UKBouldering.com

South West (England) Bouldering (Read 167379 times)

BrutusTheBear

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 568
  • Karma: +59/-3
  • Certified socialist talking head of this world.
#325 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
December 15, 2015, 08:40:47 pm
 :wave: Been a while..  Had to start a new profile (all those wad points gone :wavecry:).

Visiting seppo Walker has been a busy boy on the moor, details in his blog..

http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/finding-worthy-rocks-first-ascents-in.html

macca7

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 156
  • Karma: +4/-0
#326 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 18, 2016, 06:57:57 pm
Has anyone got the details on Walkers goings on. Would be good to get all of his stuff documented and Mikeys Lustleigh addition!

Cheers

Macca

BrutusTheBear

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 568
  • Karma: +59/-3
  • Certified socialist talking head of this world.
#327 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 18, 2016, 08:35:38 pm
Here's what I know...
Overshadowed is at Easdon, the arête of Easdon slab if that makes sense. Maybe v7 ish.
Think Tom Rainbow was with him for the ascents in the woods. Tom??
Over The Mountain is Over the Hill sans block at the back, climbed compression style. At least V10 (Newberry is rumoured to have lanked err I mean climbed it in a different fashion).  Little Tom?
Mikey's problem is the arête to the right of Creamtime and was dubbed Cream First in reference to scones. V6ish.  Can't remember who said but possibly climbed previously by Ben Rowe?
Yankee Doodle Dandy is the solution to the project on the project Boulder at Ravens in the Cleave. No idea what grade but finishes with a wild dyno. Probably nails.
The Gift and the Snaresbrook Snake Charmer are at W?***cott Rocks but you're not allowed to climb there so don't get any ideas. (The former was Hendos project and the latter an extension so could be tricky, look good though).
What else do I know?  Walker is the most psyched person I know and I know some very psyched  people.  The British weather and trips overseas to places where there is decent rock might dampen the enthusiasm a little!?  Oh and he's blimmin strong.  :strongbench:




macca7

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 156
  • Karma: +4/-0
#328 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 20, 2016, 09:13:46 am
Hi Grant

Thanks for that. I spoke to him just before he left so was aware of Over the Mountain and Yankee.... Thanks for having a stab at the grades. I thought Mikes thing was to the right of creamtime it looked like it in the picture. Wasn't aware of Overshadowed!

Ive seen the problems at W******** very good circuit lovely place. The gift looks nails!

Newberry mentioned he had cheated his way up Over the Mountain. No surprise there he's like that!

There are a few other things in Lustleigh that he's done so I need to find out about those. If there is any other info out there would be great to hear!

He is one strong super motivated young dude!


BrutusTheBear

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 568
  • Karma: +59/-3
  • Certified socialist talking head of this world.
#329 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 21, 2016, 08:56:28 pm
Ive seen the problems at W******** very good circuit lovely place. The gift looks nails!
Definitely want to go and check these out soon.

Will try and get some more info. out of Walker next time we hook up.

Desperately waiting for the Cleave to dry up so I can get back on Creamtime.

BrutusTheBear

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 568
  • Karma: +59/-3
  • Certified socialist talking head of this world.
#330 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 22, 2016, 08:56:17 pm
Really rather good looking new problem, new Dartmoor classic etc. etc.  goes down.  Have only heard good things from those that've been there.  See below.

http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.co.uk/2016/03/one-of-dartmoors-best-boulder-problems.html


macca7

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 156
  • Karma: +4/-0
#331 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 22, 2016, 10:46:59 pm
It is a good spot if it's the arête to the right of dead squirrel ... Tom is that what I think it is? Looked absolute nails when we were down there early 2014? I heard he was heading down there on Sunday is that when he did it? He's certainly impressive young walker!

tomrainbow

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 103
  • Karma: +12/-0
#332 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 23, 2016, 06:58:42 am
Yes, that's right, it's the sit start to Dead Squirrel Edge. What a beautiful bit of rock!

It was early 2015 we were there Macca, is time dragging?

The thing that always makes me chuckle is Bendy wheeling out the last of the last great problems line every time he reports a new problem. He did it for YYD then two weeks later is reporting this. There are tons of fantastic unclimbed lines out there still.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5784
  • Karma: +230/-4
#333 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 23, 2016, 07:03:13 am
Mikey Cleverdon did his link up project on the wave last night too, Nazarre into the Green Room. "The Waterman" 8B.

tomrainbow

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 103
  • Karma: +12/-0
#334 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 23, 2016, 08:34:37 am
When I said YYD I meant YDD - Yankee Doodle Dandy.

Some new stuff at Cartoonlands recently too - Walker's done about 5 problems up to about 7b and Mikey did the L hand start to Mufasa but I don't know how hard he thought this was (I would guess probably 7b?). I put a few new 7a/7a+s there. All on excellent rock and in a lovely spot.

Duncan campbell

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 775
  • Karma: +47/-2
#335 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 23, 2016, 09:05:44 am
Oh man I wanna do Devon Sent! When/if I'm ever good enough the parents might actually see me for once!!

BrutusTheBear

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 568
  • Karma: +59/-3
  • Certified socialist talking head of this world.
#336 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 23, 2016, 09:21:24 am
Mikey Cleverdon did his link up project on the wave last night too, Nazarre into the Green Room. "The Waterman" 8B.
. Beat me to it!  Was there with Mikey for a lot of his sessions working this (whilst working Tsunami myself) and pleased to be there on Monday evening when he finally put it together. :beer2:
Awesome effort and perseverance on his part.
The list of hard test pieces, quality lines and quality venues on Dartmoor is growing fast.  Cheers to all the beys doing on the hard work bushwacking and cleaning!

macca7

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 156
  • Karma: +4/-0
#337 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 23, 2016, 09:42:50 am
2015! Are you sure Tom!

What has Walker done at Cartoonlands then, which lines. I presume Mikey did the left line from a sit that we were looking at?

Theres still some lovely looking stuff left in there let alone the rest of the moor!

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5784
  • Karma: +230/-4
#338 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 23, 2016, 12:08:46 pm


Cheers to all the beys doing on the hard work bushwacking and cleaning!
Agree!


tomrainbow

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 103
  • Karma: +12/-0
#339 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 23, 2016, 05:42:20 pm
Walker's done four new problems that I know of at Cartoonlands....

The traverse out of the cave on Fred Basset, two lines R of Mufasa (the rounded arête and a line L using the crimp flake) and the R side of the Midges from Mordor arête into the sharp arête, which I assumed he climbed on the R. He also reckons the amazing wall will go...possibly without a jump!

All these problems are in the high 6s low to mid 7s but he does have commitment issues...when it comes to grading at least, so won't be pinned down to an actual grade.

macca7

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 156
  • Karma: +4/-0
#340 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 23, 2016, 08:07:15 pm
Cheers Mate!

Once again my memory has let me down as you did mention the two to the left of Mufusa before. The right side of midges arete is the line Steve was talking about when we were there then?

The traverse out of the cave was the line he tried all the way back in 2014 or was it 2015?

The wall definitely needs to go with out a jump!

I'll let you know re Fri but it doesn't look good ill text you about wend!

BrutusTheBear

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 568
  • Karma: +59/-3
  • Certified socialist talking head of this world.
#341 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 08, 2016, 05:42:26 pm
Found someone's rope on the ground under The Woodsman in Bovey Woods let me know if it's yours and you want it back.

Really cool problem, amazing setting, compelling line, tall etc. etc.  But just as I was unlocking a sequence it did split a tip, hand no tape, had to abandon.

tomrainbow

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 103
  • Karma: +12/-0
#342 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 08, 2016, 06:30:58 pm
Hi Grant,

I 'lost' a rope in the woods a year ago from under the Jungle Room. It was red and black (Mammut I think). Does it sound familiar?

Glad you liked the problem...loads of new stuff going down at the moment. Bumped into Walker at Red Dragon today!

Tom

BrutusTheBear

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 568
  • Karma: +59/-3
  • Certified socialist talking head of this world.
#343 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 08, 2016, 07:59:53 pm
I 'lost' a rope in the woods a year ago from under the Jungle Room. It was red and black (Mammut I think). Does it sound familiar?

Glad you liked the problem...loads of new stuff going down at the moment. Bumped into Walker at Red Dragon today!
Alas tis only a wee bit of rope and does not fit your description.. 
Gets about a bit does that Walker.

Incidentally, a week or so ago the Beastly Sqwurrl repeated the unnamed V7 problem up at Saddle Tor post hold breakage (he gave it a name Weekend Warrior and a grade 8a), Newberry repeated it a couple of days ago and suggests 7b+.  Mikey Cleverdon broke the hold again this morning, something bigger is left over. . Get in there quick if you want a very soft 8a repeat!

tomrainbow

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 103
  • Karma: +12/-0
#344 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 08, 2016, 10:24:48 pm
Damn, my wee bit of rope was about 50m long...not sure how much I would trust a rope that was left at the crag without knowing its history but obviously someone out there is happy to take that chance - or flog it on ebay?

Has anybody repeated Tropic Thunder yet?

tomrainbow

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 103
  • Karma: +12/-0
#345 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 08, 2016, 10:26:19 pm
Oh yes, while I'm at it Grant, do you have any idea of the grade of Mikey's new problem at Cartoonlands (Mufasa left hand start)? I had a quick play on it and it felt pretty hard...

BrutusTheBear

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 568
  • Karma: +59/-3
  • Certified socialist talking head of this world.
#346 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 09, 2016, 09:53:19 am
 :no: whoever took your rope clearly wasn't there just by chance, sad because it's likely to be someone known to one of us.

No repeats of Tropic Thunder that I know of despite some attention from strong folk.
Haven't been yet and can't wait to try all the new things popping up everywhere after putting lots of time in at the Wave. 

Think Mikey said 7b ish, saw video of it, pretty highball, apparently he was expecting jugs at the top and got a bit frightened!

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5784
  • Karma: +230/-4
#347 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 19, 2016, 10:31:41 pm
Walker's new thing at Lustleigh:

andyd

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1173
  • Karma: +52/-2
    • https://vimeo.com/user14959179
#348 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 19, 2016, 11:03:30 pm
Looks good. Video made me giggle with the indecision!

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5784
  • Karma: +230/-4
#349 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 19, 2016, 11:27:31 pm
Yeah, vids good isn't it!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal