[Peak][Various lime, grit and Churnet][various up to 7C+/8A]

[r-man]

Just clocked your pics on pb. This looks brilliant. Is that really the beta?!

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/4-northern-grit/crags/183-seal-edge-stones/boulders/836-the-mushrooms/problems/4444-chicken-mushroom-scoop#.U_79VmPq11g

 

[Bonjoy]

It's the only way I could figure to do it. The tall might manage it without.

 

[Fiend]

Bonjoy at one with the mushrooms again!

 

[Three Nine]

Went to look at Sheep Shifter today. Good find!

I had a taped tip on my left index, which was a bit of a pain in the bum. Nonetheless I don't feel too silly saying that I think there are easier 7Cs on Peak lime, and certainly lots of far easier 7Bs. Maybe its a style thing - it felt much harder to 'gay' it than a lot of problems. Perhaps it would indeed be 7A+ on a Sheffield cellar board!

From big fat pinch with RH I was dropping my left knee, facing right, and going for the slotty edge with my left. Hard to get in it, so you have to be static. I think i did this move once. Hard foot moves, R heel on and up to poor little pinch with RH, LF in the hole, then trying to pull front on (RF on nothing) up to the small positive edge with my left. Couldnt do this move. Then LF on ramp out left, RF on high little foothold, dropping R knee and slapping really quickly to good edge with RH (felt will be nails on link). Then easy move up to edge with notch in it, then couldnt work out where I was going and was too scared on my own with one pad to persevere. Will go back with step ladder and scope out where im going for.

Thought was well hard.

 

[Three Nine]

No the move with the left hand up from the big hole to the horizontal slot. I think ive got some different beta now so it should be ok hopefully.

I dont understand this? You start the problem with your LH in the big hole, so how can you be reaching up with your left hand from it?

 

[Bonjoy]

Cheers. That sounds much like my sequence. The last moves are fine once you know what you are reaching for. We had a ladder and it was useful for the top as it's quite high for blind slapping. From left on the notched edge get a similar sized hold with right, build feet and go again to a good hold where the arête cuts left, then glued jug with left.
Will change to 7b on pb.info

 

[Three Nine]

Is the good hold round on the top of the arete, or a sort of sidepul in a notch just down and left of the arete (if you can remember?)

 

[dave]

No the move with the left hand up from the big hole to the horizontal slot. I think ive got some different beta now so it should be ok hopefully.

I dont understand this? You start the problem with your LH in the big hole, so how can you be reaching up with your left hand from it?

He means your left hand is in the hole, then you let go of the hole to move that hand to the slot. Obviously the other hand is holding onto something while this is happening. Can't believe I just explained that.

 

[Bonjoy]

Is the good hold round on the top of the arete, or a sort of sidepul in a notch just down and left of the arete (if you can remember?)

It's over the arête where it cuts left on some brown looking rock. You can't really see the hold from below

 

[Three Nine]

Cheers Bonjoy. Cheers/fuck you Dave.

 

[dave]

Cheers/fuck you Dave.

Don't mention it.

 

[Seb]

From big fat pinch with RH I was dropping my left knee, facing right, and going for the slotty edge with my left. Hard to get in it, so you have to be static. I think i did this move once. Hard foot moves, R heel on and up to poor little pinch with RH, LF in the hole, then trying to pull front on (RF on nothing) up to the small positive edge with my left. Couldnt do this move. Then LF on ramp out left, RF on high little foothold, dropping R knee and slapping really quickly to good edge with RH (felt will be nails on link). Then easy move up to edge with notch in it, then couldnt work out where I was going and was too scared on my own with one pad to persevere. Will go back with step ladder and scope out where im going for.

Thought was well hard.

I go to the pinch lower down and do the move to the RH pinch off that. Much easier.

Move to the second to last hold is still shutting me down totally. Cant make the distance.

 

[Three Nine]

What so big fat pinch with RH to slopey pinch below the slotty edge with LH then R heel and up to little pinch with RH?

Have you worked out which hold you're going to on the move that's shutting you down? I couldnt see the hold!

 

[Seb]

i used the lower sidepull for my right hand which set me up better but other than that yer. I know where the hold is but im miles away from touching it.

 

[Three Nine]

Hopefully some nice person will put a vid up soon.

 

[Bonjoy]

Soz, didn't get a vid (not suggesting i'm nice either). Might go back and do it again though and get one.

 

[Three Nine]

That would definitely be a nice thing to do!

 

[Bonjoy]

I’ve updated this update with some up to date additional bits at Blackwell and Eastwood. See italics in OP

 

[Bonjoy]

 

[Bonjoy]

Here's the Sheep Shifter vid (or will be once vimeo's done processing). Shame I couldn't find anywhere to plonk the camera which showed the steepness, ee well. Had another play on the possible lefthand variant last night too, the top bit is easy (get the big sidepull/undercut off the crimp then span right into the finish of the normal) but I couldn't do the moves to get there, getting the crimp after the slot with your right seemed pretty hard. Might turn out to be worthwhile if it doesn't climb too close to the blocks on the left, but will be harder than the original I think.

https://vimeo.com/105383313