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jfdm,
I don't want to piss on your chips/video, but that's not very accurate. There's surely some strength training involved (campusing) but no power training. None of those excercises have a speed component, and power is strength x speed.
Also, there's no finger strength training. Endurance, yes, strength, no.
Moreover, the warm up part is very superficial.
Route climbing as a warm up for campusing? Yes, but book an appointment with your phisio first.
Each session should have a general warm up (gentle route climbing maybe) and a specific warm up prior to each excercise, that mimic the excercise at a lower intensity but with the same movement patterns.
My point is: if someone wants to give public training advice, the least they could do is do it well.
 
Well, short strength endurance (i.e. training that increase dL/dt like the finger-board protocol in the video) has some spill-over effects on strength, especially in the untrained individual (like me, e.g.). So there's always that.
 
Yes, absolutely, almost anything will help somehow.
I was just pointing out that, in my opinion, the whole thing wasn't accurately made and was somehow misleading.
 
Thanks Nibs, wasn't thinking about following the whole of the video to the letter.
Just some bits.
Agreed warm-up hopeless, just some guy route climbing.
I've been bouldering on plastic for about 3-4 yrs.
Having climbed quite a bit when I was younger. Inside/outside. Now 40.
Making some progress, v4/5 range by simply climbing 2-3 times a week.
Now want to do something more than just potter around.
Was thinking about once a week, strengthen dynamic snap and fingers.
Warm up routine - limbering 10-15 mins.
Easy probs for half hour - climbing warm up.
Some easy campusing on huge rounded rungs 2-4 round ladders.
Then some campusing, at wall only have medium campus rungs. Again ladders 2-4 rounds.
Do for 4 weeks. Then evaluate. Don't do above if tired.
Done the above for 2 weeks so far so good.
Weak areas for me flexability and generating power to move dynamically between holds.
 
Ok so that workout is a bit of everything.

But the campus routine, that is training power yeah? Or not at all? Or is the criticism that it is inferior to, say, a plyometric campus routine? Sorry if this is a dumb question...

Asking cos strength is not one of my weaknesses but "going for it" is, which is possibly because of a lack of power (as well as general technical crapness). I am looking to address this weakness in the coming months through embarking on some form of campus routine but currently shopping around for what to actually do this nice I get under the board.
 
Appreciate it nibs (or anyone else willing to advise).

FWIW, this is the routine I was looking to build something from. The plyo bit sounds a bit scary so was going to dip a toe in the water with the basics first.

Happy to start another thread of this isn't the place.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2015/04/campusing-part-1-for-powerbig-rungs-big.html
 
Power needs to be trained at loads of 30-60% of max, at as high velocity as possible for the given load. Very very few people can train power by pulling footless.

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jwi said:
Power needs to be trained at loads of 30-60% of max, at as high velocity as possible for the given load. Very very few people can train power by pulling footless.

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Click to expand...

Regardng the last sentence. This depends on the available equipment. If you are using a Campus board, sure, because most people lack the finger strength/conditioning.
However, if you take finger strength as separate issue during initial build up; a bar provides all you need. Starting with pull-up catches (where you pull up dynamically and briefly release the bar at the apex of the move), progressing through pull-up claps, Pull-up reaches (reaching as high above the bar as possible with each hand in turn) and eventually Muscle -ups.
Also, over sized Campus rungs or a rigid Bachar ladder, allow for a phased intro into footless Campusing.


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If you can do a single pullup (two arms) at or close to double bodyweight, by all mean train to increase power by doing quick pullups, otherwise some form of aid is needed. Steep board climbing w/ long moves?
 
Murph said:
Ok so that workout is a bit of everything.

But the campus routine, that is training power yeah? Or not at all? Or is the criticism that it is inferior to, say, a plyometric campus routine? Sorry if this is a dumb question...

Asking cos strength is not one of my weaknesses but "going for it" is, which is possibly because of a lack of power (as well as general technical crapness). I am looking to address this weakness in the coming months through embarking on some form of campus routine but currently shopping around for what to actually do this nice I get under the board.
Click to expand...
As others have said, speed is the essential component of power. So, to increase power you need to work at speed, whatever you do.
Regular campusing isn't fast enough, it's a bit more grinding through, and there also could be the fingers limiting factor.
Fast pull ups on a bar could be a good way to go, but as of late I'm getting more and more interested in full body power, because it has a greater effect on overall power output, nervous recruitment, etc.
So, I'm doing hill sprints, boxing bag, Olympic-style lifting, and even normal weights, focusing on speed.
Contrast training is also very useful and effective, but you have to be prepared.

In any case, if you feel that "going for it" is your weakness, I don't think it's related to power. To me it seems more a matter of "knack", of trying to latch the next hold despite being close to falling. I think that you could see good gains by practicing quite dynamic climbing, using holds that you can't lock off, so that you get used to go for it in an all out effort.
On the other hand, you can still become so strong that "going fo it" isn't anymore necessary.
;D
 
Thanks chaps lots of powerful advice here much appreciated.

I guess I'm drawn to the campus board because it seems pretty systematic to record training sessions and thereby set the bar higher next time. At least that's the attraction compared to limit bouldering where more variables and distractions come into play. But it isn't the only option and, as nibs said, could just be ground out which won't help with power much/at all.

Thanks specially for the pull up variation ideas. It's not just about weighted slow pulls with "good" form. Think I can make that work actually.

And as to the "become so strong" suggestion.... haha, yes of course for a specific problem but then it wouldn't be the limit any more, surely?! :worms:
 
jwi said:
If you can do a single pullup (two arms) at or close to double bodyweight, by all mean train to increase power by doing quick pullups otherwise...
Click to expand...

Hello, are you saying I would need to do 2x bw pull ups to train power on a pull-up bar? I can do nowhere near that, surely just doing some pull ups quickly with the aim of getting air time etc, as per OMMs suggestion would be a solid road to seeing gains?
 
I would say I was quite strong, but I have a PB of 64kg additional for 3 reps @75kg BW.
For ref, I can 1:5:7 on medium (24mm) rungs and 2:6:9 (matching) on large (34mm) rungs with a 4kg weight belt. (21cm spacing).
I know this is "average" or "meh" as Campusing goes.


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Steve House has a new website, mostly around selling training plans/coaching but also has some articles on Alpinism/mountain running/skimo etc.
 

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