Everything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment. Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year. Climbing- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready". - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times. If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:- 7a sport- E1/2Life- Get a job. - Support partner.- Improve Sinhala.
Quote from: seankenny on January 02, 2022, 06:46:09 pmEverything's a bit up in the air at the moment because aim #1 is:- Sort out long covid/post viral issue that stops me doing very much at the moment. Assuming this gets done in a reasonable amount of time - one month, three months, six months, I have no idea! - then my other aims are basically a re-run from last year. Climbing- 7b/7b+ probably Portland, Cheddar, Brean, but not fussed. Get a bit more stuck into redpointing.- Get on one or more E3s/E4s. Doesn't matter if I don't finish them, or dog them, the point is to try, as I'm quite good at sabotaging myself by not being "ready". - Climb in North Wales, Pembroke, Cornwall, etc at least once. Ideally several times. If it takes me a long time to get better then my scaled down goals will be:- 7a sport- E1/2Life- Get a job. - Support partner.- Improve Sinhala.1) Well, that was a bit optimistic! Halfway through 2022 and I'm still pretty sick, although I am improving. I can walk about 2000 - 2500 steps a day no problem but any more and my fatigue kicks in big time. So I'm pretty limited in where I can go and what I can do. I'm too sick to work as I can't concentrate for very long, thankfully I don't seem to have too many cognitive problems even if my concentration is poor. I've pretty much accepted that I will be sick in some way for at least a year and then have another year to get back to full functioning in terms of climbing. People do get better and I have just about everything working in my favour to help me get back to health. 2) Even just making it to the wall in the next six months will be a major win. 3) Can't work. Partner is doing a lot of supporting me without me doing much supporting her, even though I try my best. Surprisingly my Sinhala is a bit better!I think the very best possible spin I could put on 2022 so far is to say that it's been a year in which I've learned a lot...
I was planning on doing this at the end of January after a bit of time to consider some plans post exam year.Unfortunately I dislocated my patella yesterday walking across my bedroom of all things. That’s slightly altered the start of my year but anyway few goals for this year:1. Do a ton of physio2. Restart running, take it easy, no specific aims for now. 3. Climb again. 4. Especially on rock…5. Sort out home training facilities. 6. Stick with habit tracker a bit better.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on July 02, 2022, 11:11:02 amQuote from: Wellsy on July 02, 2022, 09:20:36 amMy aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year. If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.Funny you say that, I find the fool piss compared to fallen idol (which I haven't done despite having a few sessions on it). I'm no crimp waif but Im not completely shit on small holds either.
Quote from: Wellsy on July 02, 2022, 09:20:36 amMy aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year. If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.
My aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year.
Loving the Best of 2021 reflective psyche, and the commitment here.After many years of somewhat drifting along in absolute climbing ability terms, and not really doing much more than surviving at work, this year feels like one that will consist of ending things, exploring/finding things and commencing things.I've decided that my work/home/training excuses of "not liking plans" and "keeping flexible" is maybe just an excuse for not setting goals and committing to them, accepting possible failure. So far I have made a 16 week training plan, and feel genuinely motivated to stick to it.I'm also very soon, VERY SOON going to quit my job and take some no-kid parental leave (aka sabbatical), and give me some space to:TrainStart / Finish some woodwork projects that never seem to get doneDevelop my freelance networkGet better at Sea-Kayaking with OH, Go to Kyrgyzstan, climb Perestoika crakc and try a big wall new route... (I AM Sean Villanueva, I AM Sean Villanueva!!!)Make plans for getting a doer-upper bit of land/old house> I want to pick an 8a project, maybe Axiom at Tunnel Wall and try to tick the rest of the routes up there. > Get 2 more E6s done at Cambusbarron. > Start working Reqiuem> Also have some sessions on Dalriada> Malc's Arete (anyone got any other good Glasgow local 7B/+ projects to work on?)I'm in 2 minds about re-arranging the garage to make a better home wall, but I have 2 good walls nearby and soon to be free during the day so I'm not sure the effort/reward ratio will be there.I've got a consultant appointment on 10 Jan to see what state my kneecap is in, since it's been grinding a bit so some things will rest on that. Fingers crossed for better news.
Outdoor climbing- as last year, I’d like to do some actual sport climbing again. Preferably a quality project at 7c/+, although a bunch of onsighting at 7a or up would be a substitute Some progress on this, definitely. I've certainly done a lot more sport climbing. I've tried to onsight 2 7as (both second go), I've done 2 quick 7a+s, and I've had 2 fairly short sessions on Zinc Oxide Mountain, which ticks all the sort of boxes I was looking for in getting back into some projecting again, even if nominally it's 7b+ rather than 7c/+- I’d like to fill in some gaps in my DWS CV and make a slightly better effort on Mark of the BeastOnly just beginning- Hardest to organise but it would be nice to do some trad again. Lots of classics, ideally some E grades, be nice to get back to E3 againI would feel a bit cheeky putting orange for my one VS...- Progress on my “why haven’t I already” and “harder things to try” ticklists.nice and easy, I've done one thing of the first one.- Bouldering - I’d like to do Stomping with Bez, try the direct, do Liquid Sunshine, and do some harder problems away from home.Not really. A slow to heal hamstring tweak and a finger niggle hampered my bouldering campaign, plus I got the opportunity to do more roped stuff and jumped at it.Indoor/training- better and more balanced shoulders. In terms of what this might look like, I’d like to be able to hang off a bar one armed without assistance, lock off one armed at a few angles, continue to work on regaining and extending the tuck planche, and get to a point where say ten dips in a set feels ok.I'll go optimistic on this, I've done a lot more basic shoulder and push work than in previous years, definitely regained and I think improved a little the tuck planche but not done much other benchmarking as yet- Work on some weaknesses. I have many weaknesses, so specifically in this case I’d like to get better at climbing face on, and at getting my weight onto feet that are high, away to the side or generally not underneath me. Working something into my circuits and doing a bunch on the board feel like obvious ways of approaching this.- Try to build a stretching habitNope to both of these. I started with good intentions and did fairly ok but then the finger hampered the board time and the hamstring tweak made me reluctant to stretch itLife- less doom scrolling. I’m usually quite tired by the evenings so have a bad habit of ending up vegetating staring at my phone - Instagram, FB, clips on YouTube, other similar wastes of time. I am not going to pretend to aim for wholesome but unrealistic - more training, heavy reading, or whatever - but even easy to read fiction would be a big improvement!Optimistically this is orange, I have definitely done some other things but it is definitely a case of less rather than none- Support MrsAJM in doing more stuff again. Between spending half her maternity leave in lockdown #1 doing full time childcare, then subsequent lockdowns, and the fact microAJM is quite a handful, she hasn’t really managed to get back into things much (she used to climb a bit, do aerial circus, etc) and often feels a bit stuck in a rut. Would be great to help her out of it into something, whatever that might be!Making some progress on this, I think, definitely been doing a bit more outdoor stuff as a family and also starting to create a bit more child free space for each other as well
Quote from: AJM on December 30, 2021, 09:03:36 pmOutdoor climbing- as last year, I’d like to do some actual sport climbing again. Preferably a quality project at 7c/+, although a bunch of onsighting at 7a or up would be a substitute Some progress on this, definitely. I've certainly done a lot more sport climbing. I've tried to onsight 2 7as (both second go), I've done 2 quick 7a+s, and I've had 2 fairly short sessions on Zinc Oxide Mountain, which ticks all the sort of boxes I was looking for in getting back into some projecting again, even if nominally it's 7b+ rather than 7c/+- I’d like to fill in some gaps in my DWS CV and make a slightly better effort on Mark of the BeastOnly just beginning- Hardest to organise but it would be nice to do some trad again. Lots of classics, ideally some E grades, be nice to get back to E3 againI would feel a bit cheeky putting orange for my one VS...- Progress on my “why haven’t I already” and “harder things to try” ticklists.nice and easy, I've done one thing of the first one.- Bouldering - I’d like to do Stomping with Bez, try the direct, do Liquid Sunshine, and do some harder problems away from home.Not really. A slow to heal hamstring tweak and a finger niggle hampered my bouldering campaign, plus I got the opportunity to do more roped stuff and jumped at it.Indoor/training- better and more balanced shoulders. In terms of what this might look like, I’d like to be able to hang off a bar one armed without assistance, lock off one armed at a few angles, continue to work on regaining and extending the tuck planche, and get to a point where say ten dips in a set feels ok.I'll go optimistic on this, I've done a lot more basic shoulder and push work than in previous years, definitely regained and I think improved a little the tuck planche but not done much other benchmarking as yet- Work on some weaknesses. I have many weaknesses, so specifically in this case I’d like to get better at climbing face on, and at getting my weight onto feet that are high, away to the side or generally not underneath me. Working something into my circuits and doing a bunch on the board feel like obvious ways of approaching this.- Try to build a stretching habitNope to both of these. I started with good intentions and did fairly ok but then the finger hampered the board time and the hamstring tweak made me reluctant to stretch itLife- less doom scrolling. I’m usually quite tired by the evenings so have a bad habit of ending up vegetating staring at my phone - Instagram, FB, clips on YouTube, other similar wastes of time. I am not going to pretend to aim for wholesome but unrealistic - more training, heavy reading, or whatever - but even easy to read fiction would be a big improvement!Optimistically this is orange, I have definitely done some other things but it is definitely a case of less rather than none- Support MrsAJM in doing more stuff again. Between spending half her maternity leave in lockdown #1 doing full time childcare, then subsequent lockdowns, and the fact microAJM is quite a handful, she hasn’t really managed to get back into things much (she used to climb a bit, do aerial circus, etc) and often feels a bit stuck in a rut. Would be great to help her out of it into something, whatever that might be!Making some progress on this, I think, definitely been doing a bit more outdoor stuff as a family and also starting to create a bit more child free space for each other as well
Quote from: remus on July 03, 2022, 11:20:34 pmQuote from: Liamhutch89 on July 02, 2022, 11:11:02 amQuote from: Wellsy on July 02, 2022, 09:20:36 amMy aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year. If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.Funny you say that, I find the fool piss compared to fallen idol (which I haven't done despite having a few sessions on it). I'm no crimp waif but Im not completely shit on small holds either.Interesting. My finger strength on a 20mm edge is extremely poor for my climbing grade, but actually quite good on small edges. I've learnt that I need to be crimping at a very high angle and pulling outwards on the holds (like a pound shop Aidan), or I'm not very good! On my one visit to Roche, I had a power hour going right to left of Beef Buttress, trying all the independent lines up to 7B+. I started with Fallen Idol and nearly flashed it, but by the time I got to The Fool at the other end it felt pretty hard and I didn't quite finish it. It may be steady with adequate rest. However, I'm dubious of your grading since getting to try Kleptomania recently; it definitely felt harder than 7A+ to me! In fact it feels quite a bit harder than either the fool or fallen idol and I didn't manage to clip the chains that session. Quality moves though, so it's not too disappointing having to return!
I concur with Remus - Fallen Idol is miles harder than The Fool, and incomparably harder than the crux of Kelpto.
Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter (any day now) sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.
When's the traditional time to revisit this thread?
Climb one of each discipline from my "lifetime list" ticklistJerry's RoofDominatrixSome classic trad in Pembroke or N. WalesA long rock route in the mountainsTrain consistentlyDo at least 90% of planned sessionsClimb 50% of my "#ldnclmbr" ticklistMake outdoor sessions countHave a plan and visit specific routes/bouldersDo at least 2 sessions on each goal route/boulder
Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.
Trip of a lifetime sounds like a bigger win than any normal goal csl! What's on the #ldnclmbr ticklist?
The ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.
2 x 8A10 x ≥7Cside splits
1) Recover 100% from COVID2) 7b+ sport3) 7A boulderSetting lowish goals (apart from No1) is the way forward. I'd rather be unambitious and successful nowadays, so much less stressful