Quote from: T_B on October 05, 2015, 08:58:58 amMajor coup for me to do PUTP. Training wise, need to get a plan together, though nice at the mo to have no plan Ooh I like the Bollinger sequence, what a great idea. This is as big as the MLm sequence on Brad Pit!
Major coup for me to do PUTP. Training wise, need to get a plan together, though nice at the mo to have no plan
Quote from: tomtom on October 04, 2015, 01:08:08 pmTu: Tideswell Dale. Fancied something a bit different - and went with the idea of getting "ET Bone Home" 7A+ done... no chance.. I boned and boned and boned with my LH, but couldnt get any higher. At 7a+ you have to use a very committing heel-toe which feels pretty nasty without a spotter.
Tu: Tideswell Dale. Fancied something a bit different - and went with the idea of getting "ET Bone Home" 7A+ done... no chance.. I boned and boned and boned with my LH, but couldnt get any higher.
Quote from: Bonjoy on October 05, 2015, 08:41:28 amQuote from: tomtom on October 04, 2015, 01:08:08 pmTu: Tideswell Dale. Fancied something a bit different - and went with the idea of getting "ET Bone Home" 7A+ done... no chance.. I boned and boned and boned with my LH, but couldnt get any higher. At 7a+ you have to use a very committing heel-toe which feels pretty nasty without a spotter.it's 7a+ now? get in!
What exactly is the a la Steve Maisch version?
For me they are max weight for a set time on a set hold size
Whistlers weird.. Took me ages to get at first - then got it first go showing some folks the beta - then shit down on it next time. Could be I'm just shit though!
MTG STG: Do a 7bT: Fingerboard, max hangs 20mm edge +30kg.
So, thought I'd have a crack at this to try and keep the psyche up, especially as work and family stuff likely to be hectic in the next few months.STG: Get up to the grit moreMTG: Do a 7bLTG: Don't get brokenM: Nowt, busted after a heavy session at Biblins.T: Quick swim.W: TCA, 2hrs. Woody Wednesday. Failed to do anything of note, although Fun was had.T: Fingerboard, max hangs 20mm edge +30kg.F: Day trip to Burbage. Astonishingly hot, but lovely day pootling on easy stuff. Had a crack at Boyager - reckon with a bit of beta refinement this should go in another session or two. Annoyingly managed to drop the last hold of Breakfast at the end of the day.S: Rest, no skin.S: Run, 5km.
Boyager is not too bad- slightly different beta for different altitude of climber - but generally pull on, hug and squeeze. Lots of slightly different beta below. From looking at that again, I remember that getting that left heel (1/2 way along the block) is the important part. Once thats on well the rest clicks...
11.11-12
Quote from: Hugh on October 05, 2015, 08:40:55 pmMTG STG: Do a 7bT: Fingerboard, max hangs 20mm edge +30kg.You're deadhanging 10kg more than me so you must be able to climb a grade harder, no probs.
Boyager is not too bad - slightly different beta for different altitude of climber - but generally pull on, hug and squeeze. Lots of slightly different beta below. From looking at that again, I remember that getting that left heel (1/2 way along the block) is the important part. Once thats on well the rest clicks...
Quote from: Muenchener on October 06, 2015, 06:53:45 amQuote from: Hugh on October 05, 2015, 08:40:55 pmMTG STG: Do a 7bT: Fingerboard, max hangs 20mm edge +30kg.You're deadhanging 10kg more than me so you must be able to climb a grade harder, no probs.Yep, don't think finger strength is the limiting factor (although I do find max hangs strangely satisfying). Need to get my head sorted I suspect - I've come close on several (soft) 7Bs, but end up getting nervous and balls up the last move.Quote from: tomtom on October 06, 2015, 08:27:23 amBoyager is not too bad - slightly different beta for different altitude of climber - but generally pull on, hug and squeeze. Lots of slightly different beta below. From looking at that again, I remember that getting that left heel (1/2 way along the block) is the important part. Once thats on well the rest clicks...Cheers, good stuff. I'd been trying to get the left heel set - suspect it was a bit low. Will persevere next time.I know it's more of a 7A+ (but the guide says....). Hopefully might inspire a bit of confidence though...Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pass, solo'd Flying Buttress and Wrinkle in the evening sun. Had never done either before. Glorious routes, rock and weather, I think I appreciated them more by soloing and it felt so much fun. Actually one of the best little snippets of climbing all year - this, Wide Asleep, Oak and Shine On. never been that into soloing but it seems a good way to experience classic low-grade mountain routes for the first time. The ocd/ticking mentality part of me is now attracted to the idea doing a thousand metres of soloing quality vdiffs that I haven't done before in an afternoon.