[GraemeA]

sweet....Sir Richard Dyson should be approached as a sponsor of the wall perhaps?? Or at least Appollo hoovers in woodseats!!

you could also stop selling those "goddamn chalk balls" - as before you are sooo right about the fine dust they disapate; it works poorly on the hands and hangs in the air and acts like a fine scotch mist!!!

i'll dig out some old chalk buckets for my little uns to try to do my bit to stop paediatric spillage

We stopped selling chalk balls today as we ran out 

Sorry JJ got dissed but it weren't me - I was the one who cleaned it up after Gemma came looked for a dustpan and brush.

[fatdoc]

thanks mate

 

[Houdini]

Percy needs to invent Heavy ChalkTM.

[Percy B]

Why would I want to do that? My hands feel heavy enough with normal chalk on 'em. I don't want to get any heavier!

[SA Chris]

If you could only devise some filtering system to seperate common dust from chalk dust you could recyle the hooverings sell them back to the punters and become the first chalk dust millionaire.

Some sort of flotation system would be the way. Ordinary dust is probably heavier and will settle out. the remainder is filtered and then pressed into blocks to remove moisture, then dried and resold. Money in the bank.

Is it worth leaving a few Lapis brushes on hook at stategic points to encourage use? They could have a large piece of wood attached to them with chain do discourage people from trying to nick them.

[fatdoc]

 

[r-man]

Have now played on the training board a couple of times. There are lots of funky holds, and I like them. Seems like there are so many that you can select basic or wierd to suit your preference. It's a good wall.

But...one thing that is a bit frustrating is the randomness of the footholds. Making up problems with screw ons for feet seems the obvious thing to do - but it takes some time to work out what they are, as some are huge, some are tiny, and they are all different colours. Also, you can find a great move, then discover a big foothold that makes it too easy and ruins the problem.

May have been mentioned before, but a good solution to this would be to have only two colours of footholds covering the whole wall. Say bright yellows for hard problems (tiny edges) and bright reds for easy ones (bigger footholds).

It is a shame that there wasn't also a steeper section at an angle that makes you really fight to stay on (something for the future maybe?) but this wall is still pretty good. Sort the footholds out and it would be even better.

[Bonjoy]

I'd prefer numbered footholds F1, F2... Alternatively a line at about 50cm from the mat could be drawn, all footholds/screw-ons below this line could be considered 'in' for probs unless otherwise stated, that way avoiding the need to individually label them all or make confusing decisions about what constitutes an 'in' foothold on a prob.

[dave]

the footholds on that wall would probably be a bit easier to find if A. there weren't as man of them on (there is such a thing as too much choice), and B. if the wall was painted a plain colour. For my tastes its a bit "busy" at the moment. but then i like the look of bare plywood. Bit of a pisser I know after you've got someone in especially to grafitti it up, but i rate itd be better plain.

[Shaun]

First time down the wall today and I was very impressed with the size of the place and the overwhelming amount of problems. But I thought I could have been "introduced" to the place a bit ie told what grade the diff colour circuits are What types of probs to find where, what the score is with the starts etc. OK I enjoyed finding my way round and Im sure that most the climbers will be more experienced wall users than myself but if the works is looking to encourage new wall users it could do with being a bit more obvious and user friendly. Maybe I just caught them at a bad time.hope this comes over as constructive criticism and not moaning.
Cheers

[Percy B]

There is a topo guide to the place available from the front desk - an instruction manual if you like, telling you where the circuits start, rules, colours, grades and all that stuff. If you weren't offered one when you came in its probably because we had run out of the things again - sorry!

However, from the end of this week (fingers crossed) this topo will be available to download from our website. It will have to wait until then 'cos we're putting two new circuits in tomorrow and Wednesday. Hopefully this should sort out problems such as the one mentioned above. We will still have copies of the topo available from the desk too, but downloading the latest version should ease things a bit, maybe.

New circuits this week are a new easy one, and a replacement for the blue circuit (in lovely Black Revolution holds) straight from the warped and slightly adled minds of the Darwin Weasel and myself.

The comp wall might get a few new goodies too, although a full reset won't happen until the Berghaus bouldering league has happened in a week or two (details on the website - www.climbingworks.com )

[Fiend]

and a replacement for the blue circuit (in lovely Black Revolution holds)

These better be better than the bloody blue holds which are the worst holds I've pulled on in recent years (and that includes the Leeds wall!). Hopefully the blues will get melted down and made into something more hand friendly.

(Would like to point out that the green and brown holds are very nice, the purples too on the few I can do, and indeed the reds which although funky are reasonably friendly and good to climb on).

Looking forward to any new stuff on the comp wall too.

Could you give a shout on here when the Blacks are getting done.

[Percy B]

Should all be ready for you Thursday evening, Sir. Black circuit will replace the blue, for reasons you may have already mentioned, although I couldn't possibly comment.....

[Shaun]

Nice one. it wouldnt hurt though to have a board up saying what grade the colour circuits are especially as you intend to change them.

[dave]

These better be better than the bloody blue holds which are the worst holds I've pulled on in recent years (and that includes the Leeds wall!)

those blues certianly are a bit bendcrete. How about a wood circuit? All just straight bits of pine and shit? it'd be well jackson. Ok you'd have to make 300 wooden holds first, but still.

[Jim]

Those holds are much worse than bendcrete. much worse.
I actually quite like bendcrete

[Stubbs]

I quite like the blue ones, some interesting variety, and holds where it's not obvious first off how it's going to be best to hold them.

[jfw]

i quite like the pebbles - its the scary pointy lightbolbs that put the fear of god into me - thought i was going to puncture my shoe!

[Scouse D]

Them blues are a bit scrote. Well keen on the reds though, some quality setting going on with them too.

[account_inactive]

I think the blues are RAD

[Fiend]

Bletch, I want to climb on fruity slopers and angled little crimps, not bloody lightbulbs  ???

Them blues are a bit scrote. Well keen on the reds though, some quality setting going on with them too.

Word. Reds are good examples of weird, complex holds that are also hand friendly and pleasant to climb on.

[Red]

There is a really good wide variety of holds at the Works and all of them have worked well in different ways, especially the purple and brown holds. The green with pink spots holds are pretty generic, but the blue ones are a real breath of fresh air compared with other simple shapes available at the moment. There may be a few challenging holds in the blue set but most of them are really comfortable, interesting and useful!

[saltbeef]

i like the blues, that circuit is good. still more wood holds on the trainining board would be good, i also enjoy the comp wall problems. plenty more basic ones in the 7a-c range please.

[butters]

You will be pleased to know that the blue circuit has gone to be replaced by the black circuit and I am glad to report that there were no light bulbs to be seen anywhere!! Tried a few of the problems last night and they seem pretty tasty - the exception being the mantle problem on the slab section but that is due to the fact I am as weak as a a kitten and lack the power to get off the ground on the beastly thing.

bluebrad

[mowern]

I think the browns are getting changed today and the competition wall is getting reset too. (don't take this as gospel, just what I heard down the wall last night)