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Aims for 2022 (Read 29649 times)

yetix

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#175 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 02:00:24 pm
Can't find a post by me but have goals on my phone of:
3x8A (0 but feeling close on more than 3, just terrible at going back to anything I don't do in a session)
10x7C+ or above (11, so 1 goal done)
30x7C and above (20)
5 nemisis from last year (2 so far)

Need to get better at going back to things

Managed 2 8As.
-Fell off the last move of another many many times and was super close before the wet November period.
-Fell off one of the last hard moves of another twice I think.
-Nearly did foxy lady in about an hour in MW in mid summer and then nearly split and didn't get the chance to try it again as the skin damage never recovered (a lesson in over antihydral use)
-Did never ending story part 2 from a move in and could do the first move every go, but wasnt able to link it.

Managed to do 14 7C+s and up.
-big tick as thats way more than I'd ever done before.

So far managed 27 7Cs and above this year with 23 of them coming between April and July before I got pretty focused on projecting and training.
-Might still manage to do some more of these if the weather allows.

Managed to do 4 things I'd struggled on last year, was very close on a few others and may still manage to get this to 5 before the end of the year.

In retrospect I'm happy with my year, but I've definitely seen long periods of not feeling happy with how I've been climbing. Summer once again thrawted a good climbing bloc and then I found it hard to get going again really until earlier this week. May have to evaluate how I approach summer next year and not spend a trip abroad trying to project again because that sucks!

Bradders

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#176 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 02:52:39 pm

The ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.

Intersperse that with a few board problems set with custom-designed black limba and olive wood crimps, fuelled by a diet heavy in natural wine and habanero granita and weíre halfway thereÖ

Ha yes I was envisioning something involving climbing Captain Hook and Zippy's Traverse while it's raining, dabbing heavily on the crux of Jerry's Roof and then leaving enormous tick marks on Gorilla Warfare  :-\

Wellsy

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#177 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 03:53:45 pm
I didn't achieve any of my objectives, but they were all somewhat foolishly set anyway, and prior to my injury, and now I'm a bit wiser about it all and have more reasonable plans

I also am really loving bouldering and have never felt better about it, so all in all, having a good time :)

Ed booth

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#178 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 03:54:49 pm
CLIMBING:
-Planning on trianing through Jan and Feb and into March with the aim of hitting Malham in the Spring. Would love to finish off Predator and really want to climb Bat Route. Plan to go on other routes there too to help build fitness and dial into the style again. Predator not fully my style so if it's taking ages and using up dry crag days I may just crack on with Bat Route. Never really got going with building a good strength base only spring trips to Yorkshire were to Malham where I failed to finish off Soft Option.
-Get back to doing more Fr8a's and above. Think I only did a few in 2021. Aim for >10 Think I only did a repeat of 1 8a at Dinbren and that was it this year !
-Whilst training this next few months will try to get out locally and want to finish off Sub-Moron (Tom Newman's Fb8a at Grinshill) and maybe the odd day out elsewhere to keep the motivation up. Fail , tried a few times but cycling started taking over early.
-Hopefully carry some form and fitness out of the Spring and just enjoy some good climbing around the country through the summer. I've got loads of trad and sport routes that have been on my wish list for the past 5 years now. With the kids I've had to manage my expectations better so I will be grateful for just doing anything really, I just want to feel like I've pushed myself. Generally just got totally bogged down with loads of cycle prep so the climbing took a back seat resulting in little action.
-Finish some things on the Slate like Quarryman Groove (and should try the rest too) and Wall Within. Didnít get back on Quarryman but did do couple of cool 7cís and got close on Wish You Were Here . Tried Wall Within but both the latter routes were wet .
- I would like to try Unchi Maka on the Sialouze in the French Alps if I can create an oppurtunity to get out there at the right time with somebody psyched. Also the Brandler Hasse in the Dollys (see below) Didnít try either. Glad I didnít try BH, would have been a disaster/epic (see further down).
-Couple of routes that I never got back on after getting close in a session are Supercool and Nemesis so be good to finish these off. Didnít go on either. Was at Cornice in early summer when it was dry but I didnít have any board form and after nearly doing it in a sesh year before couldnít really see the point knowing I would struggle on the moves without the relevant power. Will make sure Iím ready to pounce for this one next in 2023.
-If I get to Pembroke and am feeling fit and have any trad momentum would be keen to try From A Distance .

LIFE:
-Got a 1 and a 3 year old so I'm always trying to get the balance right of doing my bit at home to maximise time away from the family, and juggling it all with work and being knackered. Relative success . Both sleeping through and that means more energy for my wife and I to be able to do more with our time off .
-Once early winter climbing training is out of the way and I'm getting outside more will start cycling again in preparation for hopefully doing the Dolomites Haute Route event in September. I'd like to tie this into to doing something like the Brandler Hasse which I have always wanted to do. Don't want it to take over my climbing but I'm crap at back to back days of sport climbing anyway so mixing it up with the odd bike day here and there shouldn't be too detrimental, and it feels good to get fit. Bike training went well and had a great time doing the Haute Route. My Brother and I both finishing top 50 after a big days racing up and over mountain passes through stunning dolomites scenery.
I suppose it should have been expected but the trainjng completely took over my climbing and didnít really notice my climbing form dropping off . At the end of our trip in Dollies we had time for a few routes and I had been thinking of Brandler Hasse. We tried Yellow Wall instead . This is where I realised how not climbing all summer turned out to not be very conducive to staying in form. Had to bail after 4 pitches with terminal pump. In hindsight brandler hasse would have been a ridiculous prospect with the form (lack of ) that I had following a summer of biking.

All in all , a fun year , but really looking forward to getting back on it with the climbing in 2023. I guess most of the goals will stay the same but thatís for another post.

Will Hunt

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#179 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 04:16:27 pm
CLIMBING:
 Never really got going with building a good strength base only spring trips to Yorkshire were to Malham where I failed to finish off Soft Option.

Don't beat yourself up, Ed. A trip to the right crag and I'm sure you'll fly up it.

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#180 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 05:57:08 pm
Not too bad on the whole.

Sport Climbing
1) Spend some time on another 8c. Probably Cry Freedom if spring conditions allow me to get on the top bit. I am keen for Bats and Dogs too but working it is a nightmare currently with all the Rainman aspirants so might wait until they've got it ticked. Had a few sessions on Cry Freedom but got absolutely nowhere with the top crux. It felt about 7C+ and I only did the hard move once in three full sessions trying it. Sacked it off as it was going to be at least 8c+ for me and possibly harder. Went on Unjustified in the autumn and enjoyed that much more. Its also much easier! Keen for Bats and Dogs after that.
2) Do The Groove, and as a result complete the Triple Crown. Nope. Did Something Stupid though!
3) A Kilnsey 8b. Maybe Stolen or Showtime. My ukc says I have but I haven't; Grooved Arete is never 8b.
4) Go back to Ceuse. Tick. great two week trip.

Trad
1) Make sure I keep doing some as I love it and it gives my climbing better balance than just bolt clipping all the time. enjoyed exploring the lancs quarries and some dartmoor granite especially.
2) Try an E6. Probably a Pembroke one that is safe. I fully expect to fall off but would like to at least get on one. Suggestions welcome! never tried anything hard.
3) Try to do some more trad in Scotland. never really had the chance.

Bouldering (these are mostly rolled over from last year).
1) It was noticeable how little appetite I had for bouldering projects in 2021 which resulted in no gritstone 7Cs despite being close on a few. It would be good to finally do one again as I haven't climbed a grit 7C since 2019. Keen for Lager Lager Lager. Did Lager and Treebeard in two sessions each. Really enjoyed them both and they felt steady (sorry Bradders!)
2) Try Tourniquet at Kentmere. This looks like a decent long term 8A (?  :worms:) candidate and its not that far from me now. Pulled on once. It felt nails but didn't try it properly.
3) Go and try Cashmere Cat with a big team. still want to do this.

Training
1) Get fingerboard up in new house and get back on it. I have been really lazy the last few months and got distracted by board climbing after being quite diligent for a year. much better than last year!
2) bodyweight hang on bottom middle slot. lol. this feels further and further away!
3) maintain shoulder strengthening and hamstring rehab. Keep stretching. sporadic bursts of conditioning but effective when I did it.

Life
1) Get dog. rehomed a labrador last week!
2) Go on a holiday abroad with partner. went to spain in Jan and RRG in October.
2) peck away at house DIY starting to become clear where all my time went...
2) Don't get kicked off the PhD in the first year. now the real work starts...

Bradders

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#181 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 06:17:57 pm
Did Lager and Treebeard in two sessions each. Really enjoyed them both and they felt steady (sorry Bradders!)

Haha that's okay, we all have our strengths  ;)

Tourniquet at Kentmere. This felt nails

 ;D

Ed booth

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#182 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 06:47:21 pm
Quote from: Will Hunt
Don't beat yourself up, Ed. A trip to the right crag and I'm sure you'll fly up it.
[/quote

Good spot. Make that the other one . Goredale I mean

Bradders

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#183 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 08:09:44 pm
Training
- >12 sessions on boards other than my own - ended up doing this easily, had something like 20 including ancap sessions on the Pudsey Depot 30'. Funnily enough though, I'm really pleased with how my own board climbs now.

- Keep up endurance training over winter; would be great to get back on a rope in spring and not feel like I'm starting from scratch again endurance wise. Actually quite enjoy the basic suffering of foot on campussing. - plenty of longer endurance in the first half of the year and weekly ancap sessions in the second half.

- Minimise missed training sessions - Yep, big tick. Done almost everything week in, week out!

- Stretch / yoga 5x per week - not so good with this. I don't know why it's so hard to just do a bit instead of sitting on the sofa in the evening!

Climbing
- 100 Vpoints in a day at Almscliff, Caley or Earl; been threatening to have a go at this for years, Caley feels most likely so hopefully conditions allow in February / March time. - distracted by other things throughout winter / early spring and then got injured. Only been to Caley twice this year, and didn’t climb on one of those! I did however go to Almscliff last week (for the first time this year) and the fire was definitely rekindled. Will be a nice thing to do in between training in January.

- Do more things likely to take 2-4 sessions; particularly sport but boulders too. Last year did a lot of 2nd or 3rd go "in a day" redpoints which was fine as a way of racking up routes but I suspect that doing harder routes would actually be more beneficial both physically and tactically. - no sport, but still finding this so hard to get right on the boulders. I've done 12 problems this year which have taken more than a session though, which actually looking back isn't bad for me, and is more than the last couple of years. Still finding it a tricky line to find between 2-4 session things and longer term projects. However....

- Get better at 'sealing the deal' - adding this in as I wrote it down but for some reason didn't post it originally. This comes up in all sorts of situations; e.g. done all the moves just need to link, done the problem in halves just need to link, do the problem in a couple of goes, do it first go of second session, do it at the end of a session rather than let it spill over to another, etc. The idea being that it's better to get something over the line than let it fester. Lots of examples of having managed to seal the deal in all those situations this year, which is something I'm really pleased with! In fact virtually all of the harder things I've done have involved this skill in one way or another.

- Keep doing easier routes but must either onsight, flash or walk away; no 2nd go redpoints of anything <7b. Would love to get better at flashing things at least, given how tricky UK onsighting can be. Walking away will be tricky for the ego! - nope. I've done an awful lot of low 7 boulder problems though, and flashed a 7B, 2 7A+s and 4 7As, which I'm pleased with as I rarely flash things.

- Go abroad again! Font, Swiss and / or Ireland - yes, great big tick. Unfortunately picked up a bad wrist injury a week before Font (I couldn't hang from a fingerboard...), but still had a great time doing loads of climbing, ending up climbing 5 days in a row, then had a fantastic time in SW Ireland doing loads of quality problems and even a clutch of FAs. Big plans for next year on this front.

- >100 sessions on rock - 80 as of today, so not bad at all. Always going to be tricky navigating early parenthood and there have been several poor decisions in there but overall it's gone well.

- >10 sessions bouldering on Eastern lime
- >10 sessions bouldering on central Peak lime
- yep, something like 30 overall, including lots in the Castleton area which proved a lot of fun.

Grade Chasing
- 8A - nope. Last move dropper a couple of times on Jelly of the Beast before the season closed on it (how not to seal the deal!) so will be back for it next year! Rightly downgraded The Golden Shot (although it's still not 7C!!). Didn't try any others!

- 8a+ (or at least try one) - nope. Got to the penultimate move of Kleptomania in a session but never went back (one of only two sport sessions this year)

- >10 7C and up - done 12 so pleased with that

Life
- Go part time; I'm in the extremely fortunate position where this is both possible at work and, should be, financially viable. It's a biggy as it should help everything else on this list. It's already all agreed with a 3 month test period from February to end of April, so fingers crossed it works out. It's still pretty scary given that whenever I look at the news there are dire warnings about inflation / cost of living, etc. - technically I'm back to full time but very lucky to be able to work really flexibly.

- Get made permanent at current grade at work; been on various secondments at this level since December 2018! Current role looks good, management saying all the right things and the work is certainly there to be done, so fingers crossed. Part time shouldn't affect it, and may actually help. - Yes, big fat tick

- Be a good husband and father; last on the list but really it's first y'know. - I can't really answer this one. I hope so though!

Ged

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#184 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 08:36:01 pm


1. Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now), and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse, and also not getting fat.

Tick. I read this out to my wife earlier and she confirmed I have achieved this. Apart from occasionally being a grumpy arse.

2. Climb at least one 8a. Have done at least one a year since 2008, and not about to let that slip now! I'd like it to be the big link up from the tench at potato, but will have to see how the year pans out time wise.
Half tick. Did Maris Piper at potato head, but it's probably 7c+ if I'm honest. It is also absolutely amazing so who gives a shit. Started putting a bit of time into the big link from the trench, and added the extra bolts needed, but never managed to get the time on it in the autumn due to family stuff. Very keen for it next year.

3. Keep strong enough at home o the board to be able to bust out the occasional 7B boulder problem.

Haven't bouldered outdoors once, but got back into getting to the wall with wife, so feeling in not bad shape.

4. Run as much as possible, maybe do something big late summer

Got pretty fit and signed up for an ultra in June, then predictably got carried away and re injured my calf. No running for 3 months which was annoying, but it did kick me back into doing some climbing. Calf is still feeling niggly, but been getting out again a bit.

That's it really. Main goal for the year is to keep expectations for my own stuff low, and enjoy the crap out of it when I do get out to do stuff. Whilst repeating the mantra "it's just a phase"

I feel like this was a tick.

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#185 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 09:25:41 pm
General
- Avoid (m)any negative spirals about injury, other life stresses, etc.
2022 went pretty well on this front, certainly compared to 2020/2021. I even managed to (mostly) look on my first pulley injury in a long while as a "win" since it was a marker that I'd got back to pulling hard enough on small enough holds to hurt a pulley , which hadn't been on the agenda for quite some time! 

UK
- Do 2 or more Kilnsey roof proj/link ideas (Preposterous direct exit, Preposterous direct entrance, Guns direct, Premonition/Epic, Showtime Epic... some of these need cleaning and a few extra bolts)
Didn't get in the roof this summer, will have to roll to 2023
- Cornice proj (need to bolt it first)
Became Malcolm in the Middle; only a new long boulder really but some cool moves
- Aladdin, King of Thieves (if finger can take it)
Didn't get to Giggleswick

Abroad (hard to be too specific as I'm not sure where we'll go yet)
- Climb lots of fun things in fun places
- Redpoint some hard stuff (>=8c+)
Managed 8c+ in UK, Spain and Canada, and in a variety of styles which was cool
- Onsight some hard stuff (>=8b)
- Flash some hard stuff (>=8b+)
Lots of 8b onsight/flash and a couple of 8b+ onsights this year. God I love first-try climbing on long steep routes! My fave thing is sitting in a knee at 40m thinking "damn I wish my calves/feet/core were fitter and this last bit didn't look so droppable!" then fighting through to the end. More please!

SA Chris

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#186 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 10:24:41 pm
Winter

Still hoping to get to the Alps, not looking like it will be this month as planned, might need to put back. Twice!

More ski touring. Had some great days last year, but limited to "local". Be nice to get to West Coast, and never skied 'Coe. nope, skis didn't see Scottish Snow.

Failing that, get on some winter routes if conditions for skiing don't come good. Nothing crazy, a few IIIs or IVs maybe, not swung an axe in about 8 years (apart from easy ski approaches). Might even upgrade kit, Vegas and Pirahnas look archaic.

Nope

Rock

Local bouldering projects. Some

Get to more Scottish spots; Drumore / Torridon / Strathnairn etc. Fail

Couple of mountain trad routes. Fail

Get psyched for a local sport project. Actually clipped some bolts, but no projectong

Climb the trad line I spotted locally on an unrecorded crag a few years back, that no-one has found yet. Nope

Do some local DWS. yes! Had a cracking evening at Murrayheugh, weather was marginal drizzle but didn't really matter. Psyched for some of the bigger lines

Sea

any of;

More surfing had a couple of great mornings in Tenerife

Some more SUPing a bit, gorgeous day on Loch Rannoch

Just getting in the sea more - it's only a 15 min walk from the door.
been swimming once or twice, surfing nonece

Running

1000 km total in the year 20 k over already with a week to spare

otherwise; still undecided, might do another marathon or ultra, or maybe focus on a half marathon PB. only did one HM but PBed by nearly 3 minutes. PB in Illuminator too

Not neglect strength and conditioning and don't get injured again. rehabbing pulley

Personal

Get face out of screens and read more. yup

Sort out finances. kind of - wheels in motion

get house extension done. nope - no real progress - got a quote.

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#187 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 10:39:52 pm
[b]Climbing[/b]

Get myself in sufficient shape to climb 3 E5s onsight - it would be good to do some stuff in the hard but safe category.


Scraped my way up a handful of E5s, but they were either soft or short head pointy things.  Overall felt like it wasnít a year when I was really crushing, but had a few good days out.

[b]Life[/b]

Negotiate a pay rise, or change jobs, while maintaining home life with the family.
[/quote]


Got offered a new job and then negotiated a nearly 50% pay rise to stay where I am. Of course a chunk of that has since been eroded by inflation, but still canít complain. The Mrs hasnít chucked me yet either so I think doing ok on the home front.

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#188 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 10:42:31 pm
Climbing

Get myself in sufficient shape to climb 3 E5s onsight - it would be good to do some stuff in the hard but safe category.


Scraped my way up a handful of E5s, but they were either soft or short head pointy things.  Overall felt like it wasnít a year when I was really crushing, but had a few good days out.

Life

Negotiate a pay rise, or change jobs, while maintaining home life with the family.


Got offered a new job and then negotiated a nearly 50% pay rise to stay where I am. Of course a chunk of that has since been eroded by inflation, but still canít complain. The Mrs hasnít chucked me yet either so I think doing ok on the home front.

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#189 Re: Aims for 2022
December 24, 2022, 11:37:36 pm
Trad

- At least one E3, with a suitably shaped pyramid below that.
Should maybe be a red, but given where I was halfway through the year, I'm happy with peaking at E2, with a decent shape below that. Maybe could have tried an E3 if I started earlier but barely tied in before the year was already halfway through
- Don't shy away from non-slabs: bit flimsy, but can't (shouldn't?) just climb slabs forever. Another potentially iffy one, but in fairness I think I just happened to end up in less steep places. Maybe that's my fault though!

Bouldering

- At least one 7A+, with a suitably shaped pyramid below that. Can't argue this one. Not any genuine 7s but a load of 6s. No psyche to get stronger for bouldering when every time I go out my skin limits attempts massively. Got pretty good at flashing stuff which does help somewhat. Might not have to go with no aim next year and see what happens, although this aim hardly pushed me on.

Sport

- At least one 7a+, less emphasis on the pyramid since I don't see myself doing a lot this year, but we'll see how it goes. Barely done any, but got extremely close to one 7a+. Would be interesting to see how I'd get on if I actually tried to get into route climbing shape
- Keep on top of endurance more, as a general good practice/not feeling like a complete punter every time I tie in. Decent til big depot shut, then couldn't be bothered with circuit boards

Training

- Fingerboard more than now (almost never). No particular goals, need to find my current level first. NOPE. Hard fail
- Actually campus something. Honestly even 1-2 on big rungs would be good, I'm reaching the limit of my zero-power approach to climbing, and it's definitely holding me back on things that should be routine. Might have even regressed!

Running

- Do a mountain marathon (probably Snowdonia trail marathon in July). Woohoo! Very happy with this (changed my whole year really). Did that race, decent time and placing given the conditions. Will be doing similar and more once my knee issues go away.
- Run at least one leg of the BGR, as a little taster (long long long term goal) No, but did runs of similar length and terrain, so not a total failure. Even more psyched to get this ticked in 2023

Other

- Visit at least 15 new crags Too easy. I counted approx 30, without trying to visit new ones just for the sake of it. There's a lot of rock out there, man!
- Help my partner with her goals I believe so. Not sure she necessarily achieved them, but I think I did all I reasonably could to assist.
- Go on a walking/scrambling/running trip to Scotland Was just climbing due to injury but it happened! And planning the next one already. Tis a wonderful place
- Come up with an idea of how these grade pyramids should look! Nahhh
- Actually make a bit of effort to meet some new partners, just been a bit lazy on that front since moving.
Another nahhh but on second thoughts, I'm going to hijack my own thought process because I joined a running club in order to meet new people for running, and it worked! So I made the same effort, just in a different sport  ;D

Overall, the running has changed everything. Much more psyche for that than climbing for long stretches of the year, so I naturally put less effort into climbing training - still got out plenty though. Still formulating plans for next year, and will see how the two balance each other.

It's amazing how a year can feel so long and so short at the same time.

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#190 Re: Aims for 2022
December 25, 2022, 09:48:29 am
Climbing

- Heal current injuries and remain uninjured for the year got uninjured, got reinsured. Almost uninjured again :D
- 5 V9s One questionable one this year but without the latest injury this could have been a possibility
- V10 Next year. Also need to learn how to project
- Go on at least three trips (weekend +) Wedding and other priorities killed this. 2023 is looking like a fantastic year for trips.

Training

- Get down to 10% BW assistance hangs on one-arm BM2k slot I did achieve this before my latest injury!
- Get weight down to 80kg yes for summer crush, back up for the winter weight :D

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#191 Re: Aims for 2022
December 25, 2022, 10:10:49 am
Finally realised that everything climbing revolves around having a functioning / productive life, so my priorities are now (and will hopefully continue to be) heavily skewed in that direction....

Not convinced my life will ever in an entirely conventionally functional way, but have at least developed a better sense of my own ideas about worthwhile productivity.


Enjoy and work hard at new job and don't fizzle out / get (too) distracted, especially in the fist three months.

Got ditched by those arseholes at Easter. Probably partly as a result of failing to listen seriously to a virtual teenager who couldnít string a sentence together without using the words ďgranularĒ and ďiterateĒ. Treating this as a win though, partly because it was hopefully a nail in the coffin of the idea of wanting to work in that kind of organisation again, and partly because Iíve dumped thinly-disguised versions of the worst of them into a sitcom script / pitch which will either be appearing on your screens in the not-too-distant future or at least function as a highly rewarding cathartic self-help exercise.


Sort out house then sell it, and move on like a grown-up.

Lost a chunk of this year making this happen, including a final six weeks of solid crap clearance, trips to the tip, and general mental exhaustion.

Generally approach projects sequentially, rather than trying to do everything at once and never finishing anything.

Realistically Iím never ever going to figure out how to one thing at a time, but have got much better at moving things toward completion.

Refine / perfect the kids-fiction-into-phone-whilst-walking writing technique. Also organise / perfect the Chromebook / folding chair / writing rucksack. Finish kids novel. Finish NF book that's long overdue. Figure out next thing when they're both done.

Refined the former. Half that novel was done and polished by May but due to mix up agent only got it a few weeks ago and I need to sort out the second half. Reread it last week and I still think itís great, so hopefully something will happen soon. Adult NF is still unfinished but thatís the editorís fault and itís due to come out in June so will get back on it post Margalef. Have another illustrated kids thing plus sitcom to finish so taking all this as a win.

Walk more / most days / run if lbs to shift or there's less time - this has been a big help in 2021

Arthritic heel scuppered this for a bit, but still managed a bit. More of this and some running required next year.

Spend the first six months focusing on work, organisation and training.
Spend the second six months trying to get away / trips with the kids / going climbing lots.

Lost so much of this year to house move and life admin that this has to be an unavoidable fail.

Climb with lots of people I've not climbed with before, climb at lots of new places. Not worry about grades*.

Because of previous Iím carrying this over. But definitely worrying less about grades (more about routes that just happen to be at certain grades.)

Facilitate daughter's aim to do lots of routes, and figure out some options for her first trad leads.

She did her first sport leads and was up for trad but we didnít end up doing any.

*Privately carrying over last year's aims, but at a much reduced priority level...

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#192 Re: Aims for 2022
December 25, 2022, 11:04:08 pm
Poor show for 2022. Two injuries, one surgery & roller coaster last quarter.

Outside Climbing
30 or more days outside climbing.
Managed 17

Onsight 6c
Onsight 6b+
10 easy Redpoints 6b to 6c+
Redpoint 7a in a day

Indoor climbing (Onsight/Flash)  :no: I know, who counts indoor routes?? Beggars canít be choosers.
50x 6a =30
40x 6a+ = 25
30x 6b =5
20x 6b+ =3
5x 6c  (Redpoint) 1

Moonboards
Moonboard 2016 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

Moonboard 2017 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

Moonboard 2019 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

50 Degree Board
4x 6b or harder

Stopped going to the school after injury & surgery. Too brutal for recovery

Work
Starting building my coaching alongside my nursing.
Get 5 clients for coaching. ✅
Get 1 team for coaching.✅


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#193 Re: Aims for 2022
December 26, 2022, 10:50:18 am
Climbing:
1. Get more efficient on ice (if the opportunity actually arises in Scotland this year) hmm, maybe...I don't have any great ambitions here, I'd just like for guiding grade Vs to feel more casual than it does

2. Do more sport than usual, aim to improve % chance of flashing 7bs (taking inspiration from Ondra's high risk approach) and quick ascents of high 7s. Maybe another low 8 if one happens to inspire, but that's a lesser priority. Started the year well in Leonidio flashing up to (soft) 7b+ but didn't really follow up the rest of the year...only managed the same grade in the UK after a putting-the-clips-in go, and didn't do as much as I'd intended

3. Get back to a better place with trad, i.e. in a good headspace for on-sighting E5s. Hoping the sport approach will help with this, though also aware that trad mileage is often important. So make the trad days count. Again made a promising start to the summer with a handful of E5 on sight/flash but totally tailed off and lost motivation for all but the most sporty and least faffy types of trad


4. A bit of Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free stuff, because I really missed this during the pandemic. Finally in October did a trip to Val di Mello, taking in a couple of not-so-hard but satisfying classics and biting off a bit more than we could chew on Monte Qualido, then a brilliant day on the Teufelstalwand in Switz. So not loads but a green tick

5. A few good days of DWS. Zilch this year

6. If not enjoying it, don't force it, just do something else. This part I haven't struggled with lately, but aim to keep a good balance. Still struggle a bit to be fully accepting of dips in motivation. I do just do other things and climb less when I'm not into it, but climbing still seems to take up undue bandwidth

Non-climbing
1. Feel better/be healthier than last year, whatever that takes. Not sure what I've done right or whether I've thrown off some lurking post viral thing, but fingers crossed seem to be over the spells of unexplained fatigue that were getting me down intermittently over a couple of years

2. Decide where I want to live in a semi-permanent way, then take steps to do so. Shelved for financial reasons!

3. Get better at musical stuff. It's not hard from such a low starting point :)

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#194 Re: Aims for 2022
December 26, 2022, 01:25:26 pm
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:

- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment.

Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year.

Climbing
- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.
- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready".
 - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times.

If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:
- 7a sport
- E1/2


Life
- Get a job.
- Support partner.
- Improve Sinhala.



1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health.

2)  :'( Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win.

3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!

I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...

1. Still sick but better than I was in the summer. Can manage 3500 steps a day as long as thereís not too much other stress that day. Generally feel a bit more alive. Iíve developed tinnitus but try not to let it get to me too often.

I suppose Iím hopeful but I try to just take things week to week as anything else is too stressful. Iím doing a lot of meditation and breathwork which is a good thing to have incorporated into my life and which I wouldnít have done otherwise.

2. Didnít make it to the wall. Have stretched daily since March which Iím very pleased about, even if itís only keeping decrepitude at bay!

3. No job - tried to do some tutoring work but it was too much. Supporting my partner as well as I can, that is a definite win for the year. Havenít done any formal learning so my spoken Sinhala is the same but my understanding has definitely improved.

It feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.

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#195 Re: Aims for 2022
December 26, 2022, 04:07:17 pm
I will say something I am pleased with is that I got badly injured, but I then rejabbed it, kept , and came back stronger. It didn't push me away from the discipline of bouldering that I love. Whatever failed aspirations I has for the year, on that front I did a good job

I also got therapy (hugely helpful) and a new job. I made a lot of life changes that I needed to make. So overall I'm proud of that!

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#196 Re: Aims for 2022
December 26, 2022, 05:05:16 pm
Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:

- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment.

Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year.

Climbing
- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.
- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready".
 - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times.

If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:
- 7a sport
- E1/2


Life
- Get a job.
- Support partner.
- Improve Sinhala.



1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health.

2)  :'( Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win.

3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!

I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...

1. Still sick but better than I was in the summer. Can manage 3500 steps a day as long as thereís not too much other stress that day. Generally feel a bit more alive. Iíve developed tinnitus but try not to let it get to me too often.

I suppose Iím hopeful but I try to just take things week to week as anything else is too stressful. Iím doing a lot of meditation and breathwork which is a good thing to have incorporated into my life and which I wouldnít have done otherwise.

2. Didnít make it to the wall. Have stretched daily since March which Iím very pleased about, even if itís only keeping decrepitude at bay!

3. No job - tried to do some tutoring work but it was too much. Supporting my partner as well as I can, that is a definite win for the year. Havenít done any formal learning so my spoken Sinhala is the same but my understanding has definitely improved.

It feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.

Bloody hell Sean. That sounds like bad hand indeed, and one that you are dealing with in an incredibly impressive way. I hope your recovery continues, even if it's slower than you'd like. Here's to appreciating the small victories in life.

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#197 Re: Aims for 2022
December 26, 2022, 05:34:50 pm

Trad:
Continue exploring new (to me) mountain crags in Scotland and be climbing at a decent level to get the most from them.
I probably didn't do quite as much as I imagined, but I had some real quality days out. Did Torro on Ben Nevis with Duncan, Steeple on the Shelterstone and most of the Long Reach at Etive Slabs before a slightly sketchy retreat in the rain. All new crags.

Sport:
The only real goal for next year is to tick Marlene at Dunkeld. I had a play this year and could climb all of the sections, it just needed a bit of work on stamina and recovery. I'm hoping that if walls stay open this time I'll be able to get this done quickly in the spring.
Came back from Ceuse thinking this would be a breeze, only to realise it's quite a different style. Got a bit frustrated, felt like I needed to step away and do a bit of training, after falling at the final bolt a few times. Did the 7b+ routes instead and then after ticking one of them thought I'd have a burn since someone's clips were in it. Did it easily and wondered why I'd struggled (as ever). Great route and I've only got Silk Purse left for next year.

Trip to Ceuse booked in from end of May for 2 weeks. I'd just like to be ticking some 7s without a big fuss really, moving well and enjoying good company would make for a great trip. :)
I spent the first few days wobbling above bolts, took a real punter fall where my leg went behind the rope and between 2 bolts, resulting in a massive bruise and some ropeburn, but it all came good in the end. I felt like I'd remembered how to try hard by the end of the trip and got up quite a few low 7s.
I also flashed a few 7bs in Chulilla later in the year.


Training:
I'd like to run at least 10km a week.
I say this every year and then don't do it, but I did cycle to work consistently for 6 months and have been running more. I know I can step out of the door and do 10km without it being a big deal, which is a nice level of fitness.

Fingerboarding - always good intentions and little action. Even once a fortnight would be progress.
Got fingerboard mounted and have actually used it. Need to be more regular

I've made more effort at the wall recently. I have a very low failure threshold indoors, so I'd like to make sure I attempt harder circuits and accept that I might not do any of the problems, trying to view it as every move done is training.
Stamina sessions at Ratho in the lead up to Ceuse.
Not as many stamina sessions as I could have, but I definitely tried a lot harder last winter.

Life:
Buy a house in the Central Belt.
Bought a place in Bridge of Allan, have been mowing the lawn ever since.
OH is desperate for a dog once we have a garden for it.
I thought we'd sort this in the autumn, but there's a bit too much work needed on the garden first. This is in progress.

Hopefully find work fulfilling and have a better idea of what it looks like long term. I've been working in care the last 18 months and I enjoy the job, but prospects seem limited, and I've been messed about and undervalued by employers which has really stressed me out. Have recently started a new role, so hopefully the new place is better in that regard.
From July: New place was a total shitshow, unable to even sort rotas properly, pay holiday pay, send payslips, pay the correct wage, monitor Covid testing and more. I also spent 6 months working nights, which I hadn't signed up for. Have just finished grievance procedure (after the second round when my office fobbed me off) and been paid my full rate for the missing wages. Haven't been offered any shifts since I raised a grievance...
After the above experience I put some time into researching care companies and looking for new jobs in that area. Sadly the problems seem to be industry-wide, so I've left the industry.
The good news is that while I was working those night shifts I studied university modules in Software Development and Machine Learning, funded by the Scottish Government. I've now got myself onto a bootcamp course In Software Engineering funded by a recruiter who will place me with a company once I've finished it. Fingers crossed it works out, at the very least their training seems to be very thorough and builds on what I've learnged so far.


Sort out better freelance working habits - both in terms of pitching, talking money and actually sitting down to get it done.
I'm not quite where I want to be, and starting in Software Dev will scupper my freelance work for a while, but my habits definitely improved.
The big one is to finally sort out the mess of a book I've been writing and get over my pure terror at sending it to people who might actually be able to give me useful and honest feedback!
At a frustrating point where I've finally got my head around what I'm aiming for, have written a lot, had positive conversations with agents, but need time to get initial chapters into a good state to send them, and now don't have time! I feel in a better place to pick away at this slowly now, I had a total mental block for a while.
I've got another series of Factor Two in the works, but I have no idea when it might be released at the moment. There are some good ideas on paper though and a few interviewees lined up.
Lots of ideas down, no real progress or time to make them at the moment.

This year has been pretty good, at least in terms of overall trajectory, despite the downs or frustration. Looking back from here it seems obvious how much I underestimated the impact of having yet another shit employer on my mental health. I've not had the best luck over the years with employers not paying properly, bullying staff and gaslighting me when I've raised issues. It's had a big impact on my writing and other freelance work, where I spend a huge amount of time second-guessing myself, and then end up too stressed to actually complete work. I feel in a much better place with this at the moment, although I don't actually have time to take on any freelance work! [Edit - The above employer issues don't relate to freelance work, they just leak into it. Freelance employers have been pretty good.]

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#198 Re: Aims for 2022
December 26, 2022, 05:57:30 pm

It feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.

Crikey, your year puts most of our frustrations and failings in perspective a bit. Hope the next one is a lot better for you!

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#199 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2022, 11:37:58 am
Mixed bag for my half year round-up.

A year for getting my priorities straight, so I'm nicking one of Ged's.

Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now) sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.

Didn't make it till March - arrived in Feb, but nowhere near as early as the first one. My wife's back running again which is great, but room for improvement on not being a grumpy arse.

If the outcome of the above is less dramatic than round 1 was then :-

1. Make good use of 6 months paternity leave - house projects, climbing, running, whatever.

Started well, so bordering on green, but last 2 months have been a struggle to get much done due to eldest being ill, followed by me being ill then various holidays, so pretty much missed the last 6-8 weeks. Managed a fair amount of climbing in March/April and a few house and garden jobs.

2. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).

Next to nowt - afternoon at Stanage and an evening at Burbage North is the combined total of 6 months roped climbing. Difficult to predict when I'll get out, so hard to line partners up and not let them down last minute hence bouldering/running have been easier to fit in.

3. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - my recent output looks more like a cowpat than a pyramid, loads of low to mid sevens and nothing harder (apart from stuff that doesn't warrant its grade).

My bouldering pyramid looks more like a cowpat than ever! Loads of stuff up to 7B and nothing harder. Felt like I was going well in April and ready to commit to some harder stuff, but then illness and getting out infrequently means I've lost what form I had and feel like I've got a long way to go to get back to a decent level.

4. Keep on running. Two PBs on the road plus a decent effort at the English Fell Champs as it's my first year in a new age category. At least one category win in a local race.

Green for the road PBs, red for everything else. Amber overall seems fair.

Half marathon PB in January (1:18:30), 10-mile PB as part of the half marathon (59:29) and a 5-mile PB (29:23) as part of the local road league. All of this year's 5-mile courses were pretty hilly, so I've probably run faster for 5 miles as part of a flat 10k. Won the local road league for the V45 age group and was first V40 at a road 10k in February - came away with £50 in cash and £100 worth of kit, so pretty pleasing overall.

Fell season has been a shambles pretty much from start to finish. Ran well at first race of the year, then had 2 English Champs races where I've been ill and way off the pace followed by a third where I was running reasonably well before I picked up an injury in my foot on the first descent and had to hobble home. Decided to knock the rest of the series on the head and focus on road stuff for a couple of months.
 


Giving up on the idea of getting anything more done this year as I've probably got/had Covid - wife tested positive on the 23rd, I started feeling bad on the 24th. The kids now probably have it so unlikely to leave the house for another day or so and then build back up to normality.

1. Make good use of 6 months paternity leave - house projects, climbing, running, whatever.
Did pretty well overall - climbed and ran consistently without taking the piss and leaving my wife with the kids all the time. Managed to do a few bits of redecorating/reorganising, fixed the front garden fence and got people in to replace the decking. Also found the return to work a bit less stressful than after the first one - probably helped by maintaining contact with my team every week.

2. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).
Realistically this wasn't an option this year given other commitments. Snatched a few days when opportunities arose, but my head wasn't really in it. Only days out with a rope in the second half were a great day up on Dovestone Tor and a busy day at Masson Lees.

3. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - my recent output looks more like a cowpat than a pyramid, loads of low to mid sevens and nothing harder (apart from stuff that doesn't warrant its grade).
Usual story of starting well and then drifting back into volume ticking. That's not to say I didn't enjoy my time out - much as there's harder things I want to try, my brain values mileage and movement when I have limited time.

4. Keep on running. Two PBs on the road plus a decent effort at the English Fell Champs as it's my first year in a new age category. At least one category win in a local race.
I'll go with green despite the abysmal showing at the English Champs! Bookended the year with two PBs on the road - 1:18:30 half marathon in January and 36:13 10k (1 second improvement!) in December. No local age category wins on the fells (2nd V40 at Shelf Moor some way behind Ben Tetler was my best effort), but won the local 5-mile league for V45s and won the V40 prize at a 10k in Manchester. Ran pretty well at the national fell relays to finish 8th V40s with my club. Most importantly, refound the love of running after 4 or 5 months of going through the motions.

 

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