[Bonjoy]

Is that a low version of Tit Traverse?

[RichAmes]

No its before you come to the tit traverse - about 1/2 way between tit.trav and t-crack - under a tree. really nice (if a little painful) moves.
the original - ss and climb mini rounded arete to a break just below top of boulder and then traverse right to a scoop which you press out.
the other version climbs rounded arete 1/2 way and then traverse on v.small crimps - wicked last move.

[BenF]

The higher version is pretty cool and is in Ru's guide I think and is just about worth 7a, although the first moves seem to cause taller climbers problems (with the high left heel an' all).  The lower version seems a little contrived but I haven't really tried it so I can't really comment to be fair. 

[Andy B]

No its before you come to the tit traverse - about 1/2 way between tit.trav and t-crack - under a tree. really nice (if a little painful) moves.
the original - ss and climb mini rounded arete to a break just below top of boulder and then traverse right to a scoop which you press out.
the other version climbs rounded arete 1/2 way and then traverse on v.small crimps - wicked last move.

I haven't tried this, but I have seen it and have been meaning to try it. I think that it looks like a good obvious eliminate, and worth including. I would have guessed that it was quite hard for 7c, but you can never tell just by looking.

[Jim]

but you can never tell just by looking.

tsk,tsk Andy, you can always tell by just looking

[etjoset]

How about the rising leftward diagonal on The Dog boulder at Burbage South. Start sitting as for "Pockets and Edges" (P59, Burbage and Beyond) and climb leftwards to finish up problem 28 (P60, Ru and Jon's book). It's mentioned as an eliminate in Burbage and Beyond but not given a grade; I thought 7b (though I did have tape on 3 fingers at the time) with more independent moves than you might imagine.

[RichAmes]

Yeah would be good to find somebody else that has climbed the traverse at Cratcliffe as I have no real idea of the grade (and also if anybody did it before me!).

[r-man]

Another email from Ed, he reckons Parallel Lines is easier than he first thought, so not a 7.

[cofe]

You got this one?

Pebble Mill Stem, 7b, FA Andy Sainsbury
High right to left traverse of the pebble mill wall, with feet on the PMT handholds. Finish up the arete problem.

Much better than PMT, and definitely a new line, rather than an eliminate. Andy beat me to the FA. I would have called it Bridge Over Pebbled Wander. Maybe it's a good job he beat me. ...Better than PMT would have been a good name too.

bunch of us did this today. good prob. 7a/+?

[dave]

it is good. dunno if its claimable since its the easiest way to reverse of pebble mill traverse into the arete, hence probably a "done years ago" thing. there's a vid on the moon site of ben moon reversing the traverse into the arete from a few years back, although he drops low to the break.

[r-man]

I doubt it was done years ago. The moves are less obvious and its more powerful. The reverse of PMT into the arete was always the line that people tried, because it was daftly graded at 7c.

I thought solid 7a+ for the high line. Harder than PMT for most of the group I was there with.

[dave]

I don't know, it seems pretty obvious to me, its exactly how i tried reversing the traverse into arete a few years ago, though only having 1 mat foiled me. at the end of the day its the easiest way of crossing the scoop to climb up the arete, same line, same holds, same problem, albeit a different sequence and probably badly graded in the bmc guide. i don't think we should get into this habbit of naming different sequences on the same problem as individual lines.

[r-man]

Uh? High traverse and low traverse seem like pretty seperate problems to me. I don't think this is a radical concept, the peak is full of such things. Anyway, who cares, the lime has been called...

[Fiend]

Hi bonjoy,

Interesting list. A few personal comments:

Cave Left Hand 7a+ - think this should be 7a (and easy at that), assuming it's the natural line that takes the left most blobs to the big sloper and chip on the lip.

Rolling Pat 7a+ - agree with upgrade, tried briefly, felt nails.

Soft On The G 7b - haven't tried but talked to enough people and it seems like it was hard for 7a+ so maybe this is right. Could be V in the grade?

Bin Laden's Cave 7a - agree with downgrade.

Sidetrack 7a - think this should be ^ in the grade. Seems very morpho.

Steep Arete Sitter 7a - think this should be V in the grade or even not 7a. I might have got lucky tho.

Triangle Block 7a - if this is the detatched overhanging face just down from the edge, then tentatively agree with upgrade but could be V in the grade.

Breakfast 7a - think this is 6c+ (whatever V5 is anyway), at the very least V in the grade.

The Nose 7a - think this could be 7a+ if you can't reach to the good sloper.

Satin 7a - nowhere near 7a, very easy moves with massive holds for a grit slab (6c/6c+ (whatever V4/5 is) maybe), just (!).

K Kole Arete 7a - not sure about this, felt very easy IIRC, maybe vaguely eliminate.

Several other classic 7as I agree with BTW.

[r-man]

Sidetrack 7a - think this should be ^ in the grade. Seems very morpho.

If you do it without the footledge it's a much better problem, as you are forced to start low, and the grade doesn't depend so much on how long your arms are. 7a+ this way.

[dave]

is "cave left hand" not the better eliminat thing that gets the blobs, gets a crimp on the left hand lip with left hand then slaps for the jug, i.e. you miss out the right lip of the cave entirely?

[r-man]

No, I just looked. That's down as Cave Prob Left eliminate.

[dave]

the cave problem that traverses right into the lip isn't really any harder than the lip problem, infact its a bit of a non-problem anyway. i'd give it the same as whatever the lip problem gets.

[Fiend]

Wotever I did followed the obvious left hand line / features. Classic line of blobs / least resistance. Dunno about anything else.

[ferret]

where is the full list located?

[cofe]

http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/files

[ferret]

ta