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Aims for 2022 (Read 26974 times)

Wellsy

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#150 Re: Aims for 2022
July 04, 2022, 02:22:41 pm
I'd rather just generically improve and see grades come naturally, but that said I'd definitely like to get myself to Blackwell Dale and Roche Abbey and try some stuff there as I've not visited either crag!

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#151 Re: Aims for 2022
July 05, 2022, 04:40:23 pm
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:

- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment.

Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year.

Climbing
- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.
- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready".
 - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times.

If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:
- 7a sport
- E1/2


Life
- Get a job.
- Support partner.
- Improve Sinhala.



1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health.

2)  :'( Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win.

3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!

I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...

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#152 Re: Aims for 2022
July 05, 2022, 04:54:10 pm
Winter

Still hoping to get to the Alps, not looking like it will be this month as planned, might need to put back. Twice!

More ski touring. Had some great days last year, but limited to "local". Be nice to get to West Coast, and never skied 'Coe. nope, skis didn't see Scottish Snow.

Failing that, get on some winter routes if conditions for skiing don't come good. Nothing crazy, a few IIIs or IVs maybe, not swung an axe in about 8 years (apart from easy ski approaches). Might even upgrade kit, Vegas and Pirahnas look archaic.

Nope

Rock

Local bouldering projects. Some

Get to more Scottish spots; Drumore / Torridon / Strathnairn etc. Not Yet

Couple of mountain trad routes. Not yet, season still early

Get psyched for a local sport project. Actually clipped some bolts, but no project yet.

Climb the trad line I spotted locally on an unrecorded crag a few years back, that no-one has found yet. Not yet

Do some local DWS. Not yet

Sea

any of;

More surfing

Some more SUPing

Just getting in the sea more - it's only a 15 min walk from the door.
Shite, been swimming once, surfing nonece

Running

1000 km total in the year 6k behind target in spite of COVID and injuries, will count that as a win.

otherwise; still undecided, might do another marathon or ultra, or maybe focus on a half marathon PB. still not decided, 50km Ultra in November I think

Not neglect strength and conditioning and don't get injured again. So far so good

Personal

Get face out of screens and read more. yup

Sort out finances. kind of

get house extension done. nope - no real progress - got a quote.

Wellsy

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#153 Re: Aims for 2022
July 05, 2022, 04:59:47 pm
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:

- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment.

Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year.

Climbing
- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.
- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready".
 - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times.

If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:
- 7a sport
- E1/2


Life
- Get a job.
- Support partner.
- Improve Sinhala.



1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health.

2)  :'( Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win.

3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!

I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...

It's fucking tough mate. You're a brave man sticking it out and still trying to set goals and be supportive. I'm sure your other half doesn't see you as a bad partner at all, you're sick and long term illness is bloody hard, you can only do what you can do.

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#154 Re: Aims for 2022
July 06, 2022, 03:39:09 pm
I was planning on doing this at the end of January after a bit of time to consider some plans post exam year.

Unfortunately I dislocated my patella yesterday walking across my bedroom of all things.

Thatís slightly altered the start of my year but anyway few goals for this year:

1. Do a ton of physio
2. Restart running, take it easy, no specific aims for now.
3. Climb again.
4. Especially on rockÖ
5. Sort out home training facilities.
6. Stick with habit tracker a bit better.

Agree very much with above, Iím impressed by everyone I meet right now keeping on going through some tough times, and puts my own injuries etc into perspective.

Hereís how much year is going in brief:

Certainly much happier in general after 2021 the year of exam revision. So good to draw a line under all of that. Lots of areas I could improve on still, but Iím more content despite not doing much on paper.

For the goals:

1. Physio - kept this going pretty well until I could run again and then has tailed off somewhat. Need to improve this as the reason my knee dislocated again was in some part due to pre-existing muscle imbalances, it wasnít just about rehabbing this injury.

2. Restart running - have done this sooner than the physios said despite there still being some discrepancy in leg strength, but needed to for sanity. Have signed up for Bournemouth half marathon again now, so do have a specific goal. My pace is still way off pre knee so I doubt any PBs will be set, but I have some time before October to at least get up to the distance.

3. Climb again. Iíve done this! (Not enough, but some)

4. Especially on rock. Climbed down in Swanage once, felt unbelievable unfit but was still fun. Felt really strange finding 6a absolutely nails and not being able to do moves on a 7a, but I didnít have expectations and was just great being on rock. Just back from first Font trip post pandemic which was also great. Repeated a 6C I had done some years ago in a couple of goes and some circuits in the heat which was fun. Had a crack at the sit to Danger Majeur at Sabots, couldnít get off the floor, but other than that didnít feel far off, so psyched for next time!

5. Havenít built home wall yet, but living arrangements still somewhat fluid. Have some home gym stuff.

6. Am sticking with the habit tracker pretty well to kept some consistency going with the various things Iíd like to do better (yoga, sleep, etc). Will aim to do better second half of year!

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#155 Re: Aims for 2022
July 06, 2022, 04:48:25 pm
My aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year.

If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!

To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate
finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.

Funny you say that, I find the fool piss compared to fallen idol (which I haven't done despite having a few sessions on it). I'm no crimp waif but Im not completely shit on small holds either.

Interesting. My finger strength on a 20mm edge is extremely poor for my climbing grade, but actually quite good on small edges. I've learnt that I need to be crimping at a very high angle and pulling outwards on the holds (like a pound shop Aidan), or I'm not very good! On my one visit to Roche, I had a power hour going right to left of Beef Buttress, trying all the independent lines up to 7B+. I started with Fallen Idol and nearly flashed it, but by the time I got to The Fool at the other end it felt pretty hard and I didn't quite finish it. It may be steady with adequate rest.

However, I'm dubious of your grading since getting to try Kleptomania recently; it definitely felt harder than 7A+ to me! In fact it feels quite a bit harder than either the fool or fallen idol and I didn't manage to clip the chains that session. Quality moves though, so it's not too disappointing having to return!


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#156 Re: Aims for 2022
July 06, 2022, 06:04:08 pm
I concur with Remus  - Fallen Idol is miles harder than The Fool, and incomparably harder than the crux of Kelpto.

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#157 Re: Aims for 2022
July 06, 2022, 06:56:09 pm
Loving the Best of 2021 reflective psyche, and the commitment here.

After many years of somewhat drifting along in absolute climbing ability terms, and not really doing much more than surviving at work, this year feels like one that will consist of ending things, exploring/finding things and commencing things.

I've decided that my work/home/training excuses of "not liking plans" and "keeping flexible" is maybe just an excuse for not setting goals and committing to them, accepting possible failure. So far I have made a 16 week training plan, and feel genuinely motivated to stick to it.

I'm also very soon, VERY SOON going to quit my job and take some no-kid parental leave (aka sabbatical), and give me some space to:

  • Train
  • Start / Finish some woodwork projects that never seem to get done
  • Develop my freelance network
  • Get better at Sea-Kayaking with OH,
  • Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)
  • Make plans for getting a doer-upper bit of land/old house

> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there.
> Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron.
> Start working Reqiuem
> Also have some sessions on Dalriada
> Malc's Arete  (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?)

I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there.

I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.


  • Train
Tick
  • Start / Finish some woodwork projects that never seem to get done
Begun, but less progress than I hoped. Did convert my home wall into a decent workbench though, so that's a win.
  • Develop my freelance network
In progress, but time will tell how sustainable it ends up.
  • Get better at Sea-Kayaking with OH,
Later in the year we have a weekend trip planned.
  • Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)
Plans changed Off to the Bugaboos in a month for 5 weeks  :great:
  • Make plans for getting a doer-upper bit of land/old house
In progress...
[/list]

> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there. Tried
> Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron. One done, one to go.
> Start working Reqiuem Not been on it yet.
> Also have some sessions on Dalriada Maybe next week
> Malc's Arete  (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?) Barely been bouldering, just more psyched on trad and sport just now. That said, did have a good ession on the new Dubh Lic Boulders and got close on Feast for Croes 7B https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dubh-lic_boulders-28920/a_feast_for_croes_stand-629394

I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there. Just dismantled it for now, and built a big carpenter's wokbench instead.

I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.  Not terrible, but definitely some wear. Apparently the old PCL repair is still looking tight.

Not bad for half the year, and some good reminders of things to do!  Good luck everyone with 2022.5 (especially for those really toughing it out)

AJM

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#158 Re: Aims for 2022
July 06, 2022, 07:40:22 pm
Outdoor climbing
- as last year, Iíd like to do some actual sport climbing again. Preferably a quality project at 7c/+, although a bunch of onsighting at 7a or up would be a substitute

Some progress on this, definitely. I've certainly done a lot more sport climbing. I've tried to onsight 2 7as (both second go), I've done 2 quick 7a+s, and I've had 2 fairly short sessions on Zinc Oxide Mountain, which ticks all the sort of boxes I was looking for in getting back into some projecting again, even if nominally it's 7b+ rather than 7c/+

- Iíd like to fill in some gaps in my DWS CV and make a slightly better effort on Mark of the Beast

Only just beginning

- Hardest to organise but it would be nice to do some trad again. Lots of classics, ideally some E grades, be nice to get back to E3 again

I would feel a bit cheeky putting orange for my one VS...

- Progress on my ďwhy havenít I alreadyĒ and ďharder things to tryĒ ticklists.

nice and easy, I've done one thing of the first one.

- Bouldering - Iíd like to do Stomping with Bez, try the direct, do Liquid Sunshine, and do some harder problems away from home.

Not really. A slow to heal hamstring tweak and a finger niggle hampered my bouldering campaign, plus I got the opportunity to do more roped stuff and jumped at it.

Indoor/training
- better and more balanced shoulders. In terms of what this might look like, Iíd like to be able to hang off a bar one armed without assistance, lock off one armed at a few angles, continue to work on regaining and extending the tuck planche, and get to a point where say ten dips in a set feels ok.

I'll go optimistic on this, I've done a lot more basic shoulder and push work than in previous years, definitely regained and I think improved a little the tuck planche but not done much other benchmarking as yet

- Work on some weaknesses. I have many weaknesses, so specifically in this case Iíd like to get better at climbing face on, and at getting my weight onto feet that are high, away to the side or generally not underneath me. Working something into my circuits and doing a bunch on the board feel like obvious ways of approaching this.
- Try to build a stretching habit

Nope to both of these. I started with good intentions and did fairly ok but then the finger hampered the board time and the hamstring tweak made me reluctant to stretch it

Life
-  less doom scrolling. Iím usually quite tired by the evenings so have a bad habit of ending up vegetating staring at my phone - Instagram, FB, clips on YouTube, other similar wastes of time. I am not going to pretend to aim for wholesome but unrealistic - more training, heavy reading, or whatever - but even easy to read fiction would be a big improvement!

Optimistically this is orange, I have definitely done some other things but it is definitely a case of less rather than none

- Support MrsAJM in doing more stuff again. Between spending half her maternity leave in lockdown #1 doing full time childcare, then subsequent lockdowns, and the fact microAJM is quite a handful, she hasnít really managed to get back into things much (she used to climb a bit, do aerial circus, etc) and often feels a bit stuck in a rut. Would be great to help her out of it into something, whatever that might be!

Making some progress on this, I think, definitely been doing a bit more outdoor stuff as a family and also starting to create a bit more child free space for each other as well

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#159 Re: Aims for 2022
July 06, 2022, 07:51:52 pm
Outdoor climbing
- as last year, Iíd like to do some actual sport climbing again. Preferably a quality project at 7c/+, although a bunch of onsighting at 7a or up would be a substitute

Some progress on this, definitely. I've certainly done a lot more sport climbing. I've tried to onsight 2 7as (both second go), I've done 2 quick 7a+s, and I've had 2 fairly short sessions on Zinc Oxide Mountain, which ticks all the sort of boxes I was looking for in getting back into some projecting again, even if nominally it's 7b+ rather than 7c/+

- Iíd like to fill in some gaps in my DWS CV and make a slightly better effort on Mark of the Beast

Only just beginning

- Hardest to organise but it would be nice to do some trad again. Lots of classics, ideally some E grades, be nice to get back to E3 again

I would feel a bit cheeky putting orange for my one VS...

- Progress on my ďwhy havenít I alreadyĒ and ďharder things to tryĒ ticklists.

nice and easy, I've done one thing of the first one.

- Bouldering - Iíd like to do Stomping with Bez, try the direct, do Liquid Sunshine, and do some harder problems away from home.

Not really. A slow to heal hamstring tweak and a finger niggle hampered my bouldering campaign, plus I got the opportunity to do more roped stuff and jumped at it.

Indoor/training
- better and more balanced shoulders. In terms of what this might look like, Iíd like to be able to hang off a bar one armed without assistance, lock off one armed at a few angles, continue to work on regaining and extending the tuck planche, and get to a point where say ten dips in a set feels ok.

I'll go optimistic on this, I've done a lot more basic shoulder and push work than in previous years, definitely regained and I think improved a little the tuck planche but not done much other benchmarking as yet

- Work on some weaknesses. I have many weaknesses, so specifically in this case Iíd like to get better at climbing face on, and at getting my weight onto feet that are high, away to the side or generally not underneath me. Working something into my circuits and doing a bunch on the board feel like obvious ways of approaching this.
- Try to build a stretching habit

Nope to both of these. I started with good intentions and did fairly ok but then the finger hampered the board time and the hamstring tweak made me reluctant to stretch it

Life
-  less doom scrolling. Iím usually quite tired by the evenings so have a bad habit of ending up vegetating staring at my phone - Instagram, FB, clips on YouTube, other similar wastes of time. I am not going to pretend to aim for wholesome but unrealistic - more training, heavy reading, or whatever - but even easy to read fiction would be a big improvement!

Optimistically this is orange, I have definitely done some other things but it is definitely a case of less rather than none

- Support MrsAJM in doing more stuff again. Between spending half her maternity leave in lockdown #1 doing full time childcare, then subsequent lockdowns, and the fact microAJM is quite a handful, she hasnít really managed to get back into things much (she used to climb a bit, do aerial circus, etc) and often feels a bit stuck in a rut. Would be great to help her out of it into something, whatever that might be!

Making some progress on this, I think, definitely been doing a bit more outdoor stuff as a family and also starting to create a bit more child free space for each other as well

Quite a few of us down from Sheff at Lulworth this weekend, AJM.

Not in shape at all but Iíll be throwing myself at Beast anyway.

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#160 Re: Aims for 2022
July 06, 2022, 07:54:42 pm
Ah cool - weather looks good for it! I'll have to see how I get on, my littlest has chickenpox atm so depends how that's going...

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#161 Re: Aims for 2022
July 06, 2022, 08:28:12 pm
My aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year.

If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!

To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate
finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.

Funny you say that, I find the fool piss compared to fallen idol (which I haven't done despite having a few sessions on it). I'm no crimp waif but Im not completely shit on small holds either.

Interesting. My finger strength on a 20mm edge is extremely poor for my climbing grade, but actually quite good on small edges. I've learnt that I need to be crimping at a very high angle and pulling outwards on the holds (like a pound shop Aidan), or I'm not very good! On my one visit to Roche, I had a power hour going right to left of Beef Buttress, trying all the independent lines up to 7B+. I started with Fallen Idol and nearly flashed it, but by the time I got to The Fool at the other end it felt pretty hard and I didn't quite finish it. It may be steady with adequate rest.

However, I'm dubious of your grading since getting to try Kleptomania recently; it definitely felt harder than 7A+ to me! In fact it feels quite a bit harder than either the fool or fallen idol and I didn't manage to clip the chains that session. Quality moves though, so it's not too disappointing having to return!



I concur with Remus  - Fallen Idol is miles harder than The Fool, and incomparably harder than the crux of Kelpto.

Classic "fit and actually quite strong sport climbers underestimate the boulder grade of a route / very strong but unfit boulderer underestimates the grade of a boulder problem / overestimates the boulder grade of a route" here.  :lol:

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#162 Re: Aims for 2022
July 06, 2022, 09:44:29 pm
Good effs those who are pushing along despite illness etc.


Climbing
More E-points than last year (so >184) current count: 108
Try some harder trad routes (i.e. take some entertaining wangers): let’s say five E6s in fair style two (although one was a bit high-bally) but a finger pulley and dodgy elbow have been holding me back so not going amazingly on this front
Get on some big multi-pitch adventures (stuff like Main Cliff, South Stack, anything where if you get stuck you have to abseil into the sea [but ideally don’t get stuck]) Going to have to pull my finger out here!
Three 8a’s and a couple of 8a+’s (the latter would be the first in five years) ha ha ha... finger and elbow definitely curtailed this
Maintain some semblance of strength not being humiliatingly weak throughout summer by going on the board or hanging at least weekly. At a stretch, dare I say it, end the year stronger than now. hilarious; what was I thinking?
Get stuck into some dirty offwidth somewhere yes! (an injured finger is good for something at last); do some DWS and use the opportunity to heckle “friends” into the sea not had the chance yet; bivvy / wildcamp and climb somewhere green-tick wankers don’t go not made the opportuniy yet; another new route not made the opportunity yet; do a route at Malham (last time I did was 2013!) nope; 10 trips in the van 3 so far (unless you count the times we've slept in it on the drive when the neighbours have been noisy - see below); Darkthrone not tried; go abroad nope; get to a bunch of new-to-me crags as this was great fun in 2021 a mighty 12!.


Non-climbing
Sound-proof the entire house from our friendly (but shouty) neighbours. New kitchen. no and no, but last weekend I did put the fence back up which blew down in November
Finish bloody PGDip before the fucker gets extended – yet again – to the following year so close to finishing this off now...
Keep on with general lifestyle changes and keep the passion for work, which is what makes it enjoyable I'll take this
Treat Marie even more than last year winning here
See more of friends – finding this harder than ever since March 2020 feel like I'm fighting a losing battle on this one at times

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#163 Re: Aims for 2022
July 11, 2022, 04:20:39 pm
Mixed bag for my half year round-up.

A year for getting my priorities straight, so I'm nicking one of Ged's.

Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now) sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.

Didn't make it till March - arrived in Feb, but nowhere near as early as the first one. My wife's back running again which is great, but room for improvement on not being a grumpy arse.

If the outcome of the above is less dramatic than round 1 was then :-

1. Make good use of 6 months paternity leave - house projects, climbing, running, whatever.

Started well, so bordering on green, but last 2 months have been a struggle to get much done due to eldest being ill, followed by me being ill then various holidays, so pretty much missed the last 6-8 weeks. Managed a fair amount of climbing in March/April and a few house and garden jobs.

2. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).

Next to nowt - afternoon at Stanage and an evening at Burbage North is the combined total of 6 months roped climbing. Difficult to predict when I'll get out, so hard to line partners up and not let them down last minute hence bouldering/running have been easier to fit in.

3. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - my recent output looks more like a cowpat than a pyramid, loads of low to mid sevens and nothing harder (apart from stuff that doesn't warrant its grade).

My bouldering pyramid looks more like a cowpat than ever! Loads of stuff up to 7B and nothing harder. Felt like I was going well in April and ready to commit to some harder stuff, but then illness and getting out infrequently means I've lost what form I had and feel like I've got a long way to go to get back to a decent level.

4. Keep on running. Two PBs on the road plus a decent effort at the English Fell Champs as it's my first year in a new age category. At least one category win in a local race.

Green for the road PBs, red for everything else. Amber overall seems fair.

Half marathon PB in January (1:18:30), 10-mile PB as part of the half marathon (59:29) and a 5-mile PB (29:23) as part of the local road league. All of this year's 5-mile courses were pretty hilly, so I've probably run faster for 5 miles as part of a flat 10k. Won the local road league for the V45 age group and was first V40 at a road 10k in February - came away with £50 in cash and £100 worth of kit, so pretty pleasing overall.

Fell season has been a shambles pretty much from start to finish. Ran well at first race of the year, then had 2 English Champs races where I've been ill and way off the pace followed by a third where I was running reasonably well before I picked up an injury in my foot on the first descent and had to hobble home. Decided to knock the rest of the series on the head and focus on road stuff for a couple of months.
 

Ged

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#164 Re: Aims for 2022
December 23, 2022, 11:04:14 pm
When's the traditional time to revisit this thread?

edshakey

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#165 Re: Aims for 2022
December 23, 2022, 11:08:52 pm
You're about 3 hours later than it was this time last year when the 2021 thread got reopened. So seems like fair game!

jwi

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#166 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 06:49:46 am
When's the traditional time to revisit this thread?

When all hope is gone

Bradders

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#167 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 07:52:54 am
When's the traditional time to revisit this thread?

Whenever you like! Still time though...  ;)

csl

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#168 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 09:48:35 am
Climb one of each discipline from my "lifetime list" ticklist
  • Jerry's Roof
  • Dominatrix
  • Some classic trad in Pembroke or N. Wales
  • A long rock route in the mountains

Train consistently
  • Do at least 90% of planned sessions
  • Climb 50% of my "#ldnclmbr" ticklist

Make outdoor sessions count
  • Have a plan and visit specific routes/boulders
  • Do at least 2 sessions on each goal route/boulder

Well let me get us started with some abject failure, then everyone else can feel good about themselves.

I did none of this, other than "A long rock route in the mountains" - went to Lofoten and had the trip of a lifetime with some great pals. Highlight was climbing Vestpillaren Direct in the midnight sun, it was 28ļ in the Arctic circle so we started climbing at around 10pm.

Maybe I'll have to make some more realistic goals next year.

Bradders

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#169 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 10:40:37 am
Trip of a lifetime sounds like a bigger win than any normal goal csl!

What's on the #ldnclmbr ticklist?

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#170 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 11:23:33 am
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.

I'll just roll these over to next year. However did at least get some practice in taking the Mick out of Fiend, and my handful of trips out were at least mostly in company. Here's to staying in one piece next year.

csl

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#171 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 11:29:12 am
Trip of a lifetime sounds like a bigger win than any normal goal csl!

What's on the #ldnclmbr ticklist?

It was great, and followed by having a baby a month later so the lack of success is fairly easily explained.

The ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.

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#172 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 11:39:45 am

The ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.

Intersperse that with a few board problems set with custom-designed black limba and olive wood crimps, fuelled by a diet heavy in natural wine and habanero granita and weíre halfway thereÖ

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#173 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 11:57:55 am
2 x 8A
10 x ≥7C
side splits

3 fails, but it has still been my best year of climbing in terms of climbing harder stuff.

Looking at the numbers, I managed:

1 x 8A that was probably legit
1 x 8A that I kneebarred down to 7C
1 x 8A that was downgraded to 7C+
1 x 8a route

Lots of sessions sunk into an 8A+ that was abandoned due to constant splits.

More sessions put into a different 8A+ that I'm still psyched for.

9 ≥ 7C

The biggest spanking was on the side splits goal. I've trained it 2-3 times each week and made almost no progress in a whole year  :furious:

I think next year's aims will be more process based rather than achievement.



Andy F

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#174 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 01:22:14 pm
1) Recover 100% from COVID
2) 7b+ sport
3) 7A boulder

Setting lowish goals (apart from No1) is the way forward. I'd rather be unambitious and successful nowadays, so much less stressful
1) success, but it took around 2 months
2) success, climbed my first 8a at the Tor aged 50, did some good stuff in the 7b+/7c range but injury curtailed the summer mostly
3)Fail, only went bouldering once and snow meant no top-outs

 

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