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new wall in shef (Read 175427 times)

Dr T

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#375 Re: new wall in shef
November 16, 2006, 10:02:03 pm
percy
we will need photographic (and possible video) evidence of the great man on the grit you know  ;D

Percy B

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#376 Re: new wall in shef
November 19, 2006, 08:34:56 pm
On the blog now. He did very well, suprisingly for such a punter....... oh no, that was me. He loved the grit, as you might expect, and will be back. No big numbers as we were completely destroyed from setting what is known as the 'purple circuit'. Jacky has donated copies of his new Font guide to the first person to complete all 40 problems, the first person to do all 40 in a day (big, big job I reckon!) and another to the first lady to complete problem 37 - a problem Jacky thinks may be impossible for a bird. I'm not so sure....

For all you school-using punters ( ;)) out there, the purple cicuit has 40 problems from 6b to 7c - the majority in the 6c+ to 7b region though. All problems require thought and the ability to climb, rather than brute force and ignorance, so I reckon the guidebooks might be safe for a bit. Feel free to try and prove me wrong (but I am right.)

Rumour has it you've only got another coupla weeks to wait.......

Paul B

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#377 Re: new wall in shef
November 19, 2006, 08:58:00 pm
have you thought of a way in which forgetful people like me can remember which problems they have/havent done? (emphasis on the havent)? With 3 circuits there's going to be loads...
and just out of intrest how are the problems going to be marked up, a system similar to the edge would have to be quite sizeable  ;)

GraemeA

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#378 Re: new wall in shef
November 19, 2006, 09:27:50 pm
Yes

and

of course

(both would be a pain to explain and would have lots more people asking lots more questions so just wait and see!!)

Obi-Wan is lost...

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#379 Re: new wall in shef
November 19, 2006, 11:15:55 pm
For all you school-using punters ( ;)) out there, the purple cicuit has 40 problems from 6b to 7c - the majority in the 6c+ to 7b region though. All problems require thought and the ability to climb, rather than brute force and ignorance, so I reckon the guidebooks might be safe for a bit. Feel free to try and prove me wrong (but I am right.)

As one of the lucky ones who have had a pre-opening taster, I can confirm the purple circuit looks awesome! The two purple probs I've done were both of the utmost quality, but not forgetting the spotty circuit which might be easier but its great fun and a proper workout too!

Good work fellas, bring on the opening day...

fatboySlimfast

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#380 Re: new wall in shef
November 20, 2006, 08:10:09 am
Was in saturday night, purple does look nails! Kids probs look hard enough!!!! Set by Master cort and cort jnr, brought in to gauge difficulty and suprised many by level of hardness needed for 5-8 year olds!
have to say the slide is great!

r-man

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#381 Re: new wall in shef
November 20, 2006, 10:56:58 am
Well, seeing as this place has everything...any chance of a dyno wall, with a selection of starting and finishing holds at different distances? Would be great to have a less random way of improving leapiness than just trying the odd dyno that crops up here and there. Here's hoping...

fatdoc

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#382 Re: new wall in shef
November 20, 2006, 12:34:06 pm
dynos on the purple circuit will keep you happy for many months....

r-man

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#383 Re: new wall in shef
November 20, 2006, 12:45:10 pm
The purple circuit sounds like it will be excellent, but I was more wondering about the possibility of having a place to practice dynos in isolation in the same way that you use woodys to practice other moves. Would be great to have lots close together, so that you could really work on dynoing, and progress to harder and higher holds... It wouldn't have to be a large section of wall, and I'm sure it would be really popular.

squeek

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#384 Re: new wall in shef
November 20, 2006, 01:30:04 pm
Would be great to have lots close together, so that you could really work on dynoing, and progress to harder and higher holds... It wouldn't have to be a large section of wall, and I'm sure it would be really popular.

Oh yeah, very popular for about 2 weeks.  If you want to practice dynos then just make your own up, you'll know which ones you can do and which you can't, then keep trying the ones you can't.  I very much doubt most climbers would use a dnyo only section regularly.  I wouldn't. 

You don't happen to be tall and good at dynos do you?

GraemeA

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#385 Re: new wall in shef
November 20, 2006, 01:31:32 pm
There is a 20 degree board  :whistle:

r-man

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#386 Re: new wall in shef
November 20, 2006, 01:48:12 pm
Oh yeah, very popular for about 2 weeks.  If you want to practice dynos then just make your own up, you'll know which ones you can do and which you can't, then keep trying the ones you can't.  I very much doubt most climbers would use a dnyo only section regularly.  I wouldn't. 

I dunno, I reckon a lot of people would use it. I was only talking of a 2m wide strip of wall, not turning climbing works into dynoworks...  ::)

But hey, I'm sure there will be plenty of dyno potential. Just thought it was worth asking.

Quote
You don't happen to be tall and good at dynos do you?

If only I was taller and better. Can't do anything about the first, but the second...

webbo

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#387 Re: new wall in shef
November 20, 2006, 02:17:25 pm
you'll be asking for a board to hang your lists on next. ;)

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#388 Re: new wall in shef
November 20, 2006, 10:24:08 pm
you'll be asking for a board to hang your lists on next. ;)

They need a special board with bulldog clips screwed into the t-nuts  :P

For all you school-using punters ( ;)) out there, the purple cicuit has 40 problems from 6b to 7c - the majority in the 6c+ to 7b region though.

That English or Font grades?

r-man

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#389 Re: new wall in shef
November 20, 2006, 10:47:55 pm
you'll be asking for a board to hang your lists on next. ;)

They need a special board with bulldog clips screwed into the t-nuts  :P

So spill the beans - what wood did you use and is it easy to move out of the way when you want to watch TV?

Doylo

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#390 Re: new wall in shef
November 21, 2006, 09:59:15 am
That English or Font grades?

All us school punters are cranking english 7c these days Fiend   ;)

dobbin

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#391 Re: new wall in shef
November 21, 2006, 10:11:57 am
In fact, 7c isnt that hard any more and 7b is approaching a rest.

Percy B

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#392 Re: new wall in shef
November 24, 2006, 07:06:51 am
We wil be open for business on Sunday 3rd December. More details on website in the news section.

butters

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#393 Re: new wall in shef
November 24, 2006, 09:44:10 am
We wil be open for business on Sunday 3rd December. More details on website in the news section.

Will certainly be down for a look but won't be playing till the new year due to injury  :(

What grade range are the other circuits set at as the purple circuit would beast the hell out of me even if I was 10 years younger and cranking like a mutant.

bluebrad

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#394 Re: new wall in shef
November 24, 2006, 05:31:56 pm
Went down for a sneaky play yesterday. There 2 hours, did about 30 problems and felt like we had barely scratched the surface, climbing on less than 1/5 of the wall area, and the panels we climbed on looked positively barren of holds. When it's all up and running it's going to be staggeringly big. Some excellent problems set so far on all the circuits.

MattH

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#395 Re: new wall in shef
November 25, 2006, 04:56:23 pm
i'll second that.

Just did a selection of the 3 easiest circuits and i can confirm:
 the quality of the venue, the quality of the problems and basically the whole indoor varied angle / style thing... and a huge number of problems for all abilities on offer. The proof was always going to be in the climbing; and it's awesome.

Not even been on half of it yet either!!!

Percy B

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#396 Re: new wall in shef
November 28, 2006, 08:08:41 pm
Oh immense joy. The first time in my life that I'm happy for a shit weather forecast. Sunday the 9th of December - its going to piss down - neatly coinciding with the opening day of the biggest bouldering wall in the universe. In the immortal words of Lesley Crowther, 'COME ON DOWN!'

andy_e

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#397 Re: new wall in shef
November 28, 2006, 08:10:21 pm
It's good to know that about 50,000 people will turn up and still not have to queue for problems!

Percy B

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#398 Re: new wall in shef
November 28, 2006, 08:16:15 pm
Exactly. 'cos they'll all be too busy drinking the finest Italian coffe, and scoffing quality sarnies prepared by the lovely people at Bregazzis.

andy_e

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#399 Re: new wall in shef
November 28, 2006, 08:17:33 pm
Free food for the opening? Or just very nice food?

 

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