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Aims for 2013 (Read 84735 times)

peewee

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#175 Re: Aims for 2013
June 19, 2013, 12:25:29 am
Targets:

1. Finish off Zoo York - haven't got back on it due to finger injury.
2. Try Jason's Roof - Ticked in a session YYFY
3. Do more Bloc 8A's - Tried a few
4. Try some 8A+'s
5. Get Stronger fingers!! - No specific training but getting stronger.
6. Attempt some sport climbing - Managed a short 3 bolt 7a when recovering from a op.

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#176 Re: Aims for 2013
June 29, 2013, 11:07:29 am
Half-time score:

Pfalz. - no, but possibility of a trip over summer

Berdorf. - no, but possibility of a trip over summer

Lewis. - no, but have a keen partner lined up for the next month and two possible week windows IF the weather dries out

Climb some challenging routes at Glen Nevis, Creag Dubh, and Ullapool area. - no, did a tiny bit around Ullapool and then my climbing randomly went to shit

Keep active in general. - yes, have kept going despite demoralising punterdom

Wow. Given I had a great start to the year, that's pretty fucking bollox. Goals FAIL. No idea what happened around May, I just suddenly got shit after the best bouldering -> sport -> trad  start to a year ever. Still there are chances of getting away, and I am pushing hard and training to try to get my confidence / competence back.


Will Hunt

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#177 Re: Aims for 2013
July 16, 2013, 07:41:24 pm
The previous lists:
Aims for 2008
Aims for 2009
Aims for 2010
Aims for 2011
Aims for 2012

Let's be having them:

Bouldering:
Consolidate at 7b
Do a 7b+
Maybe do a 7c?!

Trad:
At least attempt to do some E3s and E4s.
If not that then at least feel like I'm reaching my potential!
Get out more

Fiddle:
Go to the session more
Play Cooley's Reel at the session without falling off the back
Last week I "got the moves" on this one. Just need to "link it" now.  :-\

Life:
Buy house
More reading, less TV

shark

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#178 Re: Aims for 2013
July 16, 2013, 09:01:10 pm
eatswood Traverse After a couple of near misses YYFY on 20th Feb
Lady Big Claque Font was a washout at Easter so didn't even get on it
Killerweed Been working on the Perverse Reverse start footless - if I can get rid of corns on top of foot then this should go easier with toe hooks or heel toe
Austrian Oak From Mar-start May had 13 sessions and no progress on last year. Working on getting stronger for it in the Autumn
Anger Management Good progress on this currently, shame about heat
Do the moves on Mecca Not even sure why I put this up as an aim
Re-bolt some Peak routes starting with Tin Of Placed 5 Bolts at Tor so far
Onsight a 7c Booked to go to Kalymnos with son for a week in October so will try this then
10,000 8a nu points Again, depends on how Kalymnos goes
2 new routes I've got my eye on One down, one to go
One arm an edge Started training for this again. Currently need +5kg on right on BM slot

Footwork

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#179 Re: Aims for 2013
July 16, 2013, 09:17:21 pm
Quote
My 2012 was pretty shite in terms of bulk climbing. 48 logged climbs..  :chair: I did however manage to climb my hardest boulder and spend a month and a bit in the Alps. So more of that please and over a hundred climbs this time.

Done over 100 climbs so far, lets get another 100 in!

Managed to go climbing in Joshua Tree and Céüse for the first time, amazing.

Did the Keel last year. Ticked blockbuster so far, would like to get the bulb this year.

Got a new best sport climbing RP, Flash and O/S grade

Happy days but can do better.

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#180 Re: Aims for 2013
July 16, 2013, 10:44:11 pm
my goal is to get in 10-15 hours of moderate to high volume climbing a week, in as varied environments as possible, with motivated partners and friends that i can get energy off of and give energy back.

Wil

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#181 Re: Aims for 2013
July 22, 2013, 12:30:37 pm
Onsight E4 consistently. Hardly got on any last year, and chose bad ones when I did. This also involves rocking up to the crag with routes in mind and being motivated to go for it. Not totally consistent, but have at least got on some and success rate getting better.
Onsight a couple of proper E5s. Not tried yet.

Get on a Peak 8a that I'm motivated to do. E.g. Unleashing. Got on Unleashing, ticking it is another matter, but keen for more.
Flash 7b. Frustratingly close at Pen Trwyn (slightly better route reading needed, couldn't make a clip), definitely fit enough for this which is good

3 Font 7a+ and 1 7B. No 7B yet, but several 7A+

Use fingerboard at least twice a week over the winter. This went ok til a minor finger injury, made gains. No fingerboard in the new house as yet.

Money and time dependent it would be good to get some big routes done in Yosemite/Dolomites/Verdon or similar, at the expense of the other goals, but we'll see! Possibility of combining with trip to Norway...

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#182 Re: Aims for 2013
August 02, 2013, 07:35:02 am
1. Wales: organise successful München DAV Wales Trip. Organised successfully. Hut is booked, seven people including myself have flights booked, met up up with old friends from the uk host club in Ailefroide last week. Climb E2 (Strand / Left Wall / Daisy / Dervish) The actual climbing remains to be done: first week in September

2. Frankenjura: as regularly as possible. More than this last year's two visits. Primary obstacle here is Alps-obsessed partners.
Promising. Four visits so far, although the first two were complete washouts due to the Great Central European Deluge of May & June. Actual climbing achievements to date have been limited (I am building up an extensive collection of open projects), but I now have regular contacts/partners who are interested in the 'jura and don't just want to go to the Alps all the time. Good partners are the main thing in the long run.

3. Dolomites(*): two or more big alpine rock routes
(* or Kaisergebirge, Oberreintal etc. etc. Dolomites just happens to be my favourite of the alpine rock areas I've visited so far)
Went to Ailefroide for my main alpine season week this year for a chance to meet up with some old friends from the UK. Had a great time and was much impressed with the Ecrins as an area. The only multipitch route we actually succeeded on was in the valley and not especially "alpine" though. Might still manage a weekend in Kaiser, Oberreintal or Dolomites later in the year

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#183 Re: Aims for 2013
August 02, 2013, 08:14:44 am
5. Freeway in reasonable style attempt scheduled for later this month
if that falls through my mate simon will be up for this when we are out there next month

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#184 Re: Aims for 2013
August 04, 2013, 09:48:03 pm
goals:
-finish off a bunch of stuff i should have done this year (v crimps, transformer lh, spam, severus snape, sabotage, astro nave- optionally) none  >:(
-consistently 7C in a session almost flashed two in south africa so I'm going to claim it
-8A without a doubt attempt some harder stuff, 8A+, 8B... wooo done nutsa, tried black shadow and did all the moves too, need to get on more though
-keep with the board sole reason for doing anything this year
-get to ratho every so often and get better at routes (better not stronger) not touched a rope
-stretch a lot more and stay as injury free as possible) been doing loads of yoga and no tweaks so far, not greening it till the end of the year though

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#185 Re: Aims for 2013
August 04, 2013, 10:35:46 pm

-8A without a doubt attempt some harder stuff, 8A+, 8B... wooo done nutsa, tried black shadow and did all the moves too, need to get on more though

Nice one on Nutsa, saw the video! Isn't black shadow banned now though?

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#186 Re: Aims for 2013
August 05, 2013, 01:04:47 am

-8A without a doubt attempt some harder stuff, 8A+, 8B... wooo done nutsa, tried black shadow and did all the moves too, need to get on more though

Nice one on Nutsa, saw the video! Isn't black shadow banned now though?

got on it literally the week before the ban happened though, weirdly enough though it didnt really seem like there was much to indicate that the place was closed in the layby/carpark, they must have been relying on word of mouth...

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#187 Re: Aims for 2013
August 06, 2013, 01:51:22 pm
Half-time score:

Pfalz. - YYFY, just back from 10 days there, waaaaaay too hot but ace exploring 21 different crags in a magical area.

Berdorf. - no, but possibility of a trip over summer

Lewis. - no, but have a keen partner lined up for the next month and two possible week windows IF the weather dries out

Climb some challenging routes at Glen Nevis, Creag Dubh, and Ullapool area. - no, did a tiny bit around Ullapool and then my climbing randomly went to shit

Keep active in general. - yes, have kept going despite demoralising punterdom

Wow. Given I had a great start to the year, that's pretty fucking bollox. Goals FAIL. No idea what happened around May, I just suddenly got shit after the best bouldering -> sport -> trad  start to a year ever. Still there are chances of getting away, and I am pushing hard and training to try to get my confidence / competence back.

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#188 Re: Aims for 2013
August 11, 2013, 04:16:58 pm
Time for an update...

- Have a good trip to Ceuse in July - drag myself up an 8a (hopefully Carte Blanche) and get some good 7's done (Berlin, Super Mickey, Lapinerie all in mind) - just back from Ceuse. Had a good trip, did 7c 2nd go and first 7b onsight but no 8a. Did lots of onsighting and didn't really put any time into redpointing. Going to give myself a green for this despite no 8a.
- Train PE properly and get route fit ahead of aforementioned trip - yes, think I did ok with this. Felt good on long steep routes.
- Get out lots locally at weekends - have been out quite a bit, racked up a fair bit of mileage in the mid 7's.
- Make the effort to get out after work in the summer - have been out after work a few times but perhaps not as much as I could.
- Get lots of mileage at 7b to 7c+ - done ok at this, but have done a lot of 7a-7b+ and not really gotten on enough 7c and upwards. Need to change this.
- Finish off Liquid Crystal once it's dry again (after falling off last move in October) - YYFY! Did this back in May, first (soft?) 8a
- Get down to Cornish granite at least a couple of times - went down for a few days in February, got spanked. Due a rematch.
- Get to Pembroke at least a few times and try harder - no, haven't been to pembroke this year, sport took over ahead of Ceuse trip. May switch back to trad in the next few months.
- Do some bouldering, would be nice to tick 7B - again, have been working on sport and have done basically no bouldering. Font trip planned in October so will get back on the bouldering before then and hopefully push my grade.
- Try and get rid off / avoid niggling finger injuries - No finger issues whatsoever, possibly related to the lack of bouldering!

Specific local routes I'd like to at least get on:

Lurking Sear (Wintours)
Academic (Avon)
Featherless Biped (Avon)
Arms Race (Avon)
Right-Hand Man (Cheddar)
Shock of the New (Cheddar)
Driller Killer (Cheddar)
Follow the Slick Red Road (Cheddar)
Bird of Paradise (Cheddar)

Manchmals (Cheddar) - Got on but didn't like, prob won't go back to it
House Burning Down (Cheddar)
Berlin (Dinas)
H1N1 (Dinas)
Empire (Ansteys)
Cider Soak (Ansteys)


Not too unhappy with progress so far. Sport has been going ok, and trad and bouldering goals have fallen a bit by the wayside as a result. Hopefully can put a bit more time into each over the rest of the year.

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#189 Re: Aims for 2013
August 11, 2013, 06:31:22 pm
Nice to see some Avon aspirations there. How about something like Bristol Unillustrated?

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#190 Re: Aims for 2013
August 11, 2013, 07:41:01 pm
Interesting, not one I've heard of. What's it like?

andy popp

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#191 Re: Aims for 2013
August 11, 2013, 10:00:45 pm
It just struck me it fits quite well with the other choices style and grade wise; Avon but not too "Avon". High up on main wall; bit of easy climbing, great bouldery intro crux on opposing gastons, quick finishing sprint on finger locks and pockets. Peg protected but effectively a clip up. I didn't really use French grades at the time (quarter of a century ago) but I'd guess at somewhere around 7b+/c. I really enjoyed it.

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#192 Re: Aims for 2013
August 12, 2013, 08:45:15 am
Ok great, thanks for that. Will take a look!

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#193 Re: Aims for 2013
September 03, 2013, 01:06:56 pm
September update.  Been really struggling for motivation this year, but finally got a bit of keenness back.  Pembroke'll do that for you!


1.  109 7a's on the bolts.  Barney Rubble - Torbryan (is this really 7a+? Did it second go so it is probably soft!
2.  Klondike, Pocket City and Solid Gold at Pen Trwyn.  Been but not tried
3.  The Big Groove and Rat Race on Main Cliff.  Not been
4.  Red Wall on Red Wall.  Not been
5.  Something easy at the easy end of North Stack Wall.  Not been
6.  Go to Pembroke at least once (no trips this year) and do another route in the leap.  (Maybe Bloody Sunday if I have a cup of MTFU). Hooray.  Pembroke's great!  Sat on a wire low down on Bloody Sunday, but got on with it after that!
7.  Go to Cornwall (Bosigran and Sharpnose are pre-requisites).  Taking a pass for this,  didn't go to Sharpnose or Bosigran because I have a stupid dog, but I did have a lovely trip!
8.  Climb in the Pass a bit more.  Had a nice little trip there for a few days.  It's nice when the weather's good innit.
9.  Get on Laurin or Flaky Wall at High Tor.  Not been
10.Something on Craig Arthur.  Maybe Manikins of Horror. 

5.9 goals remaining.  Better pull my finger out.

Luke Owens

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#194 Re: Aims for 2013
September 05, 2013, 08:53:49 am
Sport:

1. First 7b -
Butterfly Collector - Ruthin (Was on this at the weekend, hopefully get ticked this Sunday)
Walking With Barrance - Dinbren
Sunny Side Up Mix - Craig Arthur

2. Try something harder - possibly a 7b+ or 7c that looks inspiring.

3. On-sight a 7a - Few possibilities around maybe something at Pinfold or The Marsh Flower at Craig Arthur.

Bouldering:

4. More V6's and a first V7. Middle Undercut V7 at Hope Mnt.

5. Trip to Font in October - Get some good ticks and make a video

6. Trad:

Get some routes of any grade in. Don't trad climb enough. Headpoint something hard this year. Possibly E6/E7. . . Shoot To Thrill at Pinfold?

7. Fingerboard:

Carry on with Repeater workout and mix it up every 6 weeks.

8. Everything Else:

Finish bolting and climb my project.
Head to some new areas - Malham, Kilnsey, Chee Dale.
Climb more on the Orme.
Boulder as well as Sport in the summer instead of sacking off bouldering altogether like last year.

So far...

1. Ticked 5 F7b's when I only expected to get one...
2. Did my first 7b+ in August.
3. On-sighted F6c+ recently and retroflashed a F7a (I couldn't remember the moves/being on it but my log book tells me otherwise)
4. Fail - Bouldering has been a write off so far, will be more keen in the cooler months.
5. Haven't even booked a gite yet... Another fail
6. Only done one trad route all year a 3 star E2 5c at the World's End.
7.
- Finished bolting and climbed my project, a great F7b.
- Planned to go to Kilnsey on my birthday but it rained, this is still on the cards...
- Have climbed more on the Orme than ever before
- Well and truly sacked off bouldering in summer...

A good year so far for sport climbing!

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#195 Re: Aims for 2013
September 09, 2013, 12:35:28 am
Font 7b by the end of the year sounds good and is more than attainable.. Working on it. Made plenty of progress...
Boulder and DWS developing... Shit loads around here. Got some good bouldering being developed. DWS will have to wait until it gets abit warmer but have got some walls in mind.
Get down to the Grampians this winter too. Check! Going down there in 2 weeks for a week.... Can't fucking wait...

Ugh. Had a big 2 month break from climbing right in the middle of winter. Fucked if I know why, it just happened and I only got on rock for a day a month... V8 aint gonna happen this year unless some miracle happens... Lets try for V7..

Developing... Plenty of development going on. Put up about 30 problems so far at various crags with a shit-tonne of projects. Just getting warm enough for DWS, was out last week looking for walls, access, approaches etc. Hopefully get on a couple tomorrow.

Grampians. Check. Had a good first week there. Although I told myself not to just rush at everything because I'll be back alot... Of course, I just hit everything... Nearly got a couple of V7s, close to a V8 and 1 move off a V9... Awesome lowball compression up a prow. All I had to do was move my left foot 12 inches up the prow and I would've had it... Pretty pissed by that but  I did start trying it on my 4th day on, then got back on it on my last. No rest days either dumbass.

Entered in the next round of the NSW State bouldering comp aswell. As long as I don't do too shit in that... I'm more interested in the next day, putting up new problems in a new area just outside Canberra.

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#196 Re: Aims for 2013
September 09, 2013, 10:26:31 am
After succeeding in the last year to avoid injury and climb well I feel that I have put myself in a strong position for the coming year.

Once the initial post-christmas languidness and obesity have worn off, my aims are:

Triple 8 project - 8a, 8A and E8 - On the backburner since I hurt my shoulder, but it was going really well. Maybe next year.
In order to achieve this I aim to succeed in these goals:

Lose the christmas weight and then continue till I hit ~70kg Whoops...
Force myself to earn some stamina points by tying onto a rope and doing some of those route things. Went really well, when it was going. Went from shitting myself on 7a to climbing 7c+ over a month
Go to Ceuse and make use of my new jug hauling ability to scrape my way up a problem or two. Injured myself - so went to Thailand instead, did some bouldering...

Do some DWS as I have still to learn how it feels to be shitting myself above a swirling void of darkness. Missed the whole season. Lame.

Boulder somewhere in America - ideally Hueco or Joes Valley. This will be a year end reward for being a good boy and training hard. No reward for me I think, might go to font instead.

Actually make a few videos with my camera, maybe even one/a series charting this progress. I did! and I reckon they are pretty decent. Redesigned my blog and had some very positive reviews overall. Happy on this front.

Consider what I want to do with my life?  :shrug: So far struggled to find inspiration - anyone got a handout?

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#197 Re: Aims for 2013
November 11, 2013, 01:02:40 pm
Trad
Solid E2 - not solid but did one or two in canada depending on which grade comparison you check
Some E3 - Seconded some clean in Canada
Sport
Lead 7b - Jam Session at bruixes
solid 6c onsight - all have been second go so pretty close but not really sports climbed since early june
Bouldering
7A - got a project making slow progress

Specific stuff:
Top out the cheif - Tick Banana peel>granville street>Squamish buttress>butt lite link
The grand Wall - Squamish by best possible style - Was not ready so did not try I did feel better when I heard of tom and petes epic :)
Pebble Wall
Flying arête - fell off top move 6 times in a sessiona fuck tonne of times in many sessions
Crucific traverse and low - Progress but not really been on either properly
Climb at gogarth - Dont think I will now
bit of a shitty read oh well month and a half left

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#198 Re: Aims for 2013
November 11, 2013, 01:28:00 pm
Doing this early cos it's not going to change in the next couple of months!!

Full-time score:

Pfalz. - YYFY, just back from 10 days there, waaaaaay too hot but ace exploring 21 different crags in a magical area.

Berdorf. - no, ran out of weather, unlikely to happen over winter??

Lewis. - no, ran out of weather, postphoned to next year

Climb some challenging routes at Glen Nevis, Creag Dubh, and Ullapool area. - YYFY, got my confidence and determination back after Pfalz and had a brilliant autumn doing some amazing and inspiring climbs

Keep active in general. - yes, have kept going despite demoralising punterdom

Winter:
Keep climbing trad on suitable suntraps - including grit if I can organise it.
Get abroad as much as possible.
Keep training hard but taking care of injuries.

Paul B

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#199 Re: Aims for 2013
November 11, 2013, 01:28:56 pm
1) Buy/borrow/steal massive rack - Done, bought (it still wasn't big enough at times).
2) 6 month trip - Done

3) Find job, preferably one I enjoy, close to home with a sympathetic (to climbing) boss. - Hmmm does the Foundry count? It certainly wasn't what I meant when I wrote it.

I probably should've been more specific with my list for the trip but I guess at the point of writing I didn't have it all planned out.

Mainly:
Get Married without it turning into an all consuming financial nightmare
A big aid line on El Cap (not the Nose). - Shamelessly good reason to back though.

although there were plenty of 'greens' that I hadn't planned or hoped for.

 

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