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Aims for 2011 (Read 90720 times)

Serpico

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#125 Re: Aims for 2011
February 08, 2011, 02:04:13 pm

Longridge - something around 6a/b ish. Any suggestions?

Vertical or horizontal?
Vertical - Lots to go at, start with Seven A
Horizontal - The Traverse Of The Gods :whistle:

gremlin

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#126 Re: Aims for 2011
February 08, 2011, 02:16:04 pm
Whilst it's a great line, I don't think Groundhog is a giveaway at the grade!

Agreed. I've seen better climbers than me struggle with it and I can't see me being able to attempt it until I've got a full summer of outdoor bouldering under my belt.
Having said that, it's always good to have some thing to aspire to!

andy_e

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#127 Re: Aims for 2011
February 08, 2011, 05:22:11 pm
Another one- do a "Jerry's" problem - Jerry's Arete, Jerry's Traverse, Jerry's Problem, etc.

nai

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#128 Re: Aims for 2011
February 08, 2011, 05:34:06 pm
how about a Jerry-'atrick - Arete, Traverse, Roof?

Another aim of mine - have more dry days than days with alcohol. It was going well but after a couple poor long-weekends it's currently 19-19.

 

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#129 Re: Aims for 2011
February 08, 2011, 05:36:02 pm
Another one- do a "Jerry's" problem - Jerry's Arete, Jerry's Traverse, Jerry's Problem, etc.

Which Jerry though?

mrjonathanr

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#130 Re: Aims for 2011
February 08, 2011, 09:34:05 pm

galpinos

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#131 Re: Aims for 2011
February 09, 2011, 08:32:57 am

I don't remember Jerry being quite that camp.

galpinos

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#132 Re: Aims for 2011
February 28, 2011, 04:28:55 pm
Realised I'd not posted these:

Aims for 2011

Bouldering: Tick more 7Bs. Tick at least one problem harder than 7B
Trad: E4
Sport: Onsight 7a, Redpoint 7c
Winter: Tick some of the classic Vs from Cold Climbs. Ski at least two gullies on the tick list

General: Something Alpine

As per YYFY!

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.2300.html

Dr T

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#133 Re: Aims for 2011
February 28, 2011, 06:26:41 pm
A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
as per yyfy
Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélène (7a/7a+),  Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a), Opéra Tchétchène (7a+), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+), Sa Pelle au Logis (7a), Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard (7a+/b) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash)
Still got one more trip planned...


Go to St Bees
Still in the development stage

Train sensibly without over doing it
So far so good

Maybe get in some grit
Not yet

Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
So far so good - thank you little man

Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
So far so good

andy_e

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#134 Re: Aims for 2011
February 28, 2011, 08:38:38 pm
Another one- do a "Jerry's" problem - Jerry's Arete, Jerry's Traverse, Jerry's Problem, etc.

Which Gerry though?


Eddies

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#135 Re: Aims for 2011
February 28, 2011, 09:23:34 pm
Another one- do a "Jerry's" problem - Jerry's Arete, Jerry's Traverse, Jerry's Problem, etc.

Which Jerry though?


tomtom

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#136 Re: Aims for 2011
February 28, 2011, 09:32:36 pm
What a combo... who'd have thought...


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#137 Re: Aims for 2011
February 28, 2011, 10:03:19 pm
I didn't make any aims last year as I thought it'd be a bad one, and then I met a load of aims I didn't have!  But here goes...

Get a bunch of F7as done.  Work 7a+ or maybe even a 7b.  If I can get to Siurana in October, I'd really like to do Bistec de Biceps...

Try to onsight some more E2s.  Quietus would be nice once I'm in the groove.  And, I'll say it...maybe an E3 or two.  But not some bold grit slab.  Something big and 5c but well-protected...not decided what yet!

I'm not sure I'll make these but as my sport and bouldering grades have both gone up two points in the last 12 months I'm feeling optimistic... :) :-\

205Chris

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#138 Re: Aims for 2011
February 28, 2011, 10:12:30 pm

underground

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#139 Re: Aims for 2011
March 01, 2011, 10:12:14 am
Bit late to this but I do have an aim for the year, to keep climbing and try hard. Also to make the Beastmaker worth the cost.

No specific grades or problems in mind but Font 6 would be good to start

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#140 Re: Aims for 2011
March 08, 2011, 01:46:48 am
Very late on the draw but, here are some aims for 2011:

V7's on at least two different rock types (High Plains Drifter @ the Buttermilk, Morning Dove White at the Happies come to mind...)

V6's on at least four different rock types

Stay injury free

Get down to a fighting weight of 185# (Currently 191)

Duma

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#141 Re: Aims for 2011
March 21, 2011, 04:54:19 am
Bit late but hey...
Westcountry:
Carnage
Supercede
Ache Ball
Colorado Dreaming
Up north:
Terrace
Western Eyes
Alliance
Brass Monkeys
Boyager
Flatworld
France:
Noir Desir
Formis Rouge
Big Boss
Katioushka
I comme Irun
Mickey Mousse
 :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

Muenchener

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#142 Re: Aims for 2011
April 09, 2011, 02:40:49 pm
6b os at Arco at Easter

I just finished my last hard training week before taking it easy next week then heading off to Arco for Easter. Have been reflecting on how my first attempt at a winter of serious training in Climbing Career 2.0 went:

JANUARY-FEBRUARY: STRENGTH THROUGH BOULDERING

Complete Thalkirchen red & green circuits
Done. Completing two hard-for-me circuits at my local wall turned out to be a good goal. It forced me to work on weaknesses and persist on harder things than I would otherwise have finished. The last three problems cost me a session or more each; if they hadn't been part of a public written goal I probably would have given up and done something more congenial instead.

Perform respectably in a bouldering competition
This went well too. In the first round I comfortably beat my target score. I also identified a specific weakness - mental shakiness on higher finishes - addressed it through targeted training - lots of jumping off - and as a result performed significantly better in that respect, and slightly better overall, in the second round. yyfy, go me etc.
And in the context of the main goal - getting better at onsighting routes - flashing more problems and feeling more comfortable higher off the mats are important gains.
(Third round is in May, after I spend several weeks systematically getting weak on routes. We'll see what happens)

MARCH: POWER ENDURANCE, PREPARATION FOR ROUTES
This didn't feel like it went nearly as well. Frau M and I were both away on business trips several times, which made it difficult to find regular partners for route training sessions. I bouldered regularly, but I feel my problems on routes are mostly head at the moment, so 4x4s and traverses are a poor subsititute for going upwards.

Take 200 practice falls
This number turned out to be overambitious. Only reached three figures by counting boulder highballl jump-off training (see above). Actual falls on an actual rope about fifty. Still, this is the first time I've done any consistent & repeated falling practice. Need to keep it up.

Onsight 6a on real rock: Mittlere Weisse Wand
Nope. My one day out so far showed me - not for the first time - that diligent winter training does not automatically lead to cruising the previous year's best grade first time out. Accentuate the positive: I took the fall instead of just lamely backing off, and now I have a stunning Frankenjura classic as my redpoint project.

Redpoint 6b+ indoors
Nearly. Redpointed 6b

And in three weeks I'll know if any of it actually worked.

Wil

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#143 Re: Aims for 2011
April 09, 2011, 09:45:18 pm
Sounds like you're making progress there Muenchener - once you start getting out with more mileage on real rock you'll start to tune in to it, you're probably closer than you think!

I didn't set any aims on this before, but having landed on my head off what should have been an innocuous warmup my year has been reset somewhat. It seems a good point to set those goals though, but I have a few weeks recovery before I can get started (and a new plate in my eye socket).

So, the year started well - in January I got my first E5 onsight, the product of lots of bouldering over the winter making me a little stronger. Goals for the rest of the year:

Onsight E4 consistently - should be achievable, but remains to be seen where my head is at (pun intended).
Onsight a proper E5 - I did Track of the Cat in January, which is soft and my style, and possible to get lucky on. So I'd like to add a proper route, I'll be hoping to get mileage in at High Tor, since its my local and that seems a good spot to try one.
Redpoint F7c - might be a step too far, I've only ticked 7b before, but I've not been climbing sport for long and never spent long on a project. Cry of Despair is a candidate if it dries.
Sport in Yorkshire - only had one visit a few years ago and ticked nothing!
Get at least 3 weekends in Pembroke - why do I climb anywhere else?

I've also set up my lifetime wishlist on my UKC logbook, 50 UK routes that inspire me across the grade range to encourage me to travel to new places and focus on specific goals. There are a few that might never get done, but most are achievable.

Dr T

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#144 Re: Aims for 2011
April 18, 2011, 10:30:30 am
A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
as per yyfy
Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélène (7a/7a+),  Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a), Opéra Tchétchène (7a+), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+), Sa Pelle au Logis (7a), Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard (7a+/b) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash)
Still got one more trip planned...
2nd trip yielded a lot of fun sub 7 plus Magic Bus (7b/+), Yogi (7b), Ah, Plus Facile! 9apparently a much tighter eliminate than was required so 7a+/possibly 7b), La Baleine (7a/+), Lapin ou Canard (7a), Le Surplomb Feuilleté gauche (départ bas) (7a) - flash and Abdolobotomy (7a) - from the proper start!
So yeah aim ticked - and the list for 2012 is developing....


Go to St Bees
Still in the development stage

Train sensibly without over doing it
So far so good

Maybe get in some grit
Not yet

Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
So far so good - thank you little man

Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
So far so good

dunnyg

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#145 Re: Aims for 2011
May 08, 2011, 11:44:55 am
Aims were

1. 7b (probably nerve ending kilnsey)  - done, though not nerve ending, some route at Loja
2. 7A                 - Done
3.7B                  - Done
4. onsight 7a      - Flashed a couple, just need a proper onsight.



New aims:

1. Some more 7b's (got to do nerver ending if i can catch it dry!)
2. A 7C before the end of the year
3. Get a rope on for some trad and push it above gear
4. Climb long chimney.......
5. Onsight some 7a!


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#146 Re: Aims for 2011
May 08, 2011, 11:52:56 am
Ah, you have reminded me of this.

After the massive success of 2010, most of my list rolls over.  Although I've taken a couple out that just felt impossible and added some stuff nearer by.

1.  Buckstone Dyno- Not far off, but a miss......
2.  Screaming Slave Woodwell  Stupidly close before, seem further away again?!?!
3.  Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS  Not been
4.  West Side Story  Not been
5.  Jerry's Arete (Bridestones)  Not been
6.  Sloping Beauty (Earl)  Not been
7.  Underhand (Almscliff)  May have to exchange this for The Keel as my finger doesn't like the slot.  Not been
8.  Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow)  Not been
9.  Red Wall Project  Shhh, esoteric venue.  Yes!!  But still a handful of other esoteric things to finish off
10.  Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)  Not been

tomtom

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#147 Re: Aims for 2011
May 08, 2011, 12:00:28 pm
Yes - a timely reminder...

Hmm, been having quite a long think about this. I didnt really set any aims for 2010, but managed to consolidate on 7a and 7a+ and pinch my first 7b.. I seem to have quite a few projects - so in no particular order...

Yorkshire
Underhand  - possibly the extension if the first part goes early in the year.   Done (not extension)
A few 7a/7a+'s to mop up: Steves wall, Patta's arete, the traverse next to it. Got steves wall the other week - others waiting..
Stu's roof LH - nearly got the stand done, think the first part may be a go-er Makign progress, but split tip and nail on the crimps put me off..
Possibly have a play on the Keel if I'm a good boy...  Making some progress on the keel.. new clif project

Start doing some more stuff at Caley! Why I dont go there so often I dont know...

Peak
Lots of unfinished nearly business in the Peak...
At plantation, Green Traverse (without heels or mega dabs..), Deliverance (a long saga..), Deleverance traverse.. NTBTA no no and no... though green traverse sans heels is getting there..
At Curbar, Guerilla Warfare/Early doors (was playing on these today.. surely a matter of time....?), Maybe a speculative look at Great White.. Done neither - but did Seans Arete (7B aims done!)
Beach Ball. So close grr...
West Side Story. Never tried it, but suspect it may suit my strengths (lank and no campusing..) may be one to work... had a play - one to work..
A 7 at Rubicon. (I suspect this is the hardest for me of anything I've suggested above!) More chance of seeing the Popes cock..
Weedkiller traverse at the Tor (I think its called that..) not been

Wales
Go to the cave again, and see whether a years worth of training has given me any more ability to get off the ground on anything with a 7 in it! Been, been shut down :)
Cae Du. Have a proper trip there - camp by the beach and loaf around the boulders when the pollen is bad in the Summer!

Other bits and bobs..

A good few things at Harmers I was getting close to that I need to nail.. another one for the Summer. Making some good progress at Harmers
The flakey face thing at Wimberry

Not bad so far.. got another 7B and first 7B+...

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#148 Re: Aims for 2011
May 08, 2011, 12:09:56 pm

Longridge - something around 6a/b ish. Any suggestions?

Vertical or horizontal?
Vertical - Lots to go at, start with Seven A
Horizontal - The Traverse Of The Gods :whistle:

Well here's the first one off the list!
Seven A (with a sit start)  :2thumbsup:

Have you another one for me Serpico? I'm still working on the TOTG!

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#149 Re: Aims for 2011
May 08, 2011, 01:14:58 pm
Having a dodgy finger and a broken foot, most of my goals have gone right out the window.... APART FROM ONE:

front lever pull up true to form, I've achieved a useless party trick goal already

DON'T GET INJURED I think that would count as an epic fail

Revised 2011 goals:

Walk
rehab finger and foot
Dream Of White Horses
sport 8a (ideally one that involves lots of campusing on jugs....)

 

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