The usual update. Haven’t done one for ages so this covers nearly a year I guess! Quality varies from stocking filler to proper top draw stuff. Have indicated the best things with a star and the real special stuff with two. I appreciate this is all quite information dense for this day and age - some photos might follow if/when I’ve added stuff to Peakbouldering.info.
Yorkshire Grit
Great Roova
Fifth Arete SS 6C – Sit start the arete right of Icicle
* Pearly Riser 7A – Climb the Spring Haze ramp as a rising hand traverse. Start with a hand on the left arete, finish up the right arete (keeping off blocks right of the corner)
Bull Nose SS 6B – Sit start to Bull Nose
Eavestone
* Sky Carbon 7B – A good variant/link-up for anyone struggling to turn the lip on Sky Diamond. Start as for SD, move right at the lip and finish as for Get a Grip
Roundhill
All Roads 6B – The left arete of Roman Wall
* Veni, Vidi, Vici 7A+ – The rounded project areteleft right of Gladiator mentioned in the guide.
Brimham, Bat Buttress
Low Earth Orbit 6C – Sit start, one hand on jug at base of crack, climb the prowy left arete of the roof. Fairly trivial but worth a mention as it would be the logical finish for the full right to left lip trav that needs doing, which would make a good long 8A-ish thing if back-wall eliminated
Peak Grit (and a bit of lime)
Seagull Tor
Jumbo SS 7A – Sit start to Jumbo. Bit of a painfull kneebar to start but great moves thereafter.
Heart Arete Low Start 7A – Worthwhile low extension to the classic 6C. A full SS just wouldn’t work so opted to start with whatever you can reach with your foot on the block under the roof
Burbage North
Sick of Ants 6B+ – On next block right of Rocketboy. Climb the hanging groove eliminating everything below the roof. Trivial but a good move
Stanage, Marble Wall Area
Green Greenie 7A – The right arete of the back wall behind you when facing Green Room Slap, from SS
Stanage, Plantation
Bronze Donkey 6C – L-R counterline crossing Brass Monkeys to finish up RHS of arete
Doll Tor
Dollfin 6C+ - SS lowball prow 50m NW of Gathering Storm. The low foot block is in
Joe 6C – Just up the hill from SG is a west facing slab. Sits start right of centre and heel and palm over the angle change.
Hen Cloud
*Jimmy Hen Tricks 6C+ - Below the main bit of the crag where Borstal Breakout etc. is are some decent boulders scatter down the slope. On the lowest of these which is encountered soon after leaving the track on the normal crag approach – climb the rounded right arete
*Mein Kraft 7A+ - The next block up the hill is a low slung bulge. SS on a rail at the far right end of the block and hug round leftward to finish up some juggy rugosites
Hit Rock Bottom 6C+ - Sit start left of the exit of Mein Kraft, slap the eponymous booty and top out leftward
*Easter Rising 6C – Up on the lower tier of the crag directly above the boulders and on the next significant rock right of Black Wall. Climb the highball left arete of the wall
Froggatt
Meullerosis 7A+ - A few metres uphill from Gibsonitis. Pokey powerfull sit start up overhanging rock, exiting left via juggy pocket to finish up slabby arete
Tippi Hedren Collider 5+ - Above the Ape Drape roof is a HVS called Debut Wall, climb the highball rib just to its left
*Vomer’s Odyssey 7A+ - The lower arete of the route Vomer from SS on its left side, exit leftward onto a big ledge. The standard direct start goes up the right side pulling on fairly high off some blocks (it’s about 6A+ but has a bad landing and no obvious finish point as a boulder prob)
Vome Alone 6A – Start on the face just left of the arete, climb direct to the ledges. This and the next problem are about E1 5c in old money
Vome Sweet Vome 6A – Left again, climb up with feet on ramps to gain thin hanging cracks and exit via the left arete. The original start to Vomer starts up this and goes right and is a decent 5
Full Moon Pie 6C – Directly above Hidden Buttress (where Hot Knives is), 50m or so left of Barrel Wall, is a block with a steep north face. SS and climb the centre of the face
* Squat Cobbler 7A+ - SS and climb the left arete of the face. Better and more involved than it looks
Wimberry
**Village Green SS 7A+ - Sit start to a neglected Dawes E3 6c. Adds some great steep slappy moves to a good route. Either jump/traverse off at the break, or much better finish up the top of the route which is E2 5b solo terrain
Laddow – South Buttress
** Animal Grace 6C - Central highball arete in quarry-like bay at far left end of crag (photo topo in OTM guide), climbed on LHS. E3 6b-ish in old money
** Pugnax 7A – Below the E4 arete The Price is Fright is a lower tier buttress. Climb the big steep prow starting in break under roof
Wyming Brook
Vampires and Stakeholder 6C+ - On the Backwater Barracuda buttress. The left side of the front has a steep prow split by a crack, climb this and the left side of the easier highball continuation arete
Demonsdale – Ashover - SK 35066228
A string of small natural limestone crags on the SW side of a valley South of Ashover. Approached from parking in Fallgate along public footpath. Good rock and a nice location, another decent minor venue in the Amber Valley. There is a fair bit of potential for decent short trad routes/solos on very good rock, on the same buttress as the bouldering and on bits either side (bring gardening tools for the tops).
Bumcrack Pigeon 6C – An unusual roof problem inside the squarecut cave. Start on the leftwall (looking in) climb lovely pockets and tufas in the roof, back and rightwards to finish on the backwall. Potential for some fun Tom’s Roof style eliminates.
* <no name yet> 6C+ - 3m left of the cave entrance. Climb steeply past slopers to a jug on the right
<no name yet> 6B – 2m left of the cave entrance. Climb the crack feature leftwards to the same jug as above
The Roaches – Ou Est Le Spit area
** Proper Gander 7C – Mega problem on the Ou Est Le Spit buttress itself. Sit start in the cave on the RHS on two big pockets, gain the scoop above via thin and fat pinches. A long move out of the scoop gains a hard slopey exit which may be the finish to the mystery old E3 - Wolfman of the KGB. Brilliant climbing on sweet holds demanding a good range of grit skills
* Wolfman Sitter 7A+ - Starting in the same cave, this time further right on a smaller pair of pockets. Trav leftwards through the start holds of PG to gain and climb the ramp feature (footholds on PG) into the finish of PG
Dirty Late Topout 6C – The very far left prow/arete of the Too Drunk Boulder, sit starting in a flake just left of wide crack
* Mixed Beast Feast 7A+ - Just up and left of Proper Gander (20m west) in a sort of open gully behind the crag is a hanging prow with a groove in it. Climb the feature from a low start on sloper and roof layaway – only the RH footblock is in for feet
* Atomic Dustbin 7A+ - This is among the boulders at the back of Piece of Mind. On the second to lowest back bit at the base of the slope. The rounded left arete of a boulder forming the uphill half of a mini gully. Climb the RHS of this from a SS on arete and vague crack. Ned did the FA on this beauty.
Roaches Skyline – Boulders in Woods
A couple of nice lower tier-esque boulders in the bottom west corner of the woods. Most quickly accessed via Nth Cloud, also not too far from 5 Clouds. Looked to have been climbed on before but don’t think the harder prob has been done, at least not in recent years. There are another five or so easier probs I haven’t recorded here.
* Quite Something Else 7A – On the RH of the two boulders,climb the central blunt rib with a reachy pull on with rib and chipped looking nick#
* To Flush a Retro Claim 6B – The left arete of the QSE boulder from sitting
Underneath the Larches 6A – On the lefthand boulder. Short arete to mantel, starting on break and arete crimp
Roaches – Nth Cloud
The Flakes RH 6B+ - Head right on slopers to a big flatty.
** The Real Thin 7A – Left side of the Crystal Voyager wall, starting just right of the corner. Quality highball on nice pockets and mini crimps. 7A+ extension possible starting as per CV.
Roaches – Bearstone Rock
This is the name given on the OS map to the westmost boulder at Roach End, obvious from the nearby parking. Worth a stop-off given it’s the shortest approach of any block on the crag.
* Ursa Major 7A+ - Climb the front right prow/arete from a sit start on a thin flake. A hard move off an unhelpful pinch.
The usual caveats about grades being first guesses applies, especially as some where climbed in less than top connies. Will try to fill in missing names as and when I think of some.
Yorkshire Grit
Great Roova
Fifth Arete SS 6C – Sit start the arete right of Icicle
* Pearly Riser 7A – Climb the Spring Haze ramp as a rising hand traverse. Start with a hand on the left arete, finish up the right arete (keeping off blocks right of the corner)
Bull Nose SS 6B – Sit start to Bull Nose
Eavestone
* Sky Carbon 7B – A good variant/link-up for anyone struggling to turn the lip on Sky Diamond. Start as for SD, move right at the lip and finish as for Get a Grip
Roundhill
All Roads 6B – The left arete of Roman Wall
* Veni, Vidi, Vici 7A+ – The rounded project arete
Brimham, Bat Buttress
Low Earth Orbit 6C – Sit start, one hand on jug at base of crack, climb the prowy left arete of the roof. Fairly trivial but worth a mention as it would be the logical finish for the full right to left lip trav that needs doing, which would make a good long 8A-ish thing if back-wall eliminated
Peak Grit (and a bit of lime)
Seagull Tor
Jumbo SS 7A – Sit start to Jumbo. Bit of a painfull kneebar to start but great moves thereafter.
Heart Arete Low Start 7A – Worthwhile low extension to the classic 6C. A full SS just wouldn’t work so opted to start with whatever you can reach with your foot on the block under the roof
Burbage North
Sick of Ants 6B+ – On next block right of Rocketboy. Climb the hanging groove eliminating everything below the roof. Trivial but a good move
Stanage, Marble Wall Area
Green Greenie 7A – The right arete of the back wall behind you when facing Green Room Slap, from SS
Stanage, Plantation
Bronze Donkey 6C – L-R counterline crossing Brass Monkeys to finish up RHS of arete
Doll Tor
Dollfin 6C+ - SS lowball prow 50m NW of Gathering Storm. The low foot block is in
Joe 6C – Just up the hill from SG is a west facing slab. Sits start right of centre and heel and palm over the angle change.
Hen Cloud
*Jimmy Hen Tricks 6C+ - Below the main bit of the crag where Borstal Breakout etc. is are some decent boulders scatter down the slope. On the lowest of these which is encountered soon after leaving the track on the normal crag approach – climb the rounded right arete
*Mein Kraft 7A+ - The next block up the hill is a low slung bulge. SS on a rail at the far right end of the block and hug round leftward to finish up some juggy rugosites
Hit Rock Bottom 6C+ - Sit start left of the exit of Mein Kraft, slap the eponymous booty and top out leftward
*Easter Rising 6C – Up on the lower tier of the crag directly above the boulders and on the next significant rock right of Black Wall. Climb the highball left arete of the wall
Froggatt
Meullerosis 7A+ - A few metres uphill from Gibsonitis. Pokey powerfull sit start up overhanging rock, exiting left via juggy pocket to finish up slabby arete
Tippi Hedren Collider 5+ - Above the Ape Drape roof is a HVS called Debut Wall, climb the highball rib just to its left
*Vomer’s Odyssey 7A+ - The lower arete of the route Vomer from SS on its left side, exit leftward onto a big ledge. The standard direct start goes up the right side pulling on fairly high off some blocks (it’s about 6A+ but has a bad landing and no obvious finish point as a boulder prob)
Vome Alone 6A – Start on the face just left of the arete, climb direct to the ledges. This and the next problem are about E1 5c in old money
Vome Sweet Vome 6A – Left again, climb up with feet on ramps to gain thin hanging cracks and exit via the left arete. The original start to Vomer starts up this and goes right and is a decent 5
Full Moon Pie 6C – Directly above Hidden Buttress (where Hot Knives is), 50m or so left of Barrel Wall, is a block with a steep north face. SS and climb the centre of the face
* Squat Cobbler 7A+ - SS and climb the left arete of the face. Better and more involved than it looks
Wimberry
**Village Green SS 7A+ - Sit start to a neglected Dawes E3 6c. Adds some great steep slappy moves to a good route. Either jump/traverse off at the break, or much better finish up the top of the route which is E2 5b solo terrain
Laddow – South Buttress
** Animal Grace 6C - Central highball arete in quarry-like bay at far left end of crag (photo topo in OTM guide), climbed on LHS. E3 6b-ish in old money
** Pugnax 7A – Below the E4 arete The Price is Fright is a lower tier buttress. Climb the big steep prow starting in break under roof
Wyming Brook
Vampires and Stakeholder 6C+ - On the Backwater Barracuda buttress. The left side of the front has a steep prow split by a crack, climb this and the left side of the easier highball continuation arete
Demonsdale – Ashover - SK 35066228
A string of small natural limestone crags on the SW side of a valley South of Ashover. Approached from parking in Fallgate along public footpath. Good rock and a nice location, another decent minor venue in the Amber Valley. There is a fair bit of potential for decent short trad routes/solos on very good rock, on the same buttress as the bouldering and on bits either side (bring gardening tools for the tops).
Bumcrack Pigeon 6C – An unusual roof problem inside the squarecut cave. Start on the leftwall (looking in) climb lovely pockets and tufas in the roof, back and rightwards to finish on the backwall. Potential for some fun Tom’s Roof style eliminates.
* <no name yet> 6C+ - 3m left of the cave entrance. Climb steeply past slopers to a jug on the right
<no name yet> 6B – 2m left of the cave entrance. Climb the crack feature leftwards to the same jug as above
The Roaches – Ou Est Le Spit area
** Proper Gander 7C – Mega problem on the Ou Est Le Spit buttress itself. Sit start in the cave on the RHS on two big pockets, gain the scoop above via thin and fat pinches. A long move out of the scoop gains a hard slopey exit which may be the finish to the mystery old E3 - Wolfman of the KGB. Brilliant climbing on sweet holds demanding a good range of grit skills
* Wolfman Sitter 7A+ - Starting in the same cave, this time further right on a smaller pair of pockets. Trav leftwards through the start holds of PG to gain and climb the ramp feature (footholds on PG) into the finish of PG
Dirty Late Topout 6C – The very far left prow/arete of the Too Drunk Boulder, sit starting in a flake just left of wide crack
* Mixed Beast Feast 7A+ - Just up and left of Proper Gander (20m west) in a sort of open gully behind the crag is a hanging prow with a groove in it. Climb the feature from a low start on sloper and roof layaway – only the RH footblock is in for feet
* Atomic Dustbin 7A+ - This is among the boulders at the back of Piece of Mind. On the second to lowest back bit at the base of the slope. The rounded left arete of a boulder forming the uphill half of a mini gully. Climb the RHS of this from a SS on arete and vague crack. Ned did the FA on this beauty.
Roaches Skyline – Boulders in Woods
A couple of nice lower tier-esque boulders in the bottom west corner of the woods. Most quickly accessed via Nth Cloud, also not too far from 5 Clouds. Looked to have been climbed on before but don’t think the harder prob has been done, at least not in recent years. There are another five or so easier probs I haven’t recorded here.
* Quite Something Else 7A – On the RH of the two boulders,climb the central blunt rib with a reachy pull on with rib and chipped looking nick#
* To Flush a Retro Claim 6B – The left arete of the QSE boulder from sitting
Underneath the Larches 6A – On the lefthand boulder. Short arete to mantel, starting on break and arete crimp
Roaches – Nth Cloud
The Flakes RH 6B+ - Head right on slopers to a big flatty.
** The Real Thin 7A – Left side of the Crystal Voyager wall, starting just right of the corner. Quality highball on nice pockets and mini crimps. 7A+ extension possible starting as per CV.
Roaches – Bearstone Rock
This is the name given on the OS map to the westmost boulder at Roach End, obvious from the nearby parking. Worth a stop-off given it’s the shortest approach of any block on the crag.
* Ursa Major 7A+ - Climb the front right prow/arete from a sit start on a thin flake. A hard move off an unhelpful pinch.
The usual caveats about grades being first guesses applies, especially as some where climbed in less than top connies. Will try to fill in missing names as and when I think of some.
