[Johnny Brown]

5.   Sweet Thing. Any ascents since chipping? Grade?

Mick Adams, no harder if not easier but poorer? its on here somewhere..

7.   Dawes Scoop on the Cratcliffe cragtop boulders. Has it been done from SS? Grade

?

Well its trivial from stood so the dawes association and several guides would suggst yes. I think i've done it but my memory is poor. squirmy 7b?

8.   Bransby’s direct start to Bootboys/Boothill. Name?

Three hundred pounds of musclin' man. 7c+

9.   Someone did a new short wall Problem at Eagle Tor on the back of a slab behind Brad’s arête. Name, grade?
10.   Eagle Tor again. Pockety SS thing left of Boeing. Name, grade?
11.   Justin’s SS crack thing at Eagle Tor. Name, grade?

18.   Business Lunch (wall left of Sole Power, same height better landing). Anyone done it? What bouldering grade?

Pete Robbins. Desperate. Suffice to say its harder than sole power and crux is higher. 7c but at the top end

20.   The direct start to Above And Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier up the arête. Grade?

7a/7a+ ?(stock answer. ono)

21.   SS to Westworld. Grade?

Lord spare us from this drivel. It shouldn't get an upgrade if only to discourage this kind of behaviour.

23.   Harry’s Hole. Grade?

7a+? What does it get in Burbage & beyond? Terrible landing.

25.   Born Snappy. Climbed in present state? Grade?

I daresay its doable at 7b+/ 7c, if you can reach.

27.   Big Air, done with pads and fallen off so can be considered a bolder prob yes/no? Font grade?

indeed. Not a 7. 6b? Easier and similar scare factor than toit de chien...

28.   Strict direct start to Shock Horror Slab. Font grade?

Ie without pocket on right. Not so bad, just blind - 7a, poss 7a+

30.   Faze Action. Grade since pebble broke?

Couldn't do it t'other day, but then I've failed with pebble too. 7b minimum

[cofe]

harry's hole is V5 E2 6b in burbage guide. not done it.

kim has done the joe's slab; sure he could offer a grade.

sweet thing should be retired from active service.

[Johnny Brown]

Joe's slab.

The traverse with feet on change on angle is not as trivial as it looks, especially as smearing on quarrid change in angle rock at a head height is intimidating due to shinning potential. May be much easier for the tall though. The low trav strikes me as inferior but then low travs usually do.

Right hand prob - a tight line eliminating big holds. probably not a 7 - 6c?

Left-hand prob - this goes up the gap between the left arete and the mono-seam prob up the centre. I think its hard, perhaps 7b+. Basically involves mantelling the left-handmost poor crimps.

Just to clarify - the right-hand prob I'm on about above is the one right of joe's slab. The two left of Joe's I've called the mono-seam prob and the left-hand prob.

[Bonjoy]

For the moment I'm trying to include everything, no matter how log/trivial/trashed. The list can get whittled down later if needed.

[dave]

if you want to get everything in, make sure you've got the problem in the cave at RHS, starts as for the problem out fo the back to the blobs, but goes up to a crimp on the left lip and slaps for the fninshing jug - basically you're eliminating the right hand edge of the cave. its very good, probably 7a+.

[Andy B]

For the moment I'm trying to include everything, no matter how log/trivial/trashed. The list can get whittled down later if needed.

What is worthless to one person can be very worthwhile for another, and if more problems (of any quality) are widely known about, they should ease the pressure on disintegrating classics a bit.

[r-man]

if you want to get everything in, make sure you've got the problem in the cave at RHS, starts as for the problem out fo the back to the blobs, but goes up to a crimp on the left lip and slaps for the fninshing jug - basically you're eliminating the right hand edge of the cave. its very good, probably 7a+.

Remember seeing that on a vid. Here it is, at 1:57

[dave]

nice - lets also make it clear in the list that its bad form to use the incut chip on the lip of the normal cave problem.

another problem (and to seem no doubt hyocritical given what i've just written above) - breakfast arete, climb it till you've got RH on the first good seam on the left of the arete as a backhand, clamp feet round the arete and go round left, aiming for those massive old chips on the face. nice problem and probably worth a 7.

[Andy B]

nice - lets also make it clear in the list that its bad form to use the incut chip on the lip of the normal cave problem.

Nah. why make it into an eliminate when it doesn't need to be one to be a good problem.

[dave]

when you've got all those lovely natural shapes (those pods and blobs are pretty unique) and slopers its just a shame to use a fucking chipped incut, especially when its no harder to use the natural stuff. its probably a good problem with the chip, but a great problem without.

[Stubbs]

Yeah a good warmup eh Andy? 

[Rocketman Rob Smith]

I've done that weird thing at Bell hagg but it was years ago, only took a few goes, not very hard and a little pointless. It was nowhere near as hard as it was graded but wouldn't like to guess a grade as really can't remember but think B10 was way off.  Sorry I guess that doesn't help much

[Bonjoy]

On another note, how hard is the extension to Jerry's arete at rhs? Starts on the jug to the right and traverses left round the arete to finish as for the standup.

Yeah, bottom end 7b+. But it doesn't use the jug on the arete at this grade. Good problem

[Bonjoy]

1.   Old problem from PBG – Traverse on the Bus Stop Mantel block – anyone done it? Grade?
2.   SS prob right of Quine. Grade?
3.   Slap thing left of Jerry’s Arete. Name, grade?
4.   SS in roof then up scoop/groove on the left wall of RHS cave. Grade?
5.   Sweet Thing. Any ascents since chipping? Grade?
6.   5m approx right of Razor Roof is a low roof with a SS prob starting on a pinch and topping out with crozzly edges. Grade?
7.   Dawes Scoop on the Cratcliffe cragtop boulders. Has it been done from SS? Grade?
8.   Bransby’s direct start to Bootboys/Boothill. Name?
9.   Someone did a new short wall Problem at Eagle Tor on the back of a slab behind Brad’s arête. Name, grade?
10.   Eagle Tor again. Pockety SS thing left of Boeing. Name, grade?
11.   Justin’s SS crack thing at Eagle Tor. Name, grade?
12.   I vaguely recall that the arête below Gaia has been bouldered out on it’s right side. Name, grade?
13.   Two probs listed in BMC script for Birchen – Chasing The Dragon 7c/+ and Mermaid – 7c. Anyone know who did them or can confirm grade??
14.   The full circular link-up/traverse of Mark’s Roof. Grade?
15.   Has the Veale Thing been climbed on it’s right side? Name, grade?
16.   On the right side of Tody’s Playground there is one hardish problem (might be eliminate). Grade?
17.   On the left side of Joe’s Slab (Froggatt) between Joe’s Original and Joe’s arête, there are two probs/eliminates. The right hand one is about 7a. Anyone done the left one?? Grade, description?
18.   Business Lunch (wall left of Sole Power, same height better landing). Anyone done it? What bouldering grade?
19.   Did r-man do a prob at Lawrencefield about a year ago (posted a youtube vid on UKB)? Name grade?
20.   The direct start to Above And Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier up the arête. Grade?
21.   SS to Westworld. Grade?
22.   Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
23.   Harry’s Hole. Grade?
24.   Extended Rim Traverse and SS arête on Rim boulder Stanage far right. Grades?
25.   Born Snappy. Climbed in present state? Grade?
26.   Bentley’s Gonna Sort You Out? Grade since pebble broke?
27.   Big Air, done with pads and fallen off so can be considered a bolder prob yes/no? Font grade?
28.   Strict direct start to Shock Horror Slab. Font grade?
29.   Si Weill did a new prob up the gully behind Low Rider. Name, grade?
30.   Faze Action. Grade since pebble broke?
31.         As Dave says, does Joe's Slab traverse go with hands or feet at the change of angle, or have both been done. What are the grades either way?
32. Cave Creation at Bell Hagg (B10 in PBG). Anyone done, grade?

 Cheers a million
 

Not bad, getting there. I've found a whole load more mysteries in the meantime, but they'll have to wait till monday.

[Andy B]

I agree that it would be better if the chip wasn't there but, as you say, it is still a good problem. I can think of lots of problems that would be better if they were slightly different, but to add rules to problems that are already good is really just a bit of fun for those who like to make up eliminates.

It's a good problem with the chip and a needless eliminate without (which can still be fun, but is not the main problem really).

Yeah a good warmup eh Andy? 

Compared to Grizzley Arete this was very much a warm up!

[Bonjoy]

 Anyone done McThud? Justin Crichlow's sit start offwidth crack thing at Eagle Tor, given V9.

[Somebody's Fool]

The problem left of Jerry's Arete at RHS is more realistically 7b.  It's OK in good nick, with both moves being pretty brown.

Also for the new BMC guide, I'm only describing two problems in the cave.  The thing dave describes because it's the best thing there and not really eliminate, just a 'tight line', to use the parlance of our times.  And the arete using everything.

Feedback/objections welcomed etc.

[Somebody's Fool]

Anyone done McThud? Justin Crichlow's sit start offwidth crack thing at Eagle Tor, given V9.

Have you tried asking round the office?

That's if, of course, you mean this:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,182.0.html

[Andy B]

Also for the new BMC guide, I'm only describing two problems in the cave.  The thing dave describes because it's the best thing there and not really eliminate, just a 'tight line', to use the parlance of our times.  And the arete using everything.

Feedback/objections welcomed etc.

The true arete of the cave (to the right of the 7a) is a good problem at about V4.

[Steamboat Stello]

20.   The direct start to Above And Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier up the arête. Grade?

7a/7a+ ?(stock answer. ono)



Direct up the arete seems miles harder than traversing in from the left on this prob to me. Can't be 7a or I'm doing something perversely wrong. In my tiny world I'd like it to be 7b! 

[Dolph]

7.   Dawes Scoop on the Cratcliffe cragtop boulders. Has it been done from SS? Grade?

I've climbed this a few times in the past and think Andy Jennings has done it as well Its a fustrating but enjoyable squirm up on a scary heel hook which then makes the top harder. I'd say i agree with the 7b mentioned on here.

25.   Born Snappy. Climbed in present state? Grade?
I can make the reach on this and have climbed it a couple of times i'd say 7b+ is fair (if you can reach)

[Kim]

Joe's slab.

The traverse with feet on change on angle is not as trivial as it looks, especially as smearing on quarrid change in angle rock at a head height is intimidating due to shinning potential. May be much easier for the tall though. The low trav strikes me as inferior but then low travs usually do.

Right hand prob - a tight line eliminating big holds. probably not a 7 - 6c?

Left-hand prob - this goes up the gap between the left arete and the mono-seam prob up the centre. I think its hard, perhaps 7b+. Basically involves mantelling the left-handmost poor crimps.

Just to clarify - the right-hand prob I'm on about above is the one right of joe's slab. The two left of Joe's I've called the mono-seam prob and the left-hand prob.

Would agree with 7b+ for the mono-seam prob - not been able to do it again since I did it in VERY stiff boots with a big rockover. The one just to the right maybe 6c+. I think this is the squeezed in one as you have to avoid reaching to the big hold on joe's. Once you've pulled on to the monoseam prob it's hard to stray offline! Traverse with feet maybe 7a, the last couple of moves are tricky. Never got anywhere with hands though.

[nik at work]

I'm a bit confused by your reply Kim.
As I understand it left to right on joes slab there is:

The mantley arete not a 7

The hard high rockover crimp prob - 7b/+

The Monoseam problem - possibly bottom end 7a but a bit squeezed in

Joes Original with various eliminates not a 7....

The right hand slab - squeezed in again and not a 7

I think you have refered to the crimpy rockover prob as the monoseam? If so I agree with you.

[Kingy]

22.   Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
I'd be tempted to give this 7a wth the right heel.

Agreed, did this yesterday and its pretty tricky so I guess 7a fits, tis quite a long way to the crimp and even further to top. Quite a nice wee problem although with a rather dangerous feel...

[Johnny Brown]

Would agree with 7b+ for the mono-seam prob - not been able to do it again since I did it in VERY stiff boots with a big rockover. The one just to the right maybe 6c+. I think this is the squeezed in one as you have to avoid reaching to the big hold on joe's. Once you've pulled on to the monoseam prob it's hard to stray offline!

As Nik says, I'd agree entirely with this if you hadn't mixed the names up. Clearly my attempt to clarify wasn't clear enough.