[mark]

Mark - Didn't realize there was any 7s there. Saw some stuff you did in an old thread but I think you gave it 6c+.

There are 4 problems there. Right to left they are:

Here Be Dragons. From under the roof climb up to the huge hueco on the lip. FA: Mark Hundleby. Font 6c, maybe harder.
Sean Penn. Straight up the middle of the buttress. FA: John Welford. Font 7a, almost certainly harder.
Just Walkin'. The left side of the front of the buttress to a hueco over the lip. FA: Jon Barton. Font 7a.
[Name unknown] Through the overlap left of Just Walkin'. Scrittly and neighbouring buttress a bit too close for comfort. FA: John Welford. Font 7a+ says John.

The first three problems above are really good if they're clean. Go on, someone repeat them. HBD could be 7a as well. It's hard to tell as it's pretty committing;

[Johnny Brown]

Doesn't look like a dragon to me. Could it be a tibetan spaniel?

[Jaspersharpe]

"Here Be Funny Looking Little Dogs" has a certain ring to it.

[Bonjoy]

Didn't realise there was that much there. Will certainly go check them out. All duly added to list.

[dave]

Doesn't look like a dragon to me. Could it be a tibetan spaniel?

try further afield.

[ehmojow]

don't know about giving big air a font grade.  the jump bit's the easy/non-scary/relatively safe bit.  if you come off the top moves you're gona hurt urself to shit...

[Johnny Brown]

Three or four pads and its fine. Not sure its a seven though...

[Bonjoy]

Have seen folk take semi-contolled lobs off the top move and land fine

[r-man]

Blue - [Name unknown] Through the overlap left of Just Walkin'. Scrittly and neighbouring buttress a bit too close for comfort. FA: John Welford. Font 7a+ says John.
Green - Just Walkin'. The left side of the front of the buttress to a hueco over the lip. FA: Jon Barton. Font 7a.
Yellow - Sean Penn. Straight up the middle of the buttress. FA: John Welford. Font 7a, almost certainly harder.
Red - Here Be Dragons. From under the roof climb up to the huge hueco on the lip. FA: Mark Hundleby. Font 6c, maybe harder.

HBD could be 7a as well. It's hard to tell as it's pretty committing.

Thought it might be worth reposting your pic. I'd like to try these sometime - where exactly is this though?

[ehmojow]

Three or four pads and its fine. Not sure its a seven though...

Right u are.  Spose it must be alrite if one can fall off the top.  I shat my pants when i did it 

[mark]

Thought it might be worth reposting your pic. I'd like to try these sometime - where exactly is this though?

Good thinking. I'd forgotten that I'd ever posted the photo. The sheepfold is underneath Higgar. If you stand under the main wall at Higgar, i.e. under the Rasp, then there's an obvious area down to your left enclosed by a stone wall. That's the sheepfold. The buttress is 50 metres or so to its left.

[slackline]

Good thinking. I'd forgotten that I'd ever posted the photo. The sheepfold is underneath Higgar. If you stand under the main wall at Higgar, i.e. under the Rasp, then there's an obvious area down to your left enclosed by a stone wall. That's the sheepfold. The buttress is 50 metres or so to its left.

Isn't that the one thats mentioned as providing worthwhile entertainment in the Froggart 1991 guide but then disparaged in the RockFax Peak Bouldering Guide?   

[grimer]

That's the way it goes. If something gets a good write up, and it's average, then someone will go along and be disappointed. They will then write this in the guide. Then someone will go along expecting to be disappointed, and find it, and be pleasantly surprised. They will then write this down, and the next people will be disappointed again.

That's why the happiest people always expect everything to be shit.

[SA Chris]

And it goes back and forth

And back and forth, you known

Never...

Never...

Land...

[Johnny Brown]

That's why the happiest people always expect everything to be shit.

How do you square that with Dense?

[lagerstarfish]

1. "All the happiest people expect everything to be shit" can be shown to be true empirically.
2. 1 does not necessarily imply that "all people who expect everything to be shit are happy".
3. it can be true that  "All the happiest people expect everything to be shit" and "there are some people who expect everything to be shit who are not happy"

Ludwig Wittgenstein, Philosophy of Bouldering and The Problem of Grades 1948

[grimer]

That's why the happiest people always expect everything to be shit.

How do you square that with Dense?

Ah, subtley different. He knows everything is shit.

[slackline]

I think that syllogism needs some refinement lagers.  You need two premises and one conclusion.

Major : All the happiest people expect everything to be shit
Minor : Not everything is shit
Conclusion : Some people will be happiest

But then maybe I need to read Wittgenstein's full treatise (and formal logic has never been a strong point of mine).

[Jim]

Great minds Johnny, great minds...

[r-man]

Got a reply from Edd about EtW

Ok mate, hope following info helps you guys, Eastworld to Westworld is a low
level traverse of the Westworld block following the thin crimpy seam from
the flat slabby block on the floor round the arête, see the photo's attached
to show the start, toe hook and heel hook and follow the crimps and slopes
to the arête, get yourself round the arête and follow the seam to a crimp at
the start of Westworld, then just jump off with your feet a couple of inches
of the deck or continue in to Westworld (now that would be a problem and a
half !!)
 

[Johnny Brown]

I don't think this is worth including.

[Jaspersharpe]

When the description said easier for small climbers it wasn't kidding.

[dave]

this looks to be on a par with WSS sitter to be filed in the "shit to be left out of lists and guides that frankly we don't care about future generations reclaiming every few years, thay've got to learn somehow" drawer.

[Fiend]

this looks to be on a par with WSS sitter to be filed in the "shit to be left out of lists and guides that frankly we don't care about future generations reclaiming every few years, thay've got to learn somehow" drawer.

Word.

It actually makes me feel faintly nauseous looking at those photos and thinking that someone might consider this to be a valid addition to gritstone bouldering.

[RichAmes]

Just wondering if you had room for one more on your list - it's a traverse at Cratcliffe - above T-Crack - there is a problem in new and old guides at 7a/B8 (I think) - traverse left to right on low boulder - finish in scoop. I did the lower traverse on small crimps below it to same finish probably 4 years ago (not sure if I was first) - I reckon about 7c ish. Be good if it got a mention. Thanks.