[Duma]

Pasty not pastie. And yes they must be crimped on the side. And shortcrust. Preferably from the horse and jockey in Helston, though I appreciate that's not really handy for any bouldering.

[ben]

I love the fact the SW bouldering thread has deteriorated into a discussion about pasties

[wintermute]

Didn't think 'pastie' looked right.

Gutted that it was an invalid holiday tick, even bigger dissapointment than discovering king Arthur's castle has nothing to do with him and was built 500 years after he was supposed to have lived.

[r-man]

I love the fact the SW bouldering thread has deteriorated into a discussion about pasties

Deteriorated?   

[EdGowSmith]

This isn't about pasties, but I got back from a pretty successful trip to Lynmouth with two friends earlier this week, after managing to do quite a few of the higher-grade problems, including Womping, which I was really happy about. 

My friend Ellis also did Womping, and added a reverse, which he has named Wimping.

In terms of grades, I would love to say that Womping was my first 7C+, but in all honesty it didn't feel that hard, soft 7C at max with the current beach levels. Ellis said that Wimping felt harder, and gave it a grade of 7C/+.

All of us also did the sit start to Twister, though we weren't sure where it started. From the tiny monos felt too hard, so we started with one hand on a mono and one in the large sidepull. We all agreed on a grade of soft 7B+ for this start.

For Slopey Traverse Extension, Cake Vs. Pie, the Lynmouth Boulder Jam Ho Down Throw Down, Face Off, Cyclone, and Coriolis Effect, the given grades seemed to be about right.

One of the problems that annoyed me the most, and that despite me trying it on 4 different occasions, I still couldn't get, was Stinky Pinky. I am just under 6 ft tall and I'm generally pretty good at dynos, but this felt impossible, or at least harder than 7B!

Oh, and here is a video of me on Womping. I was too inflexible to get a heel on so just decided to campus it as quickly as I could 

[Oldmanmatt]

Well, he's not too bad at dynos...

[EdGowSmith]

Well, he's not too bad at dynos...

 

[andyd]

You might want to practice that mantling malarkey before you hit font...

[Oldmanmatt]

Right Ed. Kieron and I have been watching those Mantles.
Get in here and start pulling up on to the window ledge in the training room (footless) and we'll set some mantle problems....😜😄😄

[EdGowSmith]

You might want to practice that mantling malarkey before you hit font...

Yes I might! Being basically an indoor-bred climber my experience of mantles is rather limited! 

Right Ed. Kieron and I have been watching those Mantles.
Get in here and start pulling up on to the window ledge in the training room (footless) and we'll set some mantle problems....

 
Alright, maybe get some different angle window ledges to mantle onto?

[andyd]

I love the fact the SW bouldering thread has deteriorated into a discussion about pasties

http://images.lmgtfy.com/?q=pasties 

I made the similar mistake in Maple Canyon trying 'Pasties and a g-string'. I thought it was a Utah food fetish thing

[granticus]

My friend Ellis also did Womping, and added a reverse, which he has named Wimping.

In terms of grades, I would love to say that Womping was my first 7C+, but in all honesty it didn't feel that hard, soft 7C at max with the current beach levels. Ellis said that Wimping felt harder, and gave it a grade of 7C/+.

All of us also did the sit start to Twister, though we weren't sure where it started. From the tiny monos felt too hard, so we started with one hand on a mono and one in the large sidepull. We all agreed on a grade of soft 7B+ for this start.

For Slopey Traverse Extension, Cake Vs. Pie, the Lynmouth Boulder Jam Ho Down Throw Down, Face Off, Cyclone, and Coriolis Effect, the given grades seemed to be about right.

One of the problems that annoyed me the most, and that despite me trying it on 4 different occasions, I still couldn't get, was Stinky Pinky. I am just under 6 ft tall and I'm generally pretty good at dynos, but this felt impossible, or at least harder than 7B!

First off, great effort an impressive tick list for a weekend in Lyndaka.

You started Twister sit correctly; your grading is noted, can change dramatically if the footholds disappear though!

As for Stinky Pinky, it's not impossible!  It might be morpho though and this case an advantage to be shorter, so being nearly 6 ft and good at dynos might not necessarily help you

[EdGowSmith]

First off, great effort an impressive tick list for a weekend in Lyndaka.

Thanks, but Lyndaka? 

As for Stinky Pinky, it's not impossible!  It might be morpho though and this case an advantage to be shorter, so being nearly 6 ft and good at dynos might not necessarily help you

Yes that's true. Probably best not to give it a grade then.

[andyd]

You don't want grades to be given for moves that suit a longer or shorter reach?

[granticus]

First off, great effort an impressive tick list for a weekend in Lyndaka.

Thanks, but Lyndaka? 

As for Stinky Pinky, it's not impossible!  It might be morpho though and this case an advantage to be shorter, so being nearly 6 ft and good at dynos might not necessarily help you

Yes that's true. Probably best not to give it a grade then.

Definitely says ungradeable in the guide I did..     It's very difficult anyways.

Google Mundaka.

Did you folks get out to West as well?

[EdGowSmith]

You don't want grades to be given for moves that suit a longer or shorter reach?

Well I think for problems as morpho as this one it's hard to give it a definite grade, that doesn't mean people can't grade it themselves based on how hard it felt to them though.

Definitely says ungradeable in the guide I did..     It's very difficult anyways.

Google Mundaka.

Did you folks get out to West as well?

It gets 7B on UKClimbing though?

Ah I see now, exactly like Lynmouth!

Yeah we did. Did the highball aretes and I tried Anarchy Arete on the right but it felt hard and quite scary!

Ellis also did the slab on the right side of Giza, which is marked as a project in the guide but I'm assuming it's been done since?

[SA Chris]

Ah I see now, exactly a little bit like Lynmouth!

fixed

[granticus]

Ah I see now, exactly a little bit like Lynmouth!

fixed

  Not quite the same but it goes in the same direction, that's about where comparisons end.

[granticus]

Ellis also did the slab on the right side of Giza, which is marked as a project in the guide but I'm assuming it's been done since?

That depends on how far right, where he started from and which holds were used, whether the arete is avoided right to the top etc.  (You got any details it's probably a FA!)

I did a low traverse of the slab L-R, starting round the corner and finishing up the right arete, over the winter. (Flesh and Blood Gods).

Looking forward to seeing a video from your weekend if you got any footage?!   

It gets 7B on UKClimbing though?

  As most folk on here will concur; don't believe everything you read on UKC (grading is always a guess). 

As for Stinky Pinky.  Maybe when you get older/greyer like me, you'll come to accept that you can't climb everything within your grade and that some problems just don't suit you.  I'm 40 next year I have climbed up to font 7c+ (ish) in my time and I have a list as long as my arm of sub 6c problems that I haven't been able to do (yet!). 

I got shut down by a 6b called Freddie's Nightmare at Mynydd Dinas just last week having done a 7c the week before, I'm not gonna call for an upgrade though. (I do need to take some advice off the Wideboys though!)

[kingholmesy]

I love the fact the SW bouldering thread has deteriorated into a discussion about pasties

http://images.lmgtfy.com/?q=pasties 

I'm not sure which of the two varieties I'm salivating over more.

[EdGowSmith]

Ellis also did the slab on the right side of Giza, which is marked as a project in the guide but I'm assuming it's been done since?

That depends on how far right, where he started from and which holds were used, whether the arete is avoided right to the top etc.  (You got any details it's probably a FA!)

I wasn't present when he actually climbed it so unsure at the moment. I'll get back to you when I find out though.

Looking forward to seeing a video from your weekend if you got any footage?!   

Unfortunately Womping was just about the only thing I myself managed to get footage of.
My friend managed to film a lot more though and a video may thus be on its way shortly...

As for Stinky Pinky.  Maybe when you get older/greyer like me, you'll come to accept that you can't climb everything within your grade and that some problems just don't suit you.  I'm 40 next year I have climbed up to font 7c+ (ish) in my time and I have a list as long as my arm of sub 6c problems that I haven't been able to do (yet!). 

I got shut down by a 6b called Freddie's Nightmare at Mynydd Dinas just last week having done a 7c the week before, I'm not gonna call for an upgrade though. (I do need to take some advice off the Wideboys though!)

I understand totally what you're saying, especially in light of the fact that I still haven't been able to do Face Off.

The main difference in your given scenario and my own, however, is that the problem you were unable to do doesn't seem to fit your style, whereas the problem I was unable to do should fit my style rather well.

[granticus]

The main difference in your given scenario and my own, however, is that the problem you were unable to do doesn't seem to fit your style, whereas the problem I was unable to do should fit my style.

  Not sure where this is going Ed, either you're implying the dyno hasn't been done or that you would like it to be given a grade to reflect the fact that you're struggling with it?

[cooknell]

Hi there SW boulders.

I'm not a frequent climber any more, but have just returned from Font, where I had a great time bouldering with my kids (aged 10 and 11).  I'd love to keep this going with them.

Please can you recommend SW crags, that will have a good number of lower grade problems.  Is there a suitable guide book that covers the area?

Thanks.

[granticus]

  Hello Cooknell!

www.javu.co.uk is the fountain of knowledge for most things on the SW peninsular, loads of guides and such can be found there.

Your best bet is probably gonna be Bonehill on Dartmoor, it might not quite live up to the standard you've been enjoying in Bleau but it's a lovely spot and very accessible.   

[ben]

Please can you recommend SW crags, that will have a good number of lower grade problems.  Is there a suitable guide book that covers the area?

Whereabouts are you based ?
Grimers 'boulder britain' guide gives details on all the main spots with plenty of info to get you there and point you at the main blocs