[Idol eyes]

What about the Boulder in between RHS/Cratcliffe, and Stanton Moor, that has some Ard moves, no? whats it called again???

[Johnny Brown]

The Andle stone? He'll have that.

[cofe]

Never heard of it. Assuming you aren't shitting me, what are the details?

it's on a boulder near hallamshire golf course. SS up a wall with some sharp crimps that require pain 'tolerance'.

[Bonjoy]

I remember now!

[Idol eyes]

The Andle Stone,,, what joy!, tell BoyToy that the name of my unrepeated 3 *** highball boulder problem is... Spook, and its "Ard" 6B, or 7A to Eurocentrics.
Or V6.

[Bonjoy]

Cheers yoot. Is that the wall left of the sharp arete?

[Johnny Brown]

yeah, the one round to the left from the rungs with the breaks and the heightist topout

[Mark Lloyd]

That's what i'm talking about!

Has anyone done the two B7s at Carrhead Rocks mentioned in PBG? Grade?

Done the left hand one afterbirth ? many years ago may be 7a, the right hand version seemed a fair
bit harder I never managed that.
You'll have to pay a visit, was a chilled out venue after work on a summers evening but conditions
were not optimal then.

[r-man]

You got this one?

Pebble Mill Stem, 7b, FA Andy Sainsbury
High right to left traverse of the pebble mill wall, with feet on the PMT handholds. Finish up the arete problem.

Much better than PMT, and definitely a new line, rather than an eliminate. Andy beat me to the FA. I would have called it Bridge Over Pebbled Wander. Maybe it's a good job he beat me. ...Better than PMT would have been a good name too.

[r-man]

Just asked Polish Dave if he knew of owt.

He says he did the left arete of Boyager with a big leap for the jug, sometime in 2000. He thought 7b/+ at the time.
He also did a couple of other problems on a steep boulder near there. One going up left and one up right. He can't remember the grades, but they might be 7's.

At Eagle Tor, the arete left of No Mercy he says is possibly 7a from a sitter, but quite reachy. Dave didn't top it out as Kristian Klemmow had been working it, so he didn't want to steal it. But Kristian didnt manage it, so I'd be surprised if it was 7a.

He also expressed confusion at the description of the problem left of Mona. Guidebook says "from low finger dishes campus up the wall to the left". Dave remembers trying a sitter from two crimps to hit a break. Ths was a few metres left of Mona. Possibly a different problem than the one in the guide? Anyway, this was also Kristian's project, but Dave doesn't think he ever did it. Don't think Dave did it either.

[Bonjoy]

Cheers r-man. Have already got the arete left of No Mercy on the list (assuming we are thinking of the same thing), although not from sitting and 7a+. It is very reach dependant and right on my limit which is my excuse for the higher grade. I'm surprised he thought 7a from sitting.

[Ru]

He also expressed confusion at the description of the problem left of Mona. Guidebook says "from low finger dishes campus up the wall to the left". Dave remembers trying a sitter from two crimps to hit a break. Ths was a few metres left of Mona. Possibly a different problem than the one in the guide? Anyway, this was also Kristian's project, but Dave doesn't think he ever did it. Don't think Dave did it either.

This is the same thing. The crimps are the "low finger dishes" I describe. The break is quite thin and is basically just another crimp. I did it by pulling on from sitting and campussing footless to the break, hence the description. I was first shown it by Percy, who described it as Kristian's project. I did it quite quickly, but also didn't top out as I had only been shown it on the basis that it was a project. I went back afterwards and did the full thing, so if Kristian never completed it then I probably did the FA. Although I thought it was 7c when I did it, it might be quite hard - I was good at campussing up small crimps back then and didn't have much grading knowledge. However, it's now about 6 years ago so I can't remember.

[mark]

Have you got the problems on the Sheepfold buttress under Higgar?

[r-man]

Dave just sent me details of some other stuff he remembered:

- at White edge 
White Lightning
7b
Dawid Skoczylas, Ian Farrar
Winter 06/07

The roof from behind: far right sit start then traverse to left, then get into roof – a few moves to reach starting holds of diamond white left hand and follow it to the top. All in all a great problem and quite a line.

- at Hampers hang.
Co ty nie powiesz
7b/7b+
Dawid Skoczylas

On page 130 [of Ru’s guide] on the left hand side is a small roof. It starts from sit and hits the middle with a long reach at the end - careful not to hit the block opposite with your feet as you swing from uderneath the roof. Very interesting bloc – you use a palm to get established in the roof, then use it for undercut or sidepull to reach with other hand the round end of the roof. Then hold the swing and a few moves upwards to finish.

Zaff(it was his old project) was spotting me and Alex Etkinson took some pics. Was just a few months before Grimer's Stanage guide came out.

- at Burbage North (this is the one mentioned earlier)
Lefthand Ride
7b/7b+
Dawid Skoczylas

[grimer]

Alex sent me the pics of the Hampers  Hang problem. I never got any details of it, and when I saw I thought it was Shatner's Bassoon.

[Bonjoy]

Mark - Didn't realize there was any 7s there. Saw some stuff you did in an old thread but I think you gave it 6c+.

Co ty nie powiesz
7b/7b+
Dawid Skoczylas

On page 130 [of Ru’s guide] on the left hand side is a small roof. It starts from sit and hits the middle with a long reach at the end - careful not to hit the block opposite with your feet as you swing from uderneath the roof. Very interesting bloc – you use a palm to get established in the roof, then use it for undercut or sidepull to reach with other hand the round end of the roof. Then hold the swing and a few moves upwards to finish.

This is the same as Shatner's Bassoon (see Stanage guide). We (me an Kim T)must have found an easier sequence as I graded it 7a. Seem to remember a bomber heel-toe and using the side-pull as a gaston. Not bad, but spoilled a bit by the crux being not hitting the block behind you when you release feet.

[Idol eyes]

Are you aware of Primal light, the traverse of the cave rt of Rollin Pat, 7A.com

[Bonjoy]

I had got something down, a diagonal prob starting on the right side of Rollin Pat and going up and right. Didn't have a grade for it. Is that English 7a, it can't be as easy as font 7a surely?

[Paul B]

I spoke to you about this a while ago Jon I think you said at the time that the arete formed by rollin pat was used for the left hand and the obvious sidepull edge thing for your right (am I getting this correct I could be confused?), I couldn't span between the arete and the hold so ended up doing a big hard slap after some subtle climbing to get into the correct position, the boulder behind needed a mat to stop you braining yourself on failure. It's not 7a that way (if you're my height I can't see it going the other way).

[Bonjoy]

That's a different problem again, My Lemon, Kim gave this 7b+ but I think 7c more likely for average height. Pat's on about something starting at the same point but going right.

[Paul B]

interesting, finishing where exactly? (out of interest)

I reckon your guess of 7c is probably quite accurate for 'My Lemon', it's a hard move.

[r-man]

Cheers r-man. Have already got the arete left of No Mercy on the list (assuming we are thinking of the same thing), although not from sitting and 7a+. It is very reach dependant and right on my limit which is my excuse for the higher grade. I'm surprised he thought 7a from sitting.

I double-checked and he did do it from sitting. When Dave said it was reachy though, he meant for other people. So if it's a reach problem, take 7a with a pinch of salt (one offered to you by a large arm extended from impossibly far away).

[r-man]

Maybe you've got these already, but...

Burbage West (guidebook refs "Peak Bouldering - Fax09", Gritstone)


3a PB   
Eastworld to Westworld 7a+
Edd Klimas , Jerome Foster   26/Jun/05
From a sit down start on the grass by the nose of a flat boulder right of the arete pull up and traverse the upper of two low breaks finishing on a finger slot left of westworld.(also has been done with a small extension far right of the flat boulder just above a hollow in the ground using a series of heel hooks and toe hooks,easier for small climbers).

8a PB
Parallel Lines 7a
Edd Klimas, Jerome Foster   25/Sep/05
From a sit-down start right in the corner beneath the roof of the nose,pull up off the obvious starting jug into a small crimp where the roof joins the wall( big roof undercut not allowed at this grade ). Traverse the break on crimps left round the arete and follow the centre break line on slopes and crimps to the left arete, step up and traverse right along the upper break on more slopes and crimps to the nose. Mantle the nose and top out to finish. (no mantle, no tick).

[Bonjoy]

That second one in particular is pretty 'concept'!

On EtW when it say finish at slot left of westworld does this mean jump off or top-out, any idea?

[dave]

Mark - Didn't realize there was any 7s there. Saw some stuff you did in an old thread but I think you gave it 6c+.

Co ty nie powiesz
7b/7b+
Dawid Skoczylas

On page 130 [of Ru’s guide] on the left hand side is a small roof. It starts from sit and hits the middle with a long reach at the end - careful not to hit the block opposite with your feet as you swing from uderneath the roof. Very interesting bloc – you use a palm to get established in the roof, then use it for undercut or sidepull to reach with other hand the round end of the roof. Then hold the swing and a few moves upwards to finish.

This is the same as Shatner's Bassoon (see Stanage guide). We (me an Kim T)must have found an easier sequence as I graded it 7a. Seem to remember a bomber heel-toe and using the side-pull as a gaston. Not bad, but spoilled a bit by the crux being not hitting the block behind you when you release feet.

me and banks (and scouse?) did what we thought was shatners which started in the back corner, traversed the break to the left arete then spanned out to the flared crack at the lip of the roof. is this not shatners then? i'm confused.co.ck.