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Aims for 2022 (Read 29649 times)

Fiend

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#25 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 09:37:19 am
Whatever!  :icon_321:  :P

I'm far more psyched to post crap on the forum that slog my way through sorting out the mess of injuries and plummetting performance!

Bradders

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#26 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 12:00:58 pm
Training
- >12 sessions on boards other than my own
- Keep up endurance training over winter; would be great to get back on a rope in spring and not feel like I'm starting from scratch again endurance wise. Actually quite enjoy the basic suffering of foot on campussing.
- Minimise missed training sessions
- Stretch / yoga 5x per week

Climbing
- 100 Vpoints in a day at Almscliff, Caley or Earl; been threatening to have a go at this for years, Caley feels most likely so hopefully conditions allow in February / March time.
- Do more things likely to take 2-4 sessions; particularly sport but boulders too. Last year did a lot of 2nd or 3rd go "in a day" redpoints which was fine as a way of racking up routes but I suspect that doing harder routes would actually be more beneficial both physically and tactically.
- Keep doing easier routes but must either onsight, flash or walk away; no 2nd go redpoints of anything <7b. Would love to get better at flashing things at least, given how tricky UK onsighting can be. Walking away will be tricky for the ego!
- Go abroad again! Font, Swiss and / or Ireland
- >100 sessions on rock
- >10 sessions bouldering on Eastern lime
- >10 sessions bouldering on central Peak lime

Grade Chasing
- 8A
- 8a+ (or at least try one)
- >10 7C and up

Life
- Go part time; I'm in the extremely fortunate position where this is both possible at work and, should be, financially viable. It's a biggy as it should help everything else on this list. It's already all agreed with a 3 month test period from February to end of April, so fingers crossed it works out. It's still pretty scary given that whenever I look at the news there are dire warnings about inflation / cost of living, etc.
- Get made permanent at current grade at work; been on various secondments at this level since December 2018! Current role looks good, management saying all the right things and the work is certainly there to be done, so fingers crossed. Part time shouldn't affect it, and may actually help.
- Be a good husband and father; last on the list but really it's first y'know.

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#27 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 12:12:20 pm
Sport Climbing
1) Spend some time on another 8c. Probably Cry Freedom if spring conditions allow me to get on the top bit. I am keen for Bats and Dogs too but working it is a nightmare currently with all the Rainman aspirants so might wait until they've got it ticked.
2) Do The Groove, and as a result complete the Triple Crown.
3) A Kilnsey 8b. Maybe Stolen or Showtime.
4) Go back to Ceuse.

Trad
1) Make sure I keep doing some as I love it and it gives my climbing better balance than just bolt clipping all the time.
2) Try an E6. Probably a Pembroke one that is safe. I fully expect to fall off but would like to at least get on one. Suggestions welcome!
3) Try to do some more trad in Scotland.

Bouldering (these are mostly rolled over from last year).
1) It was noticeable how little appetite I had for bouldering projects in 2021 which resulted in no gritstone 7Cs despite being close on a few. It would be good to finally do one again as I haven't climbed a grit 7C since 2019. Keen for Lager Lager Lager.
2) Try Tourniquet at Kentmere. This looks like a decent long term 8A (?  :worms:) candidate and its not that far from me now.
3) Go and try Cashmere Cat with a big team.

Training
1) Get fingerboard up in new house and get back on it. I have been really lazy the last few months and got distracted by board climbing after being quite diligent for a year.
2) bodyweight hang on bottom middle slot.
3) maintain shoulder strengthening and hamstring rehab. Keep stretching.

Life
1) Get dog.
2) Go on a holiday abroad with partner.
2) peck away at house DIY
2) Don't get kicked off the PhD in the first year.


spidermonkey09

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#28 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 12:15:13 pm

- Keep doing easier routes but must either onsight, flash or walk away; no 2nd go redpoints of anything <7b. Would love to get better at flashing things at least, given how tricky UK onsighting can be. Walking away will be tricky for the ego!



This is probably the hardest thing on the list!  :lol:

Bradders

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#29 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 01:29:11 pm
I know, especially as I've done or tried lots of the obvious possibilities at Kilnsey!

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#30 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 01:53:06 pm
I know, especially as I've done or tried lots of the obvious possibilities at Kilnsey!

The right wall at Trow Gill and Langcliffe Skyline are decent for onsighting in the low 7s. Some decent ones at Dib Scar as well.

Thedevonshirepiemuncher

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#31 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 02:15:30 pm
Great post this
Got me thinking and motivated  me to think about 2022 after a long ISH lay off so here goes with some modest aims

Fix current injuries both in lower legs and one finger pulley strain whilst actually starting to train again

Climb on a rope again and tick 2 routes I haven't sent at ansteys by June, avenged and la crŤme are at the top of the list

Tick one boulder problem @ V8 or harder that is not a traverse (might be tricky with a knackered ankle and Achilles)

Lose 18 kg , which would get me back to my 2018 low point of 79kg

Be less grumpy about current injuries, they will get better with time and rehab (I hope)


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#32 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 04:19:06 pm
Bradders & Spiders - any team psyche for Requiem at Stoupe Brow? It's a bit far but a quality 8A for the 2022 goals tick!

Bradders you can get a further two ticks for a 7C on my board. Make sure your shoulders are feeling good for more gastons  ;D

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#33 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 06:35:49 pm
Bradders & Spiders - any team psyche for Requiem at Stoupe Brow? It's a bit far but a quality 8A for the 2022 goals tick!

Bradders you can get a further two ticks for a 7C on my board. Make sure your shoulders are feeling good for more gastons  ;D

Honestly...no :lol: lots of things a lot closer to home.

Only one for that, 7Cs have to be on rock!

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#34 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 06:52:10 pm
Trad

- At least one E3, with a suitably shaped pyramid below that.
- Don't shy away from non-slabs: bit flimsy, but can't (shouldn't?) just climb slabs forever.

Bouldering

- At least one 7A+, with a suitably shaped pyramid below that.

Sport

- At least one 7a+, less emphasis on the pyramid since I don't see myself doing a lot this year, but we'll see how it goes.
- Keep on top of endurance more, as a general good practice/not feeling like a complete punter every time I tie in.

Training

- Fingerboard more than now (almost never). No particular goals, need to find my current level first.
- Actually campus something. Honestly even 1-2 on big rungs would be good, I'm reaching the limit of my zero-power approach to climbing, and it's definitely holding me back on things that should be routine.

Running

- Do a mountain marathon (probably Snowdonia trail marathon in July).
- Run at least one leg of the BGR, as a little taster (long long long term goal)

Other

- Visit at least 15 new crags
- Help my partner with her goals
- Go on a walking/scrambling/running trip to Scotland
- Come up with an idea of how these grade pyramids should look!
- Actually make a bit of effort to meet some new partners, just been a bit lazy on that front since moving.

James Malloch

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#35 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 07:32:40 pm
Jan/Feb/March

- keep up with physio and get running again
- climb twice a week to get happy on board circuits/problems after injury
- some pre-hab (TBC) to work on some grips I donít use much

April onwards

- Quit job and head off in van
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
- 7c onsight
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse
- donít get sucked into hard boulders
- have fun and take time to properly relax
- do some big multi day walks in Europe
- eat a lot of french pastries
- find job to start in 2023 for when we come back

- if I canít get a visa to stay in Europe for 9 months, tick off some of my 2021 route aims

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#36 Re: Aims for 2022
January 01, 2022, 08:58:05 pm
All fairly modest but if they are written here, I wonít be able to secretly adjust them in June . . .

1. Make better use of local rock (southern sandstone so needs prolonged dry weather). In particular climb everything at Rocks Lane and  Balcombe Mills Rocks (only 12 ish problems) and all the routes at Bassets Farm (which will also involve sorting out my TR solo system).

2. 7 x 7A (or above) problems including at least one on each of grit, lime, culm and sandstone.

3. Carnage wall at Hartland (this is the big one for me,  nowhere near local so need to try and do it in 2 sessions)

4. Do some trad for the first time in 30 years (this may/should involve some formal instruction).

csl

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#37 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 08:33:59 am
Climb one of each discipline from my "lifetime list" ticklist
  • Jerry's Roof
  • Dominatrix
  • Some classic trad in Pembroke or N. Wales
  • A long rock route in the mountains

Train consistently
  • Do at least 90% of planned sessions
  • Climb 50% of my "#ldnclmbr" ticklist

Make outdoor sessions count
  • Have a plan and visit specific routes/boulders
  • Do at least 2 sessions on each goal route/boulder

scragrock

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#38 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 09:26:48 am
Fix back problems
Annular tear has had me scunnered for over 2 years{age/wear and tear}
Finish Strathnairn guide
taking longer than anticipated
Train specifically for the last 2 lines in Rooftown
Then top them out Ha
Finish off last line in Barry Valley
Might be the hardest thing i have ever tried
Try for oldest send of QED, Susurrus
seriously ambitious
Fix wood burning stove in climbing wall
will make for a cheaper more sustainable heating/drying solution



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#39 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 09:45:33 am
Haven't got high hopes for a big climbing year, due to...

1. Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now), and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse, and also not getting fat.
2. Climb at least one 8a. Have done at least one a year since 2008, and not about to let that slip now! I'd like it to be the big link up from the tench at potato, but will have to see how the year pans out time wise.
3. Keep strong enough at home on the board to be able to bust out the occasional 7B boulder problem.
4. Run as much as possible, maybe do something big late summer

That's it really. Main goal for the year is to keep expectations for my own stuff low, and enjoy the crap out of it when I do get out to do stuff. Whilst repeating the mantra "it's just a phase"

Ged

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#40 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 09:47:22 am
Jan/Feb/March

- keep up with physio and get running again
- climb twice a week to get happy on board circuits/problems after injury
- some pre-hab (TBC) to work on some grips I donít use much

April onwards

- Quit job and head off in van
- 7b onsight
- 7b+ onsight
- 7c onsight
- cent patates (7b+) in ceuse
- donít get sucked into hard boulders
- have fun and take time to properly relax
- do some big multi day walks in Europe
- eat a lot of french pastries
- find job to start in 2023 for when we come back

- if I canít get a visa to stay in Europe for 9 months, tick off some of my 2021 route aims

Sounds like you've got a good year lined up. If EU stays don't work out and you've got the time, Norway is flipping awesome if you haven't been.

abarro81

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#41 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 09:53:03 am
Norway is still Schengen isn't it?

Yossarian

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#42 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 10:09:34 am


Train consistently
  • Do at least 90% of planned sessions
  • Climb 50% of my "#ldnclmbr" ticklist



Perhaps this needs publishing in the next issue?!

Bradders

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#43 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 10:10:34 am
Yes do tell!

Fiend

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#44 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 10:12:28 am
1. Climb Zippy's Traverse in the damp having driven from #ldn
2. Climb Captain Hook in the damp having driven from #ldn

Will Hunt

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#45 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 10:54:53 am
1. Climb Zippy's Traverse in the damp having driven from #ldn
2. Climb Captain Hook in the damp having driven from #ldn

 :punk:

You got this, brah.

Wellsy

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#46 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 11:04:47 am
Instagram green ticks prepped and ready

Ged

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#47 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 12:00:59 pm
Norway is still Schengen isn't it?

Oh right, my mistake. Same restrictions then is it?

Fiend

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#48 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 12:25:50 pm
P.S. tha's me preempting the #ldnclmbr ticklist of course. Just in case there's any confusion  :alien:

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#49 Re: Aims for 2022
January 02, 2022, 12:47:10 pm
1. Climb Zippy's Traverse in the damp having driven from #ldn
2. Climb Captain Hook in the damp having driven from #ldn

You fucking bellend

 :lol:

 

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