[Dr T]

A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
as per yyfy
Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélène (7a/7a+),  Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a), Opéra Tchétchène (7a+), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+), Sa Pelle au Logis (7a), Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard (7a+/b) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash)
Still got one more trip planned...
2nd trip yielded a lot of fun sub 7 plus Magic Bus (7b/+), Yogi (7b), Ah, Plus Facile! 9apparently a much tighter eliminate than was required so 7a+/possibly 7b), La Baleine (7a/+), Lapin ou Canard (7a), Le Surplomb Feuilleté gauche (départ bas) (7a) - flash and Abdolobotomy (7a) - from the proper start!
So yeah aim ticked - and the list for 2012 is developing....

Go to St Bees
Still in the development stage
Development stage on hold 'til the elbow is sorted - see below

Train sensibly without over doing it
So far so good

Maybe get in some grit
Not yet

Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
So far so good - thank you little man

Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
Hmmm seeing the sport's doctor on Saturday ...
Going to get an ultra sound on this damned elbow - seems there's both tendon damage and a nerve problem 
Keeping the faith is proving little difficult right now 

[TobyD]

Sport Chuffin: 8a+ (overnight sensation, GBH, supercool), climb 8a in another country ( so far got UK, france, spain, greece, thailand - although not 100% sure aout france), go to ceuse fit.
Trad Chuffin:  enjoy some classic E6s. don't get on anything too loose. E7 would be nice.
Bouldering: : do another font 7c. do more bouldering generally.
Real climbing: : 1-4-7.
Real Life: qualify as a physio. get a job.

all going well in sport... trad; well, not done anything too loose, with the cunning strategy of not going trad climbing, other than 3 days in pembroke. No bouldering, due to being in SE Asia when it was cold, and being mildly obsessed with Yorkshire limestone sport. Training: ha, 1-3-5 might have been a more realistic goal (which i still wouldn't have attained). Real life currently in progress, and pending results...

[joeisidle]

Targets

Do a V8 of any description
Do a V8 on peak grit
Climb a grit arete that's actually hard (basically learn to climb grit aretes)


Climbs

High Speed Imp Act
Cave Righthand (Robin Hood's Stride)
Tierdrop
Not To Be Taken Away
Clever Beaver


Training
The beastmaker 45s. A lot.

Thought I was going well for the year so far as I've recently managed to tick my first V8 (yyfy!) in the cave of justice, yet that's the only aim I've completed (unless you count Balls Test at Baslow as (a) an arete and (b) hard). Oh well, at least there's still 6 months to try and rectify this

[duncan]

Aims for 2011 aka the Digging A Hole Motivation Programme.

Trad
The Whaler, Stackpole  still bird-banned
A bunch of classic sea-cliff E3s 4 so far
America, Carn Gowla (the proper way)  team and date tentatively arranged
Wadi Rum trip  yes - and did the excellent Inshallah Factor
Comici - Cima Grande (or Rabada-Navarro - Naranjo de Bulnes) flights and accommodation booked for July
E5 (by June, onsight of course) FAIL

Sport
7a onsight, ideally Fiesta de los Biceps  Best onsight so far 6c+.  Didn't go near Fiesta!
Try some proper sport-climbing (7b redpoint).  Best so far 7a

Bouldering
V5 / 6C on grit  FAIL! One day sat watching the rain from under T-crack

Other
Manage aches and pains to allow at least 9 months climbing Succeeded Jan-April but failed in May when it was all supposed to come together.  Temporary set-back but non-ideal timing

This half-year is probably the most active I've been in the last 10.  Of the biggest goals, E5 is still on for 2011 I think although I've just missed the deadline for 5 at 50.  All set of Comici in July, hope weather, fitness, team converge...

[chris j]

Feels like much the same for me, but I've slimmed it down so my emotional welll-being for the year rests on an even smaller choice of routes...

1. Empire of the Sun (Ansteys), to be honest any 7b will be good but this one has too much time and effort invested not to go down eventually.
2. The Lynch (Ansteys), not at all my style of climbing but when I'm in top form now I can just do each individual move. If I get this it will be a reall YYFY.
3. Break on Through & Fay at Sharpnose. Both a step up above what I achieved this year. E4 onsight is something of a psychological barrier so either of these will be great.
4. Wraith (Sharpnose). 2nded it in the autumn so I know how far outside my comfort zone I need to get but it just might go...
5. MTFU & do something on Sanctuary Wall

& the big one, given I've pulled/torn pulleys each of  the last two years, is to stay uninjured for the year. Got to realise when to back off before something goes pop....

Near the halfway point...

1. Empire of the Sun - in the bag, siege ended YYFY etc. Loss of 5kg bodyweight from 1/2 marathon training made a surprising difference to my ability to haul myself up 70ft of overhanging limestone...   

2, 3, 4 & 5 haven't even been looked at yet. Too much work away means I've been home for 4 weeks since winter ended. Next time home (July) will have to pay attention to Sharpnose & the Lynch...

No injuries yet 

Unexpected other bonus, ran my 1st half-marathon (Great West Run) in 1:42 so beat arbitrary target of 1:45.

[lukeyboy]

This is going to be the year.

General aim - get out a lot, avon in the evenings and pembroke weekends. do some sport in cheddar. do more gritstone.

Specific aims:

1. Trad. Get steady on E3, onsight a short bouldery E5 (strapadictomy?). When I get to the crag don't fanny around on 'warm-ups', instead do a bit of bouldering then get on what I want to do.

2. Sport. Not all that bothered. Prob a week in spain or france end of march. Do a redpoint rather than just trying to flash everything. Hopefully tick a 7c by end of year. A little ambitious perhaps.

3. Bouldering. Keep power topped up in between route climbing. Peak in autumn. Try to go somewhere other than font (might not have the self control for this aim). Perhaps magic wood/ticino? Either way, climb 7B. Have a proper go at something hard rather than thinking I can't do it because I didn't flash it.

4. Route/boulder ticklist for 2011...


Mau mau, strapadictomy, traveller in time, smear test, ascent of man, left wall, vector, pull my daisy, german schoolgirl, track of the cat

Rubis sur l'ongle, noir desir, el poussif, hyper plomb, deliverance, C3PO, sulky little boys, jerry's traverse


If all those go down I'll be a happy man.

Mid year review!!

1. Trad going fairly well. Feeling happy on most E3, onsighted first E4 last month in the pass (YYFY)

2. Done a couple of 7b's without really redpointing (couple of tries), 7b+ is definitely on. Need to find a 7c proj

3. Went to font in march, convinced myself that this was due to time and budget constraints. Had a good trip, did several 7A's. Did first 7A+, 5 goes. Tried a couple of harder things but didn't anyone to work them with/bit too warm and didn't get that far.

4. Did left wall & pull my daisy on royal wedding weekend. Not been on the grit or tried any of the others yet

Not too dissatisfied but still a bit further to go...

[cheque]

Pass driving test

Done 4,000+ miles since I passed in January. 

Save money for USA trip

Put away £1,000ish so far. 
 

Trad E2
Boulder 7a
Sport 7a

  although I have made progress towards my trad and bouldering goals. Haven't done a single sport route this year, though.

Stay injury-free!

  Only had very minor tweaks. Haven't been out of action with any of them long enough to lose momentum in my climbing.

[TheCarlisleKid]

Trad-
Onsight some more E3's and E4's, force myself to do some slabs.
Redpoint another few E5's, maybe an E6????

Sport- Flash 7a+ and 7a more consistently outdoors.
Redpoint a 7c and more 7b+'s, to prove to myself it wasn't a fluke.

Bouldering- Flash more 7a's and 7a+'s.
Do a Font 7c!

Most importantly.... stop being lazy and do more training!

[Hoseyb]

Due to the challenges of life with three children aged 2 and under, I'm only allowing myself one proper aim this year
http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2010/12/brewing-next-years-psyche.html

Very psyched for this big, actual quality, line

Currently aching from the start of the training treadmill

Well I've got it cleaned at least http://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2011/06/getting-beasted.html

Excited and scared

More scared

[gcarmichael]

Bouldering-
Climb Renegade Master, The Joker, Brad Pit and Tumbleweed
Complete a Font 8a

Sport-
Complete a f7c+

[chillax]

Trad
Onsight E3 at the Head Tick

Bouldering
7b Not yet. Hopefully next winter

Sport
Try not to do it. But if I have to do it, then onsight more 7a's or harder. Steered clear so far

Other
Get a job. Ideally in Vancouver and ideally starting late spring. But anything'll do. Mega tick. Got great job in Ireland

3 out of 4 ain't bad

Revised trad goals:
 - Onsight more E3's
 - E3 in the Burren
 - E4 before the end of the summer
 - Prozac Link on Lewis at the end of August
 - Get back on burren project and do it

[al123]

boulder 6c+/7a everytime i go out- do able....ish by Autumn
onsight e2 regularly- very do able by spring/summer time
onsight a few e3's - do able, especially in wales
onsight a e4- do able
headpoint a e5/e6-hopefully do able by autumn time.
climb alot more sport routes in summer!!! - easily do able.
climb french 7a- maybe, havent done much sport so dont know what a french 7a is like
as soon as it gets light enough get back out on the grit in the evenings and away from the horrible indoor wall- my pleasure to do this one
big trip up to cloggy- easy to do.
scotland trip for winter and summer climbing- easy enough to do.
TRAINING
stick to your plan- very do able
concentrate on slopers and your core- do able

going well, plus i did the E5 ground up 

[lagerstarfish]

climb french 7a- maybe, havent done much sport so dont know what a french 7a is like

Given your other achievements, this should be easy.

In fact you might as well go straight for Rubicon roof and get a 7b done

[chris j]

Given your other achievements, this should be easy.

In fact you might as well go straight for Rubicon roof and get a 7b done

Might as well change the goal from 7a to 7a onsight with a ground-up E5 under his belt.

[al123]

Given your other achievements, this should be easy.

In fact you might as well go straight for Rubicon roof and get a 7b done

Might as well change the goal from 7a to 7a onsight with a ground-up E5 under his belt.

I dont think Pebble Mill warrants anywhere near 7a though? seemed like a balancey v3 boulder problem start and then just 5b/c moves to the top. maybe a 6b+ or something?

[Fiend]

I'm not doing mine until it's exactly halfway!! Fairly mediocre so far except the "new destinations" bit which is working okay.

[Muenchener]

Mid-term review

6b os at Arco at Easter
Yes.
Nevertheless a mixed experience. I was in Arco for two weeks with family & friends, and only got three days of proper (non-kids) climbing in. Far harder than I expected to reconcile family holiday with climbing trip.
Tried three 6bs. The first two were steep and continuous: felt like I should have been physically well capable of onsighting them, but mentally not yet. Don't have the real rock mileage. Third go I found one that suited my current abilities: short bouldery crux, not too steep.
Am focusing my wall sessions now on getting (at least physically) better at steep continuous stuff.


6c os
Not seriously tried yet, and given that my summer focus is on longer stuff in the Alps, two grades up in six months may be a a bit hopeful. Remains to be seen what a few autumn visits to the Frankenjura might bring


One or more good, big Alpine rock routes in the summer
A small yes.
The "Little" Micheluzzi on Piz Ciavazes at 300 metres and V- is right at the bottom of my target range for both length and grade but hey, the summer has only just begun and you have to start somewhere. Plus my initial plans were focused on semi-sport stuff with at least bolted stances, not full-on alpine trad with rusty pegs. Only went to the Dolomites because the weather was crap everywhere else. So learning that I can keep it together on trad gear in big, steep situations is something of a milestone - sufficiently so that I'm thinking of heading back to the Dolomites in August instead of a previously planned visit to Handegg/Grimsel. Rusty pegs & holds less scary than bolts miles apart & no holds.
Frau M saw a picture of a thirty pitch, thousand metre VII+ that was put up last year in the Wetterstein and said "we're doing that". She has never been on anything longer than four pitches. Game On.


... and/or ...
One or more classic E2s on a Welsh Trad Tour in the summer
Won't be this year. Maybe next.

[Fiend]

Half-term report, managed to sneak in a trip to Caithness so not quite as dire as it could be.

1. Keep in touch with friends and partners better and organise myself more proactively. - a bit, have kept in contact with some good partners and made some decent plans on the rare occasions the weather allows.

2. Get to somewhere interesting over Easter (Pedriza? Alscace?), and over summer (Scandinavia? South Africa? Hatun Machay?). - yes, got to Pedriza and have Sweden booked for July. Not mega-exotic, but inspiring.

3. Week long trip to Lewis - no, several days sea-cliffing in Skye - no, long weekend in Caithness - yes, long weekend in Mull over winter/spring - yes. - still working on it, awful summer weather has prevented proper trips.

4. Get to Merionydd & Lleyn when weather is bolleaux in Scotland. - no.

5. Keep exploring cool places in Scotland. - a little bit, Mull was cool and got to Loch Maree crags pre-midges.

6. Explore more bouldering over winter: Torridon, Reiff, Skye, Mull, Inverness, Aberdeen, Trossachs, Northumberland, Carrock Fell, Gouther, St Bees. - a little bit, had some great bouldering days at Loch Buie (Mull), Ruthven Boulder (Inverness) and Clash (Aberdeen). Didn't do much else but can wait till next year.

7. Climb a few E5s. - nowhere near, weather has been so awful since April that I've not managed to get onto inspiring harder routes, plus have slacked off stamina / fitness training a bit.

8. Climb a few F7a+s. - no, see above

9. Keep fit at gym, pool, and wall. - a little bit, particularly in spring, have lazed off now and need to keep it up though.

10. Lose 1 stone via the above. - no, have lost 1/4 stone it seems, rest will be hard.

Overall, exploration and travelling has been quite reasonable, as has maintaining a fairly acceptable standard of mediocrity. Getting to Scottish destinations and progressing with my climbing has been quite rubbish, partly due to my haphazard training and mostly due to the atrocious weather. I can work on this by continuining to be patient and trying hard to make the most out of training periods.

[andy_e]

Become a Master of Science Almost a tick
Get a career rolling Almost a tick
7C+ Not yet
Do more classic Yorkshire 7s Yes, but more would be nice.

[Jim]

I've abandoned my goal of 8a bloc before I was 33 (I would of had to of done some climbing and training) and all I want this year is to move house without too much bother.
Climbing a load of 7c and the odd 7c+ would be great tho.
Might see if I can do a french 8a in the summer

Well I moved house so that ones ticked  , however a snapped bicep tendon  at the start of March has messed up my climbing ambitions for this year.
hopefully be climbing again in a month or 2 and start training properly by the end of the year

[Dr T]

A good haul of low to mid 7's in the two planned trips to the forest
as per yyfy
Retour aux Sources (7a), Les Sabots d'Hélène (7a/7a+),  Le Mur de la Fosse aux Ours (7a), Opéra Tchétchène (7a+), Plats de Saison (7a/7a+), Sa Pelle au Logis (7a), Jokari 7a+ (7a), Le Journal du Hard (7a+/b) and Sale Affaire 7a (flash)
Still got one more trip planned...
2nd trip yielded a lot of fun sub 7 plus Magic Bus (7b/+), Yogi (7b), Ah, Plus Facile! (apparently a much tighter eliminate than was required so 7a+/possibly 7b), La Baleine (7a/+), Lapin ou Canard (7a), Le Surplomb Feuilleté gauche (départ bas) (7a) - flash and Abdolobotomy (7a) - from the proper start!
So yeah aim ticked - and the list for 2012 is developing....

Go to St Bees
Oh yes - three days just past. Even with some pain in the elbows and a very dodgy back it was awesome
Tick list wasn't the biggest in world - a  nice haul of sies plus Headbanger (7a), Chipper's Wall (7a+), Kraken - both flavours (both 7a+ - though the RH finish seemed a good bit harder than the left), Dead Calm (7a+/b) and Black Hole SDS (7b in the guide...)
Must good back, so beautiful and some much more to do.... 
(oh and thanks to the St Bee's locals who showed us around on Friday evening)


Train sensibly without over doing it
So far so good
Back in the shed too (see below) - so power is coming back

Maybe get in some grit
Trip booked for Nov' half term....

Make sure I get enough sleep.... hopefully Jr T will be more accomodating than in 2010
So far so good - thank you little man

Keep the faith when it seems like it's one step forward, two steps backwards....
Sae the sports doctor...
Ultra sound showed tendon damage (both elbows) - but recovering well with physio exercises 
The nerve problem cleared up with physio 
Keeping the faith is proving little easier - just need to be clam and realise I ain't getting any younger....

[Wil]

Update...

Onsight E4 consistently - Not had enough trad mileage this summer, but getting up a few E3s and got on some E4s at least. Week in Pembroke coming up...
Onsight a proper E5 Not attempted, but plenty of time for a High Tor tick.
Redpoint F7c Not got stuck into any real projects this summer, but have been onsighting 7a and getting 7a+/b second go consistently, which is progress
Sport in Yorkshire Had weekend set aside and then didn't go...
Get at least 3 weekends in Pembroke No weekends, but had 5 days in June and another 7 coming up.

[c.j.d.]

1)  Do some thing hard without so much fucking about.
2)  Cut down on booze.
3)  Stop being a grumpy old git.
4)  Don't get bored.
5)  Blow them skinny buggers out of the water.
6)  Tick my tick list (now then, that would be good).

[dunnyg]

Aims were

1. 7b (probably nerve ending kilnsey)  - done, though not nerve ending, some route at Loja
2. 7A                 - Done
3.7B                  - Done
4. onsight 7a      - Flashed a couple, just need a proper onsight.



New aims:

1. Some more 7b's (got to do nerver ending if i can catch it dry!)    Did nerve ending- wasnt massivley dry....
2. A 7C before the end of the year                                                   Keel swing is pretty standard now, just need to do one campus move.....
3. Get a rope on for some trad and push it above gear        Not as much as i should, but done the odd good thing here and there
4. Climb long chimney.......FAIL
5. Onsight some 7a!    Dont think so, fell off on last bolt on one, but havent really been bolt clipping

Aims before xmas - 1. Keel, cherry falls rh. and the horn
2. Get lots of 7B's done
3. Get stronger

[andybfreeman]

Training
Finish mini-PE phase and get back onto pure power! Party tricks including 1-4-7 (1-4-6.5), one arm pull ups (done!) and front levers (not trained).
Maintain fitness and route head throughout prime bouldering season - will mean weekly leading sessions hopefully outside but if necessary at turdburghs.

Bouldering
Regular trips to Sheffield and Leeds capitalising on availability of floor space to have a decent winter/spring on the grit. Finish my unfinished business including T-crack. (pretty much failed. Did manage deliverance in a weekend and hoping to finish tetris on Sunday after clearing the contents of my flat to my folks' house)
Taper sensibly before 2 or 3 week font trip planned for Easter. Hope for decent conditions and flesh out my pyramid hoping to peak at 7C (maybe L’Ange Naif) - no joy on L'ange Naif but did finally finish Onde du Choc last week (YYFY! long term project, must have first pulled on 3 years ago)
Get to the cave and try Rock Atrocity. didn't happen
Get to the pass and try Jerry’s Roof.didn't happen


Routes (sport)
Get back to Anstey’s ASAP and put the Cider Soak to bed. Not yet - saturday this weekend will be a cove day if i can find a catch + all of next weekend will be spent there to have one last push
More sport after Font. Put some meat on the bones of what currently looks a very thin pyramid.
Finally get a 7a on sight! Still no joy - consistently get 7as first redpoint but struggle with route reading, to sort in Oz!

Routes (trad)
Try some trad in the UK ASAP. N/A

Life
Move to Australia!! Either arrange a 12 month sabbatical with 6-9 months climbing and a secondment or hand in my notice and just go
I'd like to get my shit sorted within the next 6 months as my brother and his gf will be in Aus for 12 months from next week and it’d be sweet to spend a few months climbing in the bluies with them before they come back to the UK. Move on 7 October, YYFY!!

Time for an update:

Still missing my route goals but will be spending  the next three months pretty much just climbing routes in Oz so that can be resolved. Will have to get on some trad from the research I've done so that should be fun