[chris j]

3. Break on Through & Fay at Sharpnose. Both a step up above what I achieved this year. E4 onsight is something of a psychological barrier so either of these will be great.

Although neither of those is E4...

In that case I'll amend it to "knock out Fay & Break on Through early in the season and go on to Pembroke and onsight some soft-touch E4s..." 

Also MTFU and go do a proper route on Sanctuary Wall.

& in the realm of ego-boosting party tricks that are at odds with my don't get injured goal, manage a one-arm press-up in good form with my left arm (got a long way to go with that one...).

[Fiend]

Hah, neither of those is E4, but in opposite directions.....Fay would make a good first E5, it makes a route like Resurrection seem like the easy solid slab it is...

[shark]

Hah, neither of those is E4, but in opposite directions.....Fay would make a good first E5, it makes a route like Resurrection seem like the easy solid slab it is...

If you have sport climbing fitness those Sharpnose routes are so straightforward (not to mention well protected) that it feels like cheating. Same goes for a lot of Pembroke and Swanage.

Stu described it as trad climbing for sport climbers. I was thinking of starting a thread on classic routes that fit that mould. Perhaps you should so you know what routes to avoid   

[biscuit]

Sport

Tufa King Hard - asap as i am well cheesed off i didn't get it last year without grabbing the chains
7a outdoors - again asap
Puddle jumper
Rose Coronary
Consenting adults
Hartley Hare
Free and even easier
Yosemite wall
La Mangoustine Scatouflange
Bleep and Booster
Toxic rock
Bee Sting
Swarm
Wargames
Dreaming of Red Rocks
Elysium
Something stupid

7c pyramid with LTG of Comedy @ Kilnsey by end of season. Never been yet so there will be some routes to do there as well in 7a-7b+ grades.

Move to El Chorro and climb Lourdes in 2011

Boulder

7A outside by end of Feb
Picnic sarcastic by end of Mar ( not SS )
7B - not decided yet by end of str training phase ( end of April )

Feels good to write a tick list down. All i've got to do now is tick them.

I will also join power club as of next week.

[Rocksteady]

SPORT:

5 7a+s

Prophets of Rage 7b
Troll Team Special 7b
Empire of the Sun 7b

7b+ by the end of the year

BOULDERING:
Get out more, get on a Font 7A and do it.
Trackside
Gorilla Warfare

TRAD:
8 HVSs
4 E1s
2 E2s
1 E3

[chris j]

Hah, neither of those is E4, but in opposite directions.....

Ah-ha, thanks for making that clear . Lots of people seem to think everything there is overgraded so I figured that was what you meant. Though my arms only seem to last for 50ft of climbing (must go to places higher than Torbryan more often) so the last 20feet are always a struggle whether I'm on the Smile or Crooked Mile...

[AJM]

Stu described it as trad climbing for sport climbers. I was thinking of starting a thread on classic routes that fit that mould. Perhaps you should so you know what routes to avoid 

You should (assuming you haven't already and I've missed it). Be good to know the kinds of routes I should be getting on, compare them with the ones I actually do

Andy

[Hoseyb]

Due to the challenges of life with three children aged 2 and under, I'm only allowing myself one proper aim this year
http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2010/12/brewing-next-years-psyche.html

Very psyched for this big, actual quality, line

Currently aching from the start of the training treadmill

[SA Chris]

You are not a well person.

My main aim for the year is to do enough climbing to develop an injury.

Given how dismally I have failed to achieve the humble goals I usually set I may as well set some ridiculously ambitious ones

Onsight Northern Exposure
Solo Echo Wall
Careless Torque ground up (and videoed)
Climb The Needle in Winter
Ski all the gullies grade II or easier on the Ben
Spend a month at a Cat skiing lodge
Surf Jaws and Mavericks
Cure Cancer

[andy_e]

Not going to fix the world's economy and get rid of AIDS? Pfft, you're aiming low.

[Probes]

Get a dirty bird.

[slackline]

Get a dirty bird.

[Jaspersharpe]

1. Sub 4 minute mile.

2. 2hr 30 marathon.

[tomtom]

1. Touch rock - especially the luck based scrittle sort.

2. 2.3day drinking marathon.

 

[SA Chris]

Not going to fix the world's economy and get rid of AIDS? Pfft, you're aiming low.

Nah. Fuck em.

[tomtom]

Not going to fix the world's economy and get rid of AIDS? Pfft, you're aiming low.

Nah. Fuck em.

Tsk, we came up with the cure a couple of years ago but are waiting for the market to grow before releasing it.. clever eh!...

[SA Chris]

If you have acure already, then I won't bother. Save me two or three days of work.

[andy_e]

It only took me 20 mins and the back of an envelope

[Jaspersharpe]

I don't want to hear about that.

[Fatboy]

Get in to the groove and maintain a solid training program down at the wall.
Lose some weight - get down to 14st.
Boulder 7a.

[JamieG]

General

1. Eat less cake.
2. Stop spilling coffee on my (and anyone else's) bouldering mat.
3. Stop having chalk explosions when i fall off.
4. Finish PhD.
5. Take summer off to travel around europe climbing and sightseeing.

Specific

1. Boulder a few 7bs.
2. Do more trad. Need to get head in gear.

[Monolith]

1. Finish final semester of architecture and produce a final project to be supremely proud of.
2. Get job in practice
3. Pay off some debt
4. Immerse myself wholeheartedly in climbing when I graduate during spare time
5. Specifics - my boulder project ticked.
                  - resume route climbing and get better at it

6. Decide if I'm moving to Ticino to practice and really make this happen if it's going to.

[TheCarlisleKid]

Possibly being a bit ambitious here, but i'm going well at the moment so hey ho.

1- Redpoint an 8a when i'm in spain
2- Get some multipitch trad mileage under my belt. (would love to do the brandler-hasse!)
3- Bouldering- get my long LONG term project done.
-Hopefully do a carefully selected 8a (an easy one )

Get back on track with my running, get previous fitness back.

[lukeyboy]

This is going to be the year.

General aim - get out a lot, avon in the evenings and pembroke weekends. do some sport in cheddar. do more gritstone.

Specific aims:

1. Trad. Get steady on E3, onsight a short bouldery E5 (strapadictomy?). When I get to the crag don't fanny around on 'warm-ups', instead do a bit of bouldering then get on what I want to do.

2. Sport. Not all that bothered. Prob a week in spain or france end of march. Do a redpoint rather than just trying to flash everything. Hopefully tick a 7c by end of year. A little ambitious perhaps.

3. Bouldering. Keep power topped up in between route climbing. Peak in autumn. Try to go somewhere other than font (might not have the self control for this aim). Perhaps magic wood/ticino? Either way, climb 7B. Have a proper go at something hard rather than thinking I can't do it because I didn't flash it.

4. Route/boulder ticklist for 2011...


Mau mau, strapadictomy, traveller in time, smear test, ascent of man, left wall, vector, pull my daisy, german schoolgirl, track of the cat

Rubis sur l'ongle, noir desir, el poussif, hyper plomb, deliverance, C3PO, sulky little boys, jerry's traverse


If all those go down I'll be a happy man.

[Falling Down]

Some explanation


Climbing:

The pyramid concept works well for me and based on last years mediocre performance I reckon that the following are both stretching and achievable.

Redpoint: 7c Pyramid (1x7c, 2x7b+, 4x7b, 6x7a+, 7x7a, 12-156c+) Peak mainly, Tor, Cheedale and the Matlock crags.

Onsight: 7b Pyramid (1x7b, 3x7a+, 5x7a or E5, 8x6c/6c+ or E4/E5, 10x6b+ or E3) Spain + Wales for sport then High Tor, Chee Tor, Wales (Gogarth and Mountains) and Grit for Trad.

Boulder: 7B+ Pyramid (1x7B+, 2x7B, 4x7A+, 6x7A, 9x6C+, 12x6C) (Grit and Lime with a definate trip to the County in order this year)

Climbing training: Full set of encore/repeaters on the 45 degree slopers on my board + 25 continuous pullups on the large slots.

V Special goal: Long demanding rock route in the Alps, Dolomites or similar in July/August.

Strength, Power and Endurance Goals:

2.5 x Bodyweight Deadlift, 1.5 x Bodyweight Front Squat, 1 x Bodyweight Overhead Squat, 1.25 x Bodyweight Clean, 1 x Bodyweight Clean and Jerk, 1 x Bodyweight Benchpress, <7min 2k C2 Row; <19:30min 5k C2 row; <60min 15k C2 row

Get lots of sleep, drink less, eat well, read some good books, stay focussed.