YYFY!!!

UKBouldering.com

Help Support UKBouldering.com:

Mr. Hemsworth should consider to stop misusing steroids if he wants to live longer.
 
Being deliberately cryptic here as I might soon have to up my discretion game. But this is a valuable lesson in life sometimes throwing serendipitous wonders at you, especially when you’ve spent a lot of time wondering whether it can get much shittier. From the late 90s till I met my now ex wife, I had a major crush on a Hollywood actress, about whom I spent / wasted a lot of time (in the way that non-serious daydreamers like me are apt to do) musing over what it might be like to date her one day - someone completely unattainable who I was convinced was the most beautiful woman in the world. Well, thanks to dating app technology and some well-obscured photos, it turns out that the person I’ve been having sporadic phone calls with over the past month is the same person*. She even phoned me up on Saturday to ask how my session at the wall went before we launched into a discussion about boilers. I have no idea if romance will blossom or not, and I don’t really care as the whole thing is so hilariously improbable. Either way, along with my sleepwalking auto-defenestration story I’m going to win every dinner party anecdote competition for life.

*This is not uncharacteristic. I spent five minutes standing in a farm yard last January talking about the size of horses’ hoofs with a man (whilst my son fed his horse a carrot) before realising that I was talking to Paul McCartney.
 
PBd my backsquat

A poverty 110kgs but happy with all progress given that I started squatting in Feb on sub 90kgs with a fucked knee!

Aim of 130kgs this year feels maybe doable?
 
Yossarian said:
From the late 90s till I met my now ex wife, I had a major crush on a Hollywood actress, about whom I spent / wasted a lot of time (in the way that non-serious daydreamers like me are apt to do) musing over what it might be like to date her one day - someone completely unattainable who I was convinced was the most beautiful woman in the world. Well, thanks to dating app technology and some well-obscured photos, it turns out that the person I’ve been having sporadic phone calls with over the past month is the same person*. She even phoned me up on Saturday to ask how my session at the wall went before we launched into a discussion about boilers. I have no idea if romance will blossom or not, and I don’t really care as the whole thing is so hilariously improbable. Either way, along with my sleepwalking auto-defenestration story I’m going to win every dinner party anecdote competition for life.

https://youtu.be/X6NPyCMt_oc
 
Yossarian said:
She even phoned me up on Saturday to ask how my session at the wall went before we launched into a discussion about boilers.

I like riddles. Is it Glenn Close?
 
First evening surf in ages. Clean waves, good rides, mellow vibes. Got out the water a bit before 10 as arms were in tatters, but others said they got out just before 11 as it was getting a bit too dark.
 
Despite being sick with long covid I have as of today stretched 500 days in a row. Quite a few of those days I was too unwell to leave the house but I still got some form of stretching done. My sessions aren’t exactly long (I can’t manage much) but even so I am considerably more flexible than when I started. Consistency pays, who knew?!
 
Actually got out and did some trad!

Owing to spending much of this year quite ill (in a surprise twist, it was my physical health that turned out to be a worse trashfire than my mental health), I haven't done any since last year.

But today I finally got out, bumbled up some VDiffs and established that I can still tie a figure-of eight and vaguely remember what the bits of metal hanging off my harness are for.
 
slab_happy said:
Actually got out and did some trad!

Owing to spending much of this year quite ill (in a surprise twist, it was my physical health that turned out to be a worse trashfire than my mental health), I haven't done any since last year.

But today I finally got out, bumbled up some VDiffs and established that I can still tie a figure-of eight and vaguely remember what the bits of metal hanging off my harness are for.
:great:
 
I managed to do Adrenochrome at Lulworth on Wednesday. I’ve dabbled on it for years but never made much of an impression, and whenever I’ve seen people on it before I’ve always thought of it as something that’s out of my league, or at least something that’d require a lot of work. To stand on top after a few days going ground up this year (plus the 8 sessions over the last 8 years) felt like a highlight of my climbing life.

The first hard move is a dyno which is not something I’m very good at, but a friend showed me some amazing toe-hook-catch beta which seems to work really well for my height. Still, it adds a bit of jeopardy to every attempt before you’ve even gotten into the hard stuff.

My high point from previous years was the next crux which is a long move to some good jugs. Usually you’d go left hand but I’ve never managed to get this to work for me. I rolled the dice a bit and used a very wobbly left hand undercut (you’re not too high at this point), opening up the opportunity to try the sustained upper section.

The top half is incredible. Big moves on some slopers, pockets and edges, all the while the ever increasing height tickling at the back of your mind as the pump builds. Then before you know it you’re at the lip! And you’re pumped! Fuck! I’ve seen people bin it here. Please don’t bin it here. But you’re on slopers, the clock isn’t ticking, it’s about to crash down to zero. But what’s that…a jug to the right…GO! A momentary reprieve, breath. One more move, please god give me one more move to get over the lip.

Usually I’m pretty quiet when topping out. Not this time.
 
Brilliant!

How does ground up projecting work on DWS? Do you need a million pairs of shoes or are you climbing in wet ones? Do you have a dryable chalk bag? How many goes a day? Is it noticeably harder to get psyched when you're climbing in redpointing temperatures?
 


Write your reply...

Latest posts

Back
Top