[Andy W]

And on a less positive note. I went to Clodgy today and  I’m reluctant to say but am pretty certain a hold has been chipped on ‘Boomerang’ 7A+ at Clodgy Point, St Ives. As a first ascentionist and the fact that I’ve climbed this problem many times, familiarity suggests its been chipped. It doesn’t show any evidence that a storm may have have thrown up a rock or waves removed stone. Looking at the photo it appears pretty blatantly intentional, the fact that it makes a perfect hold in just the right place to make the problem easier, suggests some ignorant f..ck has chipped it.

What can one say, not a lot, but there are sure some ignorant fools out bouldering these days. I of course as an old fart blame indoor walls.

Boomerang is classic.  That sucks.  So gutting when it happens to your own problems. 

Foothold has got suspiciously larger on Joker and the Thief at Lynmouth, could be storm damage but it would be a one in the million for damage to hit that one tiny spot.  Thought that being in a relative bouldering back water we would avoid some of this shit.

It's puzzling, as "going equipped to chip" seems pretty strange.
Suggests someone who has been, tried, failed and gone back with intent?

Generally, people have a brush, not a hammer.

Blaming the "yoof" is probably a little simplistic, surely the action of a deluded individual and nothing new?

After all, you don't get to reset a problem at the wall because you can't do it.

Matt have you looked at the photo? The damage is certainly hold improvement beyond the scope of a brush. I'm not saying its a youth done the chipping, but my guess is its a youngster with more ambition than sense. Also down this way you do see some strange things, there is less of a scene thus its possible for people to get less knowledge, ethics etc from older climbers and peers. The walls down here are also not that great and do I'm afraid to say generate some of the aforementioned 'strange things'

[Oldmanmatt]

Yeah, I saw the pictures.
Sad.

Seems most likely to be a local though (I grew up in St Tudy), it's a long way to go, fail and go back with a chisel.
That was my point about the brush.
Who goes to a new crag, equipped to make their own problems?

Isn't the nearest wall in Truro? And one in Newquay? Not visited any of them yet so know nothing about them.

I really struggle to grasp why anyone would do it. I can see they did and can't fathom any reason for a non-climber doing it, but how can anyone think it's a valid way of climbing a problem?

It has to be someone very, very strange.

Someone deluded as to their status as a "climber".

[granticus]

Alas, unless someone is caught in the act, will never know who or why...

I was in Font quite a few years ago, the morning after a disgruntled local (called Luke?) had just lost it and chipped several classic problems (inc. Carnage and Karma).  He had some sort of beef with a local climbing organisation/ club and clearly some mental health issues.

Point being; Could be for any number of reasons and not necessarily to make the problem easier or harder.

[Andy W]

The morning after. I'm prepared to accept that the chipping may not be the work of a 'wall bred youth'. But I still think that its been done by someone with the intention of making the problem easier, positioning and size etc indicate this. Mainly though I'm more saddened.

[Duma]

These two look good:

[andy popp]

Two mini Duels.

[granticus]

The youth is on fire at the minute.   

[Kingy]

Well impressed with this! They both look utterly desparate.

[granticus]

http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/mikey-cleverdon-sends-dartmoor-8a-fa-waterhouse-repeats/

Another 8a for the moor...  This time Mikey's done the sitter to Super Trooper.  Quick repeat by Alex Waterhouse.

[granticus]

Incidentally, anyone visiting Saddle Tor and wondering why on earth problem 6 and the traverse feel utterly desperate.  It's because a hold has broken off, what remains is apparently a teeny, tiny and very sharp crimp.  At the moment the consensus is to leave it as is and see if anyone manages to crank on said tiny crimp. 

[Oldmanmatt]

http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/mikey-cleverdon-sends-dartmoor-8a-fa-waterhouse-repeats/

Another 8a for the moor...  This time Mikey's done the sitter to Super Trooper.  Quick repeat by Alex Waterhouse.

Super Trooper was my Dartmoor nemesis.
Even Ed Gow-Smith hasn't finished it. The sitter is just nuts hard.

[Oldmanmatt]

Incidentally, anyone visiting Saddle Tor and wondering why on earth problem 6 and the traverse feel utterly desperate.  It's because a hold has broken off, what remains is apparently a teeny, tiny and very sharp crimp.  At the moment the consensus is to leave it as is and see if anyone manages to crank on said tiny crimp.

I thought problem 6 was Super Trooper?
And isn't that part of the traverse "Abba Gold"?

This might be because I'm using Grimer's book, not the Javu topo...

[granticus]

I thought problem 6 was Super Trooper?
And isn't that part of the traverse "Abba Gold"?

This might be because I'm using Grimer's book, not the Javu topo...

Yep. Was referring to the cycling butty dodger's website not Boulder Britain. 

All is not lost, Saddle Tor traverse can still be linked by taking a higher a line and dropping down into it's finish at a similar grade.

A lot of people are touting Super Trooper as being V9, still on my ever growing list of to dos.

[kingholmesy]

At the moment the consensus is to leave it as is and see if anyone manages to crank on said tiny crimp.

I totally get the rationale for this view. Personally though I wouldn't be adverse to the old hold being neatly glued back on (it's pretty intact), but I suppose this is the Moor not the Tor.

[macca7]

There has been a lot of activity up at the Nutcrackers at Lustleigh on Dartmoor over the last few weekends.

New problems have been unearthed and the established problems have had a good clean.

Work started with some additions to established boulders and since then has moved into full on unearthing and cleaning mode! Nothing of a huge grade has been done as yet but some classy problems have been sent. All of the new stuff is listed under the crag on the other channel but the highlights of the new stuff includes.

Cowboy Butcher
Careless Whisper sit and stand
Conscientious Twix
Bear Arete
Clockwork Orange

There is a video below done by a group who have done a lot of the cleaning and new problems and many thanks go to them for all there hard work.
 

Any feedback on the grades would be appreciated as none of us can seem to agree on anything!

Hope to see you up there!

Cheers Macca

[Steamboat Stello]

Can confirm that these new things are good and the cleaned-up old stuff is not half bad either. This could be one of the better bouldering venues on the moor with a bit more traffic. I messaged you on the other channel as well! Did a problem not on the list on the warm up boulder at the far right hand end. Really cool move, dynoing from undercuts. Prob been done and don't care about retro-claiming but thought others might like it.

[Steamboat Stello]

I should add: Thanks to those who put in the effort with the cleaning. Appreciated.

[macca7]

Hi

Thanks for the message and glad you enjoyed it up there yesterday. I presume you were one of the pair we passed on the warm up boulder and then saw again later?

It is a good spot and now has a really nice circuit of problems. I will stick that line on the list.

Thanks for the feedback and hope to see you up there soon.

Cheers

Macca

[Steamboat Stello]

Yeah that was us. I presume you were one of the big team that was there.

Good name by the way

[Duma]

These two look good:

Repeated Hypothesis today, great problem (if, as ever on the moor, a little sharp...) 7C seems fair.

[Beastly Squirrel]

Some footage from Huntsham, just about scrapes in as south west

[Duma]

Nice work James! Good to see goliath get finished off after your near misses.

[macca7]

Was there a team down in Bovey Woods yesterday?

Looked like there might have been a few in the Devon Sent area? Hope it went well if my suspicions are right. Its was glorious in there!

Would be good to know!

[Steamboat Stello]

We were in there, but at Stonelands. Contemplated having a look at Devon Sent but decided against it, seemed a bit warm and muggy so not sure conditions would have been absolutely prime but I could be wrong!

Lovely day out.

[macca7]

It was bloody warm in there at times!

What did you get on at Stonelands theres been a fair bit of work and new stuff done there recently how did you find it?

We were over at Pixies Copse and had a cracking afternoon, after the weather in the morning it was more than a pleasant surprise!