[andy_e]

One is enough!

[r-man]

Hey Climbingworks people, will you be getting a few of these 8a yearbooks that are being distributed to indoor walls?

Looks like the articles might be in google english, but there should be a few nice photos. Would be fun to look at, in between falling off circuits. Only costs the price of postage too -

http://www.8a.nu/shop/store.php?country=GLOBAL#3049

[mowern]

New air filtering system has made a massive difference.
Nice one!
 

[Bonjoy]

Anyone know what grade range the new purple circuit is?

[Somebody's Fool]

It's not very hard.  I only did half of them last night but I would say they were only about 6a-6b or summat.

[Percy B]

New Purples are Font 4 to 5+. More new stuff imminant in the next week or two. Comp wall will be reset at the end of next week (for the bouldering league on the 23rd).

[Fiend]

I only did half of them last night but I would say they were only about 6a-6b or summat.

New Purples are Font 4 to 5+.

Bwahaha, percy taking his abstract grading to whole new levels.

Thankfully I don't understand Font grades, particularly the lower grades, anyway, so the confusion kinda cancels out.

[Somebody's Fool]

Oh dear.  It seems I can't grade flour.   Please ignore my wayward grading in future.

[AndiT]

Get your brain in gear, before you put your mouth in motion fool!

By the way, grading Flour is actually a difficult a process, so don't worry about that...

[Somebody's Fool]

You might want to practice what you preach.  Last time I checked flour wasn't a proper noun. And there's an a too many in your ramblings.

In my defence it all feels the same under 7c

[r-man]

And there's an a too many in your ramblings.

That's not grammar, that's just his thick Italian accent...

a difficulta processa, so donna worra abouta dat...

_________

On the subject of grades, Percy sets good problems, but has similar difficulties with flour. The yellow 7a-7c circuit actually starts at around 6a. But hey, it's a good circuit.

In my defence it all feels the same under 7c

I'm the opposite. It all feels the same over 7c...

[Fiend]

Very dirty holds 

Went down for the first time for a while, after visiting The Foundry and Leeds a bit, and although the problems are still good and the atmosphere still great, it was noticable how filthy the holds are. The purples are fairly recent, right? And grubby. The yellows....yellow and black swirls more like. It's a pity this as it's always detrimental...

[Scouse D]

The grubbiness of holds really doesn't bother me atall. I don't fail on a problem indoors and say 'that's cos it was dirty'. It makes me have to pull harder and be more delicate on my feet so I'm happy.
I love rocking onto dirty black polished nubbins- reminds me of font.

[Fiend]

Hi Scouse. Do you find Parisella's Cave a pleasurable experience, by any chance?

[dave]

fuck, you can't keep scouse away from the cave. I'll be like "lets pop out to burbage this eveing" and the reply will invariably be "fuck that, i'm gonna drive 2.5 hours to session rock attrocity".

[Pantontino]

Fuck, you can't keep Scouse away from the cave. I'll be like "lets pop out and wander around some misty/dank/dripping wet grit crags this evening" and the reply will invariably be "fuck that, I'm gonna drive a mere 2 hours to session a completely dry benchmark classic like Rock Attrocity, or failing that, any one of a whole raft of stunning independent lines in the vicinity.".

You can't fault his logic, now can you?

[Stubbs]

I think it's time that Panto got 'Welsh Tourist Board' or something put next to his name!  I really can't comment though, I'm off to the Ormes this weekend (weather dependant).

As for the grimey holds Fiend, what do you expect them to do?  Stop people climbing on the problems? Change the whole problem set every other day?

[Percy B]

Purple holds went up last week and so the dirtyness is the result of one weeks use. Its not our fault if we're super busy. Invest in a brush and brush the holds is my advice. Use the same ethic for climbing inside as you would outside and its makes everybodies life easier! The green holds are filthy because they've been up for 2 months, and these have now been replaced (today as it happens). Every problem in the works has been replaced since we opened 11 weeks ago, so don't moan on about us not cleaning the bloody holds often enough - it just isn't the case! We have set approx. 450 new problems since December 3rd, and more go up every week. No other wall in the World provides new problems at the rate we do. We're doing our best to keep pace with the very high level of use we're currently getting and appreciate all positive feedback. Writing dirty holds in 2 inch letters is feedback but it sure ain't positive! gET A GRIP, fIEND!

[dave]

ditto that - the turnover rate of problem recently has been amazing, particularly on the comp wall. if you were to go just once a week (like i do) theres basically something new every visit. i can't knock that.

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

Its not our fault if we're super busy.

Err, yes it is Percy, you went and built such a good wall didn't you, you could have least slacked a bit and made it a bit shit. Tsk. 

[Fiend]

I'm not saying you guys suck or blaming or whatever, but the hold are still very dirty and it spoils the experience, simple as that.

Couple of things that could be done:

1. Notices posted regularly around the wall firmly asking all users to brush holds. I brush the holds all the bloody time, but I very rarely see others doing so, apart from the hardcore around the comp wall. More encouragement needed?

2. Have several suitable brushes (chained to pieces of wood emblazoned with "THe Climbing Works" or whatever) lying around for people to use.

[dave]

2. Have several suitable brushes (chained to pieces of wood emblazoned with "THe Climbing Works" or whatever) lying around for people to use.

have you not spotted the ones already there?

[Dr T]

being a soft southerner I've only been up once (bloody excellent by the way, puts the walls down here to shame) and people were brushing all the time on the circuits.  Fair play people were asking to borrow my brush but that's cool.   Don't think you have to big brother people into brushing just a few people setting an example and so the observation he/she brushed then he/she sent will be made and conditioning will follow.
It does amaze me to see people bitching about the works on this thread -honestly some of you don't know quite how good you've got it, if it wasn't for fact that the missus and I both have good jobs down here that we occasionally enjoy I'd move up for this place

[Idol eyes]

ohh, its all dirty...
get over it!

[fatdoc]

being a soft southerner I've only been up once (bloody excellent by the way, puts the walls down here to shame) and people were brushing all the time on the circuits.  Fair play people were asking to borrow my brush but that's cool.   Don't think you have to big brother people into brushing just a few people setting an example and so the observation he/she brushed then he/she sent will be made and conditioning will follow.
It does amaze me to see people bitching about the works on this thread -honestly some of you don't know quite how good you've got it, if it wasn't for fact that the missus and I both have good jobs down here that we occasionally enjoy I'd move up for this place

exactly...