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Aims for 2022 (Read 41088 times)

Bradders

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Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 09:41:09 am
« Last Edit: December 28, 2021, 09:54:07 am by Bradders »

Fiend

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#1 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 09:46:28 am
Seems to be a lot more psych for goal setting this year than last
Nope.

1. Heal my knee and recover full strength in that.
2. Heal my golfer's elbow and recover enough strength to train / try hard in that.
3. Heal / manage my tennis elbow & shoulder niggles.
4. Get back to training / recover my strength and fitness (the lowest they've been in a decade) without re-injuring.
5. With guidance get back into more sustainable habits / protocols for training / trying hard.
6. Get back into stretching / mobility once knee is healed.
7. Do a LOT more falling practise once I'm back on a rope as it's one thing I'm not hampered with.
8. Get into better / strict habits of warming up well whenever needed.
9. Something to do with sorting out my camping kit / tolerance.
.
.
.
10. Do some proper fucking climbing.

scragrock

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#2 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 09:54:21 am
Seems to be a lot more psych for goal setting this year than last
Nope.


9. Something to do with sorting out my camping kit / tolerance.


Wow Mat i didn't realise you had such hatred for your Own camping kit. At least you have come forward and admitted you have a problem.
Well done you :P

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#3 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 10:18:21 am
Gonna keep it short and sweet this year.

Climbing

Get myself in sufficient shape to climb 3 E5s onsight - it would be good to do some stuff in the hard but safe category.

Life

Negotiate a pay rise, or change jobs, while maintaining home life with the family.


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#4 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 10:48:14 am
Focusing this year on variety & volume.

Outside Climbing
30 or more days outside climbing.

Onsight 6c
Onsight 6b+
10 easy Redpoints 6b to 6c+
Redpoint 7a in a day

Indoor climbing (Onsight/Flash)  :no: I know, who counts indoor routes?? Beggars can’t be choosers.
50x 6a
40x 6a+
30x 6b
20x 6b+
5x 6c  (Redpoint)

Moonboards
Moonboard 2016 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

Moonboard 2017 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

Moonboard 2019 set
4x benchmark 6b or harder

50 Degree Board
4x 6b or harder


Work
Starting building my coaching alongside my nursing.
Get 5 clients for coaching.
Get 1 team for coaching.

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#5 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 11:45:19 am
Get uninjured
Stay uninjured
Gogarth.

Andy F

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#6 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 12:47:12 pm
1) Recover 100% from COVID
2) 7b+ sport
3) 7A boulder

Setting lowish goals (apart from No1) is the way forward. I'd rather be unambitious and successful nowadays, so much less stressful

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#7 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 12:57:12 pm
General
- Avoid (m)any negative spirals about injury, other life stresses, etc.

UK
- Do 2 or more Kilnsey roof proj/link ideas (Preposterous direct exit, Preposterous direct entrance, Guns direct, Premonition/Epic, Showtime Epic... some of these need cleaning and a few extra bolts)
- Cornice proj (need to bolt it first)
- Aladdin, King of Thieves (if finger can take it)

Abroad (hard to be too specific as I'm not sure where we'll go yet)
- Climb lots of fun things in fun places
- Redpoint some hard stuff (>=8c+)
- Onsight some hard stuff (>=8b)
- Flash some hard stuff (>=8b+)

Wood FT

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#8 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 04:27:11 pm
Trying to focus on bouldering this year. This goal is helped by a change in circumstances.

Training:
Stick to a plan.
20mm 7 seconds @ 40kg
Campus 1-4-6 both arms
Touch my toes and generally improve flexibility.
Flash Wave L2 set
Moonboard 7B
School 50 7A
Regular runs (:sick:)

Boulder:
6 x 7B
3 x 7B+
1 x 7C

Sport:
Short routes for the short climber that’s short on time.
8a+ Redpoint  (Flow, Nemesis, Caviar)
Find an 8b project (Kali Yuga, Zeke, Bricktop)

Destinations:
Go to the Lakes and North Wales to boulder.
Enjoy family time in Font.
Climb on Gritstone….

Life:

Enjoy helping the boy grow up.
Step up to leadership role.
Move house without losing hair.
Build desirable garage board.
Keep weight within acceptable parameters.
Buy a bike and go to work on it.







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#9 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 05:19:04 pm
I took a long time to get going in 2021 and lost a lot of motivation over the lockdown last winter. I then worked more hours than intended, and many weekends, so my climbing was ticking over, and I didn't get many goals done. Motivation improved greatly from August onwards, but it was a little too late to be fit for anything serious. I had a good year all the same, with lots of interesting adventures in new places and with new people. I can carry over several goals from last year.

Trad:
Continue exploring new (to me) mountain crags in Scotland and be climbing at a decent level to get the most from them. Venues could include Shelterstone, Beinn Eighe, Sron na Ciche, Etive Slabs, The Ben. Too many classics to start naming any and if I grabbed 2 good weather weekends over the summer at any of these venues I'd be happy.
I'd also like to be back to E5 fitness, mentally and physically. I didn't do a lot of trad last year, but did a few E3s and while I felt strong enough for E5 I needed more mileage and to be able to recover better on jugs. Combining this with the above would be magic.

Sport:
The only real goal for next year is to tick Marlene at Dunkeld. I had a play this year and could climb all of the sections, it just needed a bit of work on stamina and recovery. I'm hoping that if walls stay open this time I'll be able to get this done quickly in the spring.
If I got that done I wouldn't mind another visit to the Camel, or even a few trips to Yorkshire to finish off long forgotten projects there.
Trip to Ceuse booked in from end of May for 2 weeks. I'd just like to be ticking some 7s without a big fuss really, moving well and enjoying good company would make for a great trip. :)

Training:
I rediscovered my running mojo this autumn, it would be good to keep that up and maybe do a mountain marathon or other event as motivation. Assuming no injuries (niggly knee, unrelated) I'd like to run at least 10km a week.
Fingerboarding - always good intentions and little action. Even once a fortnight would be progress.
I've made more effort at the wall recently. I have a very low failure threshold indoors, so I'd like to make sure I attempt harder circuits and accept that I might not do any of the problems, trying to view it as every move done is training.
Stamina sessions at Ratho in the lead up to Ceuse.

Life:
Buy a house in the Central Belt, hopefully this spring.
OH is desperate for a dog once we have a garden for it.
Hopefully find work fulfilling and have a better idea of what it looks like long term. I've been working in care the last 18 months and I enjoy the job, but prospects seem limited, and I've been messed about and undervalued by employers which has really stressed me out. Have recently started a new role, so hopefully the new place is better in that regard.
Sort out better freelance working habits - both in terms of pitching, talking money and actually sitting down to get it done.
The big one is to finally sort out the mess of a book I've been writing and get over my pure terror at sending it to people who might actually be able to give me useful and honest feedback!
I've got another series of Factor Two in the works, but I have no idea when it might be released at the moment. There are some good ideas on paper though and a few interviewees lined up.




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#10 Re: Aims for 2022
December 28, 2021, 05:32:51 pm
Entering a new year with another new injury, going to bring forward the bulk of last year's aims

Climbing

 - Heal current injuries and remain uninjured for the year
 - 5 V9s
 - V10
 - Go on at least three trips (weekend +)

Training

 - Get down to 10% BW assistance hangs on one-arm BM2k slot
 - Get weight down to 80kg

Wellsy

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#11 Re: Aims for 2022
December 29, 2021, 11:48:00 am
Climbing;

So 2021 turned out quite successfully for my first year bouldering outdoors and second year of climbing at all. After getting very shut down on the initial few trips out I started to get the hang of it and set myself the goal of doing A Single 7A by the end of the year, a pretty basic bitch goal which I didn't really understand but anyway. Made that and then some, on a couple of rock types.

For 2022... I'm not sure. My understanding of bouldering has gone from a sense I sort of know what I'm doing, to an understanding that I really don't and then building some actual skill off that. Moving away from an obsession with strength to realising how much work my technique needs etc. I'd like to challenge myself and I'm prepared to really dedicate my time and energy; I'm a relatively obsessive person and bouldering is probably the most important thing in my life to me right now?

With that in mind I'd like to do 7B+ on lime (where I feel I'm definitely better) and 7B on grit in 2022, with Jack the Nipper 7B+ and Electrical Storm 7B being the targets. I think its doable, but it'll be hard, might as well set my sights high though. I'd also like to build out pyramid a bit I terms of 7As and 7A+s. Just generally solidify the current skills and push them ahead.

I'd also like to improve my headgame a bit and do some highballs; this holds me back and bit and definitely needs some work. There's a few I have in mind to get myself working towards at least!

Fitness;

I do like strength training and I'll be doing a lot more of it. I'd like to be able to do a nice smooth clean muscle up on rings for reps; right now I can do a muscle up on rings (as of yesterday!), but not smoothly or very cleanly. So that. Progress towards a front lever. One armed hang on a 25mm BM edge. Progress towards a one-armer. Pistol Squats.

Life;

I've always found that my lifestyle drags behind my age by about 6-7 years which is appropriate as I'm now in my mid 20s by that metric so am thinking probably need to earn a bit more, buy a car, redecorate the apartment etc. If I can get a new job that pays more, a car and do up the place this year that'll be a good positive change. Also considering knocking the booze on the head almost entirely; dry January will be kicking that off, and I'm currently applying for new jobs etc. Feeling quite positive and hopeful on that front anyway.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2021, 11:54:33 am by Wellsy »

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#12 Re: Aims for 2022
December 30, 2021, 01:52:22 pm
Finally realised that everything climbing revolves around having a functioning / productive life, so my priorities are now (and will hopefully continue to be) heavily skewed in that direction....

Enjoy and work hard at new job and don't fizzle out / get (too) distracted, especially in the fist three months.
Sort out house then sell it, and move on like a grown-up.
Generally approach projects sequentially, rather than trying to do everything at once and never finishing anything.
Refine / perfect the kids-fiction-into-phone-whilst-walking writing technique. Also organise / perfect the Chromebook / folding chair / writing rucksack. Finish kids novel. Finish NF book that's long overdue. Figure out next thing when they're both done.
Walk more / most days / run if lbs to shift or there's less time - this has been a big help in 2021
Spend the first six months focusing on work, organisation and training.
Spend the second six months trying to get away / trips with the kids / going climbing lots.
Climb with lots of people I've not climbed with before, climb at lots of new places. Not worry about grades*.
Facilitate daughter's aim to do lots of routes, and figure out some options for her first trad leads.

*Privately carrying over last year's aims, but at a much reduced priority level...

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#13 Re: Aims for 2022
December 30, 2021, 02:04:21 pm
especially in the fist three months.

Sounds painful. Will they provide lube?

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#14 Re: Aims for 2022
December 30, 2021, 02:58:52 pm
Moving away from an obsession with strength to realising how much work my technique needs etc.

Fuck the naysayers! Keep a focus on strength while you're still in your 20's and the gains still come easily! You've got all your life to work on technique  ;)

Wellsy

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#15 Re: Aims for 2022
December 30, 2021, 05:21:22 pm
Moving away from an obsession with strength to realising how much work my technique needs etc.

Fuck the naysayers! Keep a focus on strength while you're still in your 20's and the gains still come easily! You've got all your life to work on technique  ;)

I'll definitely keep it in mind! :)

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#16 Re: Aims for 2022
December 30, 2021, 07:15:20 pm
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.

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#17 Re: Aims for 2022
December 30, 2021, 09:03:36 pm
Outdoor climbing
- as last year, I’d like to do some actual sport climbing again. Preferably a quality project at 7c/+, although a bunch of onsighting at 7a or up would be a substitute
- I’d like to fill in some gaps in my DWS CV and make a slightly better effort on Mark of the Beast
- Hardest to organise but it would be nice to do some trad again. Lots of classics, ideally some E grades, be nice to get back to E3 again
- Progress on my “why haven’t I already” and “harder things to try” ticklists.
- Bouldering - I’d like to do Stomping with Bez, try the direct, do Liquid Sunshine, and do some harder problems away from home.

Indoor/training
- better and more balanced shoulders. In terms of what this might look like, I’d like to be able to hang off a bar one armed without assistance, lock off one armed at a few angles, continue to work on regaining and extending the tuck planche, and get to a point where say ten dips in a set feels ok.
- Work on some weaknesses. I have many weaknesses, so specifically in this case I’d like to get better at climbing face on, and at getting my weight onto feet that are high, away to the side or generally not underneath me. Working something into my circuits and doing a bunch on the board feel like obvious ways of approaching this.
- Try to build a stretching habit

Life
-  less doom scrolling. I’m usually quite tired by the evenings so have a bad habit of ending up vegetating staring at my phone - Instagram, FB, clips on YouTube, other similar wastes of time. I am not going to pretend to aim for wholesome but unrealistic - more training, heavy reading, or whatever - but even easy to read fiction would be a big improvement!
- Support MrsAJM in doing more stuff again. Between spending half her maternity leave in lockdown #1 doing full time childcare, then subsequent lockdowns, and the fact microAJM is quite a handful, she hasn’t really managed to get back into things much (she used to climb a bit, do aerial circus, etc) and often feels a bit stuck in a rut. Would be great to help her out of it into something, whatever that might be!

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#18 Re: Aims for 2022
December 30, 2021, 10:16:36 pm
2 x 8A
10 x ≥7C
side splits

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#19 Re: Aims for 2022
December 30, 2021, 10:18:30 pm
1) go climbing with other people
2) start filming climbing again
3) keep up surfskate progression - including - some downhill projects (Whirlowdale Road Integrale, finishing at the Robin Hood pub), drop in to a bowl, skate the Monsal tunnels
4) go snowboarding with the kids, on snow, on a mountain
5) go fishing more
« Last Edit: December 30, 2021, 10:24:41 pm by lagerstarfish »

Fiend

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#20 Re: Aims for 2022
December 31, 2021, 11:02:03 am
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.
LOL, good aims, once I can boulder count me in for #1 and hopefully witnessing #2.

Andy F

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#21 Re: Aims for 2022
December 31, 2021, 02:45:43 pm
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.
LOL, good aims, once I can boulder count me in for #1 and hopefully witnessing #2.
Count me in for #1 and #2 as well 👍

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#22 Re: Aims for 2022
December 31, 2021, 04:30:35 pm
Find a good balance between fatherhood and climbing.
5 7Cs with at least one on grit.
Touch my toes (improve hamstring flexibility)
At least one weekend away to NW/Lakes.
Climb abroad with family.

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#23 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 08:08:43 am
Lower body stretching as a first priority. I’ve improved my posture and flexibility loads in the past few years with disciplined stretching, but largely in my upper body. I’m less disciplined about the frequency with which I do the lower body stretches and if the sorry state of my leg & hip flexibility isn’t the main physical limit on my climbing these days it’s definitely in the top two. Let’s say 240+ days.


fingerboard twice a week in Jan, Feb, Nov & Dec and at least once a week March & Oct.


Tick remaining pre-injury strength PBs. Surely I can do it this year!

Repeat or better all my other PBs. Most were now set in 2021 so this is about maintaining.

Climb in the E-grades again. I think I partly derailed this aim last year by setting volume-based lower-grade goals and thinking I’d start trying proper hard after I quickly knocked them off… honestly I’ll be happy with an E1 so that’s the minimum. Ideally let’s say… 6. I’ll be fucking psyched with more than that, particularly if any are above E1.

Try routes with roofs in. This is the most quantifiable way I can come up with to say “climb out of my comfort zone”. Actually I can think of another, I just don’t want to type it- take at least one, ideally 5 or more trad leader falls.

South-West trip. Despite filming down there quite a bit I’ve barely climbed in Devon or Cornwall at all and I don’t think I’ve done a sea cliff route for 6 years! No ambitions grade wise, just want to do some steady classics and a partner has expressed enthusiasm so as long as he doesn’t bail this should be doable.

Climb the Devil’s Tower. I’ve rebooked my flights to the US so this goal, like the trip itself is rolled over from summer 2020.

Complete my photo project and, linked to that, take a camera out every time I go climbing.

Good luck everyone!  :thumbsup:



Bradders

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#24 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 08:47:55 am
Seems to be a lot more psych for goal setting this year than last
Nope.

Says the man who's first to respond to the thread  :wank: :clap2:

 

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