5. Sweet Thing. Any ascents since chipping? Grade?
7. Dawes Scoop on the Cratcliffe cragtop boulders. Has it been done from SS? Grade
8. Bransby’s direct start to Bootboys/Boothill. Name?
18. Business Lunch (wall left of Sole Power, same height better landing). Anyone done it? What bouldering grade?
20. The direct start to Above And Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier up the aręte. Grade?
21. SS to Westworld. Grade?
23. Harry’s Hole. Grade?
25. Born Snappy. Climbed in present state? Grade?
27. Big Air, done with pads and fallen off so can be considered a bolder prob yes/no? Font grade?
28. Strict direct start to Shock Horror Slab. Font grade?
30. Faze Action. Grade since pebble broke?
Joe's slab. The traverse with feet on change on angle is not as trivial as it looks, especially as smearing on quarrid change in angle rock at a head height is intimidating due to shinning potential. May be much easier for the tall though. The low trav strikes me as inferior but then low travs usually do.Right hand prob - a tight line eliminating big holds. probably not a 7 - 6c?Left-hand prob - this goes up the gap between the left arete and the mono-seam prob up the centre. I think its hard, perhaps 7b+. Basically involves mantelling the left-handmost poor crimps.
For the moment I'm trying to include everything, no matter how log/trivial/trashed. The list can get whittled down later if needed.
if you want to get everything in, make sure you've got the problem in the cave at RHS, starts as for the problem out fo the back to the blobs, but goes up to a crimp on the left lip and slaps for the fninshing jug - basically you're eliminating the right hand edge of the cave. its very good, probably 7a+.
nice - lets also make it clear in the list that its bad form to use the incut chip on the lip of the normal cave problem.
On another note, how hard is the extension to Jerry's arete at rhs? Starts on the jug to the right and traverses left round the arete to finish as for the standup.
1. Old problem from PBG – Traverse on the Bus Stop Mantel block – anyone done it? Grade?2. SS prob right of Quine. Grade?3. Slap thing left of Jerry’s Arete. Name, grade?4. SS in roof then up scoop/groove on the left wall of RHS cave. Grade?5. Sweet Thing. Any ascents since chipping? Grade?6. 5m approx right of Razor Roof is a low roof with a SS prob starting on a pinch and topping out with crozzly edges. Grade?7. Dawes Scoop on the Cratcliffe cragtop boulders. Has it been done from SS? Grade?8. Bransby’s direct start to Bootboys/Boothill. Name?9. Someone did a new short wall Problem at Eagle Tor on the back of a slab behind Brad’s aręte. Name, grade?10. Eagle Tor again. Pockety SS thing left of Boeing. Name, grade?11. Justin’s SS crack thing at Eagle Tor. Name, grade?12. I vaguely recall that the aręte below Gaia has been bouldered out on it’s right side. Name, grade?13. Two probs listed in BMC script for Birchen – Chasing The Dragon 7c/+ and Mermaid – 7c. Anyone know who did them or can confirm grade??14. The full circular link-up/traverse of Mark’s Roof. Grade?15. Has the Veale Thing been climbed on it’s right side? Name, grade?16. On the right side of Tody’s Playground there is one hardish problem (might be eliminate). Grade?17. On the left side of Joe’s Slab (Froggatt) between Joe’s Original and Joe’s aręte, there are two probs/eliminates. The right hand one is about 7a. Anyone done the left one?? Grade, description?18. Business Lunch (wall left of Sole Power, same height better landing). Anyone done it? What bouldering grade?19. Did r-man do a prob at Lawrencefield about a year ago (posted a youtube vid on UKB)? Name grade?20. The direct start to Above And Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier up the aręte. Grade?21. SS to Westworld. Grade?22. Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?23. Harry’s Hole. Grade?24. Extended Rim Traverse and SS aręte on Rim boulder Stanage far right. Grades?25. Born Snappy. Climbed in present state? Grade?26. Bentley’s Gonna Sort You Out? Grade since pebble broke?27. Big Air, done with pads and fallen off so can be considered a bolder prob yes/no? Font grade?28. Strict direct start to Shock Horror Slab. Font grade?29. Si Weill did a new prob up the gully behind Low Rider. Name, grade?30. Faze Action. Grade since pebble broke?31. As Dave says, does Joe's Slab traverse go with hands or feet at the change of angle, or have both been done. What are the grades either way?32. Cave Creation at Bell Hagg (B10 in PBG). Anyone done, grade? Cheers a million
Yeah a good warmup eh Andy?
Anyone done McThud? Justin Crichlow's sit start offwidth crack thing at Eagle Tor, given V9.
Also for the new BMC guide, I'm only describing two problems in the cave. The thing dave describes because it's the best thing there and not really eliminate, just a 'tight line', to use the parlance of our times. And the arete using everything.Feedback/objections welcomed etc.
Quote Joe's slab. The traverse with feet on change on angle is not as trivial as it looks, especially as smearing on quarrid change in angle rock at a head height is intimidating due to shinning potential. May be much easier for the tall though. The low trav strikes me as inferior but then low travs usually do.Right hand prob - a tight line eliminating big holds. probably not a 7 - 6c?Left-hand prob - this goes up the gap between the left arete and the mono-seam prob up the centre. I think its hard, perhaps 7b+. Basically involves mantelling the left-handmost poor crimps.Just to clarify - the right-hand prob I'm on about above is the one right of joe's slab. The two left of Joe's I've called the mono-seam prob and the left-hand prob.
22. Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?I'd be tempted to give this 7a wth the right heel.
Would agree with 7b+ for the mono-seam prob - not been able to do it again since I did it in VERY stiff boots with a big rockover. The one just to the right maybe 6c+. I think this is the squeezed in one as you have to avoid reaching to the big hold on joe's. Once you've pulled on to the monoseam prob it's hard to stray offline!