[Nibile]

open decks is a fantastic idea.
boys, you know how to have fun in climbing.
im envious.

[monkey boy]

Wall is ace guys well done, only climbed on the circuits so far as when i last went everything else was closed. The comp wall looks brilliant and problems look fun and hard of course.

One bad thing is your chalk block price is pretty high at £1.50. I normally pay £1 a block at Nevi sport so perhaps that could be lowered just an idea. Great work though keep it up!

David
 

[Monolith]

If you can get access to FinalScratch or Serato's Scratch Live equipment from anyone in the vicinity, you could do a Real Thing mix with the mp3s. Which reminds me to head on over to that thread.

[Andy F]

Went down for the first time yesterday after a bit of a epic trying to find it (thanks for the directions 8c) and was well impressed with the quality of the problems, the shapes and variety of the walls and some truely amazing holds. The only downside was how incredibly smeggy some of the holds had become, which spoilt some problems IMHO. Didn't see many people brushing holds, there was one brush on a long pole floating around, but maybe there needs to be more and useage encouraged?

Apart from that gripe, a big  to Percy, Sam, Graeme et al.

[Monolith]

Aye, thoroughly enjoyed it. There was so much to throw yourself at, it really did make you feel like a kid in a sweet shop.
It was astounding as Andy mentions to see so much boot rubber already covering the holds. A good sign for things to come though I'm sure!

The atmosphere was excellent and it was great just floating about chatting to people between climbing. Really chuffed for all of you involved to see something so impressive. Keep up the good work.

[erm, sam]

I managed to have one short (1.5 hr) session over Christmas and I thought it was indeed wicked. I was suprised that that there were no topping out on a boulder type walls, where there is a font style slopey top to surmount. Seems like an oversight when there is so much room to play around. And the build up of gunge on the holds made it difficult to tell what colour some of the holds were. Persoanlly I prefer the plastic tab style of hold marking, but I have rather less experience that Percy etc..
I really enjoyed having to look long and hard at a problem working out what to do before questing off. Less of a training session and more of a climbing experience.

[blur]

Went down for my first visit and was very happy with the styles and variety of climbing to be had there. A big thankyou to all the staff who were polite, friendly and informative (unlike some other walls!) 
My only problem would be the use of loose chalk inside, it got very almost 'fog-like' towards the end and I just think its harmful if children and people with respiratory problems (myself included) are using the facility. I think a general concensus on the use of chalk balls should perhaps come into play. 
The mats could do with a hoover and the holds need a damn good brushing, but that's easily done!
Overall an awesome venue! I'll definately be making the 2hr journey again soon! 

[Percy B]

Glad you all enjoyed it. Januarys jobs include...

Fixing all the problems with the matting joints

Installation of a huge industrial dust extraction system - no more chalk clouds!

2 new circuits

A couple more 'routes'

New problems on the competition wall

Berghaus bouldering league at the end of the month

Our mats are hoovered every morning (it takes our cleaners two hours to hoover the mats!), but the place has been so busy over the Christmas period the mats get chalky again within about 30 minutes of opening - not that we're complaining!

As regards chalk balls, I believe they make the problem of atmospheric chalk pollution in climbing walls worse. The chalk in chalk balls is very finely ground, so when you're chalk ball user is slapping his chalk ball because it isn't dispensing enough powder (a common problem), all this dust goes straight into the air where it hangs for ages. Loose chalk particles are larger and heavier, so drop straight down to the mat. Loose chalk is a messier option in walls when users aren't careful and spill in everywhere, but it doesn't cause as much airborne pollution as chalk balls. Go figure which substance is worse for wall users!

Chalk ball only policies were started by climbing walls who couldn't be arsed to clean their premises ever day. Surely rather than bullying customers into using a type of chalk product they don't like, you should be allowed to use what you want and the walls should provide better dust extraction. Thats the way we see it, so we'll have a go at implementing our plan! Installation should be completed late January.

Happy New Year!

[erm, sam]

If you could only devise some filtering system to seperate common dust from chalk dust you could recyle the hooverings sell them back to the punters and become the first chalk dust millionaire. Easy really.

[dobbin]

Chalk balls are the work of the devil. happy new year.

[Richie Crouch]

I went the other week and was not disappointed having seen it bigged up so much in this thread.

The circuits work really well and the hanging starts on the volumes were quality!

I thought the vast variety of problems (technique/knack wise) was what set it apart from any other wall I have been to (where the majority are pulling hard problems) and the mantle ledge problems in the centre square area were ace. I just wish I had more time/endurance to have got more done than i did as there was so much to take in! You know you have had a good session when you are aching all over in new places 2 days later

Will definitely be getting down when the new problems are set (hopefully before the holds get as black as they were last week)
 

[Fiend]

and the mantle ledge problems in the centre square area were ace.

Word. Definitely one of the best features in there.

Percy, glad you're not making any steps towards the despicable chalk-ball only situation. The generally "rule-free" vibe of the Works is one of the contributing factors to its great atmosphere. I've never seen any problem with chalk dust down there, the amount of air-space seems to keep it fresh.

However I would suggest that January's jobs should be more like:

1. Clean holds.

2. Clean holds.

3. Clean holds.

....they really need it, some of them are shockingly bad. And I've found, having given some a heavy scrub, that it makes a hell of a lot of difference hanging them. At the moment it's becoming less training for Font and more training for Stoney...

[Andy F]

However I would suggest that January's jobs should be more like:

1. Clean holds.

2. Clean holds.

3. Clean holds.

....they really need it, some of them are shockingly bad. And I've found, having given some a heavy scrub, that it makes a hell of a lot of difference hanging them. At the moment it's becoming less training for Font and more training for Stoney...

Seconded. Grease is definately the word for a lot of the problems I tried. Which is a pity 

[Bonjoy]

 Cleaning all the holds insitu would be a massive job. I'd far rather see the time/money put into new prob setting! If you are finding a prob hard due to caked holds, surely the answer is to brush them clean yourself!? To be fair your standard little brush will have no effect, hard bristled floor brushes are about the softest thing that might work. The Foundry always have a wire brush to hand and this obviously works a treat. Some say they damage the friction on bolt on holds, maybe they do, it'd be worth doing a bit of testing perhaps.

[Monolith]

If this dishwasher mullarkey works, perhaps a rotational hold changing system could be implemented? Take off all 'soiled' holds and wash them whilst putting clean holds/problems up. Then again, you wouldn't want to lose the bagsy to being the one who has to stay in all night putting holds through the dishwasher. And can you imagine the size of the fucking dishwasher you'd need to process them through in any significant quantity!?

[r-man]

You don't need to stick them in a dishwasher, just spray them with a hose. But I think most walls do this anyway when they reset routes/problems. Personally I haven't noticed a big problem with dirty holds - like bonjoy says, if you find a slightly smeggy one, give it a brush.

I'd certainly rather see time put into route-setting, and sorting out the ventilation system - the chalk fog can get really bad at times.

[Stubbs]

I noticed more of a problem with rubber on footholds, especially on the harder problems, rather than chalk.  Chalk I can brush off, but the rubber wouldn't brush off, and i think only wire brushing or washing would sort that out, but like Bonjoy said, I don't want to start messing up the holds....

[Monolith]

I think boot rubber is what most are referring to. Chalk deposits didn't seem to be a problem.

[Fiend]

I think boot rubber is what most are referring to. Chalk deposits didn't seem to be a problem.

I'm referring to both. Pretty much every problem I'm doing has large and detrimental amounts of both chalk and rubber on - and yes the rubber is the worst, but the chalk is still bad.

And yes Bonjoy is right about not cleaning them in-situ, I wasn't suggesting that specifically. I think, sensibly, there needs to be a combination of regular problem changing AND a very firm encouragement for users to brush holds (which is very rarely happening).

The state it's got into recently, it is possible to clean some holds with very vigorous brushing, but it's impossible to scrub the rubber off, and it's a major hassle cleaning some of the steeper problems.

The lads will probably know this already but it's worth reiterating I think.

[Percy B]

All points are duly noted. The wall is currently recieving a shed-load of visits per day - and i mean a lot!This is great, and I'm glad everybody is enjoying the place. Obviously, with heavy use comes chalky holds and I would be the first to agree that many of the holds are absolutely filthy and due for a wash. New problems with new holds will be set next week, so then you will be able to enjoy the 2 hour window where the holds are reasonalby clean before they get trashed again!

I have cleaned more holds than most people on the planet, having worked as a route setter for over 10 years full time. Its pretty soul destroying to set a stack of problems only for them to be two grades harder and slippery within a few days of them being set due to climbers not brushing their chalk off the holds when they have climbed a problem, although I take it as complimentary that at least the problems are considered good enough to recieve such a high level of use.

So to reiterate the point of all this, when you climb a problem, inside or outside, hard or easy, it is considerate to others to brush your chalk off and leave it like you found it. A Lapis brush is the only thing worth bothering with - most other brushes are vastly inferior, and a wire brush fucks rock and plastic irreperably. If the Foundry lets its users wire brush holds, its no wonder that people might think it would be OK to use one outside!

Cleaning your holds is as much a part of bouldering as spotting, climbing, cleaning your shoes or positioning your mat, and when we teach people how to use The Climbing Works on our induction sessions for new climbers, we will teach them to clean the holds when their done on a problem. If all our users do the same then it makes the problems more enjoyable We're not asking people to clean holds because we can't be arsed to change problems regularly - nothing is further from the truth. Our problems get almost unbelivably chalky after just one day, and it is not possible to re-set the place daily so a bit of common sense and courtesy to others is all that is called for. All boulderers should have a brush, and know how and when to use it. If you ain't got one, pop into our shop for one before you climb and we'll sort you out!

[fatdoc]

As regards chalk balls, I believe they make the problem of atmospheric chalk pollution in climbing walls worse. The chalk in chalk balls is very finely ground, so when you're chalk ball user is slapping his chalk ball because it isn't dispensing enough powder (a common problem), all this dust goes straight into the air where it hangs for ages. Loose chalk particles are larger and heavier, so drop straight down to the mat. Loose chalk is a messier option in walls when users aren't careful and spill in everywhere, but it doesn't cause as much airborne pollution as chalk balls. Go figure which substance is worse for wall users!

Chalk ball only policies were started by climbing walls who couldn't be arsed to clean their premises ever day. Surely rather than bullying customers into using a type of chalk product they don't like, you should be allowed to use what you want and the walls should provide better dust extraction. Thats the way we see it, so we'll have a go at implementing our plan! Installation should be completed late January.

Happy New Year!

couldnt agree more but,




shame your employees were dis ing my son and saying "that why we sell chalkballs" when some of his chalk spilt after sending some adult problem and jumping 3 times his body height to get down this afternoon then perc...


you'll never please all the people all of the time, esp with the numbers you have going through every day... but a spot of PR education would perhaps be wise..

[Percy B]

We probably only had a go at the little fella cos he burnt us off on our own problems!

[fatdoc]

i'm not wingeing.... (actually i am)...it's just if its a free chalk area it's a free chalk area.... an  8 yr old jumpin off the top of the works is the same as us dropping off the top of a 25ft grit edge... there will be a fair possability the fall wont be perfectly controlled.... and chalk will be split.... same goes for the slide I suppose...

perhaps no bags worn on the kids boulders????  just tryin to be helpful...

[Percy B]

I'm down with that. Theres not a lot of point in wearing a chalk bag to boulder - better to leave on the floor out of the way (unless you're traversing - a practise I've heard about, but can't really recommend....it requires stamina!)

My point ultimately is that I'd rather hoover up spilt loose chalk than breathe in nasty fine powder shit from chalk balls. Either way, you can't make a climbing wall without spilling chalk (like the old saying goes...)

[fatdoc]

sweet....Sir Richard Dyson should be approached as a sponsor of the wall perhaps?? Or at least Appollo hoovers in woodseats!!

you could also stop selling those "goddamn chalk balls" - as before you are sooo right about the fine dust they disapate; it works poorly on the hands and hangs in the air and acts like a fine scotch mist!!!

i'll dig out some old chalk buckets for my little uns to try to do my bit to stop paediatric spillage