Quote from: shark on October 06, 2015, 09:09:14 am11.11-12please let that be a typo
11.11-12
Quote from: lagerstarfish on October 06, 2015, 09:11:45 amQuote from: shark on October 06, 2015, 09:09:14 am11.11-12please let that be a typo Still not adjusted my thinking after 30 years of starting with an 11
Sorry but... Didn't know that PUTP was 7c+!!! I thought it was Font 8a or more! Good effort TB! Mega classic.
F - Ill & job interviews
Quote from: Sasquatch on October 05, 2015, 06:24:54 pmWhat exactly is the a la Steve Maisch version?and (Dumb question I know) but are max hangs max weight or max duration?
What exactly is the a la Steve Maisch version?
Interesting. I actually tweaked my fb-ing to fit in with doing the 5/3/1 weights as well, but I did it slightly different. I did one day of minimum edge depth hangs (6mm edge), and one day of max added weight on an 18mm edge. I assumed 1 rep = 3sec. Then I followed the same protocol as the 5-3-1 for % of max. I was surprised at how effective it was. I wasn't aiming at finger improvement, just hoping to keep them reasonable while doing the other weight stuff. Just had a moonboard session last night and was pleasantly surprised by both my fingers and my body tension. Power still felt a bit off, but was definitely one of my best sessions on the board, managing 3 new problems 7B+, and 2 7C's in a session. Typically 7B and up will take me a bit more work on the moonboard.
S: Nowra DWS. Heat wave, usually low 20s, now mid 30s. ........ Great to be back over water, all other problems/routes/moves so much easier now after winter.... So fun. Love it.S: ....... Got hot, laid in sun on beach, then spa later. Good day.
Quote from: Sasquatch on October 06, 2015, 06:47:41 pmInteresting. I actually tweaked my fb-ing to fit in with doing the 5/3/1 weights as well, but I did it slightly different. I did one day of minimum edge depth hangs (6mm edge), and one day of max added weight on an 18mm edge. I assumed 1 rep = 3sec. Then I followed the same protocol as the 5-3-1 for % of max. I was surprised at how effective it was. I wasn't aiming at finger improvement, just hoping to keep them reasonable while doing the other weight stuff. Just had a moonboard session last night and was pleasantly surprised by both my fingers and my body tension. Power still felt a bit off, but was definitely one of my best sessions on the board, managing 3 new problems 7B+, and 2 7C's in a session. Typically 7B and up will take me a bit more work on the moonboard.To be fair, this is the first time I've followed (and stuck with) a structured fingerboarding programme, so perhaps my gains are purely from a low base..
Sounds great. One of the best days out I ever had was a late start, up Idwal slabs, continuation wall, Cneifon arete, Chasm route on Glyder fach, down Bristly ridge then over Tryfan as the sunset. I was only climbing about E2 at the time, had a team of VS climbers in tow and it was a revelation to cover so much ground in an afternoon when we usually spent all day over a few S pitches. Mega.
Last point on this - I just did a strength benchmark after taking nearly a week off. My B3 max hang (weakest) has gone up 66%, my F3 up nearly 40% and my pinch strength has gone up nearly 25%. I didn't test my M2 because I was quite tired from the other tests, but the gains are significant in my opinion.
Quote from: the_dom on October 09, 2015, 05:26:25 pmLast point on this - I just did a strength benchmark after taking nearly a week off. My B3 max hang (weakest) has gone up 66%, my F3 up nearly 40% and my pinch strength has gone up nearly 25%. I didn't test my M2 because I was quite tired from the other tests, but the gains are significant in my opinion.How are you measuring the %? % of added weight, or % of total hanging weight?