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South West (England) Bouldering (Read 167215 times)

tomrainbow

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#200 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 13, 2014, 09:59:55 pm
I have put details of directions and woodland navigation for Bovey Woods on the Shaptor wiki site so you now have no excuses for getting lost. Despite all the rain we've had recently, quite a lot was dry enough to climb on Saturday.

http://shaptor.wikifoundry.com/page/Directions

granticus

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#201 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 13, 2014, 10:13:40 pm
Nice one Tom, particularly helpful parking beta.   :)

EdGowSmith

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#202 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
January 13, 2014, 10:53:39 pm
Awesome :)

granticus

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#203 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 02, 2014, 11:59:56 am
Little bit of footage from Saddle Tor in January.




macca7

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#204 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 02, 2014, 07:46:52 pm
Just been for a walk to Upton and the start of Wet Bootie is now burried under a pile of large stones!

Could take a while to clear out alternatively another good tide and it may all disappear!

Could be a fair few problems affected down these parts only time will tell I guess!

Cheers

Macca

highrepute

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#205 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 03, 2014, 10:55:50 pm
Little bit of footage from Saddle Tor in January.




Thanks for posting.

Does it often get that busy up there?!

granticus

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#206 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 03, 2014, 11:27:00 pm
Little bit of footage from Saddle Tor in January.




Thanks for posting.

Does it often get that busy up there?!

Definitely not a typical day at Saddle Tor or any Tor for that matter.  A bit of a gathering was organized to bring in the New Year.  The rain thinned out the numbers in the afternoon but it was drying out pretty fast after the squalls and the hardcore of us kept going into dark. 

granticus

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#207 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 03, 2014, 11:35:01 pm
Just been for a walk to Upton and the start of Wet Bootie is now burried under a pile of large stones!
Could take a while to clear out alternatively another good tide and it may all disappear!
Thanks Macca..  There was a big block sat under it before the storms, I was hoping that all the activity would clear it out not make it worse!

In the unlikely event that anyone should decide to boulder down at Sillery Sands, Exmoor Coast.  The steps to access the beach have been washed away and it is dangerous/ impossible to climb down, a stake and a rope would help.

EdGowSmith

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#208 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 18, 2014, 11:03:11 pm
Bouldering in Godrevy from a couple weeks back.
Conditions weren't perfect, so didn't get to try some stuff I would've liked to.
Still, managed to get footage of a few things.
Thanks to Andy W for showing me around :)



jstrongman

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#209 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 19, 2014, 09:39:28 am
Nice one Ed, did you tick all those problems in a session? Good to see you got a chance to do trigonometry, I love that problem, such a shame most of the time there is a massive rock pool under it.

highrepute

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#210 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 19, 2014, 10:49:19 am
Nic Ed. Good vid, thanks for sharing. looks like you made the most of the conditions. I need to to get down there!

granticus

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#211 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 19, 2014, 12:00:02 pm
Nice vid Ed!

Some updates for some coastal bouldering venues in the SW.  The big storms and tides were bound to take their toll or create something new.

I hear on the grapevine that boulders at Tintagel have been reshuffled, they are big blocs but it appears the waves had no problem shifting stuff around.  Some old problems are now rendered un-doable and there are apparently lots of new lines to be had... go check it out!  Mother nature's been re-setting!

Lynmouth levels have changed considerably in places, the zawn with Chimpanzee Achne, Time and Tide etc.  has filled right up, highballs are now relatively lowball - a good time to get those top-outs wired!  Face off has block under it hampering the start again and the beach level is high on this bloc, you can claim the ticks if you want but you know you're only doing half a problem!

Northcott, Hartland and Dartmoor seem to be unaffected.

Mentioned before - Sillery Sands is not accessible safely via the zig-zag path with out rope tactics.

Anyone been anywhere else that has changed?

highrepute

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#212 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 19, 2014, 12:10:46 pm
I hear on the grapevine that boulders at Tintagel have been reshuffled, they are big blocs but it appears the waves had no problem shifting stuff around.  Some old problems are now rendered un-doable and there are apparently lots of new lines to be had... go check it out!  Mother nature's been re-setting!

wow! If that's true then that's some impressive re-shuffling.

tomrainbow

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#213 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 19, 2014, 11:05:11 pm
Unbelievably, considering the number of huge trees that have fallen over the Winter, it looks as though the boulders in Bovey Woods have escaped more or less unscathed.

turnipturned

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#214 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 20, 2014, 08:22:50 am
Crazy Tintagel blocks has move, they are huge!

EdGowSmith

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#215 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 22, 2014, 08:04:15 pm
Went to Tintagel North today.
First time there so not sure on the extent of what's changed.
However, the start of Kids is now covered in boulders and so is undoable  :thumbsdown: :wavecry::


And it looks like the boulders covering it have come from underneath the Purple Haze boulder, making the starts of the problems interesting:


Most of the other problems seem to have remained unchanged, though like I said I can't be totally sure.

On a separate note, is the topo for Pink Floyd in Boulder Britain correct? I followed the line shown in the guide but it felt more like 6B+ than 7A!

Andy W

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#216 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 24, 2014, 10:06:09 am
The bottom of the purple haze boulder looks like it might be better after the storms, I've only been once but it looks like it might make lower starts etc?

The storms didn't cause that much damage down here, at least not at Clodgy and Godrevy, I haven't been elsewhere yet.

Duma

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#217 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 25, 2014, 02:45:49 pm


Wonderland - new 7C+/8A in West Penwith - looks ace!

Looks like some good new starts to be done to the Purple haze boulder  :bounce:

TN080

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#218 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 28, 2014, 08:17:54 pm
Tintagel Update:

Some good and bad news I guess, but I would say that most the changes at Tintagel have been for the better.

Bad News:
- Kids is no longer
- Colorado Dreaming has changed angle, it is now lower to the ground and the feet maybe better, top out is easier. I would say probably easier than its previous state but at similar grade. On the up side it is more open in the cave as boulders to left have gone meaning it is likely to be drier more often.

Good news:
- Lots of new easier lines to go at dotted about the place.
- left of kids is a corridor of new rock opened up, makes a good warm up/eliminates wall.
- Best of all the purple haze bloc has finally been opened up, I have been dreaming of this since first finding the place. Now one of my favourite boulders on the coast! Topo with the main lines on can be found here... https://www.dropbox.com/s/ya15ch38nwupg2z/Topo.jpg (sorry dont know how to import images).

Green – Hurler SDS V8: start sitting on low shelf follow the rail to the ledge and a tricky rockover. Take a big bucket to empty the rock pool below.
White – Project: sitter into undercut…
Red – The AWOL Apprentice V9? Start matched on lowest rail follow holds in the seam. Amazing maybe the best V9 on the coast. A variation finishes up purple haze at a similar grade.
Purple – All along the Watchtower V8: Start up Purple haze traverse the lip using a rose move into and up The AWOL Apprentice.
Yellow – Purple Haze V6
Blue – V8: Traverse from Hurler into the start of Purple Haze, after the crux break out left along jugs. Climbs really well.


Andy W

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#219 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 29, 2014, 05:23:13 pm
Tintagel Update:

Some good and bad news I guess, but I would say that most the changes at Tintagel have been for the better.

Bad News:
- Kids is no longer
- Colorado Dreaming has changed angle, it is now lower to the ground and the feet maybe better, top out is easier. I would say probably easier than its previous state but at similar grade. On the up side it is more open in the cave as boulders to left have gone meaning it is likely to be drier more often.

Good news:
- Lots of new easier lines to go at dotted about the place.
- left of kids is a corridor of new rock opened up, makes a good warm up/eliminates wall.
- Best of all the purple haze bloc has finally been opened up, I have been dreaming of this since first finding the place. Now one of my favourite boulders on the coast! Topo with the main lines on can be found here... https://www.dropbox.com/s/ya15ch38nwupg2z/Topo.jpg (sorry dont know how to import images).

Green – Hurler SDS V8: start sitting on low shelf follow the rail to the ledge and a tricky rockover. Take a big bucket to empty the rock pool below.
White – Project: sitter into undercut…
Red – The AWOL Apprentice V9? Start matched on lowest rail follow holds in the seam. Amazing maybe the best V9 on the coast. A variation finishes up purple haze at a similar grade.
Purple – All along the Watchtower V8: Start up Purple haze traverse the lip using a rose move into and up The AWOL Apprentice.
Yellow – Purple Haze V6
Blue – V8: Traverse from Hurler into the start of Purple Haze, after the crux break out left along jugs. Climbs really well.

Looks good

granticus

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#220 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 29, 2014, 07:52:40 pm
Nice one Tom, good info. and problems on Purple haze block look awesome! 

Anyone want to do some babysitting so I can go and check it out?!

Huffy

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#221 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 29, 2014, 09:36:08 pm
Guess this is in the right place? Some new problems in Dorset...


EdGowSmith

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#222 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
March 29, 2014, 09:49:17 pm
Guess this is in the right place? Some new problems in Dorset...

Gotta love a bit of Zeds Dead.

granticus

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#223 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 15, 2014, 10:41:43 am
New problem at Saddle Tor courtesy of Mikey C.




granticus

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#224 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
April 15, 2014, 10:43:16 am
And a little film of me on Carnage at Hartland Quay.



 

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