UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: GCW on January 01, 2011, 07:22:41 am
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After the massive success of 2010, most of my list rolls over. Although I've taken a couple out that just felt impossible and added some stuff nearer by.
1. Buckstone Dyno
2. Screaming Slave Woodwell
3. Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS
4. West Side Story
5. Jerry's Arete (Bridestones)
6. Sloping Beauty (Earl)
7. Underhand (Almscliff) May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot.
8. Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow)
9. Red Wall Project Shhh, esoteric venue.
10. Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)
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Get down to 12 stone.
Get fit and strong.
The rest will just happen, or not.
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Get down to 12 stone.
Get fit and strong.
The rest will just happen, or not.
Ditto :)
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Here goes:
8b. Having done a few more 8a+'s, 8b has to be next.
Boulder 7b+ - as for last year, just need to get on something and put the effort in.
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7C
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Boulder peak 7a.
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1. Fix my rotator cuff - 1 week rest + 2 weeks of theraband so far
2. Climb at Si's birthday trip to Northumberland without pain! - Coming up Feb 11th-13th
2. A short 8A+ bloc - Probably Rotherham or Switzerland!
3. An 8a sport route - Will need to be something under 15 metres
4. Get to Switzerland in the van - Thinking April or August
5. Get to Hueco in Nov/Dec - Need to save some $
6. Hang the beastmaker 45's for more than 3 seconds - Unlikely!
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After the massive success of 2010, most of my list rolls over.
Feels like much the same for me, but I've slimmed it down so my emotional welll-being for the year rests on an even smaller choice of routes...
1. Empire of the Sun (Ansteys), to be honest any 7b will be good but this one has too much time and effort invested not to go down eventually.
2. The Lynch (Ansteys), not at all my style of climbing but when I'm in top form now I can just do each individual move. If I get this it will be a reall YYFY.
3. Break on Through & Fay at Sharpnose. Both a step up above what I achieved this year. E4 onsight is something of a psychological barrier so either of these will be great.
4. Wraith (Sharpnose). 2nded it in the autumn so I know how far outside my comfort zone I need to get but it just might go...
& the big one, given I've pulled/torn pulleys each of the last two years, is to stay uninjured for the year. Got to realise when to back off before something goes pop....
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Ooh er. I feel shy among all these 7s & 8s with my humble little middle aged punter goals. But anyway:
6b os at Arco at Easter
6c os: actually maybe not so humble, given that my best os on real rock last year was 6a, and felt hard
One or more good, big Alpine rock routes in the summer
... and/or ...
One or more classic E2s on a Welsh Trad Tour in the summer
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1. 7b - (probably nerve ending kilnsey)
2. 7A
3.7B
4. onsight 7a
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Maintain 3-days a week at the wall, campus regularly and use the 45 more. Bag the long time problem ive still not done after 2 years!
Tetris (on Sunday)
The Fink s/s
Giza (Before its downgraded!)
Simple Simon
Stall s/s
Head out East more often
A long sport climbing trip over easter to set me up for a decent season in the UK!
Finishing off 'Sturgeon in the cuboard' would be a good start
Here's to a year of fine weather and good conditions... Happy Crushing :thumbsup:
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Sport:
Reach a total of 25 8a onsights (so 15 more)
8a+ flash
8a+ onsight
3 or more 8a+ onsights
5 or more 8a+ onsights + flashes (there's a theme here...)
Rollito Sharma
Mecca
3 or more 8b+
8c
Bouldering:
8A that's actually a boulder (i.e. not a PE traverse)
8A abroad
Out of Stamina
Staminahumps
The Hulk + In Bulk + Sean's
Go to the Lakes, Northumberland, Western grit and Yorkshire grit
Trad:
Go trad climbing again. Preferably in Pembroke.
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- Old Friends, stanage
- Resurrection, Dinas Chromlech
- Yellow Wall, Gower
- Kitten Claws and Mean Feat, carreg-y-barcud
- Anything in the E3/4/5 bracket at lower sharpnose
- Spend as much time as possible at Gogarth
- A few 7s in font
- Avoid injury before big summer climbing trip
Generally want to try and consolidate at E3/4 and tick the odd boulder problem along the way.
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Gogarth: The Moon (& katana & breaking the barrier at holyhead mtn)
Cromlech: Resurrection
Llanymynech: the Screaming Skull
LPT: Night glue
Peak lime: numerous 7b / 7b+
High Tor: Flaky wall
Peak grit: just do lots
Font trip
Sport climbing trip
Get to pembroke, kilnsey, and malham
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There are 13 routes and 13 boulders that I have been on and have yet to be ticked. Coincidence? It's an unlucky number....
BLOC:
Climb 7C this winter/spring
Brad Pit
Go to Font
7C+ next autumn/winter (The Wish?)
sort out as much unfinished business as possible
SPORT
Get route fit again:
7b+ onsight
7c flash or onsight
multiple 8a
maybe try for 8a+ (might as well be ambitious!)
sort out as much unfinished business as possible
Climb something at Raven Tor!
Go to Malham
Go to Buoux
TRAD
Do some easy fun multipitch. Gogarth?
Don't die.
TRAINING
Get strong on a board again ASAP, getting burned off sucks >:(
147 on small rungs
158 (massively ambitious!)
front lever pull up (also ambitious)
mono one armer 8) so I can be like Omar15
DON'T GET INJURED
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boulder 6c+/7a everytime i go out- do able....ish by Autumn
onsight e2 regularly- very do able by spring/summer time
onsight a few e3's - do able, especially in wales
onsight a e4- do able
headpoint a e5/e6-hopefully do able by autumn time.
climb alot more sport routes in summer!!! - easily do able.
climb french 7a- maybe, havent done much sport so dont know what a french 7a is like
as soon as it gets light enough get back out on the grit in the evenings and away from the horrible indoor wall- my pleasure to do this one
big trip up to cloggy- easy to do.
scotland trip for winter and summer climbing- easy enough to do.
TRAINING
stick to your plan- very do able
concentrate on slopers and your core- do able
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1 Font 8b
2 Few more 8b+'s, maybe an 8c on north buttress
3 Flash/ground up E7.
4 Devils Apendix
5 Lord of the flies
6 Breach of the peace
7 Swis trip
8 Get some more extreme rock ticks done
9 Get to cloggy for first time
10 Get to the lakes tradding more
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climb a 7a in font
do a 7a+ in font
do the reds at sabot that I havent done
zippys trav at planation
** top on face of business
do a sport route, probably rubicon roof
ride snowdon
ride in morzine
buy / lease a hill.... create a company & build a freeride area for MTB near sheffield
commute to work more on the road bike
mentally survive the NHS for another year
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climb french 7a- maybe, havent done much sport so dont know what a french 7a is like
If you're looking to onsight E4 and headpoint E5 you should find french 7a very do-able, you'll probably surprise yourself and redpoint your first in a session or two.
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general:
- train properly and get super strong
- stay injury free
- keep this fucking faith despite everything
specific:
- Font 8b
- sport 8c
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Try not to spend most of the year injured.
Try to be able to climb more than once a week without my shoulders disintegrating.
Climb 6A in the forest.
Do Cristalline at Rocher Fin a supposed 4+, which I keep falling off.
Get back to the U.K and do some classic grit stuff, Crescent arete etc.
Who knows maybe buy a rope and do something with that.
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by Spring :
7C
8a
West Side Story (by next week dammit)
Spring Voyage
take training seriously:
4/5 indoor sessions each week + outdoor at least once,
get good sleep,
eat well,
less booze.
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make an over-ambitious, completely unrealistic tick-list that has no chance of being completed
complete bloc pyramid with a few 7Bs, a 7B+, couple of 7Cs (at least 1 this season hopefully) & Brad Pit - still my ultimate problem although Western Eyes looks the dogs wotsits at the grade too.
Sport 8a - several candidates depending on what dries where
OS a few longish 7a+s, a strange number maybe but I figure it's what would be necessary for trad ambitions:
E4, Flakey Wall and Resurrection being the ultimate goals
Climb on a proper big (by UK standards) cliff, multi-pitch away up in the mountains.
Retain the UKB FFL title
Use my camera more (stills and video) + buy some decent video editing software and make some half decent clips rather than the crap I've produced to date.
There are specific routes/problems within each discipline but I won't bore you with yet more lists, suffice to say I am inspired by lines/routes/moves rather than simply numbers.
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A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
Go to St Bees
Train sensibly without over doing it
Maybe get in some grit
Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
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climb without pain
do another 8a
get more beauty sleep
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al, adam, nai, anyone - i'd recommend carreg hylldrem > http://www.groundupclimbing.com/upload/members/CarregHylldremNWR2ndedition.pdf (http://www.groundupclimbing.com/upload/members/CarregHylldremNWR2ndedition.pdf)
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aha thats odd, i went there today! does anyone know the grade of the center line with the sharp sidepull from a sit start? it felt hard, like v5 just looking for some confermation.
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think it's v4, sawwy..
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Oh I nearly forgot:
learn to F**king drive!
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Targets
Do a V8 of any description
Do a V8 on peak grit
Climb a grit arete that's actually hard (basically learn to climb grit aretes)
Climbs
High Speed Imp Act
Cave Righthand (Robin Hood's Stride)
Tierdrop
Not To Be Taken Away
Clever Beaver
Training
The beastmaker 45s. A lot.
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Do the house up (finally).
The Longridge Traverse.
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Pass driving test
Save money for USA trip
Trad E2
Boulder 7a
Sport 7a
Stay injury-free!
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I'll be disappointed if I don't do these
Sport - Free and Easy, Too Old to Be Bold, Obscene Toilet, Biological Need, The Ashes
Bouldering - Push to Prolapse, Demon Wall Roof, Acme Wall
Trad - Any E5; one long weekend to Scotland, Pembroke or Dorset; one or two Extreme Rock ticks
Should be possible with a lot of effort
Never (rarely) turn down an opportunity to go climbing
Sport - Any 8a
Bouldering - Any Font 7b; One of Handy Andy's, Fertile Delta, Big Marine, Sloping Beauty, Desert Island Arete start
Trad - Two of Supersonic, Left Wall (Brimham), Lime Hill, Roaring Silence, Central Sadness, Waves of Inspiration; 4 Extreme Rock ticks
Other - Winter Hill fell race; an Alps or sub alpine trip; go deepwater soloing (mainly Rainbow Bridge)
Let's reach for the stars
Sport - one of the Yorkshire triple crown
Trad - Headpoint a grit E7; the Cumbrian or The Cow
Alps - one of N face Badile, Saltbijchen West Ridge, Becco di Valsoreia, something on the Grand Cap
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climb a 7a in font
do a 7a+ in font
do the reds at sabot that I havent done
zippys trav at planation
** top on face of business
do a sport route, probably rubicon roof
ride snowdon
ride in morzine
buy / lease a hill.... create a company & build a freeride area for MTB near sheffield
commute to work more on the road bike
mentally survive the NHS for another year
addition.. ride the two new lines off nemba tracks at wharncliffe.... fast, big and loose... in the summer that is. At present they are desperate and I've just spent the morning slippin on my arse down a big hill very very scared.
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Go to font at least twice
Go on a good climbing holiday somewhere new
Actually climb something in wales rather than just the beacon
Lose some chub
Get fingers stronger
Go sea level traversing
Get better at mtb
"" ................kayaking
"".................fell running
"".................writing poetry
Get a road bike
Finish my PGCE
Get a job
Find love
Not much to ask right?
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Be a good dad :-)
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Sport Chuffin: 8a+ (overnight sensation, GBH, supercool), climb 8a in another country ( so far got UK, france, spain, greece, thailand - although not 100% sure aout france), go to ceuse fit.
Trad Chuffin: enjoy some classic E6s. don't get on anything too loose. E7 would be nice.
Bouldering: : do another font 7c. do more bouldering generally.
Real climbing: : 1-4-7.
Real Life: qualify as a physio. get a job.
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Not really many specific aims but it would be really nice to go up a sport grade as i haven't done this for six years. Would love to do something hard bouldering wise, maybe Pilgrim in Parisellas. Lots of hard work needed for these goals. Would also like to get back into onsighting and maybe do an onsighting trip somewhere soft ;)
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Finally get outdoors and boulder on real rock.
I have been climbing indoors for just under two years but I haven't taken it outdoors yet.
I also wanted to finally post something on this forum after lurking around for months, I guess this post resolves that.
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think it's v4, sawwy..
well a few KEY holds were wet.......... sooooo its a v5 eliminate :thumbsup:
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Hmm, been having quite a long think about this. I didnt really set any aims for 2010, but managed to consolidate on 7a and 7a+ and pinch my first 7b.. I seem to have quite a few projects - so in no particular order...
Yorkshire
Underhand - possibly the extension if the first part goes early in the year.
A few 7a/7a+'s to mop up: Steves wall, Patta's arete, the traverse next to it.
Stu's roof LH - nearly got the stand done, think the first part may be a go-er
Possibly have a play on the Keel if I'm a good boy...
Start doing some more stuff at Caley! Why I dont go there so often I dont know...
Peak
Lots of unfinished nearly business in the Peak...
At plantation, Green Traverse (without heels or mega dabs..), Deliverance (a long saga..), Deleverance traverse.. NTBTA
At Curbar, Guerilla Warfare/Early doors (was playing on these today.. surely a matter of time....?), Maybe a speculative look at Great White..
Beach Ball. So close grr...
West Side Story. Never tried it, but suspect it may suit my strengths (lank and no campusing..) may be one to work...
A 7 at Rubicon. (I suspect this is the hardest for me of anything I've suggested above!)
Weedkiller traverse at the Tor (I think its called that..)
Wales
Go to the cave again, and see whether a years worth of training has given me any more ability to get off the ground on anything with a 7 in it!
Cae Du. Have a proper trip there - camp by the beach and loaf around the boulders when the pollen is bad in the Summer!
Other bits and bobs..
A good few things at Harmers I was getting close to that I need to nail.. another one for the Summer.
The flakey face thing at Wimberry
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Become a Master of Science
Get a career rolling
7C+
Do more classic Yorkshire 7s
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- RP The Oak
Onsight a 7c
RP one of the classic long 8a+’s in Yorkshire in under 10 days hopefully the Groove
Bag 10,000 8a nu points
Settle some old scores (many to choose from: i.e. Crucifixion, Rumble in the Jungle, Baboo, Bad Bad Boy)
DWS Afroman at Diablo in Summer – 2 week family holiday already booked. Had a brief look at the place a couple of years ago – looks terrifying..
Support the boys in doing well at the indoor comps. Teach them to place gear and have a trad trip to Wales with them in the Summer. Generally to be a reasonable dad and husband.
Get and train a new collie pup to keep Pip Company
Various financial/debt reduction/business type goals
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- RP The Oak
Onsight a 7c
RP one of the classic long 8a+’s in Yorkshire in under 10 days hopefully the Groove
Bag 10,000 8a nu points
Settle some old scores (many to choose from: i.e. Crucifixion, Rumble in the Jungle, Baboo, Bad Bad Boy)
DWS Afroman at Diablo in Summer – 2 week family holiday already booked. Had a brief look at the place a couple of years ago – looks terrifying..
Support the boys in doing well at the indoor comps. Teach them to place gear and have a trad trip to Wales with them in the Summer. Generally to be a reasonable dad and husband.
Get and train a new collie pup to keep Pip Company
Various financial/debt reduction/business type goals - learn how to list
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Trad
Onsight E3 at the Head
Bouldering
7b
Sport
Try not to do it. But if I have to do it, then onsight more 7a's or harder.
Other
Get a job. Ideally in Vancouver and ideally starting late spring. But anything'll do.
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Aims for 2011 aka the Digging A Hole Motivation Programme.
Trad
The Whaler, Stackpole
A bunch of classic sea-cliff E3s
America, Carn Gowla (the proper way)
Wadi Rum trip
Comici - Cima Grande (or Rabada-Navarro - Naranjo de Bulnes)
E5 (by June, onsight of course)
Sport
7a onsight, ideally Fiesta de los Biceps
Try some proper sport-climbing (7b redpoint).
Bouldering
V5 / 6C on grit
Other
Manage aches and pains to allow at least 9 months climbing
Become taller and better-looking
Achieve world peace
Be a gooDAD, appease disapproving partner, stay in work (whilst all around get fired) and survive enough 2.5 hour drives to proper climbing to have a shot at the above
N face Badile, Saltbijchen West Ridge, Becco di Valsoreia, something on the Grand Cap
Give me a shout it you need a partner for the Salbitschijen, or anything similar with non-glacial approaches.
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Get and train a new collie pup that the catwalk at Malham can be a dangerous place. ;)
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Train more
Climb more
Regualrly boulder at 6c or maybe even higher (may as well keep things realistic!)
Keep my job
get in some ace overtime
buy new house
build woody in new garage
turn into a sun bronzed adonis rocking the world's best six pack
be able to grow a full beard
complete the great north run
spend loads of time with my mrs and kids
actually celebrate our anniversary for once...
I think that's the basics covered!
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DON'T GET INJURED
:agree:
Of all my aims this is the big one. I spent a lot of 2010 with a variety of injuries.
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What I want from 2011 is:
Trad
- Continue 2010s progression with E2s, get as comfortable on them as I am now on E1
- Do some more E3s (including maybe Yellow Edge, Crow, Ladder of Desire and a few other local testpieces)
- Get another good few days at Gogarth - Strand, True moments/Freebird, maybe Moon and Wendigo too
- Maybe an E4, be happy with ground-up or better
- I've the odd desire to do some headpointing, but we'll see
Sport
- Good trip to Verdon at Easter, onsight a bunch of 6c classics, maybe 6c+
- Redpoint 7c, hopefully with enough routes underneath it that it can be called a pyramid rather than its current shape which could best be described as a very pointed needle :)
- 7a flash/onsight if its going well
Winter and bouldering goals are lower priority, but if a good winter is had I'd like to do a V, and maybe some classic Peak V4/5 problems would be ace.
Andy
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Must remember to...
1) Wank on about myself on the internet more;
2) Write a navel-gazing blog;
3) Update my Facebook status at least every 15 minutes;
4) Disappear up my own arse (perhaps I've accomplished this one already...)
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Oh, should have mentioned get an 8 outside The Dales.
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In order of importance:
1. Stay injury free and climb all year.
2. Onsight as many classic E3 & E4s as possible, especially in Wales. Would be particularly pleased with any of Resurrection, The Axe, stuff on Colossus wall, various stuff on Gogarth, Flaky Wall (yes, I know it's not in Wales) etc, etc.
3. Onsight E5.
4. Climb at least one 7b and one 7B.
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Have a laugh, enjoy climbing and get strong/fit/better.
Get to top of 7b's in good style.
Don't get injured... Again.
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I've noticed the 'not getting injured' aim is quite popular next year!
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I've noticed the 'not getting injured' aim is quite popular next year!
Well it would make a nice change from 2010. ;)
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Post on here a bit more!
Bouldering: Be able to do 7a
Go to font for the first time
Get outdoors a lot more.
Have fun and do more dyno's
Do Deliverance and Captain Hook.
Sport: Lead a 7A
Actually get outside to do it for the first time.
Trad: Give it a go and not fall off.
Get fitter and stronger without blowing my knee out again and try and do as much traveling and climbing as i can.
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Training
Finish mini-PE phase and get back onto pure power! Party tricks including 1-4-7, one arm pull ups and front levers.
Maintain fitness and route head throughout prime bouldering season - will mean weekly leading sessions hopefully outside but if necessary at turdburghs.
Bouldering
Regular trips to Sheffield and Leeds capitalising on availability of floor space to have a decent winter/spring on the grit. Finish my unfinished business including T-crack.
Taper sensibly before 2or 3 week font trip planned for Easter. Hope for decent conditions and flesh out my pyramid hoping to peak at 7C (maybe L’Ange Naif)
Get to the cave and try Rock Atrocity.
Get to the pass and try Jerry’s Roof.
Routes (sport)
Get back to Anstey’s ASAP and put the Cider Soak to bed.
More sport after Font. Put some meat on the bones of what currently looks a very thin pyramid.
Finally get a 7a on sight!
Routes (trad)
Try some trad in the UK ASAP.
Life
Move to Australia!! Either arrange a 12 month sabbatical with 6-9 months climbing and a secondment or hand in my notice and just go
I’d like to get my shit sorted within the next 6 months as my brother and his gf will be in Aus for 12 months from next week and it’d be sweet to spend a few months climbing in the bluies with them before they come back to the UK.
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Boulder
Five 7b's
Any 7c
Jerry's roof from the tourist tick
At least try Rock Atrocity
Route
Sport 7b
Onsight 7a
Trad
Gotta get plenty more multi pitch done for MIA training
Onsight an E4
Do more on Gogarth and get to Pembroke
General
Keep injury free
Do more swimming
Get more flexible
Oh ye and drink more red wine :alky:
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DON'T GET INJURED
:agree:
Of all my aims this is the big one. I spent a lot all of 2010 with a variety of injuries.
:agree: in fact I have 2 right now.
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DON'T GET INJURED
:agree:
Of all my aims this is the big one. I spent a lot all of 2010 with a variety of injuries.
:agree:
I've just had a month off to settle my injuries. It was awful - I woke up one morning and nothing hurt, I thought I'd died.
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My big focus this year is going to be my massive weak link - finger strength. Am determined to do it properly, i.e. MTFU and do a decent, structured session of hangs and stuff once a week.
Assuming I can keep uninjured I'm hoping this will lead to scrubbing off a few of...
Trad
A few outstanding Peak ticks - definitely Long John's at Froggatt
Sport
Whatever I can be bothered to try - probably nowt
Bouldering
More Cliff classix - Patta's, DWR (please!), Si's Arete
Get on more stuff at Caley Roadside this year
Peak CV omissions - Breakfast, Deliverance, Satin, Crescent Arete slabs to name a few
Tick more 7a problems on Font trip this year
Font 7b anywhere
Other
Take more photos when out and about
Sort out my laptop so that I can edit video and make some non-quality bouldering videos
Run sub-45 min 10k in a proper race
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3. Break on Through & Fay at Sharpnose. Both a step up above what I achieved this year. E4 onsight is something of a psychological barrier so either of these will be great.
Although neither of those is E4...;)
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Boulder at east once every other week (difficult with work and other commitments)
Get back to what I could do
Do more
Run more
Not necessarily benchmarks, but I'll know.
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Not to have any more children. I had my third, Alfie Fox on the 30th December. Oh, I may give up smoking as well, but maybe not.
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Climbing:
Not To Be Taken Away + others at the same grade.
7a in Font at Easter
7b by end of year (ridiculously ambitious)
Proper (fingerboardy) training once a week
Life:
Get decent MA; apply for PHD or find a career.
Learn to drive
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I've given up making specific goals as a I always seem to fail on them miserably and end up rolling the list over every year.
This time my aims are a little more achievable-
I just go my first DSLR (A Canon Eos 1000D) so I want to start taking lots of pretty pictures.
I need to re-find my psyche which diasappeared long ago with cool winter air
I'll join the masses with the uninjured thing and lets see if I can make it two years without another bout of surgery.
Tick something half decent. Who knows what or where.
Easy......
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send incredible bulk first attempt...
id like too do my first v8 by the end of the year if not atleast a v7
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1. Keep in touch with friends and partners better and organise myself more proactively.
2. Get to somewhere interesting over Easter (Pedriza? Alscace?), and over summer (Scandinavia? South Africa? Hatun Machay?).
3. Week long trip to Lewis, several days sea-cliffing in Skye, long weekend in Caithness, long weekend in Mull over winter/spring.
4. Get to Merionydd & Lleyn when weather is bolleaux in Scotland.
5. Keep exploring cool places in Scotland.
6. Explore more bouldering over winter: Torridon, Reiff, Skye, Mull, Inverness, Aberdeen, Trossachs, Northumberland, Carrock Fell, Gouther, St Bees.
7. Climb a few E5s.
8. Climb a few F7a+s.
9. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall.
10. Lose 1 stone via the above.
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DON'T GET INJURED
:agree:
Of all my aims this is the big one. I spent a lot of 2010 with a variety of injuries.
I was in the same situation last year. Avoiding injuries is the most important thing for me this year in terms of climbing.
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I've abandoned my goal of 8a bloc before I was 33 (I would of had to of done some climbing and training) and all I want this year is to move house without too much bother.
Climbing a load of 7c and the odd 7c+ would be great tho.
Might see if I can do a french 8a in the summer
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1. Get a nice fat double page spread photograph and text in the only men's style magazine I would be seen dead with. (Tick...)
2. Become a father
3. Win Masterchef (assuming small child fits around schedule)
4. Gold standard for La Marmotte
5. Finish redecorating my bloody house.
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I have missed your regular postings this last 6 months Yoss. Can you make a little more time for us this year?
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I've noticed the 'not getting injured' aim is quite popular next year!
Already failed this one.
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I have missed your regular postings this last 6 months Yoss. Can you make a little more time for us this year?
That is very kind of you to say so....
2010 was bloody hard work, and very busy. Plus I sometimes look at my rack and pads in the garage gathering dust and feel a bit of a fraud...
But I will do my best!
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3. Break on Through & Fay at Sharpnose. Both a step up above what I achieved this year. E4 onsight is something of a psychological barrier so either of these will be great.
Although neither of those is E4...;)
In that case I'll amend it to "knock out Fay & Break on Through early in the season and go on to Pembroke and onsight some soft-touch E4s..." ;D
Also MTFU and go do a proper route on Sanctuary Wall.
& in the realm of ego-boosting party tricks that are at odds with my don't get injured goal, manage a one-arm press-up in good form with my left arm (got a long way to go with that one...).
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Hah, neither of those is E4, but in opposite directions.....Fay would make a good first E5, it makes a route like Resurrection seem like the easy solid slab it is...
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Hah, neither of those is E4, but in opposite directions.....Fay would make a good first E5, it makes a route like Resurrection seem like the easy solid slab it is...
If you have sport climbing fitness those Sharpnose routes are so straightforward (not to mention well protected) that it feels like cheating. Same goes for a lot of Pembroke and Swanage.
Stu described it as trad climbing for sport climbers. I was thinking of starting a thread on classic routes that fit that mould. Perhaps you should so you know what routes to avoid ;)
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Sport
Tufa King Hard - asap as i am well cheesed off i didn't get it last year without grabbing the chains
7a outdoors - again asap
Puddle jumper
Rose Coronary
Consenting adults
Hartley Hare
Free and even easier
Yosemite wall
La Mangoustine Scatouflange
Bleep and Booster
Toxic rock
Bee Sting
Swarm
Wargames
Dreaming of Red Rocks
Elysium
Something stupid
7c pyramid with LTG of Comedy @ Kilnsey by end of season. Never been yet so there will be some routes to do there as well in 7a-7b+ grades.
Move to El Chorro and climb Lourdes in 2011
Boulder
7A outside by end of Feb
Picnic sarcastic by end of Mar ( not SS )
7B - not decided yet by end of str training phase ( end of April )
Feels good to write a tick list down. All i've got to do now is tick them.
I will also join power club as of next week.
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SPORT:
5 7a+s
Prophets of Rage 7b
Troll Team Special 7b
Empire of the Sun 7b
7b+ by the end of the year
BOULDERING:
Get out more, get on a Font 7A and do it.
Trackside
Gorilla Warfare
TRAD:
8 HVSs
4 E1s
2 E2s
1 E3
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Hah, neither of those is E4, but in opposite directions.....
Ah-ha, thanks for making that clear . Lots of people seem to think everything there is overgraded so I figured that was what you meant. Though my arms only seem to last for 50ft of climbing (must go to places higher than Torbryan more often) so the last 20feet are always a struggle whether I'm on the Smile or Crooked Mile...
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Stu described it as trad climbing for sport climbers. I was thinking of starting a thread on classic routes that fit that mould. Perhaps you should so you know what routes to avoid ;)
You should (assuming you haven't already and I've missed it). Be good to know the kinds of routes I should be getting on, compare them with the ones I actually do :)
Andy
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Due to the challenges of life with three children aged 2 and under, I'm only allowing myself one proper aim this year
http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2010/12/brewing-next-years-psyche.html (http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2010/12/brewing-next-years-psyche.html)
Very psyched for this big, actual quality, line
Currently aching from the start of the training treadmill
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You are not a well person.
My main aim for the year is to do enough climbing to develop an injury.
Given how dismally I have failed to achieve the humble goals I usually set I may as well set some ridiculously ambitious ones
Onsight Northern Exposure
Solo Echo Wall
Careless Torque ground up (and videoed)
Climb The Needle in Winter
Ski all the gullies grade II or easier on the Ben
Spend a month at a Cat skiing lodge
Surf Jaws and Mavericks
Cure Cancer
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Not going to fix the world's economy and get rid of AIDS? Pfft, you're aiming low.
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Get a dirty bird.
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Get a dirty bird.
Swearing Parrot Total Nutter Sparky (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRhvUJIwbV0#)
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1. Sub 4 minute mile.
2. 2hr 30 marathon.
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1. Touch rock - especially the luck based scrittle sort.
2. 2.3day drinking marathon.
;)
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Not going to fix the world's economy and get rid of AIDS? Pfft, you're aiming low.
Nah. Fuck em.
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Not going to fix the world's economy and get rid of AIDS? Pfft, you're aiming low.
Nah. Fuck em.
Tsk, we came up with the cure a couple of years ago but are waiting for the market to grow before releasing it.. clever eh!...
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If you have acure already, then I won't bother. Save me two or three days of work.
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It only took me 20 mins and the back of an envelope
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I don't want to hear about that.
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Get in to the groove and maintain a solid training program down at the wall.
Lose some weight - get down to 14st.
Boulder 7a.
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General
1. Eat less cake.
2. Stop spilling coffee on my (and anyone else's) bouldering mat.
3. Stop having chalk explosions when i fall off.
4. Finish PhD.
5. Take summer off to travel around europe climbing and sightseeing.
Specific
1. Boulder a few 7bs.
2. Do more trad. Need to get head in gear.
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1. Finish final semester of architecture and produce a final project to be supremely proud of.
2. Get job in practice
3. Pay off some debt
4. Immerse myself wholeheartedly in climbing when I graduate during spare time
5. Specifics - my boulder project ticked.
- resume route climbing and get better at it
6. Decide if I'm moving to Ticino to practice and really make this happen if it's going to.
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Possibly being a bit ambitious here, but i'm going well at the moment so hey ho.
1- Redpoint an 8a when i'm in spain
2- Get some multipitch trad mileage under my belt. (would love to do the brandler-hasse!)
3- Bouldering- get my long LONG term project done.
-Hopefully do a carefully selected 8a (an easy one :) )
Get back on track with my running, get previous fitness back.
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This is going to be the year.
General aim - get out a lot, avon in the evenings and pembroke weekends. do some sport in cheddar. do more gritstone.
Specific aims:
1. Trad. Get steady on E3, onsight a short bouldery E5 (strapadictomy?). When I get to the crag don't fanny around on 'warm-ups', instead do a bit of bouldering then get on what I want to do.
2. Sport. Not all that bothered. Prob a week in spain or france end of march. Do a redpoint rather than just trying to flash everything. Hopefully tick a 7c by end of year. A little ambitious perhaps.
3. Bouldering. Keep power topped up in between route climbing. Peak in autumn. Try to go somewhere other than font (might not have the self control for this aim). Perhaps magic wood/ticino? Either way, climb 7B. Have a proper go at something hard rather than thinking I can't do it because I didn't flash it.
4. Route/boulder ticklist for 2011...
Mau mau, strapadictomy, traveller in time, smear test, ascent of man, left wall, vector, pull my daisy, german schoolgirl, track of the cat
Rubis sur l'ongle, noir desir, el poussif, hyper plomb, deliverance, C3PO, sulky little boys, jerry's traverse
If all those go down I'll be a happy man.
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Some explanation
(http://benssimpleblog.wordpress.com/2011/01/08/climbing-goals/)
Climbing:
The pyramid concept works well for me and based on last years mediocre performance I reckon that the following are both stretching and achievable.
Redpoint: 7c Pyramid (1x7c, 2x7b+, 4x7b, 6x7a+, 7x7a, 12-156c+) Peak mainly, Tor, Cheedale and the Matlock crags.
Onsight: 7b Pyramid (1x7b, 3x7a+, 5x7a or E5, 8x6c/6c+ or E4/E5, 10x6b+ or E3) Spain + Wales for sport then High Tor, Chee Tor, Wales (Gogarth and Mountains) and Grit for Trad.
Boulder: 7B+ Pyramid (1x7B+, 2x7B, 4x7A+, 6x7A, 9x6C+, 12x6C) (Grit and Lime with a definate trip to the County in order this year)
Climbing training: Full set of encore/repeaters on the 45 degree slopers on my board + 25 continuous pullups on the large slots.
V Special goal: Long demanding rock route in the Alps, Dolomites or similar in July/August.
Strength, Power and Endurance Goals:
2.5 x Bodyweight Deadlift, 1.5 x Bodyweight Front Squat, 1 x Bodyweight Overhead Squat, 1.25 x Bodyweight Clean, 1 x Bodyweight Clean and Jerk, 1 x Bodyweight Benchpress, <7min 2k C2 Row; <19:30min 5k C2 row; <60min 15k C2 row
Get lots of sleep, drink less, eat well, read some good books, stay focussed.
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1 x Bodyweight Clean and Jerk
Any Jerk and Cleans? :)
Also notice you havent got any Snatch goals.
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Pyramids sound like the way forward.
ok, 2011 revised
1x 7C+, 2x 7C, 3x 7B+, 4x 7B
become a master of science
get a career
work late, rise early, strike oil
go abroad bouldering, font or switzerland.
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one more: 50:50 that ledge at micklefield!
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I thought this made interesting reading... http://www.newsweek.com/2009/05/12/talking-the-talk.html (http://www.newsweek.com/2009/05/12/talking-the-talk.html)
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I thought this made interesting reading... http://www.newsweek.com/2009/05/12/talking-the-talk.html (http://www.newsweek.com/2009/05/12/talking-the-talk.html)
That's why I've not made public my goal of climbing 9a.
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That's why I've not made public my goal of climbing 9a.
Arse.... :wall:
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I post mine mostly to remind me what they are, I have a scatterbrain like a grenade in a ball bearing factory and tend to forget what I actually want to do...!
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I'm going to strive for less specific goals this year as I think I failed on all of my goals last year. I find that for specific routes/problems I can be thwarted by the weather/where others want to go/not having a siege mentality.
Goals:
Develop a siege mentality
Onsight/flash F8a (probably abroad)
Onsight E7
Do another Birkett route
Go to Pembroke
Do some DWS
Spend next winter in Spain
Finish my PhD
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Develop a siege mentality
What lock yourself in your house, pour hot tar on anyone who knocks on the front door and drink your own piss?
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Pretty much. Although I have running water and can pay my water bill online so will probably only resort to drinking my own piss for medicinal purposes.
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Sounds like you are going at it halfheartedly. Only when you build a trebuchet in the back garden for launching dead household pets at passersby will you prove you are committed.
And any particular Birkett? Dave? Bill?
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Lots more Font 6a-6b's
Font 6b+
Get A Miller's Tale done - got the bottom half sorted so just got to learn to bone the evil sharp crimps.
Get my personal "Big Six trad routes at Millstone" done.
Tick off some of the many problems that I haven't done that litter the peak.
Finish off the work on pROJECT mAYHEM.
Study and pass CCNA
Get a new job.
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Lots more Font 6a-6b's
Font 6b+
Get A Miller's Tale done - got the bottom half sorted so just got to learn to bone the evil sharp crimps.
Get my personal "Big Six trad routes at Millstone" done.
Tick off some of the many problems that I haven't done that litter the peak.
Finish off the work on pROJECT mAYHEM.
Study and pass CCNA
Get a new job.
Burn Duncan Eagles off on a regular basis.
Climb F8a.
Stop shaking so much.
Visit Scotland more regularly.
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Lots more Font 6a-6b's
Font 6b+
Get A Miller's Tale done - got the bottom half sorted so just got to learn to bone the evil sharp crimps.
Get my personal "Big Six trad routes at Millstone" done.
Tick off some of the many problems that I haven't done that litter the peak.
Finish off the work on pROJECT mAYHEM.
Study and pass CCNA
Get a new job.
Burn Duncan Eagles off on a regular basis. :furious:
Climb F8a. :agree:
Stop shaking so much. :goodidea:
Visit Scotland more regularly. :kiss2: :spank: :shag:
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Visit Scotland more regularly. :kiss2: :spank: :shag:
I was going to put that on the list but didn't want Brokeback Beagle to get flustered like he has above... ;)
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as long as i get to some new places i will be happy
not really bothered about grades but the 1 route i do want to do is national acrobat at ramshaw.
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I thought this made interesting reading... http://www.newsweek.com/2009/05/12/talking-the-talk.html (http://www.newsweek.com/2009/05/12/talking-the-talk.html)
Fair. Personally I'd like to look back at this thread at the end of the year and make an assessment of how the year went, and try to refine my methods/aims to make next year more successful.
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1. Mecca
2. Austrian Oak and Victor Hugo
3. Flash 8a
3. Have at least one day of good trad in north wales for old times sake!
4. Kalymnos with the mrs in October
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1. Be a good dad.
2. All the problems I failed to do last year.
3. Buy a new house and move.
3. construct an awesome board in garage in said house.
4. get strong.
5. see no. 2
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Realised I'd not posted these:
Aims for 2011
Bouldering: Tick more 7Bs. Tick at least one problem harder than 7B
Trad: E4
Sport: Onsight 7a, Redpoint 7c
Winter: Tick some of the classic Vs from Cold Climbs. Ski at least two gullies on the tick list
General: Something Alpine
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KEEP THE PSYCHE
eat well
climb some hard stuff in europe
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A2, damn.... damn... damn..... :'(
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That's a bit shit.
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Brownstones is my local bouldering venue, so my 2011 aims:
Digitation
Verdinand
Groundhog
The pool traverse (Only if dry! :lol: )
Other venues:
Longridge - something around 6a/b ish. Any suggestions?
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Whilst it's a great line, I don't think Groundhog is a giveaway at the grade!
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Longridge - something around 6a/b ish. Any suggestions?
Vertical or horizontal?
Vertical - Lots to go at, start with Seven A (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Seven+A+V3)
Horizontal - The Traverse Of The Gods (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/The+Traverse+Of+The+Gods) :whistle:
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Whilst it's a great line, I don't think Groundhog is a giveaway at the grade!
Agreed. I've seen better climbers than me struggle with it and I can't see me being able to attempt it until I've got a full summer of outdoor bouldering under my belt.
Having said that, it's always good to have some thing to aspire to!
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Another one- do a "Jerry's" problem - Jerry's Arete, Jerry's Traverse, Jerry's Problem, etc.
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how about a Jerry-'atrick - Arete, Traverse, Roof?
Another aim of mine - have more dry days than days with alcohol. It was going well but after a couple poor long-weekends it's currently 19-19.
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Another one- do a "Jerry's" problem - Jerry's Arete, Jerry's Traverse, Jerry's Problem, etc.
Which Jerry though?
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(http://www.vectorjunky.com/gallery/t/Tom-and-Jerry-001.jpg)
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I don't remember Jerry being quite that camp.
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Realised I'd not posted these:
Aims for 2011
Bouldering: Tick more 7Bs. Tick at least one problem harder than 7B
Trad: E4
Sport: Onsight 7a, Redpoint 7c
Winter: Tick some of the classic Vs from Cold Climbs. Ski at least two gullies on the tick list
General: Something Alpine
As per YYFY!
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.2300.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.2300.html)
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A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
as per yyfy
Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélčne (7a/7a+), Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a), Opéra Tchétchčne (7a+), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+), Sa Pelle au Logis (7a), Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard (7a+/b) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash)
Still got one more trip planned...
Go to St Bees
Still in the development stage
Train sensibly without over doing it
So far so good
Maybe get in some grit
Not yet
Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
So far so good - thank you little man
Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
So far so good
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Another one- do a "Jerry's" problem - Jerry's Arete, Jerry's Traverse, Jerry's Problem, etc.
Which Gerry though?
(http://newsimg.bbc.co.uk/media/images/42620000/jpg/_42620277_gerryicecream-44.jpg)
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Another one- do a "Jerry's" problem - Jerry's Arete, Jerry's Traverse, Jerry's Problem, etc.
Which Jerry though?
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_dhXtO6ZA5Jg/THimFVyKvHI/AAAAAAAAAOM/M0x7oNU_NHo/s1600/Jerry+can.jpg)
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What a combo... who'd have thought...
(http://www.sogoodblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/ben-and-jerrys.jpg)
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I didn't make any aims last year as I thought it'd be a bad one, and then I met a load of aims I didn't have! But here goes...
Get a bunch of F7as done. Work 7a+ or maybe even a 7b. If I can get to Siurana in October, I'd really like to do Bistec de Biceps...
Try to onsight some more E2s. Quietus would be nice once I'm in the groove. And, I'll say it...maybe an E3 or two. But not some bold grit slab. Something big and 5c but well-protected...not decided what yet!
I'm not sure I'll make these but as my sport and bouldering grades have both gone up two points in the last 12 months I'm feeling optimistic... :) :-\
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Try to onsight some more E2s
Do Or Do Not, There Is No Try! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x51EIXjhiEU&feature=related#)
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Bit late to this but I do have an aim for the year, to keep climbing and try hard. Also to make the Beastmaker worth the cost.
No specific grades or problems in mind but Font 6 would be good to start
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Very late on the draw but, here are some aims for 2011:
V7's on at least two different rock types (High Plains Drifter @ the Buttermilk, Morning Dove White at the Happies come to mind...)
V6's on at least four different rock types
Stay injury free
Get down to a fighting weight of 185# (Currently 191)
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Bit late but hey...
Westcountry:
Carnage
Supercede
Ache Ball
Colorado Dreaming
Up north:
Terrace
Western Eyes
Alliance
Brass Monkeys
Boyager
Flatworld
France:
Noir Desir
Formis Rouge
Big Boss
Katioushka
I comme Irun
Mickey Mousse
:bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
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6b os at Arco at Easter
I just finished my last hard training week before taking it easy next week then heading off to Arco for Easter. Have been reflecting on how my first attempt at a winter of serious training in Climbing Career 2.0 went:
JANUARY-FEBRUARY: STRENGTH THROUGH BOULDERING
Complete Thalkirchen red & green circuits
Done. Completing two hard-for-me circuits at my local wall turned out to be a good goal. It forced me to work on weaknesses and persist on harder things than I would otherwise have finished. The last three problems cost me a session or more each; if they hadn't been part of a public written goal I probably would have given up and done something more congenial instead.
Perform respectably in a bouldering competition
This went well too. In the first round I comfortably beat my target score. I also identified a specific weakness - mental shakiness on higher finishes - addressed it through targeted training - lots of jumping off - and as a result performed significantly better in that respect, and slightly better overall, in the second round. yyfy, go me etc.
And in the context of the main goal - getting better at onsighting routes - flashing more problems and feeling more comfortable higher off the mats are important gains.
(Third round is in May, after I spend several weeks systematically getting weak on routes. We'll see what happens)
MARCH: POWER ENDURANCE, PREPARATION FOR ROUTES
This didn't feel like it went nearly as well. Frau M and I were both away on business trips several times, which made it difficult to find regular partners for route training sessions. I bouldered regularly, but I feel my problems on routes are mostly head at the moment, so 4x4s and traverses are a poor subsititute for going upwards.
Take 200 practice falls
This number turned out to be overambitious. Only reached three figures by counting boulder highballl jump-off training (see above). Actual falls on an actual rope about fifty. Still, this is the first time I've done any consistent & repeated falling practice. Need to keep it up.
Onsight 6a on real rock: Mittlere Weisse Wand
Nope. My one day out so far showed me - not for the first time - that diligent winter training does not automatically lead to cruising the previous year's best grade first time out. Accentuate the positive: I took the fall instead of just lamely backing off, and now I have a stunning Frankenjura classic as my redpoint project.
Redpoint 6b+ indoors
Nearly. Redpointed 6b
And in three weeks I'll know if any of it actually worked.
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Sounds like you're making progress there Muenchener - once you start getting out with more mileage on real rock you'll start to tune in to it, you're probably closer than you think!
I didn't set any aims on this before, but having landed on my head off what should have been an innocuous warmup my year has been reset somewhat. It seems a good point to set those goals though, but I have a few weeks recovery before I can get started (and a new plate in my eye socket).
So, the year started well - in January I got my first E5 onsight, the product of lots of bouldering over the winter making me a little stronger. Goals for the rest of the year:
Onsight E4 consistently - should be achievable, but remains to be seen where my head is at (pun intended).
Onsight a proper E5 - I did Track of the Cat in January, which is soft and my style, and possible to get lucky on. So I'd like to add a proper route, I'll be hoping to get mileage in at High Tor, since its my local and that seems a good spot to try one.
Redpoint F7c - might be a step too far, I've only ticked 7b before, but I've not been climbing sport for long and never spent long on a project. Cry of Despair is a candidate if it dries.
Sport in Yorkshire - only had one visit a few years ago and ticked nothing!
Get at least 3 weekends in Pembroke - why do I climb anywhere else?
I've also set up my lifetime wishlist on my UKC logbook, 50 UK routes that inspire me across the grade range to encourage me to travel to new places and focus on specific goals. There are a few that might never get done, but most are achievable.
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A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
as per yyfy
Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélčne (7a/7a+), Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a), Opéra Tchétchčne (7a+), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+), Sa Pelle au Logis (7a), Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard (7a+/b) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash)
Still got one more trip planned...
2nd trip yielded a lot of fun sub 7 plus Magic Bus (7b/+), Yogi (7b), Ah, Plus Facile! 9apparently a much tighter eliminate than was required so 7a+/possibly 7b), La Baleine (7a/+), Lapin ou Canard (7a), Le Surplomb Feuilleté gauche (départ bas) (7a) - flash and Abdolobotomy (7a) - from the proper start!
So yeah aim ticked - and the list for 2012 is developing....
Go to St Bees
Still in the development stage
Train sensibly without over doing it
So far so good
Maybe get in some grit
Not yet
Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
So far so good - thank you little man
Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
So far so good
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Aims were
1. 7b (probably nerve ending kilnsey) - done, though not nerve ending, some route at Loja
2. 7A - Done
3.7B - Done
4. onsight 7a - Flashed a couple, just need a proper onsight.
New aims:
1. Some more 7b's (got to do nerver ending if i can catch it dry!)
2. A 7C before the end of the year
3. Get a rope on for some trad and push it above gear
4. Climb long chimney.......
5. Onsight some 7a!
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Ah, you have reminded me of this.
After the massive success of 2010, most of my list rolls over. Although I've taken a couple out that just felt impossible and added some stuff nearer by.
1. Buckstone Dyno- Not far off, but a miss......
2. Screaming Slave Woodwell Stupidly close before, seem further away again?!?!
3. Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS Not been
4. West Side Story Not been
5. Jerry's Arete (Bridestones) Not been
6. Sloping Beauty (Earl) Not been
7. Underhand (Almscliff) May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot. Not been
8. Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow) Not been
9. Red Wall Project Shhh, esoteric venue. Yes!! But still a handful of other esoteric things to finish off
10. Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge) Not been
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Yes - a timely reminder...
Hmm, been having quite a long think about this. I didnt really set any aims for 2010, but managed to consolidate on 7a and 7a+ and pinch my first 7b.. I seem to have quite a few projects - so in no particular order...
Yorkshire
Underhand - possibly the extension if the first part goes early in the year. Done (not extension)
A few 7a/7a+'s to mop up: Steves wall, Patta's arete, the traverse next to it. Got steves wall the other week - others waiting..
Stu's roof LH - nearly got the stand done, think the first part may be a go-er Makign progress, but split tip and nail on the crimps put me off..
Possibly have a play on the Keel if I'm a good boy... Making some progress on the keel.. new clif project
Start doing some more stuff at Caley! Why I dont go there so often I dont know...
Peak
Lots of unfinished nearly business in the Peak...
At plantation, Green Traverse (without heels or mega dabs..), Deliverance (a long saga..), Deleverance traverse.. NTBTA no no and no... though green traverse sans heels is getting there..
At Curbar, Guerilla Warfare/Early doors (was playing on these today.. surely a matter of time....?), Maybe a speculative look at Great White.. Done neither - but did Seans Arete (7B aims done!)
Beach Ball. So close grr...
West Side Story. Never tried it, but suspect it may suit my strengths (lank and no campusing..) may be one to work... had a play - one to work..
A 7 at Rubicon. (I suspect this is the hardest for me of anything I've suggested above!) More chance of seeing the Popes cock..
Weedkiller traverse at the Tor (I think its called that..) not been
Wales
Go to the cave again, and see whether a years worth of training has given me any more ability to get off the ground on anything with a 7 in it! Been, been shut down :)
Cae Du. Have a proper trip there - camp by the beach and loaf around the boulders when the pollen is bad in the Summer!
Other bits and bobs..
A good few things at Harmers I was getting close to that I need to nail.. another one for the Summer. Making some good progress at Harmers
The flakey face thing at Wimberry
Not bad so far.. got another 7B and first 7B+...
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Longridge - something around 6a/b ish. Any suggestions?
Vertical or horizontal?
Vertical - Lots to go at, start with Seven A (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Seven+A+V3)
Horizontal - The Traverse Of The Gods (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/The+Traverse+Of+The+Gods) :whistle:
Well here's the first one off the list!
Seven A (with a sit start) :2thumbsup:
Have you another one for me Serpico? I'm still working on the TOTG!
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Having a dodgy finger and a broken foot, most of my goals have gone right out the window.... APART FROM ONE:
front lever pull up true to form, I've achieved a useless party trick goal already
DON'T GET INJURED I think that would count as an epic fail
Revised 2011 goals:
Walk
rehab finger and foot
Dream Of White Horses
sport 8a (ideally one that involves lots of campusing on jugs....)
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A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
as per yyfy
Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélčne (7a/7a+), Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a), Opéra Tchétchčne (7a+), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+), Sa Pelle au Logis (7a), Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard (7a+/b) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash)
Still got one more trip planned...
2nd trip yielded a lot of fun sub 7 plus Magic Bus (7b/+), Yogi (7b), Ah, Plus Facile! 9apparently a much tighter eliminate than was required so 7a+/possibly 7b), La Baleine (7a/+), Lapin ou Canard (7a), Le Surplomb Feuilleté gauche (départ bas) (7a) - flash and Abdolobotomy (7a) - from the proper start!
So yeah aim ticked - and the list for 2012 is developing....
Go to St Bees
Still in the development stage
Development stage on hold 'til the elbow is sorted - see below
Train sensibly without over doing it
So far so good
Maybe get in some grit
Not yet
Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
So far so good - thank you little man
Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
Hmmm seeing the sport's doctor on Saturday ...
Going to get an ultra sound on this damned elbow - seems there's both tendon damage and a nerve problem :thumbsdown:
Keeping the faith is proving little difficult right now :'(
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Sport Chuffin: 8a+ (overnight sensation, GBH, supercool), climb 8a in another country ( so far got UK, france, spain, greece, thailand - although not 100% sure aout france), go to ceuse fit.
Trad Chuffin: enjoy some classic E6s. don't get on anything too loose. E7 would be nice.
Bouldering: : do another font 7c. do more bouldering generally.
Real climbing: : 1-4-7.
Real Life: qualify as a physio. get a job.
all going well in sport... trad; well, not done anything too loose, with the cunning strategy of not going trad climbing, other than 3 days in pembroke. No bouldering, due to being in SE Asia when it was cold, and being mildly obsessed with Yorkshire limestone sport. Training: ha, 1-3-5 might have been a more realistic goal (which i still wouldn't have attained). Real life currently in progress, and pending results...
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Targets
Do a V8 of any description
Do a V8 on peak grit
Climb a grit arete that's actually hard (basically learn to climb grit aretes)
Climbs
High Speed Imp Act
Cave Righthand (Robin Hood's Stride)
Tierdrop
Not To Be Taken Away
Clever Beaver
Training
The beastmaker 45s. A lot.
Thought I was going well for the year so far as I've recently managed to tick my first V8 (yyfy!) in the cave of justice, yet that's the only aim I've completed (unless you count Balls Test at Baslow as (a) an arete and (b) hard). Oh well, at least there's still 6 months to try and rectify this
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Aims for 2011 aka the Digging A Hole Motivation Programme.
Trad
The Whaler, Stackpole still bird-banned
A bunch of classic sea-cliff E3s 4 so far
America, Carn Gowla (the proper way) team and date tentatively arranged
Wadi Rum trip yes - and did the excellent Inshallah Factor
Comici - Cima Grande (or Rabada-Navarro - Naranjo de Bulnes) flights and accommodation booked for July
E5 (by June, onsight of course) FAIL
Sport
7a onsight, ideally Fiesta de los Biceps Best onsight so far 6c+. Didn't go near Fiesta!
Try some proper sport-climbing (7b redpoint). Best so far 7a
Bouldering
V5 / 6C on grit FAIL! One day sat watching the rain from under T-crack
Other
Manage aches and pains to allow at least 9 months climbing Succeeded Jan-April but failed in May when it was all supposed to come together. Temporary set-back but non-ideal timing
This half-year is probably the most active I've been in the last 10. Of the biggest goals, E5 is still on for 2011 I think although I've just missed the deadline for 5 at 50. All set of Comici in July, hope weather, fitness, team converge...
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Feels like much the same for me, but I've slimmed it down so my emotional welll-being for the year rests on an even smaller choice of routes...
1. Empire of the Sun (Ansteys), to be honest any 7b will be good but this one has too much time and effort invested not to go down eventually.
2. The Lynch (Ansteys), not at all my style of climbing but when I'm in top form now I can just do each individual move. If I get this it will be a reall YYFY.
3. Break on Through & Fay at Sharpnose. Both a step up above what I achieved this year. E4 onsight is something of a psychological barrier so either of these will be great.
4. Wraith (Sharpnose). 2nded it in the autumn so I know how far outside my comfort zone I need to get but it just might go...
5. MTFU & do something on Sanctuary Wall
& the big one, given I've pulled/torn pulleys each of the last two years, is to stay uninjured for the year. Got to realise when to back off before something goes pop....
Near the halfway point...
1. Empire of the Sun - in the bag, siege ended YYFY etc. Loss of 5kg bodyweight from 1/2 marathon training made a surprising difference to my ability to haul myself up 70ft of overhanging limestone... 8)
2, 3, 4 & 5 haven't even been looked at yet. Too much work away means I've been home for 4 weeks since winter ended. Next time home (July) will have to pay attention to Sharpnose & the Lynch...
No injuries yet :2thumbsup:
Unexpected other bonus, ran my 1st half-marathon (Great West Run) in 1:42 so beat arbitrary target of 1:45.
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This is going to be the year.
General aim - get out a lot, avon in the evenings and pembroke weekends. do some sport in cheddar. do more gritstone.
Specific aims:
1. Trad. Get steady on E3, onsight a short bouldery E5 (strapadictomy?). When I get to the crag don't fanny around on 'warm-ups', instead do a bit of bouldering then get on what I want to do.
2. Sport. Not all that bothered. Prob a week in spain or france end of march. Do a redpoint rather than just trying to flash everything. Hopefully tick a 7c by end of year. A little ambitious perhaps.
3. Bouldering. Keep power topped up in between route climbing. Peak in autumn. Try to go somewhere other than font (might not have the self control for this aim). Perhaps magic wood/ticino? Either way, climb 7B. Have a proper go at something hard rather than thinking I can't do it because I didn't flash it.
4. Route/boulder ticklist for 2011...
Mau mau, strapadictomy, traveller in time, smear test, ascent of man, left wall, vector, pull my daisy, german schoolgirl, track of the cat
Rubis sur l'ongle, noir desir, el poussif, hyper plomb, deliverance, C3PO, sulky little boys, jerry's traverse
If all those go down I'll be a happy man.
Mid year review!!
1. Trad going fairly well. Feeling happy on most E3, onsighted first E4 last month in the pass (YYFY)
2. Done a couple of 7b's without really redpointing (couple of tries), 7b+ is definitely on. Need to find a 7c proj
3. Went to font in march, convinced myself that this was due to time and budget constraints. Had a good trip, did several 7A's. Did first 7A+, 5 goes. Tried a couple of harder things but didn't anyone to work them with/bit too warm and didn't get that far.
4. Did left wall & pull my daisy on royal wedding weekend. Not been on the grit or tried any of the others yet
Not too dissatisfied but still a bit further to go...
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Pass driving test
Done 4,000+ miles since I passed in January. :2thumbsup:
Save money for USA trip
Put away Ł1,000ish so far. :great:
Trad E2
Boulder 7a
Sport 7a
:no: although I have made progress towards my trad and bouldering goals. Haven't done a single sport route this year, though.
Stay injury-free!
:thumbsup: Only had very minor tweaks. Haven't been out of action with any of them long enough to lose momentum in my climbing.
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Trad-
Onsight some more E3's and E4's, force myself to do some slabs.
Redpoint another few E5's, maybe an E6????
Sport- Flash 7a+ and 7a more consistently outdoors.
Redpoint a 7c and more 7b+'s, to prove to myself it wasn't a fluke.
Bouldering- Flash more 7a's and 7a+'s.
Do a Font 7c!
Most importantly.... stop being lazy and do more training!
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Due to the challenges of life with three children aged 2 and under, I'm only allowing myself one proper aim this year
http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2010/12/brewing-next-years-psyche.html (http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2010/12/brewing-next-years-psyche.html)
Very psyched for this big, actual quality, line
Currently aching from the start of the training treadmill
Well I've got it cleaned at least http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2011/06/getting-beasted.html (http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2011/06/getting-beasted.html)
Excited and scared (http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/daz.gif)
More scared
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Bouldering-
Climb Renegade Master, The Joker, Brad Pit and Tumbleweed
Complete a Font 8a
Sport-
Complete a f7c+
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Trad
Onsight E3 at the Head Tick
Bouldering
7b Not yet. Hopefully next winter
Sport
Try not to do it. But if I have to do it, then onsight more 7a's or harder. Steered clear so far
Other
Get a job. Ideally in Vancouver and ideally starting late spring. But anything'll do. Mega tick. Got great job in Ireland
3 out of 4 ain't bad :)
Revised trad goals:
- Onsight more E3's
- E3 in the Burren
- E4 before the end of the summer
- Prozac Link on Lewis at the end of August
- Get back on burren project and do it
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boulder 6c+/7a everytime i go out- do able....ish by Autumn
onsight e2 regularly- very do able by spring/summer time
onsight a few e3's - do able, especially in wales
onsight a e4- do able
headpoint a e5/e6-hopefully do able by autumn time.
climb alot more sport routes in summer!!! - easily do able.
climb french 7a- maybe, havent done much sport so dont know what a french 7a is like
as soon as it gets light enough get back out on the grit in the evenings and away from the horrible indoor wall- my pleasure to do this one
big trip up to cloggy- easy to do.
scotland trip for winter and summer climbing- easy enough to do.
TRAINING
stick to your plan- very do able
concentrate on slopers and your core- do able
going well, plus i did the E5 ground up :)
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climb french 7a- maybe, havent done much sport so dont know what a french 7a is like
Given your other achievements, this should be easy.
In fact you might as well go straight for Rubicon roof and get a 7b done
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Given your other achievements, this should be easy.
In fact you might as well go straight for Rubicon roof and get a 7b done
Might as well change the goal from 7a to 7a onsight with a ground-up E5 under his belt.
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Given your other achievements, this should be easy.
In fact you might as well go straight for Rubicon roof and get a 7b done
Might as well change the goal from 7a to 7a onsight with a ground-up E5 under his belt.
I dont think Pebble Mill warrants anywhere near 7a though? seemed like a balancey v3 boulder problem start and then just 5b/c moves to the top. maybe a 6b+ or something?
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I'm not doing mine until it's exactly halfway!! Fairly mediocre so far except the "new destinations" bit which is working okay.
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Mid-term review
6b os at Arco at Easter
Yes.
Nevertheless a mixed experience. I was in Arco for two weeks with family & friends, and only got three days of proper (non-kids) climbing in. Far harder than I expected to reconcile family holiday with climbing trip.
Tried three 6bs. The first two were steep and continuous: felt like I should have been physically well capable of onsighting them, but mentally not yet. Don't have the real rock mileage. Third go I found one that suited my current abilities: short bouldery crux, not too steep.
Am focusing my wall sessions now on getting (at least physically) better at steep continuous stuff.
6c os
Not seriously tried yet, and given that my summer focus is on longer stuff in the Alps, two grades up in six months may be a a bit hopeful. Remains to be seen what a few autumn visits to the Frankenjura might bring
One or more good, big Alpine rock routes in the summer
A small yes.
The "Little" Micheluzzi on Piz Ciavazes at 300 metres and V- is right at the bottom of my target range for both length and grade but hey, the summer has only just begun and you have to start somewhere. Plus my initial plans were focused on semi-sport stuff with at least bolted stances, not full-on alpine trad with rusty pegs. Only went to the Dolomites because the weather was crap everywhere else. So learning that I can keep it together on trad gear in big, steep situations is something of a milestone - sufficiently so that I'm thinking of heading back to the Dolomites in August instead of a previously planned visit to Handegg/Grimsel. Rusty pegs & holds less scary than bolts miles apart & no holds.
Frau M saw a picture of a thirty pitch, thousand metre VII+ that was put up last year in the Wetterstein and said "we're doing that". She has never been on anything longer than four pitches. Game On.
... and/or ...
One or more classic E2s on a Welsh Trad Tour in the summer
Won't be this year. Maybe next.
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Half-term report, managed to sneak in a trip to Caithness so not quite as dire as it could be.
1. Keep in touch with friends and partners better and organise myself more proactively. - a bit, have kept in contact with some good partners and made some decent plans on the rare occasions the weather allows.
2. Get to somewhere interesting over Easter (Pedriza? Alscace?), and over summer (Scandinavia? South Africa? Hatun Machay?). - yes, got to Pedriza and have Sweden booked for July. Not mega-exotic, but inspiring.
3. Week long trip to Lewis - no, several days sea-cliffing in Skye - no, long weekend in Caithness - yes, long weekend in Mull over winter/spring - yes. - still working on it, awful summer weather has prevented proper trips.
4. Get to Merionydd & Lleyn when weather is bolleaux in Scotland. - no.
5. Keep exploring cool places in Scotland. - a little bit, Mull was cool and got to Loch Maree crags pre-midges.
6. Explore more bouldering over winter: Torridon, Reiff, Skye, Mull, Inverness, Aberdeen, Trossachs, Northumberland, Carrock Fell, Gouther, St Bees. - a little bit, had some great bouldering days at Loch Buie (Mull), Ruthven Boulder (Inverness) and Clash (Aberdeen). Didn't do much else but can wait till next year.
7. Climb a few E5s. - nowhere near, weather has been so awful since April that I've not managed to get onto inspiring harder routes, plus have slacked off stamina / fitness training a bit.
8. Climb a few F7a+s. - no, see above
9. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall. - a little bit, particularly in spring, have lazed off now and need to keep it up though.
10. Lose 1 stone via the above. - no, have lost 1/4 stone it seems, rest will be hard.
Overall, exploration and travelling has been quite reasonable, as has maintaining a fairly acceptable standard of mediocrity. Getting to Scottish destinations and progressing with my climbing has been quite rubbish, partly due to my haphazard training and mostly due to the atrocious weather. I can work on this by continuining to be patient and trying hard to make the most out of training periods.
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Become a Master of Science Almost a tick
Get a career rolling Almost a tick
7C+ Not yet
Do more classic Yorkshire 7s Yes, but more would be nice.
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I've abandoned my goal of 8a bloc before I was 33 (I would of had to of done some climbing and training) and all I want this year is to move house without too much bother.
Climbing a load of 7c and the odd 7c+ would be great tho.
Might see if I can do a french 8a in the summer
Well I moved house so that ones ticked ;D, however a snapped bicep tendon :( at the start of March has messed up my climbing ambitions for this year.
hopefully be climbing again in a month or 2 and start training properly by the end of the year
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A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
as per yyfy
Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélčne (7a/7a+), Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a), Opéra Tchétchčne (7a+), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+), Sa Pelle au Logis (7a), Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard (7a+/b) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash)
Still got one more trip planned...
2nd trip yielded a lot of fun sub 7 plus Magic Bus (7b/+), Yogi (7b), Ah, Plus Facile! (apparently a much tighter eliminate than was required so 7a+/possibly 7b), La Baleine (7a/+), Lapin ou Canard (7a), Le Surplomb Feuilleté gauche (départ bas) (7a) - flash and Abdolobotomy (7a) - from the proper start!
So yeah aim ticked - and the list for 2012 is developing....
Go to St Bees
Oh yes - three days just past. Even with some pain in the elbows and a very dodgy back it was awesome
Tick list wasn't the biggest in world - a nice haul of sies plus Headbanger (7a), Chipper's Wall (7a+), Kraken - both flavours (both 7a+ - though the RH finish seemed a good bit harder than the left), Dead Calm (7a+/b) and Black Hole SDS (7b in the guide...)
Must good back, so beautiful and some much more to do.... :w00t:
(oh and thanks to the St Bee's locals who showed us around on Friday evening)
Train sensibly without over doing it
So far so good
Back in the shed too (see below) - so power is coming back
Maybe get in some grit
Trip booked for Nov' half term....
Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
So far so good - thank you little man
Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
Sae the sports doctor...
Ultra sound showed tendon damage (both elbows) - but recovering well with physio exercises :thumbsup:
The nerve problem cleared up with physio :great:
Keeping the faith is proving little easier - just need to be clam and realise I ain't getting any younger....
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Update...
Onsight E4 consistently - Not had enough trad mileage this summer, but getting up a few E3s and got on some E4s at least. Week in Pembroke coming up...
Onsight a proper E5 Not attempted, but plenty of time for a High Tor tick.
Redpoint F7c Not got stuck into any real projects this summer, but have been onsighting 7a and getting 7a+/b second go consistently, which is progress :)
Sport in Yorkshire Had weekend set aside and then didn't go...
Get at least 3 weekends in Pembroke No weekends, but had 5 days in June and another 7 coming up.
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1) Do some thing hard without so much fucking about.
2) Cut down on booze.
3) Stop being a grumpy old git.
4) Don't get bored.
5) Blow them skinny buggers out of the water.
6) Tick my tick list (now then, that would be good).
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Aims were
1. 7b (probably nerve ending kilnsey) - done, though not nerve ending, some route at Loja
2. 7A - Done
3.7B - Done
4. onsight 7a - Flashed a couple, just need a proper onsight.
New aims:
1. Some more 7b's (got to do nerver ending if i can catch it dry!) Did nerve ending- wasnt massivley dry....
2. A 7C before the end of the year Keel swing is pretty standard now, just need to do one campus move.....
3. Get a rope on for some trad and push it above gear Not as much as i should, but done the odd good thing here and there
4. Climb long chimney.......FAIL
5. Onsight some 7a! Dont think so, fell off on last bolt on one, but havent really been bolt clipping
Aims before xmas - 1. Keel, cherry falls rh. and the horn
2. Get lots of 7B's done
3. Get stronger
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Training
Finish mini-PE phase and get back onto pure power! Party tricks including 1-4-7 (1-4-6.5), one arm pull ups (done!) and front levers (not trained).
Maintain fitness and route head throughout prime bouldering season - will mean weekly leading sessions hopefully outside but if necessary at turdburghs.
Bouldering
Regular trips to Sheffield and Leeds capitalising on availability of floor space to have a decent winter/spring on the grit. Finish my unfinished business including T-crack. (pretty much failed. Did manage deliverance in a weekend and hoping to finish tetris on Sunday after clearing the contents of my flat to my folks' house)
Taper sensibly before 2 or 3 week font trip planned for Easter. Hope for decent conditions and flesh out my pyramid hoping to peak at 7C (maybe L’Ange Naif) - no joy on L'ange Naif but did finally finish Onde du Choc last week (YYFY! long term project, must have first pulled on 3 years ago)
Get to the cave and try Rock Atrocity. didn't happen
Get to the pass and try Jerry’s Roof.didn't happen
Routes (sport)
Get back to Anstey’s ASAP and put the Cider Soak to bed. Not yet - saturday this weekend will be a cove day if i can find a catch + all of next weekend will be spent there to have one last push
More sport after Font. Put some meat on the bones of what currently looks a very thin pyramid.
Finally get a 7a on sight! Still no joy - consistently get 7as first redpoint but struggle with route reading, to sort in Oz!
Routes (trad)
Try some trad in the UK ASAP. N/A
Life
Move to Australia!! Either arrange a 12 month sabbatical with 6-9 months climbing and a secondment or hand in my notice and just go
I'd like to get my shit sorted within the next 6 months as my brother and his gf will be in Aus for 12 months from next week and it’d be sweet to spend a few months climbing in the bluies with them before they come back to the UK. Move on 7 October, YYFY!!
Time for an update:
Still missing my route goals but will be spending the next three months pretty much just climbing routes in Oz so that can be resolved. Will have to get on some trad from the research I've done so that should be fun
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Andy - may well be on staffs grit on sun afternoon - drop me a text if you're around
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Maintain 3-days a week at the wall, campus regularly and use the 45 more. Bag the long time problem ive still not done after 2 years! Not doing 3-days at the wall now as I got a girlfried in Feb but im actually training more! Finaly did the 2yr project on the woody
Tetris (on Sunday) Did that on the Sunday
The Fink s/s
Giza (Before its downgraded!)
Simple Simon
Stall s/s Not done these yet but there is still plenty of time for grit
Head out East more often Yup
A long sport climbing trip over easter to set me up for a decent season in the UK! Nope
Finishing off 'Sturgeon in the cuboard' Didnt try, but did my first 7c sport in the form of 'Too Old to Be bold'
I didnt bank on bouldering much on lime this summer as all but one of my buddies hate the stuff (Mainly The Leek Lads) but I spent most of the summer with Blacky and togther we had our most productive lime seasons to date. I bagged:
4 No. 7A's, 5 No. 7A+'s, 5 No. 7B's and 1 7C... which im very very happy with!
Here's to a dry, cold winter chaps :great:
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Andy - may well be on staffs grit on sun afternoon - drop me a text if you're around
Will do. I have a catch for Saturday now so I'm heading to ansteys on sat. Moving a car load of stuff to mum and dad's shouldn't take more than the morning so sunday afternoon sounds perfect
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Update:
Fuck the weather, fuck it up it's shitty pustulent arse with a cylindrical cheesegrater.
That is all.
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A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
as per yyfy
Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélčne (7a/7a+), Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a), Opéra Tchétchčne (7a+), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+), Sa Pelle au Logis (7a), Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard (7a+/b) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash)
Still got one more trip planned...
2nd trip yielded a lot of fun sub 7 plus Magic Bus (7b/+), Yogi (7b), Ah, Plus Facile! (apparently a much tighter eliminate than was required so 7a+/possibly 7b), La Baleine (7a/+), Lapin ou Canard (7a), Le Surplomb Feuilleté gauche (départ bas) (7a) - flash and Abdolobotomy (7a) - from the proper start!
So yeah aim ticked - and the list for 2012 is developing....
Go to St Bees
Oh yes - three days just past. Even with some pain in the elbows and a very dodgy back it was awesome
Tick list wasn't the biggest in world - a nice haul of sies plus Headbanger (7a), Chipper's Wall (7a+), Kraken - both flavours (both 7a+ - though the RH finish seemed a good bit harder than the left), Dead Calm (7a+/b) and Black Hole SDS (7b in the guide...)
Must good back, so beautiful and some much more to do.... :w00t:
(oh and thanks to the St Bee's locals who showed us around on Friday evening)
Train sensibly without over doing it
So far so good
Back in the shed too (see below) - so power is coming back
Maybe get in some grit
Well almost - had three days in the peak and climbed 3 grit problems....
A couple of warm ups and a 7a flash - otherwise spent the time hunkering down out of the rain at the Tor and swearing at Weedkiller - first session went well second badly and the third was victorious - a thanks to the lovely locals who were pysched for me even though they were all on much harder things - did nothing to dispel the myth that al Sheffield climbers are mutant strong ;D So aim completed? - just - also had a nice little session at the Works which is always a bonus
Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
So far so good - thank you little man
Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
Sae the sports doctor...
Ultra sound showed tendon damage (both elbows) - but recovering well with physio exercises :thumbsup:
The nerve problem cleared up with physio :great:
Keeping the faith is proving little easier - just need to be clam and realise I ain't getting any younger....
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OK, I probably wont get any more in this year so time for my end of year report.
Hmm, been having quite a long think about this. I didnt really set any aims for 2010, but managed to consolidate on 7a and 7a+ and pinch my first 7b.. I seem to have quite a few projects - so in no particular order...
Yorkshire
Underhand - possibly the extension if the first part goes early in the year.
A few 7a/7a+'s to mop up: Steves wall, Patta's arete, the traverse next to it.
Stu's roof LH - nearly got the stand done, think the first part may be a go-er
Possibly have a play on the Keel if I'm a good boy...
Start doing some more stuff at Caley! Why I dont go there so often I dont know...
Well underhand went :) First 7B+, so did Steves Wall (great problem) - no real progress on Stu's (reamed off half a nail trying) and made some good progress on the Keel (tickled the pocket) before summer came..
Peak
Lots of unfinished nearly business in the Peak...
At plantation, Green Traverse (without heels or mega dabs..), Deliverance (a long saga..), Deleverance traverse.. NTBTA
At Curbar, Guerilla Warfare/Early doors (was playing on these today.. surely a matter of time....?), Maybe a speculative look at Great White..
Beach Ball. So close grr...
West Side Story. Never tried it, but suspect it may suit my strengths (lank and no campusing..) may be one to work...
A 7 at Rubicon. (I suspect this is the hardest for me of anything I've suggested above!)
Weedkiller traverse at the Tor (I think its called that..)
Oops. Nothing here... though started working WSS with some eventual progress.. My summer lime season was awful. I started quite keenly, working a couple of 7's at Wubicon, but then just seemed to tweak elbows and had to chill out on the crimp and pull stuff (ie all lime~!)
Wales
Go to the cave again, and see whether a years worth of training has given me any more ability to get off the ground on anything with a 7 in it!
Cae Du. Have a proper trip there - camp by the beach and loaf around the boulders when the pollen is bad in the Summer!
Other bits and bobs..
A good few things at Harmers I was getting close to that I need to nail.. another one for the Summer.
The flakey face thing at Wimberry
No real progress on these either - Summer was quite wet, so little Harmers activity...
So a bit of a disappointing end to the year in terms of grads - having started really well. Summer (the log summer) didnt do me any favours... but I've not gone backwards since the spring, which is a good thing as at one point I thought I was! I also managed another 7B+ by proxy, as tracking was upgraded in the new guide ;)
7C is next years target (it was this years) and I think Underhand extension is a primo soft touch candidate for that - followed by the Keel.. but still getting out and enjoying it. I think next year I may just treat lime a something I have to do if everything else is log, instead of going for it....
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Here goes:
8b. Having done a few more 8a+'s, 8b has to be next. Nope, but did find one I want to properly get stuck into next year
Boulder 7b+ - as for last year, just need to get on something and put the effort in. Nope, didn't get on one hence didn't put the effort in. Again
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Oh, should have mentioned get an 8 outside The Dales. Success, but should have done at least 2 more. Next year.
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Ooh er. I feel shy among all these 7s & 8s with my humble little middle aged punter goals. But anyway:
6b os at Arco at Easter Yes.
6c os: actually maybe not so humble, given that my best os on real rock last year was 6a, and felt hard No.
One or more good, big Alpine rock routes in the summer sort of, see below.
... and/or ...
One or more classic E2s on a Welsh Trad Tour in the summer maybe next year.
What went well
Dolomites
Frankenjura
Boulder comps
What went less well
Arco
alpine multipitch sport
Dolomites
My first climbing trip to the Ds only consisted of a long weekend in June in which we did one route and retreated from another. But I was hugely impressed and definitely want to go back.
Frankenjura
A couple of long weekend visits in the autumn. Fantastic place. The bolt spacing is demanding compared to "normal" sport climbing areas like Arco, and I find steep climbing generally quite intimidating, but the rock is so fantastic and the area is so laid back and pleasant, I fell in love. Luckily it's just round the corner. Will be going back as regularly as possible.
Boulder comps
Did five rounds of local boulder comps and found them great fun and a good training motivator, even though I'm generally more interested in routes. My fifty year old shoulders and elbows start to hurt rather quickly if I pull too much steep plastic though.
Arco
I reached my winter training goal - 6b onsight in Arco at Easter - but in general the naive attempt to combine a family holiday with a proper climbing trip was a frustrating failure.
Alpine multipitch sport
Was my major aim for the summer, and I did manage to get several trips in despite vicissitudes with weather and partners. But the routes I did turned out to be generally underwhelming, despite a couple of them being supposedly classics of the genre.
AIMS FOR 2012
Focus on areas/experiences rather than chasing numbers.
Frankenjura as regularly as possible
And any two of the following:
Dolomites again
Oberreintal looks great: planned trip last June fell victim to weather & illness
Swiss/Italian alpine granite: Handegg, Salbit, Mello ...
Welsh trad nostalgia trip
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Having a dodgy finger and a broken foot, most of my goals have gone right out the window.... APART FROM ONE:
front lever pull up true to form, I've achieved a useless party trick goal already
DON'T GET INJURED I think that would count as an epic fail
Revised 2011 goals:
Walk ticked
rehab finger and foot ticked
Dream Of White Horses not tried it
sport 8a (ideally one that involves lots of campusing on jugs....) YYFY
Also managed my pre-breakage goal of 7C. Definitely a mixed year - got very strong and fit, but only used it to bimble about on increasingly dangerous grit things until I fucked a finger and then broke my foot just as the limestone dried out >:( Returning to previous form from being unable to walk has been very satisfying though.
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My big focus this year is going to be my massive weak link - finger strength. Am determined to do it properly, i.e. MTFU and do a decent, structured session of hangs and stuff once a week.
Fail! Started well but as I could have predicted went in too hard and ended up triggering shoulder tweak.
Assuming I can keep uninjured I'm hoping this will lead to scrubbing off a few of...
Trad
A few outstanding Peak ticks - definitely Long John's at Froggatt
Nope. Did get a good day at Froggatt but most of it assisting with an fallen climber before I got warmed up and then didn't really feel like a necky solo.
Sport
Whatever I can be bothered to try - probably nowt
Nowt. Though I did onsight what was probably a pretty soft indoor 7b.
Bouldering
More Cliff classix - Patta's, DWR (please!), Si's Arete
Get on more stuff at Caley Roadside this year
Peak CV omissions - Breakfast, Deliverance, Satin, Crescent Arete slabs to name a few
Tick more 7a problems on Font trip this year
Font 7b anywhere
Cliff mission has meant putting away a few of the classics but none of the above - though last weekend I did randomly get the heel to stick on DWR so will maybe a) get back there on New Year's Eve and b) give it another crack.
Did get some good stuff at Caley done on a nice day around Easter, nothing notable though.
Peak CV omissions remain omissions mainly as I spent more time on the lime over the summer.
Font 7as - yes. Did Sa Pelle Au Logis and Kalins De Kim.
Font 7b. Ha ha.
Other
Take more photos when out and about
Sort out my laptop so that I can edit video and make some non-quality bouldering videos
Run sub-45 min 10k in a proper race
Yep, more pics but still not really that much quality.
Did get laptop sorted for editing, need to get a decent camera to generate some footage now.
Sub 45 10k?! What was I thinking??
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Aims for 2011
Trad
The Whaler, Stackpole yes - although inadvertently avoided 5' and the crux
A bunch of classic sea-cliff E3s a good selection, though Pembroke over-represented
America, Carn Gowla (the proper way) Highpoint of the year
Wadi Rum trip yes - and did the excellent Inshallah Factor
Comici - Cima Grande (or Rabada-Navarro - Naranjo de Bulnes) ticked the Comici
E5 (by June, onsight of course) FAIL
Sport
7a onsight, ideally Fiesta de los Biceps a late sucess with Shakin' Like a Leaf Didn't go near Fiesta
Try some proper sport-climbing (7b redpoint). Still nothing harder than 7a, still trad. climbing on bolts
Bouldering
V5 / 6C on grit FAIL! One day sat watching the rain from under T-crack
Other
Manage aches and pains to allow at least 9 months climbing about 9 months active climbing and managed something most weeks
Be a gooDAD, appease disapproving partner, stay in work (whilst all around get fired) and survive enough 2.5 hour drives to proper climbing to achieve the above Find out on 16th of Jan. if our tender for the course has been successful and consequently if I'm still in a job
My best year's climbing since the late 90s, some good adventures and a major goal achieved. Notable success in staying mostly uninjured. Minor sport-climbing and bouldering fails and I really should have just got on a Pembroke E5 in April or May. What could have been the worst thing to happen? Bruised ego... I must at least attempt one in 2012. More early season sport climbing (and a bit less adventuring) next year should help.
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Sport Chuffin: 8a+ (overnight sensation, GBH, supercool), climb 8a in another country ( so far got UK, france, spain, greece, thailand - although not 100% sure aout france), go to ceuse fit.
Trad Chuffin: enjoy some classic E6s. don't get on anything too loose. E7 would be nice.
Bouldering: : do another font 7c. do more bouldering generally.
Real climbing: : 1-4-7.
Real Life: qualify as a physio. get a job.
Sport; aced that one, having done 3 8a+s, an 8b and flashed (UK) 7b+ this year. Out to El Chorro on the 27th....
Trad: fairly pleased with a handful of good E5s and plenty of E4s, since i only really got back into it in October. More trad next year!
Boudering: probable massive fail; only harder bouldering on limestone eliminates, so no idea of any numbers.
1-4-7 :no:
Qualified, tick :smart: Voluntary job, tick, accepted on a talent pool list, tick. So not quite a job yet, but steps on the way.
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Aims for 2011
Sport
7a onsight, ideally Fiesta de los Biceps a late sucess with Shakin' Like a Leaf Didn't go near Fiesta
if you want a partner for a Riglos mission next year you know who to call :2thumbsup:, or Pembroke E5s come to that.
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1. Keep in touch with friends and partners better and organise myself more proactively. - a bit, have kept in contact with some good partners and made some decent plans on the rare occasions the weather allows.
2. Get to somewhere interesting over Easter (Pedriza? Alscace?), and over summer (Scandinavia? South Africa? Hatun Machay?). - yes, got to Pedriza and to Sweden booked for July. Not mega-exotic, but inspiring and awesome.
3. Week long trip to Lewis - no, several days sea-cliffing in Skye - no, long weekend in Caithness - yes, long weekend in Mull over winter/spring - yes. In general - no, cunting terrible weather.
4. Get to Merionydd & Lleyn when weather is bolleaux in Scotland. - no.
5. Keep exploring cool places in Scotland. not really - Mull was cool and got to Loch Maree crags pre-midges, rest was fucked by awful weather
6. Explore more bouldering over winter: Torridon, Reiff, Skye, Mull, Inverness, Aberdeen, Trossachs, Northumberland, Carrock Fell, Gouther, St Bees. - a little bit, had some great bouldering days at Loch Buie (Mull), Ruthven Boulder (Inverness) and Clash (Aberdeen). Explored a teeny bit of Reiff and Glen Nevis in the 2 weeks of dry weather this autumn, also the County.
7. Climb a few E5s. - nowhere near, weather has been so awful since April that I've not managed to get onto inspiring harder routes, plus have slacked off stamina / fitness training a bit.
8. Climb a few F7a+s. - no, see above
9. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall. - no, have struggled with motivation totally and pretty depressed by weight and fitness issues.
10. Lose 1 stone via the above. - no struggled a lot with this.
Plus:
Fuck the weather, fuck it up it's shitty pustulent arse with a cylindrical cheesegrater.
Basically, first half of the year was good - Malta, Pedriza and especially Sweden were great, and Mull and Loch Maree just about made up for very limited dry weather.
The second half of the year was fucking shite. There weather has been utterly awful in Scotland since mid-July, with a solitary dry fortnight in fucking November, ruining trad exploration for the whole summer. Lack of continuous climbing has had a knock on effect on my health and fitness, making it harder to keep fighting against my physical and mental issues. The......mauve lining to this relentlessly driech cloud is it's highlighted the need to orientate my life around action and activity (and scenes that motivate that), and the opportunity to train at TCA which has saved me from total inertia.
Annus demi-horribilis.
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Go to font at least twice
Nope- Injured
Go on a good climbing holiday somewhere new
Nope- Injured. Wait, take it back, pembroke counts.
Actually climb something in wales rather than just the beacon
Done, some great days out.
Lose some chub
Done. Still doing it.
Get fingers stronger
Yes, but then got injured.
Go sea level traversing
Done, couple times, great fun.
Get better at mtb
I'm just shit
"" ................kayaking
I'm just shit
"".................fell running
Yep. Had a good race. Then got injured.
"".................writing poetry
Struggle a bit this year, but a few worth re-reading. Will get back to it sometime.
Get a road bike
Nah, just got road tyres.
Finish my PGCE
Done.
Get a job
Nope. On the dole.
Find love
Think so.
Not much to ask right?
Well it was. It was a good year, I got a lot done. I've also gotten alright at salsa dancing and started a distance masters in philosophy. Fuck know what 2012 will bring or what my aims will be.
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Try not to spend most of the year injured. Not too bad, a few niggles, the end of the year being the worst.
Try to be able to climb more than once a week without my shoulders disintegrating. Again twice a week is O.K but 3 is still difficult but doable.
Climb 6A in the forest. Done although one of the softest, Zip-zut at Isatis.
Do Cristalline at Rocher Fin a supposed 4+, which I keep falling off. Nope, got to crux twice, spied some Belgian out of the corner of my eye, fell off. If the weather dries out, hopefully in January
Get back to the U.K and do some classic grit stuff, Crescent arete etc. Did loads of easy stuff, but midges/ kids/ dogs stopped any attempt on Crescent arete or anything needing a bit of work.
Who knows maybe buy a rope and do something with that. Top-roped the sister's kids up Grotto slab, set up lots of belay but didn't climb anything.
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After the massive success of 2010, most of my list rolls over.
Feels like much the same for me, but I've slimmed it down so my emotional welll-being for the year rests on an even smaller choice of routes...
1. Empire of the Sun (Ansteys), to be honest any 7b will be good but this one has too much time and effort invested not to go down eventually. - went down third session of the year with surprisingly little stress after running related weight loss
2. The Lynch (Ansteys), not at all my style of climbing but when I'm in top form now I can just do each individual move. If I get this it will be a reall YYFY. - nope, not even looked at it
3. Break on Through & Fay at Sharpnose. Both a step up above what I achieved this year. E4 onsight is something of a psychological barrier so either of these will be great. - nope only made it to Sharpnose once and climbed like a buffoon
4. Wraith (Sharpnose). 2nded it in the autumn so I know how far outside my comfort zone I need to get but it just might go...nope, see above...
& the big one, given I've pulled/torn pulleys each of the last two years, is to stay uninjured for the year. Got to realise when to back off before something goes pop.... - so far so good but there's still 5 days to go
Hmmm, not an overwhelming performance. Hard to complete your goals when you don't get on the damn things. Climbing went to pot between the end of May and late November due to being away too much with work and family things going on whenever I was home. Must try harder.
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make an over-ambitious, completely unrealistic tick-list that has no chance of being completed Complete Success
complete bloc pyramid with a few 7Bs, a 7B+, couple of 7Cs & Brad Pit - Nowhere near, only managed 1 problem > 7a+ all year
Sport 8a Nowhere near, struggled to do another 7c
OS a few longish 7a+s gave up trying 7a/+s early on as I knew I wasn't fit enough and there's only so many to go at in the peak
E4 trad very intermittent as usual, maxed out with a clutch if E2s (plus an E3 if anyone really thinks Black Hawk Bastion is worth that grade)
Climb on a proper big (by UK standards) cliff, multi-pitch away up in the mountains only one (mostly wet) trip in March a bit early, did Spiral Stairs & Flying Buttress on the Cromlech which was great fun but not quite what I was after
Retain the UKB FFL title YYFY
Use my camera more (stills and video) + buy some decent video editing software and make some half decent clips rather than the crap I've produced to date. use it more but still produce crap
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Not really many specific aims but it would be really nice to go up a sport grade as i haven't done this for six years. Would love to do something hard bouldering wise, maybe Pilgrim in Parisellas. Lots of hard work needed for these goals. Would also like to get back into onsighting and maybe do an onsighting trip somewhere soft ;)
NOPE
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send incredible bulk first attempt...
id like too do my first v8 by the end of the year if not atleast a v7
Fuckin check you out Mr hard V9 ;)
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1. Fix my rotator cuff - 1 week rest + 2 weeks of theraband so far
2. Climb at Si's birthday trip to Northumberland without pain! - Coming up Feb 11th-13th
3. A short 8A+ bloc - Probably Rotherham or Switzerland!
4. An 8a sport route - Will need to be something under 15 metres
5. Get to Switzerland in the van - Thinking April or August
6. Get to Hueco in Nov/Dec - Need to save some $
7. Hang the beastmaker 45's for more than 3 seconds - Unlikely!
1,2,5,7 TICK
3 - Shut down on shorter ones but managed another longer one in Cave (In Life), should have done Pilgrim too.
4. Did 1 day of Slate climbing and did some 6c sport routes, major fail!
6. Went to Font twice instead in Nov/Dec and ticked off Eclipse, Arrache Coeur, Big Boss and Fourmis Rouge, so some joy and finally stuck into the big 4
Could have been worse. Have avoided too many more injuries and just had the odd shoulder niggle and back strain this year which was a new one. Hopefully fighting fit in 2012 to kick on a bit before getting too old :boxing:
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1. Be a good dad.
2. All the problems I failed to do last year.
3. Buy a new house and move.
3. construct an awesome board in garage in said house.
4. get strong.
5. see no. 2
1. Doing ok so far... WIP
2. Hmmmm little to no progress.
3. Tick
3. Tick.
4. Need to get on the afore mentioned a bit more...
5. Nope
Semi successful year, here's to getting on the board more and becoming a beast
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7C Quite a few of these and even a couple of weird grit morpho 7C+ dynos, have since become sickeningly weak from sport climbing too much and would be happy to achieve this again next year...
8adefinitely got this one, climbed a total of 12 8as (one flash) and 4 8a+s, although going on a five month sport climbing trip probably helped a fair bit :)
West Side Story (by next week dammit) yes, although have since been back and unable to repeat it, perhaps this should be another goal that carries over for next year...
Spring Voyage not been back on it.
take training seriously:
4/5 indoor sessions each week + outdoor at least once getting there
get good sleep fully failed this one...
eat well getting better
less booze. I seem to have cut down from little and often to lots occasionally... probably not an improvement...
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get good sleep fully failed this one...
:lol:
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1. Get a nice fat double page spread photograph and text in the only men's style magazine I would be seen dead with. (Tick...)
Yep, so did that already...
2. Become a father
And again, tick (quite an easy list so far...)
3. Win Masterchef (assuming small child fits around schedule)
Fuckers didn't even acknowledge my application
4. Gold standard for La Marmotte
Silver
5. Finish redecorating my bloody house.
Getting there - fuck me - for once I appear to have pretty much ticked the bloody thing.
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1. Finish final semester of architecture and produce a final project to be supremely proud of.
2. Get job in practice
3. Pay off some debt
4. Immerse myself wholeheartedly in climbing when I graduate during spare time
5. Specifics - my boulder project ticked.
- resume route climbing and get better at it
6. Decide if I'm moving to Ticino to practice and really make this happen if it's going to.
1. Tick to some extent
2.Tick
3.Tick and still ticking
4.Ticked then two A2 strains came about. Probably tried to change gear from neutral to fifth. Back in action albeit with sore scar tissue.
5. - Was coming along very nicely and thought it was going to get done as strains stopped play. Wanted to cry.
- Didn't do a single route this year but routes are probably a distraction really.
6. An ongoing dream I guess.
More ticks than last year but would like some climbing ticks this year. Bests to all of you for the year's goals ahead :)
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Didn't really post this year but had left overs from 2010
climbing
climb more than 5 8a or above in a year Fail again
papillon in font Fail, not been to Font this year :(
vague patatras in font Fail, not been to Font this year :(
any beautiful 8a in leavenworth Tick, FA of new uber roof link and did Chutzpah down the road at Index too, but dropped the last move on the Practitioner a bunch of times (add to aims for 2012)
sport climb 13a Tick, Blazing Buckets, Big Chief, Lake Tahoe
sport climb 8a Fail, Close but very unmotivated for sport climbing this year
xaviers roof in bishop, looks better than bad sex, too short to do it the mega cool press way, too much of a wuss to do it the shorties mega sharp crimp way Fail no trys this year, maybe next...
beautiful gecko in bishop Fail, but some good links add to 2012 list...
try and climb some 8a+ boulders Fail, not tried any other than beautiful gecko, 2012.....
Non Climbing
1st aim for 2011 will be complete mountain of insane paperwork and hoop jumping required to get married and live in the states Tick, the biggest ever, married nearly a year now have green card job etc, syked on having a wife
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After the massive success of 2010, most of my list rolls over. Although I've taken a couple out that just felt impossible and added some stuff nearer by.
1. Buckstone Dyno. Tried briefly with no success.
2. Screaming Slave Woodwell. Irritatingly close, but no cigar.
3. Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS. Didn't try it.
4. West Side Story. Didn't try it
5. Jerry's Arete (Bridestones). Didn't try it, and it's wrecked anyway.
6. Sloping Beauty (Earl). Some progress, but Earl hates me.
7. Underhand (Almscliff) May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot. Never got a chance to go back.
8. Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow). Didn't try it in 2011.
9. Red Wall Project tick!! Did the main line, one harder problem to get back on and finish.
10. Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge). Didn't try it.
Usual pathetic result.
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Brownstones is my local bouldering venue, so my 2011 aims:
Digitation fail
Verdinand fail
Groundhog didn't even try
The pool traverse (Only if dry! :lol: ) oh so close but...fail
Other venues:
Longridge - something around 6a/b ish. Any suggestions?
On the plus side, did Parr's crack with sit start! :2thumbsup:
Also, managed to shed a few pounds which is always useful.
So, not a great year in terms of goals but I'm climbing more consistently than last year and improved my power to weight ratio so roll on 2012.
Hopefully my new finger board will help too.
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Started 2011 with the vague idea of trying to do 100 routes of F7a or above, mainly to stop me getting stuck projecting on stuff that was too hard for me, and trying to get out trad climbing more than previous years.
Achieved the 100 F7s by mid-December thanks to European trips (over 60 of the 100 were abroad) and still managed to tick a few harder (for me) things even though volume was the main aim. Also got a bit more trad done and ticked a few things off the long-term wishlist (Get Some In, Crimson Cruiser).
No excuses for 2012 now....
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This is going to be the year.
General aim - get out a lot, avon in the evenings and pembroke weekends. do some sport in cheddar. do more gritstone.
Specific aims:
1. Trad. Get steady on E3, onsight a short bouldery E5 (strapadictomy?). When I get to the crag don't fanny around on 'warm-ups', instead do a bit of bouldering then get on what I want to do.
Not done all that much trad this year, but am feeling steady on E3 now. No E5 though did a token (dubious?) E4 onsight in May.
2. Sport. Not all that bothered. Prob a week in spain or france end of march. Do a redpoint rather than just trying to flash everything. Hopefully tick a 7c by end of year. A little ambitious perhaps.
Turned out to be a fairly sport-centric year. Had done bits in Cheddar previously but really discovered it this year. Exceeded expectations and did a couple of 7c's, one in a session and the other in a couple of goes. Also onsighting 7a fairly consistently. Very happy with this.
3. Bouldering. Keep power topped up in between route climbing. Peak in autumn. Try to go somewhere other than font (might not have the self control for this aim). Perhaps magic wood/ticino? Either way, climb 7B. Have a proper go at something hard rather than thinking I can't do it because I didn't flash it.
No 7B. Not really been on the grit either. Went to Font in March and did a few 7A's, one 7A+ and went to some new areas which was good. Not been on any proper bouldering trips since.
4. Route/boulder ticklist for 2011...
Mau mau, strapadictomy, traveller in time, smear test, ascent of man, left wall, vector, pull my daisy, german schoolgirl, track of the cat
Rubis sur l'ongle, noir desir, el poussif, hyper plomb, deliverance, C3PO, sulky little boys, jerry's traverse
If all those go down I'll be a happy man.
Only a couple, haven't been on grit much and so haven't got on many of these. Tried Rubis (quite close) & Noir Desir (too hot/too hard) in font.
Summary - Pretty happy with this year. Sport level boosted which will hopefully carry through to Trad. Need to power up for bouldering, feel better but weaker than in Spring 2011. Font in Feb should provide some extra motivation. Bring on 2012...
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any beautiful 8a in leavenworth Tick, FA of new uber roof link and did Chutzpah down the road at Index too, but dropped the last move on the Practitioner a bunch of times (add to aims for 2012)
I dropped in at Leavenworth for a day and a half over the summer - lovely place- great rock :) love to get back some day...
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First the good:
Pass driving test
Yep. Passed 11 days in. :2thumbsup:
Save money for USA trip
Yep. No concrete plan for USA trip though. Still I've been abroad once with cash I've saved and saving is still going well. :greed:
Stay injury-free!
Yep. :smart:
Now the bad:
Trad E2
Nope. :no: Not even been on an E2 this year, although I have broadened the range of E1s I've done a bit- this time last year it was just easy but dangerous slabs. I'm sure I could have been doing E2s since about summer but I only ever climb trad with people who warm up on HSs and think HVS is the living end- in these circumstances it's (evidently) too easy to not push yourself. As last year I've done loads of good routes this year, but few have been enjoyable in terms of pushing myself.
Boulder 7a
Not even close. 6b+ still takes me a few sessions and many 6bs still feel improbable. :look: Whether this is due to only ever going bouldering on my own and the resultant one pad/ no spotter/ no encouragement situation that results or just my lack of bouldering psyche and ability is debatable.
Sport 7a
Nope. BUT, I flashed 6c in October and have still never had more than 3 goes on a route so this feels like the goal I missed by the smallest margin. This year I really developed a taste for sport- unlike the other disciplines I find my improvement in it comes in leaps and bounds rather than tiny little baby steps- and I hope to do a lot more of it in 2012.
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Nope. :no: Not even been on an E2 this year[/color], although I have broadened the range of E1s I've done a bit- this time last year it was just easy but dangerous slabs. I'm sure I could have been doing E2s since about summer but I only ever climb trad with people who warm up on HSs and think HVS is the living end- in these circumstances it's (evidently) too easy to not push yourself. As last year I've done loads of good routes this year, but few have been enjoyable in terms of pushing myself.
Go to single pitch crags, second them up easier routes, warm up, climb loads of E2s and abseil down to strip the gear if it's going to be unpleasant to second. Works really well if partners can accept thinking outside of the box. And if they suck through their teeth and tell you that the E2s look really hard and are you sure etc etc, kick them in the cock.
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Cheers Fiend- this is the sort of 'get it done' mentality that so often deserts me at the crag. 2012 will be different.
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Cheers Fiend- this is the sort of 'get it done' mentality that so often deserts me at the crag. 2012 will be different.
Agree with Fiend, this held me back for a long time. I bouldered multiple 7A before leading E1. The best solution is to get out with people who try hard, don't mind falling and ideally climb harder than you!
One thing I used to do was go out to the crag and fanny about all day 'warming up' on HS/VS then by the time I felt psyched to try something harder it had invariably gone dark/started raining. What I try to do now is boulder about at the bottom of the crag/on the start of routes for half hour or so to warm up and then have a short rest before getting on what I want to try that day. Or at the most, one warm up route which I find tricky (this is probably advisable if you are planning on trying a pumpfest). This seems to be working fairly well for me. The other positive is that if you do your target route right at the start of the day, then you can up the ante and try something even harder!
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general:
- train properly and get super strong YES AND NO...
- stay injury free SADLY NOT BUT COULD BE WORSE
- keep this fucking faith despite everything FUCKING YES, THEY'LL NEVER GET ME!
specific:
- Font 8b COUGH....
- sport 8c DIDN'T EVEN TRY IT
I had a dream trip to UK though, that was far beyond my dreams!!!
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I had a dream trip to UK though, that was far beyond my dreams!!!
Lucy says "hi"
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My main aim for the year is to do enough climbing to develop an injury.
Given how dismally I have failed to achieve the humble goals I usually set I may as well set some ridiculously ambitious ones
Onsight Northern Exposure
Solo Echo Wall
Careless Torque ground up (and videoed)
Climb The Needle in Winter
Ski all the gullies grade II or easier on the Ben
Spend a month at a Cat skiing lodge
Surf Jaws and Mavericks
Cure Cancer
Well ticked all those :)
And amazingly didn't do enough climbing to injure myself, but stupidly managed to injure a finger while surfing. Incredible really.
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I had a dream trip to UK though, that was far beyond my dreams!!!
Lucy says "hi"
heheheheheheheh
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;D
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Realised I'd not posted these:
Aims for 2011
Bouldering: Tick more 7Bs. Tick at least one problem harder than 7B - Nope
Trad: E4 Not really as Wings isn't E4 but happy with progress for the amount of trad climbed
Sport: Onsight 7a, Redpoint 7c Nope
Winter: Tick some of the classic Vs from Cold Climbs Yes, well climbed Hadrians Ski at least two gullies on the tick list Yep!
General: Something Alpine Nope
Not the best climbing year but did get married which was pretty damn good!
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I've given myself a 10 day extension, partly since my christmas trip spanned the new year, but mainly because I like the colour green more than red.
Sport:
Reach a total of 25 8a onsights (so 15 more) Not quite, but close enough to be happy.
8a+ flash Yup
8a+ onsight Yup x2
3 or more 8a+ onsights ...which makes this a no.
5 or more 8a+ onsights + flashes (there's a theme here...) No
Rollito Sharma Yup
Mecca Get them knees out
3 or more 8b+ Too easy
8c Hell yeah
Bouldering:
8A that's actually a boulder (i.e. not a PE traverse) No. Still weak.
8A abroad Didn't really boulder abroad
Out of Stamina Too weak, and realised the connection section is orrible
Staminahumps Shikading
The Hulk + In Bulk + Sean's Yes to the hulk (well chuffed with this, marks a new level of finger strength for me) and sean's No to in bulk
Go to the Lakes, Northumberland, Western grit and Yorkshire grit Yes to the lakes No to the rest
Trad:
Go trad climbing again. Preferably in Pembroke. Epic fail
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I'll be disappointed if I don't do these
Sport - Free and Easy, Too Old to Be Bold, Obscene Toilet, Biological Need, The Ashes
Bouldering - Push to Prolapse, Demon Wall Roof, Acme Wall
Trad - Any E5; one long weekend to Scotland, Pembroke or Dorset; one or two Extreme Rock ticks
Should be possible with a lot of effort
Never (rarely) turn down an opportunity to go climbing
Sport - Any 8a DONE!
Bouldering - Any Font 7b; One of Handy Andy's, Fertile Delta, Big Marine, Sloping Beauty, Desert Island Arete start
Trad - Two of Supersonic, Left Wall (Brimham), Lime Hill, Roaring Silence, Central Sadness, Waves of Inspiration; 4 Extreme Rock ticks
Other - Winter Hill fell race; an Alps or sub alpine trip; go deepwater soloing (mainly Rainbow Bridge)
Let's reach for the stars
Sport - one of the Yorkshire triple crown
Trad - Headpoint a grit E7; the Cumbrian or The Cow
Alps - one of N face Badile, Saltbijchen West Ridge, Becco di Valsoreia, something on the Grand Cap
Oh yes, things ticking along nicely, next update due 2025
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lol. good rollover of aims.
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Good effort Teaboy - duly wadded.
Gives me hope that one day I might haul myself up an 8a (although this would require me to actually go sport climbing).
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Wadded! Would love to hear the story behind this one. A seven year siege?
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NIce one teaboy, seems this is the year to address your 2011 goals:
E4, Flakey Wall and Resurrection being the ultimate goals
;D