[GraemeA]

Nice one Matt, how did the show go?

[MattH]

It was a very good show. Tim isn't the most polished lecturer about, but he puts more energy into his shows than anybody else I've ever seen. Really, really inspirational.

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

Well done guys, the site is looking MUCH better.

[Dolly]

Went down to Percy's Palace this morning to drop in my photos and shook hands with Jacky Godoffe who's there problem setting. The place looks stunning, 2 circuits alreay up.
Should I put this in the waddage thread to get some points ?

[Fiend]

Should I put this in the waddage thread to get some points ?

You mean Percy, or Jacky?? 

[Dolly]

LOL er........Jacky

[fatdoc]

dont mean to be thick here:

are these circuits like totally looonng problems that link up ...or tons of graded problems in a similar band of difficulty aka a red circuit at font type of thing??

ta.

[dobbin]

think it means a lot of holds in a circle.

[fatdoc]

ohhhh....
not so good then...... i'm sure it'll be good for fitness etc.. just i had visions of *red* and *black* type circuits, all over various angles of wall, all differing in style - to give a whole body workout with out having to get massivley pumped.

i know there will be 1000s of problems, but having the above deliniated would IMO be a fun way to train and maintain interest - time taken to complete, no falls completion - first one to fall  3 times buys the coffee, 5 falls and yr out etc... etc... you can hear the whispers every few months *new red circuit at the works*..excited bands of boulderers furtively looking around the boards for their new 30 problems

i'm probably getting a bit caried away - but you see my point.

[Bonjoy]

Dobbin is being facetious. The circuits will be just as you imagine as far as I can tell.

[unclesomebody]

From what I understood I don't think circuits will be anything like fatdoc imagines. I would think the circuits will be routes with no rope and no clips. Ie. Huge monster link ups, not one problem after another with rests on the ground (like in font).

Anyway, the wall is looking great, and I would very much like to give you my money and climb there sometime soon. Please ask Mr. Godoffe to set some hard problems (ie. above 8A). It would be amazing if the numerous beasts that have been mentioned to set signature problems could set things up to font 8B+ so there can be lifetime projects for people (and you could lay claim to having an indoor problem in sheffield harder than perky pinky). Merci!

[Somebody's Fool]

I remember Sam saying something about Font style circuits.  I think thats what Jacky Godoffe is doing.  I guess they'll have really long ones like Unclesomebody says as well.  I would say there's room for both.

[Dolly]

They look to me exactly as you describe Fatdoc. P said this morning that 2 were completed. An easier one and one where the grades were between 7a and 7b+.
P showed the start of one of them handily labelled with a 1, then go round the corner, do no. 2 etc etc

[Dr T]

Fatdoc has the right idea, each problem is ten feet or so from the previous one in the circuit (so I hear) so unless you can levitate between problems there's gonna be time on the mats to grow back skin....

[Lauren]

I dont suppose that Percy has coughed up an opening date yet (other than the official one) ? 

[r-man]

..excited bands of boulderers furtively looking around the boards for their new 30 problems

As with most things, it seems the good people at climbingworks are going for that little bit more...

6 graded circuits, each consisting of 50 colour-coded boulder problems, reset every 3 months

Can't wait!

[squeek]

I remember Sam saying something about Font style circuits.  I think thats what Jacky Godoffe is doing.  I guess they'll have really long ones like Unclesomebody says as well.  I would say there's room for both.

I too thought there was going to be both font style circuits and stamina traverses.  Mainly due to the fact it says on the website that it will. 

We aim to provide a number of very long and sustained routes, graded from F6a to F8b.

6 graded circuits, each consisting of 50 colour-coded boulder problems, reset every 3 months

But hey-ho if you guys want to start making things up and debate about it, instead of taking 5 seconds to look it up, don't let me get in the way. 

[fatdoc]

squeek, i wont.

i was just seeking clarity on what people have seen down there recently, and how it's shaping up.

i'll be down there soon, but i just wanted to hear opinion on exactly what's already been set.

It's called a forum - to debate, inform and generally pass the day at work before going training...

chill dude.

[chappers]

yeah chill out!
talking of indoor walls...boulderuk tonight?

[squeek]

I was only joking. 

Went BUK on tue and I'm off to the Mcr comp tomorrow so I'm resting my injury prone fingers.  All new probs downstairs if you haven't been this week.

[chappers]

ok, good luck to you and adam (i assume). saw the problems on monday when a few choice holds were still wet. nice.

[dobbin]

I have just been for another look around, under the guise of 'work', and it looks fab. This wall is just amazing. I think my appalling lack of fitness is about to be a problem. Met Jacky too - awesome.

[SA Chris]

But hey-ho if you guys want to start making things up and debate about it, instead of taking 5 seconds to look it up, don't let me get in the way. 

Never let facts get in the way. It spoils a good argument.

[Paz]

Far be it for me to be worthy of taking the piss out of the great Jacky Godoffe, but when they persuaded him to set problems did it go something like:

"OK, il est indoors, mait il est tres bien, et vous voulez je sand-bag tous les rosbiffs, non?"

"Et je peut arrive a Sheffield par Doncaster et Paris?  Bon."

"Et vous avez du cafe et des croissants acceptablement dans Sheffield.  Hmmm.  "

"Vous avez les decathlon?  Le meme choise de chez mois!  Il est trois minutes!  Mon dieu, I'm there!"

Are his dogs with him in Sheffield - you need him and his dogs for the full proper wad tick don't you?

[Percy B]

Jacky kicked me really hard in the face last night (spotting mishap). Will that make up for his lack of dogs? My circuits consist of a load of individual problems of a similar grade - not a piss boring stam ladder piece of toss. How very dare you all - thinking I'd have you all climbing in circles. If you want that sheizer, make your own up on the fixed hold board. I ain't doing it for you.
Jacky and me are currently engrossed in setting the hardest circuit - nothing harder than 7b+, but nothing easier than 7a, and with 40 problems in all styles, I'll wager that nobody will flash all the problems. In fact, I reckon that it maybe a long while before anybody does all 40 in a session. Ask Dobbin - he sampled the 18 move 7a+ on the comp wall today - I think he liked it.....

I spent an afternoon in my office (Stanage) with Jacky this afternoon - he likes....a lot. Roll on Saturday and bon temps!