[tomrainbow]

A shameless plug for my blog...

http://tomrainbow99.wordpress.com/2014/04/27/off-the-beaten-track-a-decade-of-bouldering-in-bovey-woods/

[EdGowSmith]

I was in the Woods today incidentally!
Nice read 

[tomrainbow]

Thanks...bet it was horrible today!

[EdGowSmith]

Haha yes not in amazing condition... 

[Steamboat Stello]

Nice blog post Tom. I must say that Bovey Woods was one of the places I was most excited about (and still am) when I moved down to Devon last year but sadly injury and lack of time have restricted me to the odd evening at Chudleigh and Bonehill.

Massive respect to you for all the effort you've put in and I'm keen to get down there next season when I've got more time. I might pay a visit this weekend to scope out some stuff, would be ace to meet up with anyone who knows the area a bit.     

[EdGowSmith]

I might pay a visit this weekend to scope out some stuff, would be ace to meet up with anyone who knows the area a bit.     

I will probably be going to the Woods either on Saturday or Sunday.
Don't know the area that well but can show you around some stuff.
I'll message you closer to the time to say when I'll be there.

[SA Chris]

Good write up. Wish I'd known more about it when I lived down that way

One thing that has surprised me since I started climbing in the woods is just how reluctant the majority of climbers are to put in a bit of effort and have an explore

I hear you on that one though!

[tomrainbow]

 

Nice blog post Tom. I must say that Bovey Woods was one of the places I was most excited about (and still am) when I moved down to Devon last year but sadly injury and lack of time have restricted me to the odd evening at Chudleigh and Bonehill.

Massive respect to you for all the effort you've put in and I'm keen to get down there next season when I've got more time. I might pay a visit this weekend to scope out some stuff, would be ace to meet up with anyone who knows the area a bit. 

Thanks for the kind words. I would be happy to show you around but am busy this weekend unfortunately. Hope you get something done this weekend.

[EdGowSmith]

Good day at Godrevy today.
Literally everything was wet apart from Crack Pot, the thing I wanted to try the most. Couldn't have been more lucky!
Not sure if it's had any other ascents since the hold breakage over the winter.
Originally given 7B+ and though it's definitely harder, I don't think it warrants 7C.
I don't have much experience of problems at 7B+/C though.
Here's a vid for beta:

[jstrongman]

Nice one Ed, think that is the first repeat since the breakage. Like your start ,will have to try that. I had a session on it last Thursday, with Andy and thought it felt tough for 7B+, think it is feels 7B+ if you are 7C strong and 7C if you are 7B+ strong. Either way it is a great power problem, well done.

[EdGowSmith]

Nice one Ed, think that is the first repeat since the breakage. Like your start ,will have to try that. I had a session on it last Thursday, with Andy and thought it felt tough for 7B+, think it is feels 7B+ if you are 7C strong and 7C if you are 7B+ strong. Either way it is a great power problem, well done.

Cheers.
Good luck trying it.

[Ronn1eb]

Yes, well done Ed.  I had repeated it a few weeks earlier, but I don't think the broken hold has made much difference.  Glad to see another opinion on the grade too.

[Steamboat Stello]

Anyone been to Duckpool recently? Am I right in thinking that quite a few problems have been buried/shifted by the winter storms? It was my first visit but I failed to find the after the gold rush block and there was a massive pile of what looked like freshly fallen blocks where I expected it might be. Varmint was still fine but the 6c just next to it has gone.

[granticus]

Not been since last year but wouldn't be surprised..  There has been a lot of movement all round the coast. 

[macca7]

More missing stuff to report I'm afraid!

Down at Higher Long Beak just North of Big Brother the right hand side of the wall has collapsed burying around 6 good quality micro routes / highballs.

This includes Tom's Spratt and the lovely corner line of Ickle Fissure. The excellent and scary slab stepping off the perched boulder is also sadly no more!

Real loss to the local area along with the routes on the mines a point stack which is unfortunately bow half the stack it used to be!

Cheers Macca

[duncan]

Real loss to the local area along with the routes on the mines a point stack which is unfortunately bow half the stack it used to be!

Now known as Mine's a Half.

Do Iain Peters or Mark Kemball and the guidebook team know about this?

[EdGowSmith]

Cool vid of some south-west problems.

[EdGowSmith]

Hamish Potokar cruising Supercede Sit-Start.

[Andy W]

Does anyone know a link for the Tintagel bouldering topo, the rock and run link seems to have gone blank?

[granticus]

Heh Andy.  There is a link on the previous page of this thread but it's not working!!

Try here http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/ scroll down the page, topo and information is all there for Purple Haze boulder.

[Andy W]

We got washed off the purple haze boulder, so spent some time in the blue ray cave. I did a line left of blue ray starting on a low pocket, pretty much as far left and low as you can get, then some minging crimps and side pull to get on to easier ground. Definitely separate line from blue ray, is this a problem do you know/

also blue ray starts on good holds? or does it start lower on poor holds for the 6C?

On another note the Purple haze boulder is looking brilliant!

[Andy W]

Lost black 5.10 team at tintagel, somewhere under the blue ray problem. I think I left it there last Sunday

[Duma]

Mikey Cleverdon on the excellent looking AWOL Apprentice

Post

hopefully not private

[EdGowSmith]

Mikey Cleverdon on the excellent looking AWOL Apprentice

'tis rather good.

[macca7]

Hi All

Can confirm the Duckpool massacre as described above. The pretty much everything has gone before you reach the wow slab. Jammed pebble has held out somehow but everything else is buried under a rather large landslide! You could still climb the last foot of Gold Rush if you dig out a bit! A real gutter!

Also as reported the problem to the right of Varmint is no longer and the beach level is really high on Varmint at the moment. Excellent problem thou!

Sorry to be the bearer of more bad news.

Cheers

Macca