[Peak & Yorkshire][Various crags][42 probs 5 -7C]

[SA Chris]

That sucks, when you have two left feet.

 

[bolehillbilly]

Ha, not the first time, I went to the wall with two left shoes a couple of weeks back. Maybe eed to keep some spare feet in the climbing bag for future instances.

 

[El Mocho]

The Roaches – Ou Est Le Spit area
** Proper Gander 7C – Mega problem on the Ou Est Le Spit buttress itself. Sit start in the cave on the RHS on two big pockets, gain the scoop above via thin and fat pinches. A long move out of the scoop gains a hard slopey exit which may be the finish to the mystery old E3 - Wolfman of the KGB. Brilliant climbing on sweet holds demanding a good range of grit skills
* Wolfman Sitter 7A+ - Starting in the same cave, this time further right on a smaller pair of pockets. Trav leftwards through the start holds of PG to gain and climb the ramp feature (footholds on PG) into the finish of PG

Did Proper G yesterday, nice. Nearly gave myself a hernia on the top out, old school E3 is hard! Spent a little while trying to finish the bolder problem direct but guess you move left with your feet on the big footholds?

Also did that Leathered trav, didn't have a kneepad and couldn't get the knee bar to fit anyway but I don't think it makes any dif to the grade.

 

[Bonjoy]

Nice one. How did you manage the crux on P G without a kneepad!? I finished up the scoop direct above the big foothold (handhold on Wolfman SS). Thought it might be easier further left but the landing is much worse. Direct above the broad pinch would be heinous!
I used the pad on Leathered to match the ramp after doing the arete bit. Would expect the same sequence would work without the bar. The bar deffo seemed more crucial on PG.

 

[El Mocho]

I ended up kinda slapping up (from the lip) with R hand to the highish pinch (as a backhand), then nearly ripped myself apart holding it and getting weight onto L foot. Went L to nice pinch, r to top lip, flicked l to wide pinch/side pull to left and did a big stretch to higher sloping top (with feet on big foot hold) then started swimming. The landing seemed just about ok although I was aware not to fall to the left, would have been nice with an extra pad. I didn't know you used a knee pad on PG thought it was just for Leathered, I should probably get one but I never get round to it.

 

[Bonjoy]

Good work, sounds heinous. I get lip then throw a high but poor kneebar in and then go again with lh to wide pinch. I might not work for your height anyway. Sounds like the same topout. Will try and post some pics tomorrow.

 

[Bonjoy]

Sorry about the unrotated pic. Annoyingly the pic is correctly rotated on PC but then reverts when uploaded. It'll have to do for now. From this position you move LH back and left and then start manteling.

 

[Bonjoy]

Here's a vid of Ned on Proper Gander. Not best quality but good for beta
https://vimeo.com/196192426

 

[Bonjoy]

Here's one of The Real Thin, 'Tidy' Jon Coe climbing.
https://vimeo.com/197417570

 

[Stahl]

Here's a vid of Ned on Proper Gander. Not best quality but good for beta

This looks brilliant, well done Jon. Well spotted, both the line and the sequence.

 

[Will Hunt]

Going back in the thread a bit, can anyone enlighten me as to the finish for Get A Grip at Eavestone? The moves through the roof are great but I just couldn't suss how to get up onto the lip from the pocket. I'd be interested in giving Sky Carbon or whatever it's called a go since the top of Sky Diamond looks like a sharp bunchfest to me.
Andy also describes an alternate finish, how does that one work?

 

[Alex-the-Alex]

https://vimeo.com/196180385

Pretty much same as this Will, using the hold round the arete a bit. Its not too bad once figured out. I just didnt have the beans to link it all...

 

[Bonjoy]

Cheers Ru.

Have also added an extension start to The Real Thin starting on right as per Crystal Voyager, bumps it up to 7a+. On same day also did a RH finish on The Flakes at 6b+.

 

[Will Hunt]

https://vimeo.com/196180385

Pretty much same as this Will, using the hold round the arete a bit. Its not too bad once figured out. I just didnt have the beans to link it all...

Fucks sake that's grim.

 

[Bonjoy]

Another one to add to the RH Upper Tier circuit. Done last week, it saw a few quick repeats, all agreed it a fine addition. Bit like a giant Staffs Flyer. Pretty obvious line, wouldn't be surprised if it attracted a retroclaim (hence the name).

Who’s Boss 6C – About 10m directly behind the Ride My Pimp block. The high prow, with a boss mantel to finish. Grade might feel generous without the post-clean scrittle-damp. FA Rocketman Rob Smith

 

[Alex-the-Alex]

Hi Jon, does Veni Vidi Vici climb more on the left or the right of the arete? I was up today and managed the left hand side which was great but couldnt quite do the right... cheers.

 

[Bonjoy]

Fairly front on from what I recall. Deffo involved a heel-toe.

 

[Alex-the-Alex]

Ah right thanks. Yeah used a heel toe both ways but couldnt commit to the right hand side (left foot in). Visions of snapped ankles.... Cheers.