UKBouldering.com

Eastern Grit 7 + 8s list. Help, please (Read 42778 times)

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
On EtW when it say finish at slot left of westworld does this mean jump off or top-out, any idea?

No idea. I just noticed these problems whilst searching for something else. I've sent Edd Klimas a message through ukc though...

Bonjoy

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9953
  • Karma: +562/-9
Dave - Nice shot. We didn't do any traversing, just went straight into the roof bit from below (from standing, but have done the SS bit before, it might add half a grade). We finished up the wall right of the crack after the cutloose, but this seem too contrived to include in the description for guide. I'll give you the tick

r-man - Thanks

dave

  • Guest
so right of the back corner crack then?

Bonjoy

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9953
  • Karma: +562/-9
 Yes. Had to make a move to gain the break if I remember right

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11486
  • Karma: +703/-22
Does anyone disagree with 7c for Back in the YMCA? I know I don't.

Bonjoy

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9953
  • Karma: +562/-9
I'd upped it to 7b+ already. Mawson has put it down as hard 7b+ on his scorecard. Any more opinions?

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
Does anyone disagree with 7c for Back in the YMCA? I know I don't.

The only person I've seen do it is Smitton. He said it was easy for 7a+ as I recall. So yes, 7c.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9641
  • Karma: +266/-4
7c, out of interest do most people start this from the 'floor' or the block and lean in? leaning in feels a tad easier if i remember correctly.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11486
  • Karma: +703/-22
Leaning in is easier, starting off the ground adds a 5b move. Your choice - I slept fine following an ascent from the block.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5798
  • Karma: +187/-5
following an ascent from the block.

no comment.

dave

  • Guest

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11486
  • Karma: +703/-22
The problem is disgusting as it is, there's no point prolonging it. Just get the tick as quick as possible, and move on with your life. Now if it was good, flowing climbing, I'd be looking to extend it, of course. But it ain't. Play to your own parameters people.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
Hilarious.  ;D

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1974
  • Karma: +120/-0
It kind of goes without saying that I thought 7a+ for YMCA, but Rob Barker also thought 7a+ when I did it with him.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11486
  • Karma: +703/-22
That's absolute nonsense - its taken me years, including a session with Gaz Parry and Andy Earl who also failed. To quote Gaz on another problem nearby '7c+s don't take me three visits'. Despite it just being dirty pulling on shit pockets, whish should be right up Earl's street. Ban this filth I say.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1974
  • Karma: +120/-0
Sorry, make that I thought 7b, I think it was Rob that suggested 7a+. So there you go, it's not the first grade I've got wrong. Also it's worth considering that if Rob was a god, the whole world would be made of shallow pockets.

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
I think it's a lovely problem, and it definitely starts from the floor without the block. 7a

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5798
  • Karma: +187/-5
good to see someone sticking their neck on the line and offering an english grade. good job banksy.  ;)

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
There are only two english 7a moves, and one of them is Bus Stop Mantel

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
I think we nearly did what might be shatners basoon, started in the corner of the cave where the start of hampers hang is(?), up and out up the roof, then traversed left along break into the easy warm up problem. needless to say I fell of on the move going into the easy problem and was too pumped/lazy to bother again

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
I think Shatners Bassoon finishes on the higher break. What you describe is the extension finish for a (hard won) extra grade.

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1374
  • Karma: +73/-2
Was up at burbage Nth last night and climbed a problem I hadn't done for years.
Up behind and right of Zaf Sckoridsfommsdsoms are some small butresses. There is a dyno there for a smallish pocket above a small 'roof'(described in the rockfax guide) which got B8. This is still deffo a 7a.
Just below this (on the wall left of the dyno)I did a decent sit start problem up a faint rib at 7a also (though it was mucky and no doubt done before). Starting sitting on RH slot and LH small sloper, up LH to good pocket. Rock out right to slopey break. Rock LH to top. Top out direct.

Bonjoy

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9953
  • Karma: +562/-9
Have got the dyno in at 7a.
Think I might have done the one you describe, many moons ago on a wet day when it was just about the only dry bit (but could be thinking of something totally different). Is it on a slanting southface bit of rock above sloping ground? Will put it in thus: Faint Rib SS left of Pocket Dyno - 7a.

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1374
  • Karma: +73/-2
That's the one. Funnily enough that's the name I was going to use.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal