[Peak][Various lime, grit and Churnet][various up to 7C+/8A]

[tomtom]

Here's the Sheep Shifter vid (or will be once vimeo's done processing). Shame I couldn't find anywhere to plonk the camera which showed the steepness, ee well. Had another play on the possible lefthand variant last night too, the top bit is easy (get the big sidepull/undercut off the crimp then span right into the finish of the normal) but I couldn't do the moves to get there, getting the crimp after the slot with your right seemed pretty hard. Might turn out to be worthwhile if it doesn't climb too close to the blocks on the left, but will be harder than the original I think.

https://vimeo.com/105383313

A bump for some sheep shifter advice.. thinking of heading there later on this week to have a play - but wondered which way it faced? E.G. was it in the shade or sun - and at what time of day etc.. No point in racking up in the morning if its frying in the sun etc..
Cheers,
TT

 

[T_B]

South ish
I could imagine it catching the morning sun, though it's pretty steep and in a steep sided valley :-\

 

[tomtom]

Cloudy day best then.. thanks. Might go and have an inspection anyway...

 

[dave]

The valley is narrow enough and the problem steep enough that I bet it doesn't get any direct sunlight at any time at the minute.

 

[tomtom]

Went today with Dolly and Plattsy.

For info - it's in the sun in the AM and dipped into shade behind the trees about 12:30 ish.

Fuck its nails! None of us could do the first (proper) move (rh pinch, lh throw from porthole to drilled slot..

None of us could do the 7A+ to the right either - though it wasn't quite clear where that went and a couple of small lumps of the arête came off... not affecting anything except confidence....

 

[dave]

Tom I think if I remember right I might have done it using a pinchy hold just below the slot because I was struggling either to get the slot or use it once i'd got it, I forget which.

 

[tomtom]

A quite wide pinch? (Stop sniggering Dolly and Plattsy..)

 

[mark20]

The whole thing feels utterly desperate but it gradually comes together once you get it sussed and give it some beans. Some manage to get a dropknee for that move to slot, I couldn't get it work so did a very low percentage deadpoint.

The one to the right is very much a filler in, but a useful warmup, I don't know if this vid is any use
https://youtu.be/9FjvINsMwUY
James finished up into the top hold of Sheep Shifter from here which makes more sense.

 

[dave]

A quite wide pinch? (Stop sn**gering Dolly and Plattsy..)

Yeah that rings a bell.

 

[Scouse D]

Same sentiment as mark. Feels nails until you get a sequence then just need to try hard. Finding a sequence which works was the crux.

 

[tomtom]

Cheers y'all. We did the bottom bit completely different on the vid - and went along he edge of the arête rather than around it near the top. Feel beasted now though!!

I tried bonjoys deep drop knee but I don't think it helped me with my spindly legs... slapped near the slot a couple of times so direct is probably the best way.

 

[Bonjoy]

Have done it with and without slot, seemed much the same difficulty-wise. So I guess the pinch way is easier if you don't like deep egyptians.
Re that slot. I know it looks drill but I can't be. When I cleaned the line it was partly blocked with a calcite crystal, which obviously took millennia to form. The rock is fossil rich reef limestone, so a crystal filled void is most likely to be the body cavity of a brachiopod. Sounds weak, but it's the truth, honest.

 

[tomtom]

Have done it with and without slot, seemed much the same difficulty-wise. So I guess the pinch way is easier if you don't like deep egyptians.
Re that slot. I know it looks drill but I can't be. When I cleaned the line it was partly blocked with a calcite crystal, which obviously took millennia to form. The rock is fossil rich reef limestone, so a crystal filled void is most likely to be the body cavity of a brachiopod. Sounds weak, but it's the truth, honest.

Theres a good few other drill marks on that bit of rock - so I wouldn't be too surprised if it was or indeed wasnt..
It does remind me of a certain hold on rockatrocity

(not saying its you of course! just some early mining/quarrying etc..)

 

[Bonjoy]

Yes have seen other holes, one has a nail in it. Just can,t see how a discrete 2 inch cavity can grow a half inch crystal in the geologically miniscule perio since drills were invented :shrug:.

 

[tomtom]

Yes have seen other holes, one has a nail in it. Just can,t see how a discrete 2 inch cavity can grow a half inch crystal in the geologically miniscule perio since drills were invented :shrug:.

point taken