[petejh]

Effort TB.

STG: Re-hab bicep tendon. Slab climbing. Soloing. Build chain resiliance for burly DT training.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (this winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.25 years)


M. TRX and kettlebell workout.
T.
W. Eccentric curls 2x15 & 3x10 (12Kg). Curls 3x10 (6Kg). Reverse arm press hold 45 secs X2.
T. Chiro. Another 4 weeks before bicep ready for begining moderate loading (i.e. winter training on axes)
F.
S. Craig Cwyn Trwsgl. Late 2 pm start. Did Efnisien, Angel of Destruction and Day of Reckoning. Perfect rock and lovely routes - especially Angel in 1 pitch and Day of. Topped out in dark and out through Beddgelert forest by headtorch. Good afternoon in the hills.
S. TRX and kettbell workout. Curls 3x10 (6Kg). Eccentric curls 2x10 (12Kg). Reverse arm press hold 60secs. Pass, solo'd Flying Buttress and Wrinkle in the evening sun. Had never done either before. Glorious routes, rock and weather, I think I appreciated them more by soloing and it felt so much fun. Actually one of the best little snippets of climbing all year - this, Wide Asleep, Oak and Shine On. never been that into soloing but it seems a good way to experience classic low-grade mountain routes for the first time. The ocd/ticking mentality part of me is now attracted to the idea doing a thousand metres of soloing quality vdiffs that I haven't done before in an afternoon.


Bicep tendon still making slow progress.

[dave]

Major coup for me to do PUTP. Training wise, need to get a plan together, though nice at the mo to have no plan 

Ooh I like the Bollinger sequence, what a great idea. This is as big as the MLm sequence on Brad Pit!

Hope you have better luck on the move to the jug than me!

[Wood FT]

Tu: Tideswell Dale. Fancied something a bit different  - and went with the idea of getting "ET Bone Home" 7A+ done... no chance.. I boned and boned and boned with my LH, but couldnt get any higher.

At 7a+ you have to use a very committing heel-toe which feels pretty nasty without a spotter.

it's 7a+ now? get in!

[Nibile]

Sorry but... Didn't know that PUTP was 7c+!!! I thought it was Font 8a or more!
Good effort TB! Mega classic.

[tomtom]

Tu: Tideswell Dale. Fancied something a bit different  - and went with the idea of getting "ET Bone Home" 7A+ done... no chance.. I boned and boned and boned with my LH, but couldnt get any higher.

At 7a+ you have to use a very committing heel-toe which feels pretty nasty without a spotter.

it's 7a+ now? get in!

Sorry - my typo. 7B..

[Sasquatch]

STG - Some fun stuff in Tahoe(Oct 16-30), hopefuuly snag an 8A or 2...
MTG - Train and stay healthy through the winter - figure out lifestyle w/new job/business
LTG - To Bolt or Not to Be, Spotted Dick Project

3rd week of 5-3-1 cycle - Max days

M-Boulder 30min up to 7C, then Max Bench (4x165lbs), FB-MED(5sec on 5mmedge +20lbs), then 5x10x(Bench, Squats, Abroll on knees, and 18mm hang)
T-Boulder 30min up to 7B, Max Deadlift(3x360lbs), Wtd Pullups (3x110), then 5x10x(DL, OH Press, ankle to bar)
W-REST
T-Boulder 30min up to 7B+, Max Squats(3x165), FB-MAW(5sec, 18mm,+110), then 5x10x(Bench, Squats, Abroll on knees, and 18mm hang)
F-Boulder 30min up to 7B, Max OH Press(3x100lbs), Max Inverted Rows(3xBW+90), then 5x10x(DL, OH Press, ankle to bar, Rows)
S- Climb routes w mrs squatch - 5 sets of 3 routes mostly 5.11 and 5.12.  Fun and tired.
S- 7mi hilly trail run w mrs squatch

Felt good and did new maxes at each weight (except FB-MAW, which I'm still working back to max and was suprising close).  My body feels really good right now, strong and fit.  Climbing wise, I've been so run down each day that it's hard to say exactly where I'm at.  I need to spend a bit more time actually climbing this coming week. 

[the_dom]

Mon: Bouldering and max hangs a la Steve Maisch. Starting to feel like it's working.
Tues: Weights
Wed: Bouldering
Thurs: Max hangs
Fri: Treadmill
Sat: Bouldering and max hangs
Sun: Bouldering and unweighted one arm max hangs

The max hangs that I've been doing seem to have made a real difference in terms of finger strength - one of my major weaknesses.

[Sasquatch]

What exactly is the a la Steve Maisch version?

[tomtom]

What exactly is the a la Steve Maisch version?

and (Dumb question I know) but are max hangs max weight or max duration?

[Sasquatch]

For me they are max weight for a set time on a set hold size

[Sasquatch]

What exactly is the a la Steve Maisch version?

The reason I ask is that I've heard seen a few different fb protocols from him. 

[tomtom]

For me they are max weight for a set time on a set hold size

Thanks

[Muenchener]

What exactly is the a la Steve Maisch version?

I've been doing what he describes n his training beta podcast.

Three grips: half crimp, pinch, middle 2. The max weight I can hold for 10 to 12 sets, 3 to 5 reps per grip with long (2 to 4 minute) rests.

[Sasquatch]

So pretty similar to Eva Lopez's, but add in pinch and mid 2 open...

[rodma]

Whistlers weird.. Took me ages to get at first - then got it first go showing some folks the beta - then shit down on it next time. Could be I'm just shit though!

Haha. No it is weird.

Anna found a very morpho knee bar (on the original not the eliminate ), which let her static the top crux. She got the one bar so good she could take both hands off. I tried and there is no knee bar.

The direct is weird and good. I'm pretty sure I could fall outright on it next session

[a dense loner]

PUTP gets 8a+ route grade nibs

[Hugh]

So, thought I'd have a crack at this to try and keep the psyche up, especially as work and family stuff likely to be hectic in the next few months.

STG: Get up to the grit more
MTG: Do a 7b
LTG: Don't get broken

M: Nowt, busted after a heavy session at Biblins.
T: Quick swim.
W: TCA, 2hrs. Woody Wednesday. Failed to do anything of note, although Fun was had.
T: Fingerboard, max hangs 20mm edge +30kg.
F: Day trip to Burbage. Astonishingly hot, but lovely day pootling on easy stuff. Had a crack at Boyager - reckon with a bit of beta refinement this should go in another session or two. Annoyingly managed to drop the last hold of Breakfast at the end of the day.
S: Rest, no skin.
S: Run, 5km.

[Muenchener]

MTG STG: Do a 7b

T: Fingerboard, max hangs 20mm edge +30kg.

You're deadhanging 10kg more than me so you must be able to climb a grade harder, no probs.

[tomtom]

So, thought I'd have a crack at this to try and keep the psyche up, especially as work and family stuff likely to be hectic in the next few months.

STG: Get up to the grit more
MTG: Do a 7b
LTG: Don't get broken

M: Nowt, busted after a heavy session at Biblins.
T: Quick swim.
W: TCA, 2hrs. Woody Wednesday. Failed to do anything of note, although Fun was had.
T: Fingerboard, max hangs 20mm edge +30kg.
F: Day trip to Burbage. Astonishingly hot, but lovely day pootling on easy stuff. Had a crack at Boyager - reckon with a bit of beta refinement this should go in another session or two. Annoyingly managed to drop the last hold of Breakfast at the end of the day.
S: Rest, no skin.
S: Run, 5km.

Boyager is not too bad - slightly different beta for different altitude of climber - but generally pull on, hug and squeeze. Lots of slightly different beta below. From looking at that again, I remember that getting that left heel (1/2 way along the block) is the important part. Once thats on well the rest clicks...

[nai]

Boyager is not too bad- slightly different beta for different altitude of climber - but generally pull on, hug and squeeze. Lots of slightly different beta below. From looking at that again, I remember that getting that left heel (1/2 way along the block) is the important part. Once thats on well the rest clicks...

Great problem but if you're doing it as a first 7B you'll be shocked when you try your next one.

[shark]

11.11-12

M.
T. Malham met Tom Frost there at 3.30pm. Just us - Steve and Paul rocked up an hour later from Lakes Still hot so hang around for further 20 mons before getting on Consenting. Cloud cover made it cooler than sunday but generally still with a few midges. Go 1 New second best highpoint reaching into final gaston. Go 2 touched horn Go 3 To final traverse coming into sidepull Go 4 Touched horn. Not perfect conditions and maybe 1 rest day not quite enough. Generally finding it harder to psyche up for big redpoint goes. Decided to leave it till next Monday for next visit
W. Noon AeroCap on Systems board. Felt hungry and ate all day
T. Eve. Out to Burbage Earl with the boys. Lovely evening Got to work on Little Rascal 7A. Superb problem, Managed the hard start to the slopey ledge but puntered going for the large sloping ledge. Tempted to take a short rope to clean the mung from the back of the groove when I next go. Lovely evening
F.
S. Drove to Devon
S. Drove back from the Devon

Vacillated over what to do this week – rest or train. In end decided I needed to rest but also ended up eating and drinking too much.

Went to Malham yesterday (Monday) but it was condensed to fuck.

Going again on Friday but feel my chances are slipping away   

[lagerstarfish]

11.11-12

please let that be a typo

[Hugh]

MTG STG: Do a 7b

T: Fingerboard, max hangs 20mm edge +30kg.

You're deadhanging 10kg more than me so you must be able to climb a grade harder, no probs.

Yep, don't think finger strength is the limiting factor (although I do find max hangs strangely satisfying). Need to get my head sorted I suspect - I've come close on several (soft) 7Bs, but end up getting nervous and balls up the last move.

Boyager is not too bad - slightly different beta for different altitude of climber - but generally pull on, hug and squeeze. Lots of slightly different beta below. From looking at that again, I remember that getting that left heel (1/2 way along the block) is the important part. Once thats on well the rest clicks...

Cheers, good stuff. I'd been trying to get the left heel set - suspect it was a bit low. Will persevere next time.

I know it's more of a 7A+ (but the guide says....). Hopefully might inspire a bit of confidence though...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tommytwotone]

MTG STG: Do a 7b

T: Fingerboard, max hangs 20mm edge +30kg.

You're deadhanging 10kg more than me so you must be able to climb a grade harder, no probs.

Yep, don't think finger strength is the limiting factor (although I do find max hangs strangely satisfying). Need to get my head sorted I suspect - I've come close on several (soft) 7Bs, but end up getting nervous and balls up the last move.

Boyager is not too bad - slightly different beta for different altitude of climber - but generally pull on, hug and squeeze. Lots of slightly different beta below. From looking at that again, I remember that getting that left heel (1/2 way along the block) is the important part. Once thats on well the rest clicks...

Cheers, good stuff. I'd been trying to get the left heel set - suspect it was a bit low. Will persevere next time.

I know it's more of a 7A+ (but the guide says....). Hopefully might inspire a bit of confidence though...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This thread I started a while back on the Font 7b tip may be of use...still keen to get on stuff if you're ever up  / about - drop me a PM if you want a mat / spotter etc.


http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21440.msg390824.html#msg390824

[Johnny Brown]

Pass, solo'd Flying Buttress and Wrinkle in the evening sun. Had never done either before. Glorious routes, rock and weather, I think I appreciated them more by soloing and it felt so much fun. Actually one of the best little snippets of climbing all year - this, Wide Asleep, Oak and Shine On. never been that into soloing but it seems a good way to experience classic low-grade mountain routes for the first time. The ocd/ticking mentality part of me is now attracted to the idea doing a thousand metres of soloing quality vdiffs that I haven't done before in an afternoon.

Sounds great. One of the best days out I ever had was a late start, up Idwal slabs, continuation wall, Cneifon arete, Chasm route on Glyder fach, down Bristly ridge then over Tryfan as the sunset. I was only climbing about E2 at the time, had a team of VS climbers in tow and it was a revelation to cover so much ground in an afternoon when we usually spent all day over a few S pitches. Mega.