[andy_e]

7C+
Put Hunter's Roof to bed
Get published (or at least have papers accepted to be published)
Eat, drink and be merry whilst keeping weight down.

[TobyD]

1) Mend foot
2) OS some more E6s
3) climb E7
4) finish Yorkshire triple crown
5) redpoint 2 more 8bs
6) try something harder (sport)
7) get a haircut
watch the rest of the godfather movies

[tommytwotone]

Bouldering

5 x new Font 7as
Font 7b
Top 10 finish in one of the Leeds indoor bouldering leagues

Other

2 x gym sessions a week chucking kettlebells around
3 x meditation sessions a week
Do at least one 16kg Turkish Get Up, both sides

[Jaspersharpe]

1) Mend foot

Amen to that.

[galpinos]

Climbing:

Font 7c
30 new 7s (new to me, not new problems)
Tick the problems on The List
E5 (Optimistic)
7c (Doubtful)
Orion Face Direct

Running:

Sub 19 5k
Sub 40 10k
Sub 90 half

Party Trick:

One arm pull-up (both arms)

[TobyD]

Climbing:
Font 7c
7c (Doubtful)
Orion Face Direct

So you're strong enough for Font 7c, but think F7c is optimistic?   Well bouldery 8bs are only about font 7c ish

[Bonjoy]

....and as for

E5 (Optimistic)

 

[sidewinder]

Font 7b/+ (that doesn't involve jumping).
Be able to tick 7a 'easily' including in Font if I get there this year.

Sport 7c and some volume in the 7's if the weather behaves.

Spend some weekends not in the Peak (weather dependent).

Get on/complete trad E2 (and harder...?) regularly, without stress, probably dependent again on weather and also if I end up away from the Peak a bit more.

[galpinos]

So you're strong enough for Font 7c, but think F7c is optimistic?   Well bouldery 8bs are only about font 7c ish

Cheers Toby and Jon, isn’t it nice to have your hopes and dreams shot down and criticised by your peers! 

It's optimistic as I'm focusing on bouldering until March when, assuming everything goes well, I’ll become a dad - at which point climbing will go on the back burner for a while. When life returns to normality enough for me to actually get outside again I shall probably only be getting out for a couple of hours here and there so the chance of me getting out on a rope is pretty slim!

To be honest, Font 7c is pretty optimistic but the problems on my ticklist at the grade are lines that have always inspired me (and for most of my climbing “career” I’ve believed were out of my reach) so to tick them would be a pretty big deal. I could then move my focus more to routes!

[SA Chris]

You got any ski trips up here planned?

[galpinos]

Maybe, as the wife can't ski she has banned me but a Scottish weekend is apparently allowed (on the basis that it mainly involves walking and climbing in drizzle for a sketchy descent of a partially filled gully) . No prospective dates yet but if you're keen, I'll drop you a pm if any plans start forming......

[SA Chris]

Yeah give us a shout. Conditions are pish at the moment, but it hopefully won't be all season!

[Duma]

So you're strong enough for Font 7c, but think F7c is optimistic?   Well bouldery 8bs are only about font 7c ish

Cheers Toby and Jon, isn’t it nice to have your hopes and dreams shot down and criticised by your peers! 

It's optimistic as I'm focusing on bouldering until March when, assuming everything goes well, I’ll become a dad - at which point climbing will go on the back burner for a while. When life returns to normality enough for me to actually get outside again I shall probably only be getting out for a couple of hours here and there so the chance of me getting out on a rope is pretty slim!

To be honest, Font 7c is pretty optimistic but the problems on my ticklist at the grade are lines that have always inspired me (and for most of my climbing “career” I’ve believed were out of my reach) so to tick them would be a pretty big deal. I could then move my focus more to routes!

Thing is, given your bouldering ability (assumming 7B/+), those route goals should be doable in a day each - or a day full stop at the right crag! Bouldery 7c would probably take you only two or three goes, and a suitable E5 should be flashable surely.

[Bonjoy]

I'm not sure where you're based, but I could point you at good E5s which should be a pushover at your level and straightforward/none-scary enough to not require trad mileage before attempting.

[TobyD]

I'm not sure where you're based, but I could point you at good E5s which should be a pushover at your level and straightforward/none-scary enough to not require trad mileage before attempting.

The Galpinos lives in Manchester, (unless I am very out of date). Ditto - Nick I could give you any number of safe E5s you would absolutely walk up, with an ability to do Font 6c; let alone 7c! I was trying to be encouraging... but understand future time restrictions may inhibit achievement!  Same with F7c to be honest. Chiselling the Dragon for a start... crimpy font 7a (ish) to a monster rest, then a French 7a/7a+ to finish.  Why Me in the dale about the same, except a bit easier (as far as i remember).

[TobyD]

1) Mend foot

Amen to that.

Cheers JS. Not doing too well on this goal so far. Despite subjective improvement and being able to cycle 30-35 miles at a time, and do F7c in baggy boots in spain without pain; it seems the bone has not united after more than 3 months. Put out does not begin to cover it.

[Fiend]

Same happened to me with a broken meta-tarsal. Took months to heal. Make sure you have enough blood flow to the foot as it's a poor area for blood flow anyway.

After it eventually healed I had a good winter training at the wall, some fun climbs on grit, and then the best spring trad climbing ever, HTH.

[ksjs]

I thought the best 7c+ at Ceuse was either Magicien de RIGA over at the right hand end, or Mirage at Cascade. Priviledge is a good one for your first though...

Think I got a bit stuck on it as I thought "Long 7c, will be 'easy' " and through lack of respect never sorted top section out as much as I should but La Chose in Berlin seemed to me to be 7c+ (currently 7c but was 7c+ previously) and utterly superb. Quite a few comments on 8a.nu that it's either hard or should be 7c+. Certainly much harder than Vagabond. Didn't get on Privilege so can't comment versus that.

[csl]

Think I got a bit stuck on it as I thought "Long 7c, will be 'easy' " and through lack of respect never sorted top section out as much as I should but La Chose in Berlin seemed to me to be 7c+ (currently 7c but was 7c+ previously) and utterly superb. Quite a few comments on 8a.nu that it's either hard or should be 7c+. Certainly much harder than Vagabond. Didn't get on Privilege so can't comment versus that.

Yeh i remember chatting to someone from north wales, (maybe you?) about La Chose. If it was you, did you get it in the end?

I didn't really look at much in Berlin apart from a brief go on Blocage, but i would like to climb something on that wall!

[rodma]

This is mostly just a repost from last year. I meant to post my results in the 2012 thread, but since i failed, what does it matter.

   

• Do some new 8as or above (managed 5 last year)
• Do 1 8b (have my heart set on Pierre Philosophale, gourmandise but I'll have to wait and see)
• Find some dry rock
• Do a 1-arm flick on the small rungs
• Get Euro-thin

[ksjs]

Yeh i remember chatting to someone from north wales, (maybe you?) about La Chose. If it was you, did you get it in the end?

I didn't really look at much in Berlin apart from a brief go on Blocage, but i would like to climb something on that wall!

Could well have been me, I'm sure I was boring plenty of people with my struggles on it. My best effort was falling with left hand on the awkward hold just before jugs at the belay. Just didn't know what I was doing with my feet enough to hold that move. Quite intimidating up there too, it was my first time at Ceuse and I had some fairly respectable falls when trying La Chose.

I didn't do much else in the Berlin area but did manage Petite Illusion and St John's Pecos both of which are stunning. Very keen to finish La Chose next time and then do Blocage and Berlin.

[ksjs]

Feels a bit voyeuristic reading everyone else's and not adding my own so here they are:

Trad

- More than anything I'd like to be getting on more E5s and achieving an onsight success rate of somewhere between 60 and 70%.
- No particular routes I'm aiming for but Ride the Wild Surf, Soap on a Rope (DWS), Blue Peter (still haven't climbed on North Stack), The Minotaur, Just Another Day / Scorched Earth (I am in love with The Leap) and Get Some In are all on the radar. I MUST get to Cloggy too.
- I'd like to have 2 or 3 long weekend trips to Pembroke.
- If weather isn't better this year (it will be!) I will make much more of an effort to get to Gogarth and the Lleyn (though there's not loads I can throw myself at on the Lleyn).

Sport

- Tidy up unfinished business on Parasite, Stiff Upper Lip, Never Get Out of the Boat (utterly brilliant), Dark Half, Spong and Raisin Frumpsnoot (think this might be my third year trying this - few seem to rate it but it's incredible, fallen from last move twice a few months ago).
- Do 2 solid 7cs in a day.
- Onsight proper 7b+ in the UK.
- Have 3 or 4 long weekend Yorkshire trips (still not been to Malham - disgusting [me, not it] !)
- Get on a UK 8b and give it serious time, realistically this will be in Yorkshire.
- If planets, weather and skills were aligned and there was an 8b tick in the bag I'd love to do Supercool at Gordale, never been there but this totally inspires me.

Bouldering

- Do 8A but not in the Cave. Possibly Sway On as this is close, looks superb and you can work it on your own. Have heard it's not so easy though.
- Do 7C+ aka finish Lou Ferrino.
- Do Rockatrocity.
- Do 7B+ in a session.
- Flash proper 7A.
- Manage at least 1 winter weekend on grit between now and March.
- Manage at least 2 days at Porth Ysgo between now and March.

Good luck and big strength to all for 2013 plans. All we need is the weather or I may have to reconsider where home is...

[Luke Owens]

Sport:

First 7b -
Butterfly Collector - Ruthin (Was on this at the weekend, hopefully get ticked this Sunday)
Walking With Barrance - Dinbren
Sunny Side Up Mix - Craig Arthur

Try something harder - possibly a 7b+ or 7c that looks inspiring.

On-sight a 7a - Few possibilities around maybe something at Pinfold or The Marsh Flower at Craig Arthur.

Bouldering:

More V6's and a first V7. Middle Undercut V7 at Hope Mnt.

Trip to Font in October - Get some good ticks and make a video

Trad:

Get some routes of any grade in. Don't trad climb enough. Headpoint something hard this year. Possibly E6/E7. . . Shoot To Thrill at Pinfold?

Fingerboard:

Carry on with Repeater workout and mix it up every 6 weeks.

Everything Else:

Finish bolting and climb my project.
Head to some new areas - Malham, Kilnsey, Chee Dale.
Climb more on the Orme.
Boulder as well as Sport in the summer instead of sacking off bouldering altogether like last year.

[frasermcilwraith]

1. Do at least one 8a+
2. Do some new 8as
3. Go to font
4. Spend more time in the lakes
5. Be able to jump and catch the small ring one handed on both sides
6. Get decent exam results

(Basically, get stronger and try not to get injured)

[ducko]

Kick a goose in the scrot'