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Aims for 2011 (Read 90297 times)

Yossarian

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#200 Re: Aims for 2011
December 27, 2011, 08:38:04 am
1. Get a nice fat double page spread photograph and text in the only men's style magazine I would be seen dead with. (Tick...)

Yep, so did that already...

2. Become a father

And again, tick (quite an easy list so far...)

3. Win Masterchef (assuming small child fits around schedule)

Fuckers didn't even acknowledge my application

4. Gold standard for La Marmotte

Silver

5. Finish redecorating my bloody house.

Getting there - fuck me - for once I appear to have pretty much ticked the bloody thing.

Monolith

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#201 Re: Aims for 2011
December 27, 2011, 11:04:00 am
1. Finish final semester of architecture and produce a final project to be supremely proud of.
2. Get job in practice
3. Pay off some debt
4. Immerse myself wholeheartedly in climbing when I graduate during spare time
5. Specifics - my boulder project ticked.
                  - resume route climbing and get better at it

6. Decide if I'm moving to Ticino to practice and really make this happen if it's going to.

1. Tick to some extent
2.Tick
3.Tick and still ticking
4.Ticked then two A2 strains came about. Probably tried to change gear from neutral to fifth. Back in action albeit with sore scar tissue.
5. - Was coming along very nicely and thought it was going to get done as strains stopped play. Wanted to cry.
    - Didn't do a single route this year but routes are probably a distraction really.
6. An ongoing dream I guess.


More ticks than last year but would like some climbing ticks this year. Bests to all of you for the year's goals ahead  :)

ferret

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#202 Re: Aims for 2011
December 28, 2011, 12:36:29 am
Didn't really post this year but had left overs from 2010

climbing

climb more than 5 8a or above in a year Fail again
papillon in font Fail, not been to Font this year  :(
vague patatras in font Fail, not been to Font this year  :(
any beautiful 8a in leavenworth  Tick, FA of new uber roof link and did Chutzpah down the road at Index too, but dropped the last move on the Practitioner a bunch of times (add to aims for 2012)
sport climb 13a Tick, Blazing Buckets, Big Chief, Lake Tahoe
sport climb 8a Fail, Close but very unmotivated for sport climbing this year
xaviers roof in bishop, looks better than bad sex, too short to do it the mega cool press way, too much of a wuss to do it the shorties mega sharp crimp way Fail no trys this year, maybe next...
beautiful gecko in bishop Fail, but some good links add to 2012 list...
try and climb some 8a+ boulders Fail, not tried any other than beautiful gecko, 2012.....

Non Climbing

1st aim for 2011 will be complete mountain of insane paperwork and hoop jumping required to get married and live in the states  Tick, the biggest ever, married nearly a year now have green card job etc, syked on having a wife

GCW

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#203 Re: Aims for 2011
December 28, 2011, 09:40:27 am
After the massive success of 2010, most of my list rolls over.  Although I've taken a couple out that just felt impossible and added some stuff nearer by.

1.  Buckstone Dyno. Tried briefly with no success.
2.  Screaming Slave Woodwell. Irritatingly close, but no cigar.
3.  Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS.  Didn't try it.
4.  West Side Story. Didn't try it
5.  Jerry's Arete (Bridestones). Didn't try it, and it's wrecked anyway.
6.  Sloping Beauty (Earl). Some progress, but Earl hates me.
7.  Underhand (Almscliff)  May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot.  Never got a chance to go back.
8.  Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow). Didn't try it in 2011.
9.  Red Wall Project  tick!!  Did the main line, one harder problem to get back on and finish.
10.  Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge). Didn't try it.

Usual pathetic result.

gremlin

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#204 Re: Aims for 2011
December 28, 2011, 12:27:53 pm
Brownstones is my local bouldering venue, so my 2011 aims:

Digitation fail
Verdinand fail
Groundhog didn't even try
The pool traverse (Only if dry!  :lol: ) oh so close but...fail

Other venues:
Longridge - something around 6a/b ish. Any suggestions?

On the plus side, did Parr's crack with sit start! :2thumbsup:
Also, managed to shed a few pounds which is always useful.

So, not a great year in terms of goals but I'm climbing more consistently than last year and improved my power to weight ratio  so roll on 2012.

Hopefully my new finger board will help too.

Stabbsy

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#205 Re: Aims for 2011
December 28, 2011, 03:00:50 pm
Started 2011 with the vague idea of trying to do 100 routes of F7a or above, mainly to stop me getting stuck projecting on stuff that was too hard for me, and trying to get out trad climbing more than previous years.

Achieved the 100 F7s by mid-December thanks to European trips (over 60 of the 100 were abroad) and still managed to tick a few harder (for me) things even though volume was the main aim. Also got a bit more trad done and ticked a few things off the long-term wishlist (Get Some In, Crimson Cruiser).

No excuses for 2012 now....

lukeyboy

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#206 Re: Aims for 2011
December 30, 2011, 02:09:49 pm
This is going to be the year.

General aim - get out a lot, avon in the evenings and pembroke weekends. do some sport in cheddar. do more gritstone.

Specific aims:

1. Trad. Get steady on E3, onsight a short bouldery E5 (strapadictomy?). When I get to the crag don't fanny around on 'warm-ups', instead do a bit of bouldering then get on what I want to do.

Not done all that much trad this year, but am feeling steady on E3 now. No E5 though did a token (dubious?) E4 onsight in May.

2. Sport. Not all that bothered. Prob a week in spain or france end of march. Do a redpoint rather than just trying to flash everything. Hopefully tick a 7c by end of year. A little ambitious perhaps.

Turned out to be a fairly sport-centric year. Had done bits in Cheddar previously but really discovered it this year. Exceeded expectations and did a couple of 7c's, one in a session and the other in a couple of goes. Also onsighting 7a fairly consistently. Very happy with this.


3. Bouldering. Keep power topped up in between route climbing. Peak in autumn. Try to go somewhere other than font (might not have the self control for this aim). Perhaps magic wood/ticino? Either way, climb 7B. Have a proper go at something hard rather than thinking I can't do it because I didn't flash it.

No 7B. Not really been on the grit either. Went to Font in March and did a few 7A's, one 7A+ and went to some new areas which was good. Not been on any proper bouldering trips since.

4. Route/boulder ticklist for 2011...

Mau mau, strapadictomy, traveller in time, smear test, ascent of man, left wall, vector, pull my daisy, german schoolgirl, track of the cat

Rubis sur l'ongle, noir desir, el poussif, hyper plomb, deliverance, C3PO, sulky little boys, jerry's traverse

If all those go down I'll be a happy man.

Only a couple, haven't been on grit much and so haven't got on many of these. Tried Rubis (quite close) & Noir Desir (too hot/too hard) in font.


Summary - Pretty happy with this year. Sport level boosted which will hopefully carry through to Trad. Need to power up for bouldering, feel better but weaker than in Spring 2011. Font in Feb should provide some extra motivation. Bring on 2012...



tomtom

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#207 Re: Aims for 2011
December 30, 2011, 05:42:09 pm
any beautiful 8a in leavenworth  Tick, FA of new uber roof link and did Chutzpah down the road at Index too, but dropped the last move on the Practitioner a bunch of times (add to aims for 2012)

I dropped in at Leavenworth for a day and a half over the summer - lovely place-  great rock :) love to get back some day...

cheque

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#208 Re: Aims for 2011
December 30, 2011, 06:12:34 pm
First the good:

Pass driving test

Yep. Passed 11 days in.  :2thumbsup:

Save money for USA trip

Yep. No concrete plan for USA trip though. Still I've been abroad once with cash I've saved and saving is still going well. :greed:

Stay injury-free!

Yep. :smart:

Now the bad:

Trad E2

Nope. :no: Not even been on an E2 this year
, although I have broadened the range of E1s I've done a bit- this time last year it was just easy but dangerous slabs. I'm sure I could have been doing E2s since about summer but I only ever  climb trad with people who warm up on HSs and think HVS is the living end-  in these circumstances it's (evidently) too easy to not push yourself. As last year I've done loads of good routes this year, but few have been enjoyable in terms of pushing myself.

Boulder 7a

Not even close. 6b+ still takes me a few sessions and many 6bs still feel improbable.  :look: Whether this is due to only ever going bouldering on my own and the resultant one pad/ no spotter/ no encouragement situation that results or just my lack of bouldering psyche and ability is debatable.

Sport 7a

Nope. BUT, I flashed 6c in October and have still never had more than 3 goes on a route so this feels like the goal I missed by the smallest margin. This year I really developed a taste for sport- unlike the other disciplines I find my improvement in it comes in leaps and bounds rather than tiny little baby steps-  and I hope to do a lot more of it in 2012.

Fiend

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#209 Re: Aims for 2011
December 30, 2011, 08:32:08 pm
Nope. :no: Not even been on an E2 this year[/color], although I have broadened the range of E1s I've done a bit- this time last year it was just easy but dangerous slabs. I'm sure I could have been doing E2s since about summer but I only ever  climb trad with people who warm up on HSs and think HVS is the living end-  in these circumstances it's (evidently) too easy to not push yourself. As last year I've done loads of good routes this year, but few have been enjoyable in terms of pushing myself.

Go to single pitch crags, second them up easier routes, warm up, climb loads of E2s and abseil down to strip the gear if it's going to be unpleasant to second. Works really well if partners can accept thinking outside of the box. And if they suck through their teeth and tell you that the E2s look really hard and are you sure etc etc, kick them in the cock.

cheque

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#210 Re: Aims for 2011
December 30, 2011, 09:27:51 pm
Cheers Fiend- this is the sort of 'get it done' mentality that so often deserts me at the crag. 2012 will be different.

lukeyboy

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#211 Re: Aims for 2011
December 31, 2011, 11:07:22 am
Cheers Fiend- this is the sort of 'get it done' mentality that so often deserts me at the crag. 2012 will be different.

Agree with Fiend, this held me back for a long time. I bouldered multiple 7A before leading E1. The best solution is to get out with people who try hard, don't mind falling and ideally climb harder than you!

One thing I used to do was go out to the crag and fanny about all day 'warming up' on HS/VS then by the time I felt psyched to try something harder it had invariably gone dark/started raining. What I try to do now is boulder about at the bottom of the crag/on the start of routes for half hour or so to warm up and then have a short rest before getting on what I want to try that day. Or at the most, one warm up route which I find tricky (this is probably advisable if you are planning on trying a pumpfest). This seems to be working fairly well for me. The other positive is that if you do your target route right at the start of the day, then you can up the ante and try something even harder!

Nibile

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#212 Re: Aims for 2011
December 31, 2011, 06:14:40 pm
general:
- train properly and get super strong YES AND NO...
- stay injury free SADLY NOT BUT COULD BE WORSE
- keep this fucking faith despite everything FUCKING YES, THEY'LL NEVER GET ME!
specific:
- Font 8b COUGH....
- sport 8c DIDN'T EVEN TRY IT

I had a dream trip to UK though, that was far beyond my dreams!!!

account_inactive

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#213 Why the fuck do I h
January 01, 2012, 01:48:38 am

I had a dream trip to UK though, that was far beyond my dreams!!!


Lucy says "hi"

SA Chris

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#214 Re: Aims for 2011
January 01, 2012, 06:48:20 am

My main aim for the year is to do enough climbing to develop an injury.

Given how dismally I have failed to achieve the humble goals I usually set I may as well set some ridiculously ambitious ones

Onsight Northern Exposure
Solo Echo Wall
Careless Torque ground up (and videoed)
Climb The Needle in Winter
Ski all the gullies grade II or easier on the Ben
Spend a month at a Cat skiing lodge
Surf Jaws and Mavericks
Cure Cancer

Well ticked all those :)

And amazingly didn't do enough climbing to injure myself, but stupidly managed to injure a finger while surfing. Incredible really.

saltbeef

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#215 Re: Why the fuck do I h
January 01, 2012, 05:32:43 pm

I had a dream trip to UK though, that was far beyond my dreams!!!


Lucy says "hi"

heheheheheheheh

Nibile

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#216 Re: Aims for 2011
January 02, 2012, 10:06:45 am
 ;D

galpinos

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#217 Re: Aims for 2011
January 03, 2012, 09:30:45 am
Realised I'd not posted these:

Aims for 2011

Bouldering: Tick more 7Bs. Tick at least one problem harder than 7B - Nope
Trad: E4 Not really as Wings isn't E4 but happy with progress for the amount of trad climbed
Sport: Onsight 7a, Redpoint 7c Nope
Winter: Tick some of the classic Vs from Cold Climbs Yes, well climbed Hadrians Ski at least two gullies on the tick list Yep!

General: Something Alpine Nope
Not the best climbing year but did get married which was pretty damn good!

abarro81

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#218 Re: Aims for 2011
January 11, 2012, 09:17:18 pm
I've given myself a 10 day extension, partly since my christmas trip spanned the new year, but mainly because I like the colour green more than red.

Sport:
 Reach a total of 25 8a onsights (so 15 more) Not quite, but close enough to be happy.
 8a+ flash Yup
 8a+ onsight Yup x2
 3 or more 8a+ onsights ...which makes this a no.
 5 or more 8a+ onsights + flashes (there's a theme here...) No
 Rollito Sharma Yup
 Mecca Get them knees out
 3 or more 8b+ Too easy
 8c Hell yeah


Bouldering:
 8A that's actually a boulder (i.e. not a PE traverse) No. Still weak.
 8A abroad Didn't really boulder abroad
 Out of Stamina Too weak, and realised the connection section is orrible
 Staminahumps Shikading
 The Hulk + In Bulk + Sean's Yes to the hulk (well chuffed with this, marks a new level of finger strength for me) and sean's No to in bulk
 Go to the Lakes, Northumberland, Western grit and Yorkshire grit Yes to the lakes No to the rest

Trad:
Go trad climbing again. Preferably in Pembroke. Epic fail

Teaboy

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#219 Re: Aims for 2011
July 25, 2018, 11:52:48 am
I'll be disappointed if I don't do these
Sport - Free and Easy, Too Old to Be Bold, Obscene Toilet, Biological Need, The Ashes
Bouldering - Push to Prolapse, Demon Wall Roof, Acme Wall
Trad - Any E5; one long weekend to Scotland, Pembroke or Dorset; one or two Extreme Rock ticks

Should be possible with a lot of effort
Never (rarely) turn down an opportunity to go climbing
Sport - Any 8a DONE!
Bouldering - Any Font 7b; One of Handy Andy's, Fertile Delta, Big Marine, Sloping Beauty, Desert Island Arete start
Trad - Two of Supersonic, Left Wall (Brimham), Lime Hill, Roaring Silence, Central Sadness, Waves of Inspiration; 4 Extreme Rock ticks
Other  - Winter Hill fell race; an Alps or sub alpine trip; go deepwater soloing (mainly Rainbow Bridge)

Let's reach for the stars
Sport - one of the Yorkshire triple crown
Trad - Headpoint a grit E7; the Cumbrian or The Cow
Alps - one of N face Badile, Saltbijchen West Ridge, Becco di Valsoreia, something on the Grand Cap

Oh yes, things ticking along nicely, next update due 2025

SA Chris

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#220 Re: Aims for 2011
July 26, 2018, 02:52:50 pm
lol. good rollover of aims.

Fiend

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#222 Re: Aims for 2011
July 26, 2018, 11:17:15 pm
Good effort Teaboy - duly wadded.

Gives me hope that one day I might haul myself up an 8a (although this would require me to actually go sport climbing).

Murph

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#223 Re: Aims for 2011
July 27, 2018, 08:25:50 am
Wadded! Would love to hear the story behind this one. A seven year siege?

nai

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#224 Re: Aims for 2011
July 27, 2018, 09:10:34 am
NIce one teaboy, seems this is the year to address your 2011 goals:

E4, Flakey Wall and Resurrection being the ultimate goals

 ;D

 

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