[Fiend]

Nice one, will be looking forward to hearing how that goes.

[Adam Lincoln]

Routes/Trad

Devistation Generation - Dumbuck
Unjustified - Malham
Nandralone - Cambusbaron
Requiem - Dumbarton

Bouldering
La Sabateur - Dumbarton
Sabotaged - Dumbarton
Born Lippy - Bowden
Working Class - Bowden


Lots of trips to North west Scotland

Finish off van conversion

[Stewart]

Routes/Trad

Requiem - Dumbarton

 

[lukeyboy]

Routes/Trad

Requiem - Dumbarton

 

Are you confusing this with Rhapsody perhaps....?

[Stewart]

Routes/Trad

Requiem - Dumbarton

 

Are you confusing this with Rhapsody perhaps....?

No, there is still the prospect of some massive airtime on requiem as Mr Atkinson can no doubt testify. I'll quite possibly be bumbling about on some mid grade boulder problems underneath so will look forward to seeing Adam have a go on it. Not been onsighted yet I understand 

[JohnM]

How do you aim to approach Requiem Adam, ground-up or top rope inspection?  I have always wanted to try this route although lack of proximity may make it a pipe dream!

[willackers]

Routes/Trad

Requiem - Dumbarton

 

Are you confusing this with Rhapsody perhaps....?

No, there is still the prospect of some massive airtime on requiem as Mr Atkinson can no doubt testify. I'll quite possibly be bumbling about on some mid grade boulder problems underneath so will look forward to seeing Adam have a go on it. Not been onsighted yet I understand 

You only get massive airtime if you use the wrong cam 

Not been on-sighted yet but much harder and more dangerous routes have. If it was in Wales, The Peak or The Lakes I reckon it definitely would have.

Good luck on it, don't top rope it either! 

[Adam Lincoln]

How do you aim to approach Requiem Adam, ground-up or top rope inspection?  I have always wanted to try this route although lack of proximity may make it a pipe dream!

I won't be able to dedicate enough visits to warrant a true ground up attempt, so going to ab it and have a good old look. Try a few moves here and there. Then try it.

[SA Chris]

At least have one shotty at the onsight!

[Adam Lincoln]

At least have one shotty at the onsight!

Blew the onsight onsighting the 7a approach route 

[SA Chris]

D'oh!

[Adam Lincoln]

At least have one shotty at the onsight!

Blew the onsight onsighting the 7a approach route 

Incidentally Will, how did you get to the crack proper each time. Did you bother with the 7a every time? This always put me off trying the GU!

[willackers]

The slab isn't part of Requiem.

It's piss once you get it wired though, and it's a classic.

[Adam Lincoln]

The slab isn't part of Requiem.

It's piss once you get it wired though, and it's a classic.

So how did you get to Requiem each time? I can't picture a scramble up?

[willackers]

Just used the 7a as part of my warm up. It's a great route.

There's a 6c sport route or an E3 you can go up but you might as well do Persistance, it's easy and very good.

[willackers]

How do you aim to approach Requiem Adam, ground-up or top rope inspection?  I have always wanted to try this route although lack of proximity may make it a pipe dream!

I won't be able to dedicate enough visits to warrant a true ground up attempt, so going to ab it and have a good old look. Try a few moves here and there. Then try it.

It's all about getting a sequence for the top of the crack, that's the only really hard climbing on it. The top is steep and quite tricky but nowhere near as hard as the last section of the crack. If I'd have top roped it I reckon I'd have sent it pretty quickly. It was fucking scary the first time I reached the legde, you feel relitively safe climbing the crack, but when you're on that headwall climbing above those 2 wires it's a different story, especially when you don't know what's coming and there isn't any chalk anywhere. Great fun

[Adam Lincoln]

How do you aim to approach Requiem Adam, ground-up or top rope inspection?  I have always wanted to try this route although lack of proximity may make it a pipe dream!

I won't be able to dedicate enough visits to warrant a true ground up attempt, so going to ab it and have a good old look. Try a few moves here and there. Then try it.

It's all about getting a sequence for the top of the crack, that's the only really hard climbing on it. The top is steep and quite tricky but nowhere near as hard as the last section of the crack. If I'd have top roped it I reckon I'd have sent it pretty quickly. It was fucking scary the first time I reached the legde, you feel relitively safe climbing the crack, but when you're on that headwall climbing above those 2 wires it's a different story, especially when you don't know what's coming and there isn't any chalk anywhere. Great fun

Cheers Will!

[Fiend]

Persistence is 7a+ and meant to be solid at that grade, it even shut down "willackers" onsight

The 6c is 6c+ too! good route tho.

[Adam Lincoln]

Persistence is 7a+ and meant to be solid at that grade, it even shut down "willackers" onsight

I onsighted it, but was just asking about other ways up.

[willackers]

Persistence is 7a+ and meant to be solid at that grade, it even shut down "willackers" onsight

That's really surprising considering how good I am at sport climbing 

It's 7a+, once you have a sequence it is very steady for 7a+

[SA Chris]

Right this year I'm going to get my shit together.

1 - Carried forward from 2012 - the sea arch traverse. If the planets align and we get a decent dry spell it will go.
2 - get sorted with new house
3 - get woody up in new house
4 - get bouldering fitness back on above mentioned woody
5 - get to wall once a weekish and get on some routes
6 - NYD I tipped the scales at 14 st 1.5, my heaviest yet. Aim to be back down to 13 st by the time clocks change.
7 - maybe take on a proper redpoint project for the first time since 2005. If 2 above pans out maybe get on this
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=198382 as it will be on the doorstep.
8 - get on some of the 30 or so FAs I have earmarked for development
9 - get on some traddy stuff - esp potential new local crag and some west coast spots esp Ardnamurchan108 - yoga at least once every 2 weeks, preferrably weekly.
10 - surf more. Maybe get an inflatable SUP to cruise around coast (subject to 2 as well)
11 - ski / board more
12 - sort out shit at work either by fight or flight
13 - Maybe do Passportes if UKB massive are out again. I will definitely be in Les Gets at that time.
14 - Get decent desktop and get better at photo and video editing

a few more than the 2 last year!

Looks like #1 is ticked, bar any slipups. Double garage - woody build commences end March!

#13 is down the pan though; couldn't make dates work as family are over from Oz, but will be in Les Gets 3 to 15 July if anoone is out there - flights booked, first hol outside UK in 4 years!

[andy_e]

You mean 2, shirley? Good news!

[SA Chris]

Balls yes. 10 mins walk from Boltsheugh. 20 to Craig Stirling.

[JackAus]

Font 7b by the end of the year sounds good and is more than attainable..
Boulder and DWS developing... Shit loads around here.
Get down to the Grampians this winter too.

[rich d]

Had a try on beachball early this morning in brilliant connies. It's now moved to a long term goal, I was fucking miles off!