[shark]

11.11-12

please let that be a typo

 

Still  not adjusted my thinking after 30 years of starting with an 11

[tomtom]

11.11-12

please let that be a typo

 

Still  not adjusted my thinking after 30 years of starting with an 11

Chinny recon, Arbuckle

[cowboyhat]

Sorry but... Didn't know that PUTP was 7c+!!! I thought it was Font 8a or more!
Good effort TB! Mega classic.

Its 7d+, floating around in the cosmic grade tide on its own.



Somehow still retains the original route grade of 8A+ despite being harder than many many Font 8a boulders. Nothing for free down the Tor.

[Nibile]

 
In my case, nothing for free ever, anywhere.

[ashtond6]

annoying week being ill:


MTG - 7b/+
LTG?

M - Rest
T - Ill
W - Ill
T - Ill
F - Ill & job interviews
S - Worked unforgiven 7b & half breed 7b - could do all the moves but no gas in the tank with illness
S - tried to RP unforgiven, still no gas. Flashed long F7a (V3-4 boulder traverse)

Still promising, as these routes are cruxy & stamina shouldn't be a problem when I'm well again 

[shark]

F - Ill & job interviews

Not a great combination. Hope they went OK

[mr chaz]

STG Get on some 8As
LTG Do an 8A

M.
T. Max hangs, no assistance. Pressups and core workout.
W. Indoor bouldering, working on yellow circuit at the BBC.
T. Indoor bouldering at BBC
F. My birthday  - which was spent at work 
S.
S. Roaches. Had a look at Tetris. Did the stand (Hard Arete 7A+). Started unlocking the moves for the full problem. Quite hot though with no breeze so moved on.
Ramshaw. Went to cross off Tierdrop from my must do list. Wow, what a cool satisfying climb that is, definitely a favourite. 2nd go after falling from the last move on flash.



Decent week overall. Great to get outside on Sunday, even better that it was on grit.

[the_dom]

What exactly is the a la Steve Maisch version?

and (Dumb question I know) but are max hangs max weight or max duration?

It's basically the protocol he describes on a combination of his website and the trainingbeta podcast with him - effectively, I picked 4 holds - F3 and B3 half crimp on the small BM2K rung, M2 on the medium pockets and pinches with a home made pinch block. Then I worked out my hang - i.e. the most weight I could hang for more than 10s but less than 13s. Then I started with 3 10s hangs per hold, 3 mins break for 2 sessions. Then 4 hangs for 2 sessions. Then 5.

After that, I tweaked it to align to the 5/3/1 protocol (sort of) - session 1 was 3 sets of 6 hang repeaters on F3 and B3 with approx. 30 - 40% of my 1RM weight (weighted to fail on the last rep). Session 2 was the same repeaters on M2 and pinches with approx. the same proportion of 1RM weight.

Sessions 3 and 4 were 3 sets of 3 hang repeaters, but with closer to 75% of 1RM. Session 3 was F3 and B3, session 4 was M2 and pinches.

Finally, sessions 5 and 6 were 1 set of 6 hang repeaters at approx. 50% of 1RM,  1 set of 3 hang repeaters at approx. 80% of 1RM and 4 10 sec hangs at approx. 120% of 1RM - session 5 with F3 and B3, session 6 with M2 and pinches. Again, 3 - 4 mins rest between.

Hope that helps - I really found it beneficial - as evidenced by the improvement in 1RM by the end, where I was comfortably getting through max hangs (after repeaters) at approx. 120% of my previous 1RM. By the way, I picked F3 and B3 half crimps because I didn't have enough weight to get to a max hang on all 4. That said, I probably used rather small amounts of weight anyway..

[nik at work]

VSTG - Trad project??
STG - Margalef 8c
NQSSTG - Trad project and an 8A
MTG - Ermm..
LTG - 9a
BHAG - Bruderliebe

M - BM session +20kg. Standard session plus threw in a few one arm hangs to mix it up, oooof!
T - Nothing
W - #1 son at climbing wall with cubs so me and 'er indoors decided to go along for a climb. Did the last round of the summer boulder league, 30 problems flashed 29 got the other second go. Then did some routes.
T - climbing outside with the wife, just a couple of S-ish routes, pleasant evening.
F - Nothing I think??
S - Outside with Doug, did training traverse four times to warm up. Then worked steep trad project. really focussed on crux sequence. It's 9 moves, I can reliably do the first 2. I've hit but not latched the 3rd move, hit but not latched the 4th move, hit but not latched the 5th move, latched the 6th move, done the 7th 8th and 9th moves. Got trashed trying this, it's super powerful and technical and just plain hard. Then went in the chasm and top-roped the vert project pretty easily. It's still very bold though.
S - Daycare and posh afternoon tea with lots of little cakes, nom nom.

Pretty good week, it's now four weeks until Margalef. I've had an annoying right middle finger tweak that seems to be on the mend, close to full strength now I'd say. The right ring finger is still troubling me, annoying. Otherwise body in pretty good shape I think. I'd like to be doing more climbing and training and less work and DIY but if you will choose to have a family... Chasm project is frutrating me, conditions are pretty good right now, but there is a couple of seepage lines that will grow, I don't want to do it before Margalef as if I did injure myself pre trip I'd be gutted, but after Margalef it will probably be out of condition until next year some time, and I want to do it this year, aaarghh, anyway think I'm leaving it until after Margalef and just hoping this dry weather continues into Nov.

[Sasquatch]

Interesting.  I actually tweaked my fb-ing to fit in with doing the 5/3/1 weights as well, but I did it slightly different.  I did one day of minimum edge depth hangs (6mm edge), and one day of max added weight on an 18mm edge.  I assumed 1 rep = 3sec.  Then I followed the same protocol as the 5-3-1 for % of max. 

I was surprised at how effective it was.  I wasn't aiming at finger improvement, just hoping to keep them reasonable while doing the other weight stuff.  Just had a moonboard session last night and was pleasantly surprised by both my fingers and my body tension.  Power still felt a bit off, but was definitely one of my best sessions on the board, managing 3 new problems 7B+, and 2 7C's in a session.  Typically 7B and up will take me a bit more work on the moonboard.

[the_dom]

Interesting.  I actually tweaked my fb-ing to fit in with doing the 5/3/1 weights as well, but I did it slightly different.  I did one day of minimum edge depth hangs (6mm edge), and one day of max added weight on an 18mm edge.  I assumed 1 rep = 3sec.  Then I followed the same protocol as the 5-3-1 for % of max. 

I was surprised at how effective it was.  I wasn't aiming at finger improvement, just hoping to keep them reasonable while doing the other weight stuff.  Just had a moonboard session last night and was pleasantly surprised by both my fingers and my body tension.  Power still felt a bit off, but was definitely one of my best sessions on the board, managing 3 new problems 7B+, and 2 7C's in a session.  Typically 7B and up will take me a bit more work on the moonboard.

To be fair, this is the first time I've followed (and stuck with) a structured fingerboarding programme, so perhaps my gains are purely from a low base..

[Luke Owens]

Double update as I missed last week.

M: Pack up and drive back from Ceuse.

T: Travelling and sleep

W: Cebeebies land with the little one

T: Fingerboard -

30mm edge - open 3 fingers: - 10 secs, 10 secs, 10 secs (+5kg)
20mm edge - open 3 fingers: - 3 secs, 10 secs (-9kg), 10secs (-8kg)
20mm edge - half-crimp 4 fingers: - 3 secs, 8 secs (-8kg), 5 secs (-8kg)
30mm pocket - Middle 2: - 10 secs, 8 secs (+5kg), 7 secs (+5kg)
30mm pocket - Front 2: - 5 secs, 10 secs (-5kg), 10 secs (-5kg)
20 degree LH/30 degree RH slopers: - 10 secs, 10 secs, 10 secs
20 degree RH/30 degree LF slopers: - 10 secs, 10 secs, 10 secs

F: Rest

S: Harmers Wood with the little one, he loved it there psyched out of his mind running around. Classroom quarry, flashed loads up to 6A+, flashed a 6B+ and did another 6B+ in a few goes.

S: Rest

M: Diamond - Grease fest, put clips in on Half Light 7a+/b (Basically the lower part of Wall of Evening Light) had to towel dry every hold and worked the moves. 2nd go on top rope did all the moves and dried some more holds. Had a redpoint and got to just before the last couple of moves and couldn't pull through on a greasy hold. Redpath looking strong on his monster proj.

T: Rest

W: Harmers Wood with the little one again - 6A repeat and 6A flash, had loads of goes on Yates Layaway (6C) would do the last move to get the finishing jugs, just couldn't reach. Need to figure out some different beta. Ran around trying to find bats with head torches on, little one was psyched!

T: Rest

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Little Orme - Went to try a project that Pete H bolted and kindly said I could do: Cheers buddy! First go up had to do a lot of cleaning but did all but one seemingly impossible move/couple of moves low down. 2nd go felt better on all the sections but the one move still seems impossible at the moment. Right hand 3 finger pocket, marginal holds for the LH and tiny footholds for feet, somehow need to get from there to 2 undercut jugs about a 1.5m higher... Feels about 7b+/c

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing
Tue. Board easyish mirror session bit of a battle at times.
Wed. Bike 1 hour.
Thu. Board did a session I did this week last year, although I feel I'm not climbing well I'm no worse than  I was last year.
Fri. Bike 1 hour. Grandson to stay.
Sat. Board struggled just lapped a couple of problems. Entertain grandson and visit family.
Sun. Bike 52.91 miles 3 hrs18 mins. Felt knackered afterwards.
Struggling getting back in to a routine after my holidays.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.


M: Rest
T: Frontline. Weird session. Housemate is into down climbing problems atm. I finally finished off Paratroopin, a V7 I've tried on and off since summer. Not a pleasant climb in my books but people seem to think its a classic (people still like to take 8 for it......). And then ran a couple laps on Sloper Dan Milosevic V5 and Boogie Knights V7. Housemate down climbed Sloper Dan Low (going up it gets V7... Down climb grades??) and I tried to down climb Boogie Knights, that's hard....
W: Rest. Skin...
T: Rest. Skin..
F: Rest. Skin.
S: Nowra DWS. Heat wave, usually low 20s, now mid 30s. Drove down in middle of day so arvo session. Full sun, bad idea. Wasn't even going to have a go on project but thought why not. Cruised into crux, slipping on tiny crimps from sweat and came off the usual move. Even in the heat, it was pretty much my best attempt so far. So annoyed but so so so happy to be back on the route. Great to be back over water, all other problems/routes/moves so much easier now after winter.... So fun. Love it.
S: Nowra DWS. Low 20s, overcast, early start. A lot colder. Quick warm up on easy stuff then 3 good burns. So much stronger and more controlled, now chalking up on the crux where I'd be catching crimp on the way down previously. Closest attempt of all time, literal millimeters away. Worked out what I need to train though. So not a total waste. Got hot, laid in sun on beach, then spa later. Good day. Bank holiday weekend so headed back to Syd on Monday.

[andy popp]

M - nowt
T - Normally board night but after last weeks weird elbow tweak, which I could still despite a week's rest, I wasn't sure I'd be doing anything. Decided to try repeaters on the fingerboard while the others bouldered and had my best session since starting autumn training, more sets in better form, no pain.
W - nowt (well, very full on work)
T - ditto
F - very short window for an early session on the Harmers project. Beautiful morning but I discovered it comes into the sun much earlier at this time of year (about 9) and went instantly hot just as I was beginning to feel warmed up. No progress, but no elbow pain
S -
S - went to Harmers but felt jaded and barely tried. Cleaned a project that is probably too hard for me. Moped up to Helsby hill top but 11 problems (V1 - V3 range, including a nice V2 I'd not done before, rare for me to do new problem in Cheshire) felt happy. Just nice to move around on rock, take in the view, not worry about anything.

So, basically, though the week before had been frustrating, it doesn't seem as though I've really done anything much in the way of damage, which is a relief.

[SA Chris]

S: Nowra DWS. Heat wave, usually low 20s, now mid 30s. ........ Great to be back over water, all other problems/routes/moves so much easier now after winter.... So fun. Love it.
S: ....... Got hot, laid in sun on beach, then spa later. Good day.

Sounds like a fucking great time. My DWS project never dried out this summer

[tk421a]

A really light week due to work / social commitments

Tuesday: Boulder session at Vauxwall - Did a ~V7 problem, second session, flashed / few tries a few new sets ~v5
Every other day.... nothing

[a dense loner]

Sloper Dan Milosovic, what a good problem name!

[the_dom]

Interesting.  I actually tweaked my fb-ing to fit in with doing the 5/3/1 weights as well, but I did it slightly different.  I did one day of minimum edge depth hangs (6mm edge), and one day of max added weight on an 18mm edge.  I assumed 1 rep = 3sec.  Then I followed the same protocol as the 5-3-1 for % of max. 

I was surprised at how effective it was.  I wasn't aiming at finger improvement, just hoping to keep them reasonable while doing the other weight stuff.  Just had a moonboard session last night and was pleasantly surprised by both my fingers and my body tension.  Power still felt a bit off, but was definitely one of my best sessions on the board, managing 3 new problems 7B+, and 2 7C's in a session.  Typically 7B and up will take me a bit more work on the moonboard.

To be fair, this is the first time I've followed (and stuck with) a structured fingerboarding programme, so perhaps my gains are purely from a low base..

Last point on this - I just did a strength benchmark after taking nearly a week off. My B3 max hang (weakest) has gone up 66%, my F3 up nearly 40% and my pinch strength has gone up nearly 25%. I didn't test my M2 because I was quite tired from the other tests, but the gains are significant in my opinion.

[Muenchener]

Sounds great. One of the best days out I ever had was a late start, up Idwal slabs, continuation wall, Cneifon arete, Chasm route on Glyder fach, down Bristly ridge then over Tryfan as the sunset. I was only climbing about E2 at the time, had a team of VS climbers in tow and it was a revelation to cover so much ground in an afternoon when we usually spent all day over a few S pitches. Mega.

Can lead to underestimating things though. Having once soloed a route on the Idwal Slabs in four minutes, I informed my mate not to worry, we'd do Central Buttress on Benn Eighe in the rain comfortably in under an hour.

This turned out not to be the case. Oops.

[Sasquatch]

Last point on this - I just did a strength benchmark after taking nearly a week off. My B3 max hang (weakest) has gone up 66%, my F3 up nearly 40% and my pinch strength has gone up nearly 25%. I didn't test my M2 because I was quite tired from the other tests, but the gains are significant in my opinion.

How are you measuring the %?  % of added weight, or % of total hanging weight?

[the_dom]

Last point on this - I just did a strength benchmark after taking nearly a week off. My B3 max hang (weakest) has gone up 66%, my F3 up nearly 40% and my pinch strength has gone up nearly 25%. I didn't test my M2 because I was quite tired from the other tests, but the gains are significant in my opinion.

How are you measuring the %?  % of added weight, or % of total hanging weight?

% of adde weight. The alternative would be fantastic but I think that would take more than 6 weeks, especially given what I weigh.

[Sasquatch]

OK, that makes sense.  I posted it up a while back in the eva lopez thread, but I found about 5-10% gains on total hanging strength after 4 weeks doing her program, which actually matches up with her findings.  This was consistent over 4 cycles, then ended up with having to tendon recovery after pulley injuries, so now i'm aiming at 2-4% gains and to maintain it for longer injury free.