Can't find a post by me but have goals on my phone of:3x8A (0 but feeling close on more than 3, just terrible at going back to anything I don't do in a session)10x7C+ or above (11, so 1 goal done) 30x7C and above (20)5 nemisis from last year (2 so far)Need to get better at going back to things
Quote from: csl on December 24, 2022, 11:29:12 amThe ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.Intersperse that with a few board problems set with custom-designed black limba and olive wood crimps, fuelled by a diet heavy in natural wine and habanero granita and we’re halfway there…
The ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.
CLIMBING: Never really got going with building a good strength base only spring trips to Yorkshire were to Malham where I failed to finish off Soft Option.
Did Lager and Treebeard in two sessions each. Really enjoyed them both and they felt steady (sorry Bradders!)
Tourniquet at Kentmere. This felt nails
Good spot. Make that the other one . Goredale I mean
WinterStill hoping to get to the Alps, not looking like it will be this month as planned, might need to put back. Twice!More ski touring. Had some great days last year, but limited to "local". Be nice to get to West Coast, and never skied 'Coe. nope, skis didn't see Scottish Snow.Failing that, get on some winter routes if conditions for skiing don't come good. Nothing crazy, a few IIIs or IVs maybe, not swung an axe in about 8 years (apart from easy ski approaches). Might even upgrade kit, Vegas and Pirahnas look archaic.NopeRockLocal bouldering projects. SomeGet to more Scottish spots; Drumore / Torridon / Strathnairn etc. FailCouple of mountain trad routes. FailGet psyched for a local sport project. Actually clipped some bolts, but no projectongClimb the trad line I spotted locally on an unrecorded crag a few years back, that no-one has found yet. Nope Do some local DWS. yes! Had a cracking evening at Murrayheugh, weather was marginal drizzle but didn't really matter. Psyched for some of the bigger linesSeaany of;More surfing had a couple of great mornings in TenerifeSome more SUPing a bit, gorgeous day on Loch RannochJust getting in the sea more - it's only a 15 min walk from the door.been swimming once or twice, surfing noneceRunning1000 km total in the year 20 k over already with a week to spareotherwise; still undecided, might do another marathon or ultra, or maybe focus on a half marathon PB. only did one HM but PBed by nearly 3 minutes. PB in Illuminator tooNot neglect strength and conditioning and don't get injured again. rehabbing pulley PersonalGet face out of screens and read more. yupSort out finances. kind of - wheels in motionget house extension done. nope - no real progress - got a quote.
Quote from: seankenny on January 02, 2022, 06:46:09 pmEverything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment. Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year. Climbing- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready". - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times. If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:- 7a sport- E1/2Life- Get a job. - Support partner.- Improve Sinhala.1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health. 2) Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win. 3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment. Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year. Climbing- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready". - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times. If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:- 7a sport- E1/2Life- Get a job. - Support partner.- Improve Sinhala.
Quote from: seankenny on July 05, 2022, 04:40:23 pmQuote from: seankenny on January 02, 2022, 06:46:09 pmEverything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment. Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year. Climbing- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready". - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times. If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:- 7a sport- E1/2Life- Get a job. - Support partner.- Improve Sinhala.1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health. 2) Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win. 3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...1. Still sick but better than I was in the summer. Can manage 3500 steps a day as long as there’s not too much other stress that day. Generally feel a bit more alive. I’ve developed tinnitus but try not to let it get to me too often.I suppose I’m hopeful but I try to just take things week to week as anything else is too stressful. I’m doing a lot of meditation and breathwork which is a good thing to have incorporated into my life and which I wouldn’t have done otherwise.2. Didn’t make it to the wall. Have stretched daily since March which I’m very pleased about, even if it’s only keeping decrepitude at bay!3. No job - tried to do some tutoring work but it was too much. Supporting my partner as well as I can, that is a definite win for the year. Haven’t done any formal learning so my spoken Sinhala is the same but my understanding has definitely improved. It feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.
Trad:Continue exploring new (to me) mountain crags in Scotland and be climbing at a decent level to get the most from them.I probably didn't do quite as much as I imagined, but I had some real quality days out. Did Torro on Ben Nevis with Duncan, Steeple on the Shelterstone and most of the Long Reach at Etive Slabs before a slightly sketchy retreat in the rain. All new crags.Sport:The only real goal for next year is to tick Marlene at Dunkeld. I had a play this year and could climb all of the sections, it just needed a bit of work on stamina and recovery. I'm hoping that if walls stay open this time I'll be able to get this done quickly in the spring.Came back from Ceuse thinking this would be a breeze, only to realise it's quite a different style. Got a bit frustrated, felt like I needed to step away and do a bit of training, after falling at the final bolt a few times. Did the 7b+ routes instead and then after ticking one of them thought I'd have a burn since someone's clips were in it. Did it easily and wondered why I'd struggled (as ever). Great route and I've only got Silk Purse left for next year.Trip to Ceuse booked in from end of May for 2 weeks. I'd just like to be ticking some 7s without a big fuss really, moving well and enjoying good company would make for a great trip. I spent the first few days wobbling above bolts, took a real punter fall where my leg went behind the rope and between 2 bolts, resulting in a massive bruise and some ropeburn, but it all came good in the end. I felt like I'd remembered how to try hard by the end of the trip and got up quite a few low 7s.I also flashed a few 7bs in Chulilla later in the year.Training:I'd like to run at least 10km a week.I say this every year and then don't do it, but I did cycle to work consistently for 6 months and have been running more. I know I can step out of the door and do 10km without it being a big deal, which is a nice level of fitness.Fingerboarding - always good intentions and little action. Even once a fortnight would be progress.Got fingerboard mounted and have actually used it. Need to be more regularI've made more effort at the wall recently. I have a very low failure threshold indoors, so I'd like to make sure I attempt harder circuits and accept that I might not do any of the problems, trying to view it as every move done is training.Stamina sessions at Ratho in the lead up to Ceuse.Not as many stamina sessions as I could have, but I definitely tried a lot harder last winter.Life:Buy a house in the Central Belt.Bought a place in Bridge of Allan, have been mowing the lawn ever since.OH is desperate for a dog once we have a garden for it.I thought we'd sort this in the autumn, but there's a bit too much work needed on the garden first. This is in progress.Hopefully find work fulfilling and have a better idea of what it looks like long term. I've been working in care the last 18 months and I enjoy the job, but prospects seem limited, and I've been messed about and undervalued by employers which has really stressed me out. Have recently started a new role, so hopefully the new place is better in that regard. From July: New place was a total shitshow, unable to even sort rotas properly, pay holiday pay, send payslips, pay the correct wage, monitor Covid testing and more. I also spent 6 months working nights, which I hadn't signed up for. Have just finished grievance procedure (after the second round when my office fobbed me off) and been paid my full rate for the missing wages. Haven't been offered any shifts since I raised a grievance...After the above experience I put some time into researching care companies and looking for new jobs in that area. Sadly the problems seem to be industry-wide, so I've left the industry.The good news is that while I was working those night shifts I studied university modules in Software Development and Machine Learning, funded by the Scottish Government. I've now got myself onto a bootcamp course In Software Engineering funded by a recruiter who will place me with a company once I've finished it. Fingers crossed it works out, at the very least their training seems to be very thorough and builds on what I've learnged so far.Sort out better freelance working habits - both in terms of pitching, talking money and actually sitting down to get it done.I'm not quite where I want to be, and starting in Software Dev will scupper my freelance work for a while, but my habits definitely improved.The big one is to finally sort out the mess of a book I've been writing and get over my pure terror at sending it to people who might actually be able to give me useful and honest feedback!At a frustrating point where I've finally got my head around what I'm aiming for, have written a lot, had positive conversations with agents, but need time to get initial chapters into a good state to send them, and now don't have time! I feel in a better place to pick away at this slowly now, I had a total mental block for a while.I've got another series of Factor Two in the works, but I have no idea when it might be released at the moment. There are some good ideas on paper though and a few interviewees lined up.Lots of ideas down, no real progress or time to make them at the moment.
It feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.
Mixed bag for my half year round-up.A year for getting my priorities straight, so I'm nicking one of Ged's.Quote from: Ged on January 02, 2022, 09:45:33 amDo a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now) sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.Didn't make it till March - arrived in Feb, but nowhere near as early as the first one. My wife's back running again which is great, but room for improvement on not being a grumpy arse.If the outcome of the above is less dramatic than round 1 was then :-1. Make good use of 6 months paternity leave - house projects, climbing, running, whatever.Started well, so bordering on green, but last 2 months have been a struggle to get much done due to eldest being ill, followed by me being ill then various holidays, so pretty much missed the last 6-8 weeks. Managed a fair amount of climbing in March/April and a few house and garden jobs.2. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).Next to nowt - afternoon at Stanage and an evening at Burbage North is the combined total of 6 months roped climbing. Difficult to predict when I'll get out, so hard to line partners up and not let them down last minute hence bouldering/running have been easier to fit in.3. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - my recent output looks more like a cowpat than a pyramid, loads of low to mid sevens and nothing harder (apart from stuff that doesn't warrant its grade).My bouldering pyramid looks more like a cowpat than ever! Loads of stuff up to 7B and nothing harder. Felt like I was going well in April and ready to commit to some harder stuff, but then illness and getting out infrequently means I've lost what form I had and feel like I've got a long way to go to get back to a decent level.4. Keep on running. Two PBs on the road plus a decent effort at the English Fell Champs as it's my first year in a new age category. At least one category win in a local race.Green for the road PBs, red for everything else. Amber overall seems fair.Half marathon PB in January (1:18:30), 10-mile PB as part of the half marathon (59:29) and a 5-mile PB (29:23) as part of the local road league. All of this year's 5-mile courses were pretty hilly, so I've probably run faster for 5 miles as part of a flat 10k. Won the local road league for the V45 age group and was first V40 at a road 10k in February - came away with £50 in cash and £100 worth of kit, so pretty pleasing overall.Fell season has been a shambles pretty much from start to finish. Ran well at first race of the year, then had 2 English Champs races where I've been ill and way off the pace followed by a third where I was running reasonably well before I picked up an injury in my foot on the first descent and had to hobble home. Decided to knock the rest of the series on the head and focus on road stuff for a couple of months.
Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now) sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.