[Peak][Various lime, grit and Churnet][various up to 7C+/8A]

[Fiend]

YGB looks a pimp line for lime.

 

[monkey boy]

Sheep Shifter looks good. Impressive piece of limestone!

On a side note I like the "pineapple" in related collections on the vimeo page :lol:

 

[Bonjoy]

Fiend - Yeah it ticks all the boxes, great rock, climbs well, nice height, nice location, tops out. Shame lank boy beat me to it after I'd cleaned it up :slap:

MB - well spotted

 

[monkey boy]

Where is the Black N Deckout Buttress in Blackwell? Past Mutton Busting?

Where do you park for Cave Dale? Will this stay dry in the rain as it looks like some might be on the way tomorrow.

 

[Bonjoy]

Yeah BnD buttress is the next buttress down from Mutton Busting on the same side. Not far, maybe 50m.

For Cave Dale turn left onto Back Street at the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese in Castleton. Follow the road and bear left at the junction. Either park as soon after the pub as you find a space, or more likely at a weekend on the the road as it leaves the village in an easterly direction. There is a brown footpath sign next to a bend in the road with "Cave Dale" on it, SS is on the right almost straight after the gate. Should stay dry even in heavy rain

 

[dave]

That video is no good, you make it look piss!

I doubt the top jug on the arete would stay dry in heavy rain.

 

[dontfollowme]

Had a go on Ramification yesterday but didn't do it. Did you use a high left foot on the slopey shelf to top out?

 

[Bonjoy]

Yes, left foot over the lip first, rock over and match feet. I have vids of both probs on the block that I'll put up when I get a chance

 

[user 1679]

I did Sheep Shifter today. It's really good and 7b seemed about right.

I ended up jumping to the penultimate hold as it seemed easier (for those of lesser stature) than locking it out or using the little intermediate crimp below.

I also used a really good heel-toe on the big pinch instead of the drop knee (beta courtesy of Gritlad so I'd be grateful if someone would award him a wad point as I still haven't posted enough to be able to do this myself).

 

[user 1679]

Checked out Seal Stones and Edge today. Bit of a slog but some great problems and maybe room for a few more. I added a direct mantel finish to The Wanderer at a scary 6b+(ish). I couldn't do the chicken wing method on Chicken and Mushroom Scoop but managed a dyno method instead which was still good fun. Not sure if this was how the original problem (called Launch) was done or if it was originally done French style.

Went back to Cave Dale with 205Chris this evening. We highballed the start of an old E3 6a on the Rheinstor-esque wall at about 6b+ (can't remember the name but it's in the old Stoney guide) and also did a right-hand version at around 6c+. Worth checking out if you're in the neighbourhood.

 

[Bonjoy]

Nice one. Good to see Kinder getting a few visits. It’s hard to tell with Launch/CnM. The guide says something like “somehow jump to the scoop left of the unclimbed offwidth, eng 6b”, I didn’t spot the possibility of dynoing off the undercut so assumed this meant a French start. I’ll email PM and see if he remembers.
The blunt rib you guys did on Ring Bolt Buttress looked a really worthy addition. I can’t find any reference to it online or in any of the old guides/supplements. Give it a name and see if that doesn’t shake a retro claimer out of the woodwork, that’s my usual strategy. Tried to check the new route books on rockarchivist.co.uk but unfortunately the site is down in protest over the bolting of some Lancashire quarries. Whilst I’m also against the bolting, it seems a shame that climbers in another area who have little say in the bolting in question loose access to a useful resource. I’ve got some more stuff here to report but will start a new thread as this one is already a bit crowded for a new probs report.

 

[Three Nine]

I did Sheep Shifter today. It's really good and 7b seemed about right.

I ended up jumping to the penultimate hold as it seemed easier (for those of lesser stature) than locking it out or using the little intermediate crimp below.

I also used a really good heel-toe on the big pinch instead of the drop knee (beta courtesy of Gritlad so I'd be grateful if someone would award him a wad point as I still haven't posted enough to be able to do this myself).

Heel toe on the big pinch for which hand move?

 

[user 1679]

I did Sheep Shifter today. It's really good and 7b seemed about right.

I ended up jumping to the penultimate hold as it seemed easier (for those of lesser stature) than locking it out or using the little intermediate crimp below.

I also used a really good heel-toe on the big pinch instead of the drop knee (beta courtesy of Gritlad so I'd be grateful if someone would award him a wad point as I still haven't posted enough to be able to do this myself).

Heel toe on the big pinch for which hand move?

The move to the good glued right-hand crimp (the fifth hand move).

Neither I nor 205Chris used a drop knee for the move off the big pinch to the pocket either. Bizarrely we found it easier to go face-on and a bit dynamically.

 

[user 1679]

The blunt rib you guys did on Ring Bolt Buttress looked a really worthy addition. I can’t find any reference to it online or in any of the old guides/supplements. Give it a name and see if that doesn’t shake a retro claimer out of the woodwork, that’s my usual strategy.

I found a UKB thread from 2008 that mentions bouldering on Ring Bolt Buttress.

John Gillott:

I did a bit of bouldering and climbing there many years ago.

In addition to the traverse there are some nice fingery problems on the ringbolt buttress a bit higher up on the left. The blunt arete until the difficulties ease is about English 6b. Into the scoop to the left is about 6a (keep going to the top of the crag at about E2). A low left to right traverse is quite good as well, at around 6a/b.

I'll get the name of the scoop from Chris and add both of them to Peak Bouldering along with the traverse.

 

[cofe]

Here’s an update of Peak stuff from the last few months. In no particular order.

Millstone

June Whitfield 7A - Climb the overhanging groove left of April Arete start to join it near the top.

Me and Scouse did this yesterday. Nicely tech with nano-nubbins for the feet. Soloing off the ledge was fun in gale force winds...

 

[andi_e]

Don’t think it has been mentioned on UKB yet that Tom Newman climbed a right hand finish to Mirf’s Roof and called it Burly McMirfy. Tom gave it 8A+ and it looks every bit of that on his vid of it, but Ned found an alternative sequence which dropped it to 7C+/8A. Why the split grade – Ned tends to shrug when I ask about grades, but it’s probably harder than Witness the Churnetness, but that is probably overgraded at 8A. The new climbing can be done from a kneeling start at the good lip holds of Mirf’s at 7B+ and has a great Master Kush style helicopter move.

Beta:
http://vimeo.com/128731210

 

[El Mocho]

Mirf’s Roof

Ned climbed the right hand of the two mantel project noted in the script for this Churnet venue it’s called Journey to the Centre of the Mirf. It took him a fair few goes and he’s not shit at mantels, but it was boiling and it’s on very slopey slopers, so the grade could be anything. 7B+ would seem a reasonable random guess for the time being, but it could be anything from 7B to 7C+.

Was down here today. Due to not reading this post/guide properly I thought Journey to the... was the line marked in the guide as a project (couldn't remember the name at the time) and was going to be a 7B and the one to the right was some thing done ages ago, anyhow, I did the left hand mantle which felt about 7B but from reading this post again it looks like this may in fact be new? I then did Journey... which felt closer to the proposed 7B+ than 7C+. Also linked the Mirf's Roof start into Journey. Felt a fair bit harder than the stand version but not outrageous, it was very warm though (I was so hot I ended up climbing it in just my pink underpants, luckily only Klem was with me and he has shit eyesight so will be ok I think) Guess I would go with 7C+ but it could be easier or harder who knows - I couldn't even do the moves on the near by The Unicorn which is 7B so maybe everything on the Witness block should be 7A+. Haven't got a name yet for either, if in fact they are new.

 

[Three Nine]

Mirf’s Roof

Ned climbed the right hand of the two mantel project noted in the script for this Churnet venue it’s called Journey to the Centre of the Mirf. It took him a fair few goes and he’s not shit at mantels, but it was boiling and it’s on very slopey slopers, so the grade could be anything. 7B+ would seem a reasonable random guess for the time being, but it could be anything from 7B to 7C+.

Was down here today. Due to not reading this post/guide properly I thought Journey to the... was the line marked in the guide as a project (couldn't remember the name at the time) and was going to be a 7B and the one to the right was some thing done ages ago, anyhow, I did the left hand mantle which felt about 7B but from reading this post again it looks like this may in fact be new? I then did Journey... which felt closer to the proposed 7B+ than 7C+. Also linked the Mirf's Roof start into Journey. Felt a fair bit harder than the stand version but not outrageous, it was very warm though (I was so hot I ended up climbing it in just my pink underpants, luckily only Klem was with me and he has shit eyesight so will be ok I think) Guess I would go with 7C+ but it could be easier or harder who knows - I couldn't even do the moves on the near by The Unicorn which is 7B so maybe everything on the Witness block should be 7A+. Haven't got a name yet for either, if in fact they are new.

Good to hear that about the Unicorn. The 6C+ stand took me nearly an hour, and I couldnt really touch the sit

 

[Bonjoy]

He's back on the scene and downgrading mantels already. Welcome back. The lh one was done by Ned a couple of months back, 7b was mentioned. Think I wrote this up in one of the later posts in my most recent update thread.

 

[Johnny Brown]

No mention of the flash of Witness BB? So modest. Six months skiing is clearly great stamina training for roofs.