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Aims for 2011 (Read 90304 times)

GCW

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Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 07:22:41 am
After the massive success of 2010, most of my list rolls over.  Although I've taken a couple out that just felt impossible and added some stuff nearer by.

1.  Buckstone Dyno
2.  Screaming Slave Woodwell
3.  Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS
4.  West Side Story
5.  Jerry's Arete (Bridestones)
6.  Sloping Beauty (Earl) 
7.  Underhand (Almscliff)  May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot.
8.  Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow)
9.  Red Wall Project  Shhh, esoteric venue.
10.  Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)

Sloper

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#1 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 08:56:20 am
Get down to 12 stone.
Get fit and strong.

The rest will just happen, or not.

gremlin

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#2 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 09:59:57 am
Get down to 12 stone.
Get fit and strong.

The rest will just happen, or not.

Ditto  :)

Andy F

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#3 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 10:12:29 am
Here goes:
8b. Having done a few more 8a+'s, 8b has to be next.
Boulder 7b+ - as for last year, just need to get on something and put the effort in.
« Last Edit: January 01, 2011, 10:31:23 am by Andy F »

lagerstarfish

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#4 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 10:14:35 am
7C

rich d

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#5 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 10:17:41 am
Boulder peak 7a.

Richie Crouch

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#6 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 11:08:12 am
1. Fix my rotator cuff - 1 week rest + 2 weeks of theraband so far
2. Climb at Si's birthday trip to Northumberland without pain! - Coming up Feb 11th-13th
2. A short 8A+ bloc - Probably Rotherham or Switzerland!
3. An 8a sport route - Will need to be something under 15 metres
4. Get to Switzerland in the van - Thinking April or August
5. Get to Hueco in Nov/Dec - Need to save some $
6. Hang the beastmaker 45's for more than 3 seconds - Unlikely!

chris j

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#7 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 11:38:49 am
After the massive success of 2010, most of my list rolls over.

Feels like much the same for me, but I've slimmed it down so my emotional welll-being for the year rests on an even smaller choice of routes...

1. Empire of the Sun (Ansteys), to be honest any 7b will be good but this one has too much time and effort invested not to go down eventually.
2. The Lynch (Ansteys), not at all my style of climbing but when I'm in top form now I can just do each individual move. If I get this it will be a reall YYFY.
3. Break on Through & Fay at Sharpnose. Both a step up above what I achieved this year. E4 onsight is something of a psychological barrier so either of these will be great.
4. Wraith (Sharpnose). 2nded it in the autumn so I know how far outside my comfort zone I need to get but it just might go...

& the big one, given I've pulled/torn pulleys each of  the last two years, is to stay uninjured for the year. Got to realise when to back off before something goes pop....   

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#8 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 11:40:31 am
Ooh er. I feel shy among all these 7s & 8s with my humble little middle aged punter goals. But anyway:

6b os at Arco at Easter
6c os: actually maybe not so humble, given that my best os on real rock last year was 6a, and felt hard
One or more good, big Alpine rock routes in the summer
... and/or ...
One or more classic E2s on a Welsh Trad Tour in the summer

dunnyg

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#9 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 12:15:59 pm
1. 7b - (probably nerve ending kilnsey)
2. 7A
3.7B
4. onsight 7a

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#10 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 01:02:49 pm
Maintain 3-days a week at the wall, campus regularly and use the 45 more. Bag the long time problem ive still not done after 2 years!

Tetris (on Sunday)
The Fink s/s
Giza (Before its downgraded!)
Simple Simon
Stall s/s

Head out East more often
A long sport climbing trip over easter to set me up for a decent season in the UK!
Finishing off 'Sturgeon in the cuboard' would be a good start

Here's to a year of fine weather and good conditions... Happy Crushing  :thumbsup:

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#11 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 01:03:21 pm
Sport:
 Reach a total of 25 8a onsights (so 15 more)
 8a+ flash
 8a+ onsight
 3 or more 8a+ onsights
 5 or more 8a+ onsights + flashes (there's a theme here...)
 Rollito Sharma
 Mecca
 3 or more 8b+
 8c


Bouldering:
 8A that's actually a boulder (i.e. not a PE traverse)
 8A abroad
 Out of Stamina
 Staminahumps
 The Hulk + In Bulk + Sean's
 Go to the Lakes, Northumberland, Western grit and Yorkshire grit

Trad:
Go trad climbing again. Preferably in Pembroke.

remus

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#12 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 02:03:01 pm
  • Old Friends, stanage
  • Resurrection, Dinas Chromlech
  • Yellow Wall, Gower
  • Kitten Claws and Mean Feat, carreg-y-barcud
  • Anything in the E3/4/5 bracket at lower sharpnose
  • Spend as much time as possible at Gogarth
  • A few 7s in font
  • Avoid injury before big summer climbing trip

Generally want to try and consolidate at E3/4 and tick the odd boulder problem along the way.

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#13 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 02:45:29 pm
Gogarth: The Moon (& katana & breaking the barrier at holyhead mtn)
Cromlech: Resurrection
Llanymynech: the Screaming Skull
LPT: Night glue
Peak lime: numerous 7b / 7b+
High Tor: Flaky wall
Peak grit: just do lots

Font trip
Sport climbing trip
Get to pembroke, kilnsey, and malham

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#14 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 04:10:52 pm
There are 13 routes and 13 boulders that I have been on and have yet to be ticked. Coincidence? It's an unlucky number....

BLOC:
Climb 7C this winter/spring
Brad Pit
Go to Font
7C+ next autumn/winter (The Wish?)
sort out as much unfinished business as possible

SPORT
Get route fit again:
7b+ onsight
7c flash or onsight
multiple 8a
maybe try for 8a+ (might as well be ambitious!)
sort out as much unfinished business as possible
Climb something at Raven Tor!
Go to Malham
Go to Buoux

TRAD
Do some easy fun multipitch. Gogarth?
Don't die.

TRAINING
Get strong on a board again ASAP, getting burned off sucks >:(
147 on small rungs
158 (massively ambitious!)
front lever pull up (also ambitious)
mono one armer 8) so I can be like Omar15

DON'T GET INJURED

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#15 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 04:19:49 pm
boulder 6c+/7a everytime i go out- do able....ish by Autumn
onsight e2 regularly- very do able by spring/summer time
onsight a few e3's - do able, especially in wales
onsight a e4- do able
headpoint a e5/e6-hopefully do able by autumn time.
climb alot more sport routes in summer!!! - easily do able.
climb french 7a- maybe, havent done much sport so dont know what a french 7a is like
as soon as it gets light enough get back out on the grit in the evenings and away from the horrible indoor wall- my pleasure to do this one
big trip up to cloggy- easy to do.
scotland trip for winter and summer climbing- easy enough to do.
TRAINING
stick to your plan- very do able
concentrate on slopers and your core- do able



Adam Lincoln

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#16 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 04:48:22 pm
1 Font 8b
2 Few more 8b+'s, maybe an 8c on north buttress
3 Flash/ground up E7.
4 Devils Apendix
5 Lord of the flies
6 Breach of the peace
7 Swis trip
8 Get some  more extreme rock ticks done
9 Get to cloggy for first time
10 Get to the lakes tradding more


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#17 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 05:02:23 pm
climb a 7a in font

do a 7a+ in font

do the reds at sabot that I havent done

zippys trav at planation

** top on face of business

do a sport route, probably rubicon roof

ride snowdon

ride in morzine

buy / lease a hill.... create a company & build a freeride area for MTB near sheffield

commute to work more on the road bike

mentally survive the NHS for another year


chris j

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#18 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 05:07:20 pm

climb french 7a- maybe, havent done much sport so dont know what a french 7a is like


If you're looking to onsight E4 and headpoint E5 you should find french 7a very do-able, you'll probably surprise yourself and redpoint your first in a session or two.

Nibile

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#19 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 05:08:17 pm
general:
- train properly and get super strong
- stay injury free
- keep this fucking faith despite everything
specific:
- Font 8b
- sport 8c

fried

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#20 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 05:25:19 pm
Try not to spend most of the year injured.
Try to be able to climb more than once a week without my shoulders disintegrating.
Climb 6A in the forest.
Do Cristalline at Rocher Fin a supposed 4+, which I keep falling off.
Get back to the U.K and do some classic grit stuff, Crescent arete etc.
Who knows maybe buy a rope and do something with that.
 

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#21 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 05:32:30 pm
by Spring :

7C
8a
West Side Story (by next week dammit)
Spring Voyage

take training seriously:
4/5 indoor sessions each week + outdoor at least once,
get good sleep,
eat well,
less booze.

nai

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#22 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 05:36:45 pm
make an over-ambitious, completely unrealistic tick-list that has no chance of being completed

complete bloc pyramid with a few 7Bs, a 7B+, couple of 7Cs (at least 1 this season hopefully) & Brad Pit - still my ultimate problem although Western Eyes looks the dogs wotsits at the grade too.

Sport 8a - several candidates depending on what dries where

OS a few longish 7a+s, a strange number maybe but I figure it's what would be necessary for trad ambitions:

E4, Flakey Wall and Resurrection being the ultimate goals

Climb on a proper big (by UK standards) cliff, multi-pitch away up in the mountains.

Retain the UKB FFL title

Use my camera more (stills and video) + buy some decent video editing software and make some half decent clips rather than the crap I've produced to date.

There are specific routes/problems within each discipline but I won't bore you with yet more lists, suffice to say I am inspired by lines/routes/moves rather than simply numbers.

Dr T

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#23 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 06:18:59 pm
A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest

Go to St Bees

Train sensibly without over doing it

Maybe get in some grit

Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010

Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....


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#24 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2011, 06:27:48 pm
climb without pain

do another 8a

get more beauty sleep



 

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