resources: Training (Coaches, books and web articles)

[krymson]

Looks like it's been mentioned before but not posted yet so I'll do the honors

Training Beta's interview with Adam Ondra

Lots of things that could be better and certainly not most efficient interview to listen to if you want training-dense information, but it offers a lot of insight into the making of probably the best climber in the world.

The most poignant training bits to me were the fact that he didnt start campusing or doing what he considered as "training" until he was 16, and that for the world cup he was doing hardcore patxi-style training 6 days a week with a university courseload, campusing twice a day sometimes.
:jaw:

 

[Sasquatch]

another link for the front page:

http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/

 

[Denbob99]

Really nice site that one, skimmed it just now and will dig into it properly tomorrow. Wish he had a few more pictures of the 'shrimp board' he mentions.

 

[blamo]

Here are a few pictures of the shrimpshrine: http://easyinstagram.com/shrimpshrine

 

[a dense loner]

Good looking board that. Won't get to read the blurb for few days tho. Like Steve Maisch's stuff

 

[Pako]

http://www.catsclimbing.com/search/label/Blog The first 2 posts are brilliant for showing someone how and why you should climb strong on a steep board. The video section of the blog is also quality for some simple beasting from some very very strong men.

 

[a dense loner]

Pako where's the video section? Am I being an idiot? There are some strong peeps who use cats, half of whom have prob never been outdoors. Very wise ;D

 

[slackline]

Pako where's the video section? Am I being an idiot?

Top right under "Navigation" is a "Video" link that takes you to their Vimeo page.

 

[a dense loner]

Cheers slackers, was on the mobile version which didn't offer any choices. Switched to main website et voila. Will keep my eyes open for stuff like that in future :sorry:

 

[lagerstarfish]

for fuck's sake

they do the decent thing and ban heels; then they go on about how using thumbs is OK!

I, for one, will not be visiting their grade brothel until things change of the better

 

[Pako]

for fuck's sake

they do the decent thing and ban heels; then they go on about how using thumbs is OK!

I, for one, will not be visiting their grade brothel until things change of the better

Yeah the thumb idea was a bit interesting, but it makes sense in a way I suppose. I can't really think of a situation where you can't crimp a hold, and it is the stronger grip, so... If he was advocating pinching the sides of every hold then it would be a different story, but he isn't.

 

[iain]

For Duma

On my phone amd can't find the training resource thread, but here will do. Training beta podcast with pooch: https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-021-alex-puccio/

and while I'm here:

It has been mentioned already elsewhere but definitely deserves inclusion in this thread. Alex Barrows interviewed at Training Beta.
https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/alex-barrows/?portfolioID=3838

Bill Ramsay up next on that site too ... should be good hopefully.

 

[slackline]

Train like a Pro : Q&A with Magnus Midtbo

 

[Oldmanmatt]

Whilst I have no opinion (feel free to educate me) on "Triggerpoint therapy", I find this useful.

http://www.myofascialtherapy.org/symptom-checker.html

Helps with understanding the root of a problem and describes where pain might be referred for specific muscle injuries.

 

[blamo]

A three part series with Usobiaga, Andrada, and Marin training and climbing. Not sure if it belongs here or somewhere else.

Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Onwh1roSM-Y

Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9CgRSsvD5U

Part 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqBDTGiZdxE

 

[slackline]

Literature Review of Isometric Strength Training by Steve Maisch :coffee:

 

[blamo]

A few training pieces by Will Anglin: http://willanglin.squarespace.com/training/

 

[Duma]

Is that what Will Atkinson is calling himself now he's a fisherman?

 

[andi_e]

Yeah, then renaming himself to Will Ganglin' when he inevitably returns to lanking climbing.

 

[Pako]

Anyone have any good articles on antagonist training for climbing? An article on good antagonist gym exercises for climbing would be much appreciated.