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Eastern Grit 7 + 8s list. Help, please (Read 42207 times)

r-man

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So the low traverse of this slab, with hands on the holds and feet just above ground level - any grade suggestions for this? I tried it briefly and did most of the moves, but thought it would be a lot of effort for a 7a tick, which is what I thought it was supposed to be. (Sandbags either beguile me or rile me...)


Kingy

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Its given 6c+/ 9 in the old Peak Bouldering Guide which I think equates to Font 7a+/7b - I have only done the higher foot-traverse version but briefly tried the lower traverse. I wouldn't argue with 7a+!

Jim

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22.   Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
I'd be tempted to give this 7a wth the right heel. I did it at the same time as dave and i'm sure it took us a few goes.
I'd agree with this although this is a pretty poor problem

That wall left of sole power, Pete made it look absolutely nails. I seem to remember there wasn't a lack of talent about that day either and no one else got close.

Zods Beard

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another problem (and to seem no doubt hyocritical given what i've just written above) - breakfast arete, climb it till you've got RH on the first good seam on the left of the arete as a backhand, clamp feet round the arete and go round left, aiming for those massive old chips on the face. nice problem and probably worth a 7.


Awesome problem anyway you do it.

Ru

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The problem right of Pooh was first done by Mick without the heel and with the crimp I think, hence the grade.

Sitter to Westworld was done by Welford, can't remember whether he thought it added a grade. I'd say that without further info, if it's going in your list at hard 7c+ the sitter should be 8a. If it's going in at easy 8a, then the sitter is also 8a. Etc.

I've done Bentleys since the pebble broke, and thought whatever grade I gave it in the guide.

Pockety SS thing left of Boeing: is this not in the guide?? Will check later. 7a ish, maybe easier.

For my money Sweet Thing is still at least 8a from the sitter. Maybe being bigger helps.

I've got some info on the stuff at Birchens somewhere for a chapter of the guide that didn't make it. I think Mermaid is a low traverse on the right of the edge by Mark Reeve? Or maybe I'm getting confused. I'll look later when I have more time.

Bonjoy

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Cheers.
Some crags I did refering to guide and some from memory. I didn't have the guide with me at work all last week though.

 What's the deal with the slab left of Talk To Me Martin given B9 in an old bouldering guide? Mythical non-entity?
 Looked at the Bus Stop Mantel traverse as described in the PBG on Sunday. It looks a bit holdless right of BSM and has no obvious exit point. I'm assuming it was misdescribed unless someone knows better. What was better was a r-l trav starting on the BSM holds and manteling at the arete. I did most of it at end of day but was too tired to judge difficulty. My best guess being 7a, anyone done this (it was chalked)?
 Also at Rowtor. Does the breakage of the big crimp on 'the crimpy sitter' affect Dissolution (not that anyone climbed it in years judging by the green)?

Bonjoy

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A few I’d like second (or first) opinions on grade:
•   Dissolution – 7b?
•   Flake to top dyno on aręte near Druid Pub (Rowtor) – 7a?
•   Hang ‘em High (Rowtor) – 7a?
•   Percy’s Low Prow Thing on ridge halfway between Domes and My Apple - ?
•   Scary slab on boulder left of Jerry’s Arete – 6c+/7a?
•   Super Thin slab/wall on west side of Boysen’s Crack boulder. 7a in guide, this must be graded for using holds on the right. Anyone (Uptowngirl?) done the direct version, seems 7b/+ ballpark?
•   Mona and thing to left (Eagle tor)?
•   One for Andy Harris. Didn’t you do a line going rightwards through that low roof at Gardom’s North (the one with low mantle on front). Grade, name?
•   Mysterious traverse into Bullworker mentioned in PBG - ???
•   Unfamiliar SS. Is this a confirmed prob yet? – Grade?
•   Left Spur? Andy B? Anyone else? Does it start low as described still? If so seems hard at given grade.
•   Boulder Club (Rivelin). Font grade anyone?

That’ll do for starters.

r-man

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•   Flake to top dyno on aręte near Druid Pub (Rowtor) – 7a?

I haven't done it, but I tried it a couple of years ago and it's certainly no easier than 7a, if that helps.

Ru

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Dissolution: I think 7b.
I've not done Mona but the small sitter thing to the left is 7c, might be a bit harder, I did it a long time ago.
Bullworker trav: tricky, 7c? Andy Harris has done it too.
I came to the conclusion that the problem left of Talk to me Martin was a non entity.
Unfamiliar sit start: I honestly can't remember whether I did this or whether Jon Barton did whilst guide checking. I have a feeling that we both did. Whichever, the guide grade wasn't just a guess. I need to check my notes if I can locate them.
Left Spur: I did this whilst guide checking. Again, need to check my notes from the time.

Bonjoy

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Great stuff.
Was only unsure about Unfamiliar due to wording of description in guide.
Likewise with Left Spur which mentions pulling on a pebble that no longer exists. Would love to see how this is done at less than 7c from low flake.
If you could let me know of any random 7s that didn't make the mark for your guide, that'd be great

Johnny Brown

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Indeed - you gave Unfamiliar sit 7a+, then described it as 'more a rumour than a problem'. I took this to mean it was a rumour, though I'm now thinking you meant the quality/ difficulty of the problem was low compared to its mythical status. Question?

Ru

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It was initially thought to have been done at 7c but we couldnt find anyone that would admit to the first ascent or indeed knew anything about it. Jon and I then went and had a session on it and I think one or the other or both did it, and thought it quite easy in comparison to what we expected. However I'm now being a little hesitant as I can't remember the exact details.

Kingy

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•   Scary slab on boulder left of Jerry’s Arete – 6c+/7a?
•   

I did this a while back but think I bottled the true line at the top by beetling off to the left at about 15 foot up, which was still scary. Found it quite hard and weird getting off the ground. Wouldn't say no to 7a but the direct looks about E4!

Andy B

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•   Left Spur? Andy B? Anyone else? Does it start low as described still? If so seems hard at given grade.

Yep it still starts from sitting. I did it in a few goes and didn't think it was too bad for 7a at the time, but it does involve a very high foot up and rock over, which is how I try to climb everything, so the grade could be a fair bit harder really. Especially as not many people seem to get it done. 7b? I thought it was easier than Bentleys which is probably hard 7b+, so no more than that. 

Bonjoy

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As left leg rockovers go it felt harder than the Storm to me, but I was probably being a flid. I'll stick it in at 7b

Ru

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Forgot about left spur. I thought it was whatever grade I gave in the guide but couldn't find anyone else that had done it at the time. I too tend to climb by way of the high rickover so it could be harder. I wouldn't disagree with 7b from low.

Johnny Brown

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Quote
Quote
•   Scary slab on boulder left of Jerry’s Arete – 6c+/7a?
•   

I did this a while back but think I bottled the true line at the top by beetling off to the left at about 15 foot up, which was still scary. Found it quite hard and weird getting off the ground. Wouldn't say no to 7a but the direct looks about E4!

The direct might warrant 7a but the logical line stepping right is probably 6b ish. I'm not sure it'd be a 7 in font mind.

Bonjoy

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I tend to agree, even though I've not done it. The actual climbing looks easier than say Beauty which doesn't make it into the sevens

r-man

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Here's another one - Tommy (of All Elements fame) did a new 7b thing at Burbage South a couple of months ago, which I don't think he reported on the forums. I can't really remember what he said - possibly it starts up Definitive 5.11 then traverses left, but I could be talking nonsense. He's in NZ right now, so can't provide details, but apparently he put them in the Hathersage new route book.
« Last Edit: March 12, 2008, 11:10:21 am by r-man »

Johnny Brown

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Quote
The direct might warrant 7a but the logical line stepping right is probably 6b ish. I'm not sure it'd be a 7 in font mind.

I mean left obviously. Always found left and right confusing.

Fiend

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What about "up" and "down"?

Andy B

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As left leg rockovers go it felt harder than the Storm to me, but I was probably being a flid. I'll stick it in at 7b

True, it took me two more goes to do Left Spur than it did to do The Storm, but I reckon I could do Left Spur more consistently than The Storm.

Kingy

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The direct might warrant 7a but the logical line stepping right is probably 6b ish. I'm not sure it'd be a 7 in font mind.

Yes perhaps the difficulties on this one are more in the mind...maybe best left in the sixes.

cofe

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have you got some of the obscure stuff on there like Huffy's problem Tolerance near Bell Hagg? Think it's 7b+.

Bonjoy

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Never heard of it. Assuming you aren't shitting me, what are the details?

 

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