1. Stay alive and try to find something worth living for
2. Try to stay active enough not to deteriorate further.
3. Keep pushing to stay in contact with friends, climbing partners, and maintain social life.
4. Try to be careful enough to heal elbows a bit more.
5. See 1.
Loving the Best of 2021 reflective psyche, and the commitment here.After many years of somewhat drifting along in absolute climbing ability terms, and not really doing much more than surviving at work, this year feels like one that will consist of ending things, exploring/finding things and commencing things.I've decided that my work/home/training excuses of "not liking plans" and "keeping flexible" is maybe just an excuse for not setting goals and committing to them, accepting possible failure. So far I have made a 16 week training plan, and feel genuinely motivated to stick to it.I'm also very soon, VERY SOON going to quit my job and take some no-kid parental leave (aka sabbatical), and give me some space to:TrainStart / Finish some woodwork projects that never seem to get doneDevelop my freelance networkGet better at Sea-Kayaking with OH, Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)Make plans for getting a doer-upper bit of land/old house> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there. > Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron. > Start working Reqiuem> Also have some sessions on Dalriada> Malc's Arete (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?)I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there.I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.
What a difference a year makes! Feeling much better but still been kind of wary about setting any goals. However itís not like I donít have any may as well set my stall out.I definitely feel like I am on an upward trajectory at the moment so my main aim is to continue on the same path of self acceptance, self love and appreciation for what I have. In the past year I also aimed to have more fun and I wish to continue this into 2022 (and beyond). whilst I didnít have loads of therapy do loads of mindfulness this year, I was way more conscious of my mental health and caught myself before I fell too far into negative thought cycles.Pretty happy with that though the journey is obviously never over.The above are my main goals and any goals I state below are secondary to these. If trying to achieve one is contradictory to maintaining good mental health then I hope I will drop it. Climbing Never sure whether highly specific or vague is the way to go. Iíll try and hit both.In no particular order...More E6 attempts from the ground.Specifically; LOTF, Suicide blonde, Big in America, Pulsebeat, Sixpence, Ghost Train, Grezelda.Be good to regain my previous overall trad form. Ummm tried one E6 at the end of a trip to the burren when I was 7th day on and it was just coming into the sun on a hot day. Maybe could have had another go but was conscious of incoming tide blocking the escape route and it was hot. Have it a good go but think I would have run out of medium wires above the crux so maybe was lucky I didnít get through! Did a load of E5s this year but still not quite back in trad formÖ Pabbay trip I did some bits but was definitely struggling with confidence to get on things.More ~8a sport. The Groove or Urgent Action would be ace. Zoolook and soft option being others Iím keen for.Did one definite 8a - Shine On at the Diamond, tried Statement a bit but never had enough consistency on it having 3 sessions spread out a bit too much. Felt like if I had had a few more closer to last session I might have got it as felt good on it.Also did Dark Stranger which gets 8a on UKC but is probably 7c+Visit some new crags; Yew cogar, trow Gill.color=red] Nope barely climbed in Yorkshire this year [/color]Have a tickle at an 8b? Not too sure which one id try ... Nope had 2 goes up the Brute with Flo but that was more to try hard moves than try an 8b. Never felt the form this year for that sort of thingBoulder more 7B+s sneak a 7C out? Would also love to try Corridors if Power.Did Pit and the Pendulum at Milestone in the Ogwen. Not the worldís best problem but did it quite quickly and itís one of those hard problems Iíve always known about. I enjoyed the ratty nature of it too. Did have a period of feeling good bouldering which was nice no 7Cs but think will try and commit to bouldering next winterLifeFinish house ASAP so fun can resume. (But do a good job)House jobs are never ending but certainly got it to a good point by March and then have continued to tick off jobs after that at a slower pace. Pretty happy with what Iíve doneSwitch to part time work. Whether that is at this company or back on the ropes. I donít care which as long as Iím not working 5 days a week, 47 weeks of the year.Back on the ropes, and have managed to work pretty much whenever I want and guy in charge of rope access team totally chill when I tell him Iím unavailable Donít fuck up the amazing thing I have just found myself hopefully on the verge of getting into. (Donít want to jinx it). If it doesnít work out donít lose myself in process. YYFY well psyched to be with Flo, we have really similar energy levels, psyche for climbing, similar interests. Just great scenes.Hope 2022 is a good one for everyone
Saw this pop up and realised that I'd not done one yet...Last year's were probably a bit over ambitious looking back at them especially considering that my #1 goal was not to get injured and it turms out I was already nursing a pretty big one (albiet managing it...)Quote1. Not get injured Failed as already was!2. F7c again Didn't even get on one!3. More than one good trad day (i.e. good/classic routes E1 - E4) 4. Make it to Kalymnos in October again 4a. Get on Ageallis or another awesome looking F7c 5. F7a+/7b onsight again Nope F7a onsight and F7a+/F7b TR Flash was as good as it got!6. 7A bloc if I can ever be arsed to go bouldering again 7. Eatswood Traverse (wildcard!) Didn't even try - Shoulder wouldn't like the start!8. Find and get on F8a project for 2022 Didn't try!So this year I'll be a bit more conservative:Climbing1. More F7b's2. F7b+3. Get on inspiring F7c, F7c+ or F8a as project4. Stay out of hospital (i.e. condition shoulder enough to not warrant surgery)5. Spain in March6. Kalymnos in October7. At least one classic trad day E2-E58. At least one decent day bouldering high 6's and/or low 7'sLife1. Build garden cabin/office2. Get more guaranteed work - being self employed is great but sometimes feels like I'm chasing my tail so guaranteed hrs would be ace3. Take kids away on a memorable trip (maybe take them on a multipitch)And it was written...
1. Not get injured Failed as already was!2. F7c again Didn't even get on one!3. More than one good trad day (i.e. good/classic routes E1 - E4) 4. Make it to Kalymnos in October again 4a. Get on Ageallis or another awesome looking F7c 5. F7a+/7b onsight again Nope F7a onsight and F7a+/F7b TR Flash was as good as it got!6. 7A bloc if I can ever be arsed to go bouldering again 7. Eatswood Traverse (wildcard!) Didn't even try - Shoulder wouldn't like the start!8. Find and get on F8a project for 2022 Didn't try!
5. A few good days of DWS. Zilch this year
Overall in 2022 I want to enjoy my climbing more ✅and tick something thatís hard for me.❌Things Iíll do differently this year.- No limit projecting when itís too warm/humid as itís demotivating ✅- Drop my grade in the summer ✅- Travel more ✅- Resume trad climbing (still aspire to onsight an E6 at some point so need to start building back into it) ✅If year pans out well it will include:Jan: 3 week trip to Spain with Duncan leaving on Friday 🤞✅ (Good weather, great crag but with hindsight should have got on steeper routes)Feb: Focus on Bens without kneebars ✅Mar/April: Malham season. Oak/Mescalito❌(just one day but heart wasnít in it)April/May: Host a yank I hit it off with n Chulilla and weather permitting take him on a South West sea cliff tour❌ (unfortunately Jerry cried off to have some voodoo medicine operation)Summer: Van trip to Briancon area with Sonia ✅ (actually took car as had Tommy and Poppy and even better Rob and Rach Barker stayed with us)Autumn: Tor or Malham projecting ✅November: Red River Gorge (be fit for it this time)✅
Quote from: seankenny on December 26, 2022, 01:25:26 pmIt feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.Crikey, your year puts most of our frustrations and failings in perspective a bit. Hope the next one is a lot better for you!
It feels fair to say that whilst 2022 was totally shit, I did the best I could with a bad hand.
Lower body stretching as a first priority... 240 days at least.
fingerboard twice a week in Jan, Feb, Nov & Dec and at least once a week March & Oct.
Tick remaining pre-injury strength PBs.
Repeat or better all my other PBs.
Climb in the E-grades again. Iíll be happy with an E1 so thatís the minimum. Ideally letís sayÖ 6.
Try routes with roofs in. This is the most quantifiable way I can come up with to say ďclimb out of my comfort zoneĒ. Actually I can think of another, I just donít want to type it- take at least one, ideally 5 or more trad leader falls.
Climb the Devilís Tower.
Complete my photo project and, linked to that, take a camera out every time I go climbing.
Quote from: monkoffunk on January 29, 2022, 11:34:37 pmI was planning on doing this at the end of January after a bit of time to consider some plans post exam year.Unfortunately I dislocated my patella yesterday walking across my bedroom of all things. Thatís slightly altered the start of my year but anyway few goals for this year:1. Do a ton of physio2. Restart running, take it easy, no specific aims for now. 3. Climb again. 4. Especially on rockÖ5. Sort out home training facilities. 6. Stick with habit tracker a bit better.Agree very much with above, Iím impressed by everyone I meet right now keeping on going through some tough times, and puts my own injuries etc into perspective.Hereís how much year is going in brief:Certainly much happier in general after 2021 the year of exam revision. So good to draw a line under all of that. Lots of areas I could improve on still, but Iím more content despite not doing much on paper.For the goals:1. Physio - kept this going pretty well until I could run again and then has tailed off somewhat. Need to improve this as the reason my knee dislocated again was in some part due to pre-existing muscle imbalances, it wasnít just about rehabbing this injury.2. Restart running - have done this sooner than the physios said despite there still being some discrepancy in leg strength, but needed to for sanity. Have signed up for Bournemouth half marathon again now, so do have a specific goal. My pace is still way off pre knee so I doubt any PBs will be set, but I have some time before October to at least get up to the distance.3. Climb again. Iíve done this! (Not enough, but some)4. Especially on rock. Climbed down in Swanage once, felt unbelievable unfit but was still fun. Felt really strange finding 6a absolutely nails and not being able to do moves on a 7a, but I didnít have expectations and was just great being on rock. Just back from first Font trip post pandemic which was also great. Repeated a 6C I had done some years ago in a couple of goes and some circuits in the heat which was fun. Had a crack at the sit to Danger Majeur at Sabots, couldnít get off the floor, but other than that didnít feel far off, so psyched for next time!5. Havenít built home wall yet, but living arrangements still somewhat fluid. Have some home gym stuff.6. Am sticking with the habit tracker pretty well to kept some consistency going with the various things Iíd like to do better (yoga, sleep, etc). Will aim to do better second half of year!
I was planning on doing this at the end of January after a bit of time to consider some plans post exam year.Unfortunately I dislocated my patella yesterday walking across my bedroom of all things. Thatís slightly altered the start of my year but anyway few goals for this year:1. Do a ton of physio2. Restart running, take it easy, no specific aims for now. 3. Climb again. 4. Especially on rockÖ5. Sort out home training facilities. 6. Stick with habit tracker a bit better.
Time to set the 2022 goals. Some are dependent on injuries and other factors out of my control but even a couple of things off the list will make for a good year!Climbing1. Fix my right elbow.2. Finish Der Schwarzer Schwann (8c).3. Finish some 8a-8bs I have tried in Tirol - Particularly Rose der Zeit (8a+).4. Climb on some sport sandstone (NRG, RRG or Taipan if it opens again).5. Go bouldering outdoors again.Running/Cycling/Fishing/Skiing1. Fix my ankle and knee tendonitis (or at least keep it at bay).2. Do a ski x-country marathon.3. Finish one or more of - Bob Graham Round, Eiger Ultra, an Everesting, UTMB (dependent on entry lottery), Dragon's Back Race (dependent on not getting in UTMB and getting a place via the waiting list), run 3000km.4. A nice cycle tour (2-3 days).5. Catch a 20lb+ pike.Misc./life1. Sleep more/better.2. Drink less.3. Get less stressed about work + work less (maybe try and take Q4 off work).4. Learn more French.
Climbing-wise - same as last few years: Do a new (to me) 7a outdoors somewhere. Easy to say, but getting the stars of weather / time / family life / ability to all align suitably is the challenge here.Outside of climbing:Carry on working from home without going too stir-crazyLearn to maintain, and actually maintain huge / complex garden on the new houseBe / carry on being an alright Dad and partner
Shockingly, lockdowns, injury and becoming a parent has meant my last logged outdoor climb/boulder was in May... FFS. Shouldn't be too hard to better that in 2022 I hope, so my aims are simply:1. Jumping on the bandwagon here as well - be a good Dad/partner. Reckon so2. Build the woodie (shed is up, materials have arrived, holds on order... just need a precious day or so to put it up) woodie is up and thriving3. Get back to the outdoors in general with family - walking, camping, van, etc not as much as I'd like to4. Do more climbing than 2021. tick, although still a lot less than I'm used to though5. Look after bicep. left bicep fully recovered something weird going on with right bicep/elbow6. Get in some more Trad days with my brother, like the good old times! big fat failLess of a priority now and seemingly impossible:7. Finish (haha!) house renovation and endless list of DIY jobs must be fucking joking
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