Power Club 771 16 - 22 Sept 2024

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duncan

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Mostly plastic, some wood, no rock.

M - Hip flexibility: frog stretches, standing pancake stretches, sumo squats. Shoulder/elbow/wrist conditioning: reverse curls, lock-offs, hand-stands, side-planks.

T - CroyWall. This is a long way from north London and with public transport delays I could have driven to Forest Rock in a similar time. It’s a good wall with lots of space, there was still plenty of room after 20 school kids turned up. They have a moon board, woodie and good gym area. Setting is decent although with more (n>0) dynos than I would prefer and a few sketchy final moves. The locals were friendly and it was fun sharing beta with someone 1/4 my age and from an entirely different social background.

Shoulder conditioning to warm-up then a good session with multiple V4s including some flashes.

W - A bug of some sort, no vigorous exercise. Hip flexibility.

T - Still Bleurgh. Hip flexibility.

F - The Reach with csl. Shoulder conditioning to warm-up. Still a bit under-par so didn’t go mad but tried fairly hard onsighting a blobby 6b+ and falling off another.

Ride at the Roundhouse, lots of blokes like me behaving like it was 1994 again, great fun.

S - Shoulder conditioning. Light fingerboard session.

S - Shoulder conditioning. Continuing my tour of London walls with EustonWall. This one looks like an office atrium for a management consultancy with the holds standing in for the vaguely abstract artwork. The clientele appear to be mainly UCL students, mostly younger than my shoes. They have weights and boards rooms with a kilter and a 30 degree woodie. I had a good session on the latter, managing several 6As. One crimpy number felt like the crux of a Cornice 7a+ and would be great to lap for sport training. It’s my localest wall and I expect I’ll be back.

A decent training week, tweaks under control, but no climbing. Dodgy weather forecasts have meant cancelling two trips now, it's the time of year when it would be good to live closer than 3 hours from rock. Will be heading down to Weston next weekend for a few days and hope to get something done whilst I'm there. Best scenario would be some Devon DWS or tacking on a Pembroke trip. Get in touch through the usual channels.
 
Thanks Duncan,

Monday -

Fingerboard session at home
18mm edges
5 hangs BW + 7.5kg
Fingers felt tired this session. The warm up routine was harder than usual. Accumulation of Sunday’s feet on campus. Stopped after 4 hangs.

Tuesday
Feet on Campus 16,sets. 1 minute on & off.

Wednesday
Strength training at Virgin Gym

Thursday
Fingerboard session at home
18mm edges
3 hangs BW + 7.5kg
3 hangs total weight 91.1kg.
BW + 13.75kg
BW 77kg

12mm edges
total weight. 81.5kg.
Two hangs body weight plus 2.5kg
Four hangs body weight plus 5kg.

Friday
Rest

Saturday
Rest

Sunday
Feet on Campus
10sets 90s on/90s off.
5 pull ups on the minute. 5 sets
 
M - eve, TCA, 90 min. Brief attempts on some blacks but not feeling great and skin poor. Then upstairs to try some of the youth comp problems, climbed badly then split under a nail. Terrible session, odd given lots of psyche and plenty of rest.
T -
W - aft, Lan Fawr. Tried to climb here a year or so ago but rained off, unusual little sandstone prow with a lovely slopey pinch. Nice to have a tricky friction problem only an hour or so away. Did the easier things while warming up: Geonosis high (7A but really more like 6C) and French General 7A, this is the jump start to the main event, took a few goes to catch the pocket right and a couple more to find the position to catch the intermediate. Was struggling a bit with Geonosis 7B but Ollie arrived with much better beta and it went next go, fun problem and less of a filler than I'd thought. Then the real reason I was there, General Grievous 7C+. Lots of attempts with very little progress on the surface, until I split under my nail again. Actually feel like I learnt quite a bit about the moves, Ollie making a lot more progress certainly helped. Keen to get back.
T -
F -
S - lunch, TCA, 120 min. Front was reset so mostly steep stuff. 2 whites (1 flash, 1 took quite a bit of effort) 2 blacks (1 flash, 1 took a lot of effort). Attempts on another white and a black. Didn't try the blues. Decent session I think, and didn't split under my nail again thank fuck.
S - lunch, Redpoint, 90 min. First indoor routes for ages. 5+, 6b+, 7a, 7a, 7a+, 6c+. Felt like hard work unsurprisingly.

71 kg.
 
2 weeks from me
M
T. A really good hard shed session. There’s nothing else like pulling hard on small bits of wood
W
T. On the way to Newcastle to drop some furniture off for my son. Plan was to go to NY moors on the way but the forecast was iffy so I went to West Yorkshire’s premier bouldering venue Woolley edge Never again. The forecast for the moors was wrong as it was dry. Grr Did a few problems and didn’t get mugged. Had a great Bangladeshi meal from Ma’Ida table spread in walbottle
F. Rothley. Lovely rock. Didn’t do anything hard but had a great time and climbed for ages Hopefully I’ll be there again soon
S I bashed my knee on. Thursday and by Saturday it hurt too much to walk
S bad knee
M bad knee
T slightly better knee. Gardening digging
W. Carr head rocks with lagers. Fucking great
T
F Shed power. Did 2 projects which felt great
S
S. Beasting it on the maker of beasts as the weather was shite
 
Power Club

Mon - bar work!
Tue - gymnastic exercises; bentover rows. Lovely.
Wed - triceps, biceps, straight arm lateral and frontal pull downs. Yes!
Thu - farmer's heavy.
Fri - gym weights.
Sat - boxing bag, surprisingly good.
Sun - bar work, tired.
 
I've been slacking lately, both with training, on the rock, and logging...

Can summarise the last 2 months as "renovation work, some mountainbiking, some paddling and sporadic climbing session". Visited a few new crags, got massively sandbagged as usual (redpointing 6c, with some surprisingly tricky moves).

Back in the UK, and keen to get fit for a short Spain trip in November, and then all focus is on specific training to get my project at Dumby put to bed - it's now getting towards 15 sessions and I felt further away in the last two than some of the ones around 7-10 so it's time to take it seriously.

Monday: Hangar Edinburgh. Not feeling really well recovered from a fairly good session at Grip, Nijmegen on Saturday.
Tues: Nowt
Wed: work away day in Northumberland. Wish I'd take a mat and taken the morning off on the Thursday! Managed to avoid the booze entirely. We had a choice of using the spa, or getting an hour hitting balls at the driving range with a golf pro and some fancy kit that measures and tracks everything - kind cool. Actually hit quite a few decent, straight balls (haven't picked up a golf club in over 10 year, and never really been much into it).
Thurs: Quick TCA session before going to a performance at the Glasgow Cathedral festival. (singer was an old school friend)
Fri: Tender right forearm near the elbow...
Sat: Nice weather, still tender. Hmm...feels like "GOLFERS". Maybe an hour whacking balls as hard as I could muster wasn't the best idea... Sacked off climbing plans.
Sunday: Almost cleared up, still nice weather (outside Glasgow anyway!) so drove to Oban for a fun/low grade routes session. 6a, 6a+, 6b+/6c, 6b, 6c. Took a rest on the last one due to an exploding foothold and getting surprisingly pumped.
 
Monday - nothing
Tuesday - nothing
Weds - evening at the Cheedale cornice. Clipstick/rope-climbed up Unleashing to get the clips in then belay duties
Thurs - disappointing session at the works, not sure I did anything…
Fri - nothing
Sat - Cornice, unsuccessful flash attempt of Cosmopolitan then unsuccessful redpoint attempt.
Sun - a bit of stretching in the morning then the Works, mostly aimless ambling around while the kids climbed with Megos.

Not a classic, and the weather has now gone crap, bah!
 
Power Club:

78ish kg

Mon - Tue. Away for work
Wed. Nowt
Thu. Board session in the evening, had a handful of new Strongholds to put on the board which made for some very nice crimp problems. Stopped fairly quickly after going through skin, oops
Fri - Sun. Decorating / potty training :'(
 
Shite week. Buckled with work and still feeling lingering cold.

M - nothing - work deadline.
T - nothing bar short walk at lunch with colleague.
W - nothing, work deadline. Scouts evening.
T - lunch run. Well, started as run, then noticed field i was passing had been cut, so quick access to part of coast I had been meaning to explore. The buttress / boulder I had spotted from the sea was actually crap; really featured brittle rock, but spotted other potential nearby that will need revisiting.
F - nothing - work deadline. Had hoped to climb, but weather damp and overcast. Think I did some token kettlebells.
S - wall session. Belayed Kyle for a bit, then bouldered. Pleased to manage one of probs that I didn't do last week fairly easily, then set to work figuring out some tall person beta for top of other, kneebar unlocked it and sealed the deal. Not really close on anything else, just circuited everything else I could do. Surprisingly good session given lack of climbing.
S - Was hoping to get out but another dismal day. Ended up just going for evening run - 10km.
 
duncan said:
Ride at the Roundhouse, lots of blokes like me behaving like it was 1994 again, great fun.

Lucky then that shoe gazing is likely to be the least injurious of all dances for the aging muso!
 
Woolley Edge is great :spank: (on a fresh windy day when the Peak is shower-drenched and you can blast up the fantastic selection of: Barrel House Arete 6C/+, Sambucus 6C+, Lessons In Depth 7A/+ and Gazelle 6C/+, then sit in your car and admire the sunset over Emley Moor tower through a haze of weed smoke).



Next week STG: Slightly less shit (rollover) - No. Mental health poor, trad still weak.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - No, still distant. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - very mixed bag, hooked up with some local friends but equally backed out of furthering connections elsewhere, and some mixed communication. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - yes. Look after injuries - tried to look after elbow but still tweaky, shoulders okay but lots of tension in neck, (gym x 1) - no, elbow rehab x 2 - yes, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - no.


M - Active rest. Patioed a damp cave floor. 1 x E1. Scraped back on cave entrance twice in succession, banged head on cave roof, slipped over whilst carrying rocks and jarred my shoulder, dropped a rock on my fingernail, got rope-burn on my armpit from jumping off route start, and sprayed water up my nose whilst trying to have a drink.

T - Active rest. 1 hour digging mud. 1 x HVS hillwalk. Elbow sore.

W - Active rest. 1 x E2. Elbow less sore. Elbow rehab.

T - Active rest. 30 mins misc tree clearance. Evening partner bailed at last minute with shit communication. Soloed 4 x VS-ish mini-hillwalks.

F - Active rest. 30 mins cleaning and trundling. 2 x E1 hillwalks. Elbow sore. Elbow rehab.

S - Bumbling @ Trowbarrow after 3 lots of plans fell through. 1 x E1 (in sun, desperate), 1 x E2 (in shade and breeze, piss). Felt a bit more inspired with climbing in general. Elbow less sore.

S - Directly following from feeling a bit more inspired with climbing in general, weather crapped out craptacularly. Indoor routes @ Summit Up. F6b, 3 x F6c, 3 x F6c+, 3 x F7a, attempted F7a+ and fell off last move. Good practise falls on all of them. Elbow slightly sore but okay.


Mental health bad due to personal stuff going on, bumbling on the rock, no motivation for conditioning / stretching / fitness stuff, and elbow definitely tweaked. Lots of brief local micro-sessions doing one or two easy trad routes, but almost no progress with regaining ability / confidence. However the very end of the week - an E2 that I felt slightly competent on, and an indoor session that was quite decent - gave a small glimmer of hope.


Next week STG: Condition body and try to train a bit more.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
 
Teaboy said:
duncan said:
Ride at the Roundhouse, lots of blokes like me behaving like it was 1994 again, great fun.

Lucky then that shoe gazing is likely to be the least injurious of all dances for the aging muso!

;D

The band behaved stereotypically, the dads were surprisingly lively. I imagine a few north London physiotherapists got phone calls the following morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLFWmSJQSnc&t=102s
 
Winding down before Kalymnos club...

M: Recovery from Stanage Struggle
T: Setup Moonboard @ ABC, propper graft! Routes @ AW - Doubles F6a+/F6b+, F6b/F6b+, F6c/F6c, F6c/F6b+ Tired so sacked it off after that...
W: More MB setup @ ABC - Not quite as hard but still pretty full on!
T: Rest
F: Paddling down the Derwent - full on day of it! Tired arms!
S: Equinox Festival - General Levy... Wicked, wicked, Junglist Massive! Not sure what time I went to bed or if I actually slept....
S: Recovery day followed by playing 4 hrs of Dancehall to a packed tent... Ace! Destroyed.....

Pretty steady week but did do some stuff - feeling fit enough, or was til I smashed it on the weekend! Generally uninjured so probably keep it steady til I fly on Friday... Sure 3 weeks in Kalymnos will sort me right out! Whoop whoop!
 

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