UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: granticus on April 17, 2013, 03:13:31 pm
-
So it has been suggested and here it is. A SW bouldering thread, please post links to blogs, new problems, facebook pages, web-sites etc. Anything related to what's going on in the SW bouldering wise at the moment.
First up on javu news of new stuff on Bodmin, Dartmoor and Exmoor.
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/SWBoulderingUpdate2013.shtml (http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/SWBoulderingUpdate2013.shtml)
-
Don't forget Esoteric Bouldering for Bristol area.
esotericbouldering.com (http://esotericbouldering.com)
-
Gratuitous self-promotion but here is some Hartland action from a visit last year:
Hartland on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45501081)
Be cool to see some more videos of South West stuff if anyone has any rather than the usual 90% Peak bouldering fare.
-
Last time i proposed such a thing it was shot down for reasons i don't quite remember, but did agree with.
Something about the site already catering for everywhere without the need to have individual regions. Seems right, the divisions would be endless.
Regional wiki already exists. Post conditions reports as appropriate, and start relevant news threads, etc.
However, if a SW Thread is now considered appropriate, fair enough.
Does it stretch to bristol area?
-
Bristol is in the South West as far as I'm concerned but then I'm a lowly Grockle ;). I reckon stretch it to Bristol if you want. It's not like this thread is going to be inundated!
-
Personally, i see bristol area as everything in gloucestershire and somersetcestershire.
I think devon and cornwall are quite distinct climbing wise.
And as for that dorset putty masquerading as rock. That's a geological law unto itself.
-
Here is a link to my vimeo page these are mostly just beta clips, no fancy editing or music yet, but they show a few new(ish) Mid Cornwall problems, more to come as I get more vimeo space.
https://vimeo.com/user4955702
-
Last time i proposed such a thing it was shot down for reasons i don't quite remember, but did agree with.
Something about the site already catering for everywhere without the need to have individual regions. Seems right, the divisions would be endless.
Regional wiki already exists. Post conditions reports as appropriate, and start relevant news threads, etc.
However, if a SW Thread is now considered appropriate, fair enough.
Does it stretch to bristol area?
Lets roll the dice and see what happens if it turns out to be :shit: it can be binned.
Shirely Bristol's in the SW..
-
what a :goodidea:
heres some vimeo
https://vimeo.com/user13555439/videos
-
Some links.here to sites old and new
http://info.rockrun.com/articles/tintagel-north-cornish-coastal-bouldering.html (http://info.rockrun.com/articles/tintagel-north-cornish-coastal-bouldering.html)
http://info.rockrun.com/hartland-quay-miniguide.html (http://info.rockrun.com/hartland-quay-miniguide.html)
http://www.blocspenwith.co.uk/# (http://www.blocspenwith.co.uk/#)!venues
Also rusty peg site is good for Burrator woods info and for topos with no maps to get to the areas for Bovey Woods there's the wetpaint site (link is easy to find)
-
St Ives bouldering
http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?cate=3&topic=17&item=789 (http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?cate=3&topic=17&item=789)
-
Excellent. This has already been useful for me at least, hadn't seen those vids before. Carn Brea looks well good!
-
New wall near Liskeard ...
http://www.magicwoodclimbing.co.uk/ (http://www.magicwoodclimbing.co.uk/)
Not been yet so would be interested to know what the bouldering's like, and particularly whether it's got a training board, as it's a bit nearer to me than the Barn ...
http://www.barnclimbingwall.co.uk/index.htm (http://www.barnclimbingwall.co.uk/index.htm)
-
Ben's new problem in the Wallflower cave in Cheddar:
Tombstone 7c FA on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63950503)
Few of us had a look at this today, really good! (despite me failing with my hand on top twice! grrr...)
-
Unsurprisingly, I have been beavering away in the woods all Winter and thought I would send a couple of links to relevant pages on the Wiki site:
New Problems from this season:
http://shaptor.wetpaint.com/page/New+Problems+2012%2F13 (http://shaptor.wetpaint.com/page/New+Problems+2012%2F13)
The best (in my humble opinion) new problems from the last five years:
http://shaptor.wetpaint.com/page/Recent+Problems (http://shaptor.wetpaint.com/page/Recent+Problems)
Unfortunately we're getting towards the end of the woods season now; soon the ants will be out in force, the leaves will be out and air will be damp and horrible. Probably 2 to 3 weeks left what with the ridiculously cold Spring we've had, so if you're interested in checking them out now's the time to do it.
-
Duma, was it in good nick then?
Planning to get down on Sunday if anyone else from Bristol is keen and wants a lift
-
Bit of seepage on the RH starting hold, but easily driable, can't blame conditions for my failure! Should be fine on sunday if it stays dry till then I'd guess. I'm working this weekend sadly, but was there today with lukeh, cha1n, and Paul T - all sometimes on here and they may be keen for a rematch? Do you know Rory (works at TCA)? he may be keen, I know he was close before ben did it.
-
If you end up on your tod might be worth noting that it's steep enough to really want 2 pads, but lugging 2 up shoot gully and back down would not be fun.
-
I am in the South West - in Torquay. There is a new bouldering centre opening soon. Here is the link to the Facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Boulder-Bunker-Coming-Soon/139693576202469?ref=ts&fref=ts (https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Boulder-Bunker-Coming-Soon/139693576202469?ref=ts&fref=ts)
-
Cheers for that. Should be meeting a mate coming from the other direction so pad's won't be a problem.
Think i spoke to Rory at the wall the other day....will see if he's keen if he's around tonight
-
Good to see this flurry of south west interest.
Couple of ideas, otherwise this one thread will become a real jumble:
please also post condition reports in that thread as well.
Any news, significant ascents, access, etc also post in relevant main forum thread. (I don't get around country much anymore, but still enjoy reading what's going on in Yorkshire say).
When posting links to climbing walls, topos, etc, please add them to the appropriate UKB wiki page.
this creates a coherent regional resource, with easy to find details.
For coastal crags, please state if tidal, and add link to relevant annual tide table.
-
Duma, was it in good nick othen?
Planning to get down on Sunday if anyone else from Bristol is keen and wants a lift
one more housekeeping thing, then i am going to shut up because i am starting to sound like someone's flipping mother.
Good idea to post lifts wanted, offered, hook ups etc, in something for weekend thread, so everyone will see them on recent posts list. Otherwise, i wouldn't know this above offer existed without trawling through whole south west thread.
I know what i mean. Probably not communicating it very well.
-
Ben's new problem in the Wallflower cave in Cheddar:
Few of us had a look at this today, really good! (despite me failing with my hand on top twice! grrr...)
This looks immense! Is it quite conditions dependent or will it be worth a look over the summer if its not too hot?
-
Tombstone looks good and receiving a lot of attention.
Anyone heading for a send in next few weeks, good luck, and remember the need to have BMC insurance for gorge south side (Martin does check sometimes). And climbing ban both bank holiday weekends in May.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930 (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930)
-
remember the need to have BMC insurance for gorge south side (Martin does check sometimes).
Good call Adge, restriction calendar here : https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=807 (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=807)
BMC membership comes with the required 3rd party liability - I'm sure you're all members already though...
-
And climbing ban both bank holiday weekends in May.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930 (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930)
Why is climbing banned on May bank holidays? Never been to Cheddar, am a BMC member but do I need to take my card with me to climb as it might take some finding!
-
And climbing ban both bank holiday weekends in May.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930 (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930)
Why is climbing banned on May bank holidays? Never been to Cheddar, am a BMC member but do I need to take my card with me to climb as it might take some finding!
it's because the rock is not above suspicion, and gorge full of tourists.
You don't have to physically have your card with you, but it helps if asked. Having the insurance is crucial though. It's a hard won access agreement.
-
And climbing ban both bank holiday weekends in May.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930 (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=930)
Why is climbing banned on May bank holidays? Never been to Cheddar, am a BMC member but do I need to take my card with me to climb as it might take some finding!
hi steamboat.
Should also say if you've never been to cheddar, get a good look at guide if you haven't already got one. So you'll be sure you're going up shoot gully and not the gully of creeps.
And take care in shoot gully as well.
-
How would one make sure they have the right gully then? I haven't got a guide and was planning on just winging it.
-
How would one make sure they have the right gully then? I haven't got a guide and was planning on just winging it.
if you go to top of gorge, on left hand side looking down gorge you will find a covered reservoir. Shoot gully is the big gully about 50 metres below that. Past an obvious moderate line, Eden crack, with a cave at its base (from memory, i think it's called white spot cave).
-
It's the gully that starts at the coach turning circle - can't miss it I'd have thought?
scramble up this then take the path on the right about 20m above the rock fence, through the little wood, wallflower cave is obvious once you come out the other side of the woods
-
Duma
you are of course right.
I was overthinking in relation to the rock. There is a fucking great bus turning circle below shoot gully.
I shall punish myself accordingly for overlooking that.
-
Hi all,
Has anyone got any information about Anstey's Cove beach bouldering. I hear there are a couple of good problems (Gravitron, When the Days are Dead) down there and I was keen to check them out. Haven't been able to find any pics/vids or info yet. Location, tides and general beta all greatly appreciated.
Many thanks.
-
Hi Ted.
Don't know much myself, but if you look in conditions, there is an ansteys cove thread. May be some relevant info there.
Also, if you type ansteys into search, top right of screen, that should bring up any existing beta and discussions on ansteys cove on UKB.
Hope that helps
-
https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=10151618461507065 (https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=10151618461507065)
A new problem
The Zennor Fool 7b +
Down at the bottom of Zennor Cliffs. Quite a few problems, but generally very bad landings, lots of mats needed. I would say it's as good as Clodgy. Just so hard to access. I'll be happy to show any interested folk around. I'm not sure about the grade, it felt harder, but that might be because I was generally working it on my own and its a bit scary down there! — at Grid ref Pendour Cove x(144625.000) y(38965.000).
-
Nice One Andy. Looks cool.
I went to Northcott on Friday evening and a big lump has fallen off the top of Red Quinnie cave. Just to the left of where Red Quinnie tops out, the offending lump is currently sat right under the crux of Red Quinnie making it very awkward to climb. Assuming the lump eventually moves, Red Quinnie will be unaffected but I'm not sure about the problems to the left though.
-
https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=10151618461507065 (https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=10151618461507065)
A new problem
The Zennor Fool 7b +
Down at the bottom of Zennor Cliffs. Quite a few problems, but generally very bad landings, lots of mats needed. I would say it's as good as Clodgy. Just so hard to access. I'll be happy to show any interested folk around. I'm not sure about the grade, it felt harder, but that might be because I was generally working it on my own and its a bit scary down there! — at Grid ref Pendour Cove x(144625.000) y(38965.000).
</iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/64539664">The Zennor Fool 7b+</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user13555439">andy whall</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
I've just found that I can put video shot on a phone straight onto Vimeo, quality much better than on FB.
-
That looks great! I'd be keen for a look over the summer but I'm guessing good conditions might be tricky to find? Is the landing much worse than the Carnage block at Hartland?
-
That looks great! I'd be keen for a look over the summer but I'm guessing good conditions might be tricky to find? Is the landing much worse than the Carnage block at Hartland?
Its not as bad as the Carnage landing, which I thought pretty horrible. Its been terraced a fair bit, so its flat and with some pads its fine. I used four mats and had no spotter. its pretty steep so stays surprisingly dry, I've been down in the summer and winter and its not that condition dependent, it has one sloper, the rock is not high friction, so it always feels bad! Its not tidal, although approach is best done two hours either side of an average low tide. Quite a bit of other potential down there as well.
-
What's the current situation at Lulworth? Is it still banned and if so, is that banned, banned or just banned?
I'll be staying there for a week at the end of May and wouldn't mind sneaking out in the evening.
-
What's the current situation at Lulworth? Is it still banned and if so, is that banned, banned or just banned?
I'll be staying there for a week at the end of May and wouldn't mind sneaking out in the evening.
Alright bud.
Check below.
https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=161
-
Thank you, sir.
-
Never got round to it, but always fancied silly arete on durdle door, ever since high or climber and hillwalker magazine had a feature on it way back in the 80s.
-
Try get hold of a thin wetty if you can, in May the water can still be unpleasantly chilly.
-
Me, in water? You must be joking, I'm like the a human cat! I'll just be pootling around some of the boulder probs and since I'll be pad-lass probably just traversing.
-
Had no idea there was any bouldering there. Maypole is an easy fun traverse (slightly harder if you take the low variation going through the cave), and Laws traverse has one tricky but safe boulder problem section (at high tide) which is really close to shore if you fall in either on the way there or the way back. Be a shame not to at least give them a go.
-
That looks great! I'd be keen for a look over the summer but I'm guessing good conditions might be tricky to find? Is the landing much worse than the Carnage block at Hartland?
Its not as bad as the Carnage landing, which I thought pretty horrible. Its been terraced a fair bit, so its flat and with some pads its fine. I used four mats and had no spotter. its pretty steep so stays surprisingly dry, I've been down in the summer and winter and its not that condition dependent, it has one sloper, the rock is not high friction, so it always feels bad! Its not tidal, although approach is best done two hours either side of an average low tide. Quite a bit of other potential down there as well.
Cheers. I didn't think Carnage landing was toooo bad, fine with 3 big pads and spotters but dodgy with anything less. I'll just rehab my latest A2 pulley injury and I'll be down for a raid over the summer! I might PM you for some more detailed access/location info at some point.
-
Had no idea there was any bouldering there. Maypole is an easy fun traverse (slightly harder if you take the low variation going through the cave), and Laws traverse has one tricky but safe boulder problem section (at high tide) which is really close to shore if you fall in either on the way there or the way back. Be a shame not to at least give them a go.
There seem to be a few bits od bouldering there, but I don't know much about the quality, there are a few vids on youtube ans suchlike. I'd imagine it wouldn't be worth a long drive to visit.
I'd been looking at the photos of Maypole a while back and I'd certainly give it a go if it was warm enough. I suspect I'd pump out pretty quickly and fully expect to end up in the drink! I haven't climbed anything that long for a very long time.
-
Maypole is basically a scramble with a couple of slightly bouldery bits. My brother made it 3/4 of the way round and he's climbed maybe 3 or 4 times. Laws is a bit pumpier but great fun and has good rests. Crux is a steep boulder prob but very safe at high tide; worth doing.
-
:tumble:
see Trym Valley conditions thread.
Couldn't be assed to copy and paste
-
Lulworth topo available here:
http://www.dorset-climbing.com/LulworthBouldering.pdf (http://www.dorset-climbing.com/LulworthBouldering.pdf)
plus some other bits documented if you fancy trawling through the website.
-
Lulworth topo available here:
http://www.dorset-climbing.com/LulworthBouldering.pdf (http://www.dorset-climbing.com/LulworthBouldering.pdf)
plus some other bits documented if you fancy trawling through the website.
hi buddy.
Check the wiki. There's no dorset section. Why not start one? You've already got one topo link to add.
Enough people will offer how to pointers if you need them.
Cheers
Adge
-
I would recommend the Sliced Slug boulder at Huntsham (near Monmouth) for some very unusual pocketed sandstone traverses. Huntsham overall is definitely worth a visit but Sliced Slug is a premier league boulder. It stays dry in light rain also. See UK climbing for a list of problems, or esoteric bouldering for the topo.
-
I would recommend the Sliced Slug boulder at Huntsham (near Monmouth) for some very unusual pocketed sandstone traverses. Huntsham overall is definitely worth a visit but Sliced Slug is a premier league boulder. It stays dry in light rain also. See UK climbing for a list of problems, or esoteric bouldering for the topo.
topo in bristol wiki. And huntsham webcam (you can check local weather before you travel)
-
I would recommend the Sliced Slug boulder at Huntsham (near Monmouth) for some very unusual pocketed sandstone traverses. Huntsham overall is definitely worth a visit but Sliced Slug is a premier league boulder. It stays dry in light rain also. See UK climbing for a list of problems, or esoteric bouldering for the topo.
topo in bristol wiki. And huntsham webcam (you can check local weather before you travel)
huntsham really is a cracking venue in my opinion.
There are access problems.
https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=920 (https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=920)
please keep numbers small, discreet, and well behaved. If you are asked to leave, please keep the discussion polite, and report to access rep.
Check parking notes in guidebook, and stick to them.
As with all sandstone, if rock is wet, don't climb it.
Have fun. There's some real class problems and routes.
Highball Fun at Huntsham (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxxPfD7YhWc#)
-
Shamelessly stolen from the other-side.
http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/story/2013-04-30/breaking-landslide-in-dorset/ (http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/story/2013-04-30/breaking-landslide-in-dorset/)
Not sure how or if this affects the climbing but there seems to be a problem with cliff stability in the area. I'd like to watch the videos to get an idea of the reasons why, but my internet connection is far too slow, so if anyone with a bit of geological know-how wants to enlighten me, feel free.
-
Shamelessly stolen from the other-side.
http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/story/2013-04-30/breaking-landslide-in-dorset/ (http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/story/2013-04-30/breaking-landslide-in-dorset/)
Not sure how or if this affects the climbing but there seems to be a problem with cliff stability in the area. I'd like to watch the videos to get an idea of the reasons why, but my internet connection is far too slow, so if anyone with a bit of geological know-how wants to enlighten me, feel free.
that whole stretch of coast is like congealed putty. Landslips are frequent, geologically speaking, and wholly unpredictable.
I've seen the photos on BBC. doesn't seem to have affected lulworth, or even durdle door.
-
I lived in Portsmouth for a while and there were always stories of landslides, especially from the isle of Wight. I was just wondering if this was something new or just the usual crap rock-falls into sea- shocker.
-
Usual crap rock/mud falls into the sea by looks of it. Good news for fossil hunters.
While you're at lulworth, don't forget to see the petrified forest. It's not overly exciting unless you're into palaeolandscapes. But hell, it's not every day you see one
-
I'm enjoying this thread :goodidea: and well done to Andy W for climbing The Zennor Fool - an awesome addition.
Here's a short video from the other day with a few of Carn Brea's classics...
Carn Brea on a Windy Day on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/64577830)
-
Video of my bouldering in the south west last summer: Once Upon a Summer in the South West | Bouldering 2012 on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/49520713)
Also working on one for this spring and summer in the south west and UK :)
Plus a topo for a nice crag in Bristol - Ladye Bay, worth a good evenings climbing: http://www.beastlysquirrelblog.com/#/ladye-bay/4569514566 (http://www.beastlysquirrelblog.com/#/ladye-bay/4569514566)
-
https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=508
-
Here's a short video from the other day with a few of Carn Brea's classics...
Some good beta for me on those second two Barney :). Never been able to work how you start bloodstone!
-
Added the link to the Lulworth bouldering to the Dorset wiki page. Would like to report something a bit more creative but that wiki editing thing made my brain hurt.
On a separate note is the tombstone problem in Cheddar in one of the permitted climbing areas over the summer? I did check out the BMC rad but it wasn't clear to me. Anyone know at what point in the day it would get sun/ shade?
Ta.
-
If heading for Cheesewring or Chudleigh, check RAD. Access details have been updated.
It also says climbing at black rocks near Portishead is banned. But that is not new.
-
Added the link to the Lulworth bouldering to the Dorset wiki page. Would like to report something a bit more creative but that wiki editing thing made my brain hurt.
On a separate note is the tombstone problem in Cheddar in one of the permitted climbing areas over the summer? I did check out the BMC rad but it wasn't clear to me. Anyone know at what point in the day it would get sun/ shade?
Ta.
good question. There seem to be different access dates on different crags branching off shoot gully in guidebook as well.
If you contact Ian Butterworth, he should be able to help.
http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Profile.aspx?id=459 (http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Profile.aspx?id=459)
-
On a separate note is the tombstone problem in Cheddar in one of the permitted climbing areas over the summer? I did check out the BMC rad but it wasn't clear to me. Anyone know at what point in the day it would get sun/ shade?
No, its in Wallflower Shelter, Castle Rocks. Which makes it part of the restored routes, and therefore out of action from 25 May to 2 June, and then again from 1 July to 1 Sept, so we've got 6 weeks to tick before September rolls around again :strongbench:. (Pretty sure I'm reading that right, its clearer in the guide (http://www.dicksclimbing.com/collections/books-dvds/products/cheddar-gorge-climbs-09-edition-latest-by-martin-crocker) but I can't find my copy this morning...)
-
Excellent, thanks.
-
Added the link to the Lulworth bouldering to the Dorset wiki page. Would like to report something a bit more creative but that wiki editing thing made my brain hurt.
On a separate note is the tombstone problem in Cheddar in one of the permitted climbing areas over the summer? I did check out the BMC rad but it wasn't clear to me. Anyone know at what point in the day it would get sun/ shade?
As Luke says this is off peak Summer (http://www.cheddargorge.co.uk/upload/pdf/cheddar_climbing_2013.pdf) so you have until the 30th June.
It might get some sun late in the day in high summer but is in deep shade most of the time.
One other point of note, the access path is through a big bank of nettles, shorts and flip-flops are not recommended as I found to my cost.
-
:please:
Avon Gorge - New Quarry Bouldering
grr666 and myself visited the new quarry yesterday.
The left hand side which often stays dryish. Every single hold was smothered in chalk. Even a pair of holds just 3 inches off the ground were chalked up, gotta be for feet ticks i assume.
Without any prompting, grr, on his first ever outdoor trip, pointed out this makes it like following climbing wall holds and kinda spoils it.
Please, clean your heavy chalking off. It ruins it for others, and makes some holds worse to use for those who come after.
-
See other thread for your newly elected SW area reps for the coming year.
You will note there are now individual area reps for not only cornwall, portland, and swanage, but also, hold the bus! 2 reps for Devon. One for north Devon, and one for south Devon.
I am sure they are all contactable through BMC website.
So there really is no excuse anymore for anyone complaining about the bristol SW climbing mafia running things in the whole SW (although we will be running the crag protection racket. Kapiche?)
-
Rek'n there's room for ambitious yoof in the chalk smuggling racket, though .....
-
I like you kid. You've got spirit. You're alright. Don't cross us though, or we'll bolt the north coast.
Ps you'll notice that although you now have 2 Devon reps, they were voted in by the bristol mafia in the back room of a boozer. We chose them for you. Made them an offer they couldn't refuse.
I think the way it works is our patsys your Devon reps come to our bristol meetings, tell us what you want, then we tell them what we have decided they are going to do.
Just give you a wee conspiracy theory there. Now that you can't scapegoat us anymore.
-
Quality bit of Somerset Esoterica - no excuses now you've got the beta.
The Prow on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/66449404)
Word of warning though - the approach details on ukc are absolute bobbins..... ignore them completely and from the car park; take the path out the back to the east, then head up some steps on the left after about 150m. Go through the gate and then pretty much straight across the field, maybe slightly east till you get to the obviously pebble beach. The prow is tucked away in a little niche on the eastern side.
-
Nice one Chris, glad to see you're keeping keen.
Looks great that, remember seeing a pic of it not too long back. Cool feature.
-
Quality bit of Somerset Esoterica - no excuses now you've got the beta.
The Prow on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/66449404)
Word of warning though - the approach details on ukc are absolute bobbins..... ignore them completely and from the car park; take the path out the back to the east, then head up some steps on the left after about 150m. Go through the gate and then pretty much straight across the field, maybe slightly east till you get to the obviously pebble beach. The prow is tucked away in a little niche on the eastern side.
hi bud.
What venue is that at? Looks nice. Is there much to go at there? Spread of grades, tidal, etc?
Cheers.
-
Nice one wintermute, assume you're the Chris that was out there with Tom recently then?
Nice work correcting the approach stuff, meant to comment a while back when we went but never got round to it.
Regarding this:
...no excuses now you've got the beta.
- I'm not sure my sequence had more than two moves in common with yours!
Adge - its Sand Point, north of WSM. The pebble beach wintermute mentions in his approach beta is called Middle Hope. there's probably scope for a few sub 6 problems on the walls around the prow, but really this is the line. Think Tom mentioned some potential walls they found wondering the beach so maybe more to be discovered? Yes tidal, not sure how much.
-
Quality bit of Somerset Esoterica - no excuses now you've got the beta.
The Prow on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/66449404)
Word of warning though - the approach details on ukc are absolute bobbins..... ignore them completely and from the car park; take the path out the back to the east, then head up some steps on the left after about 150m. Go through the gate and then pretty much straight across the field, maybe slightly east till you get to the obviously pebble beach. The prow is tucked away in a little niche on the eastern side.
What sort of grade does this weigh in at?!
-
Nice one wintermute, assume you're the Chris that was out there with Tom recently then?
Nice work correcting the approach stuff, meant to comment a while back when we went but never got round to it.
Regarding this:
...no excuses now you've got the beta.
- I'm not sure my sequence had more than two moves in common with yours!
Adge - its Sand Point, north of WSM. The pebble beach wintermute mentions in his approach beta is called Middle Hope. there's probably scope for a few sub 6 problems on the walls around the prow, but really this is the line. Think Tom mentioned some potential walls they found wondering the beach so maybe more to be discovered? Yes tidal, not sure how much.
thanks Duma, and wintermute. Looks nice spot, have to pay a visit sometime at low water. I've climbed on the point of sand point, but never visited this one. Cheers.
-
Hi Duma.... Yeah thats me. I'm sure i'll bump into you down the wall at somepoint.
Sam, It's around the 7C mark.
Greg, of course! Nothing else to do when i'm not indulging in a spot of bat voyeurism.
-
Just to add.
Middle Hope is in A&C guidebook, page 201 in cheddar.
It recommends accessible except for 2 hours either side of high water.
-
Here's a short video from the other day with a few of Carn Brea's classics...
Some good beta for me on those second two Barney :). Never been able to work how you start bloodstone!
alternative beta for 'bloodstone arete'...did it today, by stepping in from right, using very rounded flake and usual nothing holds for the left, rock over onto the left starting hold, the difference then from the video is that you have your left foot on the start hold and not your right, climbs better than the jump version in my opinion...couldn't do the jump today, much too warm!
-
I've recently discovered the dubious delights of the bouldering in "Sally in the Woods" - I've managed to identify a number of interesting looking problems based on what I've found on t'internet so far. I've done a bit of searching on here and it seems like there was an article knocking about a few years back, anyone have a copy they could share? Also wondering if anyone out there has any more information/ topos etc.
Seems like there were also some concerns about access and making more information available online, anyone know if this still applies?
Ta in advance.
-
I've recently discovered the dubious delights of the bouldering in "Sally in the Woods" - I've managed to identify a number of interesting looking problems based on what I've found on t'internet so far. I've done a bit of searching on here and it seems like there was an article knocking about a few years back, anyone have a copy they could share? Also wondering if anyone out there has any more information/ topos etc.
Seems like there were also some concerns about access and making more information available online, anyone know if this still applies?
Ta in advance.
Hi. There's a link to Bath bouldering in the Bristol area wiki if that helps.
-
Drop me a mail, ben @ mendipclimb.org.uk and i'll dig out the bathford bouldering details i have for you
-
Thanks guys.
Ben - mail sent.
-
This ones been quiet for a while?
What SW news anyone?
New routes, significant repeats, new discoveries, access/conservation. What's happening with the ansteys bolt saga?
How's the boulder bunker build coming Matt?
Any more reports from bath area?
Finally a plug for Avon and Cheddar fixed gear fund. Rebolting routes, and replacing manky old pegs.
http://www.dicksclimbing.com/products/donate-to-the-avon-and-cheddar-fixed-gear-fund (http://www.dicksclimbing.com/products/donate-to-the-avon-and-cheddar-fixed-gear-fund)
-
New routes, significant repeats, new discoveries, access/conservation. What's happening with the ansteys bolt saga?
Tom Newberry's been busy adding test pieces around Exmoor and the Culm Coast.
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/ (http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/)
-
At Godrevy Dave Biggs has climbed a power packed lower start to pisspot called "crackpot" and graded F7B+ although you may have to be 8A strong to make it feel 7B+!!
-
although you may have to be 8A strong to make it feel 7B+!!
I bet you do James - Many a time I've felt the holds on the low start and thought it would be possible but not at 7b+! how far right does it start?
-
At the moment (they are now working a lower/further right start) you start on the obvous sloper below and to the right of the original pisspot start, there has been some breakage of the sloper over the last couple of months and it is still changing a little, Dave apparently ripped another bit off last night, hopefully now he can give it a more realistic F7C?
-
A video of some problems from Lynmouth, North Devon :)
Lynmouth Bouldering on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/69571234)
-
A video of some problems from Lynmouth, North Devon :)
To embed video just copy and paste the URL and the forum does the rest for you:
Lynmouth Bouldering on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/69571234)
Lovely to see some footage from my local. Loved the comedy mantle attempts on the Slopey Traverse ;D
Pretty in Pink:- is essentially an eliminate that starts where you did, then right hand to the arete and moves dynamically straight to the jug. You climbed one of many variations on this wall that are all a similar grade.
Joker and the Thief:- Traditionally climbs more direct and the slot you went to with your left hand isn't in (you go to the hold you used with your right hand and then mantel/palm down the starting hold, you'll love it!) Again should probably be described as an eliminate.
I need to update the flippin' guide!
Will be there tomorrow morning trying to link an extended start into Monster Tide!
-
Thanks, was wondering how to do that!
And cheers for the beta on those two - guess I've got to go back and do them properly now!
There's so many awesome problems left for me to try so will probably be making another video later in the Summer :)
-
Will be there tomorrow morning trying to link an extended start into Monster Tide!
not surfing?! it's lookin' nice down 'ere
-
A few from Devon
Devon bouldering on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/70968231)
-
Will be there tomorrow morning trying to link an extended start into Monster Tide!
not surfing?! it's lookin' nice down 'ere
Have been getting really motivated to climb recently and have been choosing climbing over surfing even when it's pumping and offshore :o
Here's some :shit: footage of my best link from t'other morning on the extension into Monster Tide, really quality problem, there might be some helpful foot work beta in there somewhere for you Ed?! Although you do seem to be able to campus through the difficulties :strongbench:
https://vimeo.com/71244403
The excuses, it was stinking hot and gopping wet. 2 moves short of the top out. It will happen!
-
Now I know this is more chuffing than bouldering but I thought I'd add it here to help keep this fine thread alive... To help promote the Cheesewring & South East Cornwall guidebook there are some new pages on the publisher's website with News, Articles, New Routes and Updates, etc., for the area. These can be found here (http://www.stivesnews.co.uk/CheesewringClimbing/index.html). Recent additions include new F7b and F7c sport routes in Cheesewring Quarry, plenty of trad adventure on the South Coast from the likes of Crocker and Littlejohn and even some details of a new lower grade bouldering area in the Luxulyan Valley. And don't forget anyone interested in bouldering on Bodmin Moor should really check out Sean Hawken's Bodmin Bouldering Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/Bodminbouldering).
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pWGeYpHgq7A/Ub8gnIxwDcI/AAAAAAAAACs/ld7fQV61UB8/s400/NewSiteScreenprint.jpg) (http://www.stivesnews.co.uk/CheesewringClimbing/index.html)
-
Looking good! Is that where Mike's Extension goes?
Here's some :shit: footage of my best link from t'other morning on the extension into Monster Tide, really quality problem, there might be some helpful foot work beta in there somewhere for you Ed?! Although you do seem to be able to campus through the difficulties :strongbench:
Haha yes there might be indeed! Think some feet are needed if I'm going to do it! :lol:
-
Looking good! Is that where Mike's Extension goes?
Ta. Hmmmm.. Such are the vagaries of coastal climbing.. It's all kind of up for debate. Originally Mike started from a jug on the up problem just left of Monster Tide but the beach level was higher and thus the moves into the start were harder.
Subsequently he climbed it from where I start in the video, having discussed this with him recently he reckons the levels were still higher when he did this but then he is a beast!?
It's so hard to grade stuff around the coast when the levels shift so much.
The answer to the question is; yes it is where the extension goes. The difficulty and method may vary according to beach levels. Feels around the 7b+/7c mark with the current beach level, starting from where I did. Just a lovely piece of climbing so not too bothered about the grade or beach level, just want to link the bluddy thing! Monster Tide is a classic in itself.
-
Ah cool, thanks for that :)
-
Also, on a separate note, I'm in Godrevy and yesterday climbed a problem between The Sweep and Blacking Out the Friction, starting from a sitter and then going up the cracks, topping out in the niche.
It's an obvious line and not too hard, maybe soft 7A? so someone must have done it before. Does anyone know if it has a name and/or a confirmed grade?
-
Also, on a separate note, I'm in Godrevy and yesterday climbed a problem between The Sweep and Blacking Out the Friction, starting from a sitter and then going up the cracks, topping out in the niche.
It's an obvious line and not too hard, maybe soft 7A? so someone must have done it before. Does anyone know if it has a name and/or a confirmed grade?
That does sound like its been climbed. The wall under the sweep is generally a bit damp and pebble levels are often a bit high, so the bit you climbed doesn't get much attention. Did you got the lip of 'the sweep' then into the niche?
Did you notice what the pebble levels are like under 'burnt toast'?
-
I just went direct up the cracks below the niche, and then used better holds either side to top-out.
The pebble levels are low all-round I think - judging from topos, though I don't know where Burnt Toast is?
Probably opens up some possibilities under The Sweep...
-
I just went direct up the cracks below the niche, and then used better holds either side to top-out.
The pebble levels are low all-round I think - judging from topos, though I don't know where Burnt Toast is?
Probably opens up some possibilities under The Sweep...
ah ok, I thought you meant the vague cracks further left. You're describing something like a low sit start to the niche?
Burnt Toast is further right, up the steep wall. Further right again is trigonometry, which has had a rock pool under it for several years now!
-
Basically, yeah.
There also looked like a possibility for a problem underneath The Sweep? - though pebble heights might change the grade a lot.
Is there likely to be a fully extensive guide to the area coming out soon, as the only ones I have found don't cover many problems?
-
Basically, yeah.
There also looked like a possibility for a problem underneath The Sweep? - though pebble heights might change the grade a lot.
Is there likely to be a fully extensive guide to the area coming out soon, as the only ones I have found don't cover many problems?
There is an up problem, underneath the sweep and pebble levels do change the grade a lot, usually its quite hard to get a crouch start, type thing going, but more potential at the moment it seems.
Guide wise, there is an old topo on blocspenwith which combined with the one in the UK bouldering guide covers most stuff. Although the print guide gets some stuff wrong. All enthusiasm for a printed guide deserted me a few years back, but might emerge once I finish my PhD.
I'll be happy to fill in any gaps in the info you have.
-
Is there likely to be a fully extensive guide to the area coming out soon, as the only ones I have found don't cover many problems?
a jooser - what about it ? the Clodgy one is so good ;D
I think I've probably done the sitter you're referring to before, but as you say those problems are so dependent on the pebble height it's hard to compare ascents/grades! You should get Dan Varians project done to the L of the Sweep, that would raise Godrevys game :)
-
Guide wise, there is an old topo on blocspenwith which combined with the one in the UK bouldering guide covers most stuff. Although the print guide gets some stuff wrong. All enthusiasm for a printed guide deserted me a few years back, but might emerge once I finish my PhD.
I'll be happy to fill in any gaps in the info you have.
Yeah, I've looked at those two, but they both seem to miss out obvious lines that look good and must have been climbed.
Doesn't really matter too much though, as I think the documented problems will give me enough to do this week!
You should get Dan Varians project done to the L of the Sweep, that would raise Godrevys game :)
That does look good, probably too hard for me though! Have many people attempted it?
-
the other place to look for documentation of pretty much everything in the lower grades is John Hooper's guide
http://www.suesseals.eclipse.co.uk/Godrevy%20bouldering%20pdf.pdf (http://www.suesseals.eclipse.co.uk/Godrevy%20bouldering%20pdf.pdf)
-
YYFY! Finally did Mike's start to Monster Tide on Tuesday, here's some footage from the day with more Lynmouth classics in the mix. It kind of marks a move back into harder bouldering for me, so super pleased :beer2:
MonsterTideandOthers on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72771820)
-
Nice work Grant! You were dead close that day we met, it was obvious it would go down soon.
I managed a quick session the day after. Had a good time but frustratingly couldn't top out Face Off. Could get the pocket on the slab with either hand but greased off each time (felt solid 7A+ to me but it was quite still and warm). Last thing I managed a consolation prize ascent of Cyclone, which has some very cool moves and nice holds.
-
Nice work Grant! You were dead close that day we met, it was obvious it would go down soon.
I managed a quick session the day after. Had a good time but frustratingly couldn't top out Face Off. Could get the pocket on the slab with either hand but greased off each time (felt solid 7A+ to me but it was quite still and warm). Last thing I managed a consolation prize ascent of Cyclone, which has some very cool moves and nice holds.
Cheers Simon, glad you managed to get a session in and great effort on Cyclone (I found it super reachy and hard)! Good to get some input on grades, as the problems don't see much traffic and only have the opinion of a few. I think we gave Face Off 7b originally, so maybe it should settle at 7a+. Joker and the Thief is definitely a sandbag at 6c+, 7a or 7a+ maybe appropriate (although I have seen a slab master path it in trainers!).
-
Good video, and nice effort on the extension! Will be down in Lynmouth in a couple of days so certainly one to have a go at :)
-
Nice vid. I'm finally thinking of heading up on Saturday if anyone else is keen? High tide seems to be at 9am so approx how soon after high tide might things be accessible?
-
Face Off is burly, whichever way you do it. 7A+ seems right to me. I thought 7A right for Cyclone, but it is a bit reachy. I loved that little snatch off the poor sloper - great stuff!
Couple of shots of you on the Monster tide extension (the second one was sharp but Facebook seems to have blurred it - if you want a copy let me know):
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1005388_311230035688503_1833062990_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1157427_311230222355151_2044228693_n.jpg)
(One last thing - that 25% hill dropping into Porlock on the way home was 'interesting' with a fully loaded van! Had to pump the brakes at one point to stay in control!!!)
-
Nice vid. I'm finally thinking of heading up on Saturday if anyone else is keen? High tide seems to be at 9am so approx how soon after high tide might things be accessible?
SS you need to give things time to dry off, the tides are massive on Saturday and there will be a fair size swell running. I would recommend heading out around the time of low tide because whilst things maybe accessible 2 to 3 hours before low, they will still need a chance to get dry!
-
I'm finally thinking of heading up on Saturday if anyone else is keen?
Hi, me and a friend are going to be there on Saturday.
Low tide's at 3 so we'll be there from 12 until 6, roughly, if you want to meet us. :)
-
Good video, and nice effort on the extension! Will be down in Lynmouth in a couple of days so certainly one to have a go at :)
Enjoy, I'm off to Cardigan for a week on Saturday otherwise I would join you. Your opinions on grades would be welcome as well Ed.
Face Off is burly, whichever way you do it. 7A+ seems right to me. I thought 7A right for Cyclone, but it is a bit reachy. I loved that little snatch off the poor sloper - great stuff!
Couple of shots of you on the Monster tide extension (the second one was sharp but Facebook seems to have blurred it - if you want a copy let me know):
(One last thing - that 25% hill dropping into Porlock on the way home was 'interesting' with a fully loaded van! Had to pump the brakes at one point to stay in control!!!)
Thanks, would be great to get copies, I will PM you my email address.
Ahhh! He he... Porlock hill the steepest bit of A road in the land, lovely drive over the top though, isn't it.
Brilliant to see the 'backwater' getting a bit of deserved attention. :)
-
Your opinions on grades would be welcome as well Ed.
Haven't really climbed enough of the problems to be sure on what grades I would give them, though after this weekend I'll give some feedback.
I have to warn you though, my grading's not the best :lol:
-
Your opinions on grades would be welcome as well Ed.
Haven't really climbed enough of the problems to be sure on what grades I would give them, though after this weekend I'll give some feedback.
I have to warn you though, my grading's not the best :lol:
Don't worry Dave Westlake who did the first ascent of Monster Tide gave it 6b :jaw:
-
6b? :-\ :lol:
-
(One last thing - that 25% hill dropping into Porlock on the way home was 'interesting' with a fully loaded van! Had to pump the brakes at one point to stay in control!!!)
Thanks, would be great to get copies, I will PM you my email address.
Ahhh! He he... Porlock hill the steepest bit of A road in the land, lovely drive over the top though, isn't it.
Brilliant to see the 'backwater' getting a bit of deserved attention. :)
We went to Lorna Doone and the kids had a swim in a deep pool further along the river - lovely spot, expected a Hobbit to pop out of the woods. I also did a little route on Castle Rock with my son after we met - good fun and a beautiful place but some of the rock was spookily hollow! Anyway, thanks for the recs.
-
I'm finally thinking of heading up on Saturday if anyone else is keen?
Hi, me and a friend are going to be there on Saturday.
Low tide's at 3 so we'll be there from 12 until 6, roughly, if you want to meet us. :)
Excellent. I'm going to hopefully aim to get there for around 12 as well. If you spot an Ed burns look-a-like carrying an airpad that'll be me!
-
Alright :lol:
We'll probably start around the Bum Cheeks boulder as that doesn't get touched (that) much by the sea, and then work our way towards the cave area as the tide goes out :)
-
Alright :lol:
We'll probably start around the Bum Cheeks boulder as that doesn't get touched (that) much by the sea, and then work our way towards the cave area as the tide goes out :)
High tide is 9.4m, that's a biggy, swell is 4ft @ 12seconds (there'll be a small wave round there) it'll definitely get touched by the sea. However, the wind is perfect (NNW) and building throughout the day so things should dry out nicely.
-
Hello all,
I've finally resurrected and finished a mini guide that I started when I was unemployed ages ago - just in time for the bank holiday! It covers the Southern part of the Culm coast, basically the stretch around Bude (including Northcott, Sandymouth, Widemouth and others).
I've put it on ISSU here: http://issuu.com/djcwestlake/docs/southern_culm_bouldering_pdf (http://issuu.com/djcwestlake/docs/southern_culm_bouldering_pdf)
It should also be going up on Javu and probably Rock and Run fairly soon.
Many thanks to the people who helped in various ways - much appreciated.
-
Great work Dave, wish this had been around 10 years ago. For one it may have saved shurt and I near death experiences after getting cut off at Sandymouth.
-
Nice one Dave, Looks great!
-
Hello all,
I've finally resurrected and finished a mini guide that I started when I was unemployed ages ago - just in time for the bank holiday! It covers the Southern part of the Culm coast, basically the stretch around Bude (including Northcott, Sandymouth, Widemouth and others).
I've put it on ISSU here: http://issuu.com/djcwestlake/docs/southern_culm_bouldering_pdf (http://issuu.com/djcwestlake/docs/southern_culm_bouldering_pdf)
It should also be going up on Javu and probably Rock and Run fairly soon.
Many thanks to the people who helped in various ways - much appreciated.
nice one, bit of a downgrade for 'wet bootie' :( did it years ago, only to be told by Simon that we'd finished it wrong! A description in OTE said it was like Karma, which finishes left... the thing is, it isn't really like karma at all!...still it is a good problem.
-
Wow, great looking guide. Wish I could find a chance to use it.
-
Nice work dave!
Wish I'd had that a few weeks back when I was down in devon.
I went to Northcott once about 12 years ago but only had sketchy information. Be great to go back with the 'knowledge'.
-
Looks very nice. Well done!
-
I went to Northcott once about 12 years ago but only had sketchy information.
Sketches out of an old OTE? I had to make do with that too.
-
Brilliant work Dave, very slick.
'On Stranger Tides' looks amazing, definitely inspired to head down the coast for this.
Brought back some memories of great times blatting around fields in Simon's self made convertible SAAB, (amazing what you can achieve with an angle grinder), on the way down to 'Big Brother'.
-
I went to Northcott once about 12 years ago but only had sketchy information.
Sketches out of an old OTE? I had to make do with that too.
Yeah, I think it was an article by Si Young.
This time when I went I had a bit of a senior moment, confusing Hartland with Northcott. I got to Hartland Quay and thought, 'Bloody hell, I don't remember any of this!'. It was only later that I realised I'd never actually been to Hartland before... ::)
-
This looks brilliant! Cheers Dave.
-
I've mentioned this earlier in the thread but probably relevant to say this again now...
The last time I went to Northcott a BIG chunk of rock had detached itself from the Red Quinnie roof above Boy Wonder and Captain Crush it looked like this would affect these problems. The lump of rock had settled directly under Red Quinnie rendering that nigh on impossible to keep your bum off the deck.
It's been I while since I've been but I'd be interested to know if any of the problems are still climbable if anyone's been recently?
-
As others have said, cheers Dave! Great to finally know the score with all these places.
Grant, I went to Northcott about a month ago and the block under red quinnie was still there. I'd not been the roof before so no idea what effect it would have on the top of the other problems, but red qinnie itself was as you say.
There was also a honking great block under 'after the goldrush' at Duckpool. I didn't actually try it but it looked like it would make things very awkward, if it good be climbed at all. Campus mentis looked dead good though, if a little high for my liking on my own.
-
Hi folks,
I'm going to be visiting family in North Somerset this week, near Weston-super-Mare/Cheddar area and keen to get out for 1 or 2 sessions. I'm flying down and won't have a pad so would be keen to hook up with any locals if they're getting out and wouldn't mind showing me about - happy to go further afield than Somerset esoterica, and I'll have a car. PM me if you'd be keen.
Alternatively, where would you recommend for someone sans pad (soft flat landings or plenty of easy stuff)?
Ta, Gaz
-
Grant, I went to Northcott about a month ago and the block under red quinnie was still there. I'd not been the roof before so no idea what effect it would have on the top of the other problems, but red qinnie itself was as you say.
There was also a honking great block under 'after the goldrush' at Duckpool. I didn't actually try it but it looked like it would make things very awkward, if it good be climbed at all. Campus mentis looked dead good though, if a little high for my liking on my own.
Alas this is the nature of coastal bouldering, hopefully we'll get some meaty winter swell that'll shift things around a bit.
-
Alternatively, where would you recommend for someone sans pad (soft flat landings or plenty of easy stuff)?
Be about an hour plus to get there Gaz, but Bonehill is mostly low with flat and/or grassy landings.
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Bonehill/ (http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Bonehill/)
-
Cheers Chris. I'm off to Croscombe with Remus of this parish this arvo and had thought about a trip to the moor later in the week.
-
It's like dermobrasion for the fingers! Plan a bank robbery for the next day, CSI won't even get a partial.
-
Another naff video of quality problems in the SW, including J-Lo, as covered in Dave's new guide - Top Crimpers on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73169271)
-
Another naff video of quality problems in the SW, including J-Lo, as covered in Dave's new guide - Top Crimpers on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73169271)
Nice video...J_Lo looks good what grade it is?
-
7B+
Top crimped pasties are the devils work - those folk have clearly been infected by the nearby infidels over the border.
-
Another naff video of quality problems in the SW, including J-Lo, as covered in Dave's new guide
Ace. Whereabouts is the tintagel one?
-
I'm not a pastie connoisseur..... Have I been duped by those Devonian bastards?
-
I'm not from the SW - so hope this isn't wrong - but as I understand it..
The pastie should have its crust around the side. It was invented as a working man (miners) meal in one - and by having a rib of crust around one side, only the crust part need be sullied by whatever grime/grit/mining waste was on the miners hands and could thus be discarded after eating the middle bit. This is much trickier when its top crimped - possibly this design was for the white collar workers of the day ;)
-
Pasty not pastie. And yes they must be crimped on the side. And shortcrust. Preferably from the horse and jockey in Helston, though I appreciate that's not really handy for any bouldering.
-
I love the fact the SW bouldering thread has deteriorated into a discussion about pasties :)
-
Didn't think 'pastie' looked right.
Gutted that it was an invalid holiday tick, even bigger dissapointment than discovering king Arthur's castle has nothing to do with him and was built 500 years after he was supposed to have lived.
-
I love the fact the SW bouldering thread has deteriorated into a discussion about pasties :)
Deteriorated? ;)
-
This isn't about pasties, but I got back from a pretty successful trip to Lynmouth with two friends earlier this week, after managing to do quite a few of the higher-grade problems, including Womping, which I was really happy about. :)
My friend Ellis also did Womping, and added a reverse, which he has named Wimping.
In terms of grades, I would love to say that Womping was my first 7C+, but in all honesty it didn't feel that hard, soft 7C at max with the current beach levels. Ellis said that Wimping felt harder, and gave it a grade of 7C/+.
All of us also did the sit start to Twister, though we weren't sure where it started. From the tiny monos felt too hard, so we started with one hand on a mono and one in the large sidepull. We all agreed on a grade of soft 7B+ for this start.
For Slopey Traverse Extension, Cake Vs. Pie, the Lynmouth Boulder Jam Ho Down Throw Down, Face Off, Cyclone, and Coriolis Effect, the given grades seemed to be about right.
One of the problems that annoyed me the most, and that despite me trying it on 4 different occasions, I still couldn't get, was Stinky Pinky. I am just under 6 ft tall and I'm generally pretty good at dynos, but this felt impossible, or at least harder than 7B!
Oh, and here is a video of me on Womping. I was too inflexible to get a heel on so just decided to campus it as quickly as I could :P
Womping, 7C on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73319116)
-
Well, he's not too bad at dynos...
-
Well, he's not too bad at dynos...
:P
-
You might want to practice that mantling malarkey before you hit font... :lol:
-
Right Ed. Kieron and I have been watching those Mantles.
Get in here and start pulling up on to the window ledge in the training room (footless) and we'll set some mantle problems....😜😄😄
-
You might want to practice that mantling malarkey before you hit font... :lol:
Yes I might! Being basically an indoor-bred climber my experience of mantles is rather limited! :lol:
Right Ed. Kieron and I have been watching those Mantles.
Get in here and start pulling up on to the window ledge in the training room (footless) and we'll set some mantle problems....
:lol:
Alright, maybe get some different angle window ledges to mantle onto?
-
I love the fact the SW bouldering thread has deteriorated into a discussion about pasties :)
http://images.lmgtfy.com/?q=pasties (http://images.lmgtfy.com/?q=pasties) :-\
I made the similar mistake in Maple Canyon trying 'Pasties and a g-string'. I thought it was a Utah food fetish thing :slap:
-
My friend Ellis also did Womping, and added a reverse, which he has named Wimping.
In terms of grades, I would love to say that Womping was my first 7C+, but in all honesty it didn't feel that hard, soft 7C at max with the current beach levels. Ellis said that Wimping felt harder, and gave it a grade of 7C/+.
All of us also did the sit start to Twister, though we weren't sure where it started. From the tiny monos felt too hard, so we started with one hand on a mono and one in the large sidepull. We all agreed on a grade of soft 7B+ for this start.
For Slopey Traverse Extension, Cake Vs. Pie, the Lynmouth Boulder Jam Ho Down Throw Down, Face Off, Cyclone, and Coriolis Effect, the given grades seemed to be about right.
One of the problems that annoyed me the most, and that despite me trying it on 4 different occasions, I still couldn't get, was Stinky Pinky. I am just under 6 ft tall and I'm generally pretty good at dynos, but this felt impossible, or at least harder than 7B!
First off, great effort an impressive tick list for a weekend in Lyndaka.
You started Twister sit correctly; your grading is noted, can change dramatically if the footholds disappear though!
As for Stinky Pinky, it's not impossible! It might be morpho though and this case an advantage to be shorter, so being nearly 6 ft and good at dynos might not necessarily help you :whip:
-
First off, great effort an impressive tick list for a weekend in Lyndaka.
Thanks, but Lyndaka? :-\
As for Stinky Pinky, it's not impossible! It might be morpho though and this case an advantage to be shorter, so being nearly 6 ft and good at dynos might not necessarily help you :whip:
Yes that's true. Probably best not to give it a grade then.
-
You don't want grades to be given for moves that suit a longer or shorter reach?
-
First off, great effort an impressive tick list for a weekend in Lyndaka.
Thanks, but Lyndaka? :-\
As for Stinky Pinky, it's not impossible! It might be morpho though and this case an advantage to be shorter, so being nearly 6 ft and good at dynos might not necessarily help you :whip:
Yes that's true. Probably best not to give it a grade then.
Definitely says ungradeable in the guide I did.. :shrug: It's very difficult anyways.
Google Mundaka.
Did you folks get out to West as well?
-
You don't want grades to be given for moves that suit a longer or shorter reach?
Well I think for problems as morpho as this one it's hard to give it a definite grade, that doesn't mean people can't grade it themselves based on how hard it felt to them though.
Definitely says ungradeable in the guide I did.. :shrug: It's very difficult anyways.
Google Mundaka.
Did you folks get out to West as well?
It gets 7B on UKClimbing though?
Ah I see now, exactly like Lynmouth!
Yeah we did. Did the highball aretes and I tried Anarchy Arete on the right but it felt hard and quite scary!
Ellis also did the slab on the right side of Giza, which is marked as a project in the guide but I'm assuming it's been done since?
-
Ah I see now, exactly a little bit like Lynmouth!
fixed
-
Ah I see now, exactly a little bit like Lynmouth!
fixed
:lol: Not quite the same but it goes in the same direction, that's about where comparisons end.
-
Ellis also did the slab on the right side of Giza, which is marked as a project in the guide but I'm assuming it's been done since?
That depends on how far right, where he started from and which holds were used, whether the arete is avoided right to the top etc. (You got any details it's probably a FA!)
I did a low traverse of the slab L-R, starting round the corner and finishing up the right arete, over the winter. (Flesh and Blood Gods).
Looking forward to seeing a video from your weekend if you got any footage?! :popcorn:
It gets 7B on UKClimbing though?
As most folk on here will concur; don't believe everything you read on UKC (grading is always a guess).
As for Stinky Pinky. Maybe when you get older/greyer like me, you'll come to accept that you can't climb everything within your grade and that some problems just don't suit you. I'm 40 next year I have climbed up to font 7c+ (ish) in my time and I have a list as long as my arm of sub 6c problems that I haven't been able to do (yet!).
I got shut down by a 6b called Freddie's Nightmare at Mynydd Dinas just last week having done a 7c the week before, I'm not gonna call for an upgrade though. (I do need to take some advice off the Wideboys though!)
-
I love the fact the SW bouldering thread has deteriorated into a discussion about pasties :)
http://images.lmgtfy.com/?q=pasties (http://images.lmgtfy.com/?q=pasties) :-\
I'm not sure which of the two varieties I'm salivating over more.
-
Ellis also did the slab on the right side of Giza, which is marked as a project in the guide but I'm assuming it's been done since?
That depends on how far right, where he started from and which holds were used, whether the arete is avoided right to the top etc. (You got any details it's probably a FA!)
I wasn't present when he actually climbed it so unsure at the moment. I'll get back to you when I find out though.
Looking forward to seeing a video from your weekend if you got any footage?! :popcorn:
Unfortunately Womping was just about the only thing I myself managed to get footage of.
My friend managed to film a lot more though and a video may thus be on its way shortly...
As for Stinky Pinky. Maybe when you get older/greyer like me, you'll come to accept that you can't climb everything within your grade and that some problems just don't suit you. I'm 40 next year I have climbed up to font 7c+ (ish) in my time and I have a list as long as my arm of sub 6c problems that I haven't been able to do (yet!).
I got shut down by a 6b called Freddie's Nightmare at Mynydd Dinas just last week having done a 7c the week before, I'm not gonna call for an upgrade though. (I do need to take some advice off the Wideboys though!)
I understand totally what you're saying, especially in light of the fact that I still haven't been able to do Face Off.
The main difference in your given scenario and my own, however, is that the problem you were unable to do doesn't seem to fit your style, whereas the problem I was unable to do should fit my style rather well.
-
The main difference in your given scenario and my own, however, is that the problem you were unable to do doesn't seem to fit your style, whereas the problem I was unable to do should fit my style.
:shrug: Not sure where this is going Ed, either you're implying the dyno hasn't been done or that you would like it to be given a grade to reflect the fact that you're struggling with it?
-
Hi there SW boulders.
I'm not a frequent climber any more, but have just returned from Font, where I had a great time bouldering with my kids (aged 10 and 11). I'd love to keep this going with them.
Please can you recommend SW crags, that will have a good number of lower grade problems. Is there a suitable guide book that covers the area?
Thanks.
-
:wave: Hello Cooknell!
www.javu.co.uk (http://www.javu.co.uk) is the fountain of knowledge for most things on the SW peninsular, loads of guides and such can be found there.
Your best bet is probably gonna be Bonehill on Dartmoor, it might not quite live up to the standard you've been enjoying in Bleau but it's a lovely spot and very accessible.
-
Please can you recommend SW crags, that will have a good number of lower grade problems. Is there a suitable guide book that covers the area?
Whereabouts are you based ?
Grimers 'boulder britain' guide gives details on all the main spots with plenty of info to get you there and point you at the main blocs
-
Thanks for the help guys. I am based in Somerset, not far from Cheddar.
-
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Smallacombe/index.shtml (http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Smallacombe/index.shtml)
has a lot of lower grade stuff too. lovely spot, but prepare to get lost looking for specific problems.
-
Does anyone know anything about the bouldering at Duckworth Pool? I found a very cool overhanging wall, which I'm sure has been climbed and looks about 7A/+.
-
Where's that to bey?
-
Oi've never 'eard of it noither.
-
Sorry, I made it up. It's DuckPool Beach. Located here (https://www.google.co.uk/maps/preview#!data=!1m4!1m3!1d2170!2d-4.5588613!3d50.875251!2m1!1e3&fid=7)
-
Oi've never 'eardof ov it noither neever.
-
It's the first crag in Dave's new guide - http://issuu.com/djcwestlake/docs/southern_culm_bouldering_pdf (http://issuu.com/djcwestlake/docs/southern_culm_bouldering_pdf)
Probably Campus Mentis?
-
Heading to the culm coast next week for a 3 day mid-week rampage! Properly psyched :bounce: Any further advice on which are the unmissable problems? 6C-7C.
-
I'd vote;
Hartland - carnage, ache ball and clinical edge
Northcott - j-lo
Big Brother - natural born killer
You'll be wanting two pads, a towel, and lots of chalk for most of them.
-
Any further advice on which are the unmissable problems? 6C-7C.
Add in Varmint 7a, The Pinch 7a, Soul Structure 6c and Wet Bootie 7b , see Dave's Southern Culm guide for details...
And Trench Eliminate 7a, Corridors of Power 7c and Freddie Freeloader 6c+ at Hartland.
Would be a very decent (quality wise) tick list indeed, come to think of it Campus Mentis is pretty cool too!
My money is on Carnage being the star of the show and IMHO it should be at the top of your hit list.
-
My money is on Carnage being the star of the show and IMHO it should be at the top of your hit list.
Definitely agree with this.
I checked out wet bootie a few weeks ago and there was a big block under it making it even more lowball than usual.
-
I checked out wet bootie a few weeks ago and there was a big block under it making it even more lowball than usual.
We really need Huey to get to work this winter and shift some of these blocks out of the way. Would be nice to have some decent surf too!
-
You are really not in a position to complain. Last notable surf here was June.
-
You are really not in a position to complain. Last notable surf here was June.
Sorry Chris. :boohoo: Mustn't grumble! You do have some epic breaks in your vicinity though.
-
What, Aberdeen? Nowt epic here, furthest i venture is Moray Coast these days :boohoo:
-
I'd vote;
Hartland - carnage, ache ball and clinical edge
Northcott - j-lo
Big Brother - natural born killer
You'll be wanting two pads, a towel, and lots of chalk for most of them.
Any further advice on which are the unmissable problems? 6C-7C.
Add in Varmint 7a, The Pinch 7a, Soul Structure 6c and Wet Bootie 7b , see Dave's Southern Culm guide for details...
And Trench Eliminate 7a, Corridors of Power 7c and Freddie Freeloader 6c+ at Hartland.
Would be a very decent (quality wise) tick list indeed, come to think of it Campus Mentis is pretty cool too!
My money is on Carnage being the star of the show and IMHO it should be at the top of your hit list.
Cheers guys. We went to Hartland on last years trip and did Carnage, clinical edge, trench eliminate etc. Thought Carnage was one of the best problems I've ever done. Will def check out Varmint, the pinch and soul structure. Is it worth a visit to upton purely to do Wet Booty? Any stuff to warm up on there?
-
Is it worth a visit to upton purely to do Wet Booty? Any stuff to warm up on there?
Sorry, slow reply. Might be too late. There is basically nothing else of note down there, a few bits to bimble about on but nothing significant enough to remember (it's been a while). It is a good problem but that really is it. If only Upton roof was still there, that was bloody brilliant!
-
Along wit the Steamboat did a SW bouldering tour this week. Contending with adverse weather we managed to take in Northcott, The Barn, a wet Burrator/combe tor, Tintagel and Lynmouth. Excellent stuff!
Wondered if anyone has done the low start to Blue Ray? Didn't manage it but interested to know the grade. this started down and LEFT. cheers
Will attempt to piece a little vid together soon.
-
Cheers for recommending some probs guys. Was a good mini-trip, didn't make it to Upton as the weather crapped out. I thought Red Quinne traverse was great (big block made it a bit awkward but not that bad really), the moves on J-lo damn cool but I didn't really get the appeal of the pinch.
-
South West Tour 2013 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/74705367)
Some South West Love :)
-
Awesome video :)
Must get myself to some of these places!
-
little low qual video of my bouldering around Bristol and South West this summer :-) https://vimeo.com/76252889
-
Happy to say I have climbed 'evening song' up on Carn Brea, which I think is the FA. It's the longstanding sit start project to 'evening son'. It adds about 7 moves to the original stand up. I have a video if anyone fancies buying me a pint for the beta, its complex! Gradewise It's somewhere in the 7b/7c bracket. Its been mooted as a possible 7c, but it did feel easier to me once I had the right beta.
-
Nice work Andy, great tick, new hardest problem for Carn Brea :2thumbsup:
Cannot wait for me knee to get better and have a go at it :)
-
I have put details of directions and woodland navigation for Bovey Woods on the Shaptor wiki site so you now have no excuses for getting lost. Despite all the rain we've had recently, quite a lot was dry enough to climb on Saturday.
http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/page/Directions (http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/page/Directions)
-
Nice one Tom, particularly helpful parking beta. :)
-
Awesome :)
-
Little bit of footage from Saddle Tor in January.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXMcoU4FkR0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXMcoU4FkR0)
-
Just been for a walk to Upton and the start of Wet Bootie is now burried under a pile of large stones!
Could take a while to clear out alternatively another good tide and it may all disappear!
Could be a fair few problems affected down these parts only time will tell I guess!
Cheers
Macca
-
Little bit of footage from Saddle Tor in January.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXMcoU4FkR0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXMcoU4FkR0)
Thanks for posting.
Does it often get that busy up there?!
-
Little bit of footage from Saddle Tor in January.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXMcoU4FkR0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXMcoU4FkR0)
Thanks for posting.
Does it often get that busy up there?!
Definitely not a typical day at Saddle Tor or any Tor for that matter. A bit of a gathering was organized to bring in the New Year. The rain thinned out the numbers in the afternoon but it was drying out pretty fast after the squalls and the hardcore of us kept going into dark.
-
Just been for a walk to Upton and the start of Wet Bootie is now burried under a pile of large stones!
Could take a while to clear out alternatively another good tide and it may all disappear!
Thanks Macca.. There was a big block sat under it before the storms, I was hoping that all the activity would clear it out not make it worse!
In the unlikely event that anyone should decide to boulder down at Sillery Sands, Exmoor Coast. The steps to access the beach have been washed away and it is dangerous/ impossible to climb down, a stake and a rope would help.
-
Bouldering in Godrevy from a couple weeks back.
Conditions weren't perfect, so didn't get to try some stuff I would've liked to.
Still, managed to get footage of a few things.
Thanks to Andy W for showing me around :)
www.vimeo.com/89447112 (http://www.vimeo.com/89447112)
-
Nice one Ed, did you tick all those problems in a session? Good to see you got a chance to do trigonometry, I love that problem, such a shame most of the time there is a massive rock pool under it.
-
Nic Ed. Good vid, thanks for sharing. looks like you made the most of the conditions. I need to to get down there!
-
Nice vid Ed!
Some updates for some coastal bouldering venues in the SW. The big storms and tides were bound to take their toll or create something new.
I hear on the grapevine that boulders at Tintagel have been reshuffled, they are big blocs but it appears the waves had no problem shifting stuff around. Some old problems are now rendered un-doable and there are apparently lots of new lines to be had... go check it out! Mother nature's been re-setting!
Lynmouth levels have changed considerably in places, the zawn with Chimpanzee Achne, Time and Tide etc. has filled right up, highballs are now relatively lowball - a good time to get those top-outs wired! Face off has block under it hampering the start again and the beach level is high on this bloc, you can claim the ticks if you want but you know you're only doing half a problem!
Northcott, Hartland and Dartmoor seem to be unaffected.
Mentioned before - Sillery Sands is not accessible safely via the zig-zag path with out rope tactics.
Anyone been anywhere else that has changed?
-
I hear on the grapevine that boulders at Tintagel have been reshuffled, they are big blocs but it appears the waves had no problem shifting stuff around. Some old problems are now rendered un-doable and there are apparently lots of new lines to be had... go check it out! Mother nature's been re-setting!
wow! If that's true then that's some impressive re-shuffling.
-
Unbelievably, considering the number of huge trees that have fallen over the Winter, it looks as though the boulders in Bovey Woods have escaped more or less unscathed.
-
Crazy Tintagel blocks has move, they are huge!
-
Went to Tintagel North today.
First time there so not sure on the extent of what's changed.
However, the start of Kids is now covered in boulders and so is undoable :thumbsdown: :wavecry::
(http://i60.tinypic.com/i525no.jpg)
And it looks like the boulders covering it have come from underneath the Purple Haze boulder, making the starts of the problems interesting:
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2yuby3p.jpg)
Most of the other problems seem to have remained unchanged, though like I said I can't be totally sure.
On a separate note, is the topo for Pink Floyd in Boulder Britain correct? I followed the line shown in the guide but it felt more like 6B+ than 7A!
-
The bottom of the purple haze boulder looks like it might be better after the storms, I've only been once but it looks like it might make lower starts etc?
The storms didn't cause that much damage down here, at least not at Clodgy and Godrevy, I haven't been elsewhere yet.
-
Wonderland 7C+/8A - First Ascent (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcNmkqqRghc#ws)
Wonderland - new 7C+/8A in West Penwith - looks ace!
Looks like some good new starts to be done to the Purple haze boulder :bounce:
-
Tintagel Update:
Some good and bad news I guess, but I would say that most the changes at Tintagel have been for the better.
Bad News:
- Kids is no longer
- Colorado Dreaming has changed angle, it is now lower to the ground and the feet maybe better, top out is easier. I would say probably easier than its previous state but at similar grade. On the up side it is more open in the cave as boulders to left have gone meaning it is likely to be drier more often.
Good news:
- Lots of new easier lines to go at dotted about the place.
- left of kids is a corridor of new rock opened up, makes a good warm up/eliminates wall.
- Best of all the purple haze bloc has finally been opened up, I have been dreaming of this since first finding the place. Now one of my favourite boulders on the coast! Topo with the main lines on can be found here... https://www.dropbox.com/s/ya15ch38nwupg2z/Topo.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/ya15ch38nwupg2z/Topo.jpg) (sorry dont know how to import images).
Green – Hurler SDS V8: start sitting on low shelf follow the rail to the ledge and a tricky rockover. Take a big bucket to empty the rock pool below.
White – Project: sitter into undercut…
Red – The AWOL Apprentice V9? Start matched on lowest rail follow holds in the seam. Amazing maybe the best V9 on the coast. A variation finishes up purple haze at a similar grade.
Purple – All along the Watchtower V8: Start up Purple haze traverse the lip using a rose move into and up The AWOL Apprentice.
Yellow – Purple Haze V6
Blue – V8: Traverse from Hurler into the start of Purple Haze, after the crux break out left along jugs. Climbs really well.
-
Tintagel Update:
Some good and bad news I guess, but I would say that most the changes at Tintagel have been for the better.
Bad News:
- Kids is no longer
- Colorado Dreaming has changed angle, it is now lower to the ground and the feet maybe better, top out is easier. I would say probably easier than its previous state but at similar grade. On the up side it is more open in the cave as boulders to left have gone meaning it is likely to be drier more often.
Good news:
- Lots of new easier lines to go at dotted about the place.
- left of kids is a corridor of new rock opened up, makes a good warm up/eliminates wall.
- Best of all the purple haze bloc has finally been opened up, I have been dreaming of this since first finding the place. Now one of my favourite boulders on the coast! Topo with the main lines on can be found here... https://www.dropbox.com/s/ya15ch38nwupg2z/Topo.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/ya15ch38nwupg2z/Topo.jpg) (sorry dont know how to import images).
Green – Hurler SDS V8: start sitting on low shelf follow the rail to the ledge and a tricky rockover. Take a big bucket to empty the rock pool below.
White – Project: sitter into undercut…
Red – The AWOL Apprentice V9? Start matched on lowest rail follow holds in the seam. Amazing maybe the best V9 on the coast. A variation finishes up purple haze at a similar grade.
Purple – All along the Watchtower V8: Start up Purple haze traverse the lip using a rose move into and up The AWOL Apprentice.
Yellow – Purple Haze V6
Blue – V8: Traverse from Hurler into the start of Purple Haze, after the crux break out left along jugs. Climbs really well.
Looks good
-
Nice one Tom, good info. and problems on Purple haze block look awesome!
Anyone want to do some babysitting so I can go and check it out?!
-
Guess this is in the right place? Some new problems in Dorset...
Before Ava Arrives (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqgSc_mYmjg#ws)
The Den Mark II (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3Ij1gKs39Y#)
-
Guess this is in the right place? Some new problems in Dorset...
Gotta love a bit of Zeds Dead.
-
New problem at Saddle Tor courtesy of Mikey C.
Saddle Tor - Foul Play V10 - First Ascent (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwRi0ePMS-8#ws)
-
And a little film of me on Carnage at Hartland Quay.
http://youtu.be/wG941DAvPkY (http://youtu.be/wG941DAvPkY)
-
A shameless plug for my blog...
http://tomrainbow99.wordpress.com/2014/04/27/off-the-beaten-track-a-decade-of-bouldering-in-bovey-woods/ (http://tomrainbow99.wordpress.com/2014/04/27/off-the-beaten-track-a-decade-of-bouldering-in-bovey-woods/)
-
I was in the Woods today incidentally!
Nice read :)
-
Thanks...bet it was horrible today!
-
Haha yes not in amazing condition... :lol:
-
Nice blog post Tom. I must say that Bovey Woods was one of the places I was most excited about (and still am) when I moved down to Devon last year but sadly injury and lack of time have restricted me to the odd evening at Chudleigh and Bonehill.
Massive respect to you for all the effort you've put in and I'm keen to get down there next season when I've got more time. I might pay a visit this weekend to scope out some stuff, would be ace to meet up with anyone who knows the area a bit. :please:
-
I might pay a visit this weekend to scope out some stuff, would be ace to meet up with anyone who knows the area a bit. :please:
I will probably be going to the Woods either on Saturday or Sunday.
Don't know the area that well but can show you around some stuff. :)
I'll message you closer to the time to say when I'll be there.
-
Good write up. Wish I'd known more about it when I lived down that way
One thing that has surprised me since I started climbing in the woods is just how reluctant the majority of climbers are to put in a bit of effort and have an explore
I hear you on that one though!
-
:rtfm: :rtfm:
Nice blog post Tom. I must say that Bovey Woods was one of the places I was most excited about (and still am) when I moved down to Devon last year but sadly injury and lack of time have restricted me to the odd evening at Chudleigh and Bonehill.
Massive respect to you for all the effort you've put in and I'm keen to get down there next season when I've got more time. I might pay a visit this weekend to scope out some stuff, would be ace to meet up with anyone who knows the area a bit. :please:
Thanks for the kind words. I would be happy to show you around but am busy this weekend unfortunately. Hope you get something done this weekend.
-
Good day at Godrevy today.
Literally everything was wet apart from Crack Pot, the thing I wanted to try the most. Couldn't have been more lucky!
Not sure if it's had any other ascents since the hold breakage over the winter.
Originally given 7B+ and though it's definitely harder, I don't think it warrants 7C.
I don't have much experience of problems at 7B+/C though.
Here's a vid for beta:
Crack Pot - 7B+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/96499379)
-
Nice one Ed, think that is the first repeat since the breakage. Like your start ,will have to try that. I had a session on it last Thursday, with Andy and thought it felt tough for 7B+, think it is feels 7B+ if you are 7C strong and 7C if you are 7B+ strong. Either way it is a great power problem, well done.
-
Nice one Ed, think that is the first repeat since the breakage. Like your start ,will have to try that. I had a session on it last Thursday, with Andy and thought it felt tough for 7B+, think it is feels 7B+ if you are 7C strong and 7C if you are 7B+ strong. Either way it is a great power problem, well done.
Cheers. :)
Good luck trying it.
-
Yes, well done Ed. I had repeated it a few weeks earlier, but I don't think the broken hold has made much difference. Glad to see another opinion on the grade too.
-
Anyone been to Duckpool recently? Am I right in thinking that quite a few problems have been buried/shifted by the winter storms? It was my first visit but I failed to find the after the gold rush block and there was a massive pile of what looked like freshly fallen blocks where I expected it might be. Varmint was still fine but the 6c just next to it has gone.
-
Not been since last year but wouldn't be surprised.. There has been a lot of movement all round the coast.
-
More missing stuff to report I'm afraid!
Down at Higher Long Beak just North of Big Brother the right hand side of the wall has collapsed burying around 6 good quality micro routes / highballs.
This includes Tom's Spratt and the lovely corner line of Ickle Fissure. The excellent and scary slab stepping off the perched boulder is also sadly no more!
Real loss to the local area along with the routes on the mines a point stack which is unfortunately bow half the stack it used to be!
Cheers Macca
-
Real loss to the local area along with the routes on the mines a point stack which is unfortunately bow half the stack it used to be!
Now known as Mine's a Half.
Do Iain Peters or Mark Kemball and the guidebook team know about this?
-
Cool vid of some south-west problems.
South of the Border (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLlTLS6SPhA#ws)
-
Hamish Potokar cruising Supercede Sit-Start.
Supercede 8A Hartland on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/102623489)
-
Does anyone know a link for the Tintagel bouldering topo, the rock and run link seems to have gone blank?
-
Heh Andy. There is a link on the previous page of this thread but it's not working!!
Try here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/ (http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/) scroll down the page, topo and information is all there for Purple Haze boulder.
-
We got washed off the purple haze boulder, so spent some time in the blue ray cave. I did a line left of blue ray starting on a low pocket, pretty much as far left and low as you can get, then some minging crimps and side pull to get on to easier ground. Definitely separate line from blue ray, is this a problem do you know/
also blue ray starts on good holds? or does it start lower on poor holds for the 6C?
On another note the Purple haze boulder is looking brilliant!
-
Lost black 5.10 team at tintagel, somewhere under the blue ray problem. I think I left it there last Sunday
-
Mikey Cleverdon on the excellent looking AWOL Apprentice
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152404816316464 (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152404816316464)
hopefully not private
-
Mikey Cleverdon on the excellent looking AWOL Apprentice
'tis rather good.
-
Hi All
Can confirm the Duckpool massacre as described above. The pretty much everything has gone before you reach the wow slab. Jammed pebble has held out somehow but everything else is buried under a rather large landslide! You could still climb the last foot of Gold Rush if you dig out a bit! A real gutter!
Also as reported the problem to the right of Varmint is no longer and the beach level is really high on Varmint at the moment. Excellent problem thou!
Sorry to be the bearer of more bad news.
Cheers
Macca
-
Cant remember if I mentioned it previously but wet bootie is also unclimbable as the bottom is filled in with rather large rocks another massive loss!
Cheers
Macca
-
This might have slipped under the radar:
Dartmoor Bouldering Trip - Aug 2014 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/106979513)
I'm not sure what is more impressive, rocking up and snatching these obvious FA's, only having one spotter on "osillations", or apparently climbing 3 days in a row on the moor! Massive respect for all 3. Looking forward to trying and failing on these problems over the winter. Cheers Mike!
-
Short video of a variant and two link ups at Biblins and Dinas Rock, nothing special and not really south west but good if you're local or want a hard training problem. https://vimeo.com/108008604
-
Posted this in non-quality bouldering videos, but posting here as well.
All problems are quality and worth seeking out.
Coastal Classics on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/108840787)
-
I'd tell you you're looking strong Ed, but then GME would tell me I'm hindering your development.....
8A by summer?
'Reckon you got at least 8B before your 18th birthday!
And can we legitimately say the Orange you and Rory set on the Core wall is around 8A as you haven't finished it yet?
Tell Ellis he's damn strong, then ask him why he hasn't manage 8C yet (or 9a) because he's more than capable.
-
8A in Font at the end of this month is the plan! :boxing:
Yeah that orange is hard, 8A+? :lol:
-
8A in Font at the end of this month is the plan! :boxing:
Yeah that orange is hard, 8A+? :lol:
😄
On to glory!
-
What are the chances of the purple haze boulder being dry on Sat, does it seep?
-
What are the chances of the purple haze boulder being dry on Sat, does it seep?
Heh Andy... Shouldn't be a problem with seepage. Think the problem will be tide and swell on Saturday, with high tide being around the middle of the day and quite a lot of swell running the boulder could get wet. The good thing is the tides are relatively small. Good breeze from the SW will dry things out though. 50/50 :shrug:
-
What are the chances of the purple haze boulder being dry on Sat, does it seep?
Heh Andy... Shouldn't be a problem with seepage. Think the problem will be tide and swell on Saturday, with high tide being around the middle of the day and quite a lot of swell running the boulder could get wet. The good thing is the tides are relatively small. Good breeze from the SW will dry things out though. 50/50 :shrug:
Yea, high tide at mid-day with a swell, doesn't look that good does it? early or wait for the tide to go out. I've allready lost a shoe down there, with strong gusts forecast, I may lose a pad as well!
-
Strange damage/vandalism at Carn Brea
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=602276 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=602276)
-
Mikey Cleverdon has done THE proper sit down start to Something and Nothing (V8/9) / Catching the Wave (V11) on the Wave boulder at Bonehill. Was with him last night utilizing the last of the cold conditions for the time being. His problem starts with your bum on the floor with right hand on a poor undercut and left in hold in break below the starting hold on Catching the Wave (feet on back wall). It then moves into Catching the Wave, however this forces a different sequence which probably makes the CtW/S&N section harder too. It's called Peahi.
Anyhow, totally inspiring to witness and I suspect, despite Mikey down playing the grade, that this really could be a contender for the hardest straight up problem on Dartmoor and perhaps the South West.
-
More info. here http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/index.shtml (http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/index.shtml)
-
Mikey Cleverdon has done THE proper sit down start to Something and Nothing (V8/9) / Catching the Wave (V11) on the Wave boulder at Bonehill. Was with him last night utilizing the last of the cold conditions for the time being. His problem starts with your bum on the floor with right hand on a poor undercut and left in hold in break below the starting hold on Catching the Wave (feet on back wall). It then moves into Catching the Wave, however this forces a different sequence which probably makes the CtW/S&N section harder too. It's called Peahi.
Anyhow, totally inspiring to witness and I suspect, despite Mikey down playing the grade, that this really could be a contender for the hardest straight up problem on Dartmoor and perhaps the South West.
So are there 3 problems that take the same line, each separated by 2 moves and that all have different names?
No wonder I always get confused what's what at Bonehill! I remember when I climbed the wave I found out when I got home that I started it one break lower down than it's meant to which explained why it felt harder than V6!
-
So are there 3 problems that take the same line, each separated by 2 moves and that all have different names?
No wonder I always get confused what's what at Bonehill! I remember when I climbed the wave I found out when I got home that I started it one break lower down than it's meant to which explained why it felt harder than V6!
Fair point... Soft on the G, Full Power, Ache Ball.. No wonder I always get confused what's what at Gardoms. :ras:
Without detracting from the efforts of the Squirrel and Stretch Adams, (bearing in mind I am commenting from a totally biased position) I believe this line is very significant for this area, (nationally significant even) it was a long term concept and then project for Mikey (continuing to try it whilst others have started it from different positions) and was the obvious 'complete' line direct up the left face of the wave, not wishing to throw too much love at the Pikey... this has all been done having recovered from a stroke, the level of commitment and tenacity is quite inspirational. Too right, he's gonna give that a name! :strongbench:
-
Yes, not meaning to detract from the achievement.
Probably not a good time to bring up the oddities of naming sit starts to problems, I'm sure it's all been covered before on here?! I'm boring and would just add 'sit' to name of the stand personally but I suppose this is an odd situation where the original 'stand' looks to have started off of a block?
Regardless of all that, great effort and always good to have new problems to try in the South West.
Oh and is there a video of the ascent? Would be a good watch.
-
Yeah, both 'stands' start off blocks, Stretch's being a higher block than Squirls... Peahi starts with bum on the ground.
Will be interesting to see how soon/if it gets a repeat and opinions on the grade bearing in mind the high stand was given 7C initially and the lower stand 8a. (The moves off the floor are not easy and the sequence you're then forced into is harder too).
Btw The Wave always feels harder than V6, starting from lower is even harder, however start it a few moves over to the left at you will have done Tsunami so it's all good practice!
-
Mikey Cleverdon has done THE proper sit down start to Something and Nothing (V8/9) / Catching the Wave (V11) on the Wave boulder at Bonehill.
Waddage!
-
Mikey Cleverdon has done THE proper sit down start to Something and Nothing (V8/9) / Catching the Wave (V11) on the Wave boulder at Bonehill.
Waddage!
Precisely. :agree:
-
nice one Mike!
-
And on a less positive note. I went to Clodgy today and I’m reluctant to say but am pretty certain a hold has been chipped on ‘Boomerang’ 7A+ at Clodgy Point, St Ives. As a first ascentionist and the fact that I’ve climbed this problem many times, familiarity suggests its been chipped. It doesn’t show any evidence that a storm may have have thrown up a rock or waves removed stone. Looking at the photo it appears pretty blatantly intentional, the fact that it makes a perfect hold in just the right place to make the problem easier, suggests some ignorant f..ck has chipped it.
What can one say, not a lot, but there are sure some ignorant fools out bouldering these days. I of course as an old fart blame indoor walls.
-
I of course as an old fart blame indoor walls.
I'd be surprised if most of the youths these days even own the tools to chip holds. Of all the problems I've climbed in the past with chipped holds, they all seem to have been chipped a long time ago, implying it's the old farts chipping holds!
(yes I'm bitter because I'm a wall-bred climber)
-
And on a less positive note. I went to Clodgy today and I’m reluctant to say but am pretty certain a hold has been chipped on ‘Boomerang’ 7A+ at Clodgy Point, St Ives. As a first ascentionist and the fact that I’ve climbed this problem many times, familiarity suggests its been chipped. It doesn’t show any evidence that a storm may have have thrown up a rock or waves removed stone. Looking at the photo it appears pretty blatantly intentional, the fact that it makes a perfect hold in just the right place to make the problem easier, suggests some ignorant f..ck has chipped it.
What can one say, not a lot, but there are sure some ignorant fools out bouldering these days. I of course as an old fart blame indoor walls.
Boomerang is classic. That sucks. So gutting when it happens to your own problems.
Foothold has got suspiciously larger on Joker and the Thief at Lynmouth, could be storm damage but it would be a one in the million for damage to hit that one tiny spot. Thought that being in a relative bouldering back water we would avoid some of this shit.
-
link to pics here
http://andywhall.com/2015/01/02/boomerang-chipped/ (http://andywhall.com/2015/01/02/boomerang-chipped/)
and there was this a few weeks ago related maybe?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=602276 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=602276)
-
And on a less positive note. I went to Clodgy today and I’m reluctant to say but am pretty certain a hold has been chipped on ‘Boomerang’ 7A+ at Clodgy Point, St Ives. As a first ascentionist and the fact that I’ve climbed this problem many times, familiarity suggests its been chipped. It doesn’t show any evidence that a storm may have have thrown up a rock or waves removed stone. Looking at the photo it appears pretty blatantly intentional, the fact that it makes a perfect hold in just the right place to make the problem easier, suggests some ignorant f..ck has chipped it.
What can one say, not a lot, but there are sure some ignorant fools out bouldering these days. I of course as an old fart blame indoor walls.
Boomerang is classic. That sucks. So gutting when it happens to your own problems.
Foothold has got suspiciously larger on Joker and the Thief at Lynmouth, could be storm damage but it would be a one in the million for damage to hit that one tiny spot. Thought that being in a relative bouldering back water we would avoid some of this shit.
It's puzzling, as "going equipped to chip" seems pretty strange.
Suggests someone who has been, tried, failed and gone back with intent?
Generally, people have a brush, not a hammer.
Blaming the "yoof" is probably a little simplistic, surely the action of a deluded individual and nothing new?
After all, you don't get to reset a problem at the wall because you can't do it.
-
And on a less positive note. I went to Clodgy today and I’m reluctant to say but am pretty certain a hold has been chipped on ‘Boomerang’ 7A+ at Clodgy Point, St Ives. As a first ascentionist and the fact that I’ve climbed this problem many times, familiarity suggests its been chipped. It doesn’t show any evidence that a storm may have have thrown up a rock or waves removed stone. Looking at the photo it appears pretty blatantly intentional, the fact that it makes a perfect hold in just the right place to make the problem easier, suggests some ignorant f..ck has chipped it.
What can one say, not a lot, but there are sure some ignorant fools out bouldering these days. I of course as an old fart blame indoor walls.
Boomerang is classic. That sucks. So gutting when it happens to your own problems.
Foothold has got suspiciously larger on Joker and the Thief at Lynmouth, could be storm damage but it would be a one in the million for damage to hit that one tiny spot. Thought that being in a relative bouldering back water we would avoid some of this shit.
It's puzzling, as "going equipped to chip" seems pretty strange.
Suggests someone who has been, tried, failed and gone back with intent?
Generally, people have a brush, not a hammer.
Blaming the "yoof" is probably a little simplistic, surely the action of a deluded individual and nothing new?
After all, you don't get to reset a problem at the wall because you can't do it.
Matt have you looked at the photo? The damage is certainly hold improvement beyond the scope of a brush. I'm not saying its a youth done the chipping, but my guess is its a youngster with more ambition than sense. Also down this way you do see some strange things, there is less of a scene thus its possible for people to get less knowledge, ethics etc from older climbers and peers. The walls down here are also not that great and do I'm afraid to say generate some of the aforementioned 'strange things'
-
Yeah, I saw the pictures.
Sad.
Seems most likely to be a local though (I grew up in St Tudy), it's a long way to go, fail and go back with a chisel.
That was my point about the brush.
Who goes to a new crag, equipped to make their own problems?
Isn't the nearest wall in Truro? And one in Newquay? Not visited any of them yet so know nothing about them.
I really struggle to grasp why anyone would do it. I can see they did and can't fathom any reason for a non-climber doing it, but how can anyone think it's a valid way of climbing a problem?
It has to be someone very, very strange.
Someone deluded as to their status as a "climber".
-
Alas, unless someone is caught in the act, will never know who or why...
I was in Font quite a few years ago, the morning after a disgruntled local (called Luke?) had just lost it and chipped several classic problems (inc. Carnage and Karma). He had some sort of beef with a local climbing organisation/ club and clearly some mental health issues.
Point being; Could be for any number of reasons and not necessarily to make the problem easier or harder.
-
The morning after. I'm prepared to accept that the chipping may not be the work of a 'wall bred youth'. But I still think that its been done by someone with the intention of making the problem easier, positioning and size etc indicate this. Mainly though I'm more saddened.
-
These two look good:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qb7xM7WvhcA
-
Two mini Duels.
-
The youth is on fire at the minute. 8)
-
Well impressed with this! They both look utterly desparate. :great:
-
http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/mikey-cleverdon-sends-dartmoor-8a-fa-waterhouse-repeats/ (http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/mikey-cleverdon-sends-dartmoor-8a-fa-waterhouse-repeats/)
Another 8a for the moor... This time Mikey's done the sitter to Super Trooper. Quick repeat by Alex Waterhouse. :strongbench:
-
Incidentally, anyone visiting Saddle Tor and wondering why on earth problem 6 and the traverse feel utterly desperate. It's because a hold has broken off, what remains is apparently a teeny, tiny and very sharp crimp. At the moment the consensus is to leave it as is and see if anyone manages to crank on said tiny crimp.
-
http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/mikey-cleverdon-sends-dartmoor-8a-fa-waterhouse-repeats/ (http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/mikey-cleverdon-sends-dartmoor-8a-fa-waterhouse-repeats/)
Another 8a for the moor... This time Mikey's done the sitter to Super Trooper. Quick repeat by Alex Waterhouse. :strongbench:
Super Trooper was my Dartmoor nemesis.
Even Ed Gow-Smith hasn't finished it. The sitter is just nuts hard.
-
Incidentally, anyone visiting Saddle Tor and wondering why on earth problem 6 and the traverse feel utterly desperate. It's because a hold has broken off, what remains is apparently a teeny, tiny and very sharp crimp. At the moment the consensus is to leave it as is and see if anyone manages to crank on said tiny crimp.
I thought problem 6 was Super Trooper?
And isn't that part of the traverse "Abba Gold"?
This might be because I'm using Grimer's book, not the Javu topo...
-
I thought problem 6 was Super Trooper?
And isn't that part of the traverse "Abba Gold"?
This might be because I'm using Grimer's book, not the Javu topo...
Yep. Was referring to the cycling butty dodger's website not Boulder Britain.
All is not lost, Saddle Tor traverse can still be linked by taking a higher a line and dropping down into it's finish at a similar grade.
A lot of people are touting Super Trooper as being V9, still on my ever growing list of to dos.
-
At the moment the consensus is to leave it as is and see if anyone manages to crank on said tiny crimp.
I totally get the rationale for this view. Personally though I wouldn't be adverse to the old hold being neatly glued back on (it's pretty intact), but I suppose this is the Moor not the Tor.
-
There has been a lot of activity up at the Nutcrackers at Lustleigh on Dartmoor over the last few weekends.
New problems have been unearthed and the established problems have had a good clean.
Work started with some additions to established boulders and since then has moved into full on unearthing and cleaning mode! Nothing of a huge grade has been done as yet but some classy problems have been sent. All of the new stuff is listed under the crag on the other channel but the highlights of the new stuff includes.
Cowboy Butcher
Careless Whisper sit and stand
Conscientious Twix
Bear Arete
Clockwork Orange
There is a video below done by a group who have done a lot of the cleaning and new problems and many thanks go to them for all there hard work.
Lustleigh (the Nutcrakers) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5M_wpBRiDw#ws)
Any feedback on the grades would be appreciated as none of us can seem to agree on anything!
Hope to see you up there!
Cheers Macca
-
Can confirm that these new things are good and the cleaned-up old stuff is not half bad either. This could be one of the better bouldering venues on the moor with a bit more traffic. I messaged you on the other channel as well! Did a problem not on the list on the warm up boulder at the far right hand end. Really cool move, dynoing from undercuts. Prob been done and don't care about retro-claiming but thought others might like it.
-
I should add: Thanks to those who put in the effort with the cleaning. Appreciated.
-
Hi
Thanks for the message and glad you enjoyed it up there yesterday. I presume you were one of the pair we passed on the warm up boulder and then saw again later?
It is a good spot and now has a really nice circuit of problems. I will stick that line on the list.
Thanks for the feedback and hope to see you up there soon.
Cheers
Macca
-
Yeah that was us. I presume you were one of the big team that was there.
Good name by the way ;)
-
These two look good:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qb7xM7WvhcA
Repeated Hypothesis today, great problem (if, as ever on the moor, a little sharp...) 7C seems fair.
-
Some footage from Huntsham, just about scrapes in as south west https://vimeo.com/121618007
-
Nice work James! Good to see goliath get finished off after your near misses.
-
Was there a team down in Bovey Woods yesterday?
Looked like there might have been a few in the Devon Sent area? Hope it went well if my suspicions are right. Its was glorious in there!
Would be good to know!
-
We were in there, but at Stonelands. Contemplated having a look at Devon Sent but decided against it, seemed a bit warm and muggy so not sure conditions would have been absolutely prime but I could be wrong!
Lovely day out.
-
It was bloody warm in there at times!
What did you get on at Stonelands theres been a fair bit of work and new stuff done there recently how did you find it?
We were over at Pixies Copse and had a cracking afternoon, after the weather in the morning it was more than a pleasant surprise!
-
Yeah we were contemplating not heading out at one point but glad we chanced it. Was our first visit to Stonelands really so we mostly just did easier stuff on red dot and chasm and a few other odd things in the old guide. My mate did what we thought was a new sit start to breadcrumb trail but it had already been done a couple of weeks earlier apparently. Quality problem. Not 100% sure where/what the new stuff is.
-
My mate did what we thought was a new sit start to breadcrumb trail but it had already been done a couple of weeks earlier apparently. Quality problem.
You sure about the exact number of weeks there? I did it the friday before last weekend and assumed it probably hadn't been done before, would love if it had had three 'first ascents' in three consecutive weeks ;D
-
Ha! No I was refering to you Ian, apologies for the loose use of dates! ''My mate' is your old rival Hugh Reputon from Sheffield;). Also, this must be harder than V5 or I'm hanging up my boots forever!
-
Haha! I didn't find it too much harder than the stand, but then again the original problem is desperate.....
Compared to problems I did/tried at the Roaches on Saturday: it's easier than The Greener Traverse Sit (6B+ which I couldn't pull onto :-\ ), a world harder than Ant Lives (7A), and a bit harder than Stretch & Mantel (6C) physically but much less scary...
I give up on bouldering grades ever making sense.
I thought it was a good problem though! Makes the last move of Breadcrumb Trail a lot more climactic.
Edit: Can't believe I was in the Peak while Hugh and you were down south - I'll try and coordinate better next time :wave:
-
I did tell you I was coming down Mr Coops. I thought V6 for breadcrumb sit but also have no gasp of grades. Really good problem, Assume you were also laying one on out right to the best hold in the woods?
-
Aye but I'm still a scumbag student of sorts and the scumbag uni club who were paying for my petrol don't refund your tenner once you've put your name down :(
Yes I did finish out right, that hold is amazing! I wouldn't argue with v6, especially as the stand is surely the kind of V4 that most v4 climbers wouldn't have a chance on... :lol:
-
These two look good:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qb7xM7WvhcA (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qb7xM7WvhcA)
I repeated Aurora yesterday, I think it was the second ascent. Here is the vid, an excellent problem, very thin, nice one Alex on the FA!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNJUBb9XIOw&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNJUBb9XIOw&feature=youtu.be)
-
Nice work kingy! Looks good, didn't get over to the flakes boulder when I was down last weekend, gf and skin had had enough after Hypothesis!
-
Thanks, I had a look at Hypothesis in the dusk last night, manged to pull off the floor, some pretty savage crystals on that one! Did you make much headway or do it? Keen to come back to have another crack at it, intrigued by the upper moves. Better get growing some skin! ::)
-
These two look good:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qb7xM7WvhcA
Repeated Hypothesis today, great problem (if, as ever on the moor, a little sharp...) 7C seems fair.
-
Repeated Hypothesis today, great problem (if, as ever on the moor, a little sharp...) 7C seems fair.
:great: :weakbench:
-
Alex Waterhouse has been at it again, this time a ground up repeat of Devon Sent, brilliant effort!
I didn't put a rope on, so had to work out all the moves from the ground but I don't think the sharpness is really much of an issue, certainly no worse than a standard moor problem. All in all, probably one of the best climbs I've ever done and possibly (!!) the best problem in the South West
Full report from the skinny dwarf I only cycle now honest guv aka the King of the Moor's website here http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/ (http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/)
Devon Sent (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjf2gkkGq7Q#ws)
-
Well done Alex - how about the project to the right next??
-
Between showers yesterday eve Hamish Potokar did Devon Sent (GU), said it was the longest he's ever spent on a problem, 7C+. Also an american on holiday had done it just before we arrived - bovey woods is the new international bouldering hotspot! Sadly I didn't manage to join the club, sorted sequence now though I think, just need skin to heal and weather to play ball before it gets too warm.
-
The same American :strongbench: (I'm presuming here but can't imagine there are many visiting Americans crushing in the woods!) also recently completed the long term project arete to the right of Underdog. A long eyed project that has seen attention from many a woodsman!
Gave it V8 which I would have thought was in the grasp of said woodsman! Polished off in double quick time as well apparently!
A cracking line get to it!
-
Effort Hamish P.
'tis the same 'septic' Macca, lock up your projects he's here for at least a year!
-
Aye. I was there to witness said ascent. It was actually over a month ago. I repeat my comment above but with adjusted grade. If this is V8 I'm hanging up my boots now! V grades are fucking bollocks anyway. Looked incredibly heel and reach dependent to me but also looked a bloody good problem.
-
looks on UKC like Hamish has done (the 3rd?) ascent of Super Dooper Trooper 8A at Saddle tor.
-
Aye. I was there to witness said ascent. It was actually over a month ago. I repeat my comment above but with adjusted grade. If this is V8 I'm hanging up my boots now! V grades are fucking bollocks anyway. Looked incredibly heel and reach dependent to me but also looked a bloody good problem.
Funnily, Walker has added a sit start AND downgraded the problem to V7 (or 7a+ if you prefer)! He also intimated that Devon Sent is easier than 7c+!! Grades must be hard in Sweden.
Looks like a lot of the unclimbed lines in the woods may go in the next 12 months..
-
looks on UKC like Hamish has done (the 3rd?) ascent of Super Dooper Trooper 8A at Saddle tor.
4th (at least), strong northerner Mike Adams did it a little while back.
-
Aye. I was there to witness said ascent. It was actually over a month ago. I repeat my comment above but with adjusted grade. If this is V8 I'm hanging up my boots now! V grades are fucking bollocks anyway. Looked incredibly heel and reach dependent to me but also looked a bloody good problem.
Funnily, Walker has added a sit start AND downgraded the problem to V7 (or 7a+ if you prefer)! He also intimated that Devon Sent is easier than 7c+!! Grades must be hard in Sweden.
Looks like a lot of the unclimbed lines in the woods may go in the next 12 months..
Wowser! Is the thing to the right and underdog coming down to 6a then? ;)
-
A new Dartmoor venue:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JftWo3MCZT0
Beautiful spot, lovely rock (by Dartmoor standards) but, alas, not all that extensive...
-
Good spotter on that first problem - attentive, congratulatory, everything you need!
-
A rare moment where he was not off chasing deer or down a badger set!
-
Sticking it here too, wouldn't rely on his sequence though, that high left hand is grim!
https://vimeo.com/134646227/description
-
:wave: Been a while.. Had to start a new profile (all those wad points gone :wavecry:).
Visiting seppo Walker has been a busy boy on the moor, details in his blog..
http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/finding-worthy-rocks-first-ascents-in.html (http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/finding-worthy-rocks-first-ascents-in.html)
-
Has anyone got the details on Walkers goings on. Would be good to get all of his stuff documented and Mikeys Lustleigh addition!
Cheers
Macca
-
Here's what I know...
Overshadowed is at Easdon, the arête of Easdon slab if that makes sense. Maybe v7 ish.
Think Tom Rainbow was with him for the ascents in the woods. Tom??
Over The Mountain is Over the Hill sans block at the back, climbed compression style. At least V10 (Newberry is rumoured to have lanked err I mean climbed it in a different fashion). Little Tom?
Mikey's problem is the arête to the right of Creamtime and was dubbed Cream First in reference to scones. V6ish. Can't remember who said but possibly climbed previously by Ben Rowe?
Yankee Doodle Dandy is the solution to the project on the project Boulder at Ravens in the Cleave. No idea what grade but finishes with a wild dyno. Probably nails.
The Gift and the Snaresbrook Snake Charmer are at W?***cott Rocks but you're not allowed to climb there so don't get any ideas. (The former was Hendos project and the latter an extension so could be tricky, look good though).
What else do I know? Walker is the most psyched person I know and I know some very psyched people. The British weather and trips overseas to places where there is decent rock might dampen the enthusiasm a little!? Oh and he's blimmin strong. :strongbench:
-
Hi Grant
Thanks for that. I spoke to him just before he left so was aware of Over the Mountain and Yankee.... Thanks for having a stab at the grades. I thought Mikes thing was to the right of creamtime it looked like it in the picture. Wasn't aware of Overshadowed!
Ive seen the problems at W******** very good circuit lovely place. The gift looks nails!
Newberry mentioned he had cheated his way up Over the Mountain. No surprise there he's like that!
There are a few other things in Lustleigh that he's done so I need to find out about those. If there is any other info out there would be great to hear!
He is one strong super motivated young dude!
-
Ive seen the problems at W******** very good circuit lovely place. The gift looks nails!
Definitely want to go and check these out soon.
Will try and get some more info. out of Walker next time we hook up.
Desperately waiting for the Cleave to dry up so I can get back on Creamtime.
-
Really rather good looking new problem, new Dartmoor classic etc. etc. goes down. Have only heard good things from those that've been there. See below.
http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.co.uk/2016/03/one-of-dartmoors-best-boulder-problems.html
-
It is a good spot if it's the arête to the right of dead squirrel ... Tom is that what I think it is? Looked absolute nails when we were down there early 2014? I heard he was heading down there on Sunday is that when he did it? He's certainly impressive young walker!
-
Yes, that's right, it's the sit start to Dead Squirrel Edge. What a beautiful bit of rock!
It was early 2015 we were there Macca, is time dragging?
The thing that always makes me chuckle is Bendy wheeling out the last of the last great problems line every time he reports a new problem. He did it for YYD then two weeks later is reporting this. There are tons of fantastic unclimbed lines out there still.
-
Mikey Cleverdon did his link up project on the wave last night too, Nazarre into the Green Room. "The Waterman" 8B.
-
When I said YYD I meant YDD - Yankee Doodle Dandy.
Some new stuff at Cartoonlands recently too - Walker's done about 5 problems up to about 7b and Mikey did the L hand start to Mufasa but I don't know how hard he thought this was (I would guess probably 7b?). I put a few new 7a/7a+s there. All on excellent rock and in a lovely spot.
-
Oh man I wanna do Devon Sent! When/if I'm ever good enough the parents might actually see me for once!!
-
Mikey Cleverdon did his link up project on the wave last night too, Nazarre into the Green Room. "The Waterman" 8B.
. Beat me to it! Was there with Mikey for a lot of his sessions working this (whilst working Tsunami myself) and pleased to be there on Monday evening when he finally put it together. :beer2:
Awesome effort and perseverance on his part.
The list of hard test pieces, quality lines and quality venues on Dartmoor is growing fast. Cheers to all the beys doing on the hard work bushwacking and cleaning!
-
2015! Are you sure Tom!
What has Walker done at Cartoonlands then, which lines. I presume Mikey did the left line from a sit that we were looking at?
Theres still some lovely looking stuff left in there let alone the rest of the moor!
-
Cheers to all the beys doing on the hard work bushwacking and cleaning!
Agree!
-
Walker's done four new problems that I know of at Cartoonlands....
The traverse out of the cave on Fred Basset, two lines R of Mufasa (the rounded arête and a line L using the crimp flake) and the R side of the Midges from Mordor arête into the sharp arête, which I assumed he climbed on the R. He also reckons the amazing wall will go...possibly without a jump!
All these problems are in the high 6s low to mid 7s but he does have commitment issues...when it comes to grading at least, so won't be pinned down to an actual grade.
-
Cheers Mate!
Once again my memory has let me down as you did mention the two to the left of Mufusa before. The right side of midges arete is the line Steve was talking about when we were there then?
The traverse out of the cave was the line he tried all the way back in 2014 or was it 2015?
The wall definitely needs to go with out a jump!
I'll let you know re Fri but it doesn't look good ill text you about wend!
-
Found someone's rope on the ground under The Woodsman in Bovey Woods let me know if it's yours and you want it back.
Really cool problem, amazing setting, compelling line, tall etc. etc. But just as I was unlocking a sequence it did split a tip, hand no tape, had to abandon.
-
Hi Grant,
I 'lost' a rope in the woods a year ago from under the Jungle Room. It was red and black (Mammut I think). Does it sound familiar?
Glad you liked the problem...loads of new stuff going down at the moment. Bumped into Walker at Red Dragon today!
Tom
-
I 'lost' a rope in the woods a year ago from under the Jungle Room. It was red and black (Mammut I think). Does it sound familiar?
Glad you liked the problem...loads of new stuff going down at the moment. Bumped into Walker at Red Dragon today!
Alas tis only a wee bit of rope and does not fit your description..
Gets about a bit does that Walker.
Incidentally, a week or so ago the Beastly Sqwurrl repeated the unnamed V7 problem up at Saddle Tor post hold breakage (he gave it a name Weekend Warrior and a grade 8a), Newberry repeated it a couple of days ago and suggests 7b+. Mikey Cleverdon broke the hold again this morning, something bigger is left over. . Get in there quick if you want a very soft 8a repeat!
-
Damn, my wee bit of rope was about 50m long...not sure how much I would trust a rope that was left at the crag without knowing its history but obviously someone out there is happy to take that chance - or flog it on ebay?
Has anybody repeated Tropic Thunder yet?
-
Oh yes, while I'm at it Grant, do you have any idea of the grade of Mikey's new problem at Cartoonlands (Mufasa left hand start)? I had a quick play on it and it felt pretty hard...
-
:no: whoever took your rope clearly wasn't there just by chance, sad because it's likely to be someone known to one of us.
No repeats of Tropic Thunder that I know of despite some attention from strong folk.
Haven't been yet and can't wait to try all the new things popping up everywhere after putting lots of time in at the Wave.
Think Mikey said 7b ish, saw video of it, pretty highball, apparently he was expecting jugs at the top and got a bit frightened!
-
Walker's new thing at Lustleigh:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fRnx3df9tHE
-
Looks good. Video made me giggle with the indecision!
-
Yeah, vids good isn't it!
-
Cracking looking problem, and yes, great vid.
I love the power shakes!
-
A couple of videos and a big YYFY for me.. I have lived in Devon for 11 years and had visited Bonehill rocks a few times before moving here. Tsunami always stood out as being a hard line that I wanted to do but I only really ever fettled with it and shook my head at the minginess of the crimps at the start. Last winter I got stuck into it to no avail. This winter I really got stuck into it, did some extra regular, structured training (something I have never done before), each session getting it more wired and getting closer. All this fitted around work, being a husband and a dad to a 2 year old and 5 year old. A proper siege (again something I have never done before). In March a few days before my 42nd birthday I climbed it. For me, probably the hardest 7c+ I have climbed and one I know has shut down more than a few local wads.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbwD7ulWvwQ
I climbed this slab problem 'Flesh and Blood Gods' down at Lynmouth West in 2014. It's around about 7b, technical, sequency, long and very on/off right until the last hard rock over. It's currently unrepeated, a brilliant problem, at a truly atmospheric venue and most importantly is still accessible/climbable on most high tides. There is also a blow hole right next to it which 'breathes' and 'spits' if there is a swell running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVdBZdYBZTQ
-
Looks good, hopefully will get down to Exmoor coast soon.
In less good news, Jonny broke the last crimp before the lip off Supercede yesterday, doubly gutting as it looked like he was going to do it that go. Bit surprising too as he's pretty light. It hasn't left anything usable, so it'll either need gluing back (Jonny has the hold, but none of us have the knowledge, plus dunno if it'd work in a tidal environment like that), or the problem is going to be a fair bit harder.
Hold is the one Hamish gets with his left hand at 35s in this video :
https://vimeo.com/102623489
-
Hi guys,
I'm going to be staying not far from Crediton (near Thelbridge Cross) over the bank holiday weekend and I'm hoping to get a couple of hours of bouldering in. Where would people recommend that is relatively near.
Thanks
-
Looks good, hopefully will get down to Exmoor coast soon.
In less good news, Jonny broke the last crimp before the lip off Supercede yesterday, doubly gutting as it looked like he was going to do it that go. Bit surprising too as he's pretty light.
Give me shout if you're in the area.
:'(. Shame about the hold on Supercede. Might be a difficult job to glue it back on considering where it is... See what other folk think. Is it still doable without?
-
Hi guys,
I'm going to be staying not far from Crediton (near Thelbridge Cross) over the bank holiday weekend and I'm hoping to get a couple of hours of bouldering in. Where would people recommend that is relatively near.
You are closest to Dartmoor... Depends on what you fancy as to which tor or woods you end up in. Check Javu and UkC for more info... Bonehill is the obvious easy access, compact, well documented place that is suited to a quick session.
-
Closest to you probably isn't best! Agree loads to choose from in Haytor Area, Bonehill obvious choice if you've never been before, but I've always liked Smallacombe for a bit of solitude.
-
I have climbed at Bone Hill a few times when I've been in the area. I will have a look at Smallacombe.
-
Prepare to get lost, it's a large area. Worth printing out any photos of problems you can find for reference.
-
Just been looking on UKC and Cartoolands looks good and quite close.
Thanks all for the suggestions.
-
Just been looking on UKC and Cartoolands looks good and quite close.
Thanks all for the suggestions.
cartoon lands would be a really good shout.
-
That's an ambitious walk for a non-local-person. It's not a quick-hit venue. If you're partial to the odd highball and solo mixed in with your session then hound tor is a pleasure.
-
That's an ambitious walk for a non-local-person. It's not a quick-hit venue. If you're partial to the odd highball and solo mixed in with your session then hound tor is a pleasure.
Assume you are referring to Smallacombe because the walk into Cartoonlands is relatively straightforward and short. It's pretty compact and there are loads of new problems in the 6s that are mostly top notch.
If you've only got a couple of hours though, Hound Tor is also a good shout.
-
Cheers for the feedback Grant...Cartoonlands is looking better than it ever has at the moment and has a slew of fun 6s and low 7s. Short walk in, easy to locate boulders and a couple of big lines still to go. Get in there before conditions go and the leaves come out.
As an aside, it will be going in the new guidebook that James Clapham has written along with The Orgasmatron, about two thirds of the problems in Bovey Woods, most if not all of the new stuff at Lustleigh (if Walker ever gets round to committing to a grade on his new problems), Gidleigh and (I think) Becka Brook. Red Dragon Ridge and a number of other new spots are missing out, however.
There is a very old Cartoonlands topo here:
http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/page/Outlying+Areas
It's pretty out of date now but will help you identify where the new things go...hopefully.
-
Looks good, hopefully will get down to Exmoor coast soon.
In less good news, Jonny broke the last crimp before the lip off Supercede yesterday, doubly gutting as it looked like he was going to do it that go. Bit surprising too as he's pretty light.
Give me shout if you're in the area.
:'(. Shame about the hold on Supercede. Might be a difficult job to glue it back on considering where it is... See what other folk think. Is it still doable without?
will do.
Think it'll prob still go, but it'll be a considerably bigger move, to a worse hold, high up on the problem. Very much doubt it'll be the same grade.
-
the new guidebook that James Clapham has written.
Is there a date for release of this yet?
Cartoonlands looks fun. Shame it was off the radar when I lived down there.
-
Looks good, hopefully will get down to Exmoor coast soon.
In less good news, Jonny broke the last crimp before the lip off Supercede yesterday, doubly gutting as it looked like he was going to do it that go. Bit surprising too as he's pretty light. It hasn't left anything usable, so it'll either need gluing back (Jonny has the hold, but none of us have the knowledge, plus dunno if it'd work in a tidal environment like that), or the problem is going to be a fair bit harder.
Hold is the one Hamish gets with his left hand at 35s in this video :
https://vimeo.com/102623489
Rubbish! I wanted to go and try this when I am down in the summer. Do you think it would still go but just be harder?
-
Yeah think so, see my reply to grant two posts up. We didn't get back up to that point to attempt it though. Real shame as it's a great problem, hope it still goes.
-
Basically it looks like you'll have to go again with yr LH to the hold Hamish crosses over to with his right.
-
the new guidebook that James Clapham has written.
Is there a date for release of this yet?
Cartoonlands looks fun. Shame it was off the radar when I lived down there.
He's hoping to have it done for mid summer, I'll post an update if I hear anything.
-
Cheers. I'm due a free copy for supplying photos.
-
Yeah think so, see my reply to grant two posts up. We didn't get back up to that point to attempt it though. Real shame as it's a great problem, hope it still goes.
Oops sorry, skim reading. I hope it does still go, it's an amazing wall. I'll give it a bash, if the tides are good, when am down in July.
-
Tintagel Bouldering = class venue, class problems and class location.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NzqrUurUCs
-
Nice Vid, love that boulder, such a magic spot. Please tell me it wasn't your dog ends I had to pick up on Tuesday morning though.
-
Was gonna comment on your post yesterday.. Good effort on picking them up. Not guilty.
The place is used by fishermen too and has been frequented by lots of climbers recently. Best you can do is raise awareness.
Spend a lot of time on the coast, much worse than this is the amount of 'marine litter' washing up on the beaches, plastics, palm oil etc. Etc.
-
Nice video man.
Did either of you guys have a look at 'Path of Daggers', did I have my blinkers on? haha.
-
Dan, I had a quick play after AWOL, managed the move up to the crimp/pinch once, but skin was a bit knackered by then, and it's a pretty painful edge with thin tips! Seemed like a logical line to me. Did try and put right heel on a la AndyW but couldn't make it stick. You done Colorado Dreaming? Seemed nails, though I suppose I was a bit spent by then.
Grant, apologies for any insinuation, didn't think so. Didn't realise fishermen went down to those ledges, just a bit depressing when it's so pristine otherwise! Agree re the marine litter, but as you say, worth trying to raise awareness if it might be climbers.
-
Nice video man.
Did either of you guys have a look at 'Path of Daggers', did I have my blinkers on? haha.
Cheers Dan. The footage was from before your visit but think I will be back down there soon enough (I still want to do Colorado Dreaming) blinkers or not it looks cool. It's a great block to session on steep, powerful, crimpy stuff and once you've done the main lines there are link ups galore!
Duma, could all be a bit more conscientious I guess and pick up after others as well as ourselves! Found a load of fishing line and a pair of scissors down Lynmouth West recently..
-
Dan, I had a quick play after AWOL, managed the move up to the crimp/pinch once,
You done Colorado Dreaming? Seemed nails, though I suppose I was a bit spent by then.
Ah cool, yeah its pretty sharp, cool ah well maybe it will interest people.
I have done Colorado Dreaming, quite a while ago though (3/4years??). Newberry said it might have changed after the storms. I can't really remember much except the footholds where pretty hard to use.
Nice video man.
Duma, could all be a bit more conscientious I guess and pick up after others as well as ourselves! Found a load of fishing line and a pair of scissors down Lynmouth West recently.
Fishermen are pretty bad for it, we went and fished near rumps and port Quin and all kind of shit was left (at least we knew there might be fish ha).
I recon I located a mega DWS location if anyone is interested!
-
I recon I located a mega DWS location if anyone is interested!
Yup!
-
I recon I located a mega DWS location if anyone is interested!
Yup!
Okay, as if you are going to Pentire, but once you pass the walk down to great wall, continue down the coast around around the bay. if you walk down to the right of rumps point, there is an little island super close (not the far away island with a flag on) with a gully between the island and main land. (maybe 5-10metres between). On the island there is a really steep face and I recon the gully is pretty deep water, seen it at low tide and could see the bottom.
If it is deep water that would be an ace place as you could sit on the main land and chill out between attempts.
Might go back end of summer if people are keen
-
Dan, I had a quick play after AWOL, managed the move up to the crimp/pinch once, but skin was a bit knackered by then, and it's a pretty painful edge with thin tips! Seemed like a logical line to me. Did try and put right heel on a la AndyW but couldn't make it stick. You done Colorado Dreaming? Seemed nails, though I suppose I was a bit spent by then.
Grant, apologies for any insinuation, didn't think so. Didn't realise fishermen went down to those ledges, just a bit depressing when it's so pristine otherwise! Agree re the marine litter, but as you say, worth trying to raise awareness if it might be climbers.
I remember now that I used my toe, not heel.
-
Tintagel Bouldering = class venue, class problems and class location.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NzqrUurUCs
nice vid, made me miss Cornwall!
-
Cheers Andy. We will keep it safe for you.
-
Jonny on the North Coast:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8D-1nw-13E
-
Great videos, really want to go down there this summer and try the end is nigh :2thumbsup:
-
Jonny crushes the North Coast :strongbench:
Great videos, really want to go down there this summer and try the end is nigh :2thumbsup:
Bring plenty of pads...
-
This August I'll be making a move with the fam to Falmouth. Looking forward to a bit of SW climbing—some of it looks very good indeed.
Could anyone offer a bit of advice on my training options? Doesn't look like much in the way of decent walls nearby. Happy enough to build a woody if so.
-
I recon I located a mega DWS location if anyone is interested!
Yup!
Okay, as if you are going to Pentire, but once you pass the walk down to great wall, continue down the coast around around the bay. if you walk down to the right of rumps point, there is an little island super close (not the far away island with a flag on) with a gully between the island and main land. (maybe 5-10metres between). On the island there is a really steep face and I recon the gully is pretty deep water, seen it at low tide and could see the bottom.
If it is deep water that would be an ace place as you could sit on the main land and chill out between attempts.
Might go back end of summer if people are keen
That sounds like it'd be worth a look. Is this the place d'you think? https://www.google.com/maps/place/50%C2%B035'40.5%22N+4%C2%B055'13.2%22W/@50.594573,-4.9211169,233m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d50.594573!4d-4.920348
Drop us a message on here if you do fancy checking it out, I'd be keen to have a look.
-
This August I'll be making a move with the fam to Falmouth. Looking forward to a bit of SW climbing—some of it looks very good indeed.
Could anyone offer a bit of advice on my training options? Doesn't look like much in the way of decent walls nearby. Happy enough to build a woody if so.
With the recent demise of Magic Wood in Liskaerd, your nearest options would be The Barn just over the Tamar back into Devon or Pat's wall in Newquay (not sure what it's called?).
-
.......Deadpoint Bouldering Studio....
-
.......Deadpoint Bouldering Studio....
Thanks for the information. That looks to fit the bill. A couple of panels of 45+ will keep me ticking over nicely.
-
.......Deadpoint Bouldering Studio....
Thanks for the information. That looks to fit the bill. A couple of panels of 45+ will keep me ticking over nicely.
I'm afraid that shut sometime ago.
-
With the recent demise of Magic Wood in Liskaerd
What happened to Simon's wall? When did it close? Was it not getting enough use to be viable?
-
.......Deadpoint Bouldering Studio....
Thanks for the information. That looks to fit the bill. A couple of panels of 45+ will keep me ticking over nicely.
I'm afraid that shut sometime ago.
So it looks like your options are 1 & 1/2 hr drive to the Barn or build your own woody. (I've not climbed at the Penryn wall but it looks truly shit.)
Sorry to piss on your chips ...
-
.......Deadpoint Bouldering Studio....
Thanks for the information. That looks to fit the bill. A couple of panels of 45+ will keep me ticking over nicely.
I'm afraid that shut sometime ago.
So it looks like your options are 1 & 1/2 hr drive to the Barn or build your own woody. (I've not climbed at the Penryn wall but it looks truly shit.)
Sorry to piss on your chips ...
Woody it is then. I have a sizeable one in my current back yard. Half tempted to ship it, but I think I'll be able to rent my house to climbing sorts easily if I don't.
Sad to hear that the wee spots have gone under.
-
On the plus side, you will be nice and close to that real rock stuff. Lots of potential for developing in the far west too, if you like exploring and putting up new stuff it's all good.😀
-
On the plus side, you will be nice and close to that real rock stuff. Lots of potential for developing in the far west too, if you like exploring and putting up new stuff it's all good.😀
For the most part, exploring and developing is climbing in Ireland. Happy as a pig in shit I'm sure. Looks like an amazing part of the world.
-
Bunch of new links/starts on the superbloc at tintagel: http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/8a-8b-sends-coach-student-tintagel/
-
Me and my mate spent a bit of time in Cornwall last week developing/documenting some boulders at Porth Nanven near St Just- worth checking out on a windy day (the sun just doesn't cut it... take a few towels).
Here's a quick vid of the stuff we did: https://vimeo.com/173416238
-
Haha! Enjoyed that, top esoteric perseverance!
-
Me and my mate spent a bit of time in Cornwall last week developing/documenting some boulders at Porth Nanven near St Just- worth checking out on a windy day (the sun just doesn't cut it... take a few towels).
Here's a quick vid of the stuff we did: https://vimeo.com/173416238
Nice video and excellent perseverance in the cave. I've looked at that many times and its always, always been wet!
-
Jonny Kydd has done the sit to Godzilla at Biblins, suggests 8B.
[emoji144]
-
Effort ! The project on the far right needs doing as well now
-
Nice one Jonny!
Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
-
Jonny Kydd has done the sit to Godzilla at Biblins, suggests 8B.
[emoji144]
At the end of this vid (also shows a bunch of other stuff at Biblins):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrlKFtuaGOE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrlKFtuaGOE)
-
I've been playing on the Saddle tor traverse. Didn't get up last week, but went today and... I can't be sure... but I think... the big jug on the roof has broken more. There's no chalk on the raw rock and it felt smaller (though I was having a "not feeling it day, so...?). Anyone know anything?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161006/e24e6db5133b44fa47c440507768337c.jpg)
Some what annoying as I view that as the last (semi) rest before it got hard. Not today.
Not my tick, either.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
James Squire repeated Mikeys "The Waterman" 8B on the wave at Bonehill last night.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BNc3QYjgbf7/
-
I've been playing on the Saddle tor traverse. Didn't get up last week, but went today and... I can't be sure... but I think... the big jug on the roof has broken more. There's no chalk on the raw rock and it felt smaller (though I was having a "not feeling it day, so...?). Anyone know anything?
Some what annoying as I view that as the last (semi) rest before it got hard. Not today.
Not my tick, either.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, that was me. Post went up about it in the Dartmoor Bouldering FB page.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/31314439866_df06142944_b.jpg)
-
I was up again today, it's broken again. Half pad at most, three fingers.
That's my excuse, I'm sticking to it.[emoji12]
Actually, not sticking to it, slipping off it every time before I can sort my feet out to move through. It'll go if you're stronger than me.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I'm sure it broke again more recently than your breakage JK and it has gone many times previously, an ever evolving hold. It still goes.. Won't be renaming it though... :ras:
Good effort on the first repeat of the Waterman. Missed us by one evening, we were there the night before. Mint conditions on the granite at the moment. The race is on for the first repeat of Peahi, a few suitors are getting close.
OMM You can by-pass that hold on the traverse.
-
I must be going the wrong way then!
Time to review...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Do you mean line 18 on the Javu topo?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161201/f8b7ee77b8c79160a549fc5369de9e09.png)
Which I took to be Abba Gold (and didn't really read the description, since the standard traverse is a major stretch for me anyway).
Can't imagine anyway off the ledge without the lunge.
Edit:
Probably should have just deleted that, but I'll be honest.
I was working from Grimer's book and should have just looked at the Javu description, which clearly explains the variations.
Think I'll:
A: Keep trying the old way, because it feels like it will go if I get strong enough to lock off that left arm and reach through.
B: Try the Abba Gold into it.
Still plenty of work right of that point for me. This might be my miniature version of Simon and The Oak...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Yeah. Line 18 is Abba Gold which goes up at Foals Chopper (the hardest v6 on the planet) then across to eventually finish up Dancing Queen. The traverse stays low but you can move up earlier than the way you are trying and reach across past the broken hold using a heel toe. You then keep,going to the arête and up, goes at V10ish.
-
Foals Chopper (the hardest v6 on the planet)
Grimer gave it V7 in his book. Maybe that's a fairer grade...?
-
V7 is getting closer.. Have you tried it/done it?
-
V7 is getting closer.. Have you tried it/done it?
The closest I've got is tickling the crimp after you make the 1st big pull. Surely it's under graded even at V7?
-
:agree: The starting holds were originally bigger which may have made a difference. When you do get the crimp it's minging. King of the crimp Alex Waterhouse struggled on it. It's a great big sandbag.. I have tried it for 12 years to no avail.. grrr. :furious:
-
Speak to Rob Greenwood he did last week in the rain?
-
V7 is getting closer.. Have you tried it/done it?
I'd been trying Dancing Queen - no cigar - and then everyone wanted to go as it was too windy (not me I might add). I had a quick bash at the first move and got the slap got a heel on and then fell off. Bit of a half hearted effort but it felt doable. Isn't it all over after you've rocked up and got stood up?
Keen to get back on it when next down there.
-
Speak to Rob Greenwood he did last week in the rain?
clearly I am crap at this sort of thing Macca, it'll be back to V6 if I ever do it!
-
I don't think I've ever looked at it and with all this talk of it being hard I won't ve going near it anytime soon!
-
Being as he's too modest to do it himself, Mr Rainbow bagged the second ascent of a Bovey Woods masterpiece yesterday. Closely followed by Mr Kearney. So well done gents on the 2nd and 3rd ascents respectively of The Jungle Book!
Go get on it people while its clean and conditions are prime!
Take some friends and a few mats and enjoy!
-
Nice one gents! Looks great, need to finish off DS so I can start trying other stuff in the woods.
-
Details of some of the new venues that have been developed over the last couple of seasons:
https://tomrainbow99.wordpress.com/2016/12/20/woodland-bouldering-on-dartmoor-the-gift-that-keeps-on-giving/
-
Great stuff Tom, thanks for writing up! :bounce: :bounce:
-
James Squire and Hamish Potokar both repeated Mikeys Pe'ahi 8A+ at Bonehill yesterday (2nd and 3rd ascents I think?). Nice to see a proper up problem on this wall get some attention rather than all the sideways links.
-
Yes was impressive to see James absolutely piss his way up it from the floor having redone the top 'just to make sure' :strongbench:
-
Well it's out and looks pretty cool. I'll be getting a copy pretty sharpish.
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/south-west/dartmoor/
-
I should be getting mine on me birthday next week! :bounce:
-
I should be getting mine on me birthday next week! :bounce:
Possible venue for this years birthday weekender?
-
Too far for a weekender I reckon! Planning a wife trip later in the year :-)
-
<hijack>Any Fatneck Birthday WeekendTM plans yet Si?</hijack>
-
Northumberland?
At least I wouldn't have to fly. Just saying.
Dartmoor guide is really good. I was going to post my (free) copy down to a mate who lives in Exmouth, as I am unlikely to use it much, but might hang on to it a while and read it some more....
-
I would be up for Northumberland. Or maybe the North Lakes (Carrock, Bowderstone, Gillercombe)?
-
2nd vote for the lakes here! :agree:
-
Alright , alright let's call this house to order :offtopic:
Stop thy muddying of the SW thread with talk of Northumberland and the Lakes.
-
Cailean did Pe'ahi the other day. Most popular hard problem in the SW suddenly.
-
Got my copy of the new Dartmoor guide and it is just brilliant. Few places in there that have sketchy info which now don't e.g. Lustleigh Cleave and having all the topos, maps etc for the woods in a guide is perfect. I often visit the same places down there but now will not be.
-
:agree:
Lovely quirky write ups, funny bits, FA info, good history section - just what a good guide should be!
-
I'm sure the landscape format is great for at the crag, but its not ideal for bedtime reading! :-\
-
I'm sure the landscape format is great for at the crag, but its not ideal for bedtime reading! :-\
Or the bog, my prime guide reading time!!
-
On the subject of the new guide can anyone confirm whether or not Toltec Twostep and TT direct are the wrong way round? I don't have the old guide to compare. I'm not nit picking just interested where the routes go...
-
Yes they are (the wrong way round)
-
Yes they are (the wrong way round)
Oh good I'm not going mad. I remember you did it a while back - nice one again!
-
Managed to re-climb Supercede at Hartland today. I hadn't climbed it before so I don't know how it compares grade wise but it felt harder than The Revolution is Coming and The End is Nigh so maybe 8A+? I still think the crux is the move to the rail which is the same as before it broke. A brilliant climb whatever; great rock quality (except the top) and interesting moves.
I came up with a couple of possible methods/ideas that I thought would work for the top but ended up using the crimp that was previously used as the intermediate for the left hand to bump my right hand to an undercut below the crimp rail. From here I built my feet and went left hand to the top.
-
Brilliant, nice one! Glad it still goes.
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
-
Brilliant, nice one! Glad it still goes.
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
Thanks. It's such a fun set of moves and the rock is incredible, especially that sloper!
-
Jonny Kydd did the RH sit (ie from Arch angels start) to Godzilla at biblins this morning - 8B, though harder (and better) than the lh low start he did last year.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BU6hd2llm8t/
-
Wadzilla is an ace name!
-
Bit off topic so apologies. Mrs Fatneck and I are down in Devon (staying in Teignmouth) and had plans to get out climbing again tomorrow but it's the Dartmoor Classic bike race and we're struggling to find out how it will affect our plans. Is it worth trying to get out on the Moors or should we hit a beach and eat ice cream?
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
-
Been a while since I've been down that way, but what about the lime? Chudleigh bouldering or lqp dws?
-
Although looking at the route dewerstone bouldering should be all accessible if you want granite
-
I'm doing the ride and I think there are ~4000 riders taking part so is going to busy.. however you if you wanted to do routes then obviously all the lime would be fine (torbryan/ansteys etc.).
Bouldering wise - you could head down to Combshead above Burrator, the ride isn't going that way and its a beautiful spot. Or.. the part up past Haytor and down to Ashburton is at the beginning of the ride so I imagine (don't blame me if not!) that by midday the roads up to Bonehill/Hound Tor etc should be as free as they ever are on a sunny Sunday afternoon!
Finally, there's some tiny back lanes that would get you into Bovey Woods without needing to go on the cycle route roads
hope that helps somewhat
-
Very helpful Ben. Thank you and hope the ride goes well!
-
Very helpful Ben. Thank you and hope the ride goes well!
Hope you managed to get out fatneck? The ride went well although it's hard work comparing to lazing around on mats and occasionally pulling on :)
-
Thanks Ben and yes we did!! We went for a swim in the sea in the morning and hit Combestone Tor in the afternoon without too much hassle! Thanks again for the help 👍
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
-
Thread resurrection!
Can any Dartmoor officionados offer any advice on where the classic The Wave at Bonehill starts? I'm hoping to get down that way for a rare flying visit in a few weeks and it's long been on my to-do list. From previous visits I recall there being two horizontal breaks below the famous monkey paw so assume the 'official' start is matched in the lower break? There's a dearth of videos online that I can cheat from.
-
James Squire has done his project on Devon Sent boulder, looks very good!
https://www.instagram.com/tv/B35SAv8jhhl/?igshid=uta8umah6q1x
-
Great work James...let me know the name and grade when you have decided on them!
You know there's another interesting project at the right end of the boulder, coming out left from the juggy feature into poor side pulls finishing off with what looks like a dyne to a blob? About time that was climbed as well.
-
Just seen the top of your post with name and grade so all's good.
Walker's embarrasingly named Over the Rainbow needs an ascent and grade confirmation. He reckoned 7c+ but, knowing him, I wouldn't be surprised if it was harder. Brilliant looking problem:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTtb_BWB9Fg/
-
Heh Tom. Mikey punted off the end of Over The Rainbow, don’t think he’s been back to finish it but probably he can give you a rough idea on grade...
-
You know there's another interesting project at the right end of the boulder, coming out left from the juggy feature into poor side pulls finishing off with what looks like a dyne to a blob? About time that was climbed as well.
He's done it, vid in his ig stories.
I've wondered about this before, glad it's got done
-
Any info on it Duma? I'm surprised he hasn't put it on UKC as he put Infamous on there the other day.
-
Not spoken to him since, but his IG story says hardest move he's done
https://www.instagram.com/beastlysquirrel/
-
Technical duncery alert - I can't find the relevant part of his IG story!
-
Click on his picture Tom, it’ll pop up
-
Thanks Guy.
Presumably he's only just done it...gotta be pretty hard if it's the hardest move he's ever done!
I think the Mega Wall is now pretty much worked out:
Nether Edge - 7A+/7B
Abbeydale Road - 7B
Infamous - 8B
Devon Sent - 7C+
James' new dyno problem - ?? (presumably at least 8A)
The Side Issue - 6A
Guess which one I put up! Not a bad set of problems.
-
I'd like that boulder in my back garden collection please. Devon Sent would be a problem I'd be happy to play on forever.
-
Not sure your fingertips would feel the same way!!
-
Can't be worse than the local stuff.
-
Oh it can. I think the SW granite is easily the sharpest rock I've ever climbed on.
-
I lived in Bristol for 3 years and climbed on the moors regularly, and found it OK. I prefer it to the razor rat crimps on the hard routes on local rock; shist of some sort?
-
No accounting for taste I suppose! ;)
-
Hey guys,
I only just saw this post, sorry had a super long week at work. Thank you for the kind comments! <3
I just uploaded the video of the new dyno - I called it "Rocket Science" and the video is here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B4YFKwGjbJi/
Hopefully there is more cool stuff hiding in Bovey Woods :-)
-
Really cool. You made it look like a 6A!
-
So there was def more cool stuff in the woods, this looks amazing!
https://www.instagram.com/tv/B53ZliQJfTJ/?igshid=u025ipbhheu9
-
I spotted walker on this a few years ago when he was trying it. Amazing line. That wall to the left is amazing too but doesn't seem to be any holds on it. Well done James.
-
Yes, fantastic effort James (not least in the sawing department). I would hate to add up the hours I've spent clearing fallen trees from boulders in them woods. Fun though isn't it!
Anyway, a majestic line and a real jewel in the crown for Devonian bouldering. James' line looks to me to be a bit more direct than what Walker was trying...I thought Walker was climbing entirely to the R of the arete? Is that correct Ged?
-
No I'd say he was going pretty similar to that. He'd linked it on top rope but couldn't do it before moving to Sweden.
What else of his is unrepeated? Under the rainbow? Yankee doodle dandy?
-
James Squire has made another fine looking (and hard) addition to dartmoor https://www.instagram.com/p/B7hL93fjVEK/
-
Does look ace, but it's Bodmin, not Dartmoor
-
Hardest problem in Cornwall?
Is this one that walker was trying? He mentioned something down that way that had a huge span on it...
-
Think he was trying a direct up the same wall (inferred from ig comments)
-
Looks epic, great work James. It was beautiful up on the moors yesterday, today looks mint too!! There is certainly a lot of potential on those Bodmin Moor Tors and surely a lot more to come as the eye of Squire and the like, turn their gaze South westward!!
-
I made a video of the two days me and James had at Kilmar Tor, including his FA of Pursuit of Slappiness 8B+:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBpn56yvoPY
-
Ace, was that 2 days in a row, or time for skin growth inbetween? Does something go up the left side of the arete?
Looks like he's giving a sermon at the end!
-
A week in between thankfully!
There is a 6C+ that goes up the slab on the left in the middle, over a bad landing, but nothing further right using the arete for right hand I don't think. I looked at it but didn't try it. Would be good I reckon.
-
Nice! Like an 8B Baby Spice!
-
Nice vid Ed, thanks for posting. Enjoyed the one with the Bovey Project too.
is the "unknown 7C?" thing easy to find?
-
Nice vid Ed, thanks for posting. Enjoyed the one with the Bovey Project too.
is the "unknown 7C?" thing easy to find?
Thanks.
Yeah, it's just uphill from the arete. Best way to them both is to walk along the road to the farm then cut up towards the prominent pancake-stack feature on the ridge. The boulders are just beneath that.
Tom Bunn said he climbed something on that feature at 7B+/7C so we went with 7C but I think it's definitely harder than that, maybe more like 8A.
-
I made a video of the two days me and James had at Kilmar Tor, including his FA of Pursuit of Slappiness 8B+:
I really enjoyed that. Great style of editing.
-
What are the chances of finding dry rock on Dartmoor this coming Wednesday? I'm down visiting family and have a hankering for some skin shredding. The forecast has Weds as the one good(ish) day of the week (dry and breezy) so surely quick drying stuff would be ok?
Things like The Wave at Bonehill and Dancing Queen at Saddle Tor have been on my list for years. Any chance?
-
If the cloud's high enough a fair bit of that stuff will dry off in a couple of hours with a breeze.
-
Thanks Duma, that's what I hoped to hear!
It's been desperate finding dry rock up here in the Highlands this winter, same as everywhere I guess, so I'm keen to have a punt on anything while there's family around to look after the kids...
-
Wednesday will be fine for non sleepy stuff. I'd probably avoid the woods, but the wave and saddle tor should be grand
Easdon arete drys in about 5 seconds and is really good too
-
Don't get on any of that sleepy stuff it's stiff for the grade :sorry:
-
How did you get on did you manage to get out today?
Fingers crossed you found something dry and didn't get blown away!
-
James new mega problem at Kilmar tor has got me thinking i really should go and sample the bouldering on Bodmin moor.
Does any one know of a good topo or list of the better Bodmin Moor problems, personal suggestions.
I've been twice and always walked away a little underwhelmed :shrug:
-
How did you get on did you manage to get out today?
Fingers crossed you found something dry and didn't get blown away!
Sadly my pass was revoked so no joy for me. My wife has a cold so didn't fancy looking after both kids while I swanned off. >:(
-
How did you get on did you manage to get out today?
Fingers crossed you found something dry and didn't get blown away!
Sadly my pass was revoked so no joy for me. My wife has a cold so didn't fancy looking after both kids while I swanned off. >:(
Shame, at least you didn't miss a perfect day. Hope everyone is feeling better!
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-Tw90riXe8&feature=
I made a little video about a project I've been trying at Smallacombe Rocks.
-
looks ace! nice one.
-
Great stuff EGS and Beesty Skwirl.
Got a little extra time on my hands, isolating innit.
Lots has been happening on the Exmoor Coast over the last year or two. With some keen yoots revitalising the scene, putting new stuff up and opening new areas.
I have built a website to get information out there and keep people informed.
DON’T start visiting just yet though.
Anyhoo, check it out, constructive feedback is welcome.
https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/
-
I meant don’t start visit Exmoor, by all means visit the website. : ::)
-
Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days... and the last 2 were me :-[
Seems like the best place to put this though... I have produced Mini-guide for the bouldering at Hurlstone Point, Bossington, Nr Porlock (the Somerset end of the Exmoor Coast). Probably of most interest to locals but if you happen to be in Porlock/ Minehead area and want a workout this place is ideal.
There's a wee blog on the website too and the downloadable guide can be found here.
https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/news (https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/news)
-
Nice one Grant, looks good!
-
Nice one Grant, looks good!
Cheers Duma. It's a great little venue. Next projects are the section of coast immediately west of Porlock and a hugely overdue Lynmouth update. The long-term project is to add all the venues and known problems between Minehead and Combe Martin.
-
Yeah looks great, nice one. Been a while since I've been up that way, might have to change that soon...
I think it's worth giving a quick round up of new things that have been done in South Devon and Dartmoor over the last couple years which haven't been widely reported.
Holwell Tor
The ever-prolific James Squire has climbed a new thing called Low Hanging Fruit, 8A (with a 7B+ higher start): https://www.instagram.com/p/CY6pKssIFPZ/
Jame's common partner in crime (first-ascenting), Alex Kellas, climbed this techy-looking thing called Moon Walk, at 7B+ https://www.instagram.com/p/CZMQqsSu70A/
Climbing towards the left arete is Moon W*nk, 7A+.
Rob Hearnden added Enchanted Arete, 7A+ https://www.instagram.com/p/CS4r1RYj1Hf/
Jezz Miles and the mysterious "Nick b" added Frogon and Jogon (opposite Schmogon), at 6B and 7A, repsectively.
Details for all on UKC.
Smallacombe Rocks
James Squire has done the incredible hanging prow project to the right of Gems in a Granite Setting. Tried by Dave Henderson back in the day, and more recently by me (and likely others), James crazily did this thing by himself with just 4 pads. Named Commitment Issues and given 8A: https://www.instagram.com/p/Ca0a4mJtPnl/
Ausewell Rocks
No new climbing to report, but the access situation has improved for the better: the woods are now open to the public with a large car park.
Bench Tor
Some great-looking things tackling the roof under Bench Press have been done by Seth Macdonald: Stegasauras 7C+, and X Marks the Choss, 7B+ (details on UKC)
Heybrook Bay, Westlake Boulders, Bovisand Boulders
A bunch of new stuff done recently, details on UKC, of most interest for Plymouth locals I'd expect.
Great Rock
Great Train Robbery, 7A, FAd by George Hogarth, tackles the big boulder on the top of the ridge: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APEAUJXOTZI
East Side Boulders
A fair few new things at the lower grades done in the woods by Ryan Blackmore and Mike Marcus, details on UKC.
Middleworth Plantation
Nearby, some new things done by me just below the path on the way to Cuckoo Rock: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqMan4aOHvA
Cuckoo Rock
A low start to Dyno From Undercuts, done by James Whitehouse, called Dynoplay and given 7B.
Lakeside Boulders
Monkeyin' Around, 8A+, done by Solly KD: https://www.instagram.com/p/CM5B4GujR4I/
Gutter Tor
A bunch of lower-grade stuff has been done recently, seems like it has a nice little circuit.
Little and Great Trowlesworthy Tor
A number of things done by UKC user AMJ098, again seems like it has a nice little circuit.
Lustleigh
I think quite a few new things have been done here by Ben Rowe, but I don't have the details!
Torquay
A fair few things done by me and Alexis Perry, details on UKC (and I'm reaching writing exhaustion), probably time for a little guide soon...
Phew... Anything that I've missed out?
-
You missed one that I know of. Alexis Perry climbed the obvious crack left of Mufasa at Cartoonlands. He called it the Ten Crack Commandments and gave it 7C. Slightly tricky landing initially above the sloping block but it still seems to work. Some jamming involved but also some very interesting non-jamming moves! Looked pretty epic to me!
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cartoonlands-21937/the_ten_crack_commandments-651813
-
I’d be keen to see a no frills guide for the Torquay stuff please
-
You missed one that I know of. Alexis Perry climbed the obvious crack left of Mufasa at Cartoonlands. He called it the Ten Crack Commandments and gave it 7C. Slightly tricky landing initially above the sloping block but it still seems to work. Some jamming involved but also some very interesting non-jamming moves! Looked pretty epic to me!
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cartoonlands-21937/the_ten_crack_commandments-651813
Ah yes, I did forget about that one. Cheers.
I’d be keen to see a no frills guide for the Torquay stuff please
Cool, hopefully soon!
-
I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.
-
Lovely spot too
-
I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.
I heard this mentioned but didn't realise it was quite as extensive as 10 grade 7's - very keen to head down!
-
Good to Commitment Issues get done - it’s a fantastic line.
-
I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.
I heard this mentioned but didn't realise it was quite as extensive as 10 grade 7's - very keen to head down!
I stand corrected. 15. Although that includes the full traverse, and a few have shared starts.
It can be quite tricky to figure out what goes where at first. Alexis has linked to YouTube vids for the odd problem on UKC, might help
-
"Quite tricky"??
I had to go with almost impossible so hit the beach instead!!!
Hope you're well Ged!
-
I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.
There has been so much new stuff going down everywhere it is hard to keep pace and with the lack of someone like Hendo rounding things up a lot of it is slipping under the radar.
I just started cobbling together a list of new stuff done on Exmoor Coast in the last couple of years... thought it would be a quick job. :no:
That's just the tip of the iceberg though.. There's new stuff on the Culm lots of new stuff particularly around Milook/ Hartland. New stuff in Tintagel away from the main area . Bodmin Moor - new stuff around the Trewortha, Hawks, Kilmar area and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??
-
Grant, exmoor coast must have a huge amount of potential still does it? I spent a bit of time up there last summer, mainly running. But there is so much coast that is so innacessibke. Is there much around heddons mouth? Looked like lots of rock there.
-
… and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??
It’s coming along. No idea when it will be done (a while yet I reckon), but the sections which have been completed look brilliant - really clear, easy to use and stylish, crisp look to it.
-
… and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??
It’s coming along. No idea when it will be done (a while yet I reckon), but the sections which have been completed look brilliant - really clear, easy to use and stylish, crisp look to it.
Looking forwards to seeing it, the rate of development could make it an never ending task though!
Grant, exmoor coast must have a huge amount of potential still does it? I spent a bit of time up there last summer, mainly running. But there is so much coast that is so innacessibke. Is there much around heddons mouth? Looked like lots of rock there.
Nope. Everything has been done and what's left is :shit: :whistle:
Plenty of potential, especially if you're into long and/or adventurous approaches or own a boat. On the other hand there are some very good and very accessible venues that haven't been tapped to their full potential. I've recently done an excellent new one at Lynmouth that has been in plain sight for years (albeit a bit algae covered!). The coast comes into it's own over the summer months being north facing has it's advantages.
-
… and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??
It’s coming along. No idea when it will be done (a while yet I reckon), but the sections which have been completed look brilliant - really clear, easy to use and stylish, crisp look to it.
Looking forwards to seeing it, the rate of development could make it an never ending task though!
Grant, exmoor coast must have a huge amount of potential still does it? I spent a bit of time up there last summer, mainly running. But there is so much coast that is so innacessibke. Is there much around heddons mouth? Looked like lots of rock there.
Nope. Everything has been done and what's left is :shit: :whistle:
Plenty of potential, especially if you're into long and/or adventurous approaches or own a boat. On the other hand there are some very good and very accessible venues that haven't been tapped to their full potential. I've recently done an excellent new one at Lynmouth that has been in plain sight for years (albeit a bit algae covered!). The coast comes into it's own over the summer months being north facing has it's advantages.
Nice one Brutus! Where is this new problem at Lynmouth?
I've always wanted to try and mantle the nose that Slopey Traverse Extension begins on. May have to attempt that as a heinous new problem assuming it hasn't already been done.
-
… and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??
It’s coming along. No idea when it will be done (a while yet I reckon), but the sections which have been completed look brilliant - really clear, easy to use and stylish, crisp look to it.
Looking forwards to seeing it, the rate of development could make it an never ending task though!
Grant, exmoor coast must have a huge amount of potential still does it? I spent a bit of time up there last summer, mainly running. But there is so much coast that is so innacessibke. Is there much around heddons mouth? Looked like lots of rock there.
Nope. Everything has been done and what's left is :shit: :whistle:
Plenty of potential, especially if you're into long and/or adventurous approaches or own a boat. On the other hand there are some very good and very accessible venues that haven't been tapped to their full potential. I've recently done an excellent new one at Lynmouth that has been in plain sight for years (albeit a bit algae covered!). The coast comes into it's own over the summer months being north facing has it's advantages.
Nice one Brutus! Where is this new problem at Lynmouth?
I've always wanted to try and mantle the nose that Slopey Traverse Extension begins on. May have to attempt that as a heinous new problem assuming it hasn't already been done.
New one at Lynmouth is on the 'jammed log' boulder, first boulder you get to in the jumble beneath the big slab boulder. (The log is no longer there though!) .. Traverses the lip r to l beneath the v green slab on the seaward side of the boulder, needs summer, warm sunny breezy weather to be in condition Every Day I'm Shuffling 7b. Manteling this lip from hanging at any point would be very hard if you're into that sort of thing. Also the mantel on Walker's _ It Ain't Over Til It's Over is tough one. There currently isn't a direct mantel on the nose of the Slopey Traverse boulder, fill your boots. Capitalism sucks yoof :ras:
-
The mantel on It Aint Over Till Its Over looks great. I was hoping to hop on the new link Pete put up leading into it but it was too wet for that.
And dont say that about my beloved capitalism! I will buy the land at Lynmouth and make people pay £2 per attempt on Slopey Traverse.
-
Trying to work out who you are.. Not local, visited Lynmouth a fair bit. Hi Adam 👋 ???
You'd not make much money on Exmoor. Definitely a market to be exploited int Peak though!
-
Correct haha, good investigation work.
-
I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.
There has been so much new stuff going down everywhere it is hard to keep pace and with the lack of someone like Hendo rounding things up a lot of it is slipping under the radar.
I just started cobbling together a list of new stuff done on Exmoor Coast in the last couple of years... thought it would be a quick job. :no:
That's just the tip of the iceberg though.. There's new stuff on the Culm lots of new stuff particularly around Milook/ Hartland. New stuff in Tintagel away from the main area . Bodmin Moor - new stuff around the Trewortha, Hawks, Kilmar area and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??
Hey Brutus. Hope you're all good. Sorry only just seen this, I only ever lurk on here. Guide is coming along. I'd say 85% done, but not in a useful way, since every crag is 85% done. So there's lots of fiddly stuff to do basically and then there's paying for the damned thing to be printed etc., which will no doubt be a whole other story.
I think we've pretty much kept up with any significant developments on Bodmin Moor, South Coast and Penwith, but perhaps not the culm so much (remember, Hartland is not in!) - it's hard to find time to get up there between working, also Mr B. has his hands full these days.
Honestly though, general shout for anyone reading this thread, if you have done/know of anything good that's been done anywhere in Cornwall, then please get in touch and I can put stuff in. :punk:
Oh, and Kingholmsey, thanks for the shout :icon_beerchug:
-
Hi Tom :wave: I am all good. Hope things are good with you.
Cheers for the update. Such a difficult task putting together a guide, fully appreciate the effort. Even knocking up a basic topo for one venue is time consuming. I guess ultimately every guidebook producer has to draw the line and accept it's going to be out of date the day its printed.
-
I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.
There has been so much new stuff going down everywhere it is hard to keep pace and with the lack of someone like Hendo rounding things up a lot of it is slipping under the radar.
I just started cobbling together a list of new stuff done on Exmoor Coast in the last couple of years... thought it would be a quick job. :no:
That's just the tip of the iceberg though.. There's new stuff on the Culm lots of new stuff particularly around Milook/ Hartland. New stuff in Tintagel away from the main area . Bodmin Moor - new stuff around the Trewortha, Hawks, Kilmar area and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??
Hey Brutus. Hope you're all good. Sorry only just seen this, I only ever lurk on here. Guide is coming along. I'd say 85% done, but not in a useful way, since every crag is 85% done. So there's lots of fiddly stuff to do basically and then there's paying for the damned thing to be printed etc., which will no doubt be a whole other story.
I think we've pretty much kept up with any significant developments on Bodmin Moor, South Coast and Penwith, but perhaps not the culm so much (remember, Hartland is not in!) - it's hard to find time to get up there between working, also Mr B. has his hands full these days.
Honestly though, general shout for anyone reading this thread, if you have done/know of anything good that's been done anywhere in Cornwall, then please get in touch and I can put stuff in. :punk:
Oh, and Kingholmsey, thanks for the shout :icon_beerchug:
Alexis has done a bunch of stuff at Porth erras. He's not sure if it's new or not. Is that in?
-
I'm still amazed the stuff alexis hs done at hopes nose upper crag hasn't had more attention. Its so good. Upwards of 10 grade 7's, techy, high and very very good.
There has been so much new stuff going down everywhere it is hard to keep pace and with the lack of someone like Hendo rounding things up a lot of it is slipping under the radar.
I just started cobbling together a list of new stuff done on Exmoor Coast in the last couple of years... thought it would be a quick job. :no:
That's just the tip of the iceberg though.. There's new stuff on the Culm lots of new stuff particularly around Milook/ Hartland. New stuff in Tintagel away from the main area . Bodmin Moor - new stuff around the Trewortha, Hawks, Kilmar area and out in the wild wild far West, is that Cornwall bouldering guide ever going to see the light of day??
Hey Brutus. Hope you're all good. Sorry only just seen this, I only ever lurk on here. Guide is coming along. I'd say 85% done, but not in a useful way, since every crag is 85% done. So there's lots of fiddly stuff to do basically and then there's paying for the damned thing to be printed etc., which will no doubt be a whole other story.
I think we've pretty much kept up with any significant developments on Bodmin Moor, South Coast and Penwith, but perhaps not the culm so much (remember, Hartland is not in!) - it's hard to find time to get up there between working, also Mr B. has his hands full these days.
Honestly though, general shout for anyone reading this thread, if you have done/know of anything good that's been done anywhere in Cornwall, then please get in touch and I can put stuff in. :punk:
Oh, and Kingholmsey, thanks for the shout :icon_beerchug:
Alexis has done a bunch of stuff at Porth erras. He's not sure if it's new or not. Is that in?
Hi Ged.
Brilliant, thanks. I'll give him a shout. There were a couple of easy existing problems on the big pea boulders where the beach meets the descent which I've put in, but the hanging groove on them was an obvious problem that needed to be done. I wonder if it was that?
Cheers for the info ;D
Brutus. You're right, but I can pretty easily add new stuff up to the 11th hour, it's all the fiddly nonsense at the end that's the pain. And maps! Urgh.
-
Maps are indeed a pain in behind.
Mikey's done loads of stuff from Moor to coast most of which I'm sure he's spoken to you about but he may have snuck some bits in that you're not aware of.
Worth talking to Solly, Kyle and Ruby about new stuff they've done on the Cornish Culm.
-
A quick update blog on some very cool new things that have been done over the last year or so on the eternal backwater that is the Exmoor Coast. It's all insta links I'm afraid but hit me up if you don't instaspam and want more information or details on approaches, venues etc.
(Rumour has it that up to dates guides are incoming for Exmoor trad and undocumented bouldering venues are in production, contact Martin Crocker if you have details of anything trad like!)
https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/post/exmoor-coast-update-september-2022 (https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/post/exmoor-coast-update-september-2022)
-
Rumour has it that up to dates guides are incoming for Exmoor trad
That sounds exciting - there’s a lot of rock on that coast and some excellent, infrequently travelled, trad.
-
Rumour has it that up to dates guides are incoming for Exmoor trad
That sounds exciting - there’s a lot of rock on that coast and some excellent, infrequently travelled, trad.
Martin Crocker is busy compiling notes etc.. so much good quality rock (and some other rock ;)) with an extra element of adventure and remoteness despite being relatively close to civilisation. Didn't you repeat some stuff near Lee Abbey with Stu B? I'm sure MC would appreciate any information anyone who has visited recently has got, particularly if nature's done some resetting.
-
Didn't you repeat some stuff near Lee Abbey with Stu B?
I repeated Crocker’s route Terry (named in honour of Terry Cheek) and on my recommendation Stu has since climbed it too.
This four pitch E5 is one of the best sea cliff routes I have ever done and I would highly recommend it. The rock and gear is a bit spicy in places, but the hardest climbing is all well protected and on good rock. Overall it’s quite soft for E5 too - I don’t get up hard E5s!
Stu has also repeated Turnball’s route Chimney Sweep which is E5 (or XS) and shares the same first pitch. He said it was pretty good, although being Stu he was disappointed that more offwidthing wasn’t required. :lol:
The nearby Yellow Stone offers some less committing but still worthwhile single pitches.
All of the above is already in Littlejohn’s SW Climbs. There must be swathes of rock along that coast though not currently covered by a guide, including plenty of unclimbed shale challenges for anyone keen. ;)
-
I repeated Crocker’s route Terry (named in honour of Terry Cheek) and on my recommendation Stu has since climbed it too.
This four pitch E5 is one of the best sea cliff routes I have ever done and I would highly recommend it. The rock and gear is a bit spicy in places, but the hardest climbing is all well protected and on good rock. Overall it’s quite soft for E5 too - I don’t get up hard E5s!
I'm sure you're just being modest! I don't get up any E5s myself, let alone 4 pitches bit hard to protect with crashpads. I knew there was a connection with Stu as I recalled him mentioning you (don't worry he was full of praise!) at a talk pre COVID times.
Terry was an absolute legend and really encouraging on bouldering and promoting climbing in general on Exmoor Coast. Apt that the route named in his honour is a diamond.
Exmoor has always had that little bit of mystery about it and never truly been in vogue. Just a little bit tricky to get to and harder to find information on but damn does it reward the effort. Been in love with the place since I move to N Devon and it hasn't really wavered.
-
:lol: glad to hear Stu had nice things to say.
I’ve not climbed on the Exmoor coast since moving further west into Cornwall, but I ought to make the effort again sometime. If only there was a decent guide …
-
Hi folks
Great thread.
We are going to be staying in the South West for a couple weeks late July and early August.
Staying in Croyde for a week and near St Columb major the second week.
Reading this thread and looking on UKC there is obv loads of bouldering.
Will be there with the family and likely have a few evenings to get out bouldering.
Wondering if there was any recommendations for family friendly venues.
Ideally would have easy stuff and things in the 6`s and low 7`s.
Lynmouth looks like could be a good option?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
-
While staying at St Columb I suggest Little Fistral for bits and bobs of bouldering straight off the beach.
Other options would be Helman Tor or Roche Rock inland if it’s not too hot for the granite. The latter has less bouldering than the former but has some bits, plus some easy routes if you’re into soloing.
All are family friendly (short walk ins, flat areas to chill) and you should find enough info on UKC to get by without a guide.
-
Ideally would have easy stuff and things in the 6`s and low 7`s.
Lynmouth looks like could be a good option?
Lynmouth is great, some really good problems there. The Joker And the Theif 7A is probably the best problem there. Twister is a good 6A crack thing on the same section.
Hartland is well worth the drive while there, beautiful place.
-
Lynmouth is great, some really good problems there. The Joker And the Theif 7A is probably the best problem there. Twister is a good 6A crack thing on the same section.
Hartland is well worth the drive while there, beautiful place.
Why thank you! :-[ Joker and the Thief is one I am particularly proud of.
If you are looking for a quick hit of some excellent low to mid-grade bouldering on your doorstep in Croyde. I recommend Down End Point! The point between Croyde and Saunton Sands. Park at last lay-by before sharp bend into Croyde - walk straight down through the field... find a fisherman's rope down a gulley and head rightwards to the zawn's beneath the big white house off of Grand Designs. No guides, no info.. locals training ground pioneered by legend Steve Jossyln.
Lynmouth fits your requirements perfectly - expect a 45min drive from Croyde depending on your rural driving skills! East for a compact, easy access area and west for destination problems like Anarchy Arete! Guide and details of newer stuff on exmoorbouldering.com
Check out my instaspam @brutusthebear , Ruby Petch's, Solly Kemball Dory's and Kyle Whitehand's for a taster/ inspiration.
Hartland Quay is brilliant - lower to mid -grades head for The Trench and beyond or go to one of the best bits of rock in the UK and try Carnage! Probably an hour ish to drive from Croyde.
There is a team of us out and about in the area regularly. Feel free to PM me if you're feeling social, want a spot/ more paddage.
The tide is now your master and you will need to know when low-tide is in order to avoid disappointment!
-
On a different note, did I imagine that there is a Cornwall bouldering guide in production? If there is, any idea when it's out?
-
+1 for Carnage. Probably one of the best 7Bs I've done with similair quality to Paul o Grady I North Wales (clearly I like slopers on volcanics!)
-
Dependent on the age of your kid(s), Tintagel is a lovely spot on a wave cut platform, not a long approach, but there is a bit of a steep descent to get down.
Carnage is indeed amazing (made of shale though Yetix :) ), but has a scramble to get down to, so potentially not one for the family! If you do get down there though you're likely to have a boulder beach to yourself!
-
Carnage is indeed amazing (made of shale though Yetix :) )
It's Culm sandstone no?
Lots of pads needed for Carnage. Found it pretty scary on my own. On the other side of the Quay the Trench area is great fun, can just work your way along the wall.
-
+1 for Carnage. Probably one of the best 7Bs I've done with similair quality to Paul o Grady I North Wales (clearly I like slopers on volcanics!)
Slopers? :blink: Carnage - savage pull on undercuts, into a crimp followed by more undercuts into a finger jug... Big burley moves on an overhanging wall on Culm (carboniferous sandstone/ shale). The important part being it is very good!
Missed the family friendly bit.. Lynmouth East easily accessible and a great beach for the chidlers to mooch about on looking for sea glass/ scrambling/ paddling, all the usual tourist trappings for pre or post bouldering treats ice cream, pasties, fudge, fish n chips, cream teas, pint etc...
Lynmouth West - Is not so accessible, boulder hopping, lots of potential for unwary chidlers to fall down gaps in the rocks etc.. not ideal for a family trip out but a relatively quick way to find yourself feeling miles away from civilization in a stunning environment.
Hartland Quay - Carnage Wall involves an easy scramble to boulder hop. The Trench, Ache Ball cave, Clinical Edge etc.. boulder hopping across a large bay. Rhino boulder and End is Nigh etc.. Walk along coast path, scramble down a slab using fisherman's rope (quite a big overlap half way down) followed by boulder hopping. Hotel/ Pub for post session pint/ grub.
-
Thanks everyone for all the amazing beta and recommendations, super excited now!
Lynmouth for The Joker and the Thief sounds like a great aim for the first week.
Tintagel looks brilliant. Might go on an evening myself first and check approach - kids are 12 and 14.
Just watched the vid of carnage, looks ace but probs a bit burly for me!
We were in Croyde last year for a week but didnt climb at all - do remember walking past the big white house from Grand Designs though so also keen to check out Down End Point.
Little Fistral looks an amazing spot from the UKC pics for the second week.
Also cool to here there are granite inland options as well if temps are ok.
Thanks again everyone :2thumbsup:
-
On a different note, did I imagine that there is a Cornwall bouldering guide in production? If there is, any idea when it's out?
I know the Tom's (Last & Bunn) are working on a guide but I think it's been in production for quite a long time (probably a passion project) and no idea when they are aiming to get it out. Probably worth shooting Tom a message to ask.
Edit: Just found this update saying they are in the final parts of production from 21 weeks ago: https://www.instagram.com/p/Co-EhdltatF/
-
At 12 and 14, JJP your wildlings will be absolutely fine on all of the approaches mentioned. They will be fine going west at Lynmouth too.
Have a good one. :2thumbsup:
-
Just posted up a blog with details of new stuff at Lynmouth. Some fine highballs and some stuff that is accessible when the tide is in.
https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/post/lynmouth-circuit-gets-bigger-topos-and-details (https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/post/lynmouth-circuit-gets-bigger-topos-and-details)
-
Has anyone tried the unclimbed roof project next to tombstone in cheddar gorge?
Went to have a look at tombstone but it was sopping wet so was forced onto the neighbouring roof. Did a couple of the moves but linking anything felt proper ‘ard. Wondered if anyone’s given it any attention?
-
A Walker Kearney problem based in Lustleigh Cleave, Called “The Great White Slope”.
Anyone have any info? Found one clip on YouTube,
https://youtu.be/fRnx3df9tHE?si=4LJQ_Ynnlm4jy4SP
I’ve found the boulder and given it a good clean but will return to finish cleaning with the right equipment.
The clip doesnt state a grade and it’s not on ukc so I can’t find any info on past sends or attempts.
Any info would be great, cheers :beer2:
-
If it's a walker problem and he bothered videoing it then probably V8 + Dartmoor grading, so V10 ISH :lol:
-
It is one of Walker's and he probably graded it 'low to mid 7' or something like that (Macca will have a record of what Walker 'graded' it)...but take any Walker 'grade' with a large bucket of salt.
I presume it will have made its way into the new Devon Bouldering Rockfax guide which will be coming out any day now.
-
For nostalgias sake
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/01/gone_west_-_bouldering_in_devon_and_cornwall-73574
-
A Walker Kearney problem based in Lustleigh Cleave, Called “The Great White Slope”.
Anyone have any info? Found one clip on YouTube,
https://youtu.be/fRnx3df9tHE?si=4LJQ_Ynnlm4jy4SP
I’ve found the boulder and given it a good clean but will return to finish cleaning with the right equipment.
The clip doesnt state a grade and it’s not on ukc so I can’t find any info on past sends or attempts.
Any info would be great, cheers :beer2:
If it's not on ukc it doesn't exist
::)
I can tell you that it is in the Nutcrackers area at the Cleave, it's desperate and probably will need a clean. Unrepeated AFAIK as is Yankee Doodle Dandy at the other end of the Cleave. I could find it myself but it is nigh on impossible to describe where it is!! Go to the Nutcrackers and have a sniff around.
Walker never gives a grade so it could be anything high 7s and up most likely.