorrow so I'm resting my injury prone fingers. All new probs downstairs if you haven't been this week.
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ok, good luck to you and adam (i assume). saw the problems on monday when a few choice holds were still wet. nice.
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I have just been for another look around, under the guise of 'work', and it looks fab. This wall is just amazing. I think my appalling lack of fitness is about to be a problem. Met Jacky too - awesome.
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But hey-ho if you guys want to start making things up and debate about it, instead of taking 5 seconds to look it up, don't let me get in the way. ;)
Never let facts get in the way. It spoils a good argument.
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Far be it for me to be worthy of taking the piss out of the great Jacky Godoffe, but when they persuaded him to set problems did it go something like:
"OK, il est indoors, mait il est tres bien, et vous voulez je sand-bag tous les rosbiffs, non?"
"Et je peut arrive a Sheffield par Doncaster et Paris? Bon."
"Et vous avez du cafe et des croissants acceptablement dans Sheffield. Hmmm. "
"Vous avez les decathlon? Le meme choise de chez mois! Il est trois minutes! Mon dieu, I'm there!"
Are his dogs with him in Sheffield - you need him and his dogs for the full proper wad tick don't you?
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Jacky kicked me really hard in the face last night (spotting mishap). Will that make up for his lack of dogs? My circuits consist of a load of individual problems of a similar grade - not a piss boring stam ladder piece of toss. How very dare you all - thinking I'd have you all climbing in circles. If you want that sheizer, make your own up on the fixed hold board. I ain't doing it for you.
Jacky and me are currently engrossed in setting the hardest circuit - nothing harder than 7b+, but nothing easier than 7a, and with 40 problems in all styles, I'll wager that nobody will flash all the problems. In fact, I reckon that it maybe a long while before anybody does all 40 in a session. Ask Dobbin - he sampled the 18 move 7a+ on the comp wall today - I think he liked it.....
I spent an afternoon in my office (Stanage) with Jacky this afternoon - he likes....a lot. Roll on Saturday and bon temps!
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percy
we will need photographic (and possible video) evidence of the great man on the grit you know ;D
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On the blog now. He did very well, suprisingly for such a punter....... oh no, that was me. He loved the grit, as you might expect, and will be back. No big numbers as we were completely destroyed from setting what is known as the 'purple circuit'. Jacky has donated copies of his new Font guide to the first person to complete all 40 problems, the first person to do all 40 in a day (big, big job I reckon!) and another to the first lady to complete problem 37 - a problem Jacky thinks may be impossible for a bird. I'm not so sure....
For all you school-using punters ( ;)) out there, the purple cicuit has 40 problems from 6b to 7c - the majority in the 6c+ to 7b region though. All problems require thought and the ability to climb, rather than brute force and ignorance, so I reckon the guidebooks might be safe for a bit. Feel free to try and prove me wrong (but I am right.)
Rumour has it you've only got another coupla weeks to wait.......
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have you thought of a way in which forgetful people like me can remember which problems they have/havent done? (emphasis on the havent)? With 3 circuits there's going to be loads...
and just out of intrest how are the problems going to be marked up, a system similar to the edge would have to be quite sizeable ;)
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Yes
and
of course
(both would be a pain to explain and would have lots more people asking lots more questions so just wait and see!!)
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For all you school-using punters ( ;)) out there, the purple cicuit has 40 problems from 6b to 7c - the majority in the 6c+ to 7b region though. All problems require thought and the ability to climb, rather than brute force and ignorance, so I reckon the guidebooks might be safe for a bit. Feel free to try and prove me wrong (but I am right.)
As one of the lucky ones who have had a pre-opening taster, I can confirm the purple circuit looks awesome! The two purple probs I've done were both of the utmost quality, but not forgetting the spotty circuit which might be easier but its great fun and a proper workout too!
Good work fellas, bring on the opening day...
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Was in saturday night, purple does look nails! Kids probs look hard enough!!!! Set by Master cort and cort jnr, brought in to gauge difficulty and suprised many by level of hardness needed for 5-8 year olds!
have to say the slide is great!
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Well, seeing as this place has everything...any chance of a dyno wall, with a selection of starting and finishing holds at different distances? Would be great to have a less random way of improving leapiness than just trying the odd dyno that crops up here and there. Here's hoping...
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dynos on the purple circuit will keep you happy for many months....
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The purple circuit sounds like it will be excellent, but I was more wondering about the possibility of having a place to practice dynos in isolation in the same way that you use woodys to practice other moves. Would be great to have lots close together, so that you could really work on dynoing, and progress to harder and higher holds... It wouldn't have to be a large section of wall, and I'm sure it would be really popular.
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Would be great to have lots close together, so that you could really work on dynoing, and progress to harder and higher holds... It wouldn't have to be a large section of wall, and I'm sure it would be really popular.
Oh yeah, very popular for about 2 weeks. If you want to practice dynos then just make your own up, you'll know which ones you can do and which you can't, then keep trying the ones you can't. I very much doubt most climbers would use a dnyo only section regularly. I wouldn't.
You don't happen to be tall and good at dynos do you?
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There is a 20 degree board :whistle:
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Oh yeah, very popular for about 2 weeks. If you want to practice dynos then just make your own up, you'll know which ones you can do and which you can't, then keep trying the ones you can't. I very much doubt most climbers would use a dnyo only section regularly. I wouldn't.
I dunno, I reckon a lot of people would use it. I was only talking of a 2m wide strip of wall, not turning climbing works into dynoworks... ::)
But hey, I'm sure there will be plenty of dyno potential. Just thought it was worth asking.
You don't happen to be tall and good at dynos do you?
If only I was taller and better. Can't do anything about the first, but the second...
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you'll be asking for a board to hang your lists on next. ;)
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you'll be asking for a board to hang your lists on next. ;)
They need a special board with bulldog clips screwed into the t-nuts :P
For all you school-using punters ( ;)) out there, the purple cicuit has 40 problems from 6b to 7c - the majority in the 6c+ to 7b region though.
That English or Font grades?
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you'll be asking for a board to hang your lists on next. ;)
They need a special board with bulldog clips screwed into the t-nuts :P
So spill the beans - what wood did you use and is it easy to move out of the way when you want to watch TV?
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That English or Font grades?
All us school punters are cranking english 7c these days Fiend ;)
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In fact, 7c isnt that hard any more and 7b is approaching a rest.
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We wil be open for business on Sunday 3rd December. More details on website in the news section.
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We wil be open for business on Sunday 3rd December. More details on website in the news section.
Will certainly be down for a look but won't be playing till the new year due to injury :(
What grade range are the other circuits set at as the purple circuit would beast the hell out of me even if I was 10 years younger and cranking like a mutant.
bluebrad
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Went down for a sneaky play yesterday. There 2 hours, did about 30 problems and felt like we had barely scratched the surface, climbing on less than 1/5 of the wall area, and the panels we climbed on looked positively barren of holds. When it's all up and running it's going to be staggeringly big. Some excellent problems set so far on all the circuits.
MattH
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i'll second that.
Just did a selection of the 3 easiest circuits and i can confirm:
the quality of the venue, the quality of the problems and basically the whole indoor varied angle / style thing... and a huge number of problems for all abilities on offer. The proof was always going to be in the climbing; and it's awesome.
Not even been on half of it yet either!!!
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Oh immense joy. The first time in my life that I'm happy for a shit weather forecast. Sunday the 9th of December - its going to piss down - neatly coinciding with the opening day of the biggest bouldering wall in the universe. In the immortal words of Lesley Crowther, 'COME ON DOWN!'
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It's good to know that about 50,000 people will turn up and still not have to queue for problems!
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Exactly. 'cos they'll all be too busy drinking the finest Italian coffe, and scoffing quality sarnies prepared by the lovely people at Bregazzis.
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Free food for the opening? Or just very nice food?
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right,
i know the doors are open to one and all from the 3rd.....a sunday
and the 9th is the official opening day...... thats a saturday n'est pa?? not the sunday as mentioned above.
so, it's all open on this sunday.... but the big opening is on the saturday next...
yeah??
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Just v nice food.
We don't seem to be doing very good with dates. Percy means that the forecast for Sunday 3rd December is shit. (not Sunday 9th December).
And the Premier Post on UKC should also say opening 3rd Dec (not 3rd October). This was was my fault.
Oh yeah Percy enjoy swanning around in Eindhoven, 'relaxing' while the rest of us deal with the onslaught on Sunday. Yer bastard.
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graeme,
sunday 3rd and sunday 9th december in same year?
too much work lately, i presume!!!
;D
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Yeah, we are doing too much, in fact we are all tripping out, I mean on Saturday I could have sworn that someone sent us a model climbing cow in the post ;D
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I cannnot believe how excited I am about this wall given that I live in germany. Totally psyched for a visit when I am back at Christmas, I am really looking forward to it.
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Bregazzis sarnies?
Swank!
Fuck training, I'll go down there to eat - if you can't get fit, get fat!
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Yo, what's the likely opening time Sunday AM? Weather is looking appropriately gash and I'm thinking of getting down there before the queues...
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10 AM is the opening time AFAIK - 1 day 23 hours and 38 minutes to go - just wish I was able to go there and climb but I will have to make do with just a visit to have a look and dream and eat cake and drink coffee. :(
bluebrad
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You picked the right day to open the wall. From mwis peak forecast:
Sunday
Southwest veering westerly, in
the range 40 to 60mph, gusts 60
to 180mph.
Very severe winds will make
walking very difficult where
exposed. You could be blown
over. Sever wind chill.
Periods of heavy rain
At best heavy squally showers
with hail and perhaps on highest
areas, snow. At worst, periods of
heavy or torrential rain
!!!
Good omen
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10 AM is the opening time AFAIK - 1 day 23 hours and 38 minutes to go - just wish I was able to go there and climb but I will have to make do with just a visit to have a look and dream and eat cake and drink coffee. :(
Word. Sounds about right. You'll be able to do more bouldering than batty though - what are you two like!! You can come and heckle me in my cold-weakened state....
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I cannnot believe how excited I am about this wall given that I live in germany. Totally psyched for a visit when I am back at Christmas, I am really looking forward to it.
I live in sydney and Im coming back at christmas under the pretence of seeing the folks, to check things out
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You can come and heckle me in my cold-weakened state....
Now that I can manage and it will be almost as much fun too... ;D
bluebrad
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Urgent message to anybody planning to come along on Sunday or early next week. The bank have just announced that the PDQ machine will not be installed in time so please bring cash or cheques until at least Wednesday 6th.
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Word.
Word.
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Word.
Word.
Word².
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Word².
= Word UP?
Everybody say!
(http://static.firedoglake.com/2006/07/cameo20.jpg)
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Can't figure out what is going off to the right hand side on that pic Chris - has a person with a head shaped like a guitar invaded the stage or is the guitarist getting a blow job from a groupie and trying to hide the fact? :)
bluebrad
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what's the exepected opening hours this sunday? and equally the regular opening hours on normal days? Last time i looked on website it was missing.
Cheers
tim
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Can't figure out what is going off to the right hand side on that pic Chris - has a person with a head shaped like a guitar invaded the stage or is the guitarist getting a blow job from a groupie and trying to hide the fact? :)
Knowing Cameo, I expect he's gettin' down!
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I believe that the opening hours this Sunday are 10am until 8pm.
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Wow. It looks fab. Even in a week loads has been done. Amazing. You guys be careful this Sunday! they have icepacks on sale though, so when you blow a fuse get yourself in the shop. It looks like a real climbing wall now. Tres cool. :great:
Check out the big purple dobbin jug at the top of the board. I am immortal! :dance1:
Hotspot installed and tested ok. Few tweaks to finish and thats your lot.
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went for a look today - fantastic! there must of been 50 people in there and it didn't look half full.
coffee was good (with a special trip to find decent milk that frothed!)
sandwich v good
wall looked awesome - standing at the back of the comp wall and looking out made me pumped. and i was only holding a coffee cup.
the campus board is sick.
great atmosphere - people really psyched to play on the problems.
and its all so clean, no dust, no old matresses, good temperature!
maybe in the new year my body will work enough for me to play on the slide/kids circuit!
good effort :thumbsup:
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OMFG
welcome to an awesome facility
it really is the best wall i have ever been on, the circuit concept works just SO well. went out with a beginner - was bouldering with my kids, some schoolies, my mates - and we all could climb on the same piece of wall and had just the best time.
This place defines indoor climbing without ropes for the future - and I for one will be there.
Thankyou climbingworks.
Nearly everyone I have climbed with in the last 20 years was there, no elitism, no cliques.
I feel so happy, in fact i feel stoned !!!
BTW, its my birthday! One hell of a day...... never forgotten.
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happy birthday fatdoc
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Went down to just have a look, ended up scrounging boots and chalk in order to climb!
The problems that I tried were very interesting and pointed at a severe weakness in technique ;)
Will be down tomorrow to try things out some more (and hopefully get some work done in the breaks although i doubt it.)
Good effort to all those involved getting the place open. :great:
--Oh an the campus board is great, lots of fun to be had.
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Congrats to Sam/Percy/Graeme et al for bringing the best in indoor bouldering to Sheffield ;D
..............this place has shown a severe weakness in my fitness :(
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BIGNESS.
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Thanks guys, we feel all mushy now. Thanks for coming down and making our opening day a success.
Thanks also to Percy for not being here, always makes life less stressful :lol:
Lu & Lu, and Garry and Jon & Matt. Who all made it work along with me and Sam today..
Just counting the dosh and looking forward to tomorrow, lots of lessons learned but no disasters.
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I came. I climbed. I got grazes everywhere and aches and pains in most limbs except fingers and forearms...
Obvious:
Massive.
Huge variety.
Very well designed.
Can fit loads of people in and not be crowded.
Good:
Circuits idea really nice, works well.
Green, brown and purple holds are excellent. Spottys are fine.
Lots of bizzarre, technical weirdness problems - reaches/injures the parts other walls don't.
Great use of volumes and wall angles.
Problems are mostly great.
Arches are great fun.
Spectator friendly.
Good atmosphere in general.
No over-featured bollox.
Mostly no grades.
Could be improved:
Some blue holds don't feel that nice and a bit over-designed (edgy ones are okay).
Need more lighting on wall opposite campus board.
More consistency in starting positions, e.g. obvious sitters, would be good.
Seemed to be a bit lacking in less technical, more "straight pulling" problems.
Wall surface somewhat slippy and could do with more friction.
Felt a bit warm, started coming off problems due to sweat rather than weakness.
Overall it is great, it really does everything that was promised, and has just got a good FUN feel about it. I mention the issues just to give some ideas to make the best even better.
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Campus board could also do with numbering, there are so many rungs when you look up!
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what an excellent facility :bow:
to fiend's point about slippery wall finish; i think that's a positive attribute, making one use the holds and body tension as opposed to slapping one's flippers around
sort the tunes out and it's 100% :kiss2:
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Went down to have a look at the shiny new wall and very impressive it is too - in fact impressive just doesn't come close to how good it really is - you will have to go and see for yourselves. Couldn't climb as I am injured at the minute which really was rather depressing but watching Fiend flailing about in fine style made me feel a bit better. 8-)
All good points made by Fiend - can't think of anything else to add really - just getting really psyched now to get back climbing so I can go and try out the easiest circuit and build up from there.
bluebrad
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Fantastic. It's hard not to overdo it with so many good probs to try. My arms are wasted this morning.
Good coffee too.
Hats off to all concerned :great:
Fiend - I imagine that the full opening of the comp wall and the leaning area left of the fixed hold section will increase the volume of more basic steep fingery stuff.
Post session protein shakes served at the cafe would be most welcome.
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Could Some please post a tel No for the centre.
If any of the lads are veiwing, Greame, Percy or SAM
The one you have on the WEBSITE is WRONG.
Cheers
T
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Fantastic. It's hard not to overdo it with so many good probs to try. My arms are wasted this morning.
Amen to that brother. Absolutely wasted this morning. Might not stay for four hours next time.
Absolutely superb wall guys. The brown and purple cicuits are dynamite, plenty of them still left to do as well. :bow:
Viva la Godoffe.
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Went down there yesteday and had such a good time, did some really nice problems which i always imagined to be out of my league.
The coffee was cracking too, and it just had a general good feel to it all.
I'll be visiting again, hopefully i won't wreck myself like i did yesterday :thumbsup:
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Brilliant facility. might even venture further than the school on a few more occasions. the outside world is SO big, and not half as scary as i thought...
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You might not be scared of the outside world but they seem to be scared of you http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=215571&v=1 (check the picture links)
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ohh how i wanted to be there.
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Would just like to add my thanks and congratulations to the growing pile. Well done to the Climbingworks team, this wall is truly great!
Only slight downside - lots of chalk in the air. Was affecting my mate a bit, as he has asthma. Would be great if this could somehow be improved in future.
Once again though, great stuff!
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Ex-tractor fans maybe?
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Only slight downside - lots of chalk in the air. Was affecting my mate a bit, as he has asthma. Would be great if this could somehow be improved in future.
(http://www.epinions.com/images/opti/f1/41/05c48b776c541d8360abf081de10f03a1-resized200.jpg)
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Nice, but does it come with WAP?
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Ex-tractor fans maybe?
Go and stand in the car park and try and remember Playschool?
What can we see through the round window today kiddies?
Nowt 'cos they are full of great big extractor fans ;D
However slight electrical problem stops us turning them on at the moment, sorry.
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Who are you Hambul or Big Ted?
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Hmmm might explain the warmth too.
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To be honest I think it's hard to get a wall that's warm enough to not feel really cold when you come in, or are sitting about, but cold enough so you don't get sweaty when you're warmed up and working hard. It's especially noticeable if there's quite a few people trying the same problems as you. Upstairs at BUK doesn't have any heating, so it's very cold in winter, but if there were a few of you trying the traverse the holds would still get a bit greasy.
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Wall looks great guys! Can't wait to get down later this week!
So which parts aren't open yet? and when will it all be open? after this weekends British Team Trials?
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Agreed squeek, the number of people in general, and trying the bumbly problems I was trying, was as much of an issue as anything.
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Bear in mind brand new holds often feel a bit soapy
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Nice, but does it come with WAP?
for that you need one of these:
(http://www.fulflex.com/Images/industrial-dust-mask(k76p82).gif)
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last night i had this dream:
i was in shef at late evening, and was going to the works. there was a blond guy climbing a yellow holds problem (quite complex to be true), and i went out to a supermarket to buy a lock for my bike. while out i looked up to the sky, saw some clouds and thought that id better not thrash myself at the works in order to try brad pit the following day. i was very happy.
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cross thread post.
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ROFL Nibile!
I must confess I had two vivid dreams about the Works before it opened - you boys have got a lot to answer for. Andy who I met down there had also had a dream the night before. Where's the "complete fruitcase" smileys eh??
BTW, yellow is long but juggy...
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Went last night........ VG indeed.
Even after following all the hype and seeing the photos, was still very impressed on seeing it for real.
Great problems,..... make you think a bit more.
Trouble is there was so many problems, doesn't encourage you to work one problem, just move on to the next...... this will come with time when the excitement has wained a little.
Thought the grip tape on otherwise smooth volumes was a great idea.
The temp in there seemed about right too. Hope its alright in there in the summer, all those windows and roof lights might make it a bit warm, we'll have to see I guess.
Well done to the climbing works gang, hope it all goes well.
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last night i had this dream:
i was in shef at late evening, and was going to the works. there was a blond guy climbing a yellow holds problem (quite complex to be true), and i went out to a supermarket to buy a lock for my bike. while out i looked up to the sky, saw some clouds and thought that id better not thrash myself at the works in order to try brad pit the following day. i was very happy.
I was in climbingworks yesterday. Oddly I keep thinking I've just spotted Bill Bailey slapping his way up an overhanging arete, but when I look closer it's just some guy with long hair. A place of dreams indeed.
(http://www.telegraph.co.uk/arts/graphics/2006/08/17/btbill.jpg)
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Is it open to the pubic on Saturday? The trials are on and it would be nice to try it out and provide moral support at the same time.
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See The Edge have dropped their price for bouldering:
http://www.sheffieldclimbing.com/indoor/news.html#item39
Could be some interesting price wars on the horizon, although I can't see climbing works needing to follow suit.
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The Edge's "festive special". Funny how it hasn't been that festive in the last 4 years :P
Don't worry Edge, I'll still go in for routing...
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Hope its alright in there in the summer, all those windows and roof lights might make it a bit warm, we'll have to see I guess.
It was fine on sunny days back in Sept, can't believe that was only 3 months ago. Incredible that they got it open in such a short space of time. Well done again to all involved.
ps: Get well soon Sammy! Poor lad is a bit run down after soo much hard work.
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anyone know if the PDQ machine is up and running yet?
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don't worry, Cofe will pay you in.
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Still no PDQ machine. Big up to LloydsTSB ( :wank:) whose idea of free business banking is to do bugger all to help you out starting up - BASTARDS! Soon though, I think is the best we can come up with. Watch this space...
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Don't get them mixed up with the 'wank bank'
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Still no PDQ machine. Big up to LloydsTSB ( :wank:) whose idea of free business banking is to do bugger all to help you out starting up - BASTARDS! Soon though, I think is the best we can come up with. Watch this space...
Natwest seemed to have a similar policy when Jon and I were sorting out the bolt fund, they didnt even bother to type up half of the application form! They're all as bad as each other banks.
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See The Edge have dropped their price for bouldering:
http://www.sheffieldclimbing.com/indoor/news.html#item39
Could be some interesting price wars on the horizon, although I can't see climbing works needing to follow suit.
not surprising really, who in their right mind is going to pay £6.50 any more to boulder in a crampt hot wall, given that seemingly the only attraction of the edge bouldering used to be percy's problems setting, which they ain't got any more. I woulnd't even pay £4 to boulder there. if my budget is £4 then the matrix is twice as big.
On the subject of all banks existing to fuck you over, don't be surprised when in the next few years they all start to charge £25 a month for a current account - it will happen. How the fuck they think they can morally charge you for you lending them your money is beyond me. When it happens i'm buying and old matress to keep all my bananas in, and a briefcase handcuffed to my wrist.
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Anger over lack of PDQ machine has turned Westie into a twisted sort of pixie!...
(http://static.flickr.com/106/316004989_1e9912e10b.jpg?v=0)
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Looks like someone grabbed his Lucky Charms!
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Still no PDQ machine. Big up to LloydsTSB ( :wank:) whose idea of free business banking is to do bugger all to help you out starting up - BASTARDS! Soon though, I think is the best we can come up with. Watch this space...
Percy, check your PMs, I might be able to help.
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On the subject of all banks existing to fuck you over, don't be surprised when in the next few years they all start to charge £25 a month for a current account - it will happen. How the fuck they think they can morally charge you for you lending them your money is beyond me. When it happens i'm buying and old matress to keep all my bananas in, and a briefcase handcuffed to my wrist.
Banks used to charge for current accounts, they still do in the USA from what I can gather, and for things like processing checks. They stopped because they were making so much money on fees, credit cards and loans that offering free current accounts was a good way to entice people in to use the bank. Now that people are claiming unfair charges back and fees are being set lower they need to make their money somewhere else, so yes curent accounts might start having fees with them, 0% interest deals on credit cards might stop, and all the unsecured lending might tighten up a lot.
You're not lending the banks money in a current account any more. They don't borrow money off their current and savings account holders to lend people for loans and mortgages. The use the carry trade for much better margins, and only need a tiny fraction of actual money compared to what they can lend out.
The banks maintain internet banking, telephone banking, switch cards, cash machines, branches, standing orders, direct debits all for you and your current account, and at the minute they give it you for free. If they're not making money out of current accounts, why should they not charge you for them? You can keep your money in a suitcase all you want, they won't care, but you'll still need a current account for your wage, unfortunately. Hopefully if/when that happens they'll offer a complete internet based current account with a lot lower fees.
Sorry about all this being off topic.
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Is it open Saturday?
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fair points above,
however:
you would have thought with the loans and monies coming through a small business acount that it would be sooooooo in the banks interest in the case of the climbing works that they would get the pdq machines in when the works needed them. The revenue lost in the shop must be significant, which a slice of is the banks..
i for one havent bought some new shiny kit from there yet simply cos i dont carry more than say £20 in cash about.....yeah i know i could go to a cashpoint; but the impluse buy is just so wrong - and at the time reals so right ;D
hmmmmmmmm...... shiny......
IMO it's a pretty bad deal for the works here, are the bank stepping outside their contract agreement here?
compo culture strikes again!
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you would have thought with the loans and monies coming through a small business acount that it would be sooooooo in the banks interest in the case of the climbing works that they would get the pdq machines in when the works needed them.
It might be in their interest, but most Banks are huge organisations, which leads to an enduring inability to have their shit together.
Face it, in everyone's experience it's not uncommon for banks to set things up wrong, and then waste days and weeks denying that they've cocked up, then cock things up MORE when they try to fix the problem, then eventually get it right and expect you to be grateful.
They're a right shower of bastards. And I speak from a professional perspective.
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As you say we might have lost out on shop sales but we have saved on PDQ fees. At 34p a tranaction for Switch and with a possible few hundred transactions we have saved maybe £100-£200 in fees - as a new business we don't pay normal charges for 18 months (eg cash handling charges) so we don't have to factor that in at the moment.
Difficult to know if we have lost out but on Sunday I was glad that we had no PDQ, it is much quicker to say £8.50 please and give change than it is to do a PDQ transaction.
To answer another point, yes The Works is open Saturday but the comp wall is out of bounds (for obvious reasons) and in the afternoon the fixed board is out of bounds (it will be the iso area).
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How long before the fixed board and the 20deg. area are ready?
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Cheers Graeme. Will pop over and give it the punter test then and give Z a bit of support
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Tomorrow
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On the subject of all banks existing to fuck you over, don't be surprised when in the next few years they all start to charge £25 a month for a current account - it will happen. How the fuck they think they can morally charge you for you lending them your money is beyond me. When it happens i'm buying and old matress to keep all my bananas in, and a briefcase handcuffed to my wrist.
Banks used to charge for current accounts, they still do in the USA from what I can gather, and for things like processing checks. They stopped because they were making so much money on fees, credit cards and loans that offering free current accounts was a good way to entice people in to use the bank. Now that people are claiming unfair charges back and fees are being set lower they need to make their money somewhere else, so yes curent accounts might start having fees with them, 0% interest deals on credit cards might stop, and all the unsecured lending might tighten up a lot.
You're not lending the banks money in a current account any more. They don't borrow money off their current and savings account holders to lend people for loans and mortgages. The use the carry trade for much better margins, and only need a tiny fraction of actual money compared to what they can lend out.
The banks maintain internet banking, telephone banking, switch cards, cash machines, branches, standing orders, direct debits all for you and your current account, and at the minute they give it you for free. If they're not making money out of current accounts, why should they not charge you for them? You can keep your money in a suitcase all you want, they won't care, but you'll still need a current account for your wage, unfortunately. Hopefully if/when that happens they'll offer a complete internet based current account with a lot lower fees.
Sorry about all this being off topic.
at the end of the day whatever they're doing with money in current accounts (investing it etc) is going to give them a return (they're not in this business out of the goodness of their hearts), and then they may be loaning that return out to borrowers and making a profit on the interest charged, then loaning some of that profit out and making more profit on it ad infinitum. Whatever the long and short of it they make money from the money in accounts, or they wouldn't be paying you interest on it. And its not as if banks are just scraping by, barely making ends meet. Corporations like HSBC and RBS are some of the most profitable on the face of the planet. HSBC make about £12 billion a year in profit, the CEO earns summert like the best part of a mil a year. Call me cynical but if they were charge us for all current accounts then it won't be to pay for Mr Barclay's little jimmy to swim with dolphins before he dies of lukemia, or to enable Mrs LloydsTSB to feed her 6 starving kids, it'll be to buy them all another ivory backscratcher, Cristal and solid platinum dildos. All this and it still takes them 5 days to clear a fucking cheque.
What i'm saying is it wouldn't kill them to keep current accounts free, and to give small businesses starting up a break. for a kickoff they could pay for us all to have a free account for life if they scrap fucking shite annoying TV ads. yes i'm talking to you RBS/halifax....cos we'd all be paying for that shit one way or another.
double sorry for this being off topic
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double sorry for this being off topic
:off: :off: :off: :off: :off:
So you should be, the most positive [happy happy joy joy!] thing to happen in Shef for ages and everyones ranting about bloody banks! Go and start a miserable downer thread some where else. :furious:
Meanwhile, back on topic, so this new wall then.. has anyone mentioned yet that it's the fookin dog bollocks?
:dance1: :beer2: ;D :great: :thumbsup: :bounce: :kiss2:
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Is it really the dogs bollocks? I think not....
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ps: Get well soon Sammy! Poor lad is a bit run down after soo much hard work.
sammy? is there something you're not telling us tobias?
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Corporations like HSBC and RBS are some of the most profitable on the face of the planet. HSBC make about £12 billion a year in profit, the CEO earns summert like the best part of a mil a year.
double sorry for this being off topic
try well over doubling that, stephen green earns about 2.6mil after bonus plus 8.5mil into a pension... some of the senior managers earn a mil.
anyway, back to topic...
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Are there any snaps from first day opening circulating?
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on the climbing works blog.
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Travelled down from Leeds specially last night. Wow. Here is the definitive review(most of which has been said before):
Bad Points:
Comp wall and fixed board closed
Lack of basic problems (due to comp wall and fixed board closed)
Lemmings who seemed intent on throwing themselves underneath me whenever jumping/falling off
Good Points:
Lots of (excellent) problems.
Huge
Friendly staff
Good holds
Campus board
Great location
Fun atmosphere - definitely less cliquey than the other sheff walls seem to me
Comp wall and fixed board closed - Made me want to come back next week
Lack of basic problems (due to comp wall and fixed board closed) - made me work on technique
I can see myself going there a lot over Christmas.
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Great job with the comp problems guys!
Weren't feeling too good today but the problems were amazing, great job guys!
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Any results for the comp anywhere? Didn't get across as I was on wife taxiing duty.
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http://britishclimbingteam.com/results/british_team_trials/british_team_trials_boulder_2006_-_sheffield.html
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Thanks for the info.
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look at uncle in joint 37th ;)
dobbin in at 13th
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I went down the wall again last night and enjoyed the comp problems, nice and burly and not a volume in sight! (on the comp wall).
However im very unsure about a couple of things:
The training Board:
I tried climbing on the training board and to be honest the hold selection seems completely wrong (to me at least). Almost every hold is a strange one, I can't really see the use of foot long sidepulls and big Hueco's on a board like this. Adjusting on holds and hitting the 'good' bit shouldn't be a problem when your traininig, and definately shouldn't get in the way of just bearing down.
I understand that this board is to be aimed at everyone who wishes to train and that your not going to stick a load of blocks of wood (that look like a dog has had a good chew) on your nice wall, but I really do think if it is to be useful for training then a LOT of the holds need changing, i'm not talking about removing all the jugs or the juggier holds as like i said before its surely aimed at all training levels, im talking about the purple ripples etc. It just seems like this board is very similar to the rest of the wall in style?
There also didnt seem to be many basic flat edges (maybe its just me?) everything seemed just a bit too funky with lots of holds paired as thumb catches.
Footholds:
One obvious way of making a problem harder on a board is to use little footholds but this only works if it forces you to do things differently, the sheer amount of screw-on footholds on the board means that doing this is more reminiscent of anything for feet and a lot of them are extremely positive. One way that you can avoid this is by picking one bright colour and putting a rough spread of screw ons on a board (maybe two types? one poor, one a bit more positive?). At the minute this is impossible unless you eliminate almost all of them.
I thought I better write this now as if theres any chance of change its before everyone sets their own classics.
On a positive note there were a lot more pockets on the board this time, nice on Sam.
I hope this doesnt get taken the wrong way as I'm amazed by what you have managed to build in such a short space of time and its quality.
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Just to add my 2p worth. I agree with everything Paul has said.
I was really hoping for a more basic strength orientated training board but there are far too many 'funky' hold and not enough basic crimps and straight pull pockets. If you're going to temp me away from the Foundry it needs to be more basic.
On the plus side the campus board is the dog wotsits :thumbsup:
Overall a superb wall, great atmosphere too.
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Cheers for your feedback. All relevant points have been noted, and we'll see what we can do. Please remember that The Climbing Works is not, and never will be the School or any other 'serious training' venue. Our fixed hold board is only 30 degrees overhanging, and therefore not really steep enough for many anyway (as several folks have already mentioned). We would like the Works to have everything you need to become a better boulderer, and we reckon we're not to far off the mark. Having never felt the need to use a training board, I don't really know what you folks want to pull on, and left much of the setting of this board to people with a lot more experience of this sort of thing than me (Jamie Cassidy, Sam, etc, etc). However, if its too funky for you, we can make it more basic. Its not a problem. Its not like there isn't enough funky climbing elsewhere in the place......
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Cheers Percy... I didn't think i'd get chance to get in before the end of the semester or else I would have talked to you or Sam more directly. As it turned out I ended up there tonight! (unfortunately not climbing... that new orange problem near the crack looks good, the one with the huge sloper at the top! Hopefully i'll get a chance to pop back before the week is out).
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The training Board:
I know i sound like a backwater country bumpkin, but what is a training board? Surely any wall used for training is a training board? Is it like a system board?
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A training board should be basic and allow you to train to failiure.
Chaps - change the pics on your website. In my official role as Sheffield's representative in Leeds and ClimbingWorks plugger I keep showing people the website and all anyone says is - it doesnt look finished! now you are in and its all working, the most current pics are on the blog.
If Mr Heason can do one of them panoramic view things that would be a good introduction to the site?
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Matt has been away for the last week, hence no updates.
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Our fixed hold board is only 30 degrees overhanging, and therefore not really steep enough for many anyway (as several folks have already
30 degrees is steep enough if the handholds and footholds are small enough. This angle is probably more realistic for climbing outside than the school 50 board or other steep boards. Personally i think the Climbing works doesn't (yet) cater for the hardcore climber and thats a bit of a shame considering its the worlds biggest bouldering wall. Don't take this the wrong way as i wish Percy, Graeme and Sam the best of luck with this project and i hope it is very successful. Just wack some wooden crimps and pinches and screw on footholds on the training board and you'll receive my custom :thumbsup:
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look at uncle in joint 37th ;)
dobbin in at 13th
Congrat to all the strong girls and the... strong GIRLS! :thumbsup:
(Look closely at this page http://britishclimbingteam.com/results/british_team_trials/british_team_trials_boulder_2006_-_sheffield.html )
some kind of classic Freudian typo!
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Don't get it. Are you being fooled by a yellow jacket?
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Congrat to all the strong girls and the... strong GIRLS! :thumbsup:
Don't get it. Are you being fooled by a yellow jacket?
Just take it as read.
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what are you talking about? :shrug:
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Female Senior Qualifier Final
Overall First Name Last Name Score Bonus Position Top Attempts Bonus Attempts Position
1 Stewart Watson 94 10 2 = 5 9 5 5 1
2 Dave Barrans 94 10 2 = 4 6 4 5 2
::)
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i'm no strong boy... :(
are you guys suggesting some kinda board like the last incarnation of the Office.. that had the *ten commandmants* problem on it??
If so, yep!! i'd be keen for that sort of thing.. damn hard for me but that's good ( i reckon )
havin said that, there's no way the wall in it's first incarnation would be perfect for all user groups, as has been said above; this is no critisim of the best facility in europe if not the world; i just wonna see it become the definitive place to train anywhere. 30 degrees is fine for me: that's what most of us usually climb on after all.
respect to PaulB for making the constructive comments.. let's help this place be the world class venue it deserves to be.
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Just to stick my two penneth in - Paul I agree also.
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went to the works yesterday, what a great place. the comp wall is awesome. a few more problems on there please! campus board fantastic. training board. hmmmm as paul and dobbin and doyle say, it needs bad holds. lots of them everywhere. if its gonna be labelled a training board thats what you need. people climbing 6b have more than enough to be getting on with elsewhere. as you point out there is a minority who climb hard, but i'd argue the base level in sheff is pretty high, hence the need for small holds and nasty pinches. and yes basically the school, and the office rather than the edge woody should be the style your looking for. sorry for rambling on. did i mention the training wall needed lots of small wooden holds.
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i just wonna see it become the definitive place to train anywhere.
respect to PaulB for making the constructive comments.. let's help this place be the world class venue it deserves to be.
completely agree but as Saltbeef says theres a lot of strongboys in sheff who i'm sure would love to pull down at the works (being such a fantastic venue). I wasn't just talking for myself in my last post. Everyone wants this place to succeed.
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And there are lots of people who would like to get strong. Loads of people are at purple problem standard - many of these people use the campus board, and I'm sure would also be keen to use a training board to improve.
I haven't really seen many people on the training board yet - possibly because there's so much else to play at. But I suspect that were it more basic, more people would use it. And let's face it - it's a training board, it's only going to attract people who want to train in this specific style (not the majority who come to do circuits) so if you can please them, it will be successful.
Some of the holds are really interesting though - maybe you could use these to make (more) funky problems on the comp wall?
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I'm sure part of the problem is that the training wall is currently a blank canvas. Those who are used to training on a wooden board with fifteen years worth of pre-set Ben and Jerry problems aren't used to using their imaginations. They want to just turn up and test themselves against an established benchmark that involves maximum power and minimum skill. There is far more potential on this one board than at the school, but it will take a while to unlock. Some folk just want it all on a plate.
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I think that's the problem - who wants to climb anywhere where the problems haven't been set by Ben and Jerry? Its not even climbing if some other punter sets it. And you can't fucking talk, you only climb in the Peak where *every* problem is set by Ben and Jerry so pipe down.
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I'm sure part of the problem is that the training wall is currently a blank canvas. Those who are used to training on a wooden board with fifteen years worth of pre-set Ben and Jerry problems aren't used to using their imaginations. They want to just turn up and test themselves against an established benchmark that involves maximum power and minimum skill. There is far more potential on this one board than at the school, but it will take a while to unlock. Some folk just want it all on a plate.
I think your just plain wrong here. There are constant editions to the school guide by lots of different people, so much so that Dobbin is re-sorting the problem list, and these problems do get done so its not just a case lack of imagination. Your right that there's crap loads of potential, but not for basic hard training, to put it into context some of the smaller holds on that board are the sames as the smaller ones at the school, there's 20' differnce in angle between the two boards!
....that involves maximum power and minimum skill.
I am yet to find anything that translates better to hard limestone than basic board climbing (some people do actually prefer this to grit weirdness). Didn't 'someone' famous once say something like "at the end of the day it comes down to how hard I can pull?"
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Having only been there a few times now, I'm not an authority on the School, but I agree that there is something special about the 50 degree board in terms of getting strong. Firstly the holds are bad, so you have to pull very hard just to stay on - somthing that is rarely true of less steep boards. Second the holds are all edges or pinches or both - moves often involve hitting a hold, then either pinching very hard to stay on, or catching openhanded then adjusting to a semi crimp. This develops that open-hand/crimp crossover strength that's vital on lime, and very useful on grit. Next the board is so steep that your feet either cut (loading fingers even more, and developing tension) or you have to fight to keep them on (developing tension). Finally, the holds are basic, so that all you fingers load evenly.
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I think Ru's final point is very important......
Loading of the fingers evenly is important to avoid injury, after all training/climbing indoors is pointless if you are going to get injured easily (and how many times have you injured yourself training rather than out on the rock?)
Unfortunately hold manufacturers these days seem to prefer to replicate holds from outside rather than pure training holds....or make what are simply gash, 'funky' holds which I feel increase the chance of injury (i.e. uneven rippled crimps/poor textured finishes)....
Bring back simple, low texture training holds like the S7/pusher flat crimps/pinches, and Dobbin & Ian Fitzpatrick's legendary brown pinches/crimps!.....less chance of injury and improve contact strength due to smooth texture.......
Or then again, why not just give us Wood! ;D
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Bleaustone training stone are one of the few companies making these kind of holds.
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Having only been there a few times now, I'm not an authority on the School, but I agree that there is something special about the 50 degree board in terms of getting strong. Firstly the holds are bad, so you have to pull very hard just to stay on - somthing that is rarely true of less steep boards. Second the holds are all edges or pinches or both - moves often involve hitting a hold, then either pinching very hard to stay on, or catching openhanded then adjusting to a semi crimp. This develops that open-hand/crimp crossover strength that's vital on lime, and very useful on grit. Next the board is so steep that your feet either cut (loading fingers even more, and developing tension) or you have to fight to keep them on (developing tension). Finally, the holds are basic, so that all you fingers load evenly.
Which is PRECISELY what a training board should do.
A very good climber once told me that in the end, all climbing comes down to is being able to pull on something with your fingers, and stand on something. Therefore, if you can pull on smal bad holds and keep your feet on small shit holds then you will be able to do anything. wise man.
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Very true Paul, the pockets and jugs are good, but i'm not sure about the crimps, some of the concave tops of the crimps tend to load the fingers unevenly which you don't get on good old flat wooden crimps!
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(http://www.bleaustone.com/filelib/positive%20crimp.jpg)
Yeah i see what you mean...
But these are all great:
(http://www.bleaustone.com/filelib/30degpock.jpg)(http://www.bleaustone.com/filelib/openpock.jpg)
(http://www.bleaustone.com/filelib/Med%20pinch.jpg)(http://www.bleaustone.com/filelib/sml%20pinch.jpg)
Although you cant beat bansiter and dowl for pinches.
Sam spoke to Ned, Myself and a few others last night about the board and was listening to what we all had to say which pretty much reflects what has been said above, however other people disagree, I believe someone last night said it was 'the best board' for them ever. He offered for us to have a go with him to sort it out which I would have taken him up on if I wasn't leaving on fri for christmas...
(sorry about how bad the spelling and the writing both were in my previous post)
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to find anything that translates better to hard limestone than basic board climbing (some people do actually prefer this to grit weirdness). Didn't 'someone' famous once say something like "at the end of the day it comes down to how hard I can pull?"
Thats got to be the one quote that seems to be taken way out of context more than any other. Either willfully or not.
I believe what ben moon was saying in the context of hard grit was that he had reached the stage where had nothing left to learn about "friction and the subtleties of climbing grit or sandstone or whatever", and that for him personally to progress to the next level it was just about developing more strength and power. I'm pretty sure he was NOT saying that all you need to do to climb hard is to be strong - I don't know why people always use this quote to substantiate such claims! I'm sure none of us are at stage where we have nothing left to learn about "friction and the subtleties of climbing grit or sandstone or whatever".
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At the other end of the scale the "friction and the subtleties of climbing grit or sandstone or whatever" are all that I rely on to get up stuff, as I am as weak as a lamb.
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At the other end of the scale the "friction and the subtleties of climbing grit or sandstone or whatever" are all that I rely on to get up stuff, as I am as weak as a lamb.
In which case theres plenty at the climbing works for you to do and hence the need for a training specific board to complament that!
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Oldfella - You ought to ask Gav to post up on this thread to add a bit of history about the school to put this in some historical context.
When the school was built, IIRC, the angle for the 50 degree board was picked as a result of the angle of the Edgedale Road board which everyone realised was brilliant for body tension as per Ru's explanation below.
The holds on the other hand were simply created out of necessity rather than by design - those involved simply didn't have the resources or cash for lots of bolt ons and wood was/is always better on the skin. Gav Ellis, Nic Sellars, Stuey Cameron, Andy Coish, Paul Hydes and a host of others sat up there for a few days making holds from bannister and dowel. Not Ben and Jerry, they linked what was there and created a lot of the problems later over a number of years. If I recall correctly, it took a good year for the top boys to figure out the 'knack' on the 50 degree board...
(There are also loads of 'good' holds on the school board otherwise I would have never been able to climb there....)
I'm not really sure where I'm going with this except to illustrate that there was more 'accident' than 'design' in the way the school board was put together and I think it would have turned out quite different had the original collective had access to more resources (we wouldn't have sat around for days making wooden holds) and the (questionable in this case) benefit of hindsight.
I've not had the chance to go to the climbing works yet so I'm not making any comparisons... just thought I'd add my rambling two penneth..
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I'm sure part of the problem is that the training wall is currently a blank canvas. Those who are used to training on a wooden board with fifteen years worth of pre-set Ben and Jerry problems aren't used to using their imaginations. They want to just turn up and test themselves against an established benchmark that involves maximum power and minimum skill. There is far more potential on this one board than at the school, but it will take a while to unlock. Some folk just want it all on a plate.
Some folk may struggle cos its currently a blank canvas but this isn't the case for those of us who train a lot. In the school or the den (my board in wales) i mostly train on my own problems, in fact its easy to make up new problems cos these boards are mint. Its good that Sam has been asking around for peoples opinions on the board. Hopefully a happy medium can be found where everyone is happy.
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Just like to add my voice and agree with the idea of simple training holds on the training board. I'm unlikely to use it but I think the principle of simple holds is sound.
As I said before I'd like to see a bit more "pulling" problems to match up with the technical weirdness, and it looked like the comp wall had a few of those so that's good.
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As I said before I'd like to see a bit more "pulling" problems to match up with the technical weirdness, and it looked like the comp wall had a few of those so that's good.
What with the addition of the new pink/orange/tomato-sauce-with-cheese-in circuit, there are now quite a few decent pulling problems on the twenty degree section, left of the training board. The oranges are a good circuit as well, with some really nice fat/phat edges and slopers.
And of course there's all the stuff on the comp wall. It just keeps getting better! Christmas has come early, and the grotto just keeps on giving...
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Yeah the new gently overhanging bit looked good, didn't get that far, was checking out the oranges which is a nice circuit.
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in any sport,
A correct training program follows a a predetermined path to reach a predetermined goal. over a predetermined time frame.
so with this in mind, people who wish to use a training board to improve their climbing or an aspect of it. need a consistent and an uncomplicated board to assess and re-evalute their strengths/climbing and training program.
the school room boards, over the last 15-20 years, provided this perfectly.
to dig deeper into training,
a structured training program which is designed specifically to improve a certain motion/element of that sport. needs an environment where that move can be broken down to its simpliest form.and can be practiced repeatedly with out any variables to effect results.
to perfect technical flaws, and/or to build on strength. to train any given motion you need a uniform playing feild.
now in respect to climbing, if you wish to build on finger strength, the holds ideally, need to be uniform for both hands.
in relation to my opening paragraph, if you're training with a purpose of building finger strength, whether it be crimps, slopes pinches, or isolated fingers [mono's, 2 fingers] the holds really need to be simple, uniform and identical for each hand. and be there all the time, so you can go back to at any time to reassess. (imo i think the holds should not be moved at all, screwed in. this is where wood proves to be better than plastic.]
so that is why the best training holds are 'simple' and 'boring'. campus boards are aperfect example.
The same applies with training for body tension, lock offs.
to train effectively one needs to apply a proper scientific proffessional approach to training. co ordinate a program identify elements you wish to address and put a time period to achieve your goals.
in point, i think if you are going to have a training board you need to take these points into consideration. and more so if you wish to use one effectively. the training board is big enough to accommodate simple holds and the current holds.
thanks for the space to rant.....
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Just to add my 2 penneth to this.
There was something about training on average holds at the School or the Office for all the reasons mentioned elsewhere, that just meant you got much stronger trying the problems. If its true that the money lies in the circuits, then go ahead, there is so much space that surely there's room for a proper old school ( no pun intended) woodie.
For what its worth I've got all the old boards from the house on Edgedale Road where Gav, Patta and god knows who else lived, plus the campus boards from the office.They're just waiting the building of the new superstructure chez Dolly, which may take a back seat cos of the works. Let me know if you want a go on 'em Percy Sam or G
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oldfella, you are talking so much sense you almost earned yourself your first wad point.
Almost.
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At the other end of the scale the "friction and the subtleties of climbing grit or sandstone or whatever" are all that I rely on to get up stuff, as I am as weak as a lamb.
In which case theres plenty at the climbing works for you to do and hence the need for a training specific board to complament that!
I'm sure there is, but it's a bit of a hike for me.
You should have "what are you sad about?" as your tagline btw.
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bollox dolly......
what about the planned woodie you were gonna have the the top of yr garden, all weather and massive and everything??
if this is yr attempt to get free membership (you tight git) by giving away yr heritage ( and my planned wood training) I'll be forced to kill you ;)
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Oldfella - You ought to ask Gav to post up on this thread to add a bit of history about the school to put this in some historical context.
There's a little bit here already http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_School_Room (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_School_Room) ;D
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bollox dolly......
what about the planned woodie you were gonna have the the top of yr garden, all weather and massive and everything??
if this is yr attempt to get free membership (you tight git) by giving away yr heritage ( and my planned wood training) I'll be forced to kill you
I was thinking more of a leasing arrangement until the aforementioned massive woodie entertainment complex was completed
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Went down the works last night awesome venue, apart from all that has been said about the training wall my one complaint would be the matting-jumped off the top of the comp wall and my foot went straight through the joins between the mats spent most of today hobbling around. I know a couple of other people this has happened to, it will only be a matter of time before someone does some serious damage
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Good mat feedback. the big cheeses are aware of the gap in the mats thing and from what I understand are taking steps to have it sorted. The man responsible has already woken up with a severed volume under his pillow. (thanks dave)
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Had my first play down there last night - only on the green circuit but was suitably impressed by the problems that I did - they seemed to have a nice flow to them and one or two made me think and I actually failed on one - oh the horror of it all. :o
No problems with the mats but that was because I was down climbing everything as I am paranoid about f***ing my knee up again.
bluebrad
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i went last thursday week and was so excited that i did 80+ problems.i am finally beginning to recover after thinking i'd developed terminal arthritis.
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oldfella, :bow:
Its so nice to see someone talking sense with regards to training!
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I think he's not going to be happy about the + karma though.
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Amen to that old fella
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Having got back from Aberdeen early because my offshore day trip was cancelled I just spent the afternoon at the works with my neighbour and Gav (dragging him away from his office conveniently located across the road). It was way better than I had expected & just perfect for my standard of climbing. Being able to do circuits indoors is just fab and makes a change from the usual indoor bouldering session... good effort gentlemen.
Also good to see you Oldfella...
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A few new photos up in the December Gallery, oh and Christmas opening times too.
www.climbingworks.com
MattH
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Nice one of Sam and the Lady Mayoress comparing beanies
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Went down on saturday evening for my first visit - I must say I was suitably impressed! The comp wall is definitely the best combo of angles and steepness I've seen, and I was somewhat unpleasantly surprised when I looked down from the top of the right hand end and realised how high up I was!
A sign of its popularity since opening is how scummed up some of the holds are already - in two weeks they seem to have taken more of a beating than holds at other walls would take in a couple of months.
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Went on friday for the first time.
First impressions were that it was very big and really impressive.
I liked the setup a lot, very chilled, babies sat on the masts watching mum and dad climb lots of people, lots of problems but spaced enough so you were never all ontop of one another (the usual problem with bouldering). I was also surprised at how vertical it all was (not a criticism, just you expect a bouldering wall to be overhanging) although I didn't get on the competition wall or the system bit.
Did a bunch of green, blue, brown and red problems that all seemed generally pretty good with a range of styles. Also clearly marked. So thumbs up for that.
Also tried the purple circuit which had some nice problems also.
However I do have some suggestions...
1) The starting holds. As I understand it the starting holds rule is one hand on the hold with the number on and the other hand wherever you want. I can see the idea behind this but there were several occasions (particularly with the purple circuit) where the starts seemed a bit contrived. You would be stood up with one hand up high but the other low on the marked hold just to pull on. Often the marked hold was also the first 'foothold' which added to the un-naturalness of the start. This didn't seem to be a problem on the other circuits so much but was especially noticable on the purple. I think I get the idea behind what you have done, and it is a more interesting solution than just all sit starts or whatever.
2) Again this is a purple circuit thing but all the problems I tried (apart from one) were 'trick' problems. Don't get me wrong it's nice to have technical problems, lord knows I'm not strong enough for power probs but I did reach a point where I just wanted a probelm that was just pulling on holds. Again I like the idea behind having technical problems but I think the balance is a bit out of kilter in the purple circuit. The other circuits seemed like a nice mixture of simple and funky.
3) Final point, and this is just a personal thing really, but the technique required for problems quite often seemed to be flexible hips. Whilst I like technical stuff. this is not my strong suit so was slightly frustrating. Like I say I think this point is more down to me than you but hey-ho.
Anyway it's a great venue and I will be back, one visit isn't enough to do it justice. And the above are not criticisms just a fair reflection of what I thought, but basically I'm well impressed.
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Personally I love the "trick" problems. I think the purple circuit is brilliant - there is plenty of straighforward pulling on the comp walls and the 20deg area, so it's great to also have lots of problems that require really interesting movement, which always makes me happy. For me, there are more than enough purples that I have to pull quite hard on.
Obviously it's all personal preference, but I think it's great that as well as all the steep problems, there are a good number that make you work on movement. The good thing about the works is that there is so much of everything. I've been lots and lots, and there are still problems I haven't even tried.
Also, I think the starting handholds are fine - don't know what the official rules are, and don't really care - they indicate where the problem starts and that's enough for me - I don't bother with lower handholds if it detracts from the problem.
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Was out at Stanage yesterday and I swear I could feel the benefit of the slabby probs on my slab climbing!
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Hey don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of trick problems. Give me balancy wierdness any day. Just that on that particular circuit it seemed to be a slightly unbalanced ratio of wierdy to burlu probs. I didn't try all the probs so it may just have been that I radomly picked all wierdies. As I said I was surprised how vertical it was, but thats not a criticism. What I was trying to say is that they've actually managed to build a wall that can and does appeal to all standards and isn't just a bumpy boys playground with a token selection of jugtastic hauls to keep the masses quiet. And they deserve very high praise for that.
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Quality to see an in-house DJ! Will this be an ongoing arrangement? Look forward to the Real Thing soundtrack mix.
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Agree that the place will need some serious cleaning, the holds are on the verge of getting Matrix-bad (and that's bad). A policy of encouraging brushing would be good.
Also agree that the random weirdo starting hold positions can be a bit annoying - the pink circuit is much better in this as they all have proper sitters :thumbsup:
MMmmm DJ. I've liked the soundtracks there so far.
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I spoke to Sam on the opening party night and apparently there should be open decks on a friday night. :thumbsup:
Real Thing soundtrack if anyone has it all on vinyl.
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open decks is a fantastic idea.
boys, you know how to have fun in climbing.
im envious.
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Wall is ace guys well done, only climbed on the circuits so far as when i last went everything else was closed. The comp wall looks brilliant and problems look fun and hard of course.
One bad thing is your chalk block price is pretty high at £1.50. I normally pay £1 a block at Nevi sport so perhaps that could be lowered just an idea. Great work though keep it up!
David
:great:
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If you can get access to FinalScratch or Serato's Scratch Live equipment from anyone in the vicinity, you could do a Real Thing mix with the mp3s. Which reminds me to head on over to that thread.
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Went down for the first time yesterday after a bit of a epic trying to find it (thanks for the directions 8c) and was well impressed with the quality of the problems, the shapes and variety of the walls and some truely amazing holds. The only downside was how incredibly smeggy some of the holds had become, which spoilt some problems IMHO. Didn't see many people brushing holds, there was one brush on a long pole floating around, but maybe there needs to be more and useage encouraged?
Apart from that gripe, a big :great: to Percy, Sam, Graeme et al.
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Aye, thoroughly enjoyed it. There was so much to throw yourself at, it really did make you feel like a kid in a sweet shop.
It was astounding as Andy mentions to see so much boot rubber already covering the holds. A good sign for things to come though I'm sure!
The atmosphere was excellent and it was great just floating about chatting to people between climbing. Really chuffed for all of you involved to see something so impressive. Keep up the good work.
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I managed to have one short (1.5 hr) session over Christmas and I thought it was indeed wicked. I was suprised that that there were no topping out on a boulder type walls, where there is a font style slopey top to surmount. Seems like an oversight when there is so much room to play around. And the build up of gunge on the holds made it difficult to tell what colour some of the holds were. Persoanlly I prefer the plastic tab style of hold marking, but I have rather less experience that Percy etc..
I really enjoyed having to look long and hard at a problem working out what to do before questing off. Less of a training session and more of a climbing experience.
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Went down for my first visit and was very happy with the styles and variety of climbing to be had there. A big thankyou to all the staff who were polite, friendly and informative (unlike some other walls!) ;D
My only problem would be the use of loose chalk inside, it got very almost 'fog-like' towards the end and I just think its harmful if children and people with respiratory problems (myself included) are using the facility. I think a general concensus on the use of chalk balls should perhaps come into play.
The mats could do with a hoover and the holds need a damn good brushing, but that's easily done!
Overall an awesome venue! I'll definately be making the 2hr journey again soon! :thumbsup:
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Glad you all enjoyed it. Januarys jobs include...
Fixing all the problems with the matting joints
Installation of a huge industrial dust extraction system - no more chalk clouds!
2 new circuits
A couple more 'routes'
New problems on the competition wall
Berghaus bouldering league at the end of the month
Our mats are hoovered every morning (it takes our cleaners two hours to hoover the mats!), but the place has been so busy over the Christmas period the mats get chalky again within about 30 minutes of opening - not that we're complaining!
As regards chalk balls, I believe they make the problem of atmospheric chalk pollution in climbing walls worse. The chalk in chalk balls is very finely ground, so when you're chalk ball user is slapping his chalk ball because it isn't dispensing enough powder (a common problem), all this dust goes straight into the air where it hangs for ages. Loose chalk particles are larger and heavier, so drop straight down to the mat. Loose chalk is a messier option in walls when users aren't careful and spill in everywhere, but it doesn't cause as much airborne pollution as chalk balls. Go figure which substance is worse for wall users!
Chalk ball only policies were started by climbing walls who couldn't be arsed to clean their premises ever day. Surely rather than bullying customers into using a type of chalk product they don't like, you should be allowed to use what you want and the walls should provide better dust extraction. Thats the way we see it, so we'll have a go at implementing our plan! Installation should be completed late January.
Happy New Year! :thumbsup:
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If you could only devise some filtering system to seperate common dust from chalk dust you could recyle the hooverings sell them back to the punters and become the first chalk dust millionaire. Easy really.
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Chalk balls are the work of the devil. happy new year.
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I went the other week and was not disappointed having seen it bigged up so much in this thread.
The circuits work really well and the hanging starts on the volumes were quality!
I thought the vast variety of problems (technique/knack wise) was what set it apart from any other wall I have been to (where the majority are pulling hard problems) and the mantle ledge problems in the centre square area were ace. I just wish I had more time/endurance to have got more done than i did as there was so much to take in! You know you have had a good session when you are aching all over in new places 2 days later :)
Will definitely be getting down when the new problems are set (hopefully before the holds get as black as they were last week)
:great:
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and the mantle ledge problems in the centre square area were ace.
Word. Definitely one of the best features in there.
Percy, glad you're not making any steps towards the despicable chalk-ball only situation. The generally "rule-free" vibe of the Works is one of the contributing factors to its great atmosphere. I've never seen any problem with chalk dust down there, the amount of air-space seems to keep it fresh.
However I would suggest that January's jobs should be more like:
1. Clean holds.
2. Clean holds.
3. Clean holds.
....they really need it, some of them are shockingly bad. And I've found, having given some a heavy scrub, that it makes a hell of a lot of difference hanging them. At the moment it's becoming less training for Font and more training for Stoney...
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However I would suggest that January's jobs should be more like:
1. Clean holds.
2. Clean holds.
3. Clean holds.
....they really need it, some of them are shockingly bad. And I've found, having given some a heavy scrub, that it makes a hell of a lot of difference hanging them. At the moment it's becoming less training for Font and more training for Stoney...
Seconded. Grease is definately the word for a lot of the problems I tried. Which is a pity :(
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Cleaning all the holds insitu would be a massive job. I'd far rather see the time/money put into new prob setting! If you are finding a prob hard due to caked holds, surely the answer is to brush them clean yourself!? To be fair your standard little brush will have no effect, hard bristled floor brushes are about the softest thing that might work. The Foundry always have a wire brush to hand and this obviously works a treat. Some say they damage the friction on bolt on holds, maybe they do, it'd be worth doing a bit of testing perhaps.
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If this dishwasher mullarkey works, perhaps a rotational hold changing system could be implemented? Take off all 'soiled' holds and wash them whilst putting clean holds/problems up. Then again, you wouldn't want to lose the bagsy to being the one who has to stay in all night putting holds through the dishwasher. And can you imagine the size of the fucking dishwasher you'd need to process them through in any significant quantity!?
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You don't need to stick them in a dishwasher, just spray them with a hose. But I think most walls do this anyway when they reset routes/problems. Personally I haven't noticed a big problem with dirty holds - like bonjoy says, if you find a slightly smeggy one, give it a brush.
I'd certainly rather see time put into route-setting, and sorting out the ventilation system - the chalk fog can get really bad at times.
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I noticed more of a problem with rubber on footholds, especially on the harder problems, rather than chalk. Chalk I can brush off, but the rubber wouldn't brush off, and i think only wire brushing or washing would sort that out, but like Bonjoy said, I don't want to start messing up the holds....
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I think boot rubber is what most are referring to. Chalk deposits didn't seem to be a problem.
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I think boot rubber is what most are referring to. Chalk deposits didn't seem to be a problem.
I'm referring to both. Pretty much every problem I'm doing has large and detrimental amounts of both chalk and rubber on - and yes the rubber is the worst, but the chalk is still bad.
And yes Bonjoy is right about not cleaning them in-situ, I wasn't suggesting that specifically. I think, sensibly, there needs to be a combination of regular problem changing AND a very firm encouragement for users to brush holds (which is very rarely happening).
The state it's got into recently, it is possible to clean some holds with very vigorous brushing, but it's impossible to scrub the rubber off, and it's a major hassle cleaning some of the steeper problems.
The lads will probably know this already but it's worth reiterating I think.
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All points are duly noted. The wall is currently recieving a shed-load of visits per day - and i mean a lot!This is great, and I'm glad everybody is enjoying the place. Obviously, with heavy use comes chalky holds and I would be the first to agree that many of the holds are absolutely filthy and due for a wash. New problems with new holds will be set next week, so then you will be able to enjoy the 2 hour window where the holds are reasonalby clean before they get trashed again!
I have cleaned more holds than most people on the planet, having worked as a route setter for over 10 years full time. Its pretty soul destroying to set a stack of problems only for them to be two grades harder and slippery within a few days of them being set due to climbers not brushing their chalk off the holds when they have climbed a problem, although I take it as complimentary that at least the problems are considered good enough to recieve such a high level of use.
So to reiterate the point of all this, when you climb a problem, inside or outside, hard or easy, it is considerate to others to brush your chalk off and leave it like you found it. A Lapis brush is the only thing worth bothering with - most other brushes are vastly inferior, and a wire brush fucks rock and plastic irreperably. If the Foundry lets its users wire brush holds, its no wonder that people might think it would be OK to use one outside!
Cleaning your holds is as much a part of bouldering as spotting, climbing, cleaning your shoes or positioning your mat, and when we teach people how to use The Climbing Works on our induction sessions for new climbers, we will teach them to clean the holds when their done on a problem. If all our users do the same then it makes the problems more enjoyable We're not asking people to clean holds because we can't be arsed to change problems regularly - nothing is further from the truth. Our problems get almost unbelivably chalky after just one day, and it is not possible to re-set the place daily so a bit of common sense and courtesy to others is all that is called for. All boulderers should have a brush, and know how and when to use it. If you ain't got one, pop into our shop for one before you climb and we'll sort you out!
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As regards chalk balls, I believe they make the problem of atmospheric chalk pollution in climbing walls worse. The chalk in chalk balls is very finely ground, so when you're chalk ball user is slapping his chalk ball because it isn't dispensing enough powder (a common problem), all this dust goes straight into the air where it hangs for ages. Loose chalk particles are larger and heavier, so drop straight down to the mat. Loose chalk is a messier option in walls when users aren't careful and spill in everywhere, but it doesn't cause as much airborne pollution as chalk balls. Go figure which substance is worse for wall users!
Chalk ball only policies were started by climbing walls who couldn't be arsed to clean their premises ever day. Surely rather than bullying customers into using a type of chalk product they don't like, you should be allowed to use what you want and the walls should provide better dust extraction. Thats the way we see it, so we'll have a go at implementing our plan! Installation should be completed late January.
Happy New Year! :thumbsup:
couldnt agree more but,
shame your employees were dis ing my son and saying "that why we sell chalkballs" when some of his chalk spilt after sending some adult problem and jumping 3 times his body height to get down this afternoon then perc... >:(
you'll never please all the people all of the time, esp with the numbers you have going through every day... but a spot of PR education would perhaps be wise..
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We probably only had a go at the little fella cos he burnt us off on our own problems! :oops:
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i'm not wingeing.... (actually i am)...it's just if its a free chalk area it's a free chalk area.... an 8 yr old jumpin off the top of the works is the same as us dropping off the top of a 25ft grit edge... there will be a fair possability the fall wont be perfectly controlled.... and chalk will be split.... same goes for the slide I suppose...
perhaps no bags worn on the kids boulders???? just tryin to be helpful...
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I'm down with that. Theres not a lot of point in wearing a chalk bag to boulder - better to leave on the floor out of the way (unless you're traversing - a practise I've heard about, but can't really recommend....it requires stamina!)
My point ultimately is that I'd rather hoover up spilt loose chalk than breathe in nasty fine powder shit from chalk balls. Either way, you can't make a climbing wall without spilling chalk (like the old saying goes...)
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sweet....Sir Richard Dyson should be approached as a sponsor of the wall perhaps?? Or at least Appollo hoovers in woodseats!!
you could also stop selling those "goddamn chalk balls" - as before you are sooo right about the fine dust they disapate; it works poorly on the hands and hangs in the air and acts like a fine scotch mist!!!
i'll dig out some old chalk buckets for my little uns to try to do my bit to stop paediatric spillage ;D
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sweet....Sir Richard Dyson should be approached as a sponsor of the wall perhaps?? Or at least Appollo hoovers in woodseats!!
you could also stop selling those "goddamn chalk balls" - as before you are sooo right about the fine dust they disapate; it works poorly on the hands and hangs in the air and acts like a fine scotch mist!!!
i'll dig out some old chalk buckets for my little uns to try to do my bit to stop paediatric spillage ;D
We stopped selling chalk balls today as we ran out :bounce:
Sorry JJ got dissed but it weren't me - I was the one who cleaned it up after Gemma came looked for a dustpan and brush.
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thanks mate
:kiss1:
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Percy needs to invent Heavy ChalkTM.
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Why would I want to do that? My hands feel heavy enough with normal chalk on 'em. I don't want to get any heavier!
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If you could only devise some filtering system to seperate common dust from chalk dust you could recyle the hooverings sell them back to the punters and become the first chalk dust millionaire.
Some sort of flotation system would be the way. Ordinary dust is probably heavier and will settle out. the remainder is filtered and then pressed into blocks to remove moisture, then dried and resold. Money in the bank.
Is it worth leaving a few Lapis brushes on hook at stategic points to encourage use? They could have a large piece of wood attached to them with chain do discourage people from trying to nick them.
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:goodidea:
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Have now played on the training board a couple of times. There are lots of funky holds, and I like them. Seems like there are so many that you can select basic or wierd to suit your preference. It's a good wall.
But...one thing that is a bit frustrating is the randomness of the footholds. Making up problems with screw ons for feet seems the obvious thing to do - but it takes some time to work out what they are, as some are huge, some are tiny, and they are all different colours. Also, you can find a great move, then discover a big foothold that makes it too easy and ruins the problem.
May have been mentioned before, but a good solution to this would be to have only two colours of footholds covering the whole wall. Say bright yellows for hard problems (tiny edges) and bright reds for easy ones (bigger footholds).
It is a shame that there wasn't also a steeper section at an angle that makes you really fight to stay on (something for the future maybe?) but this wall is still pretty good. Sort the footholds out and it would be even better.
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I'd prefer numbered footholds F1, F2... Alternatively a line at about 50cm from the mat could be drawn, all footholds/screw-ons below this line could be considered 'in' for probs unless otherwise stated, that way avoiding the need to individually label them all or make confusing decisions about what constitutes an 'in' foothold on a prob.
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the footholds on that wall would probably be a bit easier to find if A. there weren't as man of them on (there is such a thing as too much choice), and B. if the wall was painted a plain colour. For my tastes its a bit "busy" at the moment. but then i like the look of bare plywood. Bit of a pisser I know after you've got someone in especially to grafitti it up, but i rate itd be better plain.
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First time down the wall today and I was very impressed with the size of the place and the overwhelming amount of problems. But I thought I could have been "introduced" to the place a bit ie told what grade the diff colour circuits are What types of probs to find where, what the score is with the starts etc. OK I enjoyed finding my way round and Im sure that most the climbers will be more experienced wall users than myself but if the works is looking to encourage new wall users it could do with being a bit more obvious and user friendly. Maybe I just caught them at a bad time.hope this comes over as constructive criticism and not moaning.
Cheers
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There is a topo guide to the place available from the front desk - an instruction manual if you like, telling you where the circuits start, rules, colours, grades and all that stuff. If you weren't offered one when you came in its probably because we had run out of the things again - sorry!
However, from the end of this week (fingers crossed) this topo will be available to download from our website. It will have to wait until then 'cos we're putting two new circuits in tomorrow and Wednesday. Hopefully this should sort out problems such as the one mentioned above. We will still have copies of the topo available from the desk too, but downloading the latest version should ease things a bit, maybe.
New circuits this week are a new easy one, and a replacement for the blue circuit (in lovely Black Revolution holds) straight from the warped and slightly adled minds of the Darwin Weasel and myself.
The comp wall might get a few new goodies too, although a full reset won't happen until the Berghaus bouldering league has happened in a week or two (details on the website - www.climbingworks.com )
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and a replacement for the blue circuit (in lovely Black Revolution holds)
These better be better than the bloody blue holds which are the worst holds I've pulled on in recent years (and that includes the Leeds wall!). Hopefully the blues will get melted down and made into something more hand friendly.
(Would like to point out that the green and brown holds are very nice, the purples too on the few I can do, and indeed the reds which although funky are reasonably friendly and good to climb on).
Looking forward to any new stuff on the comp wall too.
Could you give a shout on here when the Blacks are getting done.
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Should all be ready for you Thursday evening, Sir. Black circuit will replace the blue, for reasons you may have already mentioned, although I couldn't possibly comment.....
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Nice one. it wouldnt hurt though to have a board up saying what grade the colour circuits are especially as you intend to change them.
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These better be better than the bloody blue holds which are the worst holds I've pulled on in recent years (and that includes the Leeds wall!)
those blues certianly are a bit bendcrete. :wank: How about a wood circuit? All just straight bits of pine and shit? it'd be well jackson. Ok you'd have to make 300 wooden holds first, but still.
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Those holds are much worse than bendcrete. much worse.
I actually quite like bendcrete
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I quite like the blue ones, some interesting variety, and holds where it's not obvious first off how it's going to be best to hold them.
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i quite like the pebbles - its the scary pointy lightbolbs that put the fear of god into me - thought i was going to puncture my shoe!
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Them blues are a bit scrote. Well keen on the reds though, some quality setting going on with them too.
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I think the blues are RAD
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Bletch, I want to climb on fruity slopers and angled little crimps, not bloody lightbulbs ???
Them blues are a bit scrote. Well keen on the reds though, some quality setting going on with them too.
Word. Reds are good examples of weird, complex holds that are also hand friendly and pleasant to climb on.
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There is a really good wide variety of holds at the Works and all of them have worked well in different ways, especially the purple and brown holds. The green with pink spots holds are pretty generic, but the blue ones are a real breath of fresh air compared with other simple shapes available at the moment. There may be a few challenging holds in the blue set but most of them are really comfortable, interesting and useful!
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i like the blues, that circuit is good. still more wood holds on the trainining board would be good, i also enjoy the comp wall problems. plenty more basic ones in the 7a-c range please.
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You will be pleased to know that the blue circuit has gone to be replaced by the black circuit and I am glad to report that there were no light bulbs to be seen anywhere!! Tried a few of the problems last night and they seem pretty tasty - the exception being the mantle problem on the slab section but that is due to the fact I am as weak as a a kitten and lack the power to get off the ground on the beastly thing.
bluebrad
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I think the browns are getting changed today and the competition wall is getting reset too. (don't take this as gospel, just what I heard down the wall last night)
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You will be pleased to know that the blue circuit has gone to be replaced by the black circuit and I am glad to report that there were no light bulbs to be seen anywhere!! Tried a few of the problems last night and they seem pretty tasty - the exception being the mantle problem on the slab section but that is due to the fact I am as weak as a a kitten and lack the power to get off the ground on the beastly thing.
Word. How you getting on down there butters? Might be down on Thursday then, get some circuituous action going...
I reckon the blue holds are for people who like climbing on English limestone :thumbsdown:
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Gave myself a serious beasting working the spotty roof problem on the far skip - nearly had it first go but failed to get the move out from the roof to the vertical section cracked and then it turned into a war of attrition but I beat the thing in the end but it has left me feeling like a skip has been dropped on me. ;D
I think will love the black circuit BTW - Dunc will be able to tell you more about it as he was trying to do all 50 problems last night but I think they will be to your liking...
See you Thursday anyway but I might be going down tonight to see if I can do all of the spotty circuit in a visit.... should be fun or more likely the end of me.
bluebrad
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yay! a new circuit!
and black! thereby enabling you to stand on all footholds as viewed from above :P
joking - can't wait to try it!!
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i was at the works yesterday and the new blacks are sweet, much better than the blues. they felt much more physical than the old blues and the new red and blacks to replace the browns are also really good. Are all the circuits up for change or is the resetting spread through the year?
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Redblackswirls are pimp. Nice circuit, good variety. The ones over the box roof and the arch just right are cool. Two things make this circuit good - obvious starting positions, and useful little footholds which reduces the scrabbling that marred some previous problems. Still, some "general" smears on the wall would be preferable in general.
The difficulty is a bit funny - I thought it said at the desk that the problems were ft6a to ft7a, starting easy and getting harder?? Within that spectrum, almost everything felt like ft6a apart from 10 and 37 which felt 7a, and a small few that felt in between...
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God....
now i'm in the process of losing me *spastic foot* i'm gagging to get on these new circuits..... you wouldnt believe how bloody boring 5 weeks of campusing can be!!
5 ft of tape on me foot and some brufen and i'll me on this stuff on sunday :great:
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I reckon the blue holds are for people who like climbing on English limestone
nice one, the blue problems were good, the holds weren't all jugs like nearly all the other circuits with the exception of the reddy/pink efforts. anyway, english limestone is for the discerning punter, look at the harris and ru.
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wasn't meant to be going to the works last night - but the lure of the new problems was irresistible! black and black n red seem awesome ace fun - also the fact that i've been going to the works a few weeks now means i seem to be climbing better (or deluding myself) - yay!!
black n red seem easier than the browns - or is that just me?
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black n red seem easier than the browns - or is that just me?
Nope, definately easier, not much harder than the black. Fiends description seems right on the money, one or two tricky problems and the rest a bit trivial :(
I dont want to sound ungrateful, cos I'm really enjoying the Works, :bow: its just that I really liked the brown circuit (how sad is that ?) and now there seems to be a gap in the grading between red/black and pink.
Perhaps after the browns have been cleaned up they could be reapplied to fill the gap ? :please:
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Can I add my positive karma for the Blues - I was a sceptic turned advocate; initially horrified by the holds and some of the problems I then discovered that yes, it was indeed a Minus Ten/Raven Tor/Rubicon combo circuit. Shiny, awkward and at times painful but ultimately quality.
Last Saturday I did all the Blues again and most of the Browns (apart from the vertical one opposite the coffee machine - nails!) which was like a full day out on the lime and the grit - I was well and truly f*cked on Sunday and had to cheat whilst chuffing on a 6a+ at MCC (although I was 20 mtrs up at the time and agreeing with Bonjoy that doing routes indoors in winter is sh*t).
Bye bye Blues and Browns - I shall miss thee!
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it was indeed a Minus Ten/Raven Tor/Rubicon combo circuit. Shiny, awkward and at times painful
Exactly :thumbsdown:
P.S. The brown opposite reception, there was some trickery with the left arete and high foot I think.
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......I was 20 mtrs up at the time and agreeing with Bonjoy that doing routes indoors in winter is sh*t).
Agreeing with Bonjoy in my head that is... he wasn't like climbing next to me or anything like that...
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it was indeed a Minus Ten/Raven Tor/Rubicon combo circuit. Shiny, awkward and at times painful
Exactly :thumbsdown:
No no no.... This type of climbing is great. It's like having a pissed up fist fight and winning; rough sex vs making love; the left hand path; Kali vs Shiva and this thing.. :devangel:
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Black and red are a little easier than the brown circuit - AT THE MOMENT. Brown was piss easy when me and Ron had just set it and the holds had friction. Within a day the whole circuit was a batter-fest. I would imagine that red and black will go the same way.
All this forgranted, there are some new problems on the comp wall (as of this morning). Not a full reset cos there is a comp in a few weeks, just enough so there's some fresh stuff for you all to fall off.
New hard circuit might occur in the next week or so. Bye bye red circuit and purple circuit, and 'Hello' 50 problem Yellow circuit -grades from 7a to 7c.
There should also be a new brown circuit of 30 problems in the 6b -6c range in the next week or two.
And also a new easy circuit shortly too.
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New hard circuit might occur in the next week or so. Bye bye red circuit and purple circuit, and 'Hello' 50 problem Yellow circuit -grades from 7a to 7c.
Splendid. I'd like to humbly request some really brick hard slabs on tinys and mindbendingly sequency hard roofs on the skips please.
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Oh, and more speed co-ordination problems like the purple opposite the reception please. That one is excellent. (yes, I know you can do it slowly too). Bring on the 2nd gen moves!
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mindbendingly sequency hard roofs on the skips please.
Feet first per chance?
I'd be up for some more hard slabs. The orange problem with the foot swap is genius.
I hope my intended on the comp wall hasn't gone. I was hoping to bag it this afternoon...
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The orange problem with the foot swap is genius.
...and defeated the flash attempt from legendary school room mutant, Stanage projecteer, and Font8b climber, Paul B, from what I remember. So it must be good.
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ohhh the shame of it... ;) Really good problem.
went down last night for the first time after an extended break from training and the place felt plenty hard enough, nice to see some more basic problems appearing on the comp wall and the numbering on the campus board.
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Blacks are suffering a bit already, hand-holds are a bit chalky but fine, but some footholds are getting well polished with the amount of rubber on them, eeek!
Good steady circuit though with a nice variety but consistent level of difficulty (or ease, as it were). Although I only did the first half due to sore skin and general weakness. Ohhh the shame of it...
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did the black circuit yesterday, didn't notice anything too smeggy on it. Felt a lot easier than red/black circuit. a nice, gentle, exceptionally well set circuit.
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That's cos I was brushing every problem as I went on it!
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When I left i saw you vigorously brushing problem 3 on the slab, so I climbed them in the pre-brushed state(and flashed all bar 2- medal please!). Can't believe you resorted to brushing...that's tantamount to chipping in my book. (my book is not a very sensible book).
Really didn't think they were that smeggy though, they felt delightfully clean compared to the purples.
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Was rained off on Saturday and spent the afternoon at the works, first impressions:
when are they going to extend into the building next door, the place was rammed!
The Holds were filthy i didn't need to use any chalk on my hands all afternoon you just had to waft them in the air to get a nice coating. More brushing peeps and less chalking up.
Agree with the comments about some small holds at ground level, some of the problems seemed to involve chest height starting foot holds!
The Illy coffe was lovely :o) more home made cakes and less chocolate bars please?
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Purple circuit and red circuit go this Thursday. New yellow circuit appears friday. 40 problems Font 7a to 7c. To be set by me and the weasel. You have been warned........
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im getting so depressed about the climbing scene here where i live, that yersterday night i found myself planning a trip north just to climb at the works.
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You ever considered a long working holiday over here Nibs?
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you mean in the last five minutes?
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If you have considered it I would stronly suggest you reconsider. Given the choice of going anywhere to do some working but mainly climbing I would not come to England. There are so many bigger and better places, with good weather and vast amounts of rock... Britain might look good from Italy, but let me tell you, Italy looks VERY appealing from over here. Hell, I'd swap places with you!
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i really understand what you mean, but right now the thing i miss the most here is some good, psyching athmosphere.
my very good friend eric, whos the only one ive gone on a road trip with recently besides my g/f, was here for one month and is going back to nyc tomorrow, and i really thank him for being with me climbing during this month more than with his g/f that lives here...
my g/f is deep into the biggest exam of the year, and i dont want to bother her.
others? dunno.
people seem to be reluctant to change their destinations, for something new and unknown, and their habits, for thinking about climbing NOT as something you may want to do on a sunday afternoon after lunch.
i have tons of rock and boulders and projects and new lines in a few hours drive, but if im alone they have no appeal. i would like to feel part of a climbing community, more than someone whos seen as a lonesome fool.
thats why i like the peak more than font. its the athmosphere of sharing something very deeply.
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i have tons of rock and boulders and projects and new lines in a few hours drive, but if im alone they have no appeal. i would like to feel part of a climbing community, more than someone whos seen as a lonesome fool.
I know how you feel brother.
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If you have considered it I would stronly suggest you reconsider.
Is this the equivalent of a Christian spelling it Gdo?
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Nibile; If you want psyche all you have to do is buy me a plane ticket over there in march time and I guarantee psyche! I am happy to go out climbing every day and on rest days seek out amazing projects. Really, I will sacrifice the whole scene over here to be able to climb on amazing rock in the north of italy and switzerland. Besides, I'm already percieved as a lonesome fool!
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:)
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New Yellow circuit has been set - 42 problems from Font 7a to 7c. Dirtier than chimney sweeps jockstrap. You have been warned.....
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New Yellow circuit has been set - 42 problems from Font 7a to 7c. Dirtier than chimney sweeps jockstrap. You have been warned.....
Is that a good thing? :shrug:
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Apparently.......if you like the crimp the yellows are for you!
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aha I see, maybe its time for a change of venue.
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New yellow circuit is good although I initially thought you were mistaken and by crimp you meant small sloper :shrug:, however it does have some very nice crimpy problems, some of which are basic, uncle you should like 29 very nice lock on it, most of the skip problems are basic as well. I doubt 28 will last too long, that sloper was feeling dire already. All in all, a good effort with the new circuit.
Percy, I notice you've added some more basic problems to the comp wall, is there any chance that you could put some more up after the upcoming competition, preferably without using the moon holds? they're grim. Im sure uncle would be up for helping out :whistle:
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i like the yellow problems.
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the jury's out for me on the yellows. some great, others not so good, don't think its as good as the purples on the whole. also some odd starts, stuff that starts low but not low enough to be a proper sitter etc. on the plus side, i'm going to font in 3 days time.
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hmmm wasn't a fan of the purples, it featured a disproportionate amount of slopers. The start of one of the problems is really low and seems to depend on you scumming your knee across the panel.
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New yellow circuit is good although I initially thought you were mistaken and by crimp you meant small sloper :shrug:, however it does have some very nice crimpy problems, some of which are basic, uncle you should like 29 very nice lock on it, most of the skip problems are basic as well. I doubt 28 will last too long, that sloper was feeling dire already. All in all, a good effort with the new circuit.
Percy, I notice you've added some more basic problems to the comp wall, is there any chance that you could put some more up after the upcoming competition, preferably without using the moon holds? they're grim. Im sure uncle would be up for helping out :whistle:
Always! Just in case you haven't seen my credentials...
(http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/5265/seal0ti.gif) (http://imageshack.us)
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Did the 1 to 15 (except the offwidth) of the yellows yesterday. Good set of probs, particulary 4 - heinous slab on pebbles and 7 - very technical vertical thing. Looking forward to tackling the next bunch on tues.
Paul - I'd have thought you'd be a fan of the moon grips. Ideal for basic edgey probs and ting. I rate them. The only holds I take exception to on the comp wall are the horrible blue blob holds with the funny question mark shape on. The rest of that set are ok it's just that one design.
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been flain around on a few yellows, real variety. Great set of problems - with the weather as it is probably the most tried set of font 7 something problems in the Uk at present! the place was rammed when i left on sunday.
still cant do all the red / black swirls mind.. there are few utter stinkers tucked away on that circuit!!
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Glad the new circuit has been well received. If you don't like them - well, there are plenty of other problems to try. The Berghaus bouldering league starts this Friday at 7pm. 3 hours, 25 problems of all grades from font 3 to 7c+. And Percy's 'Special' problem - the first person to dispatch it gets £50 cash. No shit! It costs just the usual entry plus £2 for a scorecard. No scorecard - no climbing on the comp wall. Its as simple as that. See ya there.
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Paul - I'd have thought you'd be a fan of the moon grips. Ideal for basic edgey probs and ting. I rate them. The only holds I take exception to on the comp wall are the horrible blue blob holds with the funny question mark shape on. The rest of that set are ok it's just that one design.
You've got to be joking! they just hurt in all the wrong places. Have you ever spent a session on a moon board, or should I say THE moon board? your fingers will ache like buggery, and not in a good way!
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Percy - any pictures from the first round of your league for us southerners (+ nibs and other non-Sheffield types) to get jealous over?
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Pics on the way, as soon as I've scanned them. Some of us luddites still use film. :o
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Percy, just o say quality venue and quality problems, last weekend was the first time I really enjoyed climbing indoors. Just a shame its over 200 miles round trip!
However, can we have more slopers
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One is enough!
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Hey Climbingworks people, will you be getting a few of these 8a yearbooks that are being distributed to indoor walls?
Looks like the articles might be in google english, but there should be a few nice photos. Would be fun to look at, in between falling off circuits. Only costs the price of postage too -
http://www.8a.nu/shop/store.php?country=GLOBAL#3049
(http://web.8a.nu/(eqbhhpqgila2wh554id41y45)/images/10/deepwater%20(2).jpg)
(http://web.8a.nu/(eqbhhpqgila2wh554id41y45)/images/10/koyamada2jorg%20(2).jpg)
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New air filtering system has made a massive difference.
Nice one!
:goodidea:
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Anyone know what grade range the new purple circuit is?
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It's not very hard. I only did half of them last night but I would say they were only about 6a-6b or summat.
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New Purples are Font 4 to 5+. More new stuff imminant in the next week or two. Comp wall will be reset at the end of next week (for the bouldering league on the 23rd).
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I only did half of them last night but I would say they were only about 6a-6b or summat.
New Purples are Font 4 to 5+.
Bwahaha, percy taking his abstract grading to whole new levels.
Thankfully I don't understand Font grades, particularly the lower grades, anyway, so the confusion kinda cancels out.
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Oh dear. It seems I can't grade flour. :spank: Please ignore my wayward grading in future.
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Get your brain in gear, before you put your mouth in motion fool!
By the way, grading Flour is actually a difficult a process, so don't worry about that...
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You might want to practice what you preach. Last time I checked flour wasn't a proper noun. And there's an a too many in your ramblings.
In my defence it all feels the same under 7c ;)
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And there's an a too many in your ramblings.
That's not grammar, that's just his thick Italian accent...
a difficulta processa, so donna worra abouta dat...
_________
On the subject of grades, Percy sets good problems, but has similar difficulties with flour. The yellow 7a-7c circuit actually starts at around 6a. But hey, it's a good circuit.
In my defence it all feels the same under 7c ;)
I'm the opposite. It all feels the same over 7c...
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Very dirty holds :(
Went down for the first time for a while, after visiting The Foundry and Leeds a bit, and although the problems are still good and the atmosphere still great, it was noticable how filthy the holds are. The purples are fairly recent, right? And grubby. The yellows....yellow and black swirls more like. It's a pity this as it's always detrimental...
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The grubbiness of holds really doesn't bother me atall. I don't fail on a problem indoors and say 'that's cos it was dirty'. It makes me have to pull harder and be more delicate on my feet so I'm happy.
I love rocking onto dirty black polished nubbins- reminds me of font.
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Hi Scouse. Do you find Parisella's Cave a pleasurable experience, by any chance?
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fuck, you can't keep scouse away from the cave. I'll be like "lets pop out to burbage this eveing" and the reply will invariably be "fuck that, i'm gonna drive 2.5 hours to session rock attrocity".
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Fuck, you can't keep Scouse away from the cave. I'll be like "lets pop out and wander around some misty/dank/dripping wet grit crags this evening" and the reply will invariably be "fuck that, I'm gonna drive a mere 2 hours to session a completely dry benchmark classic like Rock Attrocity, or failing that, any one of a whole raft of stunning independent lines in the vicinity.".
You can't fault his logic, now can you?
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I think it's time that Panto got 'Welsh Tourist Board' or something put next to his name! I really can't comment though, I'm off to the Ormes this weekend (weather dependant).
As for the grimey holds Fiend, what do you expect them to do? Stop people climbing on the problems? Change the whole problem set every other day?
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Purple holds went up last week and so the dirtyness is the result of one weeks use. Its not our fault if we're super busy. Invest in a brush and brush the holds is my advice. Use the same ethic for climbing inside as you would outside and its makes everybodies life easier! The green holds are filthy because they've been up for 2 months, and these have now been replaced (today as it happens). Every problem in the works has been replaced since we opened 11 weeks ago, so don't moan on about us not cleaning the bloody holds often enough - it just isn't the case! We have set approx. 450 new problems since December 3rd, and more go up every week. No other wall in the World provides new problems at the rate we do. We're doing our best to keep pace with the very high level of use we're currently getting and appreciate all positive feedback. Writing dirty holds in 2 inch letters is feedback but it sure ain't positive! gET A GRIP, fIEND!
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ditto that - the turnover rate of problem recently has been amazing, particularly on the comp wall. if you were to go just once a week (like i do) theres basically something new every visit. i can't knock that.
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Its not our fault if we're super busy.
Err, yes it is Percy, you went and built such a good wall didn't you, you could have least slacked a bit and made it a bit shit. Tsk. ;)
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I'm not saying you guys suck or blaming or whatever, but the hold are still very dirty and it spoils the experience, simple as that.
Couple of things that could be done:
1. Notices posted regularly around the wall firmly asking all users to brush holds. I brush the holds all the bloody time, but I very rarely see others doing so, apart from the hardcore around the comp wall. More encouragement needed?
2. Have several suitable brushes (chained to pieces of wood emblazoned with "THe Climbing Works" or whatever) lying around for people to use.
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2. Have several suitable brushes (chained to pieces of wood emblazoned with "THe Climbing Works" or whatever) lying around for people to use.
have you not spotted the ones already there?
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being a soft southerner I've only been up once (bloody excellent by the way, puts the walls down here to shame) and people were brushing all the time on the circuits. Fair play people were asking to borrow my brush but that's cool. Don't think you have to big brother people into brushing just a few people setting an example and so the observation he/she brushed then he/she sent will be made and conditioning will follow.
It does amaze me to see people bitching about the works on this thread -honestly some of you don't know quite how good you've got it, if it wasn't for fact that the missus and I both have good jobs down here that we occasionally enjoy I'd move up for this place
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ohh, its all dirty...
get over it!
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being a soft southerner I've only been up once (bloody excellent by the way, puts the walls down here to shame) and people were brushing all the time on the circuits. Fair play people were asking to borrow my brush but that's cool. Don't think you have to big brother people into brushing just a few people setting an example and so the observation he/she brushed then he/she sent will be made and conditioning will follow.
It does amaze me to see people bitching about the works on this thread -honestly some of you don't know quite how good you've got it, if it wasn't for fact that the missus and I both have good jobs down here that we occasionally enjoy I'd move up for this place
exactly...
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Very dirty holds :(
Went down for the first time for a while, after visiting The Foundry and Leeds a bit, and although the problems are still good and the atmosphere still great, it was noticable how filthy the holds are. The purples are fairly recent, right? And grubby. The yellows....yellow and black swirls more like. It's a pity this as it's always detrimental...
Complaining about me pointing out that the holds are dirty and thus detrimental to the problems won't make the holds any cleaner nor the dirt any less detrimental, you know.
As highlighted above, I am full of praise for the good aspects of The Climbing Works (and have been throughout this thread) - ignoring that part of my view isn't helpful either.
Yes it is great. Yes it also has a problem due to overuse. Yes that problem negatively affects the quality. Yes it would be even better if that problem was alleviated. Why do you think I'm pointing this out? To take the piss? To moan for the sake of it? Or because I'd like it improved for the sake of the wall and the users (including myself)?
Dave - you're right I have seen at least one brush on a stick below the comp wall. I have never seen any others around the circuit area.
DrT - your experiences differs from mine, I hardly ever seen anyone brushing the circuit area (and not much on the comp wall either), at the very least an average of our experiences means there's half as much brushing going on as there could be.
As I say I'd just like to see cleaner holds for more enjoyable climbing.
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Dave - you're right I have seen at least one brush on a stick below the comp wall. I have never seen any others around the circuit area.
i've seen a brush round the circuit bit, and near the woddie bit. don't know if its just the same brush i see in different places though.
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New circuits up again, folks. Brown - easy-peasey. Red - font 6b to 7a+ courtesy of a frenetic day of setting yesterday by myself and Mr Whittaker. And a whole comp wall full of hard problems courtesy of me and the weasel. The comp wall problems are left-over from British team training last weekend, so take the format of 14 'ladies' problems (qualifiers, semis and finals standard) and 14 mens problems (the same again). If you want to know how strong you are compared to the team wads, come and have a go. 28 problems from 6b to 'thick' 7c, if you know what I mean.
As a guide, Earl did all the mens problems in a session, only falling off 4 times. Punter... ;)
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Oh, and we currently have at least 3 sets of brush on a stick apparatus on the premises, as we always have done. If you can't find one, just ask one of our staff and they'll find you one. Ask me, and I'll even brush the holds for you!
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the reds rock...
the reds are also rock hard compared to previous graded circuits....
top time.. only got halfway round... and failed on more than a few..
some, it has to said, are a bit heightist....... i'm not too bothered though cos it's very well set indeed.
thanks wrks guys! :great:
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Reds are good....didn't do that many but nice holds and nice variety. Good spread of grades too, seemed to take in the full graded spectrum. Getting grubby already sadly, keep brushing please folks.
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Getting grubby already sadly, keep brushing please folks.
What can we do, reds are less than 2 days old and already dirty. As Fiend says keep brushing.
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It was well busy tonight. Still plenty of space to climb, which is nice. Was rather dusty in the air - the first time I've noticed it to be honest, but others pointed it out.
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Red's are very good. Well done the setters.
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Dusty caused by all that brushing, not doubt ;)
Look folks, here's the deal. The Climbing Works is a nice place to go climbing, so it gets very busy. Luckily its big enough that you always can find a quiet corner to do a bit. However, the down side is that holds will get dirty, and chalk dust will float about. We are doing our best to cope with the popularity of the place, but patience will be rewarded. Since opening, every single problem in the wall has been taken down, cleaned, and a replacement put in its place - in some cases more than once. I reckon we have now set well over 500 new problems in the last 10 weeks. We have also spent £2500 on a bespoke filtration system, the first unit of which is now installed. The second unit will be put in shortly (when we can afford it). The filtration systen works really well, but the building is so big we will need 3 of the things to really kill the dust, so bear with us while we save up in our big piggy bank.
The Climbing Works has been designed and brought to you by 3 chancers who got bored with listening to all our friends and aquiantances saying that 'somebody' ought to build an awesome bouldering centre. We have done it, and we're glad everybody likes it. We are still learning how the place works, but as we identify problems we will attempt to sort them out, and have no qualms about spending money to improve our customers climbing experience - unlike many other walls.
Our business works on the principal that 'It's nice to be nice', and we will do eveything in our power to make sure The Climbing Works give its customers the best bouldering experience you can have inside a building. Bearing in mind the building concerned was an empty shell 6 months ago, we have got to where we are now pretty quickly, so have a little patience while we tidy up the last few clitches!
We know what needs improving, and our customers have pointed all this out to us a long time ago. We ain't stupid, but we're going as fast as we can. So now please stop posting the bleeding obvious, Fiend! :P
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If there is anything left in that big piggy bank of yours then a couple of these could come in very handy
http://www.airtreatment.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_8&products_id=206 (http://www.airtreatment.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_8&products_id=206)
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Cheers James. That was a useful piece of feedback! Take note everybody.... Maybe we should get rid of the piggy bank and go for something larger - a BlueWhaley Bank, perhaps?!?! A dehumidifier could well be in the pipeline - we just need to stop frittering away all our cash on toys for me and Sam (Mr Whittaker's weakness is expensive sound systems and mixers, whilst I myself am more of a power tool fetishist. What ever floats your boat, as my mother would say...)
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That old sound system was broken. Not even the greatest electronic minds in history could work with it - it had to be replaced, and there would be no point in buying a rubbish one. That said - buying the Porsche 911 of mixers was perhaps a bit extravagant.
Whilst on the subject of stuff to spend money on, Can you install a fully licensed bar?
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The Climbing Works has been designed and brought to you by 3 chancers who got bored with listening to all our friends and aquiantances saying that 'somebody' ought to build an awesome bouldering centre. We have done it, and we're glad everybody likes it. We are still learning how the place works, but as we identify problems we will attempt to sort them out, and have no qualms about spending money to improve our customers climbing experience - unlike many other walls.
I only wish more walls were run like this. Some don't seem to give a toss about customers as if they don't matter.
I cannot wait to take my first visit to your wall this weekend :thumbsup:
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good post perc.....
it's a wall......
just a wall.....
but the best indoor climbing the UK has....
lets try to keep the feedback +ve, to make the place better!!!!!!!
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I did mention this earlier, and I haven't been since late Dec on my one and only visit, but why don't you have lots of brushes on poles (a la Boulder UK) lying around the place so people can clean the last few holds on problems. You may already do this in which case a) disregard this post and b) well done for spotting and solving one of the biggest problems (ok, the only problem) I encountered when I was there.
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New trailer for the Works - hope the link works
http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjocOj0dbZ4
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I love the twirls on the campus board...
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Just a quick question ( and this is NOT a critisism merely a question) The comp wall is a bit hardcore at the moment and I know that the Masters comp is scheduled for the 24th, so..... will there be a better spread of grades prior to the masters or will I have to content myself with circuits until april ?
ta!
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Hey Lauren hope you are well.Sam has ask me to let you know that he will be putting up some new and easier problems on the comp wall some time today,hopefully in time for the evening session. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
BIG GARRY.
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Good idea to have some easier ones as well, but I'd like to add that the current set are brilliant - great moves, plus I get spanked everytime and I love it. Good job, whoever set them. Interesting job, whoever graded them. ;)