UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: Will Hunt on December 30, 2012, 07:43:42 pm
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The previous lists:
Aims for 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8416)
Aims for 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10711)
Aims for 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13192)
Aims for 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16685)
Aims for 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19228)
Let's be having them:
Bouldering:
Consolidate at 7b
Do a 7b+
Maybe do a 7c?!
Trad:
At least attempt to do some E3s and E4s.
If not that then at least feel like I'm reaching my potential!
Get out more
Fiddle:
Go to the session more
Play Cooley's Reel at the session without falling off the back
Life:
Buy house
More reading, less TV
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get rid of tendonitis and nerve pain and get a 7c!! :weakbench:
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Start bouldering again, having done pretty much nothing in 2012. Start and see through to the end the insanity workout in January. Keep off the booze for all of January and generally keep it in control for the rest of my life. Get my business established and sort my finances out. Get at least one decent holiday booked and also make it to Font for the first time (could be one and the same!) Grow my hair again and stop looking like a thug. Finish the remaining jobs on the house. Get established doing regular DJ sets in and around Keswick. All in all, should be easy....... :-\
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Font 7C blocs
8b redpoint
8a onsight
Go to bed early every night
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Font 7C blocs
8b redpoint
8a onsight
Go to bed early every night
You given up on bitches? (Hence the early nights!)
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I vaguely recall an acronym that reminds you how to set useful goals, SMART or something. The first two are Specific and Measurable, but I forget the rest. =)
Anyway...here's mine:
- Stay injury free.
- Run 3 times a week
- Get back to and maintain fighting weight of 165lbs by 1st March.
- Climb 2 7A+ from my ticklist by June
- Climb 4 7A from my ticklist by June
- Climb in at least 2 new places (likely: Mammoth alpine bouldering areas, new(er) Tahoe bouldering areas like Sugar Pine).
- Visit UK / family and friends in N Wales and get some climbing in there during the Summer.
- placeholder item for whatever I forgot
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Smart- simple manageable attainable realistic within a Time limit.
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[/quote]
You given up on bitches? (Hence the early nights!)
[/quote]
Yeah - goals should be attainable! Snakes with tits anyway, like you always say.
Might work towards a restraining order or something/work on expanding my Katy W shrine
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Sport Climb F8b+ (Mecca most likely).
Boulder V12 (On limestone or trip abroad in Summer).
Meet one of these goals whilst still 19 .
Start doing structured training and avoid injury/illness.
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Hopefully by writing them down I may try a bit harder to achieve them, need to pull my finger and stop bumbling!
...Plus I love writing lists
Boulder 7c (that's undisputed/uncontroversial...)
Boulder 7c+
Yorkshireman @ Kyloe In
Awooga @ Simonside
County Ethics @ Back Bowden
Trip to Switzerland
Trip to North Wales
Trip to Torridion
Train consistently for more than 2 weeks :goodidea:
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1. Wales: organise successful München DAV Wales Trip. Now apparently a DAV / Karabiner MC / Fell & Rock combined meet, so the hut booking secretary informs me. The more the merrier. Climb E2 (Strand / Left Wall / Daisy / Dervish)
2. Frankenjura: as regularly as possible. More than this year's two visits. Primary obstacle here is Alps-obsessed partners.
3. Dolomites(*): two or more big alpine rock routes
(* or Kaisergebirge, Oberreintal etc. etc. Dolomites just happens to be my favourite of the alpine rock areas I've visited so far)
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I don't have many specific aims apart from a new route on the Orme (should go if there's enough dry weather).
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The same as last year with two minor teaks.
1. Finish my Red Wall Link Up Project
2. Boulder 7c. I think the Red Wall project will be this grade, so that is excluded. It'd be nice to do a 7C that doesn't instantly get downgraded too.
3. Reacquaint myself with Silverdale after a year of not visiting, plus Not Bad Dave/ Vitruvian Man/ Deal in Pain/ Aeon (or various other things I've tried and never ticked.
4. Build a woody, and more crucially, use it
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists
6. Run another marathon or two
7. Go to Font
8. Do at least twenty new Wainwrights
9. 7b in Font
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100
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1. Do the Knock, Nosferatu, No More Excuses and Tracka'thacat (dont deck on wings)
1a. Boulder 7b - Monochrome, My Apple, PowerHumps
2. 7c sport RP - Obsene Gesture/Toilet, New Dawn, Let the tripe increase etc
3. Onsight a mega 7a/+ home or abroad
4. Trad E3/4 - Memory Lane, Adjudicator Wall, Flaky Wall, Pembroke
5. Get to Pembroke and Catalunya
6. Get out of flat into house
7. Develop girlfriend holiday into DWS trip to Mallorca (wheels in motion)
8. Move out of photograhic punterdom and make longer/better videos throughout year
9. If it rains for another month scrap all the above and leave the sinking kingdom
:beer2: Happy New Year UKB
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1. complete my 12 week training plan without getting horribly injured or slacking off.
2. Climb Louis Armstrong.
3. Climb Red Baron at Shipley. (Standup)
4. Double body weight deadlift.
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Actually be a climber.
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Actually be a climber.
The weathers not helped for the last 6 months!
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Trad
Solid E2
Some E3
Sport
Lead 7b
solid 6c onsight
Bouldering
7A
Specific stuff:
Top out the cheif
The grand Wall - Squamish by best possible style
Pebble Wall
Flying arête
Crucific traverse and low
Climb at gogarth
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do some more 8A's (that are more than just one move)
Some 8A+ maybe 8B (we'll see)
Sport 8b (if I bother to do any)
Trad..... hell no
Guess thats about it no massively specifics
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Snakes with tits anyway
As charming as ever.
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Arrive in Font in Feb uninjured...
Get down below 14 stone and remain under 14 stone...
Boulder on grit more...
Get local projects done before Andy Popp ;)
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Best get on this bandwagon while it's rolling:
8a - woulda, shoulda, coulda got Call of Nature if weather and partners hadn't been so fickle this year. Be looking to get it done early and move on to Chimes, Powerplant, Roof Warrior, Raindogs, Statement depending what dries and how many away-days I can wangle.
more E4s, ultimately Flaky Wall & Resurrection
Another 7C, stop just talking about it and give Brad Pit a good go. Revisit Tetris
try to be strong and fit (relatively) rather than just one or the other
couple (or more) of Wales trips
boulder somewhere in Yorkshire other than the cliff (I know, I know, strike me down)
clear the garage and build my board at last
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Mine are really a repeat of last year's...
Onsight E4 consistently. Hardly got on any last year, and chose bad ones when I did. This also involves rocking up to the crag with routes in mind and being motivated to go for it.
Onsight a couple of proper E5s.
Get on a Peak 8a that I'm motivated to do. E.g. Unleashing.
Flash 7b.
3 Font 7a+ and 1 7B.
Use fingerboard at least twice a week over the winter.
Money and time dependent it would be good to get some big routes done in Yosemite/Dolomites/Verdon or similar, at the expense of the other goals, but we'll see!
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Consolidate at 7C. Snatch and Great White should help this, I just need to hold onto jugs....
Get my first 7C+ and do more of the grade (Rock Atrocity wobbly block, lou ferrino I'm most keen for) Need suggestions for good bloc style 7C+'s in Wales and ze peak.
Trad.... hhmm... Nah.
Do more highballing! Art nouveau, Tierdrop, Narcissus, Chip Shop Brawl, Shine On (With snow)
Sport.... hhmmm.... maybe, do something respectable at a crag I like or a route I actually enjoy or even just try to redpoint something.
Big aim: Font 8A.... Joker, Diesel Power, Pools of Bethasda (8A+ but looks amazing), Careless Torque ::)
Actually do some training to complete the last aim.
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Get my first 7C+ and do more of the grade (Rock Atrocity wobbly block, lou ferrino I'm most keen for) Need suggestions for good bloc style 7C+'s in ze peak.
If it were me I'd be looking at Western Eyes, Low Rider, Golden Egg or River of Life
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Cheers, forgot about all of them! Keen for Western and River of Life, although they all look very hard (Low rider in particular!)
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they all look very hard
They wouldn't be 7C+ if they weren't ;)
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:tumble:
scrap that aim ;)
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Trad:
At least attempt to do some E3s and E4s.
If not that then at least feel like I'm reaching my potential! - You won't be at your potential even when climbing E3's and 4's! Get Grand Illusion and the big three done at least!
More reading, less TV - Can thoroughly recommend David Millar's book 'Racing through the dark' if you've not read it already.
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Re-establish regular climbing and training - move somewhere/ meet people that makes this possible.
Sport
Climb more 7c sport routes, and a 7c+. Get some southern projects. Anyone have anything to recommend at Portland/Swanage?
Go to Ceuse - Finish off Vagabond. Try Les Collonetes and Priviledge du Serpent.
Beat last years '7's' - 18
Trad
Get back up to E4 onsights again.
and Wall of the Worlds/ any other cool looking E5.
Beat last years E-points - 78
Climb Freeborn Man
Sub 18minute 5k
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get the board back out of calums garage and build it in the cellar.
Then train like a demon and lose a load of weight and become a beast.
Also climb in the 7's again
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1) Put up a new multi pitch route somewhere cool. Montrebei perhaps?
2) Redpoint a 45m+ continuous vertical 8b (in real grades™)
3) Redpoint a 8b+/c strength endurance route.
4) Visit some of the great areas I have not been to yet. Verdon or Chamonix or Rätikon.
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after watching the recent video of Caprez, Rätikon has climbed ever higher on the 'list'.
2013:
1) Buy/borrow/steal massive rack
2) 6 month trip
3) Find job, preferably one I enjoy, close to home with a sympathetic (to climbing) boss.
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Rethink after epic failures on all of 2012's goals...
2013:
1. Recover from current injuries (dodgy neck, torn pulley).
2. Not get any more injuries.
3. Trad - do some. I live in Devon and have easy access to Cornwall, Somerset, Dorset etc, how hard can this be? Go to Pembroke & Swanage.
4. Sport - Stop repeating Thread Flintstone ad infinitum & do at least a couple of 7s that are new to me. Only did one this year and that was softer than a soft thing that's been squashed by Mr Softy.
5. DWS - do more than the one afternoon we did this year.
6. make use of CC membership & use the huts.
7. Take more photos.
8. 1.5 BW deadlift (without putting my back out again). So ~112kg. At which point I can justify some grown up olympic weights...
No specific route goals as that invariably means I won't even get on them but vague aspirations locally: Call to Arms, the Lynch, Threadbare, Rainbow Bridge, White Rhino Tea, White Life.
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goals:
-finish off a bunch of stuff i should have done this year (v crimps, transformer lh, spam, severus snape, sabotage, astro nave- optionally)
-consistently 7C in a session
-8A without a doubt attempt some harder stuff, 8A+, 8B...
-keep with the board
-get to ratho every so often and get better at routes (better not stronger)
-stretch a lot more and stay as injury free as possible)
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The File
Gigglin' Crack
Separate Reality
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Pfalz.
Berdorf.
Lewis.
Climb some challenging routes at Glen Nevis, Creag Dubh, and Ullapool area.
Keep active in general.
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Didn't manage much of last year's list, except for number 1 so same again :-
1. Go climbing somewhere other than Kilnsey.
2. Redpoint F8a again (not sure if this is incompatible with the first one).
3. Onsight F7b+ in the UK.
4. Onsight a few more Euro F7cs.
5. More trad trips to the Lakes/Wales/South West/Scotland.
6. Onsight E6 (been climbing E5 for 10+ years, so at least trying one would be a good start).
7. Boulder 7C on the grit.
and a few running ones ...
8. sub 18 minute 5k
9. sub 38:30 for 10k
10. sub 1:28:00 half marathon
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eatswood Traverse
Lady Big Claque
Killerweed
Austrian Oak
Anger Management
Do the moves on Mecca
Re-bolt some Peak routes starting with Tin Of
Onsight a 7c
10,000 8a nu points
2 new routes I've got my eye on
One arm an edge
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Sorry about last year, my bad but really, it's time to stop whingeing and get over it.
Jan/Feb - produce some cold, crisp days perfect for the grit
Spring - lots of long dry spells to dry the limestone nicely
Summer - stable temps so the Tor (and cornice, rubicon, Malham, Kilnsey etc) isn't condensed to fuck every morning combined with some pleasant breezy days for grit routers to maybe explore the Moors with their new guides
Autumn - long and lingering with the limestone season extending into a cold but not freezing November to ensure good nick for maximum sendage potential
Nov/Dec - some nice cold snaps for early grit season motivation
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These are supposed to be realistic aims!
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Get things finished!
Complete Orme project - just need to get Christmas over indulgence out of the way.
Hit Switzerland well, return and continue.
Carry on with other projects, and finish them.
Basically, get better at being better and stop being fat.
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After the personal train wreck of 2012..... (last time I had rock boots on was April)
Start climbing again (tomorrow)
Get back into the 7's on routes and boulders
Visit lots of new places now I'm in the South (Portland, Devon, Cornwall, Pembroke)
Spain in Feb, Kalymnos in May, somewhere else in the Autumnn
Swap the Audi for a camper van
Go surfing in Devon and Cornwall
Play my guitar more
Improve my handwriting and write more
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After succeeding in the last year to avoid injury and climb well I feel that I have put myself in a strong position for the coming year.
Once the initial post-christmas languidness and obesity have worn off, my aims are:
Triple 8 project - 8a, 8A and E8
In order to achieve this I aim to succeed in these goals:
Lose the christmas weight and then continue till I hit ~70kg
Force myself to earn some stamina points by tying onto a rope and doing some of those route things.
Go to Ceuse and make use of my new jug hauling ability to scrape my way up a problem or two.
Do some DWS as I have still to learn how it feels to be shitting myself above a swirling void of darkness.
Boulder somewhere in America - ideally Hueco or Joes Valley. This will be a year end reward for being a good boy and training hard.
Actually make a few videos with my camera, maybe even one/a series charting this progress.
Consider what I want to do with my life? :shrug:
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Play my guitar more
Oh yeah, I forgot - buy a banjo and learn how to play Old MacDonald...
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Go to Ceuse - Finish off Vagabond. .... Privilege du Serpent.
Do you want any tips for these 2?
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Bouldering
Need to step it up on the grit, 7C+ this year, hopefully 3, candidates include; low rider, western eyes, river of life and salle goose (7C?)
Finish Ben's Roof ( Shouldn't take long ) and climb some more 7C+'s and an 8A.
Do County Ethics, looks sick
Sport Climbing
Consolidate at 8a with some peak ones and maybe some Kilnsey stuff.
Do 8a+ (probably caviar)
Trad
Flash E6 (Nosferatu), just get more confident placing gear and take a decent fall!
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My ridiculously optimistic goals for 2013 are:
Become unfingjured.
Bat Route at Malham.
San Simeon in Pembroke, DWS.
Climb some big walls in Greenland.
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- Onsight proper E5 and then do it regularly
- Push myself enough to potentially take proper safe falls on trad
- Infinite Gravity
- Do more of and consolidate 7c+/8a, I have a list of classic routes
- Regularly climb at places other than Portland/Swanage (aim for once a month), and something other than Limestone (aim for 4 trips away)
- Keep injuries to a minimum and rehab properly
- Train consistently
Sport
Climb more 7c sport routes, and a 7c+. Get some southern projects. Anyone have anything to recommend at Portland/Swanage?
Trad
Get back up to E4 onsights again.
and Wall of the Worlds/ any other cool looking E5.
This thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18874.0.html) has some good recommendations for sport, and give me a shout if you're looking for trad partners.
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My 2012 was pretty shite in terms of bulk climbing. 48 logged climbs.. :chair: I did however manage to climb my hardest boulder and spend a month and a bit in the Alps. So more of that please and over a hundred climbs this time.
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Enjoy my job. Get better at it. Sort my career out.
Study hard. Learn lots. Get half decent grades.
Get stomach sorted so I can
run an ultra
run a long fell race
do the kinder dozen
Lose weight (once stomach is sorted) so I can
climb 7
Go to another country.
Try to learn something about writing.
:coffee:
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Sorry about last year, my bad but really, it's time to stop whingeing and get over it
Jan/Feb - produce some cold, crisp days perfect for the grit
Spring - lots of long dry spells to dry the limestone nicely
Summer - stable temps so the Tor (and cornice, rubicon, Malham, Kilnsey etc) isn't condensed to fuck every morning combined with some pleasant breezy days for grit routers to maybe explore the Moors with their new guides
Autumn - long and lingering with the limestone season extending into a cold but not freezing November to ensure good nick for maximum sendage potential
Nov/Dec - some nice cold snaps for early grit season motivation
'The Weather' 's a Yorkshireman/woman/entity :P
Targets for 2013
immediate:
Climb my mixed proj on Clogwyn Du
As many new mixed routes in N.Wales as conditions, ability and time allow
Onsight Cracking Up
Climb Anubis
Finish the N.Wales lime guidebook and app
Keep on developing sick dry-tooling routes in the Crafnant mines and quarries
Fit some bouldering in when I can. if winter conditions turn out to be rubbish put effort into a good font 8a
by mid-year:
Sport trip anywhere, ideally new routing Taghia
First F8b
Keep tradding the multitude of classics in N.Wales and try to fit in some trips
My E7/8 proj
by late-year:
Onsight E7
Headpoint an E9 that has protection and hard climbing
Or, move to Canada in Summer never to return.
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Sorry about last year, my bad but really, it's time to stop whingeing and get over it
Jan/Feb - produce some cold, crisp days perfect for the grit
Spring - lots of long dry spells to dry the limestone nicely
Summer - stable temps so the Tor (and cornice, rubicon, Malham, Kilnsey etc) isn't condensed to fuck every morning combined with some pleasant breezy days for grit routers to maybe explore the Moors with their new guides
Autumn - long and lingering with the limestone season extending into a cold but not freezing November to ensure good nick for maximum sendage potential
Nov/Dec - some nice cold snaps for early grit season motivation
'The Weather' 's a Yorkshireman/woman/entity :P
Yes, sorry that post was rather Pennine-centric but it does seem like the centre of the universe sometimes with so many people banging on and on about friction, condensation, seepage, run-off, the list seems never ending, it get's quite confusing.
I have good intentions for North Wales of course but it is rather a difficult area for me as you probably know, at least you always have the coast and the Cave to fall back on when I stuff things up in the mountains.
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Go to Ceuse - Finish off Vagabond. .... Privilege du Serpent.
Do you want any tips for these 2?
Be fit?
Vagabond is all but in the bag really, made some silly red pointing mistakes that i'll be sure not to repeat. And got very ill in my last week there so never got to finish it off.
But not been on privilege so any beta is welcome!!
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Mine, nothing too out-there...
1) Get buff (Continue and finish Insanity)
2) Boulder 6c indoor, 6b on grit.
3) Joe's arete. Seriously, it's beginning to piss me off now.
4) Trip to Font
5) Continue with band on to global stardom. Or at least gig outside London.
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This thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18874.0.html) has some good recommendations for sport, and give me a shout if you're looking for trad partners.
Cheers! I will be sure to get in touch, are you London based?
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Training 8 hours sleep per night- it's become clear to me that this (or lack of it) is the major factor in how well I climb.
Weekly fingerboard use- if I apply myself to training my fingers as much as I applied myself to my core last year I can see good results I reckon.
Keeping a training diary and stretching every day were targets from last year that I maintained 'til October- this year I want to keep them going right the way through.
Trad E2. Should surely be a matter of simply tying in and climbing one. So in that case, E3 as well.
Climb at at least one new trad area. Gogarth would be good.
Sport 7b. Something Stupid at Malham seems a good bet- I'd love to do Obsession as well, considering crimping is my biggest weakness this might be optimistic, but aim high etc.
Venue-wise I'd like to go to Kilnsey, Portland and Chee Dale- all places I'm ashamed to admit I've never climbed.
Bouldering 7B might be optimistic but fuck it.
I'm determined to go back to the US- I met people who are up for climbing with me over there in many places, enough to go for months. Whether I'll manage that I don't know but even another two weeks in the Red would be ace.
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Bat Route at Malham.
that should be easy enough - just wait for a dry day and get in touch with me - afterall, I am your unofficial lucky belayer!
My own goals:
- Main overarching aim is to continue my incremental rise through the Yorkshire sport graded list.
- Specifically, as a minimum, tick off a few of the routes I have already worked on: Tremelo, Comedy, Dominatrix, Herbie, Illywacker (Giggleswick), Vorsprung Durch Technik (Yew Cogur).
- Try to visit / re-visit some non-Yorkshire venues: go back to Chapel, climb at Chee and Raven Torr, maybe visit some of the LPT / A55 venues.
- Through the above, get climbing well enough that I can feel last year's pootling about on Raindogs might, one distant day, have some pay-off - that I was doing more than just keeping myself occupied on wet days.
- Get some bouldering strength back - re-climb the f7b+/c end of my grit bouldering tick list. Get some proper use out of my moorland grit bouldering guide.
- Do some trad... any trad...... preferably start trying to lead some of the classic E3s I have been allowing myself to get psyched out of.
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1. The project. Facilitated by the means stated below (to be religiously adhered to)
i) A training plan that incorporates running to stay lean
ii) Continue to eat as healthy and disciplined as I have done for the past month and a half.
iii) Stretch three times a week.
2. Make the most of my time until August in Leeds to exploit prime grit days and tick some classics.
3. Continue to tick through the classic novel collection on the shelf.
3.Work out what I'm going to do with respect to Part II of education. Something might have to give (to be written about).
4. The year we finally get the greyhound.
5. PASS THAT BASTARD DRIVING TEST AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! / Don't be a pussy.
6. Trip to the US with m'lady and get some classic Yosemite bouldering ticks.
Bests to all.
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learn how to rescue cats from trees and fight fires.
get strong again without all the supplements
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Go to Ceuse - Finish off Vagabond. Try Les Collonetes and Priviledge du Serpent.
Been to Ceuse a fair bit and if you're after 8a then there are better ones than Les Collonetes - the lower boulder is shit, but its even shitter starting from the 3rd bolt for the 7c+ tick. Carte Blanche is ace, Bourinator is nice and soft if you're into that kind of thing. I thought the best 7c+ at Ceuse was either Magicien de RIGA over at the right hand end, or Mirage at Cascade. Priviledge is a good one for your first though...
Having said that, Collonetes is a nice one to try in the middle of the day when everything else is in the sun.
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I immediately regret writing this as normally my plans are massively over ambitious. In an attempt to manage my expectations I've kept it as vague as possible:
i. Stop wasting my time on anything other than inspiring problems
ii. Climb more stuff outside the peak
iii. Reiver (see aims i & ii.)
iv. Font 7C+ (must meet criteria of aim no. i)
v. Finish my on - off 4 year affair with Arch Enemies (ideally this would be completed tops off for power style in front of a bunch of hot female tourists who all want to sleep with me afterwards)
vi. Be less shallow (see aim no. v)
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Many hot female tourists hanging out in dovedale?
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Many hot female tourists hanging out in dovedale?
More than at Raven Tor ;)
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you think they went to Raven's Tor by mistake? sorry
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Well I've never publicly announced my goals before but it will be interesting which goals (if any) I manage to complete by this time next year!
1. CREATE A TRAINING PLAN!
2. Start an antagonistic exercise routine and complete 3-4 times a week.
3. After 2 weeks of antagonistics, start addressing poor core/finger strength (pinches/half-crimp first), use training board more often.
4. Improve Diet, initially snacks and then... everything.
5. Climb majority of F7's / 8a's in Cheddar/Wye area (Starting with Academic and Wrist Business whilst bouldering strength is decent).
6. Boulder some 7C's, most likely in the Bradford area as I have to do a compulsory 2-3 day trip up to Bradford every month (for Degree). Any recommendations welcome! Tetris on Grit and Rock Atrocity on Limestone. There is a 7C+ 10 minutes drive from work so give that a try long term.
Oh yeh, finish my bloody degree, decide if I want to stick at teaching or not (holidays - good, being very organised - annoying).
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1.Pebble Wall
2. A trip to Sypeland because it looks good in the new guide.
that's it.
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Stop eating loads of shit.
Try to do some more sport routes.
Do the Ace! :wall:
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Big numbers:
9a
8b onsight/flash
Specifics:
Abyss
Pilgrimage
Evolution
Kaabah
True North
Volume:
10 8c (all time)
12 8b+ (all time)
20 8b (all time)
50 8s onsight/flash (all time)
5 8a+ or harder onsights (all time)
8A+ that's actually a boulder
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I just saw Abarro 81 wuss out on a 7a+ in font today. Do we really want him as the future of British sport climbing?
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Forgot his kneepad did he?
I prefer willackers goals out of the two posts above.
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Forgot his kneepad did he?
I wish
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8212/8338930545_776e54100a.jpg)
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4. The year we finally get the greyhound.
You can have mine. He's a fucking idiot.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8363/8338036536_c7f7c97592.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87719719@N03/8338036536/)
SAM_0381 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87719719@N03/8338036536/#) by metal arms (http://www.flickr.com/people/87719719@N03/), on Flickr
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Forgot his kneepad did he?
I wish
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8212/8338930545_776e54100a.jpg)
Climb blox are surely not going to sell anything if their trousers make your arse look that big
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are you London based?
No, Southampton.
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Targets:
1. Finish off Zoo York
2. Try Jason's Roof
3. Do more Bloc 8A's
4. Try some 8A+'s
5. Get Stronger fingers!!
6. Attempt some sport climbing
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Aims this year:
1. Climb Indian Summer at Kilnsey. This will be the 3rd season of trying. I got close last year (had my fingers in the last slot) but then even this route got wet towards the back end of summer.
2. Spend some sessions working Bat Route at Malham.
3. Fix my shoulder.
4. Get down to a good fighting weight for spring (62-64kg).
Other loose goals include: Climbing a good hardish boulder problem (bloc), climb something good on the south coast (Infinite Gravity, Cider Soak or Brean Topping), climb in the Outer Hebrides, climb a bigish Euro wall (Dolomites or Ratikon).
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You can have mine. He's a fucking idiot.
Ha! What happened to him! Me ma's lurcher got ran over for the second time early last year and rebroke the same leg she broke last time...
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1. Get loads of milage in on ice
2. Climb some mental looking mixed stuff
3. Dont get totally weak
4. Get the local 8A, properly consolidate at 7B and bag some 7C
5. Go to India
6. Climb some desert towers and get scared
7. Learn to Ski
8. Learn how to climb cracks
9. Dont waste time not doing cool shit
10. Dont get eaten by a bear or shot
11. climb some hard trad
12. Go DWS somewhere warm
13. Maybe get a proper job at the end
14. Do some alpine stuff
15. Be around for will so he doesnt feel lonely
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4. The year we finally get the greyhound.
You can have mine. He's a fucking idiot.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8363/8338036536_c7f7c97592.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87719719@N03/8338036536/)
SAM_0381 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/87719719@N03/8338036536/#) by metal arms (http://www.flickr.com/people/87719719@N03/), on Flickr
:off:
Silly pooch! What's he done?
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1. Try to work away a bit less.
2. Get Climbing again
3. Lose a stone
4. Get a decent time in the Salford and great North swim.
5. Learn to love the board again.
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3. Lose a stone
4. Get a decent time in the Salford and great North swim.
Fancy joining in for the Rivington 26 miler?
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You can have mine. He's a fucking idiot.
Ha! What happened to him! Me ma's lurcher got ran over for the second time early last year and rebroke the same leg she broke last time...
Escaped from Kate's folks garden. Found a Muntjack(?) Deer. Chased it up and down the road like a mad thing and fell over on a gravelly drive. Lost two claws and lots of skin. And then I lost all my money at the vets.
Apologies for the :offtopic:, I'll post some aims now.
2012 was not a vintage climbing year (except Squamish), so I will make some public goals for a bit of motivation.
1. 10 7a's on the bolts.
2. Klondike, Pocket City and Solid Gold at Pen Trwyn.
3. The Big Groove and Rat Race on Main Cliff.
4. Red Wall on Red Wall.
5. Something easy at the easy end of North Stack Wall.
6. Go to Pembroke at least once (no trips this year) and do another route in the leap. (Maybe Bloody Sunday if I have a cup of MTFU).
7. Go to Cornwall (Bosigran and Sharpnose are pre-requisites).
8. Climb in the Pass a bit more.
9. Get on Laurin or Flaky Wall at High Tor.
10.Something on Craig Arthur. Maybe Manikins of Horror.
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You can have mine. He's a fucking idiot.
Ha! What happened to him! Me ma's lurcher got ran over for the second time early last year and rebroke the same leg she broke last time...
Escaped from Kate's folks garden. Found a Muntjack(?) Deer. Chased it up and down the road like a mad thing and fell over on a gravelly drive. Lost two claws and lots of skin. And then I lost all my money at the vets.
Apologies for the :offtopic:, I'll post some aims now.
2012 was not a vintage climbing year (except Squamish), so I will make some public goals for a bit of motivation.
1. 10 7a's on the bolts.
2. Klondike, Pocket City and Solid Gold at Pen Trwyn.
3. The Big Groove and Rat Race on Main Cliff.
4. Red Wall on Red Wall.
5. Something easy at the easy end of North Stack Wall.
6. Go to Pembroke at least once (no trips this year) and do another route in the leap. (Maybe Bloody Sunday if I have a cup of MTFU).
7. Go to Cornwall (Bosigran and Sharpnose are pre-requisites).
8. Climb in the Pass a bit more.
9. Get on Laurin or Flaky Wall at High Tor.
10.Something on Craig Arthur. Maybe Manikins of Horror.
ooh,naughty dog
my last lurcher shredded her knees falling on gravel chasing rabbits,also landed on a barb wire fence.she was a clever dog.my current dog is as dumb as feck.never seems to get hurt.her collar has gouges from barbs after running under fences too close.nearly fell off a 30 foot drop chasing squirrels last week.
topic
bench 160
deadlift 240
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Train really hard all year with minimal injury
Lou Ferrino
Enchantress
Start sitting on my arse in Parisella's and climb out (i.e. The Wire or Greenheart) (optimistic)
Sport 8a+/b
Infinite Gravity
Climb more on slate
Don't go big walling
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1. First visit to Dartmoor for a very long time booked for May. Just hoping for good weather. Then onto Dorset.
2. Transfer plastic gains into real climbing gains.
3. Climb outside more.
4. Finally move flat and actually have an internal wall to hang a fingerboard on. Oh, and some space to put stuff in too. And maybe even a doorway to put a pull-up bar in.
and mainly
5. Don't get too injured.
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1. Try and finish of Art of Self Destruction
2. Do the Wobbly Block Traverse at CyL
3. Last Temptation at Thorn Crag
4. Try Back Hand Roof at Woodwell, goal for last year and didn't get chance to get on. To wrapped up in Iron Man!
5. Get on Tourniquet
6. Get to more places outside south lakes; so trips to the pass, caley, the ben, glencoe and brimham
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Pray for a dry 2013
Strap my ball bag on and climb an E6 grit route this winter.
Continue to develope and train hard on my 45 and barrel.
Clip my way up an 8a in the summer.
Sail the 7c's
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Clip my way up an 8a in the summer.
Sail the 7c's
Got a boat ticket with your name on it yo!
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Metalarms I can't see your fella through my work filter unfortunately. Sounds a swine!
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3. Lose a stone
4. Get a decent time in the Salford and great North swim.
Fancy joining in for the Rivington 26 miler?
Possibly....
a. when is it
b. this depends entirely on whether I can even run as the knee ligament damage I did in September still gives me gyp sometimes and I've not even tried running on it yet...
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March 24th 2013 (http://www.ultratrail26.com/ultratrail26/rivington.html). 26 miles over rough ground and big hills. :great:
The Rivington night race (http://thenightrunner.com/night-runner/close-encounters.html) (10k) is on next weekend, should still be spaces. Good fun if the Delamere race is anything to go by.
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Right this year I'm going to get my shit together.
1 - Carried forward from 2012 - the sea arch traverse. If the planets align and we get a decent dry spell it will go.
2 - get sorted with new house
3 - get woody up in new house
4 - get bouldering fitness back on above mentioned woody
5 - get to wall once a weekish and get on some routes
6 - NYD I tipped the scales at 14 st 1.5, my heaviest yet. Aim to be back down to 13 st by the time clocks change.
7 - maybe take on a proper redpoint project for the first time since 2005. If 2 above pans out maybe get on this
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=198382 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=198382) as it will be on the doorstep.
8 - get on some of the 30 or so FAs I have earmarked for development
9 - get on some traddy stuff - esp potential new local crag and some west coast spots esp Ardnamurchan108 - yoga at least once every 2 weeks, preferrably weekly.
10 - surf more. Maybe get an inflatable SUP to cruise around coast (subject to 2 as well)
11 - ski / board more
12 - sort out shit at work either by fight or flight
13 - Maybe do Passportes if UKB massive are out again. I will definitely be in Les Gets at that time.
14 - Get decent desktop and get better at photo and video editing
a few more than the 2 last year!
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In addition to previous posts, the future of british sport "abarro 81" when challenged to down a bottle of Leffe Special declined because we didnt have a video camera rolling! these days i wonnt get out of bed until there's video evidence. I love climbing.
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Bouldering - to become solid at 7B+/C (if my elbows let me)
Sport - The Ripper. If Kilnsey ever dries that is...
Trad - :lol:
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Bouldering
Do 7b
Do 7c
Do a one-hand pull-up
Get immense Core-power
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1. Lou Ferrino
2. Over the Moon direct
3. Lord of the Flies
4. Lead arete project in the hills
5. Astroman
6. Nose in a day (well... single push)
7. Get fit as fuck now I'm off the tabs
8. Keep remembering that this is not a fucking rehearsal!
Psyched for 2013!
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- Get out Bouldering more!
- At least work a 7c
- Try some E2/3/4's
- Cycle to work more
- Do my first sprint triathlon
- Work less
- Train more/an actual set plan!!
- Visit 1 new venue a month
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- Have a good trip to Ceuse in July - drag myself up an 8a (hopefully Carte Blanche) and get some good 7's done (Berlin, Super Mickey, Lapinerie all in mind)
- Train PE properly and get route fit ahead of aforementioned trip
- Get out lots locally at weekends
- Make the effort to get out after work in the summer
- Get lots of mileage at 7b to 7c+
- Finish off Liquid Crystal once it's dry again (after falling off last move in October)
- Get down to Cornish granite at least a couple of times
- Get to Pembroke at least a few times and try harder
- Do some bouldering, would be nice to tick 7B
- Try and get rid off / avoid niggling finger injuries
Specific local routes I'd like to at least get on:
Lurking Sear (Wintours)
Academic (Avon)
Featherless Biped (Avon)
Arms Race (Avon)
Right-Hand Man (Cheddar)
Shock of the New (Cheddar)
Driller Killer (Cheddar)
Follow the Slick Red Road (Cheddar)
Bird of Paradise (Cheddar)
Manchmals (Cheddar)
House Burning Down (Cheddar)
Berlin (Dinas)
H1N1 (Dinas)
Empire (Ansteys)
Cider Soak (Ansteys)
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Lots of big maybes.
- Climb harder on grit, ie E9.
- Try and flash masters edge.
- 7C+ or maybe even 8A boulders.
- Climb 8a+ sport at home.
- Get fit and climb 8a sport abroad this spring/autumn.
- Go to the Mournes and try some of the underdevloped classics.
- Get to Northumberland and other UK areas I've never been to.
- Decide on Uni.
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7C+
Put Hunter's Roof to bed
Get published (or at least have papers accepted to be published)
Eat, drink and be merry whilst keeping weight down.
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1) Mend foot
2) OS some more E6s
3) climb E7
4) finish Yorkshire triple crown
5) redpoint 2 more 8bs
6) try something harder (sport)
7) get a haircut
8) watch the rest of the godfather movies
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Bouldering
5 x new Font 7as
Font 7b
Top 10 finish in one of the Leeds indoor bouldering leagues
Other
2 x gym sessions a week chucking kettlebells around
3 x meditation sessions a week
Do at least one 16kg Turkish Get Up, both sides
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1) Mend foot
Amen to that.
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Climbing:
Font 7c
30 new 7s (new to me, not new problems)
Tick the problems on The List
E5 (Optimistic)
7c (Doubtful)
Orion Face Direct
Running:
Sub 19 5k
Sub 40 10k
Sub 90 half
Party Trick:
One arm pull-up (both arms)
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Climbing:
Font 7c
7c (Doubtful)
Orion Face Direct
So you're strong enough for Font 7c, but think F7c is optimistic? :o Well bouldery 8bs are only about font 7c ish
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....and as for
E5 (Optimistic)
:slap:
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Font 7b/+ (that doesn't involve jumping).
Be able to tick 7a 'easily' including in Font if I get there this year.
Sport 7c and some volume in the 7's if the weather behaves.
Spend some weekends not in the Peak (weather dependent).
Get on/complete trad E2 (and harder...?) regularly, without stress, probably dependent again on weather and also if I end up away from the Peak a bit more.
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So you're strong enough for Font 7c, but think F7c is optimistic? :o Well bouldery 8bs are only about font 7c ish
Cheers Toby and Jon, isn’t it nice to have your hopes and dreams shot down and criticised by your peers! ;)
It's optimistic as I'm focusing on bouldering until March when, assuming everything goes well, I’ll become a dad - at which point climbing will go on the back burner for a while. When life returns to normality enough for me to actually get outside again I shall probably only be getting out for a couple of hours here and there so the chance of me getting out on a rope is pretty slim!
To be honest, Font 7c is pretty optimistic but the problems on my ticklist at the grade are lines that have always inspired me (and for most of my climbing “career” I’ve believed were out of my reach) so to tick them would be a pretty big deal. I could then move my focus more to routes!
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You got any ski trips up here planned?
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Maybe, as the wife can't ski she has banned me but a Scottish weekend is apparently allowed (on the basis that it mainly involves walking and climbing in drizzle for a sketchy descent of a partially filled gully) . No prospective dates yet but if you're keen, I'll drop you a pm if any plans start forming......
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Yeah give us a shout. Conditions are pish at the moment, but it hopefully won't be all season!
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So you're strong enough for Font 7c, but think F7c is optimistic? :o Well bouldery 8bs are only about font 7c ish
Cheers Toby and Jon, isn’t it nice to have your hopes and dreams shot down and criticised by your peers! ;)
It's optimistic as I'm focusing on bouldering until March when, assuming everything goes well, I’ll become a dad - at which point climbing will go on the back burner for a while. When life returns to normality enough for me to actually get outside again I shall probably only be getting out for a couple of hours here and there so the chance of me getting out on a rope is pretty slim!
To be honest, Font 7c is pretty optimistic but the problems on my ticklist at the grade are lines that have always inspired me (and for most of my climbing “career” I’ve believed were out of my reach) so to tick them would be a pretty big deal. I could then move my focus more to routes!
Thing is, given your bouldering ability (assumming 7B/+), those route goals should be doable in a day each - or a day full stop at the right crag! Bouldery 7c would probably take you only two or three goes, and a suitable E5 should be flashable surely.
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I'm not sure where you're based, but I could point you at good E5s which should be a pushover at your level and straightforward/none-scary enough to not require trad mileage before attempting.
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I'm not sure where you're based, but I could point you at good E5s which should be a pushover at your level and straightforward/none-scary enough to not require trad mileage before attempting.
The Galpinos lives in Manchester, (unless I am very out of date). Ditto - Nick I could give you any number of safe E5s you would absolutely walk up, with an ability to do Font 6c; let alone 7c! I was trying to be encouraging... but understand future time restrictions may inhibit achievement! ;) Same with F7c to be honest. Chiselling the Dragon for a start... crimpy font 7a (ish) to a monster rest, then a French 7a/7a+ to finish. Why Me in the dale about the same, except a bit easier (as far as i remember).
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1) Mend foot
Amen to that.
Cheers JS. Not doing too well on this goal so far. Despite subjective improvement and being able to cycle 30-35 miles at a time, and do F7c in baggy boots in spain without pain; it seems the bone has not united after more than 3 months. Put out does not begin to cover it.
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Same happened to me with a broken meta-tarsal. Took months to heal. Make sure you have enough blood flow to the foot as it's a poor area for blood flow anyway.
After it eventually healed I had a good winter training at the wall, some fun climbs on grit, and then the best spring trad climbing ever, HTH.
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I thought the best 7c+ at Ceuse was either Magicien de RIGA over at the right hand end, or Mirage at Cascade. Priviledge is a good one for your first though...
Think I got a bit stuck on it as I thought "Long 7c, will be 'easy' " and through lack of respect never sorted top section out as much as I should but La Chose in Berlin seemed to me to be 7c+ (currently 7c but was 7c+ previously) and utterly superb. Quite a few comments on 8a.nu that it's either hard or should be 7c+. Certainly much harder than Vagabond. Didn't get on Privilege so can't comment versus that.
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Think I got a bit stuck on it as I thought "Long 7c, will be 'easy' " and through lack of respect never sorted top section out as much as I should but La Chose in Berlin seemed to me to be 7c+ (currently 7c but was 7c+ previously) and utterly superb. Quite a few comments on 8a.nu that it's either hard or should be 7c+. Certainly much harder than Vagabond. Didn't get on Privilege so can't comment versus that.
Yeh i remember chatting to someone from north wales, (maybe you?) about La Chose. If it was you, did you get it in the end?
I didn't really look at much in Berlin apart from a brief go on Blocage, but i would like to climb something on that wall!
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This is mostly just a repost from last year. I meant to post my results in the 2012 thread, but since i failed, what does it matter.
- Do some new 8as or above (managed 5 last year)
- Do 1 8b (have my heart set on
Pierre Philosophale, gourmandise but I'll have to wait and see) - Find some dry rock
- Do a 1-arm flick on the small rungs
- Get Euro-thin
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Yeh i remember chatting to someone from north wales, (maybe you?) about La Chose. If it was you, did you get it in the end?
I didn't really look at much in Berlin apart from a brief go on Blocage, but i would like to climb something on that wall!
Could well have been me, I'm sure I was boring plenty of people with my struggles on it. My best effort was falling with left hand on the awkward hold just before jugs at the belay. Just didn't know what I was doing with my feet enough to hold that move. Quite intimidating up there too, it was my first time at Ceuse and I had some fairly respectable falls when trying La Chose.
I didn't do much else in the Berlin area but did manage Petite Illusion and St John's Pecos both of which are stunning. Very keen to finish La Chose next time and then do Blocage and Berlin.
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Feels a bit voyeuristic reading everyone else's and not adding my own so here they are:
Trad
- More than anything I'd like to be getting on more E5s and achieving an onsight success rate of somewhere between 60 and 70%.
- No particular routes I'm aiming for but Ride the Wild Surf, Soap on a Rope (DWS), Blue Peter (still haven't climbed on North Stack), The Minotaur, Just Another Day / Scorched Earth (I am in love with The Leap) and Get Some In are all on the radar. I MUST get to Cloggy too.
- I'd like to have 2 or 3 long weekend trips to Pembroke.
- If weather isn't better this year (it will be!) I will make much more of an effort to get to Gogarth and the Lleyn (though there's not loads I can throw myself at on the Lleyn).
Sport
- Tidy up unfinished business on Parasite, Stiff Upper Lip, Never Get Out of the Boat (utterly brilliant), Dark Half, Spong and Raisin Frumpsnoot (think this might be my third year trying this - few seem to rate it but it's incredible, fallen from last move twice a few months ago).
- Do 2 solid 7cs in a day.
- Onsight proper 7b+ in the UK.
- Have 3 or 4 long weekend Yorkshire trips (still not been to Malham - disgusting [me, not it] !)
- Get on a UK 8b and give it serious time, realistically this will be in Yorkshire.
- If planets, weather and skills were aligned and there was an 8b tick in the bag I'd love to do Supercool at Gordale, never been there but this totally inspires me.
Bouldering
- Do 8A but not in the Cave. Possibly Sway On as this is close, looks superb and you can work it on your own. Have heard it's not so easy though.
- Do 7C+ aka finish Lou Ferrino.
- Do Rockatrocity.
- Do 7B+ in a session.
- Flash proper 7A.
- Manage at least 1 winter weekend on grit between now and March.
- Manage at least 2 days at Porth Ysgo between now and March.
Good luck and big strength to all for 2013 plans. All we need is the weather :please: or I may have to reconsider where home is...
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Sport:
First 7b -
Butterfly Collector - Ruthin (Was on this at the weekend, hopefully get ticked this Sunday)
Walking With Barrance - Dinbren
Sunny Side Up Mix - Craig Arthur
Try something harder - possibly a 7b+ or 7c that looks inspiring.
On-sight a 7a - Few possibilities around maybe something at Pinfold or The Marsh Flower at Craig Arthur.
Bouldering:
More V6's and a first V7. Middle Undercut V7 at Hope Mnt.
Trip to Font in October - Get some good ticks and make a video
Trad:
Get some routes of any grade in. Don't trad climb enough. Headpoint something hard this year. Possibly E6/E7. . . Shoot To Thrill at Pinfold?
Fingerboard:
Carry on with Repeater workout and mix it up every 6 weeks.
Everything Else:
Finish bolting and climb my project.
Head to some new areas - Malham, Kilnsey, Chee Dale.
Climb more on the Orme.
Boulder as well as Sport in the summer instead of sacking off bouldering altogether like last year.
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1. Do at least one 8a+
2. Do some new 8as
3. Go to font
4. Spend more time in the lakes
5. Be able to jump and catch the small ring one handed on both sides
6. Get decent exam results
(Basically, get stronger and try not to get injured)
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Kick a goose in the scrot'
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Nice one, will be looking forward to hearing how that goes.
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Routes/Trad
Devistation Generation - Dumbuck
Unjustified - Malham
Nandralone - Cambusbaron
Requiem - Dumbarton
Bouldering
La Sabateur - Dumbarton
Sabotaged - Dumbarton
Born Lippy - Bowden
Working Class - Bowden
Lots of trips to North west Scotland
Finish off van conversion
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Routes/Trad
Requiem - Dumbarton
:popcorn:
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Routes/Trad
Requiem - Dumbarton
:popcorn:
Are you confusing this with Rhapsody perhaps....?
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Routes/Trad
Requiem - Dumbarton
:popcorn:
Are you confusing this with Rhapsody perhaps....?
No, there is still the prospect of some massive airtime on requiem as Mr Atkinson can no doubt testify. I'll quite possibly be bumbling about on some mid grade boulder problems underneath so will look forward to seeing Adam have a go on it. Not been onsighted yet I understand :whistle:
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How do you aim to approach Requiem Adam, ground-up or top rope inspection? I have always wanted to try this route although lack of proximity may make it a pipe dream!
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Routes/Trad
Requiem - Dumbarton
:popcorn:
Are you confusing this with Rhapsody perhaps....?
No, there is still the prospect of some massive airtime on requiem as Mr Atkinson can no doubt testify. I'll quite possibly be bumbling about on some mid grade boulder problems underneath so will look forward to seeing Adam have a go on it. Not been onsighted yet I understand :whistle:
You only get massive airtime if you use the wrong cam :whistle:
Not been on-sighted yet but much harder and more dangerous routes have. If it was in Wales, The Peak or The Lakes I reckon it definitely would have.
Good luck on it, don't top rope it either! ;)
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How do you aim to approach Requiem Adam, ground-up or top rope inspection? I have always wanted to try this route although lack of proximity may make it a pipe dream!
I won't be able to dedicate enough visits to warrant a true ground up attempt, so going to ab it and have a good old look. Try a few moves here and there. Then try it.
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At least have one shotty at the onsight!
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At least have one shotty at the onsight!
Blew the onsight onsighting the 7a approach route ;)
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D'oh!
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At least have one shotty at the onsight!
Blew the onsight onsighting the 7a approach route ;)
Incidentally Will, how did you get to the crack proper each time. Did you bother with the 7a every time? This always put me off trying the GU!
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The slab isn't part of Requiem.
It's piss once you get it wired though, and it's a classic.
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The slab isn't part of Requiem.
It's piss once you get it wired though, and it's a classic.
So how did you get to Requiem each time? I can't picture a scramble up?
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Just used the 7a as part of my warm up. It's a great route.
There's a 6c sport route or an E3 you can go up but you might as well do Persistance, it's easy and very good.
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How do you aim to approach Requiem Adam, ground-up or top rope inspection? I have always wanted to try this route although lack of proximity may make it a pipe dream!
I won't be able to dedicate enough visits to warrant a true ground up attempt, so going to ab it and have a good old look. Try a few moves here and there. Then try it.
It's all about getting a sequence for the top of the crack, that's the only really hard climbing on it. The top is steep and quite tricky but nowhere near as hard as the last section of the crack. If I'd have top roped it I reckon I'd have sent it pretty quickly. It was fucking scary the first time I reached the legde, you feel relitively safe climbing the crack, but when you're on that headwall climbing above those 2 wires it's a different story, especially when you don't know what's coming and there isn't any chalk anywhere. Great fun :)
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How do you aim to approach Requiem Adam, ground-up or top rope inspection? I have always wanted to try this route although lack of proximity may make it a pipe dream!
I won't be able to dedicate enough visits to warrant a true ground up attempt, so going to ab it and have a good old look. Try a few moves here and there. Then try it.
It's all about getting a sequence for the top of the crack, that's the only really hard climbing on it. The top is steep and quite tricky but nowhere near as hard as the last section of the crack. If I'd have top roped it I reckon I'd have sent it pretty quickly. It was fucking scary the first time I reached the legde, you feel relitively safe climbing the crack, but when you're on that headwall climbing above those 2 wires it's a different story, especially when you don't know what's coming and there isn't any chalk anywhere. Great fun :)
Cheers Will!
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Persistence is 7a+ and meant to be solid at that grade, it even shut down "willackers" onsight ;)
The 6c is 6c+ too! good route tho.
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Persistence is 7a+ and meant to be solid at that grade, it even shut down "willackers" onsight ;)
I onsighted it, but was just asking about other ways up.
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Persistence is 7a+ and meant to be solid at that grade, it even shut down "willackers" onsight ;)
That's really surprising considering how good I am at sport climbing ;)
It's 7a+, once you have a sequence it is very steady for 7a+
-
Right this year I'm going to get my shit together.
1 - Carried forward from 2012 - the sea arch traverse. If the planets align and we get a decent dry spell it will go.
2 - get sorted with new house
3 - get woody up in new house
4 - get bouldering fitness back on above mentioned woody
5 - get to wall once a weekish and get on some routes
6 - NYD I tipped the scales at 14 st 1.5, my heaviest yet. Aim to be back down to 13 st by the time clocks change.
7 - maybe take on a proper redpoint project for the first time since 2005. If 2 above pans out maybe get on this
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=198382 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=198382) as it will be on the doorstep.
8 - get on some of the 30 or so FAs I have earmarked for development
9 - get on some traddy stuff - esp potential new local crag and some west coast spots esp Ardnamurchan108 - yoga at least once every 2 weeks, preferrably weekly.
10 - surf more. Maybe get an inflatable SUP to cruise around coast (subject to 2 as well)
11 - ski / board more
12 - sort out shit at work either by fight or flight
13 - Maybe do Passportes if UKB massive are out again. I will definitely be in Les Gets at that time.
14 - Get decent desktop and get better at photo and video editing
a few more than the 2 last year!
Looks like #1 is ticked, bar any slipups. Double garage - woody build commences end March!
#13 is down the pan though; couldn't make dates work as family are over from Oz, but will be in Les Gets 3 to 15 July if anoone is out there - flights booked, first hol outside UK in 4 years!
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You mean 2, shirley? Good news!
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Balls yes. 10 mins walk from Boltsheugh. 20 to Craig Stirling.
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Font 7b by the end of the year sounds good and is more than attainable..
Boulder and DWS developing... Shit loads around here.
Get down to the Grampians this winter too.
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Had a try on beachball early this morning in brilliant connies. It's now moved to a long term goal, I was fucking miles off!
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Sub 18minute 5k
Done!
New goal, 17.30 5km
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Right this year I'm going to get my shit together.
1 - Carried forward from 2012 - the sea arch traverse. If the planets align and we get a decent dry spell it will go.
2 - get sorted with new house
3 - get woody up in new house
4 - get bouldering fitness back on above mentioned woody
5 - get to wall once a weekish and get on some routes
6 - NYD I tipped the scales at 14 st 1.5, my heaviest yet. Aim to be back down to 13 st by the time clocks change.
7 - maybe take on a proper redpoint project for the first time since 2005. If 2 above pans out maybe get on this
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=198382 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=198382) as it will be on the doorstep.
8 - get on some of the 30 or so FAs I have earmarked for development
9 - get on some traddy stuff - esp potential new local crag and some west coast spots esp Ardnamurchan108 - yoga at least once every 2 weeks, preferrably weekly.
10 - surf more. Maybe get an inflatable SUP to cruise around coast (subject to 2 as well)
11 - ski / board more
12 - sort out shit at work either by fight or flight
13 - Maybe do Passportes if UKB massive are out again. I will definitely be in Les Gets at that time.
14 - Get decent desktop and get better at photo and video editing
a few more than the 2 last year!
Looks like #2 is ticked, bar any slipups. Double garage - woody build commences end March!
#13 is down the pan though; couldn't make dates work as family are over from Oz, but will be in Les Gets 3 to 15 July if anoone is out there - flights booked, first hol outside UK in 4 years!
Epic fail on #6 - 13st 10 on monday - not even close, still officially a fact hunt. Blaming crap weather and house stuff taking up time.
#11 - relative success though.
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Finally got some enthusiasm for climbing back so lets have a look at these...
2012 was not a vintage climbing year (except Squamish), so I will make some public goals for a bit of motivation.
1. 10 7a's on the bolts. Had a go at a couple at the weekend but no ticks. Felt like I was climbing reasonably well but head wasn't so good above the bolts.
2. Klondike, Pocket City and Solid Gold at Pen Trwyn. Not been
3. The Big Groove and Rat Race on Main Cliff. Not been
4. Red Wall on Red Wall. Not been
5. Something easy at the easy end of North Stack Wall. Not been
6. Go to Pembroke at least once (no trips this year) and do another route in the leap. (Maybe Bloody Sunday if I have a cup of MTFU). Not been
7. Go to Cornwall (Bosigran and Sharpnose are pre-requisites). Holiday booked for end of the month
8. Climb in the Pass a bit more. Not been
9. Get on Laurin or Flaky Wall at High Tor. Not been
10.Something on Craig Arthur. Maybe Manikins of Horror. Done. Manikins of Horror got done on Saturday. Bit of a let down as a route but at least I got stuck in and climbed it with only the minimum of faff in the loose bit...
Only 9/10 remaining!
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Finally got some enthusiasm for climbing back so lets have a look at these...
2012 was not a vintage climbing year (except Squamish), so I will make some public goals for a bit of motivation.
1. 10 7a's on the bolts. Had a go at a couple at the weekend but no ticks. Felt like I was climbing reasonably well but head wasn't so good above the bolts.
2. Klondike, Pocket City and Solid Gold at Pen Trwyn. Not been
3. The Big Groove and Rat Race on Main Cliff. Not been
4. Red Wall on Red Wall. Not been
5. Something easy at the easy end of North Stack Wall. Not been
6. Go to Pembroke at least once (no trips this year) and do another route in the leap. (Maybe Bloody Sunday if I have a cup of MTFU). Not been
7. Go to Cornwall (Bosigran and Sharpnose are pre-requisites). Holiday booked for end of the month
8. Climb in the Pass a bit more. Not been
9. Get on Laurin or Flaky Wall at High Tor. Not been
10.Something on Craig Arthur. Maybe Manikins of Horror. Done. Manikins of Horror got done on Saturday. Bit of a let down as a route but at least I got stuck in and climbed it with only the minimum of faff in the loose bit...
Only 9/10 remaining!
Good to see people psyched for the Eglwyseg, good effort on Manikins!
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1. complete my 12 week training plan without getting horribly injured or slacking off. Tick! Although I got Ill for 3 weeks after and was on 2 courses of antibiotics by the end!
2. Climb Louis Armstrong. Fail - not been the cave for 1 year, will change very soon!
3. Climb Red Baron at Shipley. (Standup) Fail - not been back yet
4. Double body weight deadlift. Fail - got to within 6 kilos, then started to get a dodgy lower back again. Will go back to this later in the year and build up even more slowly
5. Retain the UKB FF title again! On course for glorious victory but very aware of that Manc supporter Lincoln being a bit too close for comfort!
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5. Retain the UKB FF title again! On course for glorious victory but very aware of that Manc supporter Lincoln being a bit too close for comfort!
No chance of me catching you!
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No chance of me catching you!
Good hustle! ;)
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Mine are really a repeat of last year's...
Onsight E4 consistently. Done very little trad climbing this year so far. Did get Moon Walk done though, not onsight but a nice tick. Cornwall next week.
Onsight a couple of proper E5s.
Get on a Peak 8a that I'm motivated to do. E.g. Unleashing. Not been on 8a, but first session on Body Machine was good, think it will go with some persistence.
Flash 7b. Very close at Brean Down, second go which is UK best.
3 Font 7a+ and 1 7B. 2 7A+ so far, and very close on others, looking good for this.
Use fingerboard at least twice a week over the winter. Was going well with this, and definitely saw the difference. Unfortunately tweaky finger, then dodgy bicep and now hand injury seems to be getting in the way. Progress though.[/orange]
Money and time dependent it would be good to get some big routes done in Yosemite/Dolomites/Verdon or similar, at the expense of the other goals, but we'll see! Not looking good for this, but gives more time to focus on the above.
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Trad
Solid E2 - done some E1s
Some E3 - nothing harder than E1 so far
Sport
Lead 7b - Jam Session at bruixes
solid 6c onsight - everyone has been second go so pretty close
Bouldering
7A - got a project making slow progress
Specific stuff:
Top out the cheif
The grand Wall - Squamish by best possible style
Pebble Wall
Flying arête - fell off top move 6 times in a session
Crucific traverse and low
Climb at gogarth
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Pray for a dry 2013
Strap my ball bag on and climb an E6 grit route this winter.
Continue to develope and train hard on my 45 and barrel.
Clip my way up an 8a in the summer.
Sail the 7c's
I climbed 'Art Nouveau' above pads this winter does that count!? :doubt:
Trainings gone very well and I stayed devoted to the 45 and barrel.
Not clipped any bolts yet but have draughted up a to do list!
Climbed 'Virtruvian Man' in a session, am close to finishing off 'The Pinch' both 7C boulder probs.
If the weather is kind and I can persuade one of my climbing buddies to share an 8a quest with me I should be on...
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'cus it's Friday afternoon and I've seen a bandwagon. .
1. Do the Knock, Nosferatu, No More Excuses and Tracka'thacat (dont deck on wings)
Flashed Nosferatu, first of grade whether a 5 or a 6. Havent even made it westside and didnt go up to high neb in the snow.
1a. Boulder 7b - Monochrome, My Apple, PowerHumps
not tried any 7Bs
2. 7c sport RP - Obsene Gesture/Toilet, New Dawn, Let the tripe increase etc
chose Obscene Gesture, 2 Unsuccessful RPs, feel close or felt close as have now bust finger.
3. Onsight a mega 7a/+ home or abroad
Onsighted Bueno Bueno in Siurana, mega, buzzing etc.
4. Trad E3/4 - Memory Lane, Adjudicator Wall, Flaky Wall, Pembroke
not been on Peak trad or the Pass yet, had opportunity in Pembroke for a day but stayed on E1s, felt piss so am dissapointed with myself, still time.
5. Get to Pembroke and Catalunya
tick on both
6. Get out of flat into house
Turns out woman no want move, make man angry grrr
7. Develop girlfriend holiday into DWS trip to Mallorca (wheels in motion)
even got mates coming, motion carried
8. Move out of photograhic punterdom and make longer/better videos throughout year
The zone video got an ok reception, still making stupid mistakes. Took one good photo in 5 months, down to the camera rather than me.
9. If it rains for another month scrap all the above and leave the sinking kingdom
quietly confident about the summer of '13
all in all looking good (must of set them too easy) plenty of time for all goals. I am treating the recent finger gripe properly so just hope it will recover quick enough.
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Buy house
Tickety tick :bounce:
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1. Finish my Red Wall Link Up Project Only been on rock twice.
2. Boulder 7c. I think the Red Wall project will be this grade, so that is excluded. It'd be nice to do a 7C that doesn't instantly get downgraded too. Ditto.
3. Reacquaint myself with Silverdale after a year of not visiting. Ditto.
4. Build a woody, and more crucially, use it Planned. I've just got to finish painting, then buy some wood.......
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists Not been out.
6. Run another marathon or two Did Manchester, and ran the course for the Rivington Ultra Trail. Doing the event in November.
7. Go to Font Booked for August.
8. Do at least twenty new Wainwrights Done 12 so far this year.
9. 7b in Font Probably unlikely in August after a year of doing no climbing!
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100 Working my way through Gone with the Wind at present.
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Same aim as Last Year.
Get up the Beast.
All holds found, moves held, and Psyche Found, all I need to do now is Start Training..
...Off to do some Press Ups!
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Same aim as Last Year.
Get up the Beast.
All holds found, moves held, and Psyche Found, all I need to do now is Start Training..
...Off to do some Press Ups!
I think Dave Graham established that if you're taking it seriously, you also have to do sit-ups (http://island.io/NoaGfElG).
(Good luck!)
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Just got back into the swing of things, now that my work life is in order.
So here are my better late than never goals:
1. Get bouldering regularly again (Two sessions in, lets keep it going!)
2. Get out and hit Kent and the Midlands for some bouldering on actual boulders instead of spending half my life at indoor walls.
3. Be more sociable.......i'm working on it!
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Start bouldering again, having done pretty much nothing in 2012. Apart from a slight injury to my left bicep, I've been getting out a lot more regularily. Tick!. Start and see through to the end the insanity workout in January. FAIL. Keep off the booze for all of January and generally keep it in control for the rest of my life. FAIL on the January thing but generally a lot less than previously consumed. Get my business established and sort my finances out. Certainly picking up more trade and moved into other areas of work also so happy days. Still skint though. Get at least one decent holiday booked and also make it to Font for the first time (could be one and the same!) FAIL. Grow my hair again and stop looking like a thug. MASSIVE TICK! Finish the remaining jobs on the house. FAIL Get established doing regular DJ sets in and around Keswick. TICK. All in all, should be easy.......
Not too bad, but could do better. C-
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I immediately regret writing this as normally my plans are massively over ambitious. In an attempt to manage my expectations I've kept it as vague as possible:
i. Stop wasting my time on anything other than inspiring problems
Had to remind myself of this on more than one occasion
ii. Climb more stuff outside the peak
Trips to various Yorkshire & Northumberland crags. Need to get over to Wales / Lakes
iii. Reiver (see aims i & ii.)
Boom! Bank Holiday ground up tick in a session
iv. Font 7C+ (must meet criteria of aim no. i)
Did Heaven in your Hands, not convinced it's 7c+ but to be honest I wanted to climb this regardless of the grade
v. Finish my on - off 4 year affair with Arch Enemies (ideally this would be completed tops off for power style in front of a bunch of hot female tourists who all want to sleep with me afterwards)
Not been over to Dovedale yet
vi. Be less shallow (see aim no. v)
It seems publicly stating my goals has either galvanised me into action or I should have been more ambitious :-\
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Font 7b by the end of the year sounds good and is more than attainable.. Working on it. Made plenty of progress...
Boulder and DWS developing... Shit loads around here. Got some good bouldering being developed. DWS will have to wait until it gets abit warmer but have got some walls in mind.
Get down to the Grampians this winter too. Check! Going down there in 2 weeks for a week.... Can't fucking wait...
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Too late in join really I know but recent signs of a bit of form coming back have made me determined to capitalize on it after a couple of pretty slack years:
1. 7B+. I know that looks like grade chasing but ...Need to think of a good target. Don't think there's much to go at in Cheshire so maybe North Wales or South Lakes. Any ideas?
2. Trying 1. might give me the confidence to mop a couple of remaining route projects in Cheshire
3. Continue scouting out new problems and crags (hopefully!) in Cheshire
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Some ideas for you Andy:
N Wales
The pit and the pendulum, Harvey Oswald ss (both @ milestone buttress boulders)
Ring of fire high, left wall high (7c but ok if you're good @ vert) (Parisellas)
S Lakes
Rigpa ss (Woodwell) (prob more like 7B but worth doing)
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Thanks Richie, I quite like the Milestone idea. I did go to try Harvey Oswald once and split a tip the second I pulled on - shouldn't let that put me off though. They might be quite 'summer proof' too.
Haven't been to Woodwell but it looks like Rigpa isn't on one of those roofs there. Another good possibility.
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Texas hold em at Trowbarrow would be top of my list if I was after a 7B+ round there.
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They might be quite 'summer proof' too.
did harvey stand last weekend whilst we were waiting for the pass to empty out a bit. despite being a roasting day it was in good nick, seems a good bet.
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Half way through the year update
Re-establish regular climbing and training - move somewhere/ meet people that makes this possible. Done so far - and moving north is sort of in motion
Sport
Climb more 7c sport routes, and a 7c+. Have climbed 1 more 7c so far
Go to Ceuse - Finish off Vagabond. Try Les Collonetes and Priviledge du Serpent.Ceuse was sick, did vagabond and came really close to Privilege
Beat last years '7's' - 18 12/18 so far
Trad
Get back up to E4 onsights again.
and Wall of the Worlds/ any other cool looking E5.
Beat last years E-points - 78 Some way to go with on 2 E points so far!
Climb Freeborn Man
Sub 18minute 5k Done
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Targets:
1. Finish off Zoo York - haven't got back on it due to finger injury.
2. Try Jason's Roof - Ticked in a session YYFY
3. Do more Bloc 8A's - Tried a few
4. Try some 8A+'s
5. Get Stronger fingers!! - No specific training but getting stronger.
6. Attempt some sport climbing - Managed a short 3 bolt 7a when recovering from a op.
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Half-time score:
Pfalz. - no, but possibility of a trip over summer
Berdorf. - no, but possibility of a trip over summer
Lewis. - no, but have a keen partner lined up for the next month and two possible week windows IF the weather dries out
Climb some challenging routes at Glen Nevis, Creag Dubh, and Ullapool area. - no, did a tiny bit around Ullapool and then my climbing randomly went to shit
Keep active in general. - yes, have kept going despite demoralising punterdom
Wow. Given I had a great start to the year, that's pretty fucking bollox. Goals FAIL. No idea what happened around May, I just suddenly got shit after the best bouldering -> sport -> trad start to a year ever. Still there are chances of getting away, and I am pushing hard and training to try to get my confidence / competence back.
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The previous lists:
Aims for 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8416)
Aims for 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10711)
Aims for 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13192)
Aims for 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16685)
Aims for 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19228)
Let's be having them:
Bouldering:
Consolidate at 7b
Do a 7b+
Maybe do a 7c?!
Trad:
At least attempt to do some E3s and E4s.
If not that then at least feel like I'm reaching my potential!
Get out more
Fiddle:
Go to the session more
Play Cooley's Reel at the session without falling off the back
Last week I "got the moves" on this one. Just need to "link it" now. :-\
Life:
Buy house
More reading, less TV
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eatswood Traverse After a couple of near misses (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JhVe2gNCgE) YYFY on 20th Feb
Lady Big Claque Font was a washout at Easter so didn't even get on it
Killerweed Been working on the Perverse Reverse start footless - if I can get rid of corns on top of foot then this should go easier with toe hooks or heel toe
Austrian Oak From Mar-start May had 13 sessions and no progress on last year. Working on getting stronger for it in the Autumn
Anger Management Good progress on this currently, shame about heat
Do the moves on Mecca Not even sure why I put this up as an aim
Re-bolt some Peak routes starting with Tin Of Placed 5 Bolts at Tor so far
Onsight a 7c Booked to go to Kalymnos with son for a week in October so will try this then
10,000 8a nu points Again, depends on how Kalymnos goes
2 new routes I've got my eye on One down (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22470.0.html), one to go
One arm an edge Started training for this again. Currently need +5kg on right on BM slot
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My 2012 was pretty shite in terms of bulk climbing. 48 logged climbs.. :chair: I did however manage to climb my hardest boulder and spend a month and a bit in the Alps. So more of that please and over a hundred climbs this time.
Done over 100 climbs so far, lets get another 100 in!
Managed to go climbing in Joshua Tree and Céüse for the first time, amazing.
Did the Keel last year. Ticked blockbuster so far, would like to get the bulb this year.
Got a new best sport climbing RP, Flash and O/S grade
Happy days but can do better.
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my goal is to get in 10-15 hours of moderate to high volume climbing a week, in as varied environments as possible, with motivated partners and friends that i can get energy off of and give energy back.
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Onsight E4 consistently. Hardly got on any last year, and chose bad ones when I did. This also involves rocking up to the crag with routes in mind and being motivated to go for it. Not totally consistent, but have at least got on some and success rate getting better.
Onsight a couple of proper E5s. Not tried yet.
Get on a Peak 8a that I'm motivated to do. E.g. Unleashing. Got on Unleashing, ticking it is another matter, but keen for more.
Flash 7b. Frustratingly close at Pen Trwyn (slightly better route reading needed, couldn't make a clip), definitely fit enough for this which is good
3 Font 7a+ and 1 7B. No 7B yet, but several 7A+
Use fingerboard at least twice a week over the winter. This went ok til a minor finger injury, made gains. No fingerboard in the new house as yet.
Money and time dependent it would be good to get some big routes done in Yosemite/Dolomites/Verdon or similar, at the expense of the other goals, but we'll see! Possibility of combining with trip to Norway...
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1. Wales: organise successful München DAV Wales Trip. Organised successfully. Hut is booked, seven people including myself have flights booked, met up up with old friends from the uk host club in Ailefroide last week. Climb E2 (Strand / Left Wall / Daisy / Dervish) The actual climbing remains to be done: first week in September
2. Frankenjura: as regularly as possible. More than this last year's two visits. Primary obstacle here is Alps-obsessed partners.
Promising. Four visits so far, although the first two were complete washouts due to the Great Central European Deluge of May & June. Actual climbing achievements to date have been limited (I am building up an extensive collection of open projects), but I now have regular contacts/partners who are interested in the 'jura and don't just want to go to the Alps all the time. Good partners are the main thing in the long run.
3. Dolomites(*): two or more big alpine rock routes
(* or Kaisergebirge, Oberreintal etc. etc. Dolomites just happens to be my favourite of the alpine rock areas I've visited so far)
Went to Ailefroide for my main alpine season week this year for a chance to meet up with some old friends from the UK. Had a great time and was much impressed with the Ecrins as an area. The only multipitch route we actually succeeded on was in the valley and not especially "alpine" though. Might still manage a weekend in Kaiser, Oberreintal or Dolomites later in the year
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5. Freeway in reasonable style attempt scheduled for later this month
if that falls through my mate simon will be up for this when we are out there next month
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goals:
-finish off a bunch of stuff i should have done this year (v crimps, transformer lh, spam, severus snape, sabotage, astro nave- optionally) none >:(
-consistently 7C in a session almost flashed two in south africa so I'm going to claim it
-8A without a doubt attempt some harder stuff, 8A+, 8B... wooo done nutsa, tried black shadow and did all the moves too, need to get on more though
-keep with the board sole reason for doing anything this year
-get to ratho every so often and get better at routes (better not stronger) not touched a rope
-stretch a lot more and stay as injury free as possible) been doing loads of yoga and no tweaks so far, not greening it till the end of the year though
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-8A without a doubt attempt some harder stuff, 8A+, 8B... wooo done nutsa, tried black shadow and did all the moves too, need to get on more though
Nice one on Nutsa, saw the video! Isn't black shadow banned now though?
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-8A without a doubt attempt some harder stuff, 8A+, 8B... wooo done nutsa, tried black shadow and did all the moves too, need to get on more though
Nice one on Nutsa, saw the video! Isn't black shadow banned now though?
got on it literally the week before the ban happened though, weirdly enough though it didnt really seem like there was much to indicate that the place was closed in the layby/carpark, they must have been relying on word of mouth...
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Half-time score:
Pfalz. - YYFY, just back from 10 days there, waaaaaay too hot but ace exploring 21 different crags in a magical area.
Berdorf. - no, but possibility of a trip over summer
Lewis. - no, but have a keen partner lined up for the next month and two possible week windows IF the weather dries out
Climb some challenging routes at Glen Nevis, Creag Dubh, and Ullapool area. - no, did a tiny bit around Ullapool and then my climbing randomly went to shit
Keep active in general. - yes, have kept going despite demoralising punterdom
Wow. Given I had a great start to the year, that's pretty fucking bollox. Goals FAIL. No idea what happened around May, I just suddenly got shit after the best bouldering -> sport -> trad start to a year ever. Still there are chances of getting away, and I am pushing hard and training to try to get my confidence / competence back.
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Time for an update...
- Have a good trip to Ceuse in July - drag myself up an 8a (hopefully Carte Blanche) and get some good 7's done (Berlin, Super Mickey, Lapinerie all in mind) - just back from Ceuse. Had a good trip, did 7c 2nd go and first 7b onsight but no 8a. Did lots of onsighting and didn't really put any time into redpointing. Going to give myself a green for this despite no 8a.
- Train PE properly and get route fit ahead of aforementioned trip - yes, think I did ok with this. Felt good on long steep routes.
- Get out lots locally at weekends - have been out quite a bit, racked up a fair bit of mileage in the mid 7's.
- Make the effort to get out after work in the summer - have been out after work a few times but perhaps not as much as I could.
- Get lots of mileage at 7b to 7c+ - done ok at this, but have done a lot of 7a-7b+ and not really gotten on enough 7c and upwards. Need to change this.
- Finish off Liquid Crystal once it's dry again (after falling off last move in October) - YYFY! Did this back in May, first (soft?) 8a
- Get down to Cornish granite at least a couple of times - went down for a few days in February, got spanked. Due a rematch.
- Get to Pembroke at least a few times and try harder - no, haven't been to pembroke this year, sport took over ahead of Ceuse trip. May switch back to trad in the next few months.
- Do some bouldering, would be nice to tick 7B - again, have been working on sport and have done basically no bouldering. Font trip planned in October so will get back on the bouldering before then and hopefully push my grade.
- Try and get rid off / avoid niggling finger injuries - No finger issues whatsoever, possibly related to the lack of bouldering!
Specific local routes I'd like to at least get on:
Lurking Sear (Wintours)
Academic (Avon)
Featherless Biped (Avon)
Arms Race (Avon)
Right-Hand Man (Cheddar)
Shock of the New (Cheddar)
Driller Killer (Cheddar)
Follow the Slick Red Road (Cheddar)
Bird of Paradise (Cheddar)
Manchmals (Cheddar) - Got on but didn't like, prob won't go back to it
House Burning Down (Cheddar)
Berlin (Dinas)
H1N1 (Dinas)
Empire (Ansteys)
Cider Soak (Ansteys)
Not too unhappy with progress so far. Sport has been going ok, and trad and bouldering goals have fallen a bit by the wayside as a result. Hopefully can put a bit more time into each over the rest of the year.
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Nice to see some Avon aspirations there. How about something like Bristol Unillustrated?
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Interesting, not one I've heard of. What's it like?
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It just struck me it fits quite well with the other choices style and grade wise; Avon but not too "Avon". High up on main wall; bit of easy climbing, great bouldery intro crux on opposing gastons, quick finishing sprint on finger locks and pockets. Peg protected but effectively a clip up. I didn't really use French grades at the time (quarter of a century ago) but I'd guess at somewhere around 7b+/c. I really enjoyed it.
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Ok great, thanks for that. Will take a look!
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September update. Been really struggling for motivation this year, but finally got a bit of keenness back. Pembroke'll do that for you!
1. 109 7a's on the bolts. Barney Rubble - Torbryan (is this really 7a+? Did it second go so it is probably soft!
2. Klondike, Pocket City and Solid Gold at Pen Trwyn. Been but not tried
3. The Big Groove and Rat Race on Main Cliff. Not been
4. Red Wall on Red Wall. Not been
5. Something easy at the easy end of North Stack Wall. Not been
6. Go to Pembroke at least once (no trips this year) and do another route in the leap. (Maybe Bloody Sunday if I have a cup of MTFU). Hooray. Pembroke's great! Sat on a wire low down on Bloody Sunday, but got on with it after that!
7. Go to Cornwall (Bosigran and Sharpnose are pre-requisites). Taking a pass for this, didn't go to Sharpnose or Bosigran because I have a stupid dog, but I did have a lovely trip!
8. Climb in the Pass a bit more. Had a nice little trip there for a few days. It's nice when the weather's good innit.
9. Get on Laurin or Flaky Wall at High Tor. Not been
10.Something on Craig Arthur. Maybe Manikins of Horror.
5.9 goals remaining. Better pull my finger out.
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Sport:
1. First 7b -
Butterfly Collector - Ruthin (Was on this at the weekend, hopefully get ticked this Sunday)
Walking With Barrance - Dinbren
Sunny Side Up Mix - Craig Arthur
2. Try something harder - possibly a 7b+ or 7c that looks inspiring.
3. On-sight a 7a - Few possibilities around maybe something at Pinfold or The Marsh Flower at Craig Arthur.
Bouldering:
4. More V6's and a first V7. Middle Undercut V7 at Hope Mnt.
5. Trip to Font in October - Get some good ticks and make a video
6. Trad:
Get some routes of any grade in. Don't trad climb enough. Headpoint something hard this year. Possibly E6/E7. . . Shoot To Thrill at Pinfold?
7. Fingerboard:
Carry on with Repeater workout and mix it up every 6 weeks.
8. Everything Else:
Finish bolting and climb my project.
Head to some new areas - Malham, Kilnsey, Chee Dale.
Climb more on the Orme.
Boulder as well as Sport in the summer instead of sacking off bouldering altogether like last year.
So far...
1. Ticked 5 F7b's when I only expected to get one...
2. Did my first 7b+ in August.
3. On-sighted F6c+ recently and retroflashed a F7a (I couldn't remember the moves/being on it but my log book tells me otherwise)
4. Fail - Bouldering has been a write off so far, will be more keen in the cooler months.
5. Haven't even booked a gite yet... Another fail
6. Only done one trad route all year a 3 star E2 5c at the World's End.
7.
- Finished bolting and climbed my project, a great F7b.
- Planned to go to Kilnsey on my birthday but it rained, this is still on the cards...
- Have climbed more on the Orme than ever before
- Well and truly sacked off bouldering in summer...
A good year so far for sport climbing!
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Font 7b by the end of the year sounds good and is more than attainable.. Working on it. Made plenty of progress...
Boulder and DWS developing... Shit loads around here. Got some good bouldering being developed. DWS will have to wait until it gets abit warmer but have got some walls in mind.
Get down to the Grampians this winter too. Check! Going down there in 2 weeks for a week.... Can't fucking wait...
Ugh. Had a big 2 month break from climbing right in the middle of winter. Fucked if I know why, it just happened and I only got on rock for a day a month... V8 aint gonna happen this year unless some miracle happens... Lets try for V7..
Developing... Plenty of development going on. Put up about 30 problems so far at various crags with a shit-tonne of projects. Just getting warm enough for DWS, was out last week looking for walls, access, approaches etc. Hopefully get on a couple tomorrow.
Grampians. Check. Had a good first week there. Although I told myself not to just rush at everything because I'll be back alot... Of course, I just hit everything... Nearly got a couple of V7s, close to a V8 and 1 move off a V9... Awesome lowball compression up a prow. All I had to do was move my left foot 12 inches up the prow and I would've had it... Pretty pissed by that but I did start trying it on my 4th day on, then got back on it on my last. No rest days either dumbass.
Entered in the next round of the NSW State bouldering comp aswell. As long as I don't do too shit in that... I'm more interested in the next day, putting up new problems in a new area just outside Canberra.
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After succeeding in the last year to avoid injury and climb well I feel that I have put myself in a strong position for the coming year.
Once the initial post-christmas languidness and obesity have worn off, my aims are:
Triple 8 project - 8a, 8A and E8 - On the backburner since I hurt my shoulder, but it was going really well. Maybe next year.
In order to achieve this I aim to succeed in these goals:
Lose the christmas weight and then continue till I hit ~70kg Whoops...
Force myself to earn some stamina points by tying onto a rope and doing some of those route things. Went really well, when it was going. Went from shitting myself on 7a to climbing 7c+ over a month
Go to Ceuse and make use of my new jug hauling ability to scrape my way up a problem or two. Injured myself - so went to Thailand instead, did some bouldering...
Do some DWS as I have still to learn how it feels to be shitting myself above a swirling void of darkness. Missed the whole season. Lame.
Boulder somewhere in America - ideally Hueco or Joes Valley. This will be a year end reward for being a good boy and training hard. No reward for me I think, might go to font instead.
Actually make a few videos with my camera, maybe even one/a series charting this progress. I did! and I reckon they are pretty decent. Redesigned my blog and had some very positive reviews overall. Happy on this front.
Consider what I want to do with my life? :shrug: So far struggled to find inspiration - anyone got a handout?
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Trad
Solid E2 - not solid but did one or two in canada depending on which grade comparison you check
Some E3 - Seconded some clean in Canada
Sport
Lead 7b - Jam Session at bruixes
solid 6c onsight - all have been second go so pretty close but not really sports climbed since early june
Bouldering
7A - got a project making slow progress
Specific stuff:
Top out the cheif - Tick Banana peel>granville street>Squamish buttress>butt lite link
The grand Wall - Squamish by best possible style - Was not ready so did not try I did feel better when I heard of tom and petes epic :)
Pebble Wall
Flying arête - fell off top move 6 times in a sessiona fuck tonne of times in many sessions
Crucific traverse and low - Progress but not really been on either properly
Climb at gogarth - Dont think I will now
bit of a shitty read oh well month and a half left
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Doing this early cos it's not going to change in the next couple of months!!
Full-time score:
Pfalz. - YYFY, just back from 10 days there, waaaaaay too hot but ace exploring 21 different crags in a magical area.
Berdorf. - no, ran out of weather, unlikely to happen over winter??
Lewis. - no, ran out of weather, postphoned to next year
Climb some challenging routes at Glen Nevis, Creag Dubh, and Ullapool area. - YYFY, got my confidence and determination back after Pfalz and had a brilliant autumn doing some amazing and inspiring climbs
Keep active in general. - yes, have kept going despite demoralising punterdom
Winter:
Keep climbing trad on suitable suntraps - including grit if I can organise it.
Get abroad as much as possible.
Keep training hard but taking care of injuries.
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1) Buy/borrow/steal massive rack - Done, bought (it still wasn't big enough at times).
2) 6 month trip - Done
3) Find job, preferably one I enjoy, close to home with a sympathetic (to climbing) boss. - Hmmm does the Foundry count? It certainly wasn't what I meant when I wrote it.
I probably should've been more specific with my list for the trip but I guess at the point of writing I didn't have it all planned out.
Mainly:
Get Married without it turning into an all consuming financial nightmare
A big aid line on El Cap (not the Nose). - Shamelessly good reason to back though.
although there were plenty of 'greens' that I hadn't planned or hoped for.
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I don't have many specific aims apart from a new route on the Orme (should go if there's enough dry weather).
Done. Good idea to only have one aim- more achievable!
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Offshore for the rest of the year now so I may as well post up...
Rethink after epic failures on all of 2012's goals...
2013:
1. Recover from current injuries (dodgy neck, torn pulley). In progress but slow going. Belay glasses massively helped my neck
2. Not get any more injuries. Strained a back muscle for 2 weeks in the summer but otherwise good!
3. Trad - do some. I live in Devon and have easy access to Cornwall, Somerset, Dorset etc, how hard can this be? Go to Pembroke & Swanage. Managed a couple of weekends in Cornwall so technically success but more would be good. Complete fail on the Pembroke and Swanage fronts
4. Sport - Stop repeating Thread Flintstone ad infinitum & do at least a couple of 7s that are new to me. Only did one this year and that was softer than a soft thing that's been squashed by Mr Softy. Yes, but in retrospect not a demanding goal... 4 new 7a's and b's, 2 at Brean, 1 at Ansteys, 1 at Torbryan. 3 were 1st or 2nd redpoint and the 7b was 2nd session.
5. DWS - do more than the one afternoon we did this year. Complete fail, not sure I've even dipped a toe in the sea this year!
6. make use of CC membership & use the huts.No. Fail again. But to my complete surprise the missus came camping more than once and claimed to enjoy herself!
7. Take more photos. Yes, impulse buy of a half-decent zoom lens has massively improved climbing photos and a better case means I actually carry the camera once in a while which unsurprisingly means more photos...
8. 1.5 BW deadlift (without putting my back out again). So ~112kg. At which point I can justify some grown up olympic weights... Managed just before I came offshore. Loss of a couple of kilos of bodyweight helped as target weight became 110kg. More to come I hope.
No specific route goals as that invariably means I won't even get on them but vague aspirations locally: Call to Arms, the Lynch, Threadbare, Rainbow Bridge, White Rhino Tea, White Life. Writing wish lists down still means I don't do them! Made it to the last clip on Threadbare (LH start) and linked the Lynch in 2 sections otherwise haven't even looked at any of the others this year...
I think 1 to 3 will carry over to next year, 4 I need to up a bit next year and do at least one 7b+ and a 7 in my anti-style so a long vertical stamina-fest at Portland, 6 I'll carry over and change to just more weekends away and 8 I'm not sure on a target, a steady increase without putting my back out, will try and put a number to it another time.
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Nothing much more likely to happen, and I'm sitting around at home with man flu, so:
1. Wales: organise successful München DAV Wales Trip. Yes. Climb E2 (Strand / Left Wall / Daisy / Dervish) No. It was probably never realistic to leap straight back into trad climbing after more than ten years away and immediately climb above my previous standard. Also learned that organising a climbing group in a (for them) foreign country takes a lot of time and energy and isn't really compatible with single-minded pursuit of one's own climbing goals. Big mental build-up for not much result. Disappointed.
2. Frankenjura: as regularly as possible. Appalling spring weather meant a late start to the season, but got some good trips in early summer. Autumn was a complete cock-up for various reasons related to family and climbing partners, hardly got out at all despite some excellent weather (right now for example). Must do better in the spring.
3. Dolomites: two or more big alpine rock routes. Went to Ailefroide instead and only succeeded on one big multipitch, Snoopy Direct. Class route though and was much impressed with the Ecrins area generally. Would definitely go again, and have already heard some mates are planning to go to La Berarde next summer.
All in all a rather mixed year. A couple of trips away to beautiful places with good people - which, however, were very modestly successful in terms of ticks ticked.
I reached my best sport climbing grade ever, but only by carefully cherry picking projects that suit my strengths: bouldery/technical/fingery. I have a huge confidence and grade deficit on things that don't suit me: thuggy/pumpy/endurance. Something to work on over the winter then.
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That time of year again...
Re-establish regular climbing and training - move somewhere/ meet people that makes this possible.
Gone the wrong direction and ended up in London, getting a job took precedent over climbing this year. However, am training regularly, and do enjoy indoor climbing so not all bad. Just need to get outside a little more in the new year.
Sport
Climb more 7c sport routes, and a 7c+. Climbed one more 7c this year. Came fairly close to doing another (Dominatrix) and very very nearly climbed Privilege du Serpent.
Go to Ceuse - Finish off Vagabond. Try Les Collonetes and Priviledge du Serpent.Ceuse was sick, did vagabond and came really close to Privilege
Beat last years '7's' - 18 13/18 - But spending 10 months of the year nowhere near rock didnt help.
Trad
Get back up to E4 onsights again.
Done. Only one this year but did it after not climbing for a month so confident I could have done more.
Wall of the Worlds/ any other cool looking E5.
Not done - didnt try any E5's
Beat last years E-points - 78 Nowhere near. 22 E-points in 8 days trad climbing, did some great routes though. Great Wall and Zeppelin in particular.
Climb Freeborn Man
not done - hopefully will do this now I'm closer to Swanage.
Sub 18minute 5k Done
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Right this year I'm going to get my shit together.
1 - Carried forward from 2012 - the sea arch traverse. If the planets align and we get a decent dry spell it will go.
fail - was out of country in decent weather
2 - get sorted with new house
Yup, kind of got in the way of everything else.
3 - get woody up in new house
fail hopefully in next month
4 - get bouldering fitness back on above mentioned woody
partial - got some back, but at wall and on BM
5 - get to wall once a weekish and get on some routes
partial - been down the wall a fair bit, but mostly bouldering and a few routes.
6 - NYD I tipped the scales at 14 st 1.5, my heaviest yet. Aim to be back down to 13 st by the time clocks change.
fail - closest I got was 13st 10
7 - maybe take on a proper redpoint project for the first time since 2005. If 2 above pans out maybe get on this
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=198382 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=198382) as it will be on the doorstep.
Fail - didn't do a route outside
8 - get on some of the 30 or so FAs I have earmarked for development
Partial - did some, still a load to do
9 - get on some traddy stuff - esp potential new local crag and some west coast spots esp Ardnamurchan
Fail - not one route
108 - yoga at least once every 2 weeks, preferrably weekly.
fail - not been once
10 - surf more. Maybe get an inflatable SUP to cruise around coast (subject to 2 as well)
partial - been in a few times, no SUP though
11 - ski / board more
all relative to previous year, but had some good days in Scotland
12 - sort out shit at work either by fight or flight
hmmmmmmmm
13 - Maybe do Passportes if UKB massive are out again. I will definitely be in Les Gets at that time.
Fail - had some good MTB when out there, but not there at Passportes
14 - Get decent desktop and get better at photo and video editing
Fail at present, but Xmas is only 2 days away.......
a few more than the 2 last year!
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1. Finish my Red Wall Link Up Project Only been on rock twice.
2. Boulder 7c. It'd be nice to do a 7C that doesn't instantly get downgraded too. Ditto.
3. Reacquaint myself with Silverdale after a year of not visiting. Ditto.
4. Build a woody, and more crucially, use it Built and used a few times- I'll get on it more after Christmas.
5. Tick two problems from the last few years Aims For lists Not been out.
6. Run another marathon or two Did Manchester, and the Rivington Ultra Trail. Doing two more UltraTrail 26s next year.
7. Go to Font Tick. Nothing hard but had fun.
8. Do at least twenty new Wainwrights Never got past 12!
9. 7b in Font. No chance.
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100 Working my way through Bleak House still.
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Trad
Solid E2 - not solid but did one or two in canada depending on which grade comparison you check
Some E3 - Seconded some clean in Canada
Sport
Lead 7b - Jam Session at bruixes
solid 6c onsight - all have been second go so pretty close but not really sports climbed since early june
Bouldering
7A - no chance with out a miracle
Specific stuff:
Top out the cheif - Tick Banana peel>granville street>Squamish buttress>butt lite link
The grand Wall - Squamish by best possible style - Was not ready so did not try I did feel better when I heard of tom and petes epic :)
Pebble Wall - Fail dont think I have been on it this year other than pullling on twice poor show really with the amount of time I have spent at almscliff
Flying arête - Ticked Finally
Crucific traverse and low - not really put any effort into this
Climb at gogarth - fail
So to end my year far too much red .. Oh well off to font on friday
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The arrival of my daughter in April affected my climbing and running more than I had anticipated.....
Climbing:
Font 7c - Nothing harder than 7a+
30 new 7s (new to me, not new problems) - Managed 10 before mini-galpinos arrived
Tick the problems on The List - Nope
E5 (Optimistic)- Nope
7c (Doubtful)- Nope
Orion Face Direct- Nope
Running:
Sub 19 5k- Nope. Didn't even run a 5K
Sub 40 10k- Nope. Managed a 48 off the couch not long after the arrival.
Sub 90 half- Nope. Managed a 98 on the back of 4 weeks training so not the end of the world. My wife said I was very satisfying to support as I looked like death
Party Trick:
One arm pull-up (both arms)- Ha ha, not a chance
Despite it looking a total failure:
1. Was going really well pre-daughter and think I can get back to this level reasonably easily. Just need to push on.
2. Ticked 2 new 7as and 2 new 7a+s the day before my wife went in for the induction. Best performing day for me ever.
3. Managed a 7th place finish (in Class) at the Saunders MM off the back of not a lot of training so bodes well for this year's events.
4. Have put up a fingerboard and am actually using it. Just need to not be a fat knacker. (Easier said than done....)
5. The missus has been back in the 1st XI at hockey since the start of the season and been man of the match 3 times so my giving up Saturday's climbing has not been in vain!
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Is that officially "getting your shit together" Chris? ;)
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Redpoint 8a..... lets see what happens!
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Is that officially "getting your shit together" Chris? ;)
Umm, not quite. House is a bit more of a "project" than we anticipated, so a lot out of window!
String of niggling injuries too. What a drag it is getting old.
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Not read the thread.. Should of... But as in times gone by I hit the ablility to climb 7a outside.. Just gets me able to keep on posting here with a modicum of respect....
Can hit 20ft gap jumps on my bike.. Can launch 15 strep ups and step downs.. Not got hospitalised, that's a result.
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Should of
oh what's the point
it is Christmas after all
more to the point - this impressed me
Can hit 20ft gap jumps on my bike.. Can launch 15 strep ups and step downs.. Not got hospitalised, that's a result.
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8a - woulda, shoulda, coulda got Call of Nature if weather and partners hadn't been so fickle this year. Be looking to get it done early and move on to Chimes, Powerplant, Roof Warrior, Raindogs, Statement depending what dries and how many away-days I can wangle.
more E4s, ultimately Flaky Wall & Resurrection
Another 7C, stop just talking about it and give Brad Pit a good go. Revisit Tetris
try to be strong and fit (relatively) rather than just one or the other
couple (or more) of Wales trips
boulder somewhere in Yorkshire other than the cliff (I know, I know, strike me down)
clear the garage and build my board at last
A year plagued by tweeks and niggles, peaked on Jan 10th with Left Hand Man and went steadily downhill from there.
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If you need to a partner to complete those trad aims this summer let me know
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Bouldering
5 x new Font 7as
Done: Dirty Bitch, Ripper - both Baslow, Perrin's Crack SDS - Ysgo, Laser - Rampart, Body Rocker - Ilkley (appreciate there are a few *ahem* "tourist ticks" in there!)
Font 7b
Nope, thought I'd done one with Ripper but turned out it was only 7a+ with the finish I did
Top 10 finish in one of the Leeds indoor bouldering leagues
Done - Boulder Leeds 2012/13 9th place!
Other
2 x gym sessions a week chucking kettlebells around
Done...ish, been pretty good but a month in Sydney on business killed my routine!
3 x meditation sessions a week
Nope. Need to carry that one forward.
Do at least one 16kg Turkish Get Up, both sides
Done quite early in the year, then repeated recently after long layoff on them.
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What a drag it is getting old.
Thanks Mick
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1. The project. Facilitated by the means stated below (to be religiously adhered to)
i) A training plan that incorporates running to stay lean
ii) Continue to eat as healthy and disciplined as I have done for the past month and a half.
iii) Stretch three times a week.
2. Make the most of my time until August in Leeds to exploit prime grit days and tick some classics.
3. Continue to tick through the classic novel collection on the shelf.
3.Work out what I'm going to do with respect to Part II of education. Something might have to give (to be written about).
4. The year we finally get the greyhound.
5. PASS THAT BASTARD DRIVING TEST AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! / Don't be a pussy.
6. Trip to the US with m'lady and get some classic Yosemite bouldering ticks.
Bests to all.
1. FAIL - Living in Leeds hasn't helped but home now. Can't wait to get back on it.
2. TICK - Hard to quantify but did have some ace snow days out on grit with a handful of ticks. Great scene in Yarrrks.
3. TICK - Worked this out very quickly and had probably worked it out before writing this. Offered £12,000 p.a for a job in practice was the nail in the coffin and I'm eternally glad that I set out on my own business quest.
4. FAIL - Not practical since each of us having to move back to our respective homes. Sick of spunking cash on rent and setting up in business means I'm rarely in one place at one time anyway. Soon little doggy. Soon.
5. FAIL - Sitting test Jan/Feb 2014 and chomping at the bit to pass now. Totally marooned without car access.
6. TICK - Was treated to a surprise 6 day NYC pre Christmas trip where best mate from first degree lives. A lifelong desire ticked and had the best week imaginable. Never got the Central Park bouldering tick but being -4 with an icy death wind didn't exactly have me rushing to get my shoes on.
It's been a year of uber hard work in setting up in business. It's been probably the biggest year of my life in this respect in terms of commitment needed and progress made. I feel in a great place mentally and not too shoddy physically. Ever improving and ever content.
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Train really hard all year with minimal injury
Worst injury was an insect bite to the finger in Ceuse, despite training pretty hard in London over the winter, then climbing loads from Leeds and in the south of France.
Lou Ferrino
Only had one session on it, which was mainly spent reworking the sequence. Made the drive to North Wales a few times but realised that I'd much rather go to Twll Mwr instead.
Enchantress
YESSSSSSSSS! And Magician, very unexpectedly (as I can't span between the holds on the original sequence and had work out a sequence using the back of my neck). I seem to be best at a style of bouldering that very nearly doesn't exist, i.e. overhanging quarried slate. It would be so much more convenient if I could climb on grit!
Start sitting on my arse in Parisella's and climb out (i.e. The Wire or Greenheart) (optimistic)
See above. Now I live closer to rock, I'm going to try and keep hard linkup projects to local crags.
Sport 8a+/b
climbed out of a cave in Boffi at 8a+ (Big Bug).
Infinite Gravity
Only got down to Swanage twice, first time the route was totally soaked, second time, 30 foot waves made the approach a bit too dangerous :o Bit gutted as I reckon I'd have had a really good chance on this at the peak of my Euro fitness, but at least it means I still have a reason to get on the best route in the country!
Climb more on slate
Did a lot at Forest Rock, and had some sessions on the Quarryman. Wish there was some slate closer to Bristol!.
Don't go big walling
Major success on this. Closest I came was a 500m bolted 6a slab in the Ariege. Feel like I've improved quite a lot physically from clipping bolts all year and now I want to try something big again to put it to good use!
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What a drag it is getting old.
Thanks Mick
I've done Mother's Little Helper. Hard for the tall! Nibs pissed it.
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1. Finish off Zoo York - only had 1 session on it then got a strained pulley on my LH ring finger
2. Try Jason's Roof - Ticked in a session YYFY
3. Do more Bloc 8A's - Exorcist and Freehang SS
4. Try some 8A+'s - Not really apart from some of the harder links in the cave.
5. Get Stronger fingers!! - Check
6. Attempt some sport climbing - Did Harry tuttle at the G-spot (Fnarr)
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1. complete my 12 week training plan without getting horribly injured or slacking off. tick! Went well, felt strong after, grew some arms for the first time
2. Climb Louis Armstrong. FAIL - But managed 2 recent sessions pissing it in 2 halves several times. Need to keep trying it now. Good progress at least.
3. Climb Red Baron at Shipley. (Standup) FAIL - didn't go back
4. Double body weight deadlift. FAIL - Got up to 135kg weighing 70 but felt too sketchy for my back so had to back off. Could maybe do it with a longer build up and some coaching
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Stop eating loads of shit.
Try to do some more sport routes.
Do the Ace! :wall:
I'm sat at the in laws writing this post and I can't move off the sofa because I've just polished off a load of Quality Streets and sausage rolls, I haven't done the Ace, fuck it.
I did go to France to do some Sport and Multi pitch, Ceuse, Verdon, St Leger, which was nice.
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Targets for 2013
immediate:
Climb my mixed proj on Clogwyn Du. Tick! Lateo, very proud of this.
As many new mixed routes in N.Wales as conditions, ability and time allow. Tick! 6 other new routes, 4 of which are brilliant.
Onsight Cracking Up. Didn't try it.
Climb Anubis. Didn't leave Wales.
Finish the N.Wales lime guidebook and app. Fail, but almost there now!
Keep on developing sick dry-tooling routes in the Crafnant mines and quarries. Tick! The Burner is amazing!
Fit some bouldering in when I can. if winter conditions turn out to be rubbish put effort into a good font 8a. 2 days bouldering all year?
by mid-year:
Sport trip anywhere, ideally new routing Taghia
First F8b
Keep tradding the multitude of classics in N.Wales and try to fit in some trips
My E7/8 proj
by late-year:
Onsight E7
Headpoint an E9 that has protection and hard climbing
Or, move to Canada in Summer never to return.
Everything else = epic fail, severely fucked back leading to surgery in September and no climbing between May - November except 5 days pre-op in August.
On the mend, rehabbing and hungry!
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Well I've never publicly announced my goals before but it will be interesting which goals (if any) I manage to complete by this time next year!
1. CREATE A TRAINING PLAN! FAIL
2. Start an antagonistic exercise routine and complete 3-4 times a week. FAIL
3. After 2 weeks of antagonistics, start addressing poor core/finger strength (pinches/half-crimp first), use training board more often. FAIL
4. Improve Diet, initially snacks and then... everything. Partial pass
5. Climb majority of F7's / 8a's in Cheddar/Wye area (Starting with Academic and Wrist Business whilst bouldering strength is decent). Mainly a fail but I had a good excuse and I managed to climb Wrist Business early in the year
6. Boulder some 7C's, most likely in the Bradford area as I have to do a compulsory 2-3 day trip up to Bradford every month (for Degree). Any recommendations welcome! Tetris on Grit and Rock Atrocity on Limestone. There is a 7C+ 10 minutes drive from work so give that a try long term. Climbed a handful of 7C's but none of the ones listed here due to being on a Euro roadtrip
Oh yeh, finish my bloody degree, decide if I want to stick at teaching or not (holidays - good, being very organised - annoying). FAIL but I've re-enrolled for January
Ended up postponing Uni, quitting my job and going on a Euro roadtrip so many of the goals above were impossible to meet. I'm pleased to have climbed some 7C's on the trip so far and although I have an injury I hope to climb some more on this trip, maybe even something harder by the end.
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Training 8 hours sleep per night- it's become clear to me that this (or lack of it) is the major factor in how well I climb. Got between 7.5 and 8 most nights. Probably only 10 or so nights when I got less than 6.5 and I really felt it! I need my sleep to climb and train effectively for sure.
Weekly fingerboard use- if I apply myself to training my fingers as much as I applied myself to my core last year I can see good results I reckon. Most of the year I was climbing despite finger injuries I was ignoring so finger training was out. Only in the autumn did I rest enough to fix them and I saw big gains by doing this and finally sticking to my fingerboard plan. Not going to kid myself about finger tweaks from now on.
Keeping a training diary and stretching every day were targets from last year that I maintained 'til October- this year I want to keep them going right the way through. Tick!
Trad E2. Should surely be a matter of simply tying in and climbing one. So in that case, E3 as well. Didn't try any E2s, let alone E3s. A grad total of 3 E-points all year. ::)
Climb at at least one new trad area. Gogarth would be good. Didn't go to any trad areas I hadn't been to before. Barely did any trad.
Sport 7b. Did four 7as and close but no cigar on 7a+. Tried some 7bs but didn't have more than one session on any. Something Stupid at Malham seems a good bet- I'd love to do Obsession as well, considering crimping is my biggest weakness this might be optimistic, but aim high etc. Went to Malham twice but didn't try either of these routes.
Venue-wise I'd like to go to Kilnsey, Portland and Chee Dale- all places I'm ashamed to admit I've never climbed.
Bouldering 7B might be optimistic but fuck it. Three 7As, worked on plenty of harder problems but no success yet.
I'm determined to go back to the US- I met people who are up for climbing with me over there in many places, enough to go for months. Whether I'll manage that I don't know but even another two weeks in the Red would be ace. Had three amazing weeks back in the Red, from which my physical and metal climbing games have improved dramatically.
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Sport:
First 7b -
Butterfly Collector - Ruthin (Was on this at the weekend, hopefully get ticked this Sunday)
Walking With Barrance - Dinbren
Sunny Side Up Mix - Craig Arthur
Ended up ticking 7 7b's! Happy days!
Try something harder - possibly a 7b+ or 7c that looks inspiring. Tick! Did my first 7b+
On-sight a 7a - Few possibilities around maybe something at Pinfold or The Marsh Flower at Craig Arthur. Fail - Didn't really try on-sighting any, only did a handful in that grade most within a couple of goes.
Bouldering:
More V6's and a first V7. Middle Undercut V7 at Hope Mnt. Did 2 7A's this year but barely bouldered. V7 still seems some way off!
Trip to Font in October - Get some good ticks and make a video Trip to Font went ahead. Didn't climb well at all, enjoyed being there with the family though!
Trad:
Get some routes of any grade in. Don't trad climb enough. Headpoint something hard this year. Possibly E6/E7. . . Shoot To Thrill at Pinfold? Trad was a massive fail, just can't get psyched for it. Did one route a 3 star E2 5c at Worlds End.
Fingerboard:
Carry on with Repeater workout and mix it up every 6 weeks. Didn't mix up repeaters but did loads of fingerboarding. Weighted hangs etc. I don't think finger strength is my limiting factor.
Everything Else:
Finish bolting and climb my project. Tick! Ended up being a cool 7b and has had about 10 repeats.
Head to some new areas - Malham, Kilnsey, Chee Dale. Fail. Had it all planned to head to Malham/Kilnsey for my Birthday in July but the weather was terrible so had to call it off.
Climb more on the Orme. Tick! Now my favorite place. Did some great Routes. String of Pearls (6b+), Under the Boardwalk (6c), Pink Pinky (7a), Face Race (7a+) and Axle Attack (7a+)
Boulder as well as Sport in the summer instead of sacking off bouldering altogether like last year. Massive fail. Didn't boulder at all in the summer! Had a great sport season though!
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I didn't post any goal for 2013, because last year at this moment climbing was my enemy, something useless, stupid and selfish. Work and relationship were a mess and I could not find a way.
I found my aims while pursueing them, in an unexpected way.
Change my life from scratch.
Job, town, relationships, study, climbing also.
So, looking back in hindsight, everything now seems doable - done, in fact - but at that moment I didn't even know where to start from.
I entered a 1st level degree Master in Criminology.
I went back into legal practice.
I dropped my job in Florence, found another one in Siena and stopped commuting.
I passed a Spanish exam that can lead me to be a lawyer in Spain and work there.
I took my master.
I met some girls and now am dating one for six months.
This could easily sound as presumptuous and blowing my trumpet, and it is, to some extent, but it's also to remind me how hard it's been and how rewarding. Last december I had nothing or so it seemed, now I have something.
I can even enjoy some climbing, once in a while.
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I didn't post any goal for 2013, because last year at this moment climbing was my enemy, something useless, stupid and selfish. Work and relationship were a mess and I could not find a way.
I found my aims while pursueing them, in an unexpected way.
Change my life from scratch.
Job, town, relationships, study, climbing also.
So, looking back in hindsight, everything now seems doable - done, in fact - but at that moment I didn't even know where to start from.
I entered a 1st level degree Master in Criminology.
I went back into legal practice.
I dropped my job in Florence, found another one in Siena and stopped commuting.
I passed a Spanish exam that can lead me to be a lawyer in Spain and work there.
I took my master.
I met some girls and now am dating one for six months.
This could easily sound as presumptuous and blowing my trumpet, and it is, to some extent, but it's also to remind me how hard it's been and how rewarding. Last december I had nothing or so it seemed, now I have something.
I can even enjoy some climbing, once in a while.
To to hear your're on track now. A definite success Nibs!
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Mine are really a repeat of last year's...
Onsight E4 consistently. Hardly got on any last year, and chose bad ones when I did. This also involves rocking up to the crag with routes in mind and being motivated to go for it. Reasonable, didn't get on many though. Got a couple of big ticks I'd wanted.
Onsight a couple of proper E5s. Only tried one, had a decent go, but took a ride from the finishing moves.
Get on a Peak 8a that I'm motivated to do. E.g. Unleashing. Got on a few, know what sort of work would be needed to get me up them now and it definitely felt feasible.
Flash 7b. Only tried to flash a couple, got both second go, one of which I really should have nailed!
3 Font 7a+ and 1 7B. Ticked the 7A+ ones, progress there, close on 7B, but no cigar. I think this and 8a will require the same training though, since my bouldering strength is what has held me back on the 8a routes I've been on.
Use fingerboard at least twice a week over the winter.
Money and time dependent it would be good to get some big routes done in Yosemite/Dolomites/Verdon or similar, at the expense of the other goals, but we'll see! Fail, didn't climb abroad this year. Next year's a goer though!
Doesn't look like I achieved a lot there, but I actually had a great year's climbing, and ticked loads of things I've wanted to do for a long time, as well as making definite gains in other areas. Goal for next year: Some big rock routes in alps/similar, Body Machine, and get back to High Tor.
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eatswood Traverse After a couple of near misses (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JhVe2gNCgE) YYFY on 20th Feb
Lady Big Claque Font was a washout at Easter so didn't even get on it
Killerweed Been working on the Perverse Reverse start footless - if I can get rid of corns on top of foot then this should go easier with toe hooks or heel toe
Austrian Oak From Mar-start May had 13 sessions and no progress on last year. Working on getting stronger for it in the Autumn
Anger Management Good progress on this currently, shame about heat
Do the moves on Mecca Not even sure why I put this up as an aim
Re-bolt some Peak routes starting with Tin Of Placed 5 Bolts at Tor so far
Onsight a 7c Booked to go to Kalymnos with son for a week in October so will try this then
10,000 8a nu points Again, depends on how Kalymnos goes
2 new routes I've got my eye on One down (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22470.0.html), one to go
One arm an edge Started training for this again. Currently need +5kg on right on BM slot
No further aims achieved in second half of year but have ended up a notch stronger I think. Straightened out Indecent mid August (no change in grade) then had a lovely couple of weeks at the end of August in a chalet in Vallouise with the family and did quite a lot of sport but didn't have the fitness to do anything harder than flash 7b. Spent most of the Autumn either trying or training for the Oak which unfortunately was mainly wet. Tommy redpointed Seventh Aardvark Then had an amazing week in Kalymnos (the highlight being a day in Sikati Cave) with Tom but didnt feel fit enough to throw myself at a 7c but did onsight some amazing routes including a couple of 7b+'s with Tommy getting his 7a onsights in then a 7a+ on the last day.
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I immediately regret writing this as normally my plans are massively over ambitious. In an attempt to manage my expectations I've kept it as vague as possible:
i. Stop wasting my time on anything other than inspiring problems
More or less successful. Certainly better venue / problem choice than previous years.
ii. Climb more stuff outside the peak
Trips to Yorkshire, Northumberland and Wales. While not as extensive a list as it could be, again better than previous years
iii. Reiver (see aims i & ii.)
Boom! Bank Holiday ground up tick in a session
iv. Font 7C+ (must meet criteria of aim no. i)
Did Heaven in your Hands, not convinced it's 7c+ but to be honest I wanted to climb this regardless of the grade. Got close on a couple of other 7C+s, hopefully one for 2014.
v. Finish my on - off 4 year affair with Arch Enemies (ideally this would be completed tops off for power style in front of a bunch of hot female tourists who all want to sleep with me afterwards)
Fail. Got on it but fell off the penultimate move and then couldn't find willing belayers. 2014 for sure.
vi. Be less shallow (see aim no. v)
It seems publicly stating my goals has either galvanised me into action or I should have been more ambitious :-\
Probably my best year for routes & bouldering. Achieved a few things that I probably thought were too ambitious at the start of the year. Maybe I need to raise the bar for 2014.
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My 2012 was pretty shite in terms of bulk climbing. 48 logged climbs.. :chair: I did however manage to climb my hardest boulder and spend a month and a bit in the Alps. So more of that please and over a hundred climbs this time.
Smashed it.
183 logged climbs this year. Finally got round to climbing the big 3 at Almscliff in a day and owning a board in the living room has really started to show through my bouldering. Flashed first 7a+ recently and starting to get some mileage around 7b mark. Great to do Ben's groove at Caley too, when I first saw it I said to myself that one day when I became good I would climb it. My perception of 'good' has however since changed
New places this year: Climbed a good week in Joshua Tree on a trip to the States. Really liked the feel of the place, the climbing isn't world class but the setting is great. Beer, camping and fires with more stars than i've ever seen. Getting up at dawn to climb sharp cracks with random Americans. Loved it. Then 6 weeks in Ceuse. Speaks for itself, the climbing is class and I don't even like sport climbing. Managed 7b (at last).
A bit gutted that I didn't manage the bulb 7c+. I tried it last year a bit but got ultimately nowhere. These past 2 months i've felt so bloody close to doing it, just haven't in the last 5 sessions. Man up for 2014, V10 will be mine!
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Same aim as Last Year.
Get up the Beast.
All holds found, moves held, and Psyche Found, all I need to do now is Start Training..
...Off to do some Press Ups!
Tick. Now officially projectless, and looking forward to ticking some classics.... Well maybe I'll allow myself some new boulders...
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Kick a goose in the scrot'
How did this go Ducko?
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Consolidate at 7C. Snatch and Great White should help this, I just need to hold onto jugs....
Did Snatch,good, got really close to great white at various stages but didnt do it, havent been on it recently, roll over for 2014. Did various other 7C's
Get my first 7C+ and do more of the grade (Rock Atrocity wobbly block, lou ferrino I'm most keen for) Need suggestions for good bloc style 7C+'s in Wales and ze peak.
hmm, maybe snatch is 7C+, Highline gets it in the guide but its obviously not, tried western eyes, feels alright but not really close. lowrider is hard and didnt go to the other two.
Trad.... hhmm... Nah.
success. less than 10 trad routes all year
Do more highballing! Art nouveau, Tierdrop, Narcissus, Chip Shop Brawl, Shine On (With snow)
Flashed tierdrop, did chip shop twice, didnt like Shine On and havent been to Art Nouveau, Flashed Power of the Darkside with loads of pads and that was good
Sport.... hhmmm.... maybe, do something respectable at a crag I like or a route I actually enjoy or even just try to redpoint something.
3 redpoints on Rubicon later and sport 7a still evades me. I am shit
Big aim: Font 8A.... Joker, Diesel Power, Pools of Bethasda (8A+ but looks amazing), Careless Torque ::)
Fail, Can barely get my foot up on the joker, havent tried the other three,close to westworld but its 7C+, Delayed Devotion was tried briefly with the conclusion that its hard.
Actually do some training to complete the last aim.
No real training
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goals:
-finish off a bunch of stuff i should have done this year (v crimps, transformer lh, spam, severus snape, sabotage, astro nave- optionally) not really done any of these other than transformer, so hard to get psyched on local stuff, that needs to change
-consistently 7C in a session although they felt well soft doing last day in paradise and winnie second go in the rocklands puts this as a success
-8A without a doubt attempt some harder stuff, 8A+, 8B... done nutsa but sadly not even tried anything harder
-keep with the board definitely the source of success this year
-get to ratho every so often and get better at routes (better not stronger) this was a stupid goal...
-stretch a lot more and stay as injury free as possible stretching has been good (can finally touch my toes :great: but the last 2-3 months have been far too injury ridden must be more careful
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Lots of big maybes.
- Climb harder on grit, ie E9. Success on this front for sure.
- Try and flash masters edge. No attempt as of yet, maybe this winter, doubtful
- 7C+ or maybe even 8A boulders. Hit a wall with bouldering, have to train to get better and therefore have not. Done plenty of 7c's mind.
- Climb 8a+ sport at home. very nearly, robbed by oppressive heat then wetness.
- Get fit and climb 8a sport abroad this spring/autumn. Success, did two 8as in sella.
- Go to the Mournes and try some of the underdevloped classics. This year hopefully.
- Get to Northumberland and other UK areas I've never been to. Went to wales a few times and lulworth, no northumberland though.
- Decide on Uni. Sorted and happy in sheffield.
A good year in trad terms! Sport and bouldering felt too much like hard work, which is something to be worked on.
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Font 7b by the end of the year sounds good and is more than attainable.. Working on it. Made plenty of progress...
Boulder and DWS developing... Shit loads around here. Got some good bouldering being developed. DWS will have to wait until it gets abit warmer but have got some walls in mind.
Get down to the Grampians this winter too. Check! Going down there in 2 weeks for a week.... Can't fucking wait...
Ugh. Had a big 2 month break from climbing right in the middle of winter. Fucked if I know why, it just happened and I only got on rock for a day a month... V8 aint gonna happen this year unless some miracle happens... Lets try for V7..
Developing... Plenty of development going on. Put up about 30 problems so far at various crags with a shit-tonne of projects. Just getting warm enough for DWS, was out last week looking for walls, access, approaches etc. Hopefully get on a couple tomorrow.
Grampians. Check. Had a good first week there. Although I told myself not to just rush at everything because I'll be back alot... Of course, I just hit everything... Nearly got a couple of V7s, close to a V8 and 1 move off a V9... Awesome lowball compression up a prow. All I had to do was move my left foot 12 inches up the prow and I would've had it... Pretty pissed by that but I did start trying it on my 4th day on, then got back on it on my last. No rest days either dumbass.
Entered in the next round of the NSW State bouldering comp aswell. As long as I don't do too shit in that... I'm more interested in the next day, putting up new problems in a new area just outside Canberra.
So end of Oct, I was warming up and I managed to tear my A4 pulley... So V8 was obviously a bust. Haven't tried anything harder than V5 since...
Plenty of development happened. Ended up putting up about 55 new problems and discovered 6 new areas. Done a couple of easy dws routes, found a wicked hard new line. Can never bring myself to try anything else...
Grampians was pretty good. See above...
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get the board back out of calums garage and build it in the cellar. FAIL
Then train like a demon and lose a load of weight and become a beast. FAIL - fatter and weaker than ever
Also climb in the 7's again Did 1
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1. Do the Knock, Nosferatu, No More Excuses and Tracka'thacat (dont deck on wings)
Knock and Nosferatu. Didn't go to Roaches skyline and too many excuses
1a. Boulder 7b - Monochrome, My Apple, PowerHumps
not really bouldered
2. 7c sport RP - Obsene Gesture/Toilet, New Dawn, Let the tripe increase etc
Obscene Gesture, let the tripe increase felt way hard in comparison
3. Onsight a mega 7a/+ home or abroad
Onsighted Bueno Bueno in Siurana
4. Trad E3/4 - Memory Lane, Adjudicator Wall, Flaky Wall, Pembroke
Did wee doris and a good haul of E3's at High Tor, retreated from the start of flaky, just couldn't get my head around it. Big whipper off Darius which was disappointing but memorable
5. Get to Pembroke and Catalunya
tick on both
6. Get out of flat into house
moving into new flat and wheels in motion on property number one
7. Develop girlfriend holiday into DWS trip to Mallorca (wheels in motion)
went with gf, terrible hotel package deal but got a few routes in at cala barques
8. Move out of photograhic punterdom and make longer/better videos throughout year
This is going well, got a project that should be quite funny. Photos are coming along but still more machine than man
9. If it rains for another month scrap all the above and leave the sinking kingdom
it was a bloody good summer, first time in the alps and did a north face, really happy with 2013
feel busier than ever recently but if I can keep spinning plates well enough 2014 will be a vintage year.
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Bouldering:
Consolidate at 7b
Pretty happy that I've done this. About 7/8 problems of 7B or above this year. More just a case of getting out and on stuff in good connies.
Do a 7b+
Yep! Underhand and The Storm.
Maybe do a 7c?!
Did The Keel today! The year ain't over till it's over!
Trad:
At least attempt to do some E3s and E4s.
Did a few bits and pieces. Nothing very much trad this year but when i did get out I did the stuff I wanted to do so am happy with that.
If not that then at least feel like I'm reaching my potential!
Yeah close enough.
Get out more
Hmmmmmm.
Fiddle:
Go to the session more
Play Cooley's Reel at the session without falling off the back
Almost!
Life:
Buy house
More reading, less TV
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More V6's and a first V7. Middle Undercut V7 at Hope Mnt. Did 2 7A's this year but barely bouldered. V7 still seems some way off!
Think I spoke to soon on this one! Did my first V7 today and another V6!
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Overall I'm pretty happy with 2013. Pushed my sport grade from 7c+ to 8a+ and got a bit more mileage in the high 7's. First 7b onsight and first 7c flash. Because of concentrating on sport, trad and bouldering goals fell a bit by the wayside. Maybe the goals I set were a bit broad and hence unrealistic. Roll on 2014!
- Have a good trip to Ceuse in July - drag myself up an 8a (hopefully Carte Blanche) and get some good 7's done (Berlin, Super Mickey, Lapinerie all in mind) Had a great trip, didn't try any 8a's but did a lot of low to mid 7's. Onsighted lots of 7a & 7a+, and did first 7b onsight (2001 - L'odyssée du Grimpeur). Surprised myself by doing Vagabond (7c) after one quick warm up play, this isn't usually my style. Gonna give myself the green light on this one.
- Train PE properly and get route fit ahead of aforementioned trip tick
- Get out lots locally at weekends Did ok at this, but a lot of weekends seemed to be taken up with other things.
- Make the effort to get out after work in the summer Again, did ok with some good after work sessions at Ban-y-gor and Trym, but could have done better.
- Get lots of mileage at 7b to 7c+ This year 5 7b+ (nearly all 1st RP), 2 7c's (1 flashed, 1 in a 1 hour session) and 1 7c+ (in a 2 hour session). So getting them done quick, but not getting on enough. Feel reasonably confident at this grade so going for the yellow on this.
- Finish off Liquid Crystal once it's dry again (after falling off last move in October) First 8a YYFY! Did this in May in shitty humid conditions, very happy. Superceded this and unexpectedly managed my first (soft) 8a+ in October (Masada at Witches Point). Brilliant route.
- Get down to Cornish granite at least a couple of times Once in February, basically got spanked.
- Get to Pembroke at least a few times and try harder 1 weekend in September, didn't get on anything hard (to be fair it was misty / wet). Not done much trad this year.
- Do some bouldering, would be nice to tick 7B Barely any (outdoor) bouldering, though had a really good week in font in October where I did a few 7A's and came very close on 2 7B+'s.
- Try and get rid off / avoid niggling finger injuries Hmm, no major issues but have had niggles over the last few months since switching training back from routes to bouldering. Up until about August (route training) fingers were fine.
Specific local routes I'd like to at least get on:
Lurking Sear (Wintours) Did in a short session
Academic (Avon) Gone to have a look at a couple of times but has been soaking. Will get on this soon.
Featherless Biped (Avon) Nope
Arms Race (Avon) Nope
Right-Hand Man (Cheddar) Nope
Shock of the New (Cheddar) Nope
Driller Killer (Cheddar) Nope
Follow the Slick Red Road (Cheddar) Nope
Bird of Paradise (Cheddar) Nope
Manchmals (Cheddar) Tried, did the first half ok but didn't like the top part much. May come back to.
House Burning Down (Cheddar) Tick
Berlin (Dinas) Still not been here
H1N1 (Dinas) Still not been here
Empire (Ansteys) Still not been here
Cider Soak (Ansteys) Still not been here
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1. First visit to Dartmoor for a very long time booked for May. Just hoping for good weather. Then onto Dorset.
2. Transfer plastic gains into real climbing gains.
3. Climb outside more.
4. Finally move flat and actually have an internal wall to hang a fingerboard on. Oh, and some space to put stuff in too. And maybe even a doorway to put a pull-up bar in.
and mainly
5. Don't get too injured.
1. No, don't mix family holidays and climbing, kids!
2. No, Plastic grade increasing, outdoor grade stagnating. Back problems haven't helped but push to much outside, but have done a lot of easy circuits which has been fun.
3. No, Same as, plus moving house, crap weather etc, etc.
4. Big Yes. Moved, nearly finished the decor. Even use the BM occasionally.
5. Another Big Yes, the first year since I restarted that I haven't spent 3 months injured and then restarted from zero. Some aches and pains that I'm not going to moan about.
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Big numbers:
9a Didn't try one, except for ruining Pilgrimage
8b onsight/flash Shoulda, coulda, woulda
Specifics:
AbyssDidn't go there, didn't want to take the risk of wetness after a bad spring/summer for France
Pilgrimage Say my name bitches
Evolution Is this the hardest route in the world? Yes.
Kaabah Enjoyed this a lot
True North Complete with funky toe-hook trickery for the crux
Volume:
10 8c (all time) 8
12 8b+ (all time) 11
20 8b (all time) yuh huh
50 8s onsight/flash (all time) 55. An RRG trip consisting almost entirely of onsighting and flashing sorted this out nicely at the expense of RP mileage
5 8a+ or harder onsights (all time) +muthafuckin1 on the above. Still too many shoulda/coulda/wouldas though
8A+ that's actually a boulder Still weak
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1. 109 7a's on the bolts. Barney Rubble - Torbryan (is this really 7a+? Did it second go so it is probably soft! Promising start and then the year disappeared...
2. Klondike, Pocket City and Solid Gold at Pen Trwyn. Been but not tried
3. The Big Groove and Rat Race on Main Cliff. Not been
4. Red Wall on Red Wall. Not been
5. Something easy at the easy end of North Stack Wall. Not been
6. Go to Pembroke at least once (no trips this year) and do another route in the leap. (Maybe Bloody Sunday if I have a cup of MTFU). Hooray. Pembroke's great! Sat on a wire low down on Bloody Sunday, but got on with it after that!
7. Go to Cornwall (Bosigran and Sharpnose are pre-requisites). Taking a pass for this, didn't go to Sharpnose or Bosigran because I have a stupid dog, but I did have a lovely trip!
8. Climb in the Pass a bit more. Had a nice little trip there for a few days. It's nice when the weather's good innit.
9. Get on Laurin or Flaky Wall at High Tor. Not been
10.Something on Craig Arthur. Maybe Manikins of Horror.
Looks like if I'd actually made the effort I'd have got a bit more done! Enjoyed my climbing when I did it but never seemed to be psyched enough to get out much. I think a bit of focus is needed this year.
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Just remembered I'd actually done this last year, so....
Arrive in Font in Feb uninjured - Tick! Although I wasn't as fit as I'd have liked as I got injured in the run up which hampered my training a bit.
Get down below 14 stone and remain under 14 stone - Mostly a tick! I do seem to be all over the place weight wise but generally speaking I'm under 14 most of the time...
Boulder on grit more - Definite tick! Hardly climbed on anything else.
Get local projects done before Andy Popp - Well, I got the one thing I wanted to do done before Andy but mainly cos he let me have it :) Tick?
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Pray for a dry 2013
Strap my ball bag on and climb an E6 grit route this winter.
Continue to develope and train hard on my 45 and barrel.
Clip my way up an 8a in the summer.
Sail the 7c's
Well I climbed 'Art Nouveau' (not really E6 tho is it!?) Highball 7B+ above pads.
I trained hard and apart from a tendon tweak early summer ive stayed injury free.
Hardest ascent of the year was 'Vitruvian Man' 7C in half a dozen goes over 20 minutes.
Due to summer cod finger I didnt get on an f8a, instead i put lots of mileage in on routes i could do in a session (up to f7a+)
Really enjoyed a few DWS trips this year, well out of my comfort zone!
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Jan/Feb - produce some cold, crisp days perfect for the grit
Spring - lots of long dry spells to dry the limestone nicely
Summer - stable temps so the Tor (and cornice, rubicon, Malham, Kilnsey etc) isn't condensed to fuck every morning combined with some pleasant breezy days for grit routers to maybe explore the Moors with their new guides
Autumn - long and lingering with the limestone season extending into a cold but not freezing November to ensure good nick for maximum sendage potential
Nov/Dec - some nice cold snaps for early grit season motivation
A resonably successful year for The Weather compared to last year!
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Just rediscovered this. Thought I should post up. Resurecting skills...
1. Get loads of milage in on ice -Plenty done in canada, nothing too hard, but loved it
2. Climb some mental looking mixed stuff -All on TR
3. Dont get totally weak - Still ticking over at V7
4. Get the local 8A, properly consolidate at 7B and bag some 7C Did some 7B, nothing harder.
5. Go to India - Not done
6. Climb some desert towers and get scared -Did a few towers. Had to bail early. Keen for a rematch!
7. Learn to Ski -Skied for 1 day. Was mint. One for when I get a job though....
8. Learn how to climb cracks -Feel much more confident on cracks now, shit at off widths still, but rest have come along
9. Dont waste time not doing cool shit - Did ok I think!
10. Dont get eaten by a bear or shot - Win
11. climb some hard trad - Did a few E5s
12. Go DWS somewhere warm - MAjoraca!
13. Maybe get a proper job at the end - Got a (not proper) job, but got on an MSc now anyway
14. Do some alpine stuff - Not done, but planes are booked.
15. Be around for will so he doesnt feel lonely - Guess will will have to judge that.