[Bonjoy]

As mentioned elsewhere I’m working on an Eastern Grit 7 + 8s. Inevitably I’ve come across quite a few mysteries. Here’s a cluster for you to be getting your teeth into.

1.   Old problem from PBG – Traverse on the Bus Stop Mantel block – anyone done it? Grade?
2.   SS prob right of Quine. Grade?
3.   Slap thing left of Jerry’s Arete. Name, grade?
4.   SS in roof then up scoop/groove on the left wall of RHS cave. Grade?
5.   Sweet Thing. Any ascents since chipping? Grade?
6.   5m approx right of Razor Roof is a low roof with a SS prob starting on a pinch and topping out with crozzly edges. Grade?
7.   Dawes Scoop on the Cratcliffe cragtop boulders. Has it been done from SS? Grade?
8.   Bransby’s direct start to Bootboys/Boothill. Name?
9.   Someone did a new short wall Problem at Eagle Tor on the back of a slab behind Brad’s arête. Name, grade?
10.   Eagle Tor again. Pockety SS thing left of Boeing. Name, grade?
11.   Justin’s SS crack thing at Eagle Tor. Name, grade?
12.   I vaguely recall that the arête below Gaia has been bouldered out on it’s right side. Name, grade?
13.   Two probs listed in BMC script for Birchen – Chasing The Dragon 7c/+ and Mermaid – 7c. Anyone know who did them or can confirm grade??
14.   The full circular link-up/traverse of Mark’s Roof. Grade?
15.   Has the Veale Thing been climbed on it’s right side? Name, grade?
16.   On the right side of Tody’s Playground there is one hardish problem (might be eliminate). Grade?
17.   On the left side of Joe’s Slab (Froggatt) between Joe’s Original and Joe’s arête, there are two probs/eliminates. The right hand one is about 7a. Anyone done the left one?? Grade, description?
18.   Business Lunch (wall left of Sole Power, same height better landing). Anyone done it? What bouldering grade?
19.   Did r-man do a prob at Lawrencefield about a year ago (posted a youtube vid on UKB)? Name grade?
20.   The direct start to Above And Beyond The Kinaesthetic Barrier up the arête. Grade?
21.   SS to Westworld. Grade?
22.   Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
23.   Harry’s Hole. Grade?
24.   Extended Rim Traverse and SS arête on Rim boulder Stanage far right. Grades?
25.   Born Snappy. Climbed in present state? Grade?
26.   Bentley’s Gonna Sort You Out? Grade since pebble broke?
27.   Big Air, done with pads and fallen off so can be considered a bolder prob yes/no? Font grade?
28.   Strict direct start to Shock Horror Slab. Font grade?
29.   Si Weill did a new prob up the gully behind Low Rider. Name, grade?
30.   Faze Action. Grade since pebble broke?
31.         As Dave says, does Joe's Slab traverse go with hands or feet at the change of angle, or have both been done. What are the grades either way?
32. Cave Creation at Bell Hagg (B10 in PBG). Anyone done, grade?

 Cheers a million
 

[dave]

17.   On the left side of Joe’s Slab (Froggatt) between Joe’s Original and Joe’s arête, there are two probs/eliminates. The right hand one is about 7a. Anyone done the left one?? Grade, description?

Kim's done the left one, i've tried it, seems i've never got stiff enough boots and am shit at slabs. i would imagine in the 7b ballpark.

could you also clarify the traverse of that slab - i always assumed it hand traversed the head-height slopes and crimps (clearly hard) but some say you walk across these (no doubt tricky but nowhere near as hard). question?

[nik at work]

12. I think this was Tom, in fact I'm sure it was. I have a feeling the grade was about 7c and no idea on the name. I could be wrong about the grade though, or confused, or senile. You could PM him through this site for accurate details.

17. I'd agree with Dave, thin 7b-ish.

[Bonjoy]

Cheers chaps. Have added the trav query

[Jaspersharpe]

17.   On the left side of Joe’s Slab (Froggatt) between Joe’s Original and Joe’s arête, there are two probs/eliminates. The right hand one is about 7a. Anyone done the left one?? Grade, description?

Kim's done the left one, i've tried it, seems i've never got stiff enough boots and am shit at slabs. i would imagine in the 7b ballpark.

Is the right hand one using the little mono/dish thing? The left hand one must be thin indeed. I could only see one line there when I did it.

[Bonjoy]

12. I think this was Tom, in fact I'm sure it was. I have a feeling the grade was about 7c and no idea on the name. I could be wrong about the grade though, or confused, or senile. You could PM him through this site for accurate details.

I know he did the left arete of this bit of rock at 7c, 3m or so left of Curved Crack (My Brown Trousers). So he did the arete under Gaia as well.

[lagerstarfish]

22.   Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?

Do you mean number 5 in Ru's guide or a line in between this and pooh?

Also, on that no. 5 on page 73 of Ru's guide - I assume that a heel on the R arete (v good heel) is out for the 7c. I can't touch it without the heel, but starting with both hands in the break and using the R heel to go to little edge with RH (change LH to pushing down) and then again for the top feels like 7b for me (6' with good reach and only done a handfull of 7bs) not a dyno though, more of an udge.

[nik at work]

I know he did the left arete of this bit of rock at 7c, 3m or so left of Curved Crack (My Brown Trousers). So he did the arete under Gaia as well.

Ah, I might be getting confused then. Probably still worth a speculative PM.

31. I've always assumed it was hands above feet below the angle. As Dave says, feet above may be tricky but feet below is hard.

[Bonjoy]

I know he did the left arete of this bit of rock at 7c, 3m or so left of Curved Crack (My Brown Trousers). So he did the arete under Gaia as well.

Ah, I might be getting confused then. Probably still worth a speculative PM.

31. I've always assumed it was hands above feet below the angle. As Dave says, feet above may be tricky but feet below is hard.

Yeah, he doesn't mention the arete under gaia in this thread http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7616.0.html

[dave]

22.   Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?

Do you mean number 5 in Ru's guide or a line in between this and pooh?

Also, on that no. 5 on page 73 of Ru's guide - I assume that a heel on the R arete (v good heel) is out for the 7c. I can't touch it without the heel, but starting with both hands in the break and using the R heel to go to little edge with RH (change LH to pushing down) and then again for the top feels like 7b for me (6' with good reach and only done a handfull of 7bs) not a dyno though, more of an udge.

with heel on the arete this is a 6c problem (ok but nothing more) where if you get your weight over your foot you can go static. The 7c as originally claimed by mick adams as far as I know was a pooh-style dyno with feet low=hard. if you rule out the arete you can also get up to that poor crimp with left foot heel/toe on the pooh holds, leaving you just a pop for the top (terrifying without a couple of mats and a yorkshire spot!). dunno how you'd approach describing/distinguising/grading all this lot!

[nik at work]

In that case ignore me, I'm an idiot.

But the other stuff is right (probably...)

[nik at work]

13. Very vague (i.e. probably wrong) idea that these Birchens probs might have been by Katz, but as has been proven already I'm a fool....

I'm just trying to help honest...

[lagerstarfish]

with heel on the arete this is a 6c problem (ok but nothing more) where if you get your weight over your foot you can go static.

  doesn't surprise me at all.

dunno how you'd approach describing/distinguising/grading all this lot!

that's what youtube is for - where words and picture are not enough...

[Bonjoy]

13. Very vague (i.e. probably wrong) idea that these Birchens probs might have been by Katz, but as has been proven already I'm a fool....

I'm just trying to help honest...

Nige tells me that they were done by Mark Evans.

Have added another Q. Anyone done the old B10 thing from the PBG at Bell Hagg Cave Creation, weird lip trav under the lurcher?

[Bonjoy]

if you rule out the arete you can also get up to that poor crimp with left foot heel/toe on the pooh holds, leaving you just a pop for the top (terrifying without a couple of mats and a yorkshire spot!).

Have you done it this way? Grade? This would seem to be THE line (a bit of a tight one mind).

[dave]

nah i tried it this way briefly but with only 1 mat, poor conditions and no spotter it seems suicidal. i'm sure it would weigh in at <7c. On the same session I'd just fallen off the same move in mirror image (heel just by the arete) and fallen down that gully arse over tit. not nice.

[account_inactive]

6.   5m approx right of Razor Roof is a low roof with a SS prob starting on a pinch and topping out with crozzly edges. Grade?

Think this was in the old guide at B8, which could mean anything.  It's a while since I've done it but I think around 7a/+

[nik at work]

Oh I give up....

[Johnny Brown]

Word. Worth going over the latest set of bmc pdfs as many of these are covered.

Tody's wall prob - 7a+.  Not really eliminate, pretty much the furthest right line uses a poor pocket. High

Joe's slab.

The traverse with feet on change on angle is not as trivial as it looks, especially as smearing on quarrid change in angle rock at a head height is intimidating due to shinning potential. May be much easier for the tall though. The low trav strikes me as inferior but then low travs usually do.

Right hand prob - a tight line eliminating big holds. probably not a 7 - 6c?

Left-hand prob - this goes up the gap between the left arete and the mono-seam prob up the centre. I think its hard, perhaps 7b+. Basically involves mantelling the left-handmost poor crimps.


The Gaia arete 

I know he did the left arete of this bit of rock at 7c, 3m or so left of Curved Crack (My Brown Trousers). So he did the arete under Gaia as well.

- I had Tom's prob down as going up the arete under Gaia. However latest Black rocks script has it as blunt rib to the left, which it sounds like it is.

Will post more once I've had another look at the op

[webbo]

SS arête on Rim boulder Stanage far right. Grades?

is this the b8 from the peak rockfax.
if so did it years ago think it would be about 6c+/7a

[Bonjoy]

Tah.

Haven't had latest scripts. Could you forward said email?

[Andy B]

2.   SS prob right of Quine. Grade?
Did this on Sunday and it's is less than 7a

3.   Slap thing left of Jerry’s Arete. Name, grade?
Haven't doe it but have been told it's a one move 7b+

4.   SS in roof then up scoop/groove on the left wall of RHS cave. Grade?
Did this a while back, and don't think it's a seven either, without some very dodgy rules. It used to get B9 didn't it?

5.   Sweet Thing. Any ascents since chipping? Grade?
James said he reckoned this was now about 7c+

10.   Eagle Tor again. Pockety SS thing left of Boeing. Name, grade?
Maybe 7a tops, but it's a stiff pull.

14.   The full circular link-up/traverse of Mark’s Roof. Grade?
7b

19.   Did r-man do a prob at Lawrencefield about a year ago (posted a youtube vid on UKB)? Name grade?
He's So Derrick. Can't remember the grade.

22.   Dyno right of Pooh. Name, grade?
I'd be tempted to give this 7a wth the right heel. I did it at the same time as dave and i'm sure it took us a few goes.

24.   Extended Rim Traverse and SS arête on Rim boulder Stanage far right. Grades?
Both less than 7a.

26.   Bentley’s Gonna Sort You Out? Grade since pebble broke?
Probably still 7b+, but quite stiff.27.   

30.   Faze Action. Grade since pebble broke?
I dynoed this without the pebble before it was snapped off. Still 7b I reckon.      

[Bonjoy]

That's what i'm talking about!

Has anyone done the two B7s at Carrhead Rocks mentioned in PBG? Grade?

[r-man]

19.   Did r-man do a prob at Lawrencefield about a year ago (posted a youtube vid on UKB)? Name grade?

He's so Derick - 7a+

Might be 7b, dunno. Needs some repeats, but everyone keeps telling me they couldn't find it.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6461.0.html


Crap video, sorry. The next move would be to top, but it's tricky.
--

On another note, how hard is the extension to Jerry's arete at rhs? Starts on the jug to the right and traverses left round the arete to finish as for the standup.

[Andy B]

On another note, how hard is the extension to Jerry's arete at rhs? Starts on the jug to the right and traverses left round the arete to finish as for the standup.

7b+ i think.