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Aims for 2011 (Read 90887 times)

Duma

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#175 Re: Aims for 2011
September 22, 2011, 06:30:03 pm
Andy - may well be on staffs grit on sun afternoon - drop me a text if you're around

Eddies

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#176 Re: Aims for 2011
September 22, 2011, 07:49:02 pm
Maintain 3-days a week at the wall, campus regularly and use the 45 more. Bag the long time problem ive still not done after 2 years! Not doing 3-days at the wall now as I got a girlfried in Feb but im actually training more! Finaly did the 2yr project on the woody

Tetris (on Sunday) Did that on the Sunday
The Fink s/s
Giza (Before its downgraded!)
Simple Simon
Stall s/s Not done these yet but there is still plenty of time for grit

Head out East more often Yup
A long sport climbing trip over easter to set me up for a decent season in the UK! Nope
Finishing off 'Sturgeon in the cuboard' Didnt try, but did my first 7c sport in the form of 'Too Old to Be bold'

I didnt bank on bouldering much on lime this summer as all but one of my buddies hate the stuff (Mainly The Leek Lads) but I spent most of the summer with Blacky and togther we had our most productive lime seasons to date. I bagged:
4 No. 7A's, 5 No. 7A+'s, 5 No. 7B's and 1 7C... which im very very happy with!


Here's to a dry, cold winter chaps  :great:

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#177 Re: Aims for 2011
September 23, 2011, 08:29:33 am
Andy - may well be on staffs grit on sun afternoon - drop me a text if you're around

Will do. I have a catch for Saturday now so I'm heading to ansteys on sat. Moving a car load of stuff to mum and dad's shouldn't take more than the morning so sunday afternoon sounds perfect

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#178 Re: Aims for 2011
September 23, 2011, 02:54:15 pm
Update:

Fuck the weather, fuck it up it's shitty pustulent arse with a cylindrical cheesegrater.

That is all.

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#179 Re: Aims for 2011
October 31, 2011, 10:36:56 am
A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
as per yyfy
Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélène (7a/7a+),  Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a), Opéra Tchétchène (7a+), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+), Sa Pelle au Logis (7a), Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard (7a+/b) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash)
Still got one more trip planned...
2nd trip yielded a lot of fun sub 7 plus Magic Bus (7b/+), Yogi (7b), Ah, Plus Facile! (apparently a much tighter eliminate than was required so 7a+/possibly 7b), La Baleine (7a/+), Lapin ou Canard (7a), Le Surplomb Feuilleté gauche (départ bas) (7a) - flash and Abdolobotomy (7a) - from the proper start!
So yeah aim ticked - and the list for 2012 is developing....


Go to St Bees
Oh yes - three days just past. Even with some pain in the elbows and a very dodgy back it was awesome
Tick list wasn't the biggest in world - a  nice haul of sies plus Headbanger (7a), Chipper's Wall (7a+), Kraken - both flavours (both 7a+ - though the RH finish seemed a good bit harder than the left), Dead Calm (7a+/b) and Black Hole SDS (7b in the guide...)
Must good back, so beautiful and some much more to do....  :w00t:
(oh and thanks to the St Bee's locals who showed us around on Friday evening)


Train sensibly without over doing it
So far so good
Back in the shed too (see below) - so power is coming back


Maybe get in some grit
Well almost - had three days in the peak and climbed 3 grit problems....
A couple of warm ups and a 7a flash - otherwise spent the time hunkering down out of the rain at the Tor and swearing at Weedkiller - first session went well second badly and the third was victorious - a thanks to the lovely locals who were pysched for me even though they were all on much harder things - did nothing to dispel the myth that al Sheffield climbers are mutant strong  ;D So aim completed? - just  - also had a nice little session at the Works which is always a bonus


Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
So far so good - thank you little man

Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
Sae the sports doctor...
Ultra sound showed tendon damage (both elbows) - but recovering well with physio exercises  :thumbsup:
The nerve problem cleared up with physio  :great:
Keeping the faith is proving little easier - just need to be clam and realise I ain't getting any younger....



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#180 Re: Aims for 2011
December 23, 2011, 05:56:11 pm
OK, I probably wont get any more in this year so time for my end of year report.

Hmm, been having quite a long think about this. I didnt really set any aims for 2010, but managed to consolidate on 7a and 7a+ and pinch my first 7b.. I seem to have quite a few projects - so in no particular order...

Yorkshire
Underhand  - possibly the extension if the first part goes early in the year.
A few 7a/7a+'s to mop up: Steves wall, Patta's arete, the traverse next to it.
Stu's roof LH - nearly got the stand done, think the first part may be a go-er
Possibly have a play on the Keel if I'm a good boy...

Start doing some more stuff at Caley! Why I dont go there so often I dont know...


Well underhand went :) First 7B+, so did Steves Wall (great problem) - no real progress on Stu's (reamed off half a nail trying) and made some good progress on the Keel (tickled the pocket) before summer came..


Peak
Lots of unfinished nearly business in the Peak...
At plantation, Green Traverse (without heels or mega dabs..), Deliverance (a long saga..), Deleverance traverse.. NTBTA
At Curbar, Guerilla Warfare/Early doors (was playing on these today.. surely a matter of time....?), Maybe a speculative look at Great White..
Beach Ball. So close grr...
West Side Story. Never tried it, but suspect it may suit my strengths (lank and no campusing..) may be one to work...
A 7 at Rubicon. (I suspect this is the hardest for me of anything I've suggested above!)
Weedkiller traverse at the Tor (I think its called that..)


Oops. Nothing here... though started working WSS with some eventual progress.. My summer lime season was awful. I started quite keenly, working a couple of 7's at Wubicon, but then just seemed to tweak elbows and had to chill out on the crimp and pull stuff (ie all lime~!)


Wales
Go to the cave again, and see whether a years worth of training has given me any more ability to get off the ground on anything with a 7 in it!
Cae Du. Have a proper trip there - camp by the beach and loaf around the boulders when the pollen is bad in the Summer!

Other bits and bobs..

A good few things at Harmers I was getting close to that I need to nail.. another one for the Summer.
The flakey face thing at Wimberry

No real progress on these either - Summer was quite wet, so little Harmers activity...

So a bit of a disappointing end to the year in terms of grads - having started really well. Summer (the log summer) didnt do me any favours... but I've not gone backwards since the spring, which is a good thing as at one point I thought I was! I also managed another 7B+ by proxy, as tracking was upgraded in the new guide ;)

7C is next years target (it was this years) and I think Underhand extension is a primo soft touch candidate for that - followed by the Keel.. but still getting out and enjoying it. I think next year I may just treat lime a something I have to do if everything else is log, instead of going for it....

Andy F

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#181 Re: Aims for 2011
December 23, 2011, 07:03:15 pm
Here goes:
8b. Having done a few more 8a+'s, 8b has to be next. Nope, but did find one I want to properly get stuck into next year
Boulder 7b+ - as for last year, just need to get on something and put the effort in. Nope, didn't get on one hence didn't put the effort in. Again

Andy F

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#182 Re: Aims for 2011
December 23, 2011, 07:04:34 pm
Oh, should have mentioned get an 8 outside The Dales. Success, but should have done at least 2 more. Next year.

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#183 Re: Aims for 2011
December 24, 2011, 10:14:50 am
Ooh er. I feel shy among all these 7s & 8s with my humble little middle aged punter goals. But anyway:

6b os at Arco at Easter Yes.
6c os: actually maybe not so humble, given that my best os on real rock last year was 6a, and felt hard No.
One or more good, big Alpine rock routes in the summer sort of, see below.
... and/or ...
One or more classic E2s on a Welsh Trad Tour in the summer maybe next year.


What went well
   Dolomites
   Frankenjura
   Boulder comps

What went less well
   Arco
   alpine multipitch sport

Dolomites
   My first climbing trip to the Ds only consisted of a long weekend in June in which we did one route and retreated from another. But I was hugely impressed and definitely want to go back.

Frankenjura
   A couple of long weekend visits in the autumn. Fantastic place. The bolt spacing is demanding compared to "normal" sport climbing areas like Arco, and I find steep climbing generally quite intimidating, but the rock is so fantastic and the area is so laid back and pleasant, I fell in love. Luckily it's just round the corner. Will be going back as regularly as possible.

Boulder comps
   Did five rounds of local boulder comps and found them great fun and a good training motivator, even though I'm generally more interested in routes. My fifty year old shoulders and elbows start to hurt rather quickly if I pull too much steep plastic though.

Arco
   I reached my winter training goal - 6b onsight in Arco at Easter - but in general the naive attempt to combine a family holiday with a proper climbing trip was a frustrating failure.

Alpine multipitch sport
   Was my major aim for the summer, and I did manage to get several trips in despite vicissitudes with weather and partners. But the routes I did turned out to be generally underwhelming, despite a couple of them being supposedly classics of the genre.

AIMS FOR 2012
Focus on areas/experiences rather than chasing numbers.
   Frankenjura as regularly as possible

And any two of the following:
   Dolomites again
   Oberreintal looks great: planned trip last June fell victim to weather & illness
   Swiss/Italian alpine granite: Handegg, Salbit, Mello ...
   Welsh trad nostalgia trip

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#184 Re: Aims for 2011
December 24, 2011, 06:14:22 pm
Having a dodgy finger and a broken foot, most of my goals have gone right out the window.... APART FROM ONE:

front lever pull up true to form, I've achieved a useless party trick goal already

DON'T GET INJURED I think that would count as an epic fail

Revised 2011 goals:

Walk ticked
rehab finger and foot ticked
Dream Of White Horses not tried it
sport 8a (ideally one that involves lots of campusing on jugs....) YYFY

Also managed my pre-breakage goal of 7C. Definitely a mixed year - got very strong and fit, but only used it to bimble about on increasingly dangerous grit things until I fucked a finger and then broke my foot just as the limestone dried out  >:( Returning to previous form from being unable to walk has been very satisfying though.

tommytwotone

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#185 Re: Aims for 2011
December 24, 2011, 08:33:15 pm
My big focus this year is going to be my massive weak link - finger strength. Am determined to do it properly, i.e. MTFU and do a decent, structured session of hangs and stuff once a week.

Fail! Started well but as I could have predicted went in too hard and ended up triggering shoulder tweak.


Assuming I can keep uninjured I'm hoping this will lead to scrubbing off a few of...

Trad

A few outstanding Peak ticks - definitely Long John's at Froggatt

Nope. Did get a good day at Froggatt but most of it assisting with an fallen climber before I got warmed up and then didn't really feel like a necky solo.


Sport


Whatever I can be bothered to try - probably nowt

Nowt. Though I did onsight what was probably a pretty soft indoor 7b.

 

Bouldering

More Cliff classix - Patta's, DWR (please!), Si's Arete
Get on more stuff at Caley Roadside this year
Peak CV omissions - Breakfast, Deliverance, Satin, Crescent Arete slabs to name a few
Tick more 7a problems on Font trip this year
Font 7b anywhere

Cliff mission has meant putting away a few of the classics but none of the above - though last weekend I did randomly get the heel to stick on DWR so will maybe a) get back there on New Year's Eve and b) give it another crack.

Did get some good stuff at Caley done on a nice day around Easter, nothing notable though.

Peak CV omissions remain omissions mainly as I spent more time on the lime over the summer.

Font 7as - yes. Did Sa Pelle Au Logis and Kalins De Kim.

Font 7b. Ha ha.


Other

Take more photos when out and about
Sort out my laptop so that I can edit video and make some non-quality bouldering videos
Run sub-45 min 10k in a proper race


Yep, more pics but still not really that much quality.
Did get laptop sorted for editing, need to get a decent camera to generate some footage now.
Sub 45 10k?! What was I thinking??



duncan

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#186 Re: Aims for 2011
December 24, 2011, 09:21:02 pm
Aims for 2011

Trad
The Whaler, Stackpole  yes - although inadvertently avoided 5' and the crux
A bunch of classic sea-cliff E3s a good selection, though Pembroke over-represented
America, Carn Gowla (the proper way)  Highpoint of the year
Wadi Rum trip  yes - and did the excellent Inshallah Factor
Comici - Cima Grande (or Rabada-Navarro - Naranjo de Bulnes) ticked the Comici
E5 (by June, onsight of course) FAIL

Sport
7a onsight, ideally Fiesta de los Biceps  a late sucess with Shakin' Like a Leaf  Didn't go near Fiesta
Try some proper sport-climbing (7b redpoint).  Still nothing harder than 7a, still trad. climbing on bolts

Bouldering
V5 / 6C on grit  FAIL! One day sat watching the rain from under T-crack

Other
Manage aches and pains to allow at least 9 months climbing about 9 months active climbing and managed something most weeks
Be a gooDAD, appease disapproving partner, stay in work (whilst all around get fired) and survive enough 2.5 hour drives to proper climbing to achieve the above Find out on 16th of Jan. if our tender for the course has been successful and consequently if I'm still in a job


My best year's climbing since the late 90s, some good adventures and a major goal achieved.  Notable success in staying mostly uninjured.  Minor sport-climbing and bouldering fails and I really should have just got on a Pembroke E5 in April or May.   What could have been the worst thing to happen?  Bruised ego...  I must at least attempt one in 2012.  More early season sport climbing (and a bit less adventuring) next year should help.

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#187 Re: Aims for 2011
December 24, 2011, 10:48:09 pm
Sport Chuffin: 8a+ (overnight sensation, GBH, supercool), climb 8a in another country ( so far got UK, france, spain, greece, thailand - although not 100% sure aout france), go to ceuse fit.
Trad Chuffin:  enjoy some classic E6s. don't get on anything too loose. E7 would be nice.
Bouldering: : do another font 7c. do more bouldering generally.
Real climbing: : 1-4-7.
Real Life: qualify as a physio. get a job.
Sport; aced that one, having done 3 8a+s, an 8b and flashed (UK) 7b+ this year. Out to El Chorro on the 27th....
Trad: fairly pleased with a handful of good E5s and plenty of E4s, since i only really got back into it in October. More trad next year!
Boudering: probable massive fail; only harder bouldering on limestone eliminates, so no idea of any numbers.
1-4-7  :no:
Qualified, tick  :smart: Voluntary job, tick, accepted on a talent pool list, tick. So not quite a job yet, but steps on the way. 

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#188 Re: Aims for 2011
December 24, 2011, 10:51:36 pm
Aims for 2011

Sport
7a onsight, ideally Fiesta de los Biceps  a late sucess with Shakin' Like a Leaf  Didn't go near Fiesta

if you want a partner for a Riglos mission next year you know who to call :2thumbsup:, or Pembroke E5s come to that.

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#189 Re: Aims for 2011
December 25, 2011, 08:59:03 pm
1. Keep in touch with friends and partners better and organise myself more proactively. - a bit, have kept in contact with some good partners and made some decent plans on the rare occasions the weather allows.

2. Get to somewhere interesting over Easter (Pedriza? Alscace?), and over summer (Scandinavia? South Africa? Hatun Machay?). - yes, got to Pedriza and to Sweden booked for July. Not mega-exotic, but inspiring and awesome.

3. Week long trip to Lewis - no, several days sea-cliffing in Skye - no, long weekend in Caithness - yes, long weekend in Mull over winter/spring - yes. In general - no, cunting terrible weather.

4. Get to Merionydd & Lleyn when weather is bolleaux in Scotland. - no.

5. Keep exploring cool places in Scotland. not really - Mull was cool and got to Loch Maree crags pre-midges, rest was fucked by awful weather

6. Explore more bouldering over winter: Torridon, Reiff, Skye, Mull, Inverness, Aberdeen, Trossachs, Northumberland, Carrock Fell, Gouther, St Bees. - a little bit, had some great bouldering days at Loch Buie (Mull), Ruthven Boulder (Inverness) and Clash (Aberdeen). Explored a teeny bit of Reiff and Glen Nevis in the 2 weeks of dry weather this autumn, also the County.

7. Climb a few E5s. - nowhere near, weather has been so awful since April that I've not managed to get onto inspiring harder routes, plus have slacked off stamina / fitness training a bit.

8. Climb a few F7a+s. - no, see above

9. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall. - no, have struggled with motivation totally and pretty depressed by weight and fitness issues.

10. Lose 1 stone via the above. - no struggled a lot with this.

Plus:

Fuck the weather, fuck it up it's shitty pustulent arse with a cylindrical cheesegrater.

Basically, first half of the year was good - Malta, Pedriza and especially Sweden were great, and Mull and Loch Maree just about made up for very limited dry weather.

The second half of the year was fucking shite. There weather has been utterly awful in Scotland since mid-July, with a solitary dry fortnight in fucking November, ruining trad exploration for the whole summer. Lack of continuous climbing has had a knock on effect on my health and fitness, making it harder to keep fighting against my physical and mental issues. The......mauve lining to this relentlessly driech cloud is it's highlighted the need to orientate my life around action and activity (and scenes that motivate that), and the opportunity to train at TCA which has saved me from total inertia.

Annus demi-horribilis.

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#190 Re: Aims for 2011
December 26, 2011, 12:44:19 am
Go to font at least twice
Nope- Injured

Go on a good climbing holiday somewhere new
Nope- Injured. Wait, take it back, pembroke counts.

Actually climb something in wales rather than just the beacon
Done, some great days out.

Lose some chub
Done. Still doing it.

Get fingers stronger
Yes, but then got injured.

Go sea level traversing
Done, couple times, great fun.

Get better at mtb
I'm just shit

"" ................kayaking
I'm just shit

"".................fell running
Yep. Had a good race. Then got injured.

"".................writing poetry
Struggle a bit this year, but a few worth re-reading. Will get back to it sometime.

Get a road bike
Nah, just got road tyres.

Finish my PGCE
Done.

Get a job
Nope. On the dole.

Find love
Think so.

Not much to ask right?
Well it was. It was a good year, I got a lot done. I've also gotten alright at salsa dancing and started a distance masters in philosophy. Fuck know what 2012 will bring or what my aims will be.

fried

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#191 Re: Aims for 2011
December 26, 2011, 10:01:51 am
Try not to spend most of the year injured. Not too bad, a few niggles, the end of the year being the worst.

Try to be able to climb more than once a week without my shoulders disintegrating.  Again twice a week is O.K but 3 is still difficult but doable.

Climb 6A in the forest. Done although one of the softest, Zip-zut at Isatis.

Do Cristalline at Rocher Fin a supposed 4+, which I keep falling off. Nope, got to crux twice, spied some Belgian out of the corner of my eye, fell off. If the weather dries out, hopefully in January

Get back to the U.K and do some classic grit stuff, Crescent arete etc. Did loads of easy stuff, but midges/ kids/ dogs stopped any attempt on Crescent arete or anything needing a bit of work.

Who knows maybe buy a rope and do something with that. Top-roped the sister's kids up Grotto slab, set up lots of belay but didn't climb anything.

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#192 Re: Aims for 2011
December 26, 2011, 10:44:27 am
After the massive success of 2010, most of my list rolls over.

Feels like much the same for me, but I've slimmed it down so my emotional welll-being for the year rests on an even smaller choice of routes...

1. Empire of the Sun (Ansteys), to be honest any 7b will be good but this one has too much time and effort invested not to go down eventually. - went down third session of the year with surprisingly little stress after running related weight loss
2. The Lynch (Ansteys), not at all my style of climbing but when I'm in top form now I can just do each individual move. If I get this it will be a reall YYFY. - nope, not even looked at it
3. Break on Through & Fay at Sharpnose. Both a step up above what I achieved this year. E4 onsight is something of a psychological barrier so either of these will be great. - nope only made it to Sharpnose once and climbed like a buffoon
4. Wraith (Sharpnose). 2nded it in the autumn so I know how far outside my comfort zone I need to get but it just might go...nope, see above...

& the big one, given I've pulled/torn pulleys each of  the last two years, is to stay uninjured for the year. Got to realise when to back off before something goes pop.... - so far so good but there's still 5 days to go

Hmmm, not an overwhelming performance. Hard to complete your goals when you don't get on the damn things. Climbing went to pot between the end of May and late November due to being away too much with work and family things going on whenever I was home. Must try harder.

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#193 Re: Aims for 2011
December 26, 2011, 11:47:26 am
make an over-ambitious, completely unrealistic tick-list that has no chance of being completed Complete Success

complete bloc pyramid with a few 7Bs, a 7B+, couple of 7Cs & Brad Pit -  Nowhere near, only managed 1 problem > 7a+ all year

Sport 8a  Nowhere near, struggled to do another 7c

OS a few longish 7a+s gave up trying 7a/+s early on as I knew I wasn't fit enough and there's only so many to go at in the peak

E4 trad very intermittent as usual, maxed out with a clutch if E2s (plus an E3 if anyone really thinks Black Hawk Bastion is worth that grade)

Climb on a proper big (by UK standards) cliff, multi-pitch away up in the mountains only one (mostly wet) trip in March a bit early, did Spiral Stairs & Flying Buttress on the Cromlech which was great fun but not quite what I was after

Retain the UKB FFL title YYFY

Use my camera more (stills and video) + buy some decent video editing software and make some half decent clips rather than the crap I've produced to date. use it more but still produce crap


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#194 Re: Aims for 2011
December 26, 2011, 04:45:28 pm
Not really many specific aims but it would be really nice to go up a sport grade as i haven't done this for six years. Would love to do something hard bouldering wise, maybe Pilgrim in Parisellas. Lots of hard work needed for these goals. Would also like to get back into onsighting and maybe do an onsighting trip somewhere soft  ;)
NOPE

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#195 Re: Aims for 2011
December 26, 2011, 04:47:09 pm
send incredible bulk first attempt...


  id like too do my first v8 by the end of the year if not atleast a v7

Fuckin check you out Mr hard V9  ;)

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#196 Re: Aims for 2011
December 26, 2011, 06:52:14 pm
1. Fix my rotator cuff - 1 week rest + 2 weeks of theraband so far
2. Climb at Si's birthday trip to Northumberland without pain! - Coming up Feb 11th-13th
3. A short 8A+ bloc - Probably Rotherham or Switzerland!
4. An 8a sport route - Will need to be something under 15 metres
5. Get to Switzerland in the van - Thinking April or August
6. Get to Hueco in Nov/Dec - Need to save some $
7. Hang the beastmaker 45's for more than 3 seconds - Unlikely!

1,2,5,7 TICK
3 - Shut down on shorter ones but managed another longer one in Cave (In Life), should have done Pilgrim too.
4. Did 1 day of Slate climbing and did some 6c sport routes, major fail!
6. Went to Font twice instead in Nov/Dec and ticked off Eclipse, Arrache Coeur, Big Boss and Fourmis Rouge, so some joy and finally stuck into the big 4

Could have been worse. Have avoided too many more injuries and just had the odd shoulder niggle and back strain this year which was a new one. Hopefully fighting fit in 2012 to kick on a bit before getting too old  :boxing:

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#197 Re: Aims for 2011
December 26, 2011, 09:52:23 pm
1. Be a good dad.
2. All the problems I failed to do last year.
3. Buy a new house and move.
3. construct an awesome board in garage in said house.
4. get strong.
5. see no. 2
1. Doing ok so far... WIP
2. Hmmmm little to no progress.
3. Tick
3. Tick.
4. Need to get on the afore mentioned a bit more...
5. Nope

Semi successful year, here's to getting on the board more and becoming a beast

JacobJacob

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#198 Re: Aims for 2011
December 26, 2011, 10:11:01 pm

7C Quite a few of these and even a couple of weird grit morpho 7C+ dynos, have since become sickeningly weak from sport climbing too much and would be happy to achieve this again next year...
8adefinitely got this one, climbed a total of 12 8as (one flash) and 4 8a+s, although going on a five month sport climbing trip probably helped a fair bit  :)
West Side Story (by next week dammit) yes, although have since been back and unable to repeat it, perhaps this should be another goal that carries over for next year...
Spring Voyage not been back on it.

take training seriously:
4/5 indoor sessions each week + outdoor at least once getting there
get good sleep fully failed this one...
eat well getting better
less booze. I seem to have cut down from little and often to lots occasionally... probably not an improvement...

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